LG OLEDs - how to enhance near black detail - Page 40 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1171 of 2596 Old 01-13-2017, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RoadLizard View Post
I like the right image better. Left one seems too purple for me. Not familiar with that content though so take that into account.
The left image looks too purple, yes and that's color 50.the left 1 color 42.Movie Rabid 1977.

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post #1172 of 2596 Old 01-13-2017, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by shield1280 View Post
Hmm just tested color 42 vs 50.what is best 42 vs 50 on my pic?I know wich one I prefer.
I've found that 48 is a better all rounding setting.

Content varies so much that some content will be overdone while other is undersaturated. For me, 48 was a good compromise.

...and while we're at it, try tint at G2.
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post #1173 of 2596 Old 01-13-2017, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by JimP View Post
I've found that 48 is a better all rounding setting.

Content varies so much that some content will be overdone while other is undersaturated. For me, 48 was a good compromise.

...and while we're at it, try tint at G2.
Thanks.Will do.

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post #1174 of 2596 Old 01-14-2017, 12:19 PM
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@ConnecTEDDD

Do you calibrate SDR to 30-35 FL?or higher.

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post #1175 of 2596 Old 01-14-2017, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by shield1280 View Post
@ConnecTEDDD

Do you calibrate SDR to 30-35 FL?or higher.
Hi, 150-170 cd/m2 (nits) for SDR to these OLED's, since the window size affects the peak output (if you measure with a full field you get about 50% lower output.)

Generally, it's better to talk about nits (cdm/2) since we are talking for digital displays, FtL was used for celluloid film projection.

LightSpace has removed entirely the Ftl. from the software, since nits (cd/m2) is the standard now.
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post #1176 of 2596 Old 01-14-2017, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, 150-170 cd/m2 (nits) for SDR to these OLED's, since the window size affects the peak output (if you measure with a full field you get about 50% lower output.)

Generally, it's better to talk about nits (cdm/2) since we are talking for digital displays, FtL was used for celluloid film projection.

LightSpace has removed entirely the Ftl. from the software, since nits (cd/m2) is the standard now.
Thanks.learn something new every day.
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post #1177 of 2596 Old 01-14-2017, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bberns22 View Post
TJN's review of the E6 was just posted on the Sound & Vision site. He points out a couple of the calibration challenges some have previously discussed. Its interesting to note his contrast and brightness settings are lower and higher (respectively) than many have specified. Not a surprise to me.
Interesting review particularly when it comes to his conclusion regarding color and tint controls. We all know the CMS is broken. I find that using Color 42 and Tint G3 makes for a much more natural image as he suggests. It's not perfect (never will be), but the default white balance on my panel is not where I wanted it in the ISF modes.
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post #1178 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 03:07 AM
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Cms

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Originally Posted by PlasmaPQ1 View Post
Interesting review particularly when it comes to his conclusion regarding color and tint controls. We all know the CMS is broken. I find that using Color 42 and Tint G3 makes for a much more natural image as he suggests. It's not perfect (never will be), but the default white balance on my panel is not where I wanted it in the ISF modes.
I have heard this claim made previously, what do you mean that the CMS is broken? I was able to calibrate the set perfectly to Rec.709 with a good meter and proper input drivers.

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post #1179 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

My recommendation would be to set the panel to correctly render PROPERLY authored content.

And leave it that way! So when you see the inevitable problems from poorly authored content it will be a stark reminder to you to never watch content from those people ever again.
--Bob
I agree, set it up properly using a high quality spectrophotometer and signal generator then forget it. Too many on the forum are chasing their tails trying to eyeball parameters that require standard reference sources and proper measurement tools.
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post #1180 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bberns22 View Post
I agree, set it up properly using a high quality spectrophotometer and signal generator then forget it. Too many on the forum are chasing their tails trying to eyeball parameters that require standard reference sources and proper measurement tools.
It's too bad that high end models didn't come with a fully calibrated picture mode from the factory. How nice would that be? You could of course choose to use it or not but at least it'd be there. I'd pay a small premium for that.

