2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1132 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #33931 of 36583 Old 12-10-2018, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cmdrdredd View Post
I doubt anything is damaged. I will say that Windows 10 is pretty poorly setup for 4K hdr and doesn’t always work properly.
U r the man u jad be guessing so i reinstalled windows 10 and so far no sign of problems so far a hour so lets hope and pray...

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post #33932 of 36583 Old 12-10-2018, 07:51 PM
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Guys I got a newbie type question if someone can please let me. I am going crazy over it. Its in regard to sound/audio. Please see my two setups below (Ultimately I am concerned with the LG OLED since that's where the issue lies and thats the thread I am posting in.)

n my living room I have:

65” Samsung KS8000
Sonos beam connected directly to tv via HDMI/ARC
Xfinity set top box hooked up to tv via HDMI
2 Sonos One’s set up for surround
1 Sonos Sub

I don’t seem to notice any issues. I only watch cable tv and stream movies via VUDU and shows on Netflix. Seems to work great.

In my upstairs loft however is where I do much more and have the following setup:

65” LG OLED B7A
Sonos beam connected directly to tv via HDMI/ARC
2 Sonos One’s set up for surround
Xfinity set top box hooked up to tv via HDMI
Xbox One X hooked up to tv via HDMI
PS4 Pro hooked up to tv via HDMI

On my LG B7 Under sound - sound out - I have "audio out (optical/HDMI ARC) checked. Underneath that I have digital sound set to "auto" and simplink set to "on". However here is my issue. When digital sound is set to auto I notice there is very slight delay with lip sync, and the voices and sounds are a hair behind the video. watching cable tv and playing read dead redemption 2 on X1X I seem to notice this slight delay. The TVs internal apps like VUDU for movies and Netflix it seems spot on with no issues. NOWWWW, If I set the digital sound out to "PCM" it seems to fix the issue. So I am new to sound set ups and I don't understand the difference between auto and PCM, and which I should choose. To fix the lip sync issue PCM should be what I use however when I look at my Sonos system when its set to PCM it says its outputting "Stereo" and when its on Auto (with the lip sync issue) my Sonos says its outputting dolby digital 5.1. When switching on the fly the 5.1 with "auto" selected sounds better but this lip sync issue is super annoying.

Sorry for the mega long post, does anyone have any feedback or info that they would like to chime in with?
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post #33933 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 12:08 AM
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Sorry for the mega long post, does anyone have any feedback or info that they would like to chime in with?
An ARC or optical connection only has enough bandwidth to support a compressed Dolby Digital, or DTS signal, *OR* a uncompressed PCM stereo signal.

If ARC is set to PCM, then the TV will be converting all the audio into PCM stereo, which it presumably has a bit of control over, and can adjust the audio delays more readily. Doing this will mean that you will lose your surround sound though.

The TV is capable of converting audio down to a Dolby Digital multi-channel signal for the ARC connection, but doing so will introduce complication and delays. This can be partially overcome with equipment that supports HDMI lip-sync compensation, or audio equipment that supports a manual delay into the audio signal. It's a bit of an art to get this right if you have multiple sources connected to your TV's various inputs.
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post #33934 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 10:46 AM
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same issue with audio sync

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrQuade View Post
An ARC or optical connection only has enough bandwidth to support a compressed Dolby Digital, or DTS signal, *OR* a uncompressed PCM stereo signal.

If ARC is set to PCM, then the TV will be converting all the audio into PCM stereo, which it presumably has a bit of control over, and can adjust the audio delays more readily. Doing this will mean that you will lose your surround sound though.

