2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1224 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #36691 of 36895 Old 12-12-2019, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ToonMasterTim View Post
Since the update, I have started to experience ARC issues. Namely, audio dropouts watching Dolby Vision content via Netflix. And sometimes, ARC isn't found as a source for audio. I have a Samsung HW-N950 and it won't see ARC as a source even though I'll be playing content from the apps on the TV, and it affects devices plugged into the TVs HDMI ports, as well. I saw complaints elsewhere about this, but nothing in these forums, so far.
FYI - ARC only works on HDMI 2 But, it stops working randomly, which is discussed all over this forum, so it may just be coincidence that it coincided with this update.
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post #36692 of 36895 Old 12-12-2019, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ToonMasterTim View Post
I have a Samsung HW-N950 and it won't see ARC as a source even though I'll be playing content from the apps on the TV, and it affects devices plugged into the TVs HDMI ports, as well.
Thanks for the heads up. I have the N950 too and I don't want to screw up my ATMOS via ARC. At this point in time, IMO, the 7 series is fine as is. I take the, "if it's not broke, don't fix it" mentality when it comes to these updates.

I'm not using any TV apps like you mentioned, so maybe it only affects those, but it's not worth the risk of updating to find out.

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Last edited by PlasmaHiDef; 12-12-2019 at 06:44 AM.
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post #36693 of 36895 Old 12-12-2019, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by NightHawk View Post
Thanks. I didn't think so but I couldn't tell for certain if the two clear windows on either side of the red light were some type of camera device. Just IR sensors I hope. The rep at LG customer service also said no, but kept prefacing his answer with the word "technically".

I taped over the camera on my bedroom Samsung. Paranoid these days.
Paranoid? I think not.........Have you ever thought about how many times you are caught on camera per day? Well, eyes on you almost everywhere! You are caught ”in the act” on CCTV camera every day. According to reports, a Londoner is likely caught on security camera over 300 times a day, which is the highest in UK; and an American citizen can be caught on camera more than 75 times per day!
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post #36694 of 36895 Old 12-12-2019, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince2008 View Post
[05.80.50]

1. Add HEVC logo to user guide


Gotta be more in here than that. Glad LG supports it but what else??


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post #36695 of 36895 Old 12-12-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ChicagoChris View Post
Gotta be more in here than that. Glad LG supports it but what else??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That’s all that’s listed, not sure what you’re looking for.
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post #36696 of 36895 Old 12-13-2019, 12:13 PM
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Any tips on my problem welcomed..


- C7 stopped streaming anything: Netflix, Iplayer, Plex. Could still access these services, browse content etc, but no-streamy for me.
- uninstalled and reinstalled each app, same problem remained
- Modem/router was reset, just in case. But phones, laptop etc all stream perfectly
- Tried to update firmware, was informed set was up to date.

- Following advice elsewhere online, selected 'Reset to Initial Settings' from the general menu
- Spinning balls appeared, as if the TV was processing something. Kept spinning...

- After five hours, I gave up and turned off the set.
- Now the TV turns on from stand-by and goes straight to black-screen with spinning balls


TV is eighteen months old, never skipped a beat. Any suggestions what to do next?
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post #36697 of 36895 Old 12-13-2019, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Stokes View Post
Any tips on my problem welcomed..


- C7 stopped streaming anything: Netflix, Iplayer, Plex. Could still access these services, browse content etc, but no-streamy for me.
- uninstalled and reinstalled each app, same problem remained
- Modem/router was reset, just in case. But phones, laptop etc all stream perfectly
- Tried to update firmware, was informed set was up to date.

- Following advice elsewhere online, selected 'Reset to Initial Settings' from the general menu
- Spinning balls appeared, as if the TV was processing something. Kept spinning...

- After five hours, I gave up and turned off the set.
- Now the TV turns on from stand-by and goes straight to black-screen with spinning balls


TV is eighteen months old, never skipped a beat. Any suggestions what to do next?
Disconnect the power for a few minutes.

I'm not optimistic, but it will do no harm.
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post #36698 of 36895 Old 12-13-2019, 01:02 PM
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thanks


Apologies for being a newbie-in-need ! It's been a great set and always gets admiring comments. I'm gutted that its messing me about, so close to the Christmas break too....
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post #36699 of 36895 Old 12-14-2019, 08:07 AM
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New firmware has seemingly fixed ARC problems i was having with my soundbar. No more intermittent disconnections or it not turning on with the TV.
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post #36700 of 36895 Old 12-14-2019, 04:14 PM
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For those interested, I seemed to have found a bug/way to set Real Cinema to off when in the HDR picture mode for Technicolor expert, as of the last FW update.

