2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1174 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #35191 of 35900 Old 03-13-2019, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by barth2 View Post
Have a look at Vincent Teoh's review of Panasonic's HDR optimiser. I would buy their UHD player just for that feature if it weren't $1000 lol.
Yeah, I would buy a separate box just for the feature like the Linker, but the Linker seems like a bit of a pain.

I asked Vincent on Twitter if he thought LG would ever update the 7 series and it’s sounds like he doesn’t think so.
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post #35192 of 35900 Old 03-13-2019, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TitusTroy View Post
was this an issue only on the 2018 models?

LG Fixes OLED TV Flashing And Blocking Problems

https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnarc.../#18846b0e235a
Yes.

There is no perfect display, quit looking for faults and enjoy

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post #35193 of 35900 Old 03-13-2019, 06:59 PM
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Yes.
looks like the C7 might be my best TV purchase ever!
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post #35194 of 35900 Old 03-13-2019, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TitusTroy View Post
looks like the C7 might be my best TV purchase ever!
The B/C7 is a very good display but this issue has only been seen by me with marginal quality content, streaming or DTV. There are more than a few things the C8 does better, that’s based on my ownership of both. Even better the fix for the issue you asked about has been released in Europe and should be out to all by mid-April. Based on those who’ve downloaded the update LG has done a great job fixing the issue with a few other improvements as well like near black. The 7 series is solid, but the C8 is a notch above. I’m not selling either one by the way.
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post #35195 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 06:54 AM
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I never noticed it till wife mentioned it couple days ago. BB Geek Squad guy said it is burn-in
That does not make it so...lol. If you can leave the TV on for 48 hours on HBO or something like that, see if its still there...

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The burn-in on yours is a bit less severe. You probably only watched news 90% of the time.
I have never seen burn in that bad.
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post #35196 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 07:19 AM
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That does not make it so...lol. If you can leave the TV on for 48 hours on HBO or something like that, see if its still there...

I have never seen burn in that bad.
Most people don't use the TV in a mode where it pushes all content as HDR with a high OLED light setting for 18 hours a day (I think most people buying an OLED are looking for something that displays a realistic image, while those that prefer an unnatural extreme pop to the colors prefer the QLED options instead). And it is is on 18 hours a day I bet it actually does spend a fair percentage of that time on the channel guide. Most likely more than one would realize given you probably only pay attention to the TV when it is actually showing something and you are in the room.
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post #35197 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by charlesrshell View Post
I don't really know. We turn the TV off anywhere from 20:00 to 22:00 at nite and fire her back up around 04:00 in the morning. Is there a setting someplace that I can check to make sure it is turned on? I ran a manual Pixel Refresher about four times to try to clear the burn-in up but didn't help any.
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Originally Posted by jk82 View Post
So that's like 16-18 hours per day. No wonder it looks like one from Rtings burn-in test.

Oled-Light set to a high value I assume?
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Originally Posted by charlesrshell View Post
Thanks for the info. I liked that mode the best. Why should I have to worry about picture mode? No more OLED for me.
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That’s the reality of emissive technology if you want to watch like that you should definitely switch to lcd, good luck. I am
Glad you had the Best Buy warranty because your viewing habits would be classified as abuse by LG.

I see you are an Air Force vet like me , thank you for your service .

Yes thank you for your service and yeah... it's pretty obvious now how you got your burn in and an LCD set is definitely what I recommend for your extensive daily cable TV viewing.


On a side note, I see all the time from people "But LG markets the TV as suitable for all content, I'm not paying $5000 for a TV I have to baby, yada yada yada" and my thoughts are this... Why would you buy an OLED to watch news or other logoed programming? Seriously... why? It's like buying a Ferrari as a grocery getter. Completely unnecessary. I bought mine for 1080p and UHD movies... and use it very little for craptastic Comcast 720p and 1080p broadcasts that don't look nearly as good for obvious reasons. No burn in after 2300+ hours. Shouldn't be a surprise.