The TV is capable of converting audio down to a Dolby Digital multi-channel signal for the ARC connection, but doing so will introduce complication and delays. This can be partially overcome with equipment that supports HDMI lip-sync compensation, or audio equipment that supports a manual delay into the audio signal. It's a bit of an art to get this right if you have multiple sources connected to your TV's various inputs.
hi,

just curious what that equipment that supports lip-sync compensation or a manual delay might be.

jeff
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post #33935 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 11:15 AM
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It's a digital connection. If you use the right HDMI chipsets, there will be zero impact on the video quality.
I was referring to the extra connections going into the receiver and depending how the receiver is made, the receiver its self and the internal connections within the receiver. You buy a junk receiver I am sure it can impact the picture quality even on Bi-Pass, like I mentioned though minimal loss if any.
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post #33936 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 11:27 AM
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I was on 04.71.00 until tonight as well. Message popped up that my software would update the next time I turned on the TV. Thought I was finally getting 05.80.04. Nope. TV updated to 05.80.15.
I also haven't received any sort of update on my 65" - still on 4.71.00. This is a new main board in my TV and when I choose the option to check for update, I get a message that immediately says no updates are found.
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post #33937 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 12:28 PM
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I also haven't received any sort of update on my 65" - still on 4.71.00. This is a new main board in my TV and when I choose the option to check for update, I get a message that immediately says no updates are found.
I'm also still on 4.71.00, patiently awaiting the auto-update, with in the meantime, "No updates found" when I do a manual check...
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post #33938 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 12:50 PM
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Following on from some questions I was asking about AVRs and picture quality issues and @sonoftumble suggestion on using HDMI switches:
My main source of high quality AV will be a Sony Sony UBP-X700 4K Blu-ray player.
If I'm unhappy with picture quality would it be possible to do the following:

Attach player HDMI output (video and audio) to HDMI 1 on C7 and switch input to HDMI 1
Attach player HDMI output (audio only) to AVR
AVR would normally be connected to HDMI 2 on C7

I'm assuming that both the player's HDMI outputs are outputting the same signal. There is a little voice at the back of my head saying no, no, silly...

If assumption is correct, this would seem to satisfy the two major needs, uninterrupted, unprocessed video signal and full HD quality sound.
A bonus would be watching Netflix and other streaming services on the Sony with HD sound and bypassing the lack of eARC on the C7.

I've no experience of this and the only issue I can foresee is maybe lip sync issues?
So?
Be nice ;-)
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post #33939 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 02:05 PM
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Just got new panel installed. I will say it appears brighter. Whether that is just wishfull thinking I'm not sure,. But it looks to be. Newer panel tech guy said. Overall running some slides it has less gradient than my first did that we're lighter and spread across more area. This one seems vastly better as far as area goee yet has a pretty good one on the right side and slighter on left . Anyways showing a 5% and 10% and wondering what you all think. Keeper or try another panel? 2 hours on new panel thus far. Thanks guys.
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post #33940 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m-a-r-k View Post
Following on from some questions I was asking about AVRs and picture quality issues and @sonoftumble suggestion on using HDMI switches:

My main source of high quality AV will be a Sony Sony UBP-X700 4K Blu-ray player.

If I'm unhappy with picture quality would it be possible to do the following:



Attach player HDMI output (video and audio) to HDMI 1 on C7 and switch input to HDMI 1

Attach player HDMI output (audio only) to AVR

AVR would normally be connected to HDMI 2 on C7



I'm assuming that both the player's HDMI outputs are outputting the same signal. There is a little voice at the back of my head saying no, no, silly...



If assumption is correct, this would seem to satisfy the two major needs, uninterrupted, unprocessed video signal and full HD quality sound.

A bonus would be watching Netflix and other streaming services on the Sony with HD sound and bypassing the lack of eARC on the C7.



I've no experience of this and the only issue I can foresee is maybe lip sync issues?

So?

Be nice ;-)


1) yes that would work as intended. That type of hookup is for those that had AVRs that could not process/pass 4KHDR sources.

2) no streaming service offers lossless audio. They max out at DD+ with ATMOS (the atmos is DD+ variant).

