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post #1 of 111 Old 01-31-2017, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Settings Options for 2016 LG OLED (B6+)

Notice This: If you have questions, don't ask here. This thread will be frequented by those of us who don't own or are new owners. We know little or nothing. Ask your questions in: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post50413537

I offer this "as is" in the same way I found it. I searched the 2016 B6-C6 Owners thread in advance of my B6 delivery for information on settings that might be helpful and copy/pasted info into a file. That file is below. Each part is a unique reference from some post in that thread. I have not tested nor do I explicitly recommend any specific item or setting. The only organization is what I thought might be helpful to me when I receive my B6 -- scheduled for 2/2/16.

The first part immediately below lists several YouTube videos, then the rtings links and then some Consumer Reports suggestions. After that are various posts that are not particularly related. Pick and choose what you will. Note that any references to "I" are not from me -- they are the original posters.

My thanks to all those who tried to be helpful on the B6-C6 Owners thread and provide settings info to guide others. I hope this may be helpful to all of us new owners (or even longer time owners). Rich

Edit: If anyone has additional suggestions, please do add a post to this thread. In quickly reviewing this content, I noted that I did attribute one post to @fafrd . I much value his many contributions and wanted to be sure I noticed this one.

Edit 2/1/16: If additional settings are added, I'll copy them to the end of this first post to keep it all in one location. Over time, as I get familiar with the B6, I may edit or move items for more logical organization and to remove dups.

Of course, within a few months, no one will care as the 2017s come out.

----------------
Build date: Label on back or decoded from the serial number. First 3 digits of serial number are year/month in ymm format.

Display on screen the source resolution:
@checker9 : Assuming it is the same as the B6, engage the remote control pointer, point it to the top left corner of the screen and click. That should bring up a banner showing your currently selected source input. Click on that after it shows. That should cause basic information on your content to show up under that banner.

-------------
Helpfully posted by owners on 2/1/16:

@jtrosky
If you want the firmware to be updated quickly, you have to use a USB. Otherwise, it takes forever for the TV to "see" the update automatically. Not sure how it works, but they must push it out to only a certain number of TV's at a time or something... You can go weeks before the TV sees the update.

Much easier to just put it on a USB thumb drive and install it manually most of the time... LG posts the firmware updates on the Support section of their website.

If you go to the LG website, select your TV model under the "TV/Audio/Video" option at the top of the screen, click on the "Support" section, click on "Manuals and Downloads" and then scroll down to the "Software, Firmware and Drives" section, you'll see that they list the models it's for (and since you selected your TV in the beginning, it will be the correct file for that model automatically).

@iserum
The update file is 900 MB so easy to do it on USB, make sure you make a directory as mentioned in instructions and plug in USB, follow the instructions on screen, will take 5 minutes to update. Do not interrupt the process. When finished restart tv.

--------------


LG B6 Settings

----------------



http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/b6/settings

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/e6/settings

-------------------
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/l...es-in-every-tv

and

From the CR review, not exactly what I use for the B6, but maybe start from here, and note the ISF defaults before you try these changes.

Click on the gear button on the bottom right of the remote. A bunch of options should pop up on the right side of the screen. The first option listed should be the picture mode the TV is in. Make sure it is in Cinema or one of the ISF modes to start. If you want to change any of the picture settings, choose the last option on the bottom "all settings" I believe. There you can select the current mode and tweak to your liking.

PICTURE SETTINGS.
Picture Mode: Expert (Dark Room). Contrast
(Picture): 95. Brightness: 52. Gamma: BT.1886. Color: 46. Tint: 0.
Sharpness: H = 0, V = 0. Color Temperature: Warm2. Backlight:
62. TruMotion blur reduction: NA. Color Gamut = Normal, Black
Level = Low, Real Cinema = On, TruMotion = User (De-Judder =
0, De-Blur = 10).

----------------
I just got a B6. How does one know if it is receiving and displaying HDR? I have UHD blu-ray player with HDR discs.

'HDR' will pop up in top right corner.
Note: You must enable deep color for each HDMI input expected to see HDR content. Go to 'Settings/General/HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color' and turn on deep color for HDR source input to your B6


---------------
Personally, I went with the Rtings.com settings: rtings website path /tv/reviews/lg/b6/settings (haha I can't post URLs yet)

OLED Light: 65
Contrast: 100 (this actually makes sense for OLED if you think about it)
Brightness: 50
Color: 68
Color Temperature: Warm2
Color Gamut: Normal
Gamma: 1.9 (I changed to this, from their 2.2)

This was an absolute lifesaver for me, highly recommended. I always turn all processing and "sharpness" off, looks like Rtings does too. I tried their color settings and it was close but I had to tweak it for my panel, which was a pain but Jesus Christ was it worth it.

