2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1115 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #33421 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 04:34 AM
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Submitted the Bug to LG Switzerland, you might want to do the same in your region for a faster fix.
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post #33422 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joaomconde View Post
Hi guys, im having troubles configuring my TV with sonoftumble settings. and it only happens when im using the nvidia shield to play media.



For example,when playing hdr content via netflix on the shield, in HDR settings, i can configure everything well except dynamic contrast (is OFF greyed out) and real cinema (off greyed out).



What should I do on the shield or the TV to get this fixed? Can someone help me?

(TV-last Firmware, shield- 4k, 60hz, rec2020)


What picture mode are you using? If you configure it for PC input then all those are locked out.

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post #33423 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cmdrdredd View Post
What picture mode are you using? If you configure it for PC input then all those are locked out.
using hdr technicolor expert.

one thing i noticed, the TV sees the signal as PCM. dont know if it has anything to do with that but i think would be good to share
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post #33424 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundizer17 View Post
Here is a link to the PDF document LG has published.

https://media.flixcar.com/f360cdn/LG...G_OLED_TVs.pdf

My interpretation is that to enable it you should turn OFF and to disable/bypass it you turn ON.
There is no reference in the paragraph to this being for SDR or HDR only, so I don’t understand how that has been referenced by some.

I don’t like unnecessary processing as the TV has enough to do already during Picture Processing so i want this feature disabled. That is why I turned it ON.
Too many misquotes or assumptions, then toss in the 2016 issues of 0 sharpness actually softening the image (the 2017's do not have that issue).

From LG, "The ‘Edge Enhancer’ setting in the Expert Picture Mode Settings does not increase sharpness; the default ‘On’ setting is a bypass function, and is therefore recommended"

Recommended if you want to use the sharpness control.

It is quite simple. "Edge Enhancer" is a bypass function, yes. When ON, it allows the sharpness setting to be applied, and when it is OFF, the sharpness setting does nothing. Test it.

If you are a purist, set sharpness to O, and turn "Edge Enhancer" OFF.
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post #33425 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by yukon View Post
So I just thought about something. When I have PC input selected does that automatically send 4:4:4 signal? Maybe I need to get out of PC input mode to send 4:2:0 signal to my TV. Maybe use Game Console then send the 4:2:0. I hope I'm saying this where everyone understands what I'm saying.




I guess what i'm asking is if I set my INPUT on the tv to PC MODE does this send 4:4:4 automatically or do I have to go into Nvidia settings and send 4:4:4
Sure, always start with the output first. But, refer to the HDMI spec, https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hd...0_faq.aspx#146

You have to balance your preferences: frame rate vs number of colors (8-10-12 bit), vs subsampling (420,422,444). Your TV is capable of 10 bit color.

Also, understand your subsampling choices: http://www.muratdemirci.com.tr/image...NDARY_1(1).png

HDMI 2.0b can not send 'maximum everything', so you have to choose what works best and looks best to you, and you may prefer something different for movies vs games. I have seen other people online who also only have 8 or 12 bit options for 420, but that's for someone else to address.
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post #33426 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cathodeRay View Post
Sure, always start with the output first. But, refer to the HDMI spec, https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hd...0_faq.aspx#146

You have to balance your preferences: frame rate vs number of colors (8-10-12 bit), vs subsampling (420,422,444). Your TV is capable of 10 bit color.

Also, understand your subsampling choices: http://www.muratdemirci.com.tr/image...NDARY_1(1).png

HDMI 2.0b can not send 'maximum everything', so you have to choose what works best and looks best to you, and you may prefer something different for movies vs games. I have seen other people online who also only have 8 or 12 bit options for 420, but that's for someone else to address.
Thanks for the reply's. I do understand all the HDMI limitations and with my equipment and setup I am in check with what I'm trying to accomplish. That is really what I was trying to figure out is why I do not have the 4:2:0 10-bit option. All I have is 12-bit. And if 4:2:0 12-bit will accomplish the same thing as 4:2:0 10-bit then I am cool with that. These are just questions I couldn't answer.
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post #33427 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yukon View Post
Thanks for the reply's. I do understand all the HDMI limitations and with my equipment and setup I am in check with what I'm trying to accomplish. That is really what I was trying to figure out is why I do not have the 4:2:0 10-bit option. All I have is 12-bit. And if 4:2:0 12-bit will accomplish the same thing as 4:2:0 10-bit then I am cool with that. These are just questions I couldn't answer.
Hopefully one of the pros here will comment on that, I have seen many people online with that same question/issue. My guess is that even though the HDMI 2.0b spec allows it, either older HDMI 2.0/2.0a spes did not allow it or some graphics card and console makers did not choose to implement that option.

