LG 65C6P HDR Questions - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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LG 65C6P HDR Questions

Like many of you I've read hundreds of pages here and info starts to get mixed up and conflicted. I am wanting to purchase the 65 inch C6 today while it's on sale but wanted to get a couple of things squared away.

1) HDR Streaming - To get the full benefits of HDR and Dolby can I stream from the XBOX One S console itself or is it best to use the built in apps on the tv itself? Not sure if it matters but wanted to check.

2) HDR Gaming Lag - It sounds like LG released a firmware update that dropped the input lag to the mid 30s. Is that just for gaming in general or HDR gaming specifically? I already have a XBOX One S and will be picking up a PS4 Pro once I get the tv delivered and installed. I'm wanting to get this one for 3D and a price drop vs waiting for the 2017 models and a, I assume, higher price point. (Looking to get the 65 inch C6 for $2,500 today). Also do you have to do the manual firmware update with a flashdrive or can you do an update from the TV itself that includes the Game Mode?

3) I saw there will be a HLG update for 2016 models. Any idea on Technicolor coming to these 2016 models?

There's no such thing as future proof in technology and I know the next best thing is always around the corner so you can always talk yourself into waiting vs actually enjoying. Just wanting to confirm the best way to stream and confirm HDR gaming is acceptable on the C6.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TXStateBobcat View Post
Like many of you I've read hundreds of pages here and info starts to get mixed up and conflicted. I am wanting to purchase the 65 inch C6 today while it's on sale but wanted to get a couple of things squared away.

1) HDR Streaming - To get the full benefits of HDR and Dolby can I stream from the XBOX One S console itself or is it best to use the built in apps on the tv itself? Not sure if it matters but wanted to check.

2) HDR Gaming Lag - It sounds like LG released a firmware update that dropped the input lag to the mid 30s. Is that just for gaming in general or HDR gaming specifically? I already have a XBOX One S and will be picking up a PS4 Pro once I get the tv delivered and installed. I'm wanting to get this one for 3D and a price drop vs waiting for the 2017 models and a, I assume, higher price point. (Looking to get the 65 inch C6 for $2,500 today). Also do you have to do the manual firmware update with a flashdrive or can you do an update from the TV itself that includes the Game Mode?

3) I saw there will be a HLG update for 2016 models. Any idea on Technicolor coming to these 2016 models?

There's no such thing as future proof in technology and I know the next best thing is always around the corner so you can always talk yourself into waiting vs actually enjoying. Just wanting to confirm the best way to stream and confirm HDR gaming is acceptable on the C6.

Thanks!
where are you looking to get it for $2500? most prices jumped back up to around $3000 last night/this morning.
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post #3 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TXStateBobcat View Post
Like many of you I've read hundreds of pages here and info starts to get mixed up and conflicted. I am wanting to purchase the 65 inch C6 today while it's on sale but wanted to get a couple of things squared away.

1) HDR Streaming - To get the full benefits of HDR and Dolby can I stream from the XBOX One S console itself or is it best to use the built in apps on the tv itself? Not sure if it matters but wanted to check.

2) HDR Gaming Lag - It sounds like LG released a firmware update that dropped the input lag to the mid 30s. Is that just for gaming in general or HDR gaming specifically? I already have a XBOX One S and will be picking up a PS4 Pro once I get the tv delivered and installed. I'm wanting to get this one for 3D and a price drop vs waiting for the 2017 models and a, I assume, higher price point. (Looking to get the 65 inch C6 for $2,500 today). Also do you have to do the manual firmware update with a flashdrive or can you do an update from the TV itself that includes the Game Mode?

3) I saw there will be a HLG update for 2016 models. Any idea on Technicolor coming to these 2016 models?

There's no such thing as future proof in technology and I know the next best thing is always around the corner so you can always talk yourself into waiting vs actually enjoying. Just wanting to confirm the best way to stream and confirm HDR gaming is acceptable on the C6.

Thanks!
1. HDR Streaming through the built-in apps on the TV are great. I much prefer using the apps on the TV. I used to use the Netflix App on my Oppo BDP-103 exclusively, but since getting the TV, I use the TV's app exclusively. I also use Vudu to stream HDR content and it works well. Both the Netflix and Vudu App on the TV directly support Dolby Vision.