------------------------
These are my settings used for Expert Dark Room, but I also use this for Expert Bright Room with some slight tweaks in brightness:

OLED Light: 65
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50 (49 for bright room)
Colour: 52
Colour Temperature: Medium
Colour Gamut: Normal for 2D, Enhanced for 3D
Gamma: BT.1886 (2.4 for Bright Room)
Edge Enhance: off
Noise reduction: off (although I have set it to low for 2D blu-rays)
Mpeg noise reduction: off

White Balance 20 Point: (settings from the video)
5 Luminance: -8
10 Luminance: -6
15 Luminance: -7
20 Luminance: -6
25 Luminance: -7
30 Luminance: -7
35 Luminance: -6
40 Luminance: -3
45 Luminance: -4
50 Luminance: +1
55 Luminance: +4
60 onwards no changes

White Balance 2 Point: (settings from the video)
High
Red: 9
Green: 5
Blue: 2

Low
Red: 0
Green: -16
Blue: 0

Only takes a few minutes to tweak, and hopefully it'll resolve all your problems like it did for me.

----------------
Credit goes to an editor at Sound & Vision.

Start with Expert Dark Room (use 2.2 gamma if preferred). Set your Color at 42 and Tint G3. The contrast patterns do not work on these TVs. Anything above 81 clips Magenta on my panel.
Turn off all other enhancements, use default white balance, and see if brightness 51 works for you. There is still some minor black crush but the image looks way more natural for SDR content.

-----------------
Hi, in HDR mode, about Normal vs. Wide, both will provide the same (native primaries) gamut coverage, the largest the TV can display, but the problem is that in Wide it's boosting the lower saturation levels (make them more saturated), so for HDR the Normal is the only correct settings.

For SDR. Wide Gamut option is only helpful when you use the LG in post production for SDR @ ISF mode to calibrate for DCI-P3 or use eeColor for 3D LUT with 65-Point Cube (or other processors with smaller cube size) bypassing LG's poor CMS controls to perform 3D LUT display profiling.

In SDR mode, Normal will provide a slight oversaturated REC.709 coverage while Wide will provide the largest possible (native) so it will oversaturate a lot the colors if you watching HD/Full HD content (blu-ray/sat/cable etc..) which use REC.709. In SDR mode the Normal is the correct setting also.

---------
I have B6 65, Dish (Hopper 2) with similar internet speed and picture is very good (better than my 1080p Vizio M series by a lot). I use ISF Bright, OLED light 70, contrast 85, sharpness 0 or 5 depending and Truemotion either off or user at 2/6. When I fist got the TV, I was not impressed by Dish image with ISF modes, I tried HDR Effect and liked that for a while then after a couple weeks, I went back to the ISF modes and it was fantastic. It may be (probably is) placebo but maybe give it time and see.

------------------
For dark/dim room viewing, try Expert/ISF Dark Room picture mode with brightness at 52, OLED light at 50, contrast at 87, sharpness at 0 (for both H and V), RealCinema on and TruMotion set to User with de-judder at 2 and de-blur at 9. Leave everything else at default. If the picture looks a bit dim and you're seeing shadow detail getting crushed, try changing gamma from BT.1886 to 2.2.

----------
Disney WOW disc is good.

Then just use your calibration disk to set contrast, brightness, and color (there is a blue filter setting in the advanced picture settings that you can use to adjust your color setting...under Cinema mode, mine needed that adjustment). Some people are sensitive to judder issues, so you might want to experiment with TruMotion. A good place to start is the User setting with dejudder at 0 and deblur at 10. You may be able to bump up dejudder to 1 or 2 before you start noticing artifacts and soap opera effect. There are a lot of posts here on those TruMotion user settings...it's kind of a personal choice on what looks best to you.

That'll get you a good baseline. If you want more than that, it's kind of recommended to get a professional calibration. My take on that is it's overkill, but that's another personal choice.

EDIT: Oh, and another note, which wasn't apparent to me at the start...you'll have to set your picture settings on all inputs, of course. But you also have to set them per viewing mode (e.g., if you're watching HDR content, you'll have to save your picture settings there. Same for DolbyVision. It gets a little old, but once you have them all saved, then you're done (unless you later make changes...).

-----------
fafrd:
There is enough panel-to-panel variation I'm not sure why you put so much effort into questioning other owner's settings. Focusing on the proper test patterns and test criteria is more productive.

Classic black pluge patterns do not work with these OLEDs to set Brightness (at least for true dark-room viewing). Just the small bright text/numbers and the brighter flashing bars refuce your eyes sensitivity to luminance so that what appears to be a 'black' video level 16 actually ends up being brighter-than-black (glowing blacks) once you throw up a black field pattern with no text and allow you eyes time to adjust.

The 0.5% (video level 17) near-black window on Ted's Lightspace Disk is my recommended pattern for setting Brightness with your eyeballs. You should be able to find a Brightness setting where the 0.5% window is just barely visible with your nose practically touching the screen while the surrounding 0% field (video level 16) is truly black. If Brightness is set too low, 0.5% will be invisible...

