2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1049 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31441 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mjwagner View Post
Which one are you looking at for $40? Some of them are IR only which can be an issue depending on your devices. The hub based ones are the best bet but they are usually more expensive.

The Harmony 650 as someone suggested yesterday. I don’t know anything about these.

My devices include:

C7
DirecTV receiver
LG 4K player
Apple 4k TV
Denon 1100 AVR
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post #31442 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by maverick22 View Post
The Harmony 650 as someone suggested yesterday. I don’t know anything about these.

My devices include:

C7
DirecTV receiver
LG 4K player
Apple 4k TV
Denon 1100 AVR
Don't know if the Harmony 700 is a lot more but the 700 has a built-in charger so you can install rechargeable Li-Ion batteries and charge them via micro USB cable.
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post #31443 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by maverick22 View Post
The Harmony 650 as someone suggested yesterday. I don’t know anything about these.

My devices include:

C7
DirecTV receiver
LG 4K player
Apple 4k TV
Denon 1100 AVR
they work fine and the 650 is easy to setup, my take a few fine tunings but walks you through the set-up process! https://www.logitech.com/en-us/harmo...versal-remotes
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post #31444 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by maverick22 View Post
The Harmony 650 as someone suggested yesterday. I don’t know anything about these.

My devices include:

C7
DirecTV receiver
LG 4K player
Apple 4k TV
Denon 1100 AVR
The 650 is IR only so as long as your devices can be controlled by IR you should be fine. Just be aware that one of the downsides of the non-hub based Harmony remotes (or any non-hub based IR remotes for that matter) is that you need to keep the remote pointed at your devices until it is done sending out all of the IR commands. If you don't, then things get out of sync and it can be a bit of a pain. Once set up correctly, the hub based remotes are much more bullet proof.
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post #31445 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:10 AM
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The harmony 650 is a decent remote. That's what I'm using currently. Mainly for my wife. The advantage (For my wife) is that it has 3 HARD BUTTONS at the top that are programmable with activities. 1) Watch TV; (For me, that's my directv satellite); 2) Watch a movie (Meaning Blueray-dvd); 3) Listen to music. (I actually changed this to watching Roku). These three buttons are all my wife needs. Most of her viewing is in the bedroom with that tv. But on a saturday or sunday morning when I sleep in, she can come down stairs and watch the B7P and this remote makes it simple.

Of course, besides these 3 hard buttons, I also have all my other activities programmed into the screen buttons. My favorite harmony remote is the older Harmony ONE. But it doesn't have those hard buttons. Now; in another month or two; I will probably be getting rid of Directv Satellite. I've been testing Directv NOW, (The online streaming version). It's been pretty good, and I can get basically the same channels as with satellite, for $50-$60 less per month.

When I switch to non-satellite, I may get a new remote. Everything except bluray/dvd will be handled by the roku or apple tv 4k. And I won't have need of a remote with a numeric keypad (No need for channel numbers for direct entry). If i didn't have the avr, bluray, laserdisc, on top of my roku and apple tv, I could live with just the roku remote. That's the plan for the bedroom. The roku remote can power the tv and volume. So my wife will only need that one. For me; downstairs with the B7P and home theater; I'll either stick with the 650, go back to the harmony ONE, or look at a better one.

But as mentioned, the 650 is a good remote. It will do a LOT of activities. It's only drawbacks are: 1) It is limited to only 8 devices. Fine for most peopl. 2) The keyboard "CAN" have a quality issue. My last 650, I only had for about 4 months, half of the number keys no longer worked. Also so of the page down buttons stopped working. But at $39.99, I can live with getting a replacement. My Harmony ONE has been kicking butt for more than 7 years.
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post #31446 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:15 AM
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Suggestions for a good one that isn’t IR only then but is still close to around $100?

Thanks for the info so far!
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post #31447 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:17 AM
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Suggestions for a good one that isn’t IR only then but is still close to around $100?

Thanks for the info so far!
This -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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post #31448 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:30 AM
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The keyboard "CAN" have a quality issue. My last 650, I only had for about 4 months, half of the number keys no longer worked.
That sounds familiar. I had a Harmony 350 for our simple bedroom setup that lasted less than a year of moderate use. Keep your warranty papers around for these.
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post #31449 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:38 AM
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I started with a Harmony Hub Keyboard (now discontinued), and added that remote to it. Used it for years across multiple game systems, receivers, and TVs. I've been happy with it. Recently I added the Harmony 950 remote to that same old hub.