2. The lag for the mid-30ms is for both HDR and SDR content, including an HDR game mode. Originally the HDR lag was like 50 or higher. You can update the firmware via the internal wifi and software OR via USB, although they seem relatively slow to push it out to customers. So I've just updated via USB both times I've had to update without any trouble.

3. HLG is the only format confirmed to be upgraded. While I heard in another thread somewhere that the 2016 sets are technically "capable" of supporting all formats, it's just a matter of whether or not they will actually implement the Technicolor HDR format or not. I would say it's pretty unlikely, but we never really know.

Getting a 65C6P for $2500 is a great price. I would say, buy with confidence today if you are leaning towards that. There are benefits to the 2017 models, but the improvements are not significant enough for me to have even considered holding off. Plus 3D. Oh man, the 3D is great.
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post #4 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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1. HDR Streaming through the built-in apps on the TV are great. I much prefer using the apps on the TV. I used to use the Netflix App on my Oppo BDP-103 exclusively, but since getting the TV, I use the TV's app exclusively. I also use Vudu to stream HDR content and it works well. Both the Netflix and Vudu App on the TV directly support Dolby Vision.

2. The lag for the mid-30ms is for both HDR and SDR content, including an HDR game mode. Originally the HDR lag was like 50 or higher. You can update the firmware via the internal wifi and software OR via USB, although they seem relatively slow to push it out to customers. So I've just updated via USB both times I've had to update without any trouble.

3. HLG is the only format confirmed to be upgraded. While I heard in another thread somewhere that the 2016 sets are technically "capable" of supporting all formats, it's just a matter of whether or not they will actually implement the Technicolor HDR format or not. I would say it's pretty unlikely, but we never really know.

Getting a 65C6P for $2500 is a great price. I would say, buy with confidence today if you are leaning towards that. There are benefits to the 2017 models, but the improvements are not significant enough for me to have even considered holding off. Plus 3D. Oh man, the 3D is great.
Thank you for the detailed response! Seems like it'd be fun to use the TV apps with the motion controlled remote. I'm just so used to having my XBOX One S be my entertainment hub I wanted to see if those work with HDR and Dolby for streaming. Guess I can always load up apps on both to compare or go to the XBOX Forums and ask around for that.

Glad to hear it's mid-30ms for HDR gaming too. Was afraid "regular gaming" would be mid-30s and if you enabled HDR it'd jump up to over 50ms. I'm a big gamer so you just gave me a big exhale.

I probably would've waited for 2017 models if one of them had 3D. Granted I never use 3D now but just having the option sounds great. Especially if tv manufacturers stop making them. It'll be like holding onto a piece of expired tech.

For 3D can you only watch 3D movies in 3D or can you hit a button and convert whatever you're watching into 3D? Sorry for all the questions...you know that nervous/excited feeling about spending a good chunk of change on a "new toy." Any HDR or 3D blu rays you recommend that will be good to show off what the tv can do?
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post #5 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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where are you looking to get it for $2500? most prices jumped back up to around $3000 last night/this morning.
Cleveland AV aka Cleveland Plasma
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post #6 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 01:25 PM
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That's the same price he was offering through the Holidays (that I jumped on ).

Inventories must be replenished .

If you want 3D, the 65C6P at that price is a bargain like no other...
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post #7 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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That's the same price he was offering through the Holidays (that I jumped on ).

Inventories must be replenished .

If you want 3D, the 65C6P at that price is a bargain like no other...
Best Buy dropping to $2,999 seemed like a deal but so many people recommended ClevelandAV on here. So how was your experience getting your tv through him? Everything check out ok?
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post #8 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 01:39 PM
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Thank you for the detailed response! Seems like it'd be fun to use the TV apps with the motion controlled remote. I'm just so used to having my XBOX One S be my entertainment hub I wanted to see if those work with HDR and Dolby for streaming. Guess I can always load up apps on both to compare or go to the XBOX Forums and ask around for that.

Glad to hear it's mid-30ms for HDR gaming too. Was afraid "regular gaming" would be mid-30s and if you enabled HDR it'd jump up to over 50ms. I'm a big gamer so you just gave me a big exhale.

I probably would've waited for 2017 models if one of them had 3D. Granted I never use 3D now but just having the option sounds great. Especially if tv manufacturers stop making them. It'll be like holding onto a piece of expired tech.