A 0% field can also be used, though it provides no way to know when Brightness is too low.

With either an 0.5% window or a 0% field, you need to allow your eyes time to adjust to the darkness before testing to see whether you can see any luminance above true black.

---------------------
"Standard" picture mode will not allow you to make the adjustments needed. Use "ISF Dark Room". You might want to try starting with the settings in my post (#3631) above. These do not include color balance adjustment, which will be different for every set, but they will get you close.

3631:
Starting with Tom Norton's settings for Expert Dark Room, and using the AVS HD Calibration Disc I then adjusted to:
OLED light 40 (anything above was over bright in a dark room)
Contrast 80
Brightness 59 (lower settings crushed blacks, while 59 still gave me a true black)
Gamma 2.2 (I know 2.2 is somewhat "old fashioned", but BT. 1886 was losing too much shadow detail)
All other picture processing set to "off" or as low as possible.

With a good video signal as input, the picture is indeed excellent; as good as anything I have seen. Immersive and very enjoyable.

-----------
i think without messing with the settings, the recommended ones were hdr standard and dolby vision dark

---------------
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/e6/settings

These are the best settings so far I have found. Copy all the white balance and color management settings. Then run the Disney WOW disc for your main adjustments.

I am getting ISF Dark
Oled Light 60
Brightness 53
Contrast 97
H sharpness 15
V Sharpness 15
Color 60
Tint R5

In expert control all off except I leave
Super Resolution Low
Edge Enhancement On
Color Gamut Normal
Gamma BT.1886
(same as Cinema Mode)

Picture Options all off except
Trumotion User (default)
Dejudder 0
Deblur 10
Even with a setting of 1 for dejudder there is noticeable SOE especially in 3D!

For Color Management I found posterization in the settings (DVE HD Basics 1080p demonstration model w/ chip chart on grainy film stock, Austin Powers 2 TSWSM chap. 10 = look at the faces)

For red I changed
Saturation 8 > 0
Tint 21 > 11
Luminance -1 > -1

For Blue I found posterization in the neon lights in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom Chap. 2
Saturation 10 > 0
Tint 20 > 10
Luminance 0 > 0

I haven't found any in the Green yet but I changed these settings in line with the other 2.
Saturation 10 > 0
Tint 10 > 5
Luminance 0 > 0

-------------
Can you tell me what settings you changed specifically to negate ABL? I'm loving this set now that I've messed with the white balance 2 point to my liking. It looks magnificent! My only gripe is this tv shows all the flaws of lesser content. I watched the Martian last night on regular blu and what a treat!

Max out oled light and control light output with contrast control. I am at 100 oled light 60 contrast for a moderately lit room.

-------------------

First post of https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...ck-detail.html . Then go on reading.

But before all that, make sure the black level is set correctly because out of the box LG is not consistent. Should be configured as Low for Limited range inputs, or High for Full Range RGB inputs.

--------------

You might try the Display Calibration sub forum. There is a sticky thread there for calibrators.

---------------

From this point on are contributions that were added in later posts to this thread:

--------------
I should add using PC Mode for any Apple TV, Chromecast, PC, cable box will give you the best natural motion on the B6.

---------------------
Most people probably won’t like this (because it will be too bright for them), but here are my current isf Expert (Dark) settings for my 55B6. I watch mostly 1080i cable content. These were all eyeballed so YMMV. I initially changed CMS settings, but after reading various posts about issues with it, and seeing color different from program to program (at least perceived), I abandoned that and just changed the color in the Method - 2pt. Color seems pretty consistent now and good skin tones which is my eyeball barometer.

Standard settings:
OLED Light: 80
Contrast: 86
Brightness: 50
H Sharpness: 8
V Sharpness: 8
Color: 50
Tint: 0

Other changes:
Edge Enhancement: Off
Gamma: 2.2
Color Temp: Warm1
Method - 2pt
Low:
Red: 1
Green: -1
Blue: -3
High:
Red: -2
Green: -3
Blue: -3
Method - 20pt
IRE = 5:
Adj Luminance: 5
IRE = 10:
Adj Luminance: 1
TruMotion: User
Dejudder: 2
Deblur: 7

--------------
Dumb question but how do you get into pc mode (c6) sw 04.30.95

Go to "Inputs" (the button with the different cable plug ends on the middle/bottom of the remote) and select "Edit Icon" on the right hand side for your current input. Then scroll down to find "PC". You'll have to reenter any picture settings you have for all picture modes.

---------------
Question please: should I use the same settings for HDR content (some like gama I cannot even change) or leave them at default (for example OLED light defaults to 100)?
For HDR sources do you leave the TV at default or do you adjust those settings too? If you adjust them also, what settings, on the B6, do you recommend for HDR10 discs?

