2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1158 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #34711 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by schwinn8 View Post
Question for the group - I was avoiding the latest update on my B7P but it got triggered by mistake, so now I have it (USA TV in the USA... I just don't remember the version number ATM). Since install, I have had numerous issues with Netflix - sometimes it will crash as soon as it starts, and often enough if I leave it and go to another HDMI, then come back, it will say the program cannot be played, etc. I recover fine by restarting the app, and it works fine. For the "cannot play" I simply back out and restart and all is fine. So, it's not a critical issue. But, this has been happening ever since the last update. I tried doing a factory reset from the menus, and this has not fixed the issue.

But now, today, we noticed that the volumes on the various apps or HDMI ports are VERY different. HDMI (Tivo) is as it was... so is Amazon Prime. But now, Hulu and Netflix are both at about 1/2 to 1/3 volume. Numerically, we normally listen at about 15-20 on the volume (internal speakers)... but now we're running Netflix and Hulu at around 40-45 to get similar volume. Has anyone else seen this?


Also, to contribute to the satisfaction posts... we are VERY happy with this set. Had it for over a year, watching anything and everything. Not seeing any burnin or image issues. I think I'm at about 5000+ hours now, as well... never seen a "pixel refresh" run (maybe my wife has?) but all is fine. Very happy with the set otherwise!

Any tips/ideas on the audio question (and Netflix issues) are appreciated. Thanks! (Oh yeah, FYI, set is connected by wire, not wifi. No connectivity issues on any of our devices.)
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I have been having issues with all my apps on the tv. My fire tv had no problems. I prefer using the tv apps for the screen saver option . I fall asleep at night watching the tv. I have 3700 hours. Im hardwired. I restarted my router and it fixed it for now. Its still loading stuff slightly longer than before this happened. But everything is playing properly now.

The latest update is 5.80.15. I have not heard about any issues that the most recent update has inflicted on Netflix. I don't use the internal app so maybe it is just specific to that. I do know this update has caused some owners TV's to turn on at random.
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post #34712 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 08:21 AM
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The latest update is 5.80.15. I have not heard about any issues that the most recent update has inflicted on Netflix. I don't use the internal app so maybe it is just specific to that. I do know this update has caused some owners TV's to turn on at random.
I've come up with a work around to the problem of the panel turning itself back on after it's been turned-off.
I went into Settings>General>Quick Start+ and I've turned it off. Since I did that the problem has gone away!
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post #34713 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Nation66 View Post
I've come up with a work around to the problem of the panel turning itself back on after it's been turned-off.
I went into Settings>General>Quick Start+ and I've turned it off. Since I did that the problem has gone away!


You should Turn off “Auto Power Sync” under General / Simplelink as well if you haven’t already


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post #34714 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 11:05 AM
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You should Turn off “Auto Power Sync” under General / Simplelink as well if you haven’t already


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I'd tried that, but it caused some conflicts with other devices, so I just set Quick Start + to off, and it now works fine.
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post #34715 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 11:18 AM
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I wanted to update you all on the response I got from LG about the burn in my panel suffered on my 18 month old C7. They have decided to replace my panel free of charge as a one time out of warranty accommodation. I should have the replacement by the end of next week and will give a final report as to how it all turns out.
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post #34716 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 03:49 PM
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It’s always fun to read those excuses about a product where people who don’t know anything about other people behaviours or routines are the ones who’d come up with the most creative explanations based on nothing but guesses.

Most of the people are using their tv where it is made for. Nothing more than watching tv on. Nobody even the tv reviewers knows exactly how burn-ins happens. One thing is for sure, it’s way more complicated than just guessing about static images, which has been projected to long on the screen.

Also most of the biased people who are defending their technology, because it still didn’t happen on their screen, (also a funny fact most of them don’t even owns an oled television that long) so it must be others, are ****ing hypocritical. I would even bet to say that a big part of the people who do own an oled television don’t even know if their panels are burned-in or burn-in free. Most of them get noticed because of others that are doing slider test on their screen, so they replicated it.