Go into Cinema Home first and disable TruMotion / set to off. Exit menu. Hold the gear button on the remote to bring up the menu, select your current picture mode until the smaller picture mode list comes up. Then start at the top, select vivid, then standard, then the next ones, all the way down, skipping game, then lastly select Technicolor Expert. Then click the back arrow and you’ll be in the Technicolor picture mode and when you go to picture options, you be able to toggle RC off and on.

Edit: Clarified steps.

Edit 2: These steps worked when on my Xbox One X with an HDR game on.

Last edited by themcbrooms; 12-15-2019 at 01:19 PM.
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post #36701 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by themcbrooms View Post
For those interested, I seemed to have found a bug/way to set Real Cinema to off when in the HDR picture mode for Technicolor expert, as of the last FW update.

Go into Cinema Home first and disable TruMotion / set to off. Exit menu. Hold the gear button on the remote to bring up the menu, select your current picture mode until the smaller picture mode list comes up. Then start at the top, select vivid, then standard, then the next ones, all the way down, skipping game, then lastly select Technicolor Expert. Then click the back arrow and you’ll be in the Technicolor picture mode and when you go to picture options, you be able to toggle RC off and on.

Edit: Clarified steps.
Doesn't work for me. Still greyed out. But I have another way of disabling it for Technicolor and cinema hdr modes. Discovered by a user on resetera forums. You need a hdfury device and a pc. Basically, go to the real cinema option while outputting hdr 60hz from a pc output. Then change the refresh rate to any other compatible one, like 50hz. You'll notice while changing the refresh rate the real cinema option is exposed for a split second. Keep changing the refresh rates until the option is no longer greyed out. You can then manually change the real cinema setting while it's exposed. After changing inputs the option greys out, but the setting will stick. This method works for standard, cinema and Technicolor hdr modes. I can now game using the best image quality, without the atrocious lag associated with the rc setting

If you do these steps with a hdfury device connected the screen blanks out longer when changing refresh rates. Without a linker box connected the TV blanks between settings too quickly, and its quite a bit harder to get the menu to bug out. Without a hdfury device I think it's still possible to use this method. You may have to change refresh rates many times to get the glitch. Make sure to keep the real cinema option on the display while the refresh rate is being changed

Last edited by amdfanTO; 12-15-2019 at 09:30 AM.
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post #36702 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 10:03 AM
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Real Cinema should be on, not off...

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post #36703 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 01:17 PM
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Real Cinema should be on, not off...
In a perfect world, yes.

It is debatable for some, for these sets. Some don’t see it, but there is something *off with the cadence with LG’s Real Cinema implementation that feels like motion interpolation is happening for some scenes. Compared to a calibrated plasma, the motion is just wrong and RC off has better motion especially when being fed 24fps. Again, some don’t see it, but for those that do, they want RC off. This gives that option.

Also some like the other presets better for gaming, and RC off cuts down on the input lag.
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post #36704 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 01:21 PM
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Doesn't work for me. Still greyed out.
Confirmed again my steps above work, but I was on my Xbox One X with an HDR game on. That might be part of the equation as well.
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post #36705 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 02:10 PM
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Hi
So if the ARC unreliable do you think the optical cable will do the job with Netflix I mean all the type of sound format.
Specially my distance is 50 feet.
Thank you.
hi
any one have idea about this
thank you all.
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post #36706 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 03:58 PM
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hi

any one have idea about this

thank you all.


Unless you have Atmos AVR/speaker setup and want DD++ then optical is probably fine.
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post #36707 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 05:46 PM
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Should i update the firmware?

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post #36708 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 06:05 PM
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Should i update the firmware?


Yes, unless answer is no. If you want/need to update the internal apps to use them, then you have no choice. If you’re not having any issues, then there is almost never a “need”.
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post #36709 of 36895 Old 12-15-2019, 09:22 PM
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Should i update the firmware?
My approach is NO, unless I have a problem that the new firmware solves. Otherwise, why mess with something that ain't broken?