For 3D can you only watch 3D movies in 3D or can you hit a button and convert whatever you're watching into 3D? Sorry for all the questions...you know that nervous/excited feeling about spending a good chunk of change on a "new toy." Any HDR or 3D blu rays you recommend that will be good to show off what the tv can do?
Yeah, definitely fiddle around with the Xbox One S and the internal TV apps to see which one suits your needs. I actually don't use the magic remote for the TV app, so the motion aspect isn't relevant for me. I use a Logitech Harmony remote, so I still have to click through the menus like normal. Still works great, though!

As for Gaming, I am a gamer too. I have a Wii-U that hardly gets played much, but I also have a PS4 Pro that I use for gaming most of the time. I'm really satisfied with the gaming response time, even including for FPS, specifically for Overwatch (which isn't in HDR).

For 3D, that was the biggest reason for me to jump on the 2016 model. I only have had mine for 3+ weeks now and it is absolutely fantastic. I've been going through my collection of 3D movies and watching them again, so pretty much every night I'm using the 3D capabilities of the set.

As for your question for 3D, yes it does upconversion from 2D sources, too. While I don't really use that aspect, it's nice to have that option, for sure. I've used it a couple times while playing games and it adds a bit of depth to them, which is nice.

For HDR content, I have been watching things on Netflix and Vudu. I don't have a UHD player just yet, still waiting for Oppo to work out their kinks more on their player. I have bought a few UHDs though, some of which also include UHD digital code redemptions, as well. So if you are looking for some good content, Sully looks razor sharp and really nice in Dolby Vision. Pacific Rim and Lucy look phenomenal in 4K/DV, as well.

For 3D movies, so far I've not gone through my collection of 3D, so this is based off what I've seen so far: I think I was most impressed with Avatar, Gravity, The Walk, How to Train Your Dragon 1 & 2. I've also been pretty impressed by Ant Man and Avengers Age of Ultron in 3D and pretty much any of the animated movies, like Finding Dory, Monster's Inc, etc.

I have still yet to watch all of my 3D movies, though, so that list of really impressive movies will increase, I'm sure.
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post #9 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 01:40 PM
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Chris at Cleveland AV is very, very reputable. I've not heard a complaint about him or his service yet!

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Best Buy dropping to $2,999 seemed like a deal but so many people recommended ClevelandAV on here. So how was your experience getting your tv through him? Everything check out ok?
Excellent.

The biggest difference between purchasing at BB versus CP is that BB will allow you to return the TV during your return window for any reason while with CP, you are covered for shipping damage, but any defects need to be handled through LG and if you just decide you don't want an OLED, too bad (sell it used ).

I had already returned 2 defective 65EF9500s through LG (after returning my first two through BB) and so was comfortable dealing with them and their willingness to recognize defects on these OLED TVs (excessive vignette and near-white non-uniformity).

I also knew without a shadow of a doubt that I wanted a 65C6P, so no chance of buyer's remorse.

So if you are sure what you want, I highly recommend CP, and if not, suggest you stick to BB...
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Thank you so much everyone for your feedback! I've already e-mailed Chris @ Cleveland to confirm things and hopefully make a purchase today.

I only thought of BB to see if the tv was worth the jump. Everyone says OLED is the best but is it twice the price as good as say something like the Samsung KS8000? For videophiles I'm sure but would it be twice as good to someone like me who doesn't even know what banding or vignetting is? I'll have to educate myself on that to know what to look for.

Any test videos or things I need to look out for in regards to the OLED? Do I need a "burn in" time before getting it calibrated? Worth it to get it calibrated?
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post #12 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 03:10 PM
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Practically all high-end sets are "worth" getting calibrated. If you have the funds available to do so, then absolutely, you ought to. This way you know your TV is outputting an image that is as close to the industry standard as possible and you are seeing as close to what the original was supposed to look like. It's generally advised that you put some hours on the television before getting it calibrated, that way the panel has time to settle in or break in. Usually advised to go about 200-300 hours before getting a set ISF calibrated.

I will be getting my set professionally calibrated in the near future by a guy who did a phenomenal job with my last display.

As far as difference between KS8000 and OLED, there is a huge difference. Mind you, you are asking in an OLED-specific forum, but there is absolutely not questions from the vast majority of us here that the OLED is worth double the price over the 8000 series.

