2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1122 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #33631 of 35896 Old 11-20-2018, 11:12 PM
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Something that crossed my mind prior to me calling in for service after the holidays. Can a 2018 panel be swapped out with a 2017 panel. I ask this as my warranty will cover repairs, Yet if the TV is replaced in it's entirety (say a C8) that would end warranty. But if a new panel 2017, or say a 2018 panel is used it's essentially the same set and as such my warranty will continue.

Anyone have any idea if a 2018 panel will work on a 2017?.. and if so what if any pluses would that entail. Have a great holiday.

LG C7 65"|Xbox One X|PS4 Pro|Nvidia Shield

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post #33632 of 35896 Old 11-20-2018, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by sbrentn View Post
I received the same thing in my email. Funny thing though, when I went to https://lg.yourserviceplan.com/prese...ayer/home.aspx and entered in my OLED info manually, more extended warranty options became available....and they were all cheaper than quoted with my "personal invitation code"! Don't buy with your invitation code...go and see what is available to you through that link!
Wow! My quote for my B7 was $34.99 for a one year extension, $70.99 for two years and $171.99 for three! Not bad! Thanks for the link and info!
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post #33633 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 04:52 AM
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Hey all. I just received my B7 a couple of days ago. I had ordered the B8 from a local shop for a great deal, but when they delivered the TV it was the B7. After setting everything up I saw the invoice and realized it was the wrong TV. I mentioned it to the employee (I have a strong feeling it was an actual employee cause this is something they do to get rid of old stock). I told him I ordered the B8 and he gave me the option of doing that, or keeping the B7 for a significant discount.

So my question is, with a B7 for an amazing deal did I make the right choice, or is the B8 enough of an upgrade that I should have sent it back?
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post #33634 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
For those who asked, I updated the LG 2017 OLEDs Calibrated Settings for X1X (and for Gaming in general) adding Option 1 and Option 2 for both SDR/HDR:


Please also note that:
  • If you prefer Option 2 ("non-PC"), remember to adjust again all in-game HDR sliders around 4.000 nits when possible (or re-hide in-game logos);
  • Both SDR/HDR Option 2 ("non-PC") profiles' Sharpness is now set to 20 as, differently than Technicolor/ISF, 20 is its neutral value instead of 10;
  • HDR Game Color of Option 2 ("non-PC") is back to its default of 65 instead of 55 as, differently than Technicolor, 65 is the color match between those profiles
  • HDR Game Dynamic Contrast of Option 2 ("non-PC") is back to MEDIUM for the best accuracy/luminance ratio.
Don't know why my post got deleted yesterday because it pertained to the LG C7 settings you guys posted.. Let me try this again.. If I'm not following rules please let me know...

Anyway I was asking on the C7 when you are working with HDR10 content should the Color be set to WIDE or AUTO? I have seen different calibrators do this both ways. Is one or wrong right? Or does it matter?

thanks...
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post #33635 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argyle Shepard View Post
Hey all. I just received my B7 a couple of days ago. I had ordered the B8 from a local shop for a great deal, but when they delivered the TV it was the B7. After setting everything up I saw the invoice and realized it was the wrong TV. I mentioned it to the employee (I have a strong feeling it was an actual employee cause this is something they do to get rid of old stock). I told him I ordered the B8 and he gave me the option of doing that, or keeping the B7 for a significant discount.

So my question is, with a B7 for an amazing deal did I make the right choice, or is the B8 enough of an upgrade that I should have sent it back?


Imo, I think you made the right choice. The B8 doesn’t have enough to justify extra cost imo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #33636 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 07:05 AM
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Finally!

So, I'd been waiting about 4 weeks without a functional TV - but I finally got a replacement Display Panel for my 65B7A. It went on there was a lot of drama, it went on backorder and then finally arrived. Service guy installed yesterday and this one works - let me tell you, it's been rough without a tv in our living room for so long!

Even though it's a happy ending, I was rather unhappy with LG's customer service. My original issue started on 9/23 and because of the delays with their replacement parts (and sending defective parts) my TV wasn't fixed until 11/20 (and almost 4 weeks without a working TV). LG refused to replace my TV (cost of panel to Service Center, btw, cost over $2000, Main board about $300 and power supply price unknown - didn't ask). They literally spent more to replace parts and pay the service center than it would have been to give me a new OLED TV.