You won’t notice it normally on regular content until you are looking for it. And most of the people who do own an OLED tv don’t care about forums, they just heard it from friends, family or tv sellers how good this technology is and based on that make their purchase.
I had a plasma with the Cartoon Network logo burned in the corner. I gave the TV to a friend and he never noticed the burned in logo.
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post #34717 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 05:02 PM
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I know it's been mentioned here before but this thread is so massive now.... But what is a good wall mount from Amazon for the 65B7A that is fully adjustable (pull out and turn)? Thank you!!
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post #34718 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 06:29 PM
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I know it's been mentioned here before but this thread is so massive now.... But what is a good wall mount from Amazon for the 65B7A that is fully adjustable (pull out and turn)? Thank you!!
I like these. I have single stud mount. They are cheaper at Menards if you have them in your area.

https://www.amazon.com/Barkan-29-Ful...kan+wall+mount

https://www.amazon.com/Barkan-Motion...kan+wall+mount
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post #34719 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 09:14 PM
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Haven't posted here in a while but I had a really random question regarding captured HDR images. I just recently got Planet Earth 2 (PE2)/Blue Planet 2 on 4K UHD blu-ray, and wow does this validate OLED quality above and beyond for me. There is such a significant difference compared to the Netflix 4K stream I originally watched PE2 on. The HDR just makes it POP with vivid color and hyperrealism detail.

My question is: if I take a screenshot of the same image in HDR (e.g. 4K blu-ray) and non-HDR (Netflix 4k stream), what kind of difference will be captured if it's being captured by a non-hdr camera and then viewed on a non-HDR display? I want to show this off to my family who does not understand the difference that HDR makes.

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post #34720 of 36271 Old 01-22-2019, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by PeeJHooK View Post
My question is: if I take a screenshot of the same image in HDR (e.g. 4K blu-ray) and non-HDR (Netflix 4k stream), what kind of difference will be captured if it's being captured by a non-hdr camera and then viewed on a non-HDR display? I want to show this off to my family who does not understand the difference that HDR makes.
There would be practically no point, and is more likely to be counterproductive. There is no way to *accurately* convey the difference such that you could impress anyone if they are looking at the result via non HDR equipment.
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post #34721 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 04:52 AM
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I'm not sure I have used the right way to start a new item? (so please forgive me if I am replying to the last post):

I am generally really delighted with the PQ on my C7 for most viewing but have been very disappointed from the start with nearly every UHD disc I have bought - around 50. I use an LG UP970 player which works well. Some discs are acceptable and one is fantastic (BBC's Planet Earth II which is hybrid log gamma, not 'standard' HDR or DV).

The problem is that most of my movies are very dark even with OLED light set at 100 et, etc.) The worst is 'The Revenant' which is almost unwatchable unless our room is pitch black. I have hung onto some of my discs in the hope that a new TV eventually will show them in their full glory.

I think there may be a answer however. Panasonic have introduced their 9000 model which has 'optimised tone mapping'. I have now learned that the cheaper 820 has it as well. Does anyone have any experience on whether UHD movies come up brighter on a C6 / C7 /C8 using either of these players?

The way the Panasonic is said to work is as follows (taken from another AVForums thread):

"I have a 2017 LG OLED. It has LG's first implementation of dynamic tone mapping that they call Active HDR that earlier models did not. Due to the lack of dynamic tone mapping in the earlier models eg 2015, they would benefit more from the UB820 optimizer than the 2017/2018 models would.

With dynamic tone mapping turned off in my LG, it will use the discs MaxDML (mastering monitor peak brightness) HDR metadata value in its tone mapping algorithm instead of relying on MaxCLL (content peak brightness). This can result in an overly dark picture when the disc contains a high MaxDML value but a low MaxCLL value. The Panasonic 820UB Optimizer will tone map the bright highlights to a brightness that the TV can display but not compress the rest of the content which is what can cause an overly dark picture."