The biggest pain in setup is when you change equipment. Like when I got this TV. Because the old TV was part of all the activities, removing it broke them, then I couldn't get them to repair with the new TV. In the end I just factory reset the whole thing, and started from scratch. That only took about an hour (I have a lot of devices, including lights and thermostats, all of which the Harmony can control).


The Harmony Hub integrates well with Google Home too. I can say "Hey Google, ask Harmony to watch smart TV," and it fires off the Watch Smart TV activity, which turns on everything, and dims the lights.
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post #31450 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 08:53 AM
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they work fine and the 650 is easy to setup, my take a few fine tunings but walks you through the set-up process! https://www.logitech.com/en-us/harmo...versal-remotes
I've had the 880, the one and now the ultimate. Great products all. I even have Alexa controlling the Ultimate. I say turn on the TV and the C7 turns on, then the processor, then all the inputs switch to whats been programmed. Saying "listen to music" turns on my Oppo and switches all the inputs on the C7 and my XMC-1 accordingly. One remote to rule them all! A bit pricey but well worth the $$ IMHO.
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post #31451 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 09:12 AM
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Looking at all the 1 star reviews on Amazon makes me hesitant (like anything I guess with online reviews).

Don’t know if I have the patience for these haha. Just my current setup alone and its problems are a pain (ongoing AVR switching issues, recent CEC issues). Guess only way I’ll know is trying it out at a place with a decent return policy.

Thanks again!
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post #31452 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 09:31 AM
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+1 on the Alexa/Harmony combo. It is amazing to be able to switch through my consoles/appletv/directv with just my voice.
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post #31453 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 09:42 AM
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+1 on the Alexa/Harmony combo. It is amazing to be able to switch through my consoles/appletv/directv with just my voice.
Yeah, I already loved my Harmony Hub. It controls everything (TV, AVR, BR, Cable, Xbox, PS4) flawlessly, but the integration with Alexa really brought it all to the next level. Now my GF can walk in to the room and say "Alexa, turn on 'my murder shows'" and everything comes on, switches inputs, and voila...ID network is on.

...I just wish she'd stop doing that when I'm gaming.
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post #31454 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:08 AM
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Are the Logitech Harmony remotes pretty easy to set up, and are they user friendly?

The $40 has me wanting to try one. Does it find your devices easily and work reliably?

Even my wife would appreciate less remotes, as long as the Harmony wouldn’t be a headache itself.

Thanks, everyone!
The Harmony remotes are programmed from a PC application. (You connect the remote to the PC using a USB cable.) I found it pretty straightforward. One peculiarity of the software is that it requires an internet connection to run. I guess that's due to Logitech maintaining an online archive of device codes. (The good news is that they have a lot of devices in their database.)

Someone else mentioned a feature of the 650/700 that some might find difficult. Depending on what "activity" is invoked, the remote may have to be kept pointed at the devices it's controlling for 15-20 seconds. That's a long time, in real life. Also, as it's IR, the devices must be close enough together that the beam covers them all. Maybe the "hub" type remotes would be better, but they are more expensive.

Also, there can be an issue for people who aren't tech savvy. If the wrong button is pressed on the remote, some may find it difficult to get it back in the correct mode.

There are no completely robust solutions. Example: I bought my father a simplified remote that could only control 2 devices. (This was to control a TV and its cable box.) However, when the remote was set to control the TV (by a wrong button push), changing the channel automatically switched the TV's signal input from HDMI to the TV's tuner. My father could never master changing the TV's inputs. After walking him through it a few times, I suggested that he go back to the remote that came with the cable box. (He was 95. It's no longer a concern, as he died last November.)

I'll be interested in seeing whether things improve when universal remotes adopt voice control.
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post #31455 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:24 AM
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The Harmony remotes are programmed from a PC application. (You connect the remote to the PC using a USB cable.) I found it pretty straightforward. One peculiarity of the software is that it requires an internet connection to run. I guess that's due to Logitech maintaining an online archive of device codes. (The good news is that they have a lot of devices in their database.)

Someone else mentioned a feature of the 650/700 that some might find difficult. Depending on what "activity" is invoked, the remote may have to be kept pointed at the devices it's controlling for 15-20 seconds. That's a long time, in real life. Also, as it's IR, the devices must be close enough together that the beam covers them all. Maybe the "hub" type remotes would be better, but they are more expensive.