When this panel went on backorder, I immediately contacted LG Support through twitter (I didn't want to deal with phone support as they were always unhelpful and borderline rude) and they direct messaged me within an hour (I was very surprised!). By the end of the business day, they'd magically found the panel and were shipping it same day (they said). I asked a few more questions about shipping and ETA and they went radio silent. Checked in the next day and sent them a message. Sent a message the next day. Another message the day after that, etc. Nothing. As of today, they never responded to any of the 8 messages I sent them after our initial conversation. I even messaged them multiple times just through standard twitter messages. No response. It's been 10 days. It doesn't matter at this point but that's really crappy customer service. (also, they sent the part out 6 days after they said they would)

The part was supposed to arrive on Friday, but didn't. I would say I was rather upset. Tracking, according to service center, showed no updates. I called LG, complained that being without a tv for so long has been unacceptable. They told me if they replaced my tv that it would take 3-4 weeks to approve - to just wait for the part. They extended my warranty for 3 months (I asked for some compensation) and basically told me to go kick rocks.

So, it's fixed! Panel seems okay and I didn't seen any visible banding...yet. But I haven't had too much time to really take a look in a controlled environment.
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post #33637 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ynnek63 View Post
Wow! My quote for my B7 was $34.99 for a one year extension, $70.99 for two years and $171.99 for three! Not bad! Thanks for the link and info!
Yeah, it's a bit deceptive that they send you a special discounted code and the prices are more expensive and some options aren't even available for purchase. Glad it worked out for you!!
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post #33638 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
These TV's are so close to perfect out of the box, that you might not notice much improvement to an SDR or HDR10 picture even after a pro calibration, EXCEPT for Dolby Vision. DV requires some serious adjustments to the 20 point in order to get it under control. You need calibration equipment to pull that off.

If your particular TV's panel has performance characteristics similar to mine, then my settings should improve your picture quality. Otherwise if your panel's variances are wider, it probably won't improve your picture or possibly make it worse.

Now that I have the standard disclaimer out of the way, here's something new to try.

The techs in our lab came across this VERY INTERESTING tidbit the other day . . .

For SDR and HDR10 signals, use the respective technicolor Expert picture modes, but change the color temp to Warm 1 instead of the Warm 2 default.

Why? When the color temp is set to Warm 2, the TV exhibits green bias out of the box. This is a bad thing for picture quality and color accuracy if green is dominant. Setting the color temp to Warm 1 corrects the green bias. If you had calibration equipment, you could correct the green bias and still use the Warm 2 color temp. But most of us don't, so it's simply better to go with Warm 1. Correcting green bias cannot be done with the naked eye and there are too many action/reaction behaviors with these types of adjustments.

All the other settings including white balance and CMS should stay zeroed out at default. Adjust the OLED LIGHT to your personal taste.

Feedback is always welcome.
Funny thing is when I first got the set I tried doing a provisional calibration using the Disney WOW disc. The only way I could get the colours and tint adjustments correct using the filter was by switching to Warm 1. I am going to go to Warm 1 for SDR and HDR10. I suspect sonoftumble will be providing us with updated calibrations for both in the near future.
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post #33639 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by yukon View Post
Don't know why my post got deleted yesterday because it pertained to the LG C7 settings you guys posted.. Let me try this again.. If I'm not following rules please let me know...

Anyway I was asking on the C7 when you are working with HDR10 content should the Color be set to WIDE or AUTO? I have seen different calibrators do this both ways. Is one or wrong right? Or does it matter?

thanks...
Auto Gamut is the most accurate setting for both SDR and HDR, but some profiles (as SDR Game) forces it to Wide, resulting in oversaturated colors (for SDR Game, lowering Color value to 40 overcomes this and brings back accuracy).
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post #33640 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by yukon View Post
Don't know why my post got deleted yesterday because it pertained to the LG C7 settings you guys posted.. Let me try this again.. If I'm not following rules please let me know...

Anyway I was asking on the C7 when you are working with HDR10 content should the Color be set to WIDE or AUTO? I have seen different calibrators do this both ways. Is one or wrong right? Or does it matter?

thanks...
I'm going to try your option 2 settings. I did your option 1 back when you first posted and I did get color banding so I shyed away. Thanks for all your time and effort in helping the community!!
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post #33641 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by yukon View Post
Don't know why my post got deleted yesterday because it pertained to the LG C7 settings you guys posted.. Let me try this again.. If I'm not following rules please let me know...