I have the E6 but for HDR I use HDR standard and then dial down the OLED light and contrast a little bit. OLED light 90 and contrast at like 85-88 works for me. I turn OFF all of the other enhancements. I set brightness at 51-52. Works for most content for me. You'll have to experiment a bit!

--------------
Display on screen the source resolution:
@checker9 : Assuming it is the same as the B6, engage the remote control pointer, point it to the top left corner of the screen and click. That should bring up a banner showing your currently selected source input. Click on that after it shows. That should cause basic information on your content to show up under that banner.

--------------
Taking the easy way out , see this post later in this thread for some very specific settings:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post50509721

---------------

From a recent post by @Elton Noway : (huh! I just noticed that your last name is not "Norway"... )

If you're in a hurry ...
___________________
ISF Expert Dark Room


Expert Controls: All settings to OFF
Disable TruMotion
Diable Cinema

Picture Options:
Noise Reduction: Off
Mpeg NR: Off
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On
Motion Eye Care: Off
TruMotion: User - De-Judder:0, De-Blur: 10

-------------------
@NashGuy : If you don't have other calibration disks/patterns to use and simply want to set using actual content you'll be looking at a lot, try setting brightness using the black letterbox bars that appear at the top and bottom of widescreen HD/UHD content. Those bars aren't always set to absolute reference black but they usually are (just depends on the movie/show). Get up next to the screen in a dark room and look only at the black bar. (You can use an empty toilet paper roll pressed gently against the screen and your open eye to isolate your view.) Start with brightness at 49 and then click up until you reach a level where your eye sees light. Depending on your set, this should be anywhere from 51 to 53. If you want to preserve absolute blacks in those letterbox bars (which honestly is the most common place you see true black), then you'll want to reduce brightness to one level below where you could see any light.

In my efforts to enhance shadow detail while still preserving absolute blacks, I have my B6 set to gamma 2.2, brightness 51, OLED light 65, with IRE 5 at +7.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS

Last edited by richlife; 02-12-2017 at 06:17 PM.
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post #2 of 111 Old 01-31-2017, 11:33 PM
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Thanks for all your research on this and posting your findings. I plan on getting an 65C6.
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post #3 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 02:39 AM
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Excellent compilation. Lots of effort here.
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post #4 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 09:57 AM
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Most people probably won’t like this (because it will be too bright for them), but here are my current isf Expert (Dark) settings for my 55B6. I watch mostly 1080i cable content. These were all eyeballed so YMMV. I initially changed CMS settings, but after reading various posts about issues with it, and seeing color different from program to program (at least perceived), I abandoned that and just changed the color in the Method - 2pt. Color seems pretty consistent now and good skin tones which is my eyeball barometer.

Standard settings:
OLED Light: 80
Contrast: 86
Brightness: 50
H Sharpness: 8
V Sharpness: 8
Color: 50
Tint: 0

Other changes:
Edge Enhancement: Off
Gamma: 2.2
Color Temp: Warm1
Method - 2pt
Low:
Red: 1
Green: -1
Blue: -3
High:
Red: -2
Green: -3
Blue: -3
Method - 20pt
IRE = 5:
Adj Luminance: 5
IRE = 10:
Adj Luminance: 1
TruMotion: User
Dejudder: 2
Deblur: 7
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post #5 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Since I'm the thread starter and no one else really cares about my angst while "tracking" the new B6 while it strives for delivery tomorrow, I just thought I would post this here. Below is what the carrier tracking shows for today -- all this in NC. Morrisville to Durham to Morrisville? I'm focusing on the last two words: "final delivery".

Latest update: Wednesday, Feb 1

1:34 PM Transferred to final large item carrier for final delivery
Morrisville, NC
Carrier: XPO, Tracking #: AIND5X0020591
1:10 PM Package arrived at a carrier facility
Durham, NC, US
11:20 AM Package has left the carrier facility
Morrisville, NC
9:04 AM Package arrived at a carrier facility
Morrisville, NC
5:46 AM Package has left the carrier facility
Charlotte, NC

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #6 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 11:26 AM
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I'm using the settings from the AVForum Youtube video on my 55 C6, but I noticed some weird with the picture. Hard to explain, so here is a crappy pic and video from my phone.

http://imgur.com/JpY7D8q
http://streamable.com/137pd

Anyone know what would cause this? I've seen it multiple times either in backgrounds like above, or more noticeably on peoples skin/faces.

I don't know if it's a color/picture setting, or something with the source.
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post #7 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlife View Post
Since I'm the thread starter and no one else really cares about my angst while "tracking" the new B6 while it strives for delivery tomorrow, I just thought I would post this here. Below is what the carrier tracking shows for today -- all this in NC. Morrisville to Durham to Morrisville? I'm focusing on the last two words: "final delivery".