Or they could at least include a bunch of test patterns and calibration content built into the TV itself. You'd think they'd get that people buying the more expensive, larger models are more likely to be into the video hobby and would like such things.

Time to cater to the video hobbyist a little more here.

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post #1181 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bberns22 View Post
I have heard this claim made previously, what do you mean that the CMS is broken? I was able to calibrate the set perfectly to Rec.709 with a good meter and proper input drivers.
On my B6 CMS is broken too,and this was done with a klein-10a meter.if you can calibrate CMS without getting artifacts you have got then best panel from LG out there😀.

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post #1182 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bberns22 View Post
I have heard this claim made previously, what do you mean that the CMS is broken? I was able to calibrate the set perfectly to Rec.709 with a good meter and proper input drivers.
Aggressive use of the CMS controls produces artifacts.

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post #1183 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RoadLizard View Post
It's too bad that high end models didn't come with a fully calibrated picture mode from the factory. How nice would that be? You could of course choose to use it or not but at least it'd be there. I'd pay a small premium for that.

Or they could at least include a bunch of test patterns and calibration content built into the TV itself. You'd think they'd get that people buying the more expensive, larger models are more likely to be into the video hobby and would like such things.

Time to cater to the video hobbyist a little more here.
About a decade ago I believe there was a Panasonic Kuro model that had the ability to work directly with Colorfacts and semi automate the calibration process. Why not pay the small premium and get a professional to properly calibrate your set?
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post #1184 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 07:46 AM
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Cms

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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
Aggressive use of the CMS controls produces artifacts.

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The only artifacts I can see are to unrelated CMS: some darkening on the sides (low IRE / test patterns only), very minor color banding (could only see on photo's of the panel not when viewing) and small softening of line edges with sharpening set to 0 (again test patterns only). Every set I have ever worked on has had some issues - some worse than others. My B6 produces the best image of any display I have owned and measures as well or better (especially in contrast and low ire performance) too.

My set did not require "aggressive" (assuming large changes to luminance / tint / saturation). Largest change was a tint change to 9 for red, in order to bring it in line with REC. 709 (eliminated sunburned face effect). My meter was able to clearly measure this as the cause of the apparent oversaturation.
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post #1185 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bberns22 View Post
The only artifacts I can see are to unrelated CMS: some darkening on the sides (low IRE / test patterns only), very minor color banding (could only see on photo's of the panel not when viewing) and small softening of line edges with sharpening set to 0 (again test patterns only).

My set did not require "aggressive" (assuming large changes to luminance / tint / saturation). Largest change was a tint change to 9 for red, in order to bring it in line with REC. 709 (eliminated sunburned face effect). My meter was able to clearly measure this as the cause of the apparent oversaturation.
Only reporting what my calibrator showed me on test patterns its pretty obvious if you have the right pattern.He was able to use the tint control on the secondaries without ill effect.

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post #1186 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
Only reporting what my calibrator showed me on test patterns its pretty obvious if you have the right pattern.He was able to use the tint control on the secondaries without ill effect.

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Again not clear what you are referring to but if you mean that secondary points can be impacted by the adjustment of primary that is correct. You can see color shifting on the secondaries, if you have to move the primary points too far. I remember a Samsung DLP that gave me a bear of a time on this.
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post #1187 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bberns22 View Post
Again not clear what you are referring to but if you mean that secondary points can be impacted by the adjustment of primary that is correct. You can see color shifting on the secondaries, if you have to move the primary points too far. I remember a Samsung DLP that gave me a bear of a time on this.
I have a calibration background understand how CMS works. At any rate my calibrator chose to not use cms due to the creation of artifacts. I trust his judgement.

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post #1188 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bberns22 View Post
About a decade ago I believe there was a Panasonic Kuro model that had the ability to work directly with Colorfacts and semi automate the calibration process. Why not pay the small premium and get a professional to properly calibrate your set?
Ive considered it. Just dont know if I want spend the money. Im very, very pleased with the settings Ive dialed in right now. Hard to quantify how much "better" it can look. Then too - calibration gaurantees accuracy but that doesnt mean you'll neccessarily like it!

