Sony A1E 4K HDR OLED TV Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 271 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8101 of 8123 Old 03-06-2019, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by demonbane View Post
Has anyone else had issues with HDR/DV content looking pretty terrible in dark scenes on the A1E? I just had a professional calibration done today in the hopes that it would fix it and while it did improve it a little bit, it's still very much there.

A great example would be around the 10:00 mark in Avengers: Age of Ultron when Tony is walking into the cavern with the huge mechanical beast thing in it. That entire scene just has this terrible grey washed-out effect. I also get the same thing in The Matrix, John Wick 2, etc.
Have you done the latest firmware update? That helped my DV

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post #8102 of 8123 Old 03-21-2019, 05:11 PM
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Can anyone confirm that the dimming issue is still a thing? I’m confused at this point, I don’t see anyone taking about it for a couple of months. I’m running firmware 6.5830 and I’m still encountering the dimming issue.

I’m afraid that it’s something they fixed on the latest batches of A1E.. since no one’s talking about it anymore :-( - or has everyone given up?
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post #8103 of 8123 Old 03-22-2019, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Nelchior View Post
Can anyone confirm that the dimming issue is still a thing? I’m confused at this point, I don’t see anyone taking about it for a couple of months. I’m running firmware 6.5830 and I’m still encountering the dimming issue.

I’m afraid that it’s something they fixed on the latest batches of A1E.. since no one’s talking about it anymore :-( - or has everyone given up?
Yep, i'm still getting it on my Oct 2017 model.

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post #8104 of 8123 Old 03-26-2019, 01:06 PM
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What size bolts do I Need to wall mount my a1e? I'm reusing my old wall mount but the bolts are too big.
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post #8105 of 8123 Old 03-26-2019, 01:31 PM
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What size bolts do I Need to wall mount my a1e? I'm reusing my old wall mount but the bolts are too big.
The manual says M6, with 10 to 14mm of the bolt going into the TV. So you need them whatever thickness the mount takes plus 10 to 14mm. Usually the standard lengths likely to work would be 16 or 20mm. So a 16mm would work if your mount takes between 2 and 6mm thick and the 20mm would work if it is between 6 and 10mm thick.

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post #8106 of 8123 Old 03-27-2019, 03:55 AM
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Yep, i'm still getting it on my Oct 2017 model.
Do you mean by that that it doesn't happen on newer models?

And how come I don't see anyone talking about it in here (or on Sony's forums)?
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post #8107 of 8123 Old 03-27-2019, 05:20 AM
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Do you mean by that that it doesn't happen on newer models?

And how come I don't see anyone talking about it in here (or on Sony's forums)?
Some people say that there's no problem now or it has little effect. Mine kicks off even if there's a little hash tag (Eg. BBC) in the corner and as soon as it disappears it comes bright again (latest firmware).

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post #8108 of 8123 Old 03-28-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lsorensen View Post
The manual says M6, with 10 to 14mm of the bolt going into the TV. So you need them whatever thickness the mount takes plus 10 to 14mm. Usually the standard lengths likely to work would be 16 or 20mm. So a 16mm would work if your mount takes between 2 and 6mm thick and the 20mm would work if it is between 6 and 10mm thick.
Worked like a charm. Got 4 M6 16MM bolts and re-used my old wall mount w/no issues. Wall Mounting this TV is as easy as mounting any other VESA compatible TV. I made sure I had the support brackets that came w/ the TV as well.
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post #8109 of 8123 Old 04-18-2019, 09:36 AM
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Ok after I sent pictures after pictures of my stuck pixel, Sony will be sending me abreplacing unit. I’ll need to markup my screen and remove serial stickers cut it up and mail back to them.
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Hi Jarrett Wu would you post pics of the stuck pixel

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post #8110 of 8123 Old 05-11-2019, 01:14 PM
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I was going Atmos over arc on Vudu with my A1E Vudu app. It doesn’t do it anymore today. Any ideas? Sound is set to Dolby digital plus on the A1E. It worked fine for months and just stopped today!

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post #8111 of 8123 Old 06-18-2019, 12:00 AM
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Frustration with A1E and programmable remote

A bit long, but hoping someone can help...

I recently bought an XBR77A1E, and while I love the set in general, it's driving me crazy trying to get it to pay nice with my old work-horse Harmony One programmable remote. 90% is fine, but the last 10% is driving me crazy...

For basic TV watching, I use a Tivo and want the audio to come from the A1E itself (ie: I don't want 5.1 audio). To accomplish this, I have the Tivo wired via HDMI into my Denon receiver, and the receiver is set for HDMI pass-through of the Tivo signal when it's powered off. The A1E is set to [Action]->[Speakers]->[TV Speakers]. All good.