Latest update: Wednesday, Feb 1

1:34 PM Transferred to final large item carrier for final delivery
Morrisville, NC
Carrier: XPO, Tracking #: AIND5X0020591
1:10 PM Package arrived at a carrier facility
Durham, NC, US
11:20 AM Package has left the carrier facility
Morrisville, NC
9:04 AM Package arrived at a carrier facility
Morrisville, NC
5:46 AM Package has left the carrier facility
Charlotte, NC
Hmmm - thats odd. Hopefully just a typo or something. And.. we do CARE about you getting your TV!
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I should add using PC Mode for any Apple TV, Chromecast, PC, cable box will give you the best natural motion on the B6.
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post #9 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadLizard View Post
Hmmm - thats odd. Hopefully just a typo or something. And.. we do CARE about you getting your TV!
I certainly have to appreciate that, and believe me, I'll take any good vibes at this point.

I got a call late this afternoon that it will be delivered between 3-6pm tomorrow. I'd prefer 9-12am, but I'm certainly not complaining.
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Are you going to break in the TV at all when you get it tomorrow? Do you have an idea of what you are going to look for when you first get it to make sure nothing is wrong with it? I am getting th 65b6 next week.
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For HDR sources do you leave the TV at default or do you adjust those settings too? If you adjust them also, what settings, on the B6, do you recommend for HDR10 discs?
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post #12 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quebecker View Post
I should add using PC Mode for any Apple TV, Chromecast, PC, cable box will give you the best natural motion on the B6.
Dumb question but how do you get into pc mode (c6) sw 04.30.95
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post #13 of 111 Old 02-01-2017, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by miket5567 View Post
Are you going to break in the TV at all when you get it tomorrow? Do you have an idea of what you are going to look for when you first get it to make sure nothing is wrong with it? I am getting th 65b6 next week.
I'm just planning to run it non-stop on any programming I choose. Break in is just like a car -- the more you use it the better you can hope for. Just like a car, don't push it to extremes for a while -- like maybe 6 months. KIDDING! by extremes I mean forcing setting way more than, for example, the rtings recommendations. Got a disc that just looks dark are whatever -- don't push it and play something else.

What can I say? I have never owned one...

And given that last comment, @checker9 and @Mike__P , you need to ask your questions in the B6/C6 Owners thread. Ask someone who has been using these tvs. But thanks, I'll add that advice to the OP.
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post #14 of 111 Old 02-02-2017, 05:44 AM
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Dumb question but how do you get into pc mode (c6) sw 04.30.95
Go to "Inputs" (the button with the different cable plug ends on the middle/bottom of the remote) and select "Edit Icon" on the right hand side for your current input. Then scroll down to find "PC". You'll have to reenter any picture settings you have for all picture modes.
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I am happy with the Dark Expert settings (mainly using Rtings) so far.

Question please: should I use the same settings for HDR content (some like gama I cannot even change) or leave them at default (for example OLED light defaults to 100)?
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Go to "Inputs" (the button with the different cable plug ends on the middle/bottom of the remote) and select "Edit Icon" on the right hand side for your current input. Then scroll down to find "PC". You'll have to reenter any picture settings you have for all picture modes.
Thanks. Added to the Contributions section.

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Another dumb question. I see different settings for dark room, bright room, HDR. Are people changing every time depending on what they are watching . Say from bright room to dark room at night or switching to HDR settings when watching something in HDR?
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Originally Posted by miket5567 View Post
Another dumb question. I see different settings for dark room, bright room, HDR. Are people changing every time depending on what they are watching . Say from bright room to dark room at night or switching to HDR settings when watching something in HDR?
Not a dumb question at all. Generally yes, people are manually changing between the two settings.

Me personally, a calibrated ISF Dark is suitable for both "lights-off" watching and daytime watching.

HDR setting should automatically come up when you are feeding the TV with an HDR source. When it shows up, the HDR (or Dolby Vision) icon should show up in the top right briefly.

HDR's preferred setting mode is "HDR Standard"
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Thanks for stating clearly what I was sort of expecting, @Aetherhole . With little time after my delivery today, I really only attempted to see what the Settings layout was and test a lot of "tweaks" based only on watching the YouTube videos at the top of this OP. Then, fairly satsified, we sat down to continue watching the last three episodes of Game of Thrones. We were absolutely blown away! However, all out viewing was in a lamp-lit room. Tomorrow's forecast calls for rain, but Sat. is supposed to be a bright day, so I'll get a good chance to refine things (by recommendations and by eye) before the Super Bowl.

I appreciate your observaations.

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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
Any problems putting brightness to 59?

I just went through all the brightness and contrast tools on Disney WOW. With OLED light at 65, I had to run Contrast at 100 and Brightness at 59 to see all the visible white and black and not see darker than black and brighter than white test patterns.