Blu-ray supports 8 bit color, HDR10 supports to 10 bit color, Dolby Vision supports 12 bit color. Games are no more than 10 bit since there are no DV games yet and gamers often prefer 60 Hz. over maximum color/detail. Can you get 444 8 bit?

I see many gamers choose 8 bit over 12 bit, assuming the graphics card will upconvert to 12 bit, to reduce "extra" processing time of the signal (noticeable lag effect?), assuming there are no issues with color banding, etc.
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post #33428 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
HDR Technicolor Expert on PC Input has Dynamic Contrast options OFF and greyed out, so with no Active HDR (no Dynamic Tone Mapping) and no contrast enhancements . This unfortunately results in a much more dimmer image compared to HDR Standard that, if adjusted, can provide much better results overall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joaomconde View Post
Hi guys, im having troubles configuring my TV with sonoftumble settings. and it only happens when im using the nvidia shield to play media.

For example,when playing hdr content via netflix on the shield, in HDR settings, i can configure everything well except dynamic contrast (is OFF greyed out) and real cinema (off greyed out).

What should I do on the shield or the TV to get this fixed? Can someone help me?
(TV-last Firmware, shield- 4k, 60hz, rec2020)
Maybe you can help @P40L0 as i seem to be having what you describe, and yes, i note a much more dimmer image (to the point it becomes unwatchable) than what would be supposed.

Should the nvidia shield be set to HDR standard instead of technicolor expert? If yes, what picture setting should I use? the same?
Or should I disable PC input for the shield and keep it on technicolor expert?
Sorry for all these questions but im really confused
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post #33429 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 11:47 AM
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This with colors washed out of the last update that is their mistake, but I'm just wondering if it will correct it? It's totally crazy that the previous version can not be backed up. Can I send the TV to the service for this?
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post #33430 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 12:02 PM
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I suspect I'm not the only person who has updated and doesn't have this issue unless we are talking about something unique to PC or a Shield as a source. If this was widespread, the thread would be a lot more active.
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post #33431 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudonja View Post
This with colors washed out of the last update that is their mistake, but I'm just wondering if it will correct it? It's totally crazy that the previous version can not be backed up. Can I send the TV to the service for this?
I have this with my TV Box from UPC (a new 4k tv reception box, similar to the Virgin V6 in the UK). For a temporary fix, I've now switched the TV Box to 1080p instead of 4k, colors are ok now.
Other sources, like my Xbox One S do not show this.
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post #33432 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 01:45 PM
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Update on the burn-in test from https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real...d-burn-in-test

CURRENT STANCE (11/05/2018 - 5371 HOURS)
After more than 5000 hours, there has been no appreciable change to the brightness or color gamut of these TVs. Long periods of static content have resulted in some permanent burn-in (see the CNN TVs), however the other TVs with more varied content don't yet have noticeable uniformity issues on normal content. As a result, we don't expect most people who watch varied content without static areas to experience burn-in issues with an OLED TV. Those who display the same static content over long periods of time should consider the risk of burn-in though (such as those who watch lots of news, use the TV as a PC monitor, or play the same game with a bright static HUD). Those who are concerned about the risk of burn-in should go with an LCD TV for the peace of mind.

Note that we expect burn-in to depend on a few factors:

The total duration of static content. LG has told us that they expect it to be cumulative, so static content which is present for 30 minutes twice a day is equivalent to one hour of static content once per day.
The brightness of the static content. Our maximum brightness CNN TV has more severe burn-in than our 200 nits brightness CNN TV.
The colors of the static areas. We found that in our 20/7 Burn-in Test the red sub-pixel is the fastest to degrade, followed by blue and then green.
To see how the results at this 5000 hour point compares to your usage, divide 5000 by the number of hours you watch each type of content per day to find the number of days. For example, someone who plays call of duty or another video game without bright static areas for 2 hours per day may expect similar results after about 2500 days of usage. This corresponds to about 7 years.