For blu-ray, game consoles, etc (all of which are wired to the receiver), I want 5.1 audio, so I turn the receiver on, select the correct receiver input, and mute the TV. Again, all good.

Now the case that fails: I want to use the A1E's streaming apps for 4K Netflix, Amazon, etc, with 5.1 audio. I want to use the A1E's streaming apps because my Tivo (a 6 tuner Roamio w/ 1TB) doesn't output 4K (which has been fine, since Comcast has so little 4K content). So... my goal is to program a Harmony One button for "Streaming content" that sets everything up, and then I simply select the desired app in the A1E. For the audio path, I have digital audio fiber running from the A1E to the Denon, and can easily select that as the input. The problem is getting the TV to generate the audio down that fiber.

To make this work, the required setting is [Action]->[Speakers]->[Audio system], and then change back to ->[TV Speakers] when exiting this mode. But I have yet to find a simple -- and more important, reliable -- way to change between the [TV Speakers] and [Audio system] settings in the [Action]->[Speakers] menu.

There are a few problems:
1) When the receiver powers on/off, it seems to kick the A1E out of the Actions menu.
2) When you send the "Action" press, you don't know where in the Action menu your "cursor" really is.
So I used the following brute force method to solve for these:

To get into the Streaming mode:
- Turn Receiver on
- Sleep for 10 seconds (for it to power up, and the A1E to see the hdmi line as stable)
- Send the "Action" button
- Wait a half second (or the next button sent gets lost)
- Send a series of 7 "Down Arrow" buttons to ensure I've hit the bottom of the Actions menu
- Send a single "Up Arrow" button to get to the "[Speakers]" menu.
- Send the "Select" button to enter the "[Speakers]" menu
- Sleep for 1 second (or the next button gets lost)
- Send a "Down Arrow" button to move to the "[Audio system]" radio button
- Send a "Select" button to select the "[Audio system]" option
- Send a "Home" button to get back out

And to exit Streaming mode, it's similar but requires 8 down-arrow buttons in the [Actions] menu, as there is an additional menu item when in the [Audio system] mode.

Though that seems crazy imo, it should work. But it only works 80% of the time. The other 20%, I can see the sequence get into the [Action] menu, but a down-arrow gets lost somewhere so I don't make it all the way to the bottom of the menu, and thus when it goes back up one item to attempt to get to [Speakers], it's really on the menu above that.

I've tried slowing down the inter-key and inter-device delays, but it hasn't made it more reliable. And it's already taking an absurd amount of time to run through that menu sequence button-by-button.

Are there any easier (and more reliable) ways to toggle the audio output between [TV Speakers] and [Audio system]? Or have both [TV Speakers] and [Audio system] on at the same time (and I can just Mute the TV)?

I'm also very surprised that the A1E "loses" buttons sent to it if you don't wait (a long time) for the menu to paint.

The other alternative is to punt on using the A1E's apps completely, and use a different box with all of the 4K apps I want, and have this wired just like any other receiver input. eg: a 4K tivo or blu-ray player with apps or ... This will certainly work, but it seems silly I can't leverage the apps in the TV...
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post #8112 of 8123 Old 06-18-2019, 05:32 AM
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Why would you not want to use your receiver for regular TV? Regular TV audio sounds pretty good, and the A1E's speakers… do not.

Once you listen to regular TV audio through your sound system, you won't ever go back to horrid TV speakers.
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post #8113 of 8123 Old 06-18-2019, 09:36 AM
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I agree with the other post that if you can simplify your setup by just always using your AV receiver and 5.1 sound, then that will greatly simplify your Harmony setup and give you more reliability. Trying to navigate many GUI menu items via individual Harmony IR commands is unfortunately not dependable (as you've seen).

If you really need this to work, how about trying this different approach -- The A1E has a sound setting to automatically use external speakers when it detects them (through HDMI-CEC/ARC). You can enable those settings and then control use of your 5.1 sound by just powering on (or off) your AV receiver. This should be simpler and more reliable than navigating through all those menu options. The other advantage of this is that the TV speakers automatically switch off and there's no need to explicitly mute the TV volume. In fact, with ARC you can use the TV volume and mute controls and they will control the AV receiver. You also get the TV's on-screen volume display (which I preferred over my previous Marantz's volume display and it also didn't appear with 4K signals but which the A1E volume GUI supports).

One caveat and warning -- I always use my AV receiver for sound but sadly there is no A1E sound setting to always use external speakers. I therefore must rely on the A1E correctly detecting the AV receiver when the A1E powers on but it's not reliable. About ~20% of the time it still uses or switches back to internal speakers. I've tried various Harmony delay changes but can't seem to improve the reliability, so I just turn everything off and on again when it's wrong. Therefore even with my suggestion above you may still have intermittent issues getting 5.1 sound for your Streaming activity. At least things will be much faster with this simpler approach.