Anyway I was asking on the C7 when you are working with HDR10 content should the Color be set to WIDE or AUTO? I have seen different calibrators do this both ways. Is one or wrong right? Or does it matter?

thanks...
Set it to AUTO - ALWAYS USE AUTO. Setting it to WIDE activates LG's color embellishments, meaning they add colors that don't really exist in the source content metadata.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #33642 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 08:28 AM
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So I created a topic yesterday night and I went to check it this morning and it looks like it's gone, not sure what the deal with that is, maybe its frowned upon or something?

But anyways I absolutely love my B7 and was looking to pick up a B8 or C8 this year for the living room, however I have one nagging issue I am looking for some guidance one. I have Xfinity/Comcast and cable on this tv just looks brutal 99% of the time. I know cable is still broadcast in 720 most of the time, however in the Comcast settings I can up it to 1080p even though I heard that's fake. I am seeking some assistance on what I can do on my HDMI input 1 settings where I strictly just watch cable tv. The quality of broadcasts is just not good. It really bugs me when everything else from movies and games to youTube and Netflix all look pretty spectacular. I am a huge sports guy, hockey, football, baseball, WWE (lol) and anything with fast movements looks terrible. All cable that I watch doesn't have those sharp images with nice color popping, it just looks dull, dated, and fuzzy.

So basically I am looking to the AVS community for help. Ive searched google a ton but there is just so much information and contradicting stuff I don't know what to do. I am looking for some help specifically on what I should do settings wise on both the tv and Xfinity/Comcast to give me the best cable picture. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I love this tv but man cable is just brutal! (They really need to start upping the quality).

Thanks in advance!!!!
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post #33643 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ABeezy13 View Post
So I created a topic yesterday night and I went to check it this morning and it looks like it's gone, not sure what the deal with that is, maybe its frowned upon or something?

But anyways I absolutely love my B7 and was looking to pick up a B8 or C8 this year for the living room, however I have one nagging issue I am looking for some guidance one. I have Xfinity/Comcast and cable on this tv just looks brutal 99% of the time. I know cable is still broadcast in 720 most of the time, however in the Comcast settings I can up it to 1080p even though I heard that's fake. I am seeking some assistance on what I can do on my HDMI input 1 settings where I strictly just watch cable tv. The quality of broadcasts is just not good. It really bugs me when everything else from movies and games to youTube and Netflix all look pretty spectacular. I am a huge sports guy, hockey, football, baseball, WWE (lol) and anything with fast movements looks terrible. All cable that I watch doesn't have those sharp images with nice color popping, it just looks dull, dated, and fuzzy.

So basically I am looking to the AVS community for help. Ive searched google a ton but there is just so much information and contradicting stuff I don't know what to do. I am looking for some help specifically on what I should do settings wise on both the tv and Xfinity/Comcast to give me the best cable picture. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I love this tv but man cable is just brutal! (They really need to start upping the quality).

Thanks in advance!!!!
Must have been some forum issues, because I had the exact same thing happen. Made my post about 3pm yesterday.. Was gone this morning.... Cheers
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post #33644 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 08:36 AM
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Honestly, I just set my Xfinity 4k box to upscale everything to 4k and called it good. Most content looks terrible most of the time (except CW for some reason, that's pretty decent), but it is what it is on these sets. Garbage in, garbage out.
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post #33645 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ABeezy13 View Post
So I created a topic yesterday night and I went to check it this morning and it looks like it's gone, not sure what the deal with that is, maybe its frowned upon or something?

But anyways I absolutely love my B7 and was looking to pick up a B8 or C8 this year for the living room, however I have one nagging issue I am looking for some guidance one. I have Xfinity/Comcast and cable on this tv just looks brutal 99% of the time. I know cable is still broadcast in 720 most of the time, however in the Comcast settings I can up it to 1080p even though I heard that's fake. I am seeking some assistance on what I can do on my HDMI input 1 settings where I strictly just watch cable tv. The quality of broadcasts is just not good. It really bugs me when everything else from movies and games to youTube and Netflix all look pretty spectacular. I am a huge sports guy, hockey, football, baseball, WWE (lol) and anything with fast movements looks terrible. All cable that I watch doesn't have those sharp images with nice color popping, it just looks dull, dated, and fuzzy.

So basically I am looking to the AVS community for help. Ive searched google a ton but there is just so much information and contradicting stuff I don't know what to do. I am looking for some help specifically on what I should do settings wise on both the tv and Xfinity/Comcast to give me the best cable picture. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I love this tv but man cable is just brutal! (They really need to start upping the quality).