We will continue to run this test and collect data, and our stance may change as we obtain more information.

https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real...d-burn-in-test
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post #33433 of 35713 Old 11-08-2018, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joaomconde View Post
Maybe you can help @P40L0 as i seem to be having what you describe, and yes, i note a much more dimmer image (to the point it becomes unwatchable) than what would be supposed.

Should the nvidia shield be set to HDR standard instead of technicolor expert? If yes, what picture setting should I use? the same?
Or should I disable PC input for the shield and keep it on technicolor expert?
Sorry for all these questions but im really confused
When using PC Input (to achieve low input lag on any mode) choose HDR Standard for gaming (lowering its Color to 44, Color Temp to 49 and Brightness to 49).

Outside PC Input, use HDR Technicolor Expert with Dynamic Contrast set to Low (this enabling Active HDR) to have an even better image for movies.
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post #33434 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 03:40 AM
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I had my E7 calibrated a week ago however I have just noticed that for dolby vision calibration you are supposed to upload a file to the TV using USB and he never did that and just used 2 point calibration for Dolby Vision with just +2 green.

Should I be concerned he didn't actually calibrate Dolby Vision correctly?
He had the correct meter and pattern generators and was using calman 5 that other calibrators use but like I said he never once uploaded anything to the TV via USB even though me and my wife watched him.
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post #33435 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rick1011 View Post
I had my E7 calibrated a week ago however I have just noticed that for dolby vision calibration you are supposed to upload a file to the TV using USB and he never did that and just used 2 point calibration for Dolby Vision with just +2 green.

Should I be concerned he didn't actually calibrate Dolby Vision correctly?
He had the correct meter and pattern generators and was using calman 5 that other calibrators use but like I said he never once uploaded anything to the TV via USB even though me and my wife watched him.

Who did your calibration, did they provide you with before and after measurements/graphs for the modes they did calibrate?

There is no perfect display, quit looking for faults and enjoy

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post #33436 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 08:21 AM
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LGC7 Oled Black low/high - RGB limited/full Setting.

In videogames/youtube and or Windows mediaplayer etc.

In Nvidia control panel, If I put in RGB limited with black level high my tv will look a bit more greyish .(testing with a universe galaxy background on windows with clouds and blacks.

It is said you should pair settings. so low should be limited, and high should be full. However that doesn't seem to matter, as soon as I put "blacks on high" Then no matter if I use limited or RGB in Nvidia control panel. the screen will look more greyish.

So then I kept testing: RGB to FULL in nvidia control panel and Black level low on tv I seem to get the most deepest black on screen. A vague space cloud that was visible before on black level low- rgb limited is now entirely not visible.

However whenever black high is turned on, then that vague space cloud that was somewhat visible with the low black level and limited rgb, is clearly visible among other things on screen. It's a big difference.

So I test with this video:

With black level high, (on any RGB setting) I can see more what is going on, more of the scene. but it looks more greyish/dull to me.

If I turn on Black Low with RGB Full. Things are PITCH black. and I think it looks way better.

But this shouldn't be the case.. as they should match from everything I read. Maybe it just depends on taste, or it depends on various scenes but idk..

Also have to note that on high blacks I can see a grey tint in chrome URL bar, and greytint around google search button. which seem to dissappear on black low. This happens only when RGB= Full on RGB limited a similiar thing happens but not nearly to the extent as on RGB Full. the grey is still visible with RGB limited+ Black high for example.

What do you guys think?

Last edited by Christian van Offeren; 11-09-2018 at 08:39 AM.
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post #33437 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick1011 View Post
I had my E7 calibrated a week ago however I have just noticed that for dolby vision calibration you are supposed to upload a file to the TV using USB and he never did that and just used 2 point calibration for Dolby Vision with just +2 green.

Should I be concerned he didn't actually calibrate Dolby Vision correctly?
He had the correct meter and pattern generators and was using calman 5 that other calibrators use but like I said he never once uploaded anything to the TV via USB even though me and my wife watched him.
That is the first thing a calibrator does, update the TV, unless you said not to.

Last edited by Cleveland Plasma; 11-10-2018 at 07:43 AM.
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post #33438 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
When using PC Input (to achieve low input lag on any mode) choose HDR Standard for gaming (lowering its Color to 44, Color Temp to 49 and Brightness to 49).