Any thoughts?
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post #34722 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 06:12 AM
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I am generally really delighted with the PQ on my C7 for most viewing but have been very disappointed from the start with nearly every UHD disc I have bought - around 50. I use an LG UP970 player which works well. Some discs are acceptable and one is fantastic (BBC's Planet Earth II which is hybrid log gamma, not 'standard' HDR or DV).

The problem is that most of my movies are very dark even with OLED light set at 100 et, etc.) The worst is 'The Revenant' which is almost unwatchable unless our room is pitch black. I have hung onto some of my discs in the hope that a new TV eventually will show them in their full glory.
Have you turned on "HDMI Deep Color" on the TV? Try these HDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post55037420

For reference, I have "The Revenant" too and while it conveys a cold winter well I would not call it 'dark'.

Last edited by cathodeRay; 01-23-2019 at 06:20 AM.
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post #34723 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 06:28 AM
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^ I'm not going to quote your long post. All I can say is I have over 100 UHDs, most of them look great on my OLED and I can honestly say they all add something positive vs. the blu-ray. I was buying UHDs prior to having my OLED, knowing I'd upgrade eventually and I could still take advantage of any immersive mixes thanks to my Oppo 203. As much as I loved my Panny VT60, HDR was the game changer IMO more so than 4k. From what you describe you have an issue with your settings or a bad panel. Remember that this display won best HDR presentation at last year's shootout. Dynamic tone mapping has been improved for the C8, but the difference isn't that dramatic, it works pretty darn well on the B/C7. The Panasonic may help (remember the recommended setting for HDR is to use Dynamic Tone mapping on the LG and then set accordingly on the Panny), but from what you describe your issues lie elsewhere. There is a lot more at play than setting your light level. I have never felt the need to buy a Panasonic or viewed it as something that would make that big of difference unless I was a projector owner or owned a display that did 4k but not HDR.



First thought, I hope you turned off the energy saving mode (which is on by default) and it would be helpful to know what else you are doing - ie Cinema Home/Custom or Technicolor, etc. Have you tried the recommended settings found on this thread?

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post #34724 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by philphluter View Post
I'm not sure I have used the right way to start a new item? (so please forgive me if I am replying to the last post):

I am generally really delighted with the PQ on my C7 for most viewing but have been very disappointed from the start with nearly every UHD disc I have bought - around 50. I use an LG UP970 player which works well. Some discs are acceptable and one is fantastic (BBC's Planet Earth II which is hybrid log gamma, not 'standard' HDR or DV).

The problem is that most of my movies are very dark even with OLED light set at 100 et, etc.) The worst is 'The Revenant' which is almost unwatchable unless our room is pitch black. I have hung onto some of my discs in the hope that a new TV eventually will show them in their full glory.

I think there may be a answer however. Panasonic have introduced their 9000 model which has 'optimised tone mapping'. I have now learned that the cheaper 820 has it as well. Does anyone have any experience on whether UHD movies come up brighter on a C6 / C7 /C8 using either of these players?

The way the Panasonic is said to work is as follows (taken from another AVForums thread):

"I have a 2017 LG OLED. It has LG's first implementation of dynamic tone mapping that they call Active HDR that earlier models did not. Due to the lack of dynamic tone mapping in the earlier models eg 2015, they would benefit more from the UB820 optimizer than the 2017/2018 models would.

With dynamic tone mapping turned off in my LG, it will use the discs MaxDML (mastering monitor peak brightness) HDR metadata value in its tone mapping algorithm instead of relying on MaxCLL (content peak brightness). This can result in an overly dark picture when the disc contains a high MaxDML value but a low MaxCLL value. The Panasonic 820UB Optimizer will tone map the bright highlights to a brightness that the TV can display but not compress the rest of the content which is what can cause an overly dark picture."

Any thoughts?
I would try setting dynamic contrast to high to brighten it up first. I have the ub820. It will brighten up the picture some. But i just normally use dynamic contrast on high and don't mess with the optimizer. I just have it set for an oled tv.