Banding and Vignetting are negative attributes and faults in the panels. If you don't know what it is, you'll likely be happier not knowing so. Even then, if you do know, you may be better offer not actively looking for it, otherwise you can drive yourself crazy looking for faults. Truth is, all panels/displays have slight variances and issues, including LCD/LED, plasma, CRT, etc. so OLEDs will be no different. There will always be drawbacks to different technologies, but as far as OLED is concerned, many of us believe the good far outweigh the possible bad.

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post #13 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Practically all high-end sets are "worth" getting calibrated. If you have the funds available to do so, then absolutely, you ought to. This way you know your TV is outputting an image that is as close to the industry standard as possible and you are seeing as close to what the original was supposed to look like. It's generally advised that you put some hours on the television before getting it calibrated, that way the panel has time to settle in or break in. Usually advised to go about 200-300 hours before getting a set ISF calibrated.

I will be getting my set professionally calibrated in the near future by a guy who did a phenomenal job with my last display.

As far as difference between KS8000 and OLED, there is a huge difference. Mind you, you are asking in an OLED-specific forum, but there is absolutely not questions from the vast majority of us here that the OLED is worth double the price over the 8000 series.

Banding and Vignetting are negative attributes and faults in the panels. If you don't know what it is, you'll likely be happier not knowing so. Even then, if you do know, you may be better offer not actively looking for it, otherwise you can drive yourself crazy looking for faults. Truth is, all panels/displays have slight variances and issues, including LCD/LED, plasma, CRT, etc. so OLEDs will be no different. There will always be drawbacks to different technologies, but as far as OLED is concerned, many of us believe the good far outweigh the possible bad.
Forgive me Aetherole for bugging you this afternoon but you're being incredibly helpful...thank you! I'm in the Austin, TX area so not sure where to look for calibration people. Is it frowned upon to have Geek Squad do it for $200-$300? If not what should I expect to pay for a calibration? I'm very ignorant in that regard as well as far as what to look for, what to pay, and how to find these people.
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post #14 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 04:04 PM
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Forgive me Aetherole for bugging you this afternoon but you're being incredibly helpful...thank you! I'm in the Austin, TX area so not sure where to look for calibration people. Is it frowned upon to have Geek Squad do it for $200-$300? If not what should I expect to pay for a calibration? I'm very ignorant in that regard as well as far as what to look for, what to pay, and how to find these people.
Not a problem Bobcat! Yes, in general, I would avoid getting a calibration from Best Buy. Best Buy is a good one-stop-shop for a lot of things, but a professional ISF calibration is more than just reading numbers on a meter. They may have some semi-decent meters and equipment, but ISF calibration is, to some extent, an art as well. You have to have a well-trained eye. While numbers might look "good" dialed in, a trained eye will know exactly what to look for and variances, which a novice calibrator would overlook. Not to mention a lot of ISF calibrators have better equipment than those used by Best Buy/Geek Squad.

As far as prices, it can vary depending on the person doing the calibration. I think basic calibrations can start from $300-400 dollars and depending on what else you have them do, it will increase.

For my example, I want more than just the basic calibration; I want SDR calibrated, HDR calibrated/including Dolby Vision (which they can do in the factory settings), along with 3D SDR calibrated as well.

In order to find a calibrator, you can check in this thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...-here-127.html

There are calibrators across the nation and calibrators often time do tours to other parts of the nation, as well!
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Forgive me Aetherole for bugging you this afternoon but you're being incredibly helpful...thank you! I'm in the Austin, TX area so not sure where to look for calibration people. Is it frowned upon to have Geek Squad do it for $200-$300? If not what should I expect to pay for a calibration? I'm very ignorant in that regard as well as far as what to look for, what to pay, and how to find these people.
Yes, strongly frowned upon.

These OLEDs are actually quite good out-of-the-box. In terms of improving picture quality, here are recommendations in terms of increasing cost (and decreasing benefits :

-lots of helpful advice here on the Forum (i.e.: improving black levels with OLED thread). Copying recommended settings from outfits like CNET and Rtings.com also falls into this category.

-purchase a calibration disk and calibrate basic settings by eyeball. GCD and AVSHD709 are both free here on the Forum, and if you want to spend a few bucks on a professional disk, Ted's Lightspace Disk provides the best bang for the buck...

-pick up a basic meter for $150-250. You will be able to quickly calibrate white balance and gamma objectively rather than by eyeball and have runway to get into color calibration if you want to learn / make the effort (though color is pretty good out-of-the-box). This is a far better investment than geek squad calibration if you are a computer-savvy DIYer...