Outside PC Input, use HDR Technicolor Expert with Dynamic Contrast set to Low (this enabling Active HDR) to have an even better image for movies.
I was finally able to update my C7's firmware to start playing around with the PC input. I'm pretty pleased with the results when using my calibrated ISF Dark mode over Game. I'll just have to trust that there's no additional input lag there.

I do have to say that I tried your HDR Standard settings, and while it is significantly brighter (which is good, no doubt), it just blows out way too much detail in the highlights, even on those games that allow for greater in game calibration. Given that one of the benefits of HDR is a wider variation in contrast, and greater detail in both shadow and highlights, it seems kind of "wrong" to sacrifice half of that additional detail for greater overall brightness. The loss of detail was shocking.

I'm likely to settle on using my calibrated Cinema (User) for HDR gaming. It's certainly not as bright as Standard, but the image is significantly more detailed, and the color should be more accurate considering the calibration for my panel.
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post #33439 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 08:37 AM
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If you set your TV to low and send full range RGB, you are going to be crushing a whole lot of detail. Check out the AVSHD black clipping pattern.

Don't set your GPU to limited - Windows works in full range RGB, and the GPU would then compress this to limited range and introduce banding. You don't want this. For PC use, RGB 0-255 and TV black level high is correct.
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post #33440 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by iSeries View Post
If you set your TV to low and send full range RGB, you are going to be crushing a whole lot of detail. Check out the AVSHD black clipping pattern.

Don't set your GPU to limited - Windows works in full range RGB, and the GPU would then compress this to limited range and introduce banding. You don't want this. For PC use, RGB 0-255 and TV black level high is correct.

Okay.. uhh but if I choose FULL RANGE RGB + highs.. it looks all so "greyish"

I can get the you would be losing a bit of detail. but if you look at the video in the first post with the cars. Idk. it looks more cleaner with Black level low. Same for Windows background.. Or maybe im just nuts..
Ill check out and see if I can find out more about this "AVSHD black clipping pattern."

For example this video:

If i go with RGB FULL+ Black level low I get deep blacks. i see a little bit greyish in the white. almost not noticable.
Now if I put it to RGB FULL+ Black level high, suddenly I see a more pronounced grey in the white, and it turns out it's a horizontal bar actually going through the blacks.
Thus certain black parts of the bar, are now less black and more greyish.

I assume I want to go with the first setting? RGB Full+ Black level low. for deepest black. And I will miss some grey in scenes?

And what do people mean with "crushed blacks"
Is that when blacks are "greyish"?

EDIT:

Hmm

With
Default color settings - black low 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars
Default color settings - black high 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars but more pronounced and the entire scene is way more gray and because of this gray the colours seem less noticable
RGB Full Range- Black low True black. no bars visible.
RGB Full Range- Black high 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars
RGB limited Range- Black low 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars
RGB limited Range- Black high 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars but more pronounced and the entire scene is way more gray and because of this gray the colours seem less noticable
YCbCR422 10 bit Limited- Black low 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars
YCbCR422 10 bit Limited- Black high 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars but more pronounced and the entire scene is way more gray and because of this gray the colours seem less noticable

YCbCR Seems to have the best actual colour of the colour bars in 18-25.


https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7-oled/settings

"Set the 'Black Level' to 'Low' to match our source 'Output Dynamic Range'. If you are not sure if you have the good setting, when set wrong, blacks will look grayish instead of really deep blacks."

This is my experience. No matter if RGB is limited or full. High black. is grayish black..

So idk....

Last edited by Christian van Offeren; 11-09-2018 at 09:16 AM.
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post #33441 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 09:54 AM
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Just downloaded - fast - no problems!

MR reflects (05.80.04)

- Netflix related optimization
- Network - Selectable IPv6 connection on / off in wireless connection setting
- Other bug fix
the web site actually says IPv6 connection feature on/off can be selected from Network/Wired Connection settings. Do I leave that on or off? I'm currently connected via ethernet cable (wired)

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"RGB Full Range- Black low True black. no bars visible." - this is the expected outcome and is of course incorrect as all those near black levels 17-25 are crushed.

"RGB Full Range- Black high 18-25 visible they appear as somewhat different colors bars " - this is correct.

Don't set your GPU to limited for the reason given above.

All you need to do is make sure your media player is outputting in full range (I recommend MPC-BE with MadVR), set GPU to 0-255, and black level on TV to high.