Last edited by yogi6807; 01-23-2019 at 06:59 AM.
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post #34725 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 07:06 AM
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I think I recall when I saw this issue several times in the other threads about uniformity and burn in that it was happening after the TV did it's first large comp cycle, which is why it hit around the 2000 hour mark. I wonder if it's something like the other issue they've had with the box that shows up in the middle of people's screen because of an 'error in the lookup table' or whatever. Having owned my B7 a while now, I'm less worried about BI now than I was when I got it but still worried that I will get this line down the middle after my warranty is up as well and have to argue with squaretrade about it. Also still have the issue with dark movies activating the auto dimmer during extended scenes, but I've just learned to live with it now.

I really believe that if your set develops the half screen dark image, that squaretrade will take care of it if you remain firm and ask for a panel replacement and refer back to these threads. I extended my warranty through LG for an additional 2 yrs. because the repairman told me replacement panels are over $1000 just for the part and the labor is extra.
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post #34726 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by PeeJHooK View Post
Haven't posted here in a while but I had a really random question regarding captured HDR images. I just recently got Planet Earth 2 (PE2)/Blue Planet 2 on 4K UHD blu-ray, and wow does this validate OLED quality above and beyond for me. There is such a significant difference compared to the Netflix 4K stream I originally watched PE2 on. The HDR just makes it POP with vivid color and hyperrealism detail.

My question is: if I take a screenshot of the same image in HDR (e.g. 4K blu-ray) and non-HDR (Netflix 4k stream), what kind of difference will be captured if it's being captured by a non-hdr camera and then viewed on a non-HDR display? I want to show this off to my family who does not understand the difference that HDR makes.
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There would be practically no point, and is more likely to be counterproductive. There is no way to *accurately* convey the difference such that you could impress anyone if they are looking at the result via non HDR equipment.
Here is how experts portray it. (from a cnet article quoting a Sony photo).

It is all an approximation.

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post #34727 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 11:33 AM
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Question for the group - I was avoiding the latest update on my B7P but it got triggered by mistake, so now I have it (USA TV in the USA... I just don't remember the version number ATM). Since install, I have had numerous issues with Netflix - sometimes it will crash as soon as it starts, and often enough if I leave it and go to another HDMI, then come back, it will say the program cannot be played, etc. I recover fine by restarting the app, and it works fine. For the "cannot play" I simply back out and restart and all is fine. So, it's not a critical issue. But, this has been happening ever since the last update. I tried doing a factory reset from the menus, and this has not fixed the issue.

But now, today, we noticed that the volumes on the various apps or HDMI ports are VERY different. HDMI (Tivo) is as it was... so is Amazon Prime. But now, Hulu and Netflix are both at about 1/2 to 1/3 volume. Numerically, we normally listen at about 15-20 on the volume (internal speakers)... but now we're running Netflix and Hulu at around 40-45 to get similar volume. Has anyone else seen this?


Also, to contribute to the satisfaction posts... we are VERY happy with this set. Had it for over a year, watching anything and everything. Not seeing any burnin or image issues. I think I'm at about 5000+ hours now, as well... never seen a "pixel refresh" run (maybe my wife has?) but all is fine. Very happy with the set otherwise!

Any tips/ideas on the audio question (and Netflix issues) are appreciated. Thanks! (Oh yeah, FYI, set is connected by wire, not wifi. No connectivity issues on any of our devices.)

Looks like the volume problem has resolved itself, or was remedied by the hard reset I did (left the TV unplugged overnight). Volume levels are now back to normal for all apps. Maybe it was just an episode or two on Netflix/Hulu, or something else, but it's back to normal now.

Still getting weird crashes of the apps (particularly Netflix) at times. It recovers fine when I try again, but it's weird. Software is, indeed, 5.80.15 - that was the update I was trying to avoid, in general, but it seems ok otherwise... besides these weird app crashes. That never happened on the previous software (4.71.x I think?)
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post #34728 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 12:53 PM
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2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Here is how experts portray it. (from a cnet article quoting a Sony photo).



It is all an approximation.




