My exact wording regarding the result was "picture is much darker" and "shadow details are pretty much gone".
And here in your own words:
It seems obvious to me the TV is applying a too aggressive tonecurve/tonemap for 4000 MaxMDL content when the MaxCLL of 557 is missing. Not something that I have observed with the same content when its MaxCLL 557 is there or its MaxMDL is changed to 557.

So, please don't reply if you haven't confirmed any of this yourself on the latest firmware. This thread has over 1200 pages, people with actual knowledge will overlook my initial posting because of your dumb one-liner posts that add nothing to the discussion.

Here's another example, just to make it more clear to you:
Changing MaxCLL from 4000 to 800 on R.Masciola's HDR clipping test pattern for 4000 cd/m², while leaving MaxMDL at 4000, will make the TV clip the bars at the 800 cd/m² mark instead of the 4000 cd/m² mark.

It might help if you can point to a specific movie with a 4000 nit MDL and low CLL to illustrate this. Nothing in the firmware release notes says anything about adjusting the HDR, and LG have previously said they don’t believe there’s an issue.

"Underworld: Blood Wars" (MaxMDL 4000, MaxCLL 557) between 00:10:00 and 00:11:00 is what I was referring to, since that movie is very dark and incorrect tonemapping is easy to see here.
I've tested a bunch of other movies as well, like Ant-Man (MaxMDL 4000, MaxCLL 577), The Accountant (MaxMDL 4000, MaxCLL 605), Aquaman (MaxMDL 4000, MaxCLL 1506), but nothing is quite as painfully obvious as Underworld: Blood Wars.

Hence my "Have LG quietly changed this recently?" and "Am I missing something?" if that's not the case.

LG also didn't mention they completely broke tonemapping for 1000nit content, but here we are.

What equipment and software are you using for measurements?

For this alone you don't really need any special equipment except your eyes. The internal USB player is enough.

I've tested it on several C7 and players over HDMI to confirm this isn't just some feature only the internal player has. Someone used a HDFury to confirm the metadata is being passed correctly from these files.

I also have an X-Rite i1Display Pro colorimeter but there's no point in using it for these tests.

I'm not trying to prove I'm right. I'm looking for someone to tell me why I'm wrong because, given LG's track record of abandoning their "old" TVs, I honestly can't believe they'd finally switch to MaxCLL based tonemapping. Surely I must be mistaken about what's going on or maybe this isn't what everyone else was mad about regarding 2017 OLED's tonemapping based on MaxMDL.

I can upload the two short test clips from "Underworld: Blood Wars" so anyone else can see. I believe this is considered as fair use in regards to copyright in the EU, but this is a US-based forum and I'm not sure if it's allowed.

I just tested Ant Man on Disney+ and the image is significantly dimmer with DTM off.

I'm not sure what you're trying to say?

Also, I'm strictly talking UHD-BDs. We have no way of checking what the movie is mastered in or its metadata on Disney+, unless someone has the app on an external device and has it plugged into an HDFury.

I often listen to audio from my LG OLED on bluetooth headphones, via LG Sound Sync Bluetooth. Works great.

But first I need to turn off my AVR (Denon S640H). With the AVR on, no sound goes to phones.

I sometimes watch TV with phones off, so I still want the AVR in the loop. Is there a config for that?

[for extra points: it took a lot of work to synch audio to the TV's video - I can't remember the procedure, but suspect it's related to the above problem. It's synched well now when using AVR, but with AVR off and listening through headphones, there's a disturbing lag I'd love to eliminate]

Updated to 1.1.5 Disney+ app...checked settings, still at 1.1.4 - wondering if they are need to update whatever HTML5 app is running behind the scenes

Yep, it is true and here is a test about shared calibration settings <<< Click Here >>>

I got the 1.1.5 update on my LG yesterday but don’t see any changes that I noticed.