Any drawback to having it at 59?
59 for brightness seems very high. But, all panels are slightly different. Did you do the disneybsetup in a dark room with dark adapted eyesight? That does make a huge difference. What base picture mode did you use to do the setup and what other settings or enhancements were turned on when you did the setup? Just curious. Most owners of these TVs and up with brightness between 50 and 54 or the blacks lose that deep, inky nature that OLED is famous for.

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For HDR sources do you leave the TV at default or do you adjust those settings too? If you adjust them also, what settings, on the B6, do you recommend for HDR10 discs?
I have the E6 but for HDR I use HDR standard and then dial down the OLED light and contrast a little bit. OLED light 90 and contrast at like 85-88 works for me. I turn OFF all of the other enhancements. I set brightness at 51-52. Works for most content for me. You'll have to experiment a bit!

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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
I am happy with the Dark Expert settings (mainly using Rtings) so far.

Question please: should I use the same settings for HDR content (some like gama I cannot even change) or leave them at default (for example OLED light defaults to 100)?
See my reply above for HDR. You'll have to see what you like but IMO the default settings for HDR are a little high. I reduce them a little bit out of the box. And yeah, many of the settings are greyed out in those modes. Watch some familiar content and experiment a bit. It takes sometime to dial in the set but it's worth it. Eventually, you'll "nail it" like many of us have.
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Originally Posted by RoadLizard View Post
59 for brightness seems very high. But, all panels are slightly different. Did you do the disneybsetup in a dark room with dark adapted eyesight? That does make a huge difference. What base picture mode did you use to do the setup and what other settings or enhancements were turned on when you did the setup? Just curious. Most owners of these TVs and up with brightness between 50 and 54 or the blacks lose that deep, inky nature that OLED is famous for.
It only looked good on the WOW contrast and brightness test at 59. As soon as I watched something, even the DENON logo (I am running everything through my AVR), very dark scenes looked washed-it with brightness at 59. It kind of looked like light bleed but not really - more orangish grey bleed where it should have been dark in the background of that logo. Also kind of a uniformity issue with that orangish green black looking like spilt water from the sides across the canvas of the screen. I turned down brightness and that dark discolor/uniformity issue lessened. Around 56 to 55 it went away. I currently have it at 53 and might try lower.

I was watching Magnificent 7 (new one) from a UHD disc last night. It had a lot of night time scenes. They looked good, and there might have been loss of detail in some dark scenes but I never saw the black in scenes, or perhaps just small parts of the screen at one point, completely blend with the black bars. So if blacks were always/mostly somewhat lighter than the black bars, I assume there was no black crush. Perhaps the scenes where one might think there is black crush(for example/ scenes where much of someone's body was completely black and blending in with the black scenery when a character was inside a dark building at night, and it was showing his face but from neck down, most of the body was same black as the inside of the dark building), is how it was intended. In other words, maybe what is opined as black crush is how content was meant to be. Either way, it matches how you would see something. At night, in rural areas with no night light, someone peering out of a dark barn would likely be seen as completely black except for his exposed face looking out.

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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
It only looked good on the WOW contrast and brightness test at 59. As soon as I watched something, even the DENON logo (I am running everything through my AVR), very dark scenes looked washed-it with brightness at 59. It kind of looked like light bleed but not really - more orangish grey bleed where it should have been dark in the background of that logo. Also kind of a uniformity issue with that orangish green black looking like spilt water from the sides across the canvas of the screen. I turned down brightness and that dark discolor/uniformity issue lessened. Around 56 to 55 it went away. I currently have it at 53 and might try lower.

I was watching Magnificent 7 (new one) from a UHD disc last night. It had a lot of night time scenes. They looked good, and there might have been loss of detail in some dark scenes but I never saw the black in scenes, or perhaps just small parts of the screen at one point, completely blend with the black bars. So if blacks were always/mostly somewhat lighter than the black bars, I assume there was no black crush. Perhaps the scenes where one might think there is black crush(for example/ scenes where much of someone's body was completely black and blending in with the black scenery when a character was inside a dark building at night, and it was showing his face but from neck down, most of the body was same black as the inside of the dark building), is how it was intended. In other words, maybe what is opined as black crush is how content was meant to be. Either way, it matches how you would see something. At night, in rural areas with no night light, someone peering out of a dark barn would likely be seen as completely black except for his exposed face looking out.
Im not surprised that 59 ended up too high for actual content. Glad to hear you're getting it dialed in. As you watch content you'll get a good feel for the right brightness setting. You're almost there now

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post #23 of 111 Old 02-03-2017, 07:56 AM
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Thanks Rich for getting this thread started. Great effort on your part to grab info and on updates.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
Any problems putting brightness to 59?



I just went through all the brightness and contrast tools on Disney WOW. With OLED light at 65, I had to run Contrast at 100 and Brightness at 59 to see all the visible white and black and not see darker than black and brighter than white test patterns.