Good luck! Harmony programming can sometimes be a hobby in itself...

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post #8114 of 8123 Old 06-18-2019, 09:18 PM
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Why would you not want to use your receiver for regular TV? Regular TV audio sounds pretty good, and the A1E's speakers… do not.
Lol. Something just doesn't "feel" right when I'm watching the news, etc, with 5.1 audio. Perhaps it's just my brain being silly as it's not used to it. But I'd rather find a technical solution than a mental one. :-)
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post #8115 of 8123 Old 06-18-2019, 09:26 PM
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The A1E has a sound setting to automatically use external speakers when it detects them (through HDMI-CEC/ARC). ... One caveat and warning ... About ~20% of the time it still uses or switches back to internal speakers.
I'll give CEC/ARC a try. Someone who was [in theory] knowledgeable said Digital Optical Audio is better so I used that, but failed to ask why. I'd be interested to know what others here think are the pros/cons?

Your 20% failure rate is disappointing. I wonder where the failure is, and curious if my config would have a similar issue or not, Or if this is an example of why some say digital optical audio is better. :-)
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post #8116 of 8123 Old 06-18-2019, 10:28 PM
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I'll give CEC/ARC a try. Someone who was [in theory] knowledgeable said Digital Optical Audio is better so I used that, but failed to ask why. I'd be interested to know what others here think are the pros/cons?

Your 20% failure rate is disappointing. I wonder where the failure is, and curious if my config would have a similar issue or not, Or if this is an example of why some say digital optical audio is better. :-)
HDMI-CEC is the way your AV receiver detects the other components, turns them on, controls volume, etc. Sony's detection of external sound uses CEC. The ~20% error rate is completely up to Sony's implementation and has not any fault of CEC, nor does it affect audio quality or have anything to do with ARC.

ARC simplifies the cabling between your AV receiver and TV. I doubt you'd notice any difference in audio quality between Optical and ARC. There are only some subtle protocols that one supports over the other (e.g., Dolby something), see https://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-vs-op...ection-to-use/. It's more likely your video source does not support those protocols anyway. The newer eARC that just came out enhances what protocols are supported, but A1E doesn't support it anyway. I found this comparison chart between Toslink (Optical) / ARC / eARC, from https://www.whathifi.com/us/advice/h...-need-to-know:


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post #8117 of 8123 Old 06-18-2019, 11:41 PM
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Why would you not want to use your receiver for regular TV? Regular TV audio sounds pretty good, and the A1E's speakers… do not.

Once you listen to regular TV audio through your sound system, you won't ever go back to horrid TV speakers.
You must own a different A1E than I do, ‘cause my A1E speakers sound pretty damn good. By far the best sounding tv I’ve ever owned.
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post #8118 of 8123 Old 06-19-2019, 04:57 AM
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You must own a different A1E than I do, ‘cause my A1E speakers sound pretty damn good. By far the best sounding tv I’ve ever owned.
They sound OK for flat screen TV speakers but are horrible compared to even the most basic sound bar let alone any kind of surround system.
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post #8119 of 8123 Old 06-19-2019, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rdlm View Post
Lol. Something just doesn't "feel" right when I'm watching the news, etc, with 5.1 audio. Perhaps it's just my brain being silly as it's not used to it. But I'd rather find a technical solution than a mental one. :-)
Use your surround system but set the mode to regular 2.1 stereo when watching most regular TV, and to 5.1 when watching network TV programs or many newer cable shows.

Give it a try.
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post #8120 of 8123 Old 06-19-2019, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rdlm View Post
A bit long, but hoping someone can help...

[...]

Are there any easier (and more reliable) ways to toggle the audio output between [TV Speakers] and [Audio system]? Or have both [TV Speakers] and [Audio system] on at the same time (and I can just Mute the TV)?

I'm also very surprised that the A1E "loses" buttons sent to it if you don't wait (a long time) for the menu to paint.

The other alternative is to punt on using the A1E's apps completely, and use a different box with all of the 4K apps I want, and have this wired just like any other receiver input. eg: a 4K tivo or blu-ray player with apps or ... This will certainly work, but it seems silly I can't leverage the apps in the TV...
Not really sure I understand, just seems like you're trying to complicate the situation more than it needs to be...and you seem to already know the answer. Sony TVs have all audio output methods "hot" at once -- e.g. the internal speakers, digital optical, and analog 3.5mm out all function simultaneously. There is no need to toggle between "TV Speakers" and "Audio System," unless you just wanted the internal speakers to be inactive/disabled. Leaving it on "TV Speakers" will continue to pass 5.1 from the optical out to your AVR, the only caveat being that you'll need to remember to turn the internal TV speakers to "0" once you wanted to use your AVR for streaming app audio.