Did you check Settings for the actual version you have?

yes just now see version 1.1.4 still

I've had this problem a few times on Netflix and today had it on Amazon Prime. I was using the internal apps. TV is connected to internet via ethernet with 45Mbps service,
Whilst watching a programme with 5.1 sound the voice channel is inaudible. I can hear the incidental background noises, sound effects etc, and people speaking off camera, but nothing from characters on the screen. It happened on all the programmes I tried to watch on both apps.

On Netflix if I change to just the stereo track for that programme it is ok. There is no such setting on Amazon Prime.

If I switch to internal speakers it is the same so it isn't my cables or AVR.

Tomorrow it'll probably be normal and ok again.

Has anyone else had this?

It happens to me once in a while with Prime too. I ruled out the AVR so it's the TV or app; it definitely started after a Prime app update a few weeks ago. I turn the TV off and on and then it works again.

I have the Disney+ 1.1.5 update. It now has a RESUME function. It works immediately, meaning I was able to resume a show today at where I had left off yesterday (before the RESUME function was there.) But no magic remote or audio fixes with this update.

Thanks for that. Turning on and off didn't work for me so turned it off at the wall switch for a few hours and I'll see if clearing the cache will help tonight.
Definitely the TV or its apps as my Sony X700 UHD Blu-ray player plays perfectly with its Netflix and Amazon Prime apps.

That's the announced universal "pause/resume" (UI Layer) update (for all D+ platforms).

The streaming services often design/code their client apps into 2 (or more) layers, usually a (installed) core/platform specific layer and a (downloadable) UI layer - this allows them to change the UI and its content without having to do a complete client app update.

(Some client app platforms like WebOS allow for the entire app to be remotely hosted/downloaded with just a stub/redirector installed on the client platform device)

Check your D+ version internally (within D+ under Settings) - If its still 1.1.4xxxx-1.1.a+0xx then you still have 1.1.4

There was another Prime app update released overnight/today - see if it addresses the issue.

There is a known bug/issue with (especially more recent) firmware versions of occasional loss of audio during playback for internal apps - sometimes pressing pause/play fixes it, sometimes rewind+pause+play fixes it, sometimes exiting+restarting the app fixes it, sometimes switching to a different input and back fixes it, etc.

Im a little bit late, but i got the July 2019 LG B7/C7 firmware update prompt for 05.80.35.

Has this firmware update introduced any known problems on the B7/C7 TV´s?

And what has it updated, i read something about a security update? Also i read something about DV in this thread?

Yeah you're right. When I look at the app in the LG my apps page it says it's 1.1.5, but inside the Disney+ app it still says 1.1.4. Can't wait to get Atmos support. I'm waiting to watch the Star Wars trilogy in Dolby Vision until we get Atmos as well.

What's the easiest/best way to use the TV apps, and have the audio come from my AVR?


I already have an HDMI going from the TV to the AVR, but currently I use my bluray player to access apps, and switch the input on the AVR to bluray.


TYIA

HDMI ARC from TV>AVR you’ll need to enable this (ARC) on both TV and AVR.

While watching The Mandalorian, I have noticed a lot of ghosting with pretty much any movement. Like a trail effect. How do I turn this off? I have only seen it with this particular show.

That is not happening on my panel. Do you have your motion turned off?

Motion Eye Care and TruMotion are both off.

is resetting the TV back to factory defaults safe?...I know all my custom settings will get erased but I wrote them all down so it's not a big deal...I changed receivers (ended up returning it) and now the inputs on my TV are a bit screwy...it added a BD input which is the default selection forcing me to manually change inputs every time I turn on my display...there doesn't seem a way to delete it (I can re-name it but that's not what I want)

So I’ve noticed an issue recently with this set and I’m not sure how to fix it. I’ve noticed during prolonged dark scenes my set will eventually get wayyyyyy darker and stay that way until either a brighter scene occurs, or I stop what I’m watching and start it again. How do I fix this?

Turn off ASBL in service menu (google).

Yes.