3) the only real benefit for eARC is when using the TV as a switch instead of an AVR.
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post #33941 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Datagg View Post
Just got new panel installed. I will say it appears brighter. Whether that is just wishfull thinking I'm not sure,. But it looks to be. Newer panel tech guy said. Overall running some slides it has less gradient than my first did that we're lighter and soread across more area. This one seems vastly better yet has a pretty good one on the right side. Anyways showing a 5% and 10% and wondering what you all think. Keeper or try another panel? 2 hours on new panel thus far. Thanks guys.
Looks like the goal posts are still an issue with the 7 series although your 5% is much better than mine...my 5% is horrendous on my C7. If it's not that distracting then I would keep it.
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post #33942 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 03:29 PM
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An ARC or optical connection only has enough bandwidth to support a compressed Dolby Digital, or DTS signal, *OR* a uncompressed PCM stereo signal.

If ARC is set to PCM, then the TV will be converting all the audio into PCM stereo, which it presumably has a bit of control over, and can adjust the audio delays more readily. Doing this will mean that you will lose your surround sound though.

The TV is capable of converting audio down to a Dolby Digital multi-channel signal for the ARC connection, but doing so will introduce complication and delays. This can be partially overcome with equipment that supports HDMI lip-sync compensation, or audio equipment that supports a manual delay into the audio signal. It's a bit of an art to get this right if you have multiple sources connected to your TV's various inputs.
Thank you for the information MrQuade! What I find weird is why is it that these complications and delays seem to be on plugged in devices (cable box, Xbox, etc.) and not the tv's internal apps such as Netflix, Vudu, etc.? Also, is this a tv/brand thing? My Samsung KS8000 does not do this when watching cable or any plugged in devices (since they both have the same surround setup). Lastly, do you have any suggestions on how I may fix it without losing the surround sound? Doing some searching it looks like a common issue for anyone who has an LG OLED with Sonos sound bar and speakers. I guess I am looking for the easiest cheapest fix to eliminate the delay as it is driving me crazy!
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post #33943 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Datagg View Post
Just got new panel installed. I will say it appears brighter. Whether that is just wishfull thinking I'm not sure,. But it looks to be. Newer panel tech guy said. Overall running some slides it has less gradient than my first did that we're lighter and spread across more area. This one seems vastly better as far as area goee yet has a pretty good one on the right side and slighter on left . Anyways showing a 5% and 10% and wondering what you all think. Keeper or try another panel? 2 hours on new panel thus far. Thanks guys.
My new panel was installed 11/26, and I agree with you it does produce a much better picture than the previous panel. It produces a sharper image, and what blew me away is how great HDR looked.
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post #33944 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 03:59 PM
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hi,
just curious what that equipment that supports lip-sync compensation or a manual delay might be.
A decent AVR should be capable of that.

"Lip sync compensation" is just marketing-talk to describe a feature that lets an AV device calculate how much its video processing is delaying the video signal, and then signalling any downstream audio equipment to delay the audio by the same amount. It doesn't literally mean it is analysing the picture and reading lips.

An AVR should automatically apply any lip-sync delays on its own, and they will almost certainly have an option for setting a fixed audio delay since the automatic mechanisms often don't get it completely correct.

Since ABreezy is using a Sonos, I really don't know what options or capabilities are available for that device.

Also, ABreezy's issue is that his audio is already delayed, which is harder to fix than delayed video.

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post #33945 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Datagg View Post
Just got new panel installed. I will say it appears brighter. Whether that is just wishfull thinking I'm not sure,. But it looks to be. Newer panel tech guy said. Overall running some slides it has less gradient than my first did that we're lighter and spread across more area. This one seems vastly better as far as area goee yet has a pretty good one on the right side and slighter on left . Anyways showing a 5% and 10% and wondering what you all think. Keeper or try another panel? 2 hours on new panel thus far. Thanks guys.
My new panel was installed 11/26, and I agree with you it does produce a much better picture than the previous panel. It produces a sharper image, and what blew me away is how great HDR looked.
Thanks cam, RJJH. although it doesn't look the greatest with the 5% image it does however look so much better during content. Looks so much cleaner it's quite amazing as I wasn't expecting that. RJJH is absolutely right image from SDR to HDR looks much better than previous screen. they definitely must have done something to improve the later dates of those panels. Anyways thanks for the input guys I much appreciate it.