Thanks in advance!!!!
I have directv but im guessing this will help you too. Make your cable box display the native signal instead of 1080p. The extra processing screws up the image.
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post #33646 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 08:43 AM
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Honestly, I just set my Xfinity 4k box to upscale everything to 4k and called it good. Most content looks terrible most of the time (except CW for some reason, that's pretty decent), but it is what it is on these sets. Garbage in, garbage out.
They have 4K xfinity boxes? I have heard people talk about this but I don't see anything on the website for it, not sure if its a area-depended thing or what? I am in Michigan. The only thing I could seem to find regarding "Xfinity 4K box" is that it allows you to watch neflix through the cable box in 4K if you pay for the upgraded subscription, and that actual cable channels themselves are still the same ol' 720...?

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I have directv but im guessing this will help you too. Make your cable box display the native signal instead of 1080p. The extra processing screws up the image.
Oh wow, I didn't think of that. So technically I forced the cable to try and out put 1080, then on top of it the tv itself is trying to upscale so in essence its double upscaling for lack of better terms. I am going to try changing the cable box back to 720 see if that helps some!
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post #33647 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 10:27 AM
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I'm in the Seattle area, so perhaps we are a test market for the 4k boxes. To-date, it isn't good for much. It'll do 4k Netflix, which the C7's onboard app arguably does better. No channels in 4K as of yet. They offered winter Olympics replays in 4K/HDR as well as World Cup replays. Both look pretty spectacular.

Unfortunately, there is no option to display as "Native" anymore on their newer boxes. It's a pick your poison kind of setting on these boxes. I've actually found very little difference between letting the box or the C7 handle the upscaling. Both look like garbage more often than not.
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post #33648 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 11:00 AM
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2. Extended warranties are for their profit. If you look at the big picture, your lifetime, you will spend more money on extended warranties than you will get back from them. If that were false then extended warranties would not be profitable.

.
3RD party warranties from lets say Mack Warranty are cheap, as far as electronics you have 10% odds of using a warranty in a 5 year period. All you need is one major failure and that statement can be wrong, of course odds are it will not happen to you. It will happen to someone though.....
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post #33649 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 02:03 PM
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Guys how can make the tv stay in HDR mode when it is on the menu or showing off the art pics and sample photos it has stored inside? Generally how can i make the tv show off hdr photos in hdr? Whatever i do the tv is not going into hdr mode unless it detects hdr video.

I am curious what format you have for HDR photos. After all if you only have SDR photos, there is no point trying to show them in HDR mode.

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post #33650 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 04:27 PM
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I am curious what format you have for HDR photos. After all if you only have SDR photos, there is no point trying to show them in HDR mode.


Right but there is a pseudo HDR picture mode that simulates the effect of real HDR

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post #33651 of 35896 Old 11-21-2018, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ABeezy13 View Post
They have 4K xfinity boxes? I have heard people talk about this but I don't see anything on the website for it, not sure if its a area-depended thing or what? I am in Michigan. The only thing I could seem to find regarding "Xfinity 4K box" is that it allows you to watch neflix through the cable box in 4K if you pay for the upgraded subscription, and that actual cable channels themselves are still the same ol' 720...?



Oh wow, I didn't think of that. So technically I forced the cable to try and out put 1080, then on top of it the tv itself is trying to upscale so in essence its double upscaling for lack of better terms. I am going to try changing the cable box back to 720 see if that helps some!
I also have the 2017 E765 with xfinity/comcast 4k box I never tried the 720p option what i have it set on now is 4k uhd 2160 the highest setting you can set the box to....anyone else have this setup be interested to share some settings THANKS
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post #33652 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 03:31 AM
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65” C7 color issues

Hi, I’ve owned the C7 for just over a year now and have loved the tv. But just recently, in the last week, I have noticed that the color is off in the center of my tv. It appears that either the red color is not showing through fully or it is heavy on the blue. Skin tones appear to be blueish gray and yellows appear light green and reds take on a purple hue. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem or might know how to fix this?

I’ve added a couple photos with a yellow background to that show off the color issue really well. I have contacted LG support already and am waiting to hear back from them after their experts look at the photos. Any help that you can give is greatly appreciated

Thank you.
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post #33653 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argyle Shepard View Post
Hey all. I just received my B7 a couple of days ago. I had ordered the B8 from a local shop for a great deal, but when they delivered the TV it was the B7. After setting everything up I saw the invoice and realized it was the wrong TV. I mentioned it to the employee (I have a strong feeling it was an actual employee cause this is something they do to get rid of old stock). I told him I ordered the B8 and he gave me the option of doing that, or keeping the B7 for a significant discount.