Plus, I paid good money for dnice to calibrate my set and the last thing I want to do is mess with that in any way....
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post #36710 of 36895 Old 12-16-2019, 03:03 AM
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^ Just focusing on if a calibration will be affected by any firmware update, based on what jrref has said in the past, it's pretty safe to say that it won't be affected.

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Originally Posted by jrref View Post
I've only seen an update effect the calibration once in my time calibrating. The only time you can "potentially" run into trouble is if you make unconventional adjustments to work around a deficiency and then the manufacturer puts out an update to fix it. And then, it's a "maybe" that it will effect things negatively.
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post #36711 of 36895 Old 12-16-2019, 05:42 AM
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^ Just focusing on if a calibration will be affected by any firmware update, based on what jrref has said in the past, it's pretty safe to say that it won't be affected.
Except it did on these 2017 OLEDs. 1000nits signals (the majority of movies) is completely bonkers and is nowhere near close to PQ EOTF as it used to be. They also added MaxCLL tracking instead of MaxMDL (a good change) but that's nowhere in the firmware logs. They also changed the behavior of Active HDR (dynamic tone mapping) and never mentioned it. So the log they provide with their updates is pretty much useless.
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post #36712 of 36895 Old 12-16-2019, 08:13 AM
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Except it did on these 2017 OLEDs. 1000nits signals (the majority of movies) is completely bonkers and is nowhere near close to PQ EOTF as it used to be. They also added MaxCLL tracking instead of MaxMDL (a good change) but that's nowhere in the firmware logs. They also changed the behavior of Active HDR (dynamic tone mapping) and never mentioned it. So the log they provide with their updates is pretty much useless.

What did they change with Active HDR?
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post #36713 of 36895 Old 12-16-2019, 10:51 AM
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What did they change with Active HDR?
I'm not an experienced user of Active HDR since back then when I got the TV in 2017, I found it to boost shadows way too much in certain sitatuations, so I turned it off and never used it again. When the 2018 models released Vincent Teoh confirmed my observations.

So 2 changes I have observed about Active HDR/DTM since then:

1) And this is certain: There seems to be a threshold now on how much DTM will deviate from the initially chosen tonemapping curve. What that means is, if the metadata says "max 1300 nits" and there's a scene with 3500nits what the Active HDR would use to do is apply an aggressive tonecurve and rolloff in that scene (further dimming shadows and midtones and rolling off sooner so highlights are visible and not clipped). This behavior is what some users over at the HDFury thread used to their advantage to overcome the dim 4000nits tonecurve on these TVs - they'd override the 4000nits signal with something like 600nits so the TV applies its normal tonemapping curve (that is basically very close to PQ EOTF) and then enable DTM which would kick in for those 4000nits scenes and only then apply that dim tonecurve.
This 'workaround' no longer works. Active HDR will basically only add another hundred nits over the metadata value and just clip everything above that. So sending a signal of 600 nits instead of 4000 with DTM enabled, will give you a brighter picture but as soon as specular highlights come into play you'll have severe clipping.

2) I have a suspicion they added the Active HDR behavior from 2018 models to 2017 models in the same update when they added the MaxCLL tracking from 2018 models. Someone else with a 2018 model would need to do some proper testing to confirm this. But using the same scene Vincent Teoh used in the comparison above (it's Sicario at 01:37:00 for anyone interested, and it's a movie with 4000 mastering data and no MaxCLL so it benefits enormously from DTM in that scene) the change between Active HDR off and on on my C7 looks a lot like the change between his C8 when DTM is off and on and not as drastic as the change on his C7 between off and on. Of course, it's hard to compare over the internet like this but I have no other way to test this right now. Given this and my past experience from the early Active HDR implementation on my TV, I wouldn't be surprised if LG added the 2018 DTM implementation algorithm to our 2017 models, like they did with the tonemapping curve for MaxCLL data.

Last edited by suarsg; 12-16-2019 at 11:21 AM.
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post #36714 of 36895 Old 12-16-2019, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by suarsg View Post
I'm not an experienced user of Active HDR since back then when I got the TV in 2017, I found it to boost shadows way too much in certain sitatuations, so I turned it off and never used it again. When the 2018 models released Vincent Teoh confirmed my observations.