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post #33946 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 04:08 PM
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Thank you for the information MrQuade! What I find weird is why is it that these complications and delays seem to be on plugged in devices (cable box, Xbox, etc.) and not the tv's internal apps such as Netflix, Vudu, etc.? Also, is this a tv/brand thing? My Samsung KS8000 does not do this when watching cable or any plugged in devices (since they both have the same surround setup). Lastly, do you have any suggestions on how I may fix it without losing the surround sound? Doing some searching it looks like a common issue for anyone who has an LG OLED with Sonos sound bar and speakers. I guess I am looking for the easiest cheapest fix to eliminate the delay as it is driving me crazy!
The TV is most likely able to manage the delays internally when it is streaming its own content. It is able to transmit the audio ahead of displaying the video since it is controlling the flow of data.
Any external device is squirting the video and audio data at the TV and effectively force feeding it. The TV needs to take both data streams, display the video, and then process the audio for re-transmission to your audio equipment, and that additional audio processing creates a delay.

The real problem here is that the audio is already lagging behind the video. A device that is being force fed video and audio is often able to delay the audio by a bit since the audio is a smaller amount of data (comparitive to the video). In your case, since the video is ahead of the audio, the TV doesn't really have any option to buffer the video to display later, as there is simply too much data in a HDMI video stream.

It is probably easiest to stick with PCM audio so that the audio processing delay is reduced.

Your other option is to bypass the TV's audio processing, but that would most require some external HDMI splitters and potentially a bit of a spaghetti nightmare of cables given that your audio equipment is a Sonos with a single HDMI input.
But basically, if the source devices can feed the audio equipment directly, then the audio equipment can manage any audio delays that it needs to. Your trick is figuring out how to feed both the TV and audio equipment from your sources directly using HDMI splitters, HDMI switches, or an expensive HDMI matrixer.
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post #33947 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
1) yes that would work as intended. That type of hookup is for those that had AVRs that could not process/pass 4KHDR sources.

2) no streaming service offers lossless audio. They max out at DD+ with ATMOS (the atmos is DD+ variant).

3) the only real benefit for eARC is when using the TV as a switch instead of an AVR.
Thank you.
Nice to have fallback positions.
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post #33948 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 04:30 PM
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The TV is most likely able to manage the delays internally when it is streaming its own content. It is able to transmit the audio ahead of displaying the video since it is controlling the flow of data.
Any external device is squirting the video and audio data at the TV and effectively force feeding it. The TV needs to take both data streams, display the video, and then process the audio for re-transmission to your audio equipment, and that additional audio processing creates a delay.

The real problem here is that the audio is already lagging behind the video. A device that is being force fed video and audio is often able to delay the audio by a bit since the audio is a smaller amount of data (comparitive to the video). In your case, since the video is ahead of the audio, the TV doesn't really have any option to buffer the video to display later, as there is simply too much data in a HDMI video stream.

It is probably easiest to stick with PCM audio so that the audio processing delay is reduced.

Your other option is to bypass the TV's audio processing, but that would most require some external HDMI splitters and potentially a bit of a spaghetti nightmare of cables given that your audio equipment is a Sonos with a single HDMI input.
But basically, if the source devices can feed the audio equipment directly, then the audio equipment can manage any audio delays that it needs to. Your trick is figuring out how to feed both the TV and audio equipment from your sources directly using HDMI splitters, HDMI switches, or an expensive HDMI matrixer.
Once again thank you for the wealth of information, I greatly appreciate that. Being new to the home theatre and sound setups, what would cause the LG to have this issue and not my Samsung. Its literally the exact same equipment except the tv itself. Does Samsung perhaps handle this better? If an HDMI splitter or switch would correct the issue I could give it a try... do you have any recommendations to brands or anything? My cable issue wouldn't be to big of an issue as I have my tv mounted with my consoles and cable box in a wall mounted media cabinet so everything is hidden for the most part... unless these create extra HDMI cables and take up a lot more room. I am not too familiar with HDMI splitters or switches and in the case of getting one do I have to change anything on that anytime I change HDMI inputs on the tv?