Yeah burn in sucks... but why would you even consider an OLED purchase for 16-18 hours a day of CNN? Just buy a $349 LCD and call it a day. OLED is a risky proposition for that type of content... I don't care what LG says.

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post #35198 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 08:28 AM
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Some people will alway gravitate toward "the best" even if the best isn't suitable to their needs. It's human nature and neither the manufacturer nor the fella in the blue shirt selling it to them are going to stand in the way of someone looking to part with their money.

I know it's in fashion to blame the manufacturer and/or the technology and, to be fair, they do share blame by way of marketing, but it really is on the consumer as well to ensure their purchase of "the best" is right for them.

(I'd totally drive a Ferrari FF as a grocery getter. )
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post #35199 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by charlesrshell View Post
Just wanted to pass on my experience with our LG OLED 55C7P burn-in issue. Purchased TV from Best Buy November 2017. Also purchased 2 year Geek Squad Protection Plan. Couple days ago wife asked me if I noticed all the dark marks on the screen. I really didn't notice them. Yesterday BB Geek Squad technician stopped by and condemned our TV due to burn-in. They offered a trade in for a new LG OLED or credit toward any new TV. I am really leary now of OLEDs. Sure glad I had the protection plan.
I bought my C7 the same month as you. Now I’m scared....

I do see dark spots occasionally but they go away in a few minutes so it’s image retention not burn-in.
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post #35200 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by charlesrshell View Post
Do you think there is a chance that my OLED was damaged along the line someplace to cause this excessive burn-in? We were always careful not to pause screens, don't use the mute very long, etc. This just seems like to me something else caused all this burn-in.
You're using an OLED for most hours of the day in torch mode with OLED light set to maximum on channels with bright static overlays.

It's pretty much worst case scenario. OLED is not for you - in my opinion you are lucky they honored the warranty under those conditions.

I'm still surprised that the mute overlay burned in if as you said you didn't use it very long.

Definitely go to a LED TV.
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post #35201 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 05:46 PM
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Weird. Came up with a database error screen, then when I reloaded it gave me a double post.
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post #35202 of 35900 Old 03-14-2019, 06:38 PM
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Has anyone gotten their sets exchanged through LG manufacturer's warranty if LG cant fix their set? The LG tech is coming in less than a week. Besides getting my Screen getting replaced for BI, My set has been throwing out some weird loud noises when the set is off. It's been constant. Something weird happened the other day when I turned on the TV everything was Dim almost blacked out in a way, had to disconnect the power. Upon turning it back on everything seemed too overly bright even on normal mode, had to do it again and it finally went back to normal. Im going to explain to the tech something is going on behind my panel. Has anyone experienced anything like this? If they take my panel for further fixing how long do they usually stay with it?
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post #35203 of 35900 Old 03-15-2019, 08:22 AM
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I agree with you. This is my #1 gripe, more than motion processing or uniformity. People associate HDR with bright vivid picture. I associate HDR with lower APL and loss of shadow details. It gets to the point that I enjoy 4k SDR more than HDR. HDR is great for stuff like Planet Earth but for a lot of TV and movies, especially on Netflix, it just makes things that are already dark too dark. I can't appreciate the picture if I can't SEE the picture.

Have a look at Vincent Teoh's review of Panasonic's HDR optimiser. I would buy their UHD player just for that feature if it weren't $1000 lol.
The Panasonic 820 at £300 has the same optimisation and adjustment features. Just got one and even 'The Revenant' can now be as bright as you want!
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post #35204 of 35900 Old 03-15-2019, 08:30 AM
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The Panasonic 820 at £300 has the same optimisation and adjustment features. Just got one and even 'The Revenant' can now be as bright as you want!
Interesting, thank you! Does it have Netflix, Prime, Vudu and the HDR optimiser also works on those apps? Also it works for Dolby Vision too, right?

Can it play 4k off USB (if it has USB) or off the network?
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post #35205 of 35900 Old 03-16-2019, 06:45 AM
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I agree with you. This is my #1 gripe, more than motion processing or uniformity. People associate HDR with bright vivid picture. I associate HDR with lower APL and loss of shadow details. It gets to the point that I enjoy 4k SDR more than HDR. HDR is great for stuff like Planet Earth but for a lot of TV and movies, especially on Netflix, it just makes things that are already dark too dark. I can't appreciate the picture if I can't SEE the picture.