The apps built into the A1E are certainly usable (and have gotten much more so since its initial release), but I find the experience is easily surpassed with the Apple TV 4K, so that's what I'd recommend adding. The only time I really use the built-in stuff is casting from my phone while watching Youtube, which is super convenient since the casting powers my TV on from standby.

movies Sony 65A1E|Sonus faber Toy, Toy Center, Venere Wall|SVS SB2000|Sony ZA5000ES|UDP 205/UB820|ATV 4K
music Sonus faber Liuto|REL S/5|Sony A1ES|Wadia 321|Sony SCD-777ES|Sony PS-HX500|Sonos Connect|AQ Niagara 5000
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post #8121 of 8123 Old 06-19-2019, 08:49 PM
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Use your surround system but set the mode to regular 2.1 stereo when watching most regular TV, and to 5.1 when watching network TV programs or many newer cable shows.
Give it a try.
Great simplification, and may appease my brain.

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... Sony TVs have all audio output methods "hot" at once -- e.g. the internal speakers, digital optical, and analog 3.5mm out all function simultaneously. There is no need to toggle between "TV Speakers" and "Audio System," unless you just wanted the internal speakers to be inactive/disabled. Leaving it on "TV Speakers" will continue to pass 5.1 from the optical out to your AVR, the only caveat being that you'll need to remember to turn the internal TV speakers to "0" once you wanted to use your AVR for streaming app audio.
This does not match my experience, but I wish it did! If I set up the receiver to pick up the optical from the A1E and have the TV set for [TV Speakers], then I get audio from the TV and silence from the receiver. If I then go into the A1E and toggle the Speaker setting to [Audio System], the A1E speakers go silent and the receiver pumps out sound. I've hunted through the settings to determine if there is some setting to make it always "hot" but don't see one. Are you sure your A1E is behaving this way? Perhaps it used to but no longer does with more recent firmware updates? Dunno... but the behavior you describe would be all I need. I'm also curious that if all outputs are always "hot" then what's the sense of that setting, other than an alternative to Mute?

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The apps built into the A1E are certainly usable (and have gotten much more so since its initial release), but I find the experience is easily surpassed with the Apple TV 4K, so that's what I'd recommend adding. The only time I really use the built-in stuff is casting from my phone while watching Youtube, which is super convenient since the casting powers my TV on from standby.
Yup, a separate box with 4k support such as the Apple TV or the Tivo Bolt are both options I'd consider if I go this path.
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post #8122 of 8123 Old 06-20-2019, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rdlm View Post

This does not match my experience, but I wish it did! If I set up the receiver to pick up the optical from the A1E and have the TV set for [TV Speakers], then I get audio from the TV and silence from the receiver. If I then go into the A1E and toggle the Speaker setting to [Audio System], the A1E speakers go silent and the receiver pumps out sound. I've hunted through the settings to determine if there is some setting to make it always "hot" but don't see one. Are you sure your A1E is behaving this way? Perhaps it used to but no longer does with more recent firmware updates? Dunno... but the behavior you describe would be all I need. I'm also curious that if all outputs are always "hot" then what's the sense of that setting, other than an alternative to Mute?

Okay, so I looked into it on my A1E, and I'll stand (half) corrected. If I leave the A1E set to "TV Speakers," I get audio output over optical to my AVR, but it's 2-channel PCM, plus the A1E's built-in speakers. Once I switch to "Audio System," I get 5.1 channel audio from compatible streaming apps. I suppose I never noticed since I never use the inbuilt apps with my AVR. I definitely don't get silence from the optical port when using the "TV Speakers" setting, though. Latest firmware, v 6.6510.

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post #8123 of 8123 Old 06-21-2019, 12:30 AM
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Sony A1E 4K HDR OLED TV Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatuglyguy View Post
... If I leave the A1E set to "TV Speakers," I get audio output over optical to my AVR, but it's 2-channel PCM, plus the A1E's built-in speakers ... Latest firmware, v 6.6510.
Very interesting that we get different results. I'm wondering what other setting or condition might cause this?

I'm new to the A1E, so not sure about the version numbering. Mine says it's up to date and shows:
  • Version: 8.0.0
  • Kernel: 3.10.79
  • Build: BRAVIA_ATV2_UC-user 8.0.0 OPR2.170623.027.S23 665101 release-keys

I assume 8.0.0 is the Android TV version. But I'm unsure about the firmware version number. You said you have v6.6510. I see "665101" at the end of my build number, which is similar, but even if I assume the "dot" after the first digit, mine is still different than yours.

Last edited by rdlm; 06-22-2019 at 07:49 AM.
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