2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1190 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #35671 of 35878 Old 06-05-2019, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
I am almost certain that the reason behind some of the core settings being greyed out is due to the fact that you labeled one or more of the HDMI ports as "PC". My HDMI ports are labeled as HDMI1, HMDI2, etc. - and the picture modes I used are listed in the settings post.

If you are using your LG OLED as a PC monitor - and sharp text rendering is critical - then putting an HDMI port/input into "PC" mode for 4:4:4 (uncompressed) chroma will make sense. Otherwise, keep in mind that all content from the studios - i.e. movies/TV shows/etc. are mastered at 4:2:0 or 4:2:2 MAX, so it is not necessary to force the TV to 4:4:4, as it will have zero impact on the picture/image.
This short article explains it all: https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

Other causes for why settings options are greyed out include:
1) Using the built-in apps for playback of various dynamic range content instead of an HDMI sourced playback - i.e. Blu-ray disc or streamer such as an AppleTV 4K.
2) The configuration/preference files generated by the LG (WebOS) have become corrupted, and a factory reset of either a specific picture mode; i.e. "technicolor Expert", or more likely a full reset of the TV is needed.
So if I understand correctly it is not necessary to have deep color on in any input on the tv unless using a pc?

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post #35672 of 35878 Old 06-05-2019, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by william06 View Post
So if I understand correctly it is not necessary to have deep color on in any input on the tv unless using a pc?
Not exactly. Deep Color tells the TV that you will be sending HDR signals through that particular HDMI port. HDR signals have a wider color range; i.e. Deep Color. Deep Color has nothing to do with Chroma Subsampling which is a color compression method. Without Chroma Subsampling, there would be no way to deliver a 4K/HDR movie to your LG (streaming or disc) because the file size would be ginormous (in the terabytes).

When you send an HDR signal to the LG, it will automatically TOGGLE ON Deep Color, and it is absolutely OK to leave it turned ON even if you are sending SDR signals; i.e. cable/satellite. The TV will know the difference, and will behave accordingly. You can also manually toggle Deep Color ON/OFF by going to SETTINGS/General/HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color.

If you are using your LG as a PC monitor (for doing PC things - working with a lot of text), then changing the HDMI input label to "PC" will force that HDMI port into uncompressed 4:4:4 Chroma full time. As a result, the text on the screen will be very sharp. If the signal is 4K 4:4:4 60Hz, you will not be able to playback any HDR content because that signal will be taking up all the bandwidth.

However, if you are instead using your LG to watch TV/Movies in SDR/HDR/HLG/Dolby Vision, etc. - the source signal will be using Chroma Subsampling at either 4:2:0 or 4:2:2. For video, you will not see any difference picture quality-wise, and you will still enjoy the wider color range that comes with HDR content.

So, I recommend that you re-label that port back to the factory defaults; i.e. HDMI1 - HDMI2 - HDMI3 and enjoy your LG's fantastic picture.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #35673 of 35878 Old 06-05-2019, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Not exactly. Deep Color tells the TV that you will be sending HDR signals through that particular HDMI port. HDR signals have a wider color range; i.e. Deep Color. Deep Color has nothing to do with Chroma Subsampling which is a color compression method. Without Chroma Subsampling, there would be no way to deliver a 4K/HDR movie to your LG (streaming or disc) because the file size would be ginormous (in the terabytes).

When you send an HDR signal to the LG, it will automatically TOGGLE ON Deep Color, and it is absolutely OK to leave it turned ON even if you are sending SDR signals; i.e. cable/satellite. The TV will know the difference, and will behave accordingly. You can also manually toggle Deep Color ON/OFF by going to SETTINGS/General/HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color.

If you are using your LG as a PC monitor (for doing PC things - working with a lot of text), then changing the HDMI input label to "PC" will force that HDMI port into uncompressed 4:4:4 Chroma full time. As a result, the text on the screen will be very sharp. If the signal is 4K 4:4:4 60Hz, you will not be able to playback any HDR content because that signal will be taking up all the bandwidth.

However, if you are instead using your LG to watch TV/Movies in SDR/HDR/HLG/Dolby Vision, etc. - the source signal will be using Chroma Subsampling at either 4:2:0 or 4:2:2. For video, you will not see any difference picture quality-wise, and you will still enjoy the wider color range that comes with HDR content.