Have a look at Vincent Teoh's review of Panasonic's HDR optimiser. I would buy their UHD player just for that feature if it weren't $1000 lol.
HDR is high dynamic range, range being the key. In fact, if you look at the 2 sets of UHD specs you will see that OLED has greater range in total than LCD; LCD is +1 or +2 on the 'bright side' and OLED is +3 or +4 on the dark side. "Come to the dark side."

OLED may not be able to show it's strengths in overly bright rooms, for those with deteriorating eye function, and of course those that prefer Sony levels of unrealistic pop and color ought to stick with LCD. Reality is not for everyone.
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post #35206 of 35900 Old 03-16-2019, 08:25 AM
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HDR is high dynamic range, range being the key. In fact, if you look at the 2 sets of UHD specs you will see that OLED has greater range in total than LCD; LCD is +1 or +2 on the 'bright side' and OLED is +3 or +4 on the dark side. "Come to the dark side."



OLED may not be able to show it's strengths in overly bright rooms, for those with deteriorating eye function, and of course those that prefer Sony levels of unrealistic pop and color ought to stick with LCD. Reality is not for everyone.
Uh yeah, assume it's the user's fault and ignorance.

Go tell Vincent Teoh to get an LCD while you're at it.
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post #35207 of 35900 Old 03-17-2019, 09:58 AM
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Interesting, thank you! Does it have Netflix, Prime, Vudu and the HDR optimiser also works on those apps? Also it works for Dolby Vision too, right?

Can it play 4k off USB (if it has USB) or off the network?
I haven't used any of the apps yet as I have plenty on my TV and this seems more direct to me. I also don't currently have a Netflix account as I only have it for a couple of months in the winter!
It seems from the Panasonic discussion groups that the streaming capabilities of the 820 or 9000 are not the best. The consensus seems to be to use a Firestick or Apple TV for streaming.
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post #35208 of 35900 Old 03-17-2019, 10:04 AM
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I haven't used any of the apps yet as I have plenty on my TV and this seems more direct to me. I also don't currently have a Netflix account as I only have it for a couple of months in the winter!

It seems from the Panasonic discussion groups that the streaming capabilities of the 820 or 9000 are not the best. The consensus seems to be to use a Firestick or Apple TV for streaming.
Yeah the only advantage there would be if the HDR optimiser works on the Panny's streaming apps.
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post #35209 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 01:09 AM
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Yeah the only advantage there would be if the HDR optimiser works on the Panny's streaming apps.
True. I am sure if you ask the question on the Panasonic 820 discussion group they will advise. I believe I have read that the optimiser does work with streaming.
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post #35210 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 04:20 AM
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My HDMI control (CEC, Simplink, whatever) stopped working: when I turn on the TV my Yamaha receiver used to turn on as well and the volume used to be controlled on the AVR by the LG remote. Not anymore. Now the AVR doesn't turn on, and if I turn it on manually, all sound controls on the TV are frozen: I can't change the audio source (TV speakers or ARC) and I can't change the volume (shows a round "not available" icon on the screen). The settings have not changed either on the TV or on the AVR.
I tried to reset completely the input control of the magic remote, it works once (receiver turns on and volume is controlled), but when I turn off with LG remote only the TV turns off, turn TV back on and audio controls are lost again.
It's been driving me crazy.
Any thoughts?
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post #35211 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 05:10 AM
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My HDMI control (CEC, Simplink, whatever) stopped working: when I turn on the TV my Yamaha receiver used to turn on as well and the volume used to be controlled on the AVR by the LG remote. Not anymore. Now the AVR doesn't turn on, and if I turn it on manually, all sound controls on the TV are frozen: I can't change the audio source (TV speakers or ARC) and I can't change the volume (shows a round "not available" icon on the screen). The settings have not changed either on the TV or on the AVR.
I tried to reset completely the input control of the magic remote, it works once (receiver turns on and volume is controlled), but when I turn off with LG remote only the TV turns off, turn TV back on and audio controls are lost again.
Your remote is not the problem, but rather something between the TV and the AVR. Unplug both from the wll power for a minute then plug them back in.
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post #35212 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 05:32 AM
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Your remote is not the problem, but rather something between the TV and the AVR. Unplug both from the wll power for a minute then plug them back in.