Also, there can be an issue for people who aren't tech savvy. If the wrong button is pressed on the remote, some may find it difficult to get it back in the correct mode.
The "Hub" remotes are programmed from a mobile device. The Hub needs a WiFi connection to retrieve firmware updates, and download the device database.


The hub needs to be placed where its emitted IR can be seen by all the IR devices. It also has IR blaster output jacks on it, to run to harder to reach devices. It also has Bluetooth, and can control devices over WiFi, and has a USB port to function as a keyboard/mouse for PCs. The handheld remote (or app on your phone) then talks to the hub, and the hub talks to the devices. Complex activities still take time to run, but after you've pressed the button, you can put the remote down.


The 950, and the App show the current state the Hub believes things are in, and that makes fixing things easier. (Like if you started the Watch Smart TV activity, but had a cup in the way of your AVR's IR port, so it didn't turned on.) The cheaper remote doesn't have a display, so you can't tell what state things are in, and individually adjust devices. But you can still turn everything off, and try the activity again. (Most devices have discrete on and off commands, not just the power toggle. So when you hit Off, you don't turn on already off devices like would happen with a normal remote.)
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post #31456 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:27 AM
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Also, there can be an issue for people who aren't tech savvy. If the wrong button is pressed on the remote, some may find it difficult to get it back in the correct mode.
There is always a simple way around this. (Yes, I've hit the wrong button before; and/or a device didn't do what it was suppose to)

Press the "OFF" button on the remote; THEN, if needed, manually TURN OFF ALL devices that didn't turn off. No need to turn off devices like Roku and Apple tv that are always on.

Then, simply push the activity button again on the remote that you want. All is well.

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post #31457 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:36 AM
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B7A 65 inch

Sorry to bring this up again but wondering if anyone has a similar setup and can explain the SDR settings to me.

Essentially I run a windows 10 based media center PC and Kodi through a Denon AVR. I use MadVR to play 4k HDR remuxes and can confirm they look identical (and fantastic) to playing the same file from the thumb drive connected directly to the usb port on the LG tv using the internal video player.

I find that leaving the HDR option "on" in windows 10 makes my SDR content look better. The colors are slightly more vivid and the overall picture is nice and bright!

I use technicolor preset (switch to game mode when on the ps4)

Everything I hear online is that when in HDR mode, SDR content looks dim and terrible. Just the opposite for me! SDR just looks a hair more vivid and brighter. Is running HDR all the time going to kill my OLED?

THanks!
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post #31458 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:36 AM
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So i'm sure this has been beaten to death, but just wondering what people are using for their UHD blu ray player (HDR) settings for Trumotion/ real cinema

LG OLED B7A 65"
Philips BDP7501 UHD Blu Ray player
Apple TV4
Onkyo TX-SR606
Harmony Elite
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post #31459 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:41 AM
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There is always a simple way around this. (Yes, I've hit the wrong button before; and/or a device didn't do what it was suppose to)

Press the "OFF" button on the remote; THEN, if needed, manually TURN OFF ALL devices that didn't turn off. No need to turn off devices like Roku and Apple tv that are always on.

Then, simply push the activity button again on the remote that you want. All is well.
Simple, yes. Probably obvious to anyone who understands what the Harmony is doing.

It wouldn't have been simple enough for my late father, who I could never teach to operate a DVD player. (Switching TV inputs was the sticking point, even though his Toshiba TV had an onscreen display that showed which input was active.) I left written instructions. Didn't help. Technophobes tend to give up before they start, as they are afraid of getting confused or frustrated. It may not have helped that my Dad retired in 1984. GUIs were not common in those days.
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post #31460 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:52 AM
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Simple, yes. Probably obvious to anyone who understands what the Harmony is doing.

It wouldn't have been simple enough for my late father, who I could never teach to operate a DVD player. (Switching TV inputs was the sticking point, even though his Toshiba TV had an onscreen display that showed which input was active.) I left written instructions. Didn't help. Technophobes tend to give up before they start, as they are afraid of getting confused or frustrated. It may not have helped that my Dad retired in 1984. GUIs were not common in those days.
Totally agree. My wife is very "Technically Challenged". The worst part is; she doesn't want to learn new technical things. That's why for her, I use the harmony 650. All she has to know are 3 buttons. Once I get rid of satellite tv, I'll set up the bedroom with ONLY the Roku Remote. It turns on tv and does volume. The roku is on all the time, and she knows how to navigate those channels.

FWIW: She called me at work one time saying how she pushed remote buttons and everything is messed up and didn't work. My answer was simple:
"Read a book. I'll be home after work and take care of it".