That photo comparison looks like HDR as defined in the “photographic” world and it really is a very different thing HDR as it relates to TVs. Same term different meanings.


https://www.cnet.com/news/hdr-for-ca...he-difference/
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post #34729 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 12:57 PM
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That photo comparison looks like HDR as defined in the “photographic” world and it really is a very different thing HDR as it relates to TVs. Same term different meanings.


That is true as simply put Photo HDR is putting three shots together usually at + and minus 1/2 f steps. Usually to allow one to see in shadows. It is very basic definition of Photo HDR which is different from TV


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post #34730 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 01:11 PM
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That photo comparison looks like HDR as defined in the “photographic” world and it really is a very different thing HDR as it relates to TVs. Same term different meanings.


https://www.cnet.com/news/hdr-for-ca...he-difference/
Here is the CNET article with the photo. Whether the author made a mistake using something intended for Sony cameras I don't know. I used Google image search to find sources and the only other place I found it being used was Vudu's official blog, which again was referring to television.

https://www.cnet.com/news/all-about-...s-for-your-tv/

https://blog.vudu.com/vudu-has-star-...by-vision-hdr/

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post #34731 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 01:12 PM
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Yep, impossible to accurately convey HDR in an SDR context. However, this is how Sony describes it (it is their photo) and probably better than what the OP could photograph himself for his family.
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post #34732 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 03:11 PM
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Hmmm, I think I've recently noticed (maybe the past month or 2) that line down the middle that people keep talking about. It's not often, but randomly shows up. Saw it last night while watching episode 3 of Punisher season 2 through my Amazon 4K Firestick. Also seen it on VLC through my Xbox One. Using SOFs settings. C7 purchased in September 2017 with maybe 2500-3000 hours I think. Is there a reference image/video to test this on. And since I figure I'm out of warranty, will LG do anything if I open a ticket?
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post #34733 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 03:52 PM
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2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

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Yep, impossible to accurately convey HDR in an SDR context. However, this is how Sony describes it (it is their photo) and probably better than what the OP could photograph himself for his family.


Those photos do not show what is being claimed. It is over hyping things.

You can view those two photos as is on a TV in either HDR or SDR and you’d see the clear difference and they look pretty much the same. This is because the pretty photo is just showing a complicated exposure level manipulation (using usually multiple images) to create the one image.

For TV HDR it is impossible on an SDR set to show how TV HDR image would look for an image mastered for TV HDR.

You can show it in a photo of a TV SDR and a TV HDR image when viewed on a TV HDR set. But all you would see is more colors being available and more dynamic range. You would NOT be seeing altered exposure levels for colors where the the to color ranges overlap.
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post #34734 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 04:04 PM
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If someone has a better photograph that they can offer up to the OP, they should do so. I agree the one that Sony created is sub optimal and that ultimately the task is a losing proposition (it's like trying to eat a gourmet meal through a straw).
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post #34735 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 04:30 PM
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I totally get what you are suggesting, but really, the point that I was trying to make is that you are never going to "wow" anyone with how impressive the TV is unless you show them in person. Showing them an approximated still image comparison to a non-HDR display will at best give them an academic appreciation for the technology.

The way I am reading the question is that they want to show their family..."THIS is why I would pay thousands of dollars for a TV", and then they will stop rolling their eyes and shaking their heads at them .

The other part of the equation is the resolution too don't forget. Resolution is hard to convey in a photo too. The one thing that always impressed me in the stores was the sheer detail that was apparent in these TVs, even when you were viewing close-up. The HDR never grabbed me in the showroom because the viewing conditions were invariably quite poor (though the black levels were still amazing).
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post #34736 of 36271 Old 01-23-2019, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
If someone has a better photograph that they can offer up to the OP, they should do so. I agree the one that Sony created is sub optimal and that ultimately the task is a losing proposition (it's like trying to eat a gourmet meal through a straw).


I don’t know it there is a better photograph, all I’m saying is that photo is not showing what It purports to show. And a real photo probably would still cause the family to roll there eyes. Truth is for the average person they don’t see a big difference between 1080p and all the flavors of 4K.