So 2 changes I have observed about Active HDR/DTM since then:

1) And this is certain: There seems to be a threshold now on how much DTM will deviate from the initially chosen tonemapping curve. What that means is, if the metadata says "max 1300 nits" and there's a scene with 3500nits what the Active HDR would use to do is apply an aggressive tonecurve and rolloff in that scene (further dimming shadows and midtones and rolling off sooner so highlights are visible and not clipped). This behavior is what some users over at the HDFury thread used to their advantage to overcome the dim 4000nits tonecurve on these TVs - they'd override the 4000nits signal with something like 600nits so the TV applies its normal tonemapping curve (that is basically very close to PQ EOTF) and then enable DTM which would kick in for those 4000nits scenes and only then apply that dim tonecurve.
This 'workaround' no longer works. Active HDR will basically only add another hundred nits over the metadata value and just clip everything above that. So sending a signal of 600 nits instead of 4000 with DTM enabled, will give you a brighter picture but as soon as specular highlights come into play you'll have severe clipping.

2) I have a suspicion they added the Active HDR behavior from 2018 models to 2017 models in the same update when they added the MaxCLL tracking from 2018 models. Someone else with a 2018 model would need to do some proper testing to confirm this. But using the same scene Vincent Teoh used in the comparison above (it's Sicario at 01:37:00 for anyone interested, and it's a movie with 4000 mastering data and no MaxCLL so it benefits enormously from DTM in that scene) the change between Active HDR off and on on my C7 looks a lot like the change between his C8 when DTM is off and on and not as drastic as the change on his C7 between off and on. Of course, it's hard to compare over the internet like this but I have no other way to test this right now. Given this and my past experience from the early Active HDR implementation on my TV, I wouldn't be surprised if LG added the 2018 DTM implementation algorithm to our 2017 models, like they did with the tonemapping curve for MaxCLL data.

Weird.


I always keep brightness at 49 with DTM on to aleaviate the blown out shadow detail, which I think does a pretty good job and looks very close to DV eyeballing the same material. Still looks good, imo.
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post #36715 of 36895 Old 12-17-2019, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by suarsg View Post
I'm not an experienced user of Active HDR since back then when I got the TV in 2017, I found it to boost shadows way too much in certain sitatuations, so I turned it off and never used it again. When the 2018 models released Vincent Teoh confirmed my observations.

So 2 changes I have observed about Active HDR/DTM since then:

1) And this is certain: There seems to be a threshold now on how much DTM will deviate from the initially chosen tonemapping curve. What that means is, if the metadata says "max 1300 nits" and there's a scene with 3500nits what the Active HDR would use to do is apply an aggressive tonecurve and rolloff in that scene (further dimming shadows and midtones and rolling off sooner so highlights are visible and not clipped). This behavior is what some users over at the HDFury thread used to their advantage to overcome the dim 4000nits tonecurve on these TVs - they'd override the 4000nits signal with something like 600nits so the TV applies its normal tonemapping curve (that is basically very close to PQ EOTF) and then enable DTM which would kick in for those 4000nits scenes and only then apply that dim tonecurve.
This 'workaround' no longer works. Active HDR will basically only add another hundred nits over the metadata value and just clip everything above that. So sending a signal of 600 nits instead of 4000 with DTM enabled, will give you a brighter picture but as soon as specular highlights come into play you'll have severe clipping.

2) I have a suspicion they added the Active HDR behavior from 2018 models to 2017 models in the same update when they added the MaxCLL tracking from 2018 models. Someone else with a 2018 model would need to do some proper testing to confirm this. But using the same scene Vincent Teoh used in the comparison above (it's Sicario at 01:37:00 for anyone interested, and it's a movie with 4000 mastering data and no MaxCLL so it benefits enormously from DTM in that scene) the change between Active HDR off and on on my C7 looks a lot like the change between his C8 when DTM is off and on and not as drastic as the change on his C7 between off and on. Of course, it's hard to compare over the internet like this but I have no other way to test this right now. Given this and my past experience from the early Active HDR implementation on my TV, I wouldn't be surprised if LG added the 2018 DTM implementation algorithm to our 2017 models, like they did with the tonemapping curve for MaxCLL data.
Still looks great with any content and mastering currently.
Did you notice further differences between firmware v5.80.35 and latest v5.80.50?
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post #36716 of 36895 Old 12-17-2019, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by suarsg View Post
I'm not an experienced user of Active HDR since back then when I got the TV in 2017, I found it to boost shadows way too much in certain sitatuations, so I turned it off and never used it again. When the 2018 models released Vincent Teoh confirmed my observations.