-pro calibration. This will probably run you close to $500 and most pro calibrators travel once they line up enough calibrations in one area. If you visit the calibrations Forum, there are threads on how to line up a calibrator.
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post #16 of 25 Old 01-17-2017, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Just finalized the purchase from Cleveland Plasma and already have a pm from someone about calibration!

I wanted to say thank you to those of you in here who quickly responded and educated me on so much. You made this purchase a lot less stressful! I asked "noob" questions and you didn't make me feel dumb for doing so but shared your experience and advice. Thank you again for your help today!
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post #17 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 12:49 AM
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Just finalized the purchase from Cleveland Plasma and already have a pm from someone about calibration!

I wanted to say thank you to those of you in here who quickly responded and educated me on so much. You made this purchase a lot less stressful! I asked "noob" questions and you didn't make me feel dumb for doing so but shared your experience and advice. Thank you again for your help today!
Our pleasure and good luck - hopefully you are about to be a very happy camper .

If you do decide to invest in a pro calibration, it's usually advised to put ~300 hours of use on the panel first.

P.s. We were all noobs once .
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post #18 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 07:33 AM
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HDR Question

In sticking with HDR questions... Are there ways to combat the clipping OLEDs do on HDR10 content. I have an E6 and am seriously thinking about picking up a C6. Can OLED Light, Contrast, 2 or 20 point settings, and gamma be adjusted so it won't clip?

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post #19 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 08:34 AM
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In sticking with HDR questions... Are there ways to combat the clipping OLEDs do on HDR10 content. I have an E6 and am seriously thinking about picking up a C6. Can OLED Light, Contrast, 2 or 20 point settings, and gamma be adjusted so it won't clip?
Hi, the LG will clip to any content it can't display (beyond it's peak output), it will not normalize to the display level; to able to see the whole content.

HDR is using ST.2084 which is an absolute curve, the display has to follow specific luminance levels per digital level, according to the Dolby's golden reference numbers, so you are following to up to the luminance levels the display is capable and you clip the higher from display's peak output levels the display can't follow.

In SDR we use Gamma curve as transfer function (where you can set it to 2.2/2.4/BT1886 or whatever value you like....having in calculation the display Black/Peak White level to generate each digital level luminance levels, but in HDR the PQ Curve transfer function has fixed numbers from 0-10.000nits, you follow or you clip, you can't modify or use other values.

So when you have a 650nits capable display you see about up to 70.5% of the signal, the other info will be clipped or roll-off (hard/soft), it's up to each display internal gamut/tone mapping programming.

Other examples:

75.2% is 1000 nits
90.2% is 4014 nits
97.7% is 8047 nits
100% is 10000 nits

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post #20 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 10:15 AM
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Hi, the LG will clip to any content it can't display (beyond it's peak output), it will not normalize to the display level; to able to see the whole content.

HDR is using ST.2084 which is an absolute curve, the display has to follow specific luminance levels per digital level, according to the Dolby's golden reference numbers, so you are following to up to the luminance levels the display is capable and you clip the higher from display's peak output levels the display can't follow.

In SDR we use Gamma curve as transfer function (where you can set it to 2.2/2.4/BT1886 or whatever value you like....having in calculation the display Black/Peak White level to generate each digital level luminance levels, but in HDR the PQ Curve transfer function has fixed numbers from 0-10.000nits, you follow or you clip, you can't modify or use other values.

So when you have a 650nits capable display you see about up to 70.5% of the signal, the other info will be clipped or roll-off (hard/soft), it's up to each display internal gamut/tone mapping programming.

Other examples:

75.2% is 1000 nits
90.2% is 4014 nits
97.7% is 8047 nits
100% is 10000 nits

Thanks for this. I was just curious because of the findings going on in the Sony Z9D thread. It seems with as much light output the Sony has, it's clipping at the 700 or 800 nits level. I could be reading the graphs wrong, but it's clipping none the less. Would be very uncomfortable buying that set only to know it too isn't displaying HDR it all it's glory...