already done that last night
no luck
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post #35213 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 05:39 AM
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already done that last night
no luck
Unplug the hdmi cable from one device and make sure that it is seated firmly in the other. Then reconnect. If that does not help try removing power again. If all these do not help then a factory reset of one or both of your decives may be necessary. Try and capture all your customized setting before doing this.


Incidentally, is ARC working (sound from the TV played back thru the AVR when using an internal app on the TV)? I am guessing it is not.
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post #35214 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 06:12 AM
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Unplug the hdmi cable from one device and make sure that it is seated firmly in the other. Then reconnect. If that does not help try removing power again. If all these do not help then a factory reset of one or both of your decives may be necessary. Try and capture all your customized setting before doing this.


Incidentally, is ARC working (sound from the TV played back thru the AVR when using an internal app on the TV)? I am guessing it is not.
I've done all that, I am down to factory reset as last resort.
And you are correct, ARC is not working now. It had worked until yesterday afternoon, I didn't realize it was gone
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post #35215 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 06:18 AM
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I've done all that, I am down to factory reset as last resort.
And you are correct, ARC is not working now. It had worked until yesterday afternoon, I didn't realize it was gone
If you have any other devices that are hdmi connected you should temporarily disconnect them and then do the power removal. When you get ARC working again the other devices can be reconnected.
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post #35216 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 10:56 AM
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It could be the HDMI cable.
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post #35217 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 11:37 AM
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It could be the HDMI cable.
HDMI cable(s) has been the same for over 3 years, inside the wall, almost never disconnected. AudioQuest Pearl, good quality I think.

I performed a factory reset on both TV and AVR (sigh), no luck either.

I tried ARC again with LG native Netflix and with Fire TV (connected on HDMI1 to the LG), does not work (also LG does not automatically switch to FireTV when I press FireTV home button, like it used to). If I go to LG settings with FireTV playing and switch off HDMI-CEC, then back on, ARC audio comes back immediately. Only to be lost again when input is switched.

It really sounds like the HDMI-CEC feature is "broken" on the TV, doesn't sound like an AVR issue.
Help!
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post #35218 of 35900 Old 03-18-2019, 12:11 PM
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Has anyone had issues or experienced a REALLY dark screen upon switching on your B7 / 7 Series? I was about to watch tv with dinner and it was like looking at a negative, everything so dark I could hardly see it.

I tried different inputs etc and ended up having to switch off and on at the mains which seemed to fix it. Absolutely terrified me. My set is from Oct 2017.
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Originally Posted by Owenjohnston View Post
Has anyone had issues or experienced a REALLY dark screen upon switching on your B7 / 7 Series? I was about to watch tv with dinner and it was like looking at a negative, everything so dark I could hardly see it.

I tried different inputs etc and ended up having to switch off and on at the mains which seemed to fix it. Absolutely terrified me. My set is from Oct 2017.
That's never happened to me, and I agree that would be terrifying.

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post #35220 of 35900 Old 03-19-2019, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Owenjohnston View Post
Has anyone had issues or experienced a REALLY dark screen upon switching on your B7 / 7 Series? I was about to watch tv with dinner and it was like looking at a negative, everything so dark I could hardly see it.

I tried different inputs etc and ended up having to switch off and on at the mains which seemed to fix it. Absolutely terrified me. My set is from Oct 2017.
HDMI cables do go bad. I had an Audioquest Forest cable (not as good as your pearl) work for 6 years and then stop working. Although I think there is a decent chance that there may be something wrong with the TV I would try running a new cable (premium certified) just to make sure it isn't the cable.
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