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post #1189 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 09:27 AM
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Unlike with my Sony 45 projector, I can't tell how Sharpness affects the picture on my C6

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Oh my gosh, I've never seen anything like the posts in this room. If Einstein had to figure out the complexity of the instructions I'm looking at here, he'd figure that the Theory of Relativity is Kindergarten fare.

For the record, please call me Wally. As in Wally Wal-Mart. That's the level of my intellectual capability. If I buy the c6 I just want a simple way to bring out the details in the darkest shadows of my new OLED TV without destroying the reason that I bought the thing. I do not want to enroll in a six-year college course to be able to adjust it.

Guys, make it simple.
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post #1191 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by R.Dexter View Post
Unlike with my Sony 45 projector, I can't tell how Sharpness affects the picture on my C6
Best sharpness settings are 0/0. On vertical sharpness is to see that 10 is too high, just use brightness pattern on avs rec709, in the bars you see halo.

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post #1192 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 10:26 AM
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Best sharpness settings are 0/0. On vertical sharpness is to see that 10 is too high, just use brightness pattern on avs rec709, in the bars you see halo.
But halos is what sharpness consists of...All it does is add white outlines to the image. My point was that on my projector I can clearly see white halos increase or decrease but on my Oled tv I cant
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[QUOTE=R.Dexter;49905593]But halos is what sharpness consists of...All it does is add white outlines to the image. My point was that on my projector I can clearly see white halos increase or decrease but on my Oled tv I cant[/QUOTE

Could be the difference in screen size maybe,easier to see on a big screen.

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[quote=shield1280;49905801]
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Dexter View Post
But halos is what sharpness consists of...All it does is add white outlines to the image. My point was that on my projector I can clearly see white halos increase or decrease but on my Oled tv I cant[/QUOTE

Could be the difference in screen size maybe,easier to see on a big screen.
I set sharpness from my seating position. I dont see any issues until I raise higher than +15. Now if I try and set it from a foot away, the number is lower.

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post #1195 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 11:22 AM
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[quote=wxman;49907001]
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Originally Posted by shield1280 View Post

I set sharpness from my seating position. I dont see any issues until I raise higher than +15. Now if I try and set it from a foot away, the number is lower.
With sharpness pattern, i can't see anything before over 60 on my screen, but on vertical sharpness, i can see haloing in the brightness pattern on 10.but I leave it a 0 anyway.

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post #1196 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 11:33 AM
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[quote=shield1280;49905801]
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Dexter View Post
But halos is what sharpness consists of...All it does is add white outlines to the image. My point was that on my projector I can clearly see white halos increase or decrease but on my Oled tv I cant[/QUOTE

Could be the difference in screen size maybe,easier to see on a big screen.
I will try again with my face real close to the screen. Maybe sharpness is not working on my C6
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post #1197 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 11:39 AM
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[quote=R.Dexter;49907385]
Quote:
Originally Posted by shield1280 View Post
I will try again with my face real close to the screen. Maybe sharpness is not working on my C6
Just set at 0 and be done with it.i can to really high with sharpness on pattern before i see anything,but on brightness pattern i see that 10 is to high.


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post #1198 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 11:56 AM
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[quote=shield1280;49907577]
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Dexter View Post
Just set at 0 and be done with it.i can to really high with sharpness on pattern before i see anything,but on brightness pattern i see that 10 is to high.


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It seems that in ISF I can go as high as sharpness 7 but no higher
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post #1199 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 11:58 AM
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[quote=R.Dexter;49908081]
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Originally Posted by shield1280 View Post
It seems that in ISF I can go as high as sharpness 7 but no higher
mystery solved hehe. I can go to 5 but leave it at 0.

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post #1200 of 2596 Old 01-15-2017, 12:29 PM
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[quote=shield1280;49908121]
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Originally Posted by R.Dexter View Post

mystery solved hehe. I can go to 5 but leave it at 0.
0 works great on blurays for me. But on lower quality streaming image is too dull and flat at 0 sharpness
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