Any drawback to having it at 59?


Yea the wow disc is weird and not sure it's accurate for this tv. I ran the disk and had contrast/bright 91/52 at first, then on advanced pattern it was 97/54.

Everything I read on avforums said this was too much so I toned it down.

I'm also curious if the wow disk color patterns are accurate? Because I used the blue filter and color 60 matches the blue and white bars. But everyone wants to use 50 and says "60 is way too much color". Any thoughts?


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It looks like there are 2 lines of thought comparing rtings and avforums and all the posts (before fine tweaking):

Contrast is either around 80 or close to 100. Not sure which is actually correct.

Most brightness settings are around 50.

And color is either at 50 or 60.

I like the oled light high (100). Disney wow got me to contrast/brightness 91/52, color 60, tint 0. Gamma 2.4 looks the best to me.

If I turn contrast to 80 and gamma to 2.2 that looks ok too. But I'm not sure which is correct.


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Originally Posted by KungFuEnglish View Post
Yea the wow disc is weird and not sure it's accurate for this tv. I ran the disk and had contrast/bright 91/52 at first, then on advanced pattern it was 97/54.

Everything I read on avforums said this was too much so I toned it down.

I'm also curious if the wow disk color patterns are accurate? Because I used the blue filter and color 60 matches the blue and white bars. But everyone wants to use 50 and says "60 is way too much color". Any thoughts?


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I had same thing with an LCD 4K TV on the color needing to be higher to get the bars to match. Also, on the scale or some such test, it shows a bar down the middle when I use my UHD player. I guess WOW is outdated for newer TVs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KungFuEnglish View Post
It looks like there are 2 lines of thought comparing rtings and avforums and all the posts (before fine tweaking):

Contrast is either around 80 or close to 100. Not sure which is actually correct.

Most brightness settings are around 50.

And color is either at 50 or 60.

I like the oled light high (100). Disney wow got me to contrast/brightness 91/52, color 60, tint 0. Gamma 2.4 looks the best to me.

If I turn contrast to 80 and gamma to 2.2 that looks ok too. But I'm not sure which is correct.


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Which is correct is which ever looks best to you. Best to sit down and watch an hour or so with something you are familiar with (I like to use Independence Day because I've seen it so often and it has so many striking scenes.)

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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
I had same thing with an LCD 4K TV on the color needing to be higher to get the bars to match. Also, on the scale or some such test, it shows a bar down the middle when I use my UHD player. I guess WOW is outdated for newer TVs.
Good info though the WOW comments contradicts some earlier. Without having seen it, I'm inclined to agree. Frankly, I don't think any discs for honing the image that were designed with LCDs is really best for the OLEDs. I'm looking forward to the new discs that should be coming out this year. Meanwhile, get video that looks really good to you and be happy...!

I've posted some pics of my newly setup B6 at the end of my signature theater thread. Especially if you have a bright room to deal with, you may want to take a look. (And I have a night time shot also.)

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Which is correct is which ever looks best to you. Best to sit down and watch an hour or so with something you are familiar with (I like to use Independence Day because I've seen it so often and it has so many striking scenes.)







Good info though the WOW comments contradicts some earlier. Without having seen it, I'm inclined to agree. Frankly, I don't think any discs for honing the image that were designed with LCDs is really best for the OLEDs. I'm looking forward to the new discs that should be coming out this year. Meanwhile, get video that looks really good to you and be happy...!



I've posted some pics of my newly setup B6 at the end of my signature theater thread. Especially if you have a bright room to deal with, you may want to take a look. (And I have a night time shot also.)


Cross posting because relevance. Your room pretty solid in the bright. I have pretty bright room during playtime hours with the kids so it's relevant.

Question: are bright room and dark room different if you make all the other settings the same? Ie is there some difference to the internal processing as well that's not represented in settings?

2) did you do any color or wb adjusting? Curious if I'm trying too hard to make the colors right and should just leave color management and white balance at 0s.

Also fwiw the Disney wow DVD does let you select "oled" for the calibration videos but who knows if that's accurate still.






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post #29 of 111 Old 02-04-2017, 02:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Cross posting because relevance. Your room pretty solid in the bright. I have pretty bright room during playtime hours with the kids so it's relevant.

Question: are bright room and dark room different if you make all the other settings the same? Ie is there some difference to the internal processing as well that's not represented in settings?

2) did you do any color or wb adjusting? Curious if I'm trying too hard to make the colors right and should just leave color management and white balance at 0s.

Also fwiw the Disney wow DVD does let you select "oled" for the calibration videos but who knows if that's accurate still.

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I think whether or not you want to change your settings from bright day vs. night time viewing is going to be another matter of preference. Do I think it's best to switch? As soon as I saw the picture when I turned the tv on this morning, I felt the isf Expert (Dark Room) was darker than I wanted. But it only required one change -- to isf Expert (Bright Room) to get what I think is just a spectacular image. You can watch it with Dark Room, but I don't really think anyone would be pleased with it.