So, I recommend that you re-label that port back to the factory defaults; i.e. HDMI1 - HDMI2 - HDMI3 and enjoy your LG's fantastic picture.
Got it and thanks again for your help
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post #35674 of 35878 Old 06-05-2019, 12:26 PM
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Got it and thanks again for your help
For the record, I have the same setup, and you can just use ISF Expert - Dark Room instead of Technicolor Expert, then dial in the same settings. ISF Expert - Dark Room will let you set the gamut to any of the three values. HDR seems to still work fine after the latest update, but note that you won't be able to get 10-bit color at 60 Hz.
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post #35675 of 35878 Old 06-05-2019, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tocirahl View Post
For the record, I have the same setup, and you can just use ISF Expert - Dark Room instead of Technicolor Expert, then dial in the same settings. ISF Expert - Dark Room will let you set the gamut to any of the three values. HDR seems to still work fine after the latest update, but note that you won't be able to get 10-bit color at 60 Hz.
When I ran pre-calibration scans for both ISF Expert - Dark, and technicolor Expert - the accuracy was much better with the technicolor Expert picture mode. You almost didn't need to make any changes to the 2/20 point white balance and the CMS. I could not say the same for ISF Expert. So my basis starting point was closer to reference than ISF Expert - Dark or Light.

Both picture modes look similar to the naked eye, but when you put a meter on the panel and compare they are actually quite different.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #35676 of 35878 Old 06-06-2019, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
When I ran pre-calibration scans for both ISF Expert - Dark, and technicolor Expert - the accuracy was much better with the technicolor Expert picture mode. You almost didn't need to make any changes to the 2/20 point white balance and the CMS. I could not say the same for ISF Expert. So my basis starting point was closer to reference than ISF Expert - Dark or Light.

Both picture modes look similar to the naked eye, but when you put a meter on the panel and compare they are actually quite different.
Huh, really? That's news to me. I don't really care that much about 4:4:4 Chroma, but I do need the lower latency of PC mode. What do you recommend for low-latency + good calibration?
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post #35677 of 35878 Old 06-06-2019, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
Are you sure about the "3-month warranty"? Because if the main part is replaced (like the panel) the warranty should renew (1 or 2 years). It works this way in EU (maybe Your are in the USA). If LG replaced the panel you get new warranty for 2 years again (2 years in EU).
I can vouch for the 3 month warranty on the replacement parts - it's absolutely true and what I was told by LG when I had my panel replaced 3 times.
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post #35678 of 35878 Old 06-06-2019, 02:53 PM
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Huh, really? That's news to me. I don't really care that much about 4:4:4 Chroma, but I do need the lower latency of PC mode. What do you recommend for low-latency + good calibration?
I've only done calibrations for TV/Movies, so I don't know what's the best picture mode and settings for the low latency PC mode.

Sorry.

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
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post #35679 of 35878 Old 06-06-2019, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tocirahl View Post
Huh, really? That's news to me. I don't really care that much about 4:4:4 Chroma, but I do need the lower latency of PC mode. What do you recommend for low-latency + good calibration?
You might want to check P40L0's ongoing efforts to optimise the calibration for latency in both SDR and HDR.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/141-x...l#post56971892
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post #35680 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 06:43 AM
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You might want to check P40L0's ongoing efforts to optimise the calibration for latency in both SDR and HDR.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/141-x...l#post56971892
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
When I ran pre-calibration scans for both ISF Expert - Dark, and technicolor Expert - the accuracy was much better with the technicolor Expert picture mode. You almost didn't need to make any changes to the 2/20 point white balance and the CMS. I could not say the same for ISF Expert. So my basis starting point was closer to reference than ISF Expert - Dark or Light.

Both picture modes look similar to the naked eye, but when you put a meter on the panel and compare they are actually quite different.
Looking over P40L0's calibration files, it appears that he/she believes that ISF Expert - Dark Room and technicolor Expert are close enough that they have the exact same calibration values:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...f4ri1Ngw4/edit

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1..._3XiVPFZA/edit

This makes me inclined to just use SoT's values applied to the ISF Expert mode in PC mode....
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post #35681 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 07:21 AM
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This makes me inclined to just use SoT's values applied to the ISF Expert mode in PC mode....
But the problem with PC mode is that HDR is rendered effectively useless as it can't reproduce 10 bit colour. If you don't need HDR, then go for it.

I tend to ignore the colour and white balance values of these calibration settings anyway. The out-of-box accuracy is so close with these sets, that I feel like you need to pay for a calibration specifically for your set to really get a benefit.
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post #35682 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 07:38 AM
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But the problem with PC mode is that HDR is rendered effectively useless as it can't reproduce 10 bit colour. If you don't need HDR, then go for it.