For example I have my cable box in HDMI 1 the Sonos beam sound bar in HDMI2/ARC and then Xbox in 3 and PS4 in 4. If I am watching Cable on HDMI1 but switch to HDMI3 to play xbox would I then further have to switch something else on the splitter/switch in order to have the sound follow? Obviously right now I change from HDMI 1 to 3 and I do not have to do anything with the sound as its automatic (albeit the lip sync issue).
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post #33949 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 05:46 PM
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Once again thank you for the wealth of information, I greatly appreciate that. Being new to the home theatre and sound setups, what would cause the LG to have this issue and not my Samsung. Its literally the exact same equipment except the tv itself. Does Samsung perhaps handle this better?
My experience with Samsung's ARC is limited, but I do know that when I first bought my LG, I was impressed that it was able to accept a variety of audio formats and then convert to a compressed Dolby stream itself. That's definitely not something my (much) older Samsung was never able to do. It is possible that your Samsung was either simply passing through audio from external sources, or only capable of converting to PCM which didn't introduce a delay.

It's also possible the Samsung was fully capable of doing everything the LG does, but just does it faster. Sorry, I really don't know much about the modern Samsung TV audio capabilities.

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If an HDMI splitter or switch would correct the issue I could give it a try... do you have any recommendations to brands or anything? My cable issue wouldn't be to big of an issue as I have my tv mounted with my consoles and cable box in a wall mounted media cabinet so everything is hidden for the most part... unless these create extra HDMI cables and take up a lot more room. I am not too familiar with HDMI splitters or switches and in the case of getting one do I have to change anything on that anytime I change HDMI inputs on the tv?

For example I have my cable box in HDMI 1 the Sonos beam sound bar in HDMI2/ARC and then Xbox in 3 and PS4 in 4. If I am watching Cable on HDMI1 but switch to HDMI3 to play xbox would I then further have to switch something else on the splitter/switch in order to have the sound follow? Obviously right now I change from HDMI 1 to 3 and I do not have to do anything with the sound as its automatic (albeit the lip sync issue).
I will assume that you want to keep using the Sonos, otherwise I would recommend upgrading to a proper multi-HDMI input AVR to keep things simple (also noting that some cheaper AVRs will affect the video signal quality in HDR as-per previous recent discussions in this thread).

Your trick is to feed the Sonos and TV at the same time, so you need at least one HDMI splitter to do that. You also need to feed multiple devices into the Sonos which only has one HDMI input, so you need at least one HDMI switch to do that.

If you want to maintain full HDR capability on those devices, then you need to make sure the splitters and switches are all 4K 60Hz HDCP 2.2 compatible.

Assuming the switches and splitters don't affect the video quality, and you use good quality HDMI cables, then the following may work.

The XBox and PS4 should both be plugged into a HDMI switch. These typically come in 3 or 5 input varieties, and allow you to select which HDMI input to sent to a single HDMI output (they usually have a small IR remote control and push buttons on the splitter itself).

You then plug the output of the HDMI switch into a HDMI splitter. This automatically divides the HDMI signal into 2, so you can send one to the Sonos, and one to the TV's HDMI1 input.

These sorts of devices can be bought on EBay for a couple of dozen dollars, but I really couldn't say which ones would be the "best" in this case. I also can't guarantee that there won't be any incompatibility issues.

You would leave the Sonos plugged into the TV's HDMI2 input so you can still have ARC audio from the TV.

This setup is less convenient, because it means that you have to do more input switching when swapping between devices.
I do highly recommend using a universal remote control such as a Logitech Harmony to automate all of that, but that could be overkill for the few devices you have in this example.
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post #33950 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 07:18 PM
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2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

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U r the man u jad be guessing so i reinstalled windows 10 and so far no sign of problems so far a hour so lets hope and pray...