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post #21 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 10:32 AM
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Thanks for this. I was just curious because of the findings going on in the Sony Z9D thread. It seems with as much light output the Sony has, it's clipping at the 700 or 800 nits level. I could be reading the graphs wrong, but it's clipping none the less. Would be very uncomfortable buying that set only to know it too isn't displaying HDR it all it's glory...
Hi, the ZD9 can output about 1800nits with a 10% Window, it will clip @ 81.5%.

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post #22 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 10:46 AM
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Hi, the ZD9 can output about 1800nits with a 10% Window, it will clip @ 81.5%.
Yeah that's just weird to me. I figured if a TV can output 1800 nits, it should be able to show all details in the 1000 nit range. I believe that's what most of the UHD blu's are mastered at and other 4000. I can definitely understand clipping with the 4000 nit UHD blu rays, but not the 1000 nit....

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post #23 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 12:20 PM
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Yeah that's just weird to me. I figured if a TV can output 1800 nits, it should be able to show all details in the 1000 nit range. I believe that's what most of the UHD blu's are mastered at and other 4000. I can definitely understand clipping with the 4000 nit UHD blu rays, but not the 1000 nit....
Grading a movie using a 4.000 monitor doesn't mean that the movie using the entire range up to 4.000nit.

For example Jupiter Ascending has been mastered @ 4.000 nits but it's maximum pixel peak output (MaxCLL) of the entire movie is 345 nits. (brightest sub-pixel).

But if the movie has content up to 4000nits, then it will be ideal to have a 4.000 monitor to view it like it's been mastered.

Each UHD title it's currently it's coming with static infoframe metadata; this contain info about Mastering Display Color Volume (Primaries/White Point/White Level/Black Level) and Content Metadata: Maximum Content Light Level (MaxCLL) / Maximum Frame-Average Light Level (MaxFALL)

Current UHD HDR movies has been mastered using DCI-P3 primaries and D65 white point, these details are available @ HDR Mastering Metadata - Mastering Display Color Volume data (colorspace is always REC2020 for UHD titles)

From the infoframe metadata I have from 84 UHD Movies:

43 titles mastered @ 4.000nits using a 42inch 1080p Dolby Pulsar Monitor (Direct LED)

31 titles mastered @ 1.000nits using a 30inch 4K Sony BVM-X300 (OLED)

10 titles mastered @ 1.100nits using a 30inch 4K Sony BVM-X300 (OLED)

6 from the movies mastered @ 4.000nits, they have MaxCLL (Maximum Content Light Level) over 8.000 nits..until 10.000nits, all the others have max peak level lower from 4.000nits.

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post #24 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Grading a movie using a 4.000 monitor doesn't mean that the movie using the entire range up to 4.000nit.

For example Jupiter Ascending has been mastered @ 4.000 nits but it's maximum pixel peak output (MaxCLL) of the entire movie is 345 nits. (brightest sub-pixel).

But if the movie has content up to 4000nits, then it will be ideal to have a 4.000 monitor to view it like it's been mastered.

Each UHD title it's currently it's coming with static infoframe metadata; this contain info about Mastering Display Color Volume (Primaries/White Point/White Level/Black Level) and Content Metadata: Maximum Content Light Level (MaxCLL) / Maximum Frame-Average Light Level (MaxFALL)

Current UHD HDR movies has been mastered using DCI-P3 primaries and D65 white point, these details are available @ HDR Mastering Metadata - Mastering Display Color Volume data (colorspace is always REC2020 for UHD titles)

From the infoframe metadata I have from 84 UHD Movies:

43 titles mastered @ 4.000nits using a 42inch 1080p Dolby Pulsar Monitor (Direct LED)

31 titles mastered @ 1.000nits using a 32inch 4K Sony BVM-X300 (OLED)

10 titles mastered @ 1.100nits using a 32inch 4K Sony BVM-X300 (OLED)

6 from the movies mastered @ 4.000nits, they have MaxCLL (Maximum Content Light Level) over 8.000 nits..until 10.000nits, all the others have max peak level lower from 4.000nits.
Good stuff. I appreciate the schooling. So in your opinion, what's the best consumer display for HDR right now?

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post #25 of 25 Old 01-18-2017, 12:49 PM
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Good stuff. I appreciate the schooling. So in your opinion, what's the best consumer display for HDR right now?
LG 65E6 or Sony 65ZD9 are the 2 best choices, but I believe the upcoming Panasonic OLED with internal 3D LUT capability (if it work for HDR also) it will be the winner, from color fidelity of HDR playback side of view.
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