So 2 changes I have observed about Active HDR/DTM since then:

1) And this is certain: There seems to be a threshold now on how much DTM will deviate from the initially chosen tonemapping curve. What that means is, if the metadata says "max 1300 nits" and there's a scene with 3500nits what the Active HDR would use to do is apply an aggressive tonecurve and rolloff in that scene (further dimming shadows and midtones and rolling off sooner so highlights are visible and not clipped). This behavior is what some users over at the HDFury thread used to their advantage to overcome the dim 4000nits tonecurve on these TVs - they'd override the 4000nits signal with something like 600nits so the TV applies its normal tonemapping curve (that is basically very close to PQ EOTF) and then enable DTM which would kick in for those 4000nits scenes and only then apply that dim tonecurve.
This 'workaround' no longer works. Active HDR will basically only add another hundred nits over the metadata value and just clip everything above that. So sending a signal of 600 nits instead of 4000 with DTM enabled, will give you a brighter picture but as soon as specular highlights come into play you'll have severe clipping.

2) I have a suspicion they added the Active HDR behavior from 2018 models to 2017 models in the same update when they added the MaxCLL tracking from 2018 models. Someone else with a 2018 model would need to do some proper testing to confirm this. But using the same scene Vincent Teoh used in the comparison above (it's Sicario at 01:37:00 for anyone interested, and it's a movie with 4000 mastering data and no MaxCLL so it benefits enormously from DTM in that scene) the change between Active HDR off and on on my C7 looks a lot like the change between his C8 when DTM is off and on and not as drastic as the change on his C7 between off and on. Of course, it's hard to compare over the internet like this but I have no other way to test this right now. Given this and my past experience from the early Active HDR implementation on my TV, I wouldn't be surprised if LG added the 2018 DTM implementation algorithm to our 2017 models, like they did with the tonemapping curve for MaxCLL data.
That's interesting speculation and logical analyses. And big news if true.

I haven't noticed this in actual content and don't have the means to measure but it seems unlikely they would do that now. They have been pretty parsimonious with updating features.

Seems like Vincent might be interested in testing this. Maybe if we start a write in campaign.

My guess is that some of our top calibrators who see these sets in the field all the time such as @D-Nice would have already noticed this on their latest tune up gigs.
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post #36717 of 36895 Old 12-17-2019, 01:42 PM
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Hey all, I have a general question related to professional calibration and this set:

I just got my very first professional calibration done from a reputable calibrator in the area. My concern is, if I accept future software updates for this set, will it wipe out the calibration and set it back to factory default? I'm referring to the expert controls area.

LG OLED55C7P | Sony 75X950G | LG UP970 | Apple TV 4K | Pioneer VSX-1121
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post #36718 of 36895 Old 12-17-2019, 02:07 PM
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At this stage of the game for the 7 series that's extremely unlikely.

There will be little to no updates to the basic function of this TV. It's just too old at this point.
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Current TVs: 77" LG C9, 65" LG B7A, 55" TCL R625, 65” GT50 Plasma
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post #36719 of 36895 Old 12-17-2019, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeJHooK View Post
Hey all, I have a general question related to professional calibration and this set:



I just got my very first professional calibration done from a reputable calibrator in the area. My concern is, if I accept future software updates for this set, will it wipe out the calibration and set it back to factory default? I'm referring to the expert controls area.


No, it will have no impact. Your calibration will be intact.
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LG OLED65C7P - Professionally Calibrated l Apple TV 4K l Microsoft Xbox One S l Sony STR-ZA1100ES l Polk Audio CS2 Series II Center Channel l Polk Audio Monitor 60 Series II Floorstanding L/R l Polk Audio Monitor 45B Rear Surround l Dual BIC V1220 Subwoofers
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post #36720 of 36895 Old 12-17-2019, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeJHooK View Post
Hey all, I have a general question related to professional calibration and this set:

I just got my very first professional calibration done from a reputable calibrator in the area. My concern is, if I accept future software updates for this set, will it wipe out the calibration and set it back to factory default? I'm referring to the expert controls area.
I would have agreed with the consensus that you don't need to worry at all, but then @suarsg just posted a detailed speculation that the most recent firmware update fundamentally changed how the set responds to HDR EOTF so I guess the safe answer is to turn off auto updates after calibration and don't update unless it solves a problem you have and are willing to risk it impacting your calibration?
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