So my question is, with a B7 for an amazing deal did I make the right choice, or is the B8 enough of an upgrade that I should have sent it back?
From CNET 5-1-18: David Katzmaier stated the following about the 2018 LG OLED's. As you will see, keeping the B7 is absolutely the way to go . . . .

"Anybody who bought a 2017 OLED TV can rest assured that the newest version isn't significantly better (and has an uglier stand). For anybody who wants to save money by getting a 2017 OLED TV on closeout now, rather than waiting until this fall for the C8 to drop in price, consider this review a green light. (Note that Thanksgiving week has been the best time to buy LG's OLED TVs in recent years.)"

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #33654 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tmcniel10 View Post
Hi, I’ve owned the C7 for just over a year now and have loved the tv. But just recently, in the last week, I have noticed that the color is off in the center of my tv. It appears that either the red color is not showing through fully or it is heavy on the blue. Skin tones appear to be blueish gray and yellows appear light green and reds take on a purple hue. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem or might know how to fix this?

I’ve added a couple photos with a yellow background to that show off the color issue really well. I have contacted LG support already and am waiting to hear back from them after their experts look at the photos. Any help that you can give is greatly appreciated

Thank you.
I have the exact same discoloration issue (OLED65C7P) on a panel that replaced my original panel. Fortunately LG has provided a second replacement panel, it arrived yesterday and is scheduled to be installed Monday. It appears to make a big difference if your repair technician is from an independent shop or from LG. My first replacement panel was processed through an independent repair shop. That technician had to establish a video conference with an LG technician in order to receive an authorization to order a new panel. The quality of the phone used by the independent repairman made it difficult for the LG tech to see the issue, and a lot of time was spent trying to capture the problem at an angle that the phone could reproduce. That panel was shipped to the repair shop. My second replacement panel was processed by an LG technician. After viewing the issue, he pulled up a screen on his phone to check availability, and ordered the new panel from that screen without the need to contact anyone. That panel was shipped directly to me from Fontana CA via FedEx. I hope you are fortunate enough to get an LG technician rather than one from an independent shop. From my experience it makes the entire process go a lot faster. One last point. The LG technician stated if parts were backordered for more than ten days he would submit an unable to repair report, and LG would replace the television. My first replacement panel took approximately a month to be received, and the independent technician never mentioned anything about replacing the television.
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post #33655 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
From CNET 5-1-18: David Katzmaier stated the following about the 2018 LG OLED's. As you will see, keeping the B7 is absolutely the way to go . . . .

"Anybody who bought a 2017 OLED TV can rest assured that the newest version isn't significantly better (and has an uglier stand). For anybody who wants to save money by getting a 2017 OLED TV on closeout now, rather than waiting until this fall for the C8 to drop in price, consider this review a green light. (Note that Thanksgiving week has been the best time to buy LG's OLED TVs in recent years.)"
He says that every year with the new models given the disperarity in price, new vs. past. Now that we’ve seen drops in the 8 series don’t kid yourself that the 8 doesn’t offer improvements over the 7. My 7 isn’t being replaced, but there are easy to notice differences between the two generations. If we are talking about the B8, that’s pretty much a 7 with LGs latest WebOS and new panel. The other nice thing is the panel lottery seems to be less of an issue, not as many owners with goal posts, speaking from experience on that one.

There is no perfect display, quit looking for faults and enjoy

LG OLED 65” B7 and 55” C8
Ascend's with RAAL, Love my PSA v1800 and a 7.2.4 speaker config, Oppo 203 and other stuff
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post #33656 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 08:04 AM
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LG OLED inputs not working

Hi,

I purchased my LG 65C7 in February of this year. It worked great. No issues. Last month I noticed I had a problem when I turned on my Apple TV. Each time I’d press the Home button on the Apple remote the TV would switch inputs. I read online to turn off the simplelink, so I did that, and problem was solved.

Yesterday I bought the Sony HTZ9F sound bar. Hooked it out, worked fine. I did notice my TV was slow to turn on though. Then about 10 minutes later, I turn tv on and TV cannot find my Apple TV input. Says Invalid Input. And screen is black, with occasional white static. I try switching inputs, and it can’t detect any of my other inputs. I unplug and replug, even switches the HDMI cables and tried different inputs, nothing.

I went to settings and turned off simplelink, and now my soundbar there’s no sound.

I should also mention that a month ago when I was playing my PS4, during a game the screen would have a static white flick on and off, I shrugged it off to it being the PS4 and the cable I used to connect it..., but now I’m wondering if it’s the TV?