I tend to ignore the colour and white balance values of these calibration settings anyway. The out-of-box accuracy is so close with these sets, that I feel like you need to pay for a calibration specifically for your set to really get a benefit.
This is simply not true. If you switch over to a 24 Hz refresh rate, you should be able to get 10-bit color even in PC mode.
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post #35683 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 07:54 AM
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This is simply not true. If you switch over to a 24 Hz refresh rate, you should be able to get 10-bit color even in PC mode.
You *should* but you don't.
If I play a HDR Bluray at 24Hz on my XBox in PC mode, then I get 8 bit colour.
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post #35684 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by tocirahl View Post
Looking over P40L0's calibration files, it appears that he/she believes that ISF Expert - Dark Room and technicolor Expert are close enough that they have the exact same calibration values:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...f4ri1Ngw4/edit

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1..._3XiVPFZA/edit

This makes me inclined to just use SoT's values applied to the ISF Expert mode in PC mode....
The ISF picture mode is not interchangeable with technicolor Expert. technicolor Expert uses an alternative white point vs. ISF. ( Don't get me wrong - ISF is a great picture mode, but its behavior is very different when calibrating. ) It takes a lot more adjusting to get ISF's white point correct, and even more adjusting to the CMS. You may notice that my settings are all single digit for 2/20 point, and CMS. That's because technicolor Expert is more accurate at default than ISF, so I don't have to do as much adjusting. I found an old post from October 2017 in which my shared settings were based on an ISF picture mode. Below are the CMS adjustments from that post. As you will see, they are quite a bit different from the technicolor Expert CMS adjustments. In fact a few of them are in the double digits:

COLOR MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
RED - Sat: -12, Tint: 8, Lum: -4
GREEN - Sat: -7, Tint: -30, Lum: -1
BLUE - Sat: -3, Tint: 9, Lum: -1
CYAN - Sat: -11, Tint: 5, Lum: 0
MAGENTA - Sat: -3, Tint: -7, Lum: 0
YELLOW - Sat: -6, Tint: -6, Lum: 1

My advice would be to not make any adjustments to the 2/20 point white balance, nor the CMS as they are not going align with the ISF picture mode you are using. Remember, almost all of my settings are borrowed by P4OLO for his postings and he is not a calibrator.
EDIT: At least the last time I checked.

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700

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post #35685 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 12:37 PM
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Bit of an unexpected oddity. Last night TV hit the 2,000 hour mark. Not one mention of running the magical 2,000 compensation cycle. I was kinda waiting for it as I have developed some good banding over the last couple of months.

Oh well. Just thought it was interesting it didn't happen with the expected prompt I thought was gonna occur.

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post #35686 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 08:08 PM
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All right well thanks for setting me straight everybody. Looks like I'm out of luck...
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post #35687 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tocirahl View Post
All right well thanks for setting me straight everybody. Looks like I'm out of luck...


Any difference you notice is latency is so minuscule as to be irrelevant. PC mode or game mode or anything else are unnecessary.

Also, sharing settings is not calibration. You all might as well be making random changes to random settings. Folks went out and paid for the best TV produced in 2017, yet settle for eyeballing these adjustments. May as well take a Ferrari to a Jiffy Lube.


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post #35688 of 35878 Old 06-07-2019, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post
Any difference you notice is latency is so minuscule as to be irrelevant. PC mode or game mode or anything else are unnecessary.

Also, sharing settings is not calibration. You all might as well be making random changes to random settings. Folks went out and paid for the best TV produced in 2017, yet settle for eyeballing these adjustments. May as well take a Ferrari to a Jiffy Lube.


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LOL, might as well save your bits on that last point. I’ve tried and found its best to just try to find the humor in watching people share white balance and even CMS settings...ya just gotta accept it, laugh, and chalk it up to whatever makes people happy. And it’s not just here, it’s even over in some of the projector threads...😮

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Any difference you notice is latency is so minuscule as to be irrelevant. PC mode or game mode or anything else are unnecessary.
Wrong.
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post #35690 of 35878 Old 06-08-2019, 02:53 AM
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Does the LG B7 support surround passthrough? I have a PS4 connected to the TV via HDMI and a soundbar connected to the TV via HDMI arc, but the PS4 won't show the usual channel settings ("your equipment is capable for 7.1, but you can switch to 5.1 if you want to"). If it does support it, how can I make sure I'm getting 5.1 audio? What settings do I need to change?
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post #35691 of 35878 Old 06-08-2019, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mjwagner View Post
LOL, might as well save your bits on that last point. I’ve tried and found its best to just try to find the humor in watching people share white balance and even CMS settings...ya just gotta accept it, laugh, and chalk it up to whatever makes people happy. And it’s not just here, it’s even over in some of the projector threads...😮
EDIT: Not worth it.
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VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700

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Any difference you notice is latency is so minuscule as to be irrelevant. PC mode or game mode or anything else are unnecessary.
Are you talking about while gaming?

Because competitive shooters are unplayable without game mode for me.
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post #35693 of 35878 Old 06-08-2019, 09:03 AM
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I used Netflix for about 3.5 hours non-stop last night and no issues at all. I connect to my internet provider's Hitron modem/router over 5 Ghz. I've owned my tv for 17 months and never had any streaming issues over wifi.