Start with the second post here from the author of MadVR:

https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=146228

And also here from the author of LAVFilters

http://forum.doom9.net/showthread.php?p=1678269

Last edited by iSeries; 11-09-2018 at 11:43 AM.
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post #33443 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 10:28 AM
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the web site actually says IPv6 connection feature on/off can be selected from Network/Wired Connection settings. Do I leave that on or off? I'm currently connected via ethernet cable (wired)


Should be on unless you are experiencing troubles.
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post #33444 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 11:21 AM
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Should be on unless you are experiencing troubles.
thank you.

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post #33445 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick1011 View Post
I had my E7 calibrated a week ago however I have just noticed that for dolby vision calibration you are supposed to upload a file to the TV using USB and he never did that and just used 2 point calibration for Dolby Vision with just +2 green.

Should I be concerned he didn't actually calibrate Dolby Vision correctly?
He had the correct meter and pattern generators and was using calman 5 that other calibrators use but like I said he never once uploaded anything to the TV via USB even though me and my wife watched him.
Starting about a year ago, Spectracal released a version of Calman in which they added a custom Dolby Vision workflow specifically for the 2017 "7" series LG OLED's. That workflow encourages the calibrator to make White Balance adjustments to both the 2 and 20 point settings. The goal is to flatten out the gamma response to 2.2. After you finish with that process, the workflow runs a series of color patterns and then creates a file that matches the White Balance settings to a color profile based on those settings. You then load the file to the TV via USB.
It takes quite a bit of time to get the gamma response to a flat 2.2 but definitely worth it in terms of picture quality.

If you click on the LG OLED link in my signature it will take you to my settings post where you will be able to see how much adjusting was made to my C7 to get Dolby Vision looking "normal". This is what should have been done with your calibration.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #33446 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 01:09 PM
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If I uploaded the new DV profile to my C7. Will that always be there even after a factory reset?
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post #33447 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by yukon View Post
If I uploaded the new DV profile to my C7. Will that always be there even after a factory reset?
I have a special file with instructions that will force the TV to reload the factory version if you decide you don't like it. Otherwise, yes - it would still be there even after a factory reset.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #33448 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian van Offeren View Post
Okay.. uhh but if I choose FULL RANGE RGB + highs.. it looks all so "greyish"

I can get the you would be losing a bit of detail. but if you look at the video in the first post with the cars. Idk. it looks more cleaner with Black level low. Same for Windows background.. Or maybe im just nuts..
Ill check out and see if I can find out more about this "AVSHD black clipping pattern."

For example this video:
Videos are normally encoded with limited range. Let's say your video player pass this video out as is. The display driver will then send that limited range video out to the TV without transforming the range, and the image will appear washed out.

To clarify further, the video color range would be let's say between 16 - 239, where 16 is true black and 239 is true white. The display driver acting in full-range mode will pass the value 16 as is to the TV, but the TV is on full-range where 0 is true black, and hence 16 will appear greyish.

Now in the above example (full range display driver - TV black level high), if you set the TV black level low, the video stream coming from the video player and passing through the graphic driver (untransformed with a range 16-239) will show correctly on the TV. However now your games will have crushed black, because games will send full range 0-255, but the TV in limited range will throw away 16 darkest shades of black and very dark gray (16) will appear black.

Keep in mind that full or limited range in PC graphic driver only impacts the stream going to the display - full range is sent as is, where as limited transforms a range of 0-255 to 16-239.

The best solution is to have the video player expand the video bits to full range. So the video content would expand from 16-239 to 0-255, and then the full range display driver will output to the TV and everything will look right. Look at the settings of the video player and there should be an option like that. PC games however output full-range RGB, so you should not see any problem there with your existing setting.

Finally, you may be thinking what happens if you set your display driver to limited and also TV to black level low. In such case, the video player will output 16-239, but the display driver will further compress where 16-239 becomes 28-227, and now while the TV in limited mode expects true black at 16, it'll show 28 (which was originally 16) as washed out - same as first example but for slightly different reason. Expanding the video range in the video player will help here as well. So a range of 16-239 becomes 0-255, which the graphic driver in limited range mode compresses back to 16-239, and which the TV in black level low mode shows correctly. The two levels of transformation here aren't ideal though.

Hope I didn't cause more confusion with the convoluted explanations.