However, yesterday when it was cloudy, I didn't feel the need to change off of Dark Room. Could I improve it, yes, but it was more of a "why bother?". A lot of this is going to depend on what setting adjustments you have for Dark Room (or whatever). (And btw, I've made no changes to the color or white balance -- played some on the first day, but set them back.)

Having the tv for less than 2 days, I can't be sure that any settings I have now are the same as I will have in two weeks or two months. But my goal was to have things ready for the Super Bowl -- I don't want to be messing during the game -- or even during the pre-game. I've been watching on and off now for the past 7 hours with various program including Sportscenter, basketball, checkingn out Deadpool in this bright light (still amazing!) and now the golf tournament. Early sun from the east, direct sun from due south or the now westering sun, I've had no reason to make any changes.

The only adjustments from original settings that I've made is this:
Eye Comfort Mode: On
Contrast: 85
Brightness:50
H & V Sharpness to 0
Color Gamut: Wide
All Picture Option Off except Black Level: Low

Dark Room sets Contrast to 92 and Gamma to BT.1886
Bright Room set Contrast to 85 and Gamma to 2.2

As the sun gets closer to the horizon and more westerly putting my LR in shadow, I still see a difference in Dark vs Bright Room, but it's hard to state a preference. As everything get slightly darker around me, the Bright Room is starting to wash out color but Dark Room is still hiding shadow detail.

All in all, I still think I'm setup fine for Super Bowl and have a much better feel for how things adjust. Oh -- and for the Super Bowl I will pull my chair forward to about 9-10 feet from it's current "wife" placement of 12 feet. (I find myself looking at a still life scene of a large boulder surrounded by cactus, etc and just laughing with joy because the picture looks so good.)

Edit: I copied this response to my HT thread.

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I think whether or not you want to change your settings from bright day vs. night time viewing is going to be another matter of preference. Do I think it's best to switch? As soon as I saw the picture when I turned the tv on this morning, I felt the isf Expert (Dark Room) was darker than I wanted. But it only required one change -- to isf Expert (Bright Room) to get what I think is just a spectacular image. You can watch it with Dark Room, but I don't really think anyone would be pleased with it.



However, yesterday when it was cloudy, I didn't feel the need to change off of Dark Room. Could I improve it, yes, but it was more of a "why bother?". A lot of this is going to depend on what setting adjustments you have for Dark Room (or whatever). (And btw, I've made no changes to the color or white balance -- played some on the first day, but set them back.)



Having the tv for less than 2 days, I can't be sure that any settings I have now are the same as I will have in two weeks or two months. But my goal was to have things ready for the Super Bowl -- I don't want to be messing during the game -- or even during the pre-game. I've been watching on and off now for the past 7 hours with various program including Sportscenter, basketball, checkingn out Deadpool in this bright light (still amazing!) and now the golf tournament. Early sun from the east, direct sun from due south or the now westering sun, I've had no reason to make any changes.



The only adjustments from original settings that I've made is this:

Eye Comfort Mode: On

Contrast: 85

Brightness:50

H & V Sharpness to 0

Color Gamut: Wide

All Picture Option Off except Black Level: Low



Dark Room sets Contrast to 92 and Gamma to BT.1886

Bright Room set Contrast to 85 and Gamma to 2.2



As the sun gets closer to the horizon and more westerly putting my LR in shadow, I still see a difference in Dark vs Bright Room, but it's hard to state a preference. As everything get slightly darker around me, the Bright Room is starting to wash out color but Dark Room is still hiding shadow detail.



All in all, I still think I'm setup fine for Super Bowl and have a much better feel for how things adjust. Oh -- and for the Super Bowl I will pull my chair forward to about 9-10 feet from it's current "wife" placement of 12 feet. (I find myself looking at a still life scene of a large boulder surrounded by cactus, etc and just laughing with joy because the picture looks so good.)



Edit: I copied this response to my HT thread.


Thanks. Yea i see the convenience of changing bright and dark room but I guess my question is if your bright and dark room settings are identical will/should the picture also be identical?

The main reason I want to know is so I can compare 2 setting changes to each other by just switching back and forth. Then when I pick one I can get one set and just change the oled for dark room probably and be ok.

I tend to like my oled on 100 no matter what though because I don't know why actually. I should prob try a dark room setting of lower for really dark surroundings and see how I like it. When you first set it before letting your eyes adjust it just looks so dim so I turn it back up. And I've been doing all this setting adjusting during the day time.

But I think bt.1886 gamma is the way to go. I think the picture looks deeper overall and from what I was reading it's a better curve than 2.2/2.4. Even in daytime I like the 1886. 2.4 looks pretty similar to me tho too.


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