Maybe the tv needs a full reset?
Had my set professionally calibrated so a reset is a no go. I use a wired connection.
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post #35694 of 35878 Old 06-08-2019, 02:06 PM
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Very unlikely that it is the TV from what you describe. Maybe use optical output instead of ARC? Many of us find that that is far more consistent.

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Hi guys, haven't been here in ages as my set has been fine until the past 2-3 weeks. Streaming DV/HDR/4K Ultra HD I am getting choppy, dropped video particularly action sequences. Tried both Amazon Prime and Netflix. Becomes so garbled it's unwatchable. Using wired connection on B7A and Yamaha receiver. Asus router just turned a year old. I even changed ISP yesterday to get 200mbps down. Did the unplugging and some other changes I detailed in the Yamaha thread.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...l#post58127370

Basically stopping by here to see is anyone else has had choppy audio problems when streaming from built in Netflix or Amazon Prime. After a lot of troubleshooting I finally tried the TV speakers and there were no audio problems. Using ARC and no changes whatsoever for the last year and a half. Audio streaming issue started a couple of weeks ago.

Edit: Popped in a Blu Ray disc and no audio drop or choppiness. But it seems now to point to the TV but since using the TV speakers work I'm not sure what the issue is. Tried Netflix on UHD Blu Ray. No problems.
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post #35695 of 35878 Old 06-08-2019, 03:25 PM
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Had my set professionally calibrated so a reset is a no go. I use a wired connection.
In this case, I would not reset unless you are able to capture and re-enter the calibration settings.

Can't think of any other suggestions. Hopefully, more knowledgeable members will provide further insight or possible solutions.
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post #35696 of 35878 Old 06-09-2019, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post
Any difference you notice is latency is so minuscule as to be irrelevant. PC mode or game mode or anything else are unnecessary.

Also, sharing settings is not calibration. You all might as well be making random changes to random settings. Folks went out and paid for the best TV produced in 2017, yet settle for eyeballing these adjustments. May as well take a Ferrari to a Jiffy Lube.


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I can't use a mouse when the TV is not in game or PC mode. I keep overshooting icons. It's extremely obvious to me when the TV is not in a low latency mode.

As for copying calibrations, would you recommend just resetting all the calibration values to 0?

What would be the best way to watch movies on my htpc with low lag for mouse use as well?
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post #35697 of 35878 Old 06-09-2019, 09:57 PM
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What would be the best way to watch movies on my htpc with low lag for mouse use as well?
My advice is to maintain a separate profile on the TV for low latency mode, and switch between game mode and movie mode using the TV's popup quick menu as required. (Very jealous of the 2019 models that support auto-game-mode switching)

Use the Technicolor profile for watching movies for the best picture accuracy, and then when you want to game, then switch the TV to the Game profile where the picture accuracy is less of a concern, but you get the latency improvement.
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post #35698 of 35878 Old 06-11-2019, 08:10 AM
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All right well thanks for setting me straight everybody. Looks like I'm out of luck...
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Any difference you notice is latency is so minuscule as to be irrelevant. PC mode or game mode or anything else are unnecessary.

Also, sharing settings is not calibration. You all might as well be making random changes to random settings. Folks went out and paid for the best TV produced in 2017, yet settle for eyeballing these adjustments. May as well take a Ferrari to a Jiffy Lube.
Yep, it is true and here is a test about shared calibration settings <<< Click Here >>>
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post #35699 of 35878 Old 06-11-2019, 09:35 AM
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Yep, it is true and here is a test about shared calibration settings <<< Click Here >>>
Please don’t burst their bubble, they really don’t like it...particularly when you use facts...LOL!

Mark
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post #35700 of 35878 Old 06-11-2019, 12:45 PM
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Update to Audio Choppiness

My B7A had audio dropouts and very choppy audio when watching an action movie in Dolby Vision or HDR. Standard movies were fine. All the explosions, gun fights, fast action, amped up soundtrack was causing the problem

I changed my ISP from AT&T 50mpbs to Charter 200+mbps. AT&T tech found some problems and corrected them, but was still a no go. I'm too far away from the VRAD to get anything faster. Watched them install fiber across the street! It's just me and it was solid for 16 months. Bought my own modem instead of free cable modem, Netgear CM600, so I could see what was happening on their side. Charter came out and corrected issues it had like an old TV analog trap filter to keep people from stealing cable back in the day. Was causing a few channels to not lock on and others very low power levels. Everything then tested clean at the pole, the demarcation point and inside. Problem gone. Tested with Jack Ryan later episodes on Prime and Rim of the World on Netflix. Both caused the dropouts before.

So relieved it wasn't my TV or receiver. Just wanted to stop by and thank everyone and to post my fix.
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Last edited by MoInSTL; 06-11-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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