[Edit: I picked the range 16-239 somewhat arbitrarily to show the effects of limited range. The actual limited range may be a bit different]

Last edited by NomanA; 11-09-2018 at 03:46 PM.
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post #33449 of 35713 Old 11-09-2018, 06:31 PM
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Question

Hi, everyone. I haven't checked this thread in over a year and could really use some help.

I own a 55" B7 (OLED55B7P - but the Brazilian version, which has the stand of the OLED55B7V). The last time I was active on these forums (October 2017), some major issues were being discussed regarding HDR on the 2017 LG OLEDs. Mainly, that it was broken when using "PC" as the input label, and too dim when using the "Game" picture mode combined with any other input label.

Now, it appears that both of those issues have been fixed, thanks to later revisions of the firmware. So, before updating mine, I'd like to ask a few questions. First, about the firmware. Then, about the recommended settings concerning the color format, color depth and dynamic range for different devices and media.


A - Firmware

  1. What's the latest version? I'm still on 04.70.75, and that's the latest one available for me OTA.

B - PC (gaming in [email protected]/HDR and SDR)

  1. Should I select PC as the input label on the TV, if HDR has been truly fixed for that?
  2. Regardless of the HDR fix, should I still choose PC as the input label or a different one and select the Game picture mode for low input latency?
  3. What settings should I choose on Nvidia Control Panel (I own a 1080 Ti) for color format (RGB or YCbCr - and if the latter, which one), color depth (8, 10 or 12bpc) and dynamic range (Full or Limited)?

C - Xbox One X (gaming in [email protected]/HDR and SDR)

  1. What is the best combination of input label and picture mode for SDR and HDR gaming?
  2. Full RGB color space has been broken on Xbox One since launch, and that still seems to be the case on the Xbox One X. Should I still choose Standard for Color Space, instead of PC RGB, even if the TV is set to Full/High?
  3. What about color depth? Should it be 8, 10 or 12-bit?

D - PS4 Pro (gaming in [email protected]/HDR and SDR)

  1. Again, which input label and picture mode combination should I select for gaming (both in SDR and HDR)?
  2. Which 4K resolution setting is the best one? 2160p - YUV420 or 2160p - RGB?
  3. Unlike the Xbox One, the PS4 has never had issues with crushed blacks, so RGB range should always be set to Full on the console, and Black Level set to High on the TV?

E - Nvidia Shield TV (watching HDR and SDR movies/TV shows in 4K)

  1. Same as before: PC input label or something else in conjunction with the technicolor Expert picture mode (my preferred one)?
  2. Which of the many color space options is recommended? RGB or one of the YUV options?
  3. Depending on what's selected for the previous choice, dynamic range becomes greyed out/unchangeable. What's the best option (considering the TV's Black Level set to either Low or High)?

I divided my questions into items because I realize not everyone uses all of those devices, or for the same purposes. My PC and game consoles are used pretty much exclusively for gaming, while the Nvidia Shield is used solely for watching movies and TV shows.

I'd really appreciate hearing your opinions regarding any of those subjects. Thanks in advance!
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Last edited by EeK9X; 11-09-2018 at 06:39 PM.
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post #33450 of 35713 Old 11-10-2018, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Reflex-Arc View Post
I was finally able to update my C7's firmware to start playing around with the PC input. I'm pretty pleased with the results when using my calibrated ISF Dark mode over Game. I'll just have to trust that there's no additional input lag there.

I do have to say that I tried your HDR Standard settings, and while it is significantly brighter (which is good, no doubt), it just blows out way too much detail in the highlights, even on those games that allow for greater in game calibration. Given that one of the benefits of HDR is a wider variation in contrast, and greater detail in both shadow and highlights, it seems kind of "wrong" to sacrifice half of that additional detail for greater overall brightness. The loss of detail was shocking.

I'm likely to settle on using my calibrated Cinema (User) for HDR gaming. It's certainly not as bright as Standard, but the image is significantly more detailed, and the color should be more accurate considering the calibration for my panel.
To me seems more "wrong" always having an overall dark/dim picture with only the sunny sky bright enough.
Having an overall correctly bright picture with only the sunny sky and other super bright light sources clipped seems a more logical compromise to me, and an even more realistic one if you live without sun glasses on all the time as you should do...

That said, anyone can prefer and stick to what they want of course.
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