Now 3D that’s something where the average joe can see a difference and that too is something you can’t show in a photo. (And eyes still roll for many when they do see 3D.)
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post #34737 of 36271 Old 01-24-2019, 12:24 AM
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Thanks to all that gave your input. I appreciate the discussion that ensued following my question.

I totally get the points about not being able to accurately display an HDR image taken by an SDR camera and shown through an SDR display. I was more curious about what it would look like, and if there was enough to capture in the image to give people who are oblivious to HDR to at least get the gist of it conceptually.

But in thinking it over, I sort of answered my own question after the responses, especially the points about the wow factor. I thought back to my own personal experience and remembered how reading and seeing approximated HDR image comparisons never really helped me fully appreciate HDR until I actually saw it firsthand on my C7, much like how I finally saw PE2 recently. It's one thing to see HDR footage for the very first time, as there is definitely a wow factor in that. But it's a different wow factor to finally see it and compare it to its 4K SDR counterpart, similar to when I finally saw PE2 in 4K UHD HDR on blu-ray for the first time, after having only previously seen it in 4K SDR via netflix.

I will just have to show them in person the next time they come over.
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post #34738 of 36271 Old 01-24-2019, 02:12 AM
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I would try setting dynamic contrast to high to brighten it up first. I have the ub820. It will brighten up the picture some. But i just normally use dynamic contrast on high and don't mess with the optimizer. I just have it set for an oled tv.
Thanks Yogi.
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post #34739 of 36271 Old 01-24-2019, 02:22 AM
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Have you turned on "HDMI Deep Color" on the TV? Try these HDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post55037420

For reference, I have "The Revenant" too and while it conveys a cold winter well I would not call it 'dark'.
Thanks CathodeRay. I have HDMI Deep Colour on. I have set all of sonoftumbles settings (but increased OLED light).
The Panasonic UB820 has an "OLED" setting which I presume boosts the brightness. I understand projector owners are pleased with this player for the same reasons.
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post #34740 of 36271 Old 01-24-2019, 06:55 AM
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^ I'm not going to quote your long post. All I can say is I have over 100 UHDs, most of them look great on my OLED and I can honestly say they all add something positive vs. the blu-ray. I was buying UHDs prior to having my OLED, knowing I'd upgrade eventually and I could still take advantage of any immersive mixes thanks to my Oppo 203. As much as I loved my Panny VT60, HDR was the game changer IMO more so than 4k. From what you describe you have an issue with your settings or a bad panel. Remember that this display won best HDR presentation at last year's shootout. Dynamic tone mapping has been improved for the C8, but the difference isn't that dramatic, it works pretty darn well on the B/C7. The Panasonic may help (remember the recommended setting for HDR is to use Dynamic Tone mapping on the LG and then set accordingly on the Panny), but from what you describe your issues lie elsewhere. There is a lot more at play than setting your light level. I have never felt the need to buy a Panasonic or viewed it as something that would make that big of difference unless I was a projector owner or owned a display that did 4k but not HDR.



First thought, I hope you turned off the energy saving mode (which is on by default) and it would be helpful to know what else you are doing - ie Cinema Home/Custom or Technicolor, etc. Have you tried the recommended settings found on this thread?
Thanks smurraybhm, I appreciate your thoughts.

I have energy saving off.

My Dolby Vision picture mode is 'Cinema (User). My SD and HD picture modes are Technicolour Expert (User). I am using sonoftumbles settings with the exception of those noted below:

I have now turned Dynamic Contrast to 'High' on all resolutions and this does lighten the picture on both HDR and Dolby Vision discs (I suppose it leaves the dark parts of the picture dark but raises the bright bits?). I had understood the general view on this had been to leave it 'Off' or set it at 'Low'. My previous setting was 'Low'.

To get the best (brightest) picture I also set 'OLED light' to 100 and 'Brightness' to 60. This does seem to be more than most people use?


I value your comments.
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