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I’ve been trying to get windows 10 to work with hdr for a long time and it’s still hit or miss. Games work ok but Pretty much the rest of the Os and all the streaming apps don’t, at least for me with a gtx 1080ti and any drivers I try.

LG 65" B7A OLED, Samsung 55" JS9000, Sony 43" x800e, Denon AVR-X2200w 5.1.2, PS4 Pro, Nintendo Switch, Gaming PC(GTX 1080ti + 4.7Ghz 8700k), Sony UBP-x800, Philips BDP-7501, Oppo BDP-203, Nvidia Shield TV
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post #33951 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 08:26 PM
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My experience with Samsung's ARC is limited, but I do know that when I first bought my LG, I was impressed that it was able to accept a variety of audio formats and then convert to a compressed Dolby stream itself. That's definitely not something my (much) older Samsung was never able to do. It is possible that your Samsung was either simply passing through audio from external sources, or only capable of converting to PCM which didn't introduce a delay.

It's also possible the Samsung was fully capable of doing everything the LG does, but just does it faster. Sorry, I really don't know much about the modern Samsung TV audio capabilities.


I will assume that you want to keep using the Sonos, otherwise I would recommend upgrading to a proper multi-HDMI input AVR to keep things simple (also noting that some cheaper AVRs will affect the video signal quality in HDR as-per previous recent discussions in this thread).

Your trick is to feed the Sonos and TV at the same time, so you need at least one HDMI splitter to do that. You also need to feed multiple devices into the Sonos which only has one HDMI input, so you need at least one HDMI switch to do that.

If you want to maintain full HDR capability on those devices, then you need to make sure the splitters and switches are all 4K 60Hz HDCP 2.2 compatible.

Assuming the switches and splitters don't affect the video quality, and you use good quality HDMI cables, then the following may work.

The XBox and PS4 should both be plugged into a HDMI switch. These typically come in 3 or 5 input varieties, and allow you to select which HDMI input to sent to a single HDMI output (they usually have a small IR remote control and push buttons on the splitter itself).

You then plug the output of the HDMI switch into a HDMI splitter. This automatically divides the HDMI signal into 2, so you can send one to the Sonos, and one to the TV's HDMI1 input.

These sorts of devices can be bought on EBay for a couple of dozen dollars, but I really couldn't say which ones would be the "best" in this case. I also can't guarantee that there won't be any incompatibility issues.

You would leave the Sonos plugged into the TV's HDMI2 input so you can still have ARC audio from the TV.

This setup is less convenient, because it means that you have to do more input switching when swapping between devices.
I do highly recommend using a universal remote control such as a Logitech Harmony to automate all of that, but that could be overkill for the few devices you have in this example.
Thanks for the information! Ugh... what a hassle just to have this sync properly. Seems like quite a bit of work to get this to not only work properly, but then when I want to use each device. Its 2018, not sure why technology just doesn't allow for this to work out of the box. Sucks that it does seem to work fine on the Samsung, however I am a big gamer and am on the OLED most of the time. Like you said I could just switch to PCM but that kind of defeats the purpose... and then the money I spent on these Sono's speakers and sound bar. The issue seems to be worse when there's someone talking fast or saying a lot. I guess my options are A) deal with it B) do what you just mentioned above with a switch or splitter, or C) change from "AUTO" to "PCM" on the tv's settings. Very very frustrating.
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post #33952 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABeezy13 View Post
I guess my options are A) deal with it B) do what you just mentioned above with a switch or splitter, or C) change from "AUTO" to "PCM" on the tv's settings. Very very frustrating.
I am not 100% sure what the LG TVs do with an incoming audio signal that is already ARC compatible. Ideally, it would just pass the audio through without processing, and that would solve the delay issues since the TV would no longer be re-encoding the audio.