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post #31461 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 10:55 AM
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Simple, yes. Probably obvious to anyone who understands what the Harmony is doing.

It wouldn't have been simple enough for my late father, who I could never teach to operate a DVD player. (Switching TV inputs was the sticking point, even though his Toshiba TV had an onscreen display that showed which input was active.) I left written instructions. Didn't help. Technophobes tend to give up before they start, as they are afraid of getting confused or frustrated. It may not have helped that my Dad retired in 1984. GUIs were not common in those days.
I think this is very true. I am surrounded with people who have issues with their PCs and I am constantly called upon to sort out software issues which are preventing them using their machines.
I always explain how a disc image will sort out these software issues and I offer to show them how to make an image and how to restore it. To date not one single person has taken me up on the offer and I am now at the stage where I have got several people's disk images stored away (in duplicate) for the next time that person has an unresponsive PC.

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post #31462 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:18 AM
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Well now with Simplink turned OFF I’m not getting sound when I watch Apple TV (probably not other devices, ATV is what I checked first).

Simplink/CEC was causing problems last night so I turned it off. How can I keep it off but still get sound through AVR/other devices?

Sorry I’m a dummy with connections and settings. Thanks!
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post #31463 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:23 AM
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Well now with Simplink turned OFF I’m not getting sound when I watch Apple TV (probably not other devices, ATV is what I checked first).

Simplink/CEC was causing problems last night so I turned it off. How can I keep it off but still get sound through AVR/other devices?

Sorry I’m a dummy with connections and settings. Thanks!

simplink is required for ARC. You might be able to turn off power control on some devices, or input switching control, but if you turn of CEC (simplink) completely then you can't have ARC.
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post #31464 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:29 AM
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simplink is required for ARC. You might be able to turn off power control on some devices, or input switching control, but if you turn of CEC (simplink) completely then you can't have ARC.

Hmm not sure what to do. It took me forever to get my setup just right. My Denon 1100 doesn’t support DV so I’m using a workaround so it will pass through.

The way it’s set up I can get DV while watching the TV of course, the ATV, and my 4k player.

If this random HDMI switching of inputs continues while watching a movie, and I have to turn off Simplink, I’m not sure what to do to get DV and audio playing everywhere.

Suggestions?
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post #31465 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:37 AM
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You can try this HDMI adapter that does not pass CEC



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Lindy HDMI CEC Less Adapter


I had issues with my Roku triggering input change and this solved my issue.
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post #31466 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:43 AM
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Hmm not sure what to do. It took me forever to get my setup just right. My Denon 1100 doesn’t support DV so I’m using a workaround so it will pass through.

The way it’s set up I can get DV while watching the TV of course, the ATV, and my 4k player.

If this random HDMI switching of inputs continues while watching a movie, and I have to turn off Simplink, I’m not sure what to do to get DV and audio playing everywhere.

Suggestions?
Well some people are using dongles on the HDMI connections so other devices except the connection from the TV to the AVR that disconnects the CEC pins. That way only the connection from the AVR to the TV has CEC enabled and can do ARC, while no other device can report power state changes or anything else that could cause input switching.

Something like https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-HDMI-Ad.../dp/B00DL48KVI (although there must be much cheaper sources out there).


So essentially for any device that you can't disable CEC (other than the AVR and TV that needs it on), you would add such a CEC removal device.


I haven't tried such things because for some reason CEC is actually working well in my setup, much to my surprise.
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post #31467 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:46 AM
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Finally got my Apple TV 4k today from the Direct TV now deal. It's pretty nifty, and already I have about 20 movies that have upgraded to 4k digital.

Hilariously, the only thing that doesn't work right is the Direct TV now app. No sound

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post #31468 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:50 AM
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Looks like both of you posted the same item. Thanks!

I’m not sure what you put those on (which HDMI cables). All of them?
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post #31469 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick22 View Post
Looks like both of you posted the same item. Thanks!

I’m not sure what you put those on (which HDMI cables). All of them?

You can put on either end of HDMI cable of "offending" device. I put mine on the output of my Roku.
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post #31470 of 36403 Old 07-20-2018, 11:58 AM
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So I was just testing out another movie (4k this time). Simplink is ON now.

It took about 20 minutes before the TV switched HDMI inputs randomly. The movie kept playing but check out the pic



What is going on?

I put it back to the proper HDMI input on the TV, it was fine, and when I stopped the movie it switched HDMI inputs again!

Any ideas? Thanks!
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