I hope it’s not the motherboard.

Would appreciate any advice!!!
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post #33657 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Kssable View Post
Hi,

I purchased my LG 65C7 in February of this year. It worked great. No issues. Last month I noticed I had a problem when I turned on my Apple TV. Each time I’d press the Home button on the Apple remote the TV would switch inputs. I read online to turn off the simplelink, so I did that, and problem was solved.

Yesterday I bought the Sony HTZ9F sound bar. Hooked it out, worked fine. I did notice my TV was slow to turn on though. Then about 10 minutes later, I turn tv on and TV cannot find my Apple TV input. Says Invalid Input. And screen is black, with occasional white static. I try switching inputs, and it can’t detect any of my other inputs. I unplug and replug, even switches the HDMI cables and tried different inputs, nothing.

I went to settings and turned off simplelink, and now my soundbar there’s no sound.

I should also mention that a month ago when I was playing my PS4, during a game the screen would have a static white flick on and off, I shrugged it off to it being the PS4 and the cable I used to connect it..., but now I’m wondering if it’s the TV?

I hope it’s not the motherboard.

Would appreciate any advice!!!
Try rebooting tv. Unplug tv. Depress and hold power button on tv, not remote, for about 25 seconds. Plug tv back in and see if that fixes issues. The cold reboots clears the ram and any process that may be hung.

LG 65E6P OLED - LG 65EF9500 OLED - OPPO 203 - OPPO 103D
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post #33658 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
For those who asked, I updated the LG 2017 OLEDs Calibrated Settings for X1X (and for Gaming in general) adding Option 1 and Option 2 for both SDR/HDR:


Please also note that:
  • If you prefer Option 2 ("non-PC"), remember to adjust again all in-game HDR sliders around 4.000 nits when possible (or re-hide in-game logos);
  • Both SDR/HDR Option 2 ("non-PC") profiles' Sharpness is now set to 20 as, differently than Technicolor/ISF, 20 is its neutral value instead of 10;
  • HDR Game Color of Option 2 ("non-PC") is back to its default of 65 instead of 55 as, differently than Technicolor, 65 is the color match between those profiles
  • HDR Game Dynamic Contrast of Option 2 ("non-PC") is back to MEDIUM for the best accuracy/luminance ratio.
I have now tried your Option 2 settings and I have a question about them. When I do SDR option 2 settings and then run XBOX calibration from within the Xbox settings menu the contrast and brightness look great. The color on the other hand with the Blue filter seems off. For it to sync all blue like it's supposed to I have to run the color back up to 65. I'm saying 65 because with the blue filter it syncs dead on 65. My question is should I stick with the 40 or trust the Xbox Calibration and go with 65? Xbox going for different color standards? Just brainstorming. Thanks for everything.
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post #33659 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 12:00 PM
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Audio Video sync?

Now that my 65C7 looks perfect, the next thing to optimize is video and audio sync. My sources are 1) Oppo UDP-203 for BluRay and 4K, 2) LG 65C7P Netflix/Amazon Prime via ARC, 3) Cisco 8640 Spectrum cable box all going to a Marantz AV8802a via HDMI (providing 5.2 audio) and video on to the LG 65C7. I have been trying to optimize both Marantz "Audio Delay" (depending on source I'm using between 0ms and 20ms) and the C7's AV Sync Adjustment and I feel I get close but nonetheless think I'm a few milliseconds off both when playing via the Oppo and when I play back Netflix or Amazon Prime videos from the LG via ARC.
Does anyone know of good approach to get the synchronization spot on?
If there's a better forum to learn about this, I would appreciate a pointer.
Thanks in advance...
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post #33660 of 35896 Old 11-22-2018, 02:26 PM
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Hey everyone,

I just picked an incredible deal on a lightly used OLED65C7P from a local guy (5 months old, 585 hours). I watch a lot of NBA basketball (source is Cox at 1080p out) and am hoping someone can get me quickly up to speed on the best ballpark picture settings for that. In time I'm sure I'll dial it in more, but just want to get it going for today while I have some time off work to relax and enjoy the set.

Thanks... So stoked! Didn't think my next set was going to be able to be an OLED this time around, but the killer local deal I found was too good to ignore and made it possible.

EDIT: Found sonoftumble's post: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post55037420

EDIT2: Struggling a bit to get super smooth motion / blur / judder settings. I recall having to really dial this in on my old Samsung LED. Any good settings anyone has found?

Last edited by RiGoR; 11-22-2018 at 09:09 PM.
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