You could try making sure your XBox is always outputting Dolby bitstream audio rather than "Multichannel". The Multichannel mode refers to multichannel PCM, which exceeds the bandwidth capacity of ARC. If the XBox outputs a regular Dolby bitstream, which is ARC compatible, there is a chance that the TV will just let it on through.

You could also experiment with setting the XBox to output just stereo audio and see if that fixes the delay too. If so, then at least you know that the TV is able to pass stereo without any conversion.

Someone more knowledgeable on the LG's audio processing may be able to chime in and save you some experimenting though. It's one thing to know what a TV can do from a feature standpoint, but it is another thing to dig deep into the subtle ways in which it achieves those features that make the difference when you encounter problems like these.
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post #33953 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 11:29 PM
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Very small tweak for calibrated 2017 LG OLED's HDR Game mode:

  • V4.1: HDR Game Color value slightly tuned down from 65 to 62 to be even more closer to calibrated HDR Technicolor


More info and all settings here
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post #33954 of 36583 Old 12-11-2018, 11:38 PM
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No Auto Update for me...still on 05.80.04

Josh
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post #33955 of 36583 Old 12-12-2018, 06:05 AM
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Don’t feel bad I am still on 4.71.00

Lg oled65G7P
Panasonic UB9000 pioneer lx500
atv4k -roku ultra
Toshiba Xa2 HD-DVD
Samsung HW-N950 soundbar
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post #33956 of 36583 Old 12-12-2018, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m-a-r-k View Post
Following on from some questions I was asking about AVRs and picture quality issues and @sonoftumble suggestion on using HDMI switches:
My main source of high quality AV will be a Sony Sony UBP-X700 4K Blu-ray player.
If I'm unhappy with picture quality would it be possible to do the following:

Attach player HDMI output (video and audio) to HDMI 1 on C7 and switch input to HDMI 1
Attach player HDMI output (audio only) to AVR
AVR would normally be connected to HDMI 2 on C7

I'm assuming that both the player's HDMI outputs are outputting the same signal. There is a little voice at the back of my head saying no, no, silly...
I had my Pioneer Elite connected that way from my Samsung K8500 4K Blu-ray player, except that I didn't have the HDMI outputs connected to anything coming out of the Pioneer. If I tried connecting any of the Pioneer's HDMI outputs to the TV, I lost all audio. It may depend on your AVR, but if its behavior is anything like mine, you will be doing the same thing.

Basically with the HDMI audio only output, you are turning the Blu-ray player into a distribution amplifier/HDMI splitter. This should work just fine.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #33957 of 36583 Old 12-12-2018, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
I had my Pioneer Elite connected that way from my Samsung K8500 4K Blu-ray player, except that I didn't have the HDMI outputs connected to anything coming out of the Pioneer. If I tried connecting any of the Pioneer's HDMI outputs to the TV, I lost all audio. It may depend on your AVR, but if its behavior is anything like mine, you will be doing the same thing.

Basically with the HDMI audio only output, you are turning the Blu-ray player into a distribution amplifier/HDMI splitter. This should work just fine.
Thank you, OK so I've got fallback positions and can go ahead with my new purchases.
Fun time ahead...
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post #33958 of 36583 Old 12-12-2018, 07:51 AM
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So can anyone confirm that the tweak to hdr luminance that last firmware brings (05.80.10) also applies to 2017 tv ?
No confirmation so far ...
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post #33959 of 36583 Old 12-12-2018, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manuxs1806 View Post
So can anyone confirm that the tweak to hdr luminance that last firmware brings (05.80.10) also applies to 2017 tv ?
No confirmation so far ...

It doesn't. Nothing is changed.
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post #33960 of 36583 Old 12-12-2018, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon_67 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manuxs1806 View Post
So can anyone confirm that the tweak to hdr luminance that last firmware brings (05.80.10) also applies to 2017 tv ?
No confirmation so far ...

It doesn't. Nothing is changed.
Thanks. Then no use to update.
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