2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 1227 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #36781 of 37448 Old 12-25-2019, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ToonMasterTim View Post
OK. I know about the close Netflix option, but I couldn't get the Netflix app to respond at all. I will try the other option next time, but I thought that would delete the app, not relaunch it. But, I suppose that will work.

Option 1) Closes and relaunches NF - dont confuse:
A) Sidebar/Exit or
B) Sidebar/Settings/Exit or
C) Sidebar/Settings/Get Help/Relaunch

- they are not the same (all 3 are different). A) exits the app but saves state (effectively its still open but multitasked away from); B) exits the app completely (no saved state); the third exits completely (no saved state) and relaunches.

Option 2) Make sure you are in another app/input before you do this (if you are currently in NF it wont appear in the WebOS taskbar and you wont be able to close it)

In order to delete NF you have to go into taskbar Edit Mode (extreme right of taskbar), scroll to NF, then click the X above it (you'll get a deletion prompt). Be sure to turn the TV off, and remove power for at least 30 seconds (hold the power button too for 30 secs to drain any residual) if you delete an app (and even that doesn't fully guarantee the data/cache for it will be removed, but that's a different issue).
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post #36782 of 37448 Old 12-25-2019, 02:22 PM
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I have been searching and can't find my answer. I had my C7 calibrated 2 years ago and I just moved it to another room. I forgot which inputs I was using and noticed on 2 HDMI inputs I have isf Day and isf Night and the other 2 I have isf Expert Bright Room and isf Expert Dark Room. Can I assume the HDMI ports with isf Expert were the inputs that were calibrated? I though the calibration and mode went across all inputs? I assume "Apply to all Inputs" only works when there is a same picture mode on the other inputs?

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post #36783 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
I have been searching and can't find my answer. I had my C7 calibrated 2 years ago and I just moved it to another room. I forgot which inputs I was using and noticed on 2 HDMI inputs I have isf Day and isf Night and the other 2 I have isf Expert Bright Room and isf Expert Dark Room. Can I assume the HDMI ports with isf Expert were the inputs that were calibrated? I though the calibration and mode went across all inputs? I assume "Apply to all Inputs" only works when there is a same picture mode on the other inputs?
Normally calibrators use the ISF modes to calibrate - most use the ARC HDMI (HDMI 2) input for the connection if the signal is from the AVR. I am using HDMI 2 & 3 (one from AVR and one for ROKU) and the mode are the same ISF expert dark/bright, technicolor & HDR mode.

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post #36784 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bob brennan View Post
Normally calibrators use the ISF modes to calibrate - most use the ARC HDMI (HDMI 2) input for the connection if the signal is from the AVR. I am using HDMI 2 & 3 (one from AVR and one for ROKU) and the mode are the same ISF expert dark/bright, technicolor & HDR mode.
Thanks. I just found it odd that the ISF modes were only on 2 inputs, I guess I assumed once they were enabled they were are for all inputs. Just odd that 2 inputs have Expert modes and no ISF modes and the other 2 have 2 ISF modes and no expert modes.

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post #36785 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
Thanks. I just found it odd that the ISF modes were only on 2 inputs, I guess I assumed once they were enabled they were are for all inputs. Just odd that 2 inputs have Expert modes and no ISF modes and the other 2 have 2 ISF modes and no expert modes.
I'm using HDMI 2 & 3 (not using 1 & 4) and the have all the modes I noted "ISF expert dark/bright, technicolor & HDR mode"

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post #36786 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 05:14 AM
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@kluken When I had my C7 Pro calibrated, before he began, all 4 inputs (+plus internal Pic Modes) were labelled ISF Expert Bright/Dark. After he finished, he entered a 4-digit code with the LG remote while within the user menu for the Pic Mode, which locked them and renamed them to ISF Day/Night. This was to prevent accidental changes. The mode can be unlocked again (to alter, or to transfer to addition inputs), but you'll need the 4-digit remote code to enter.

The above is relative to my EU Model C7, I assume that translates to other regions
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post #36787 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bumrush View Post
Anyone have a strange issue where spoken voice gets muted and the background noise is all you hear? My 65B7A does this with both the internal speakers and my sound bar.. now here is the weird thing. In Netflix if I select English original vs English 5.1 it works. On OTA broadcasts if I select Spanish I can hear the sound ? Very very bizarre and I can't figure out what's going on.
It's a Dolby sound processing issue, I posted about this upthread. Weird thing is that the center channel does come back on its own after a while, sometimes.

Only fix I've seen is to power reset the TV.
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post #36788 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 06:20 AM
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Does anyone know whether you can register two Magic Remotes to work with one TV? I've tried this in the past and only one works. My wife likes to have her own remote on the other side of the room.
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post #36789 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 07:22 AM
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Does anyone know whether you can register two Magic Remotes to work with one TV? I've tried this in the past and only one works. My wife likes to have her own remote on the other side of the room.
If two Magic Remotes don't work (I suspect they don't), you could get a universal remote like a Logitech Harmony as a second remote. The TV has an IR-receiver and it works along with the Magic Remote.
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post #36790 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 07:27 AM
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Does anyone know whether you can register two Magic Remotes to work with one TV? I've tried this in the past and only one works. My wife likes to have her own remote on the other side of the room.
yes, as if you lose the one you have, you would need another.If the one you have is defective you would need another.
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post #36791 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 08:38 AM
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It doesn’t matter if MaxCLL tracking is including in game mode because game console don’t send any metadata to the TV, so it’s always going to be dim.

MaxCLL is only helpful for movies like Goodfellas, where it had a MaxMDL of 4000 nits but MaxCLL of 200 nits. It would previously appear dim, but presumably now it won’t. If the MaxMDL and MaxCLL are both 4000 nits, the picture will still be dim because of LG’s stupid tone curve on these TVs, and this will always apply to game consoles as well until they actually adjust the tone curve, not just what metadata it looks at.
It matters also for HDR Game preset, as this way we can just leave HDR Game set (which is identical to HDR Cinema using same settings) also for movie watching from console (4K/HDR Blurays and Streaming), without changing presets every time.

Last edited by P40L0; 12-26-2019 at 08:58 AM.
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post #36792 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by liberator72 View Post
@kluken When I had my C7 Pro calibrated, before he began, all 4 inputs (+plus internal Pic Modes) were labelled ISF Expert Bright/Dark. After he finished, he entered a 4-digit code with the LG remote while within the user menu for the Pic Mode, which locked them and renamed them to ISF Day/Night. This was to prevent accidental changes. The mode can be unlocked again (to alter, or to transfer to addition inputs), but you'll need the 4-digit remote code to enter.

The above is relative to my EU Model C7, I assume that translates to other regions
Thanks. I figured this out. Seems when I had my TV calibrated only HDMI 2 was calibrated and thus that input is the one with isf Day and Nigh Modes and they are locked down. Is there a way to get those calibrated modes copied to the other inputs?

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post #36793 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
Thanks. I figured this out. Seems when I had my TV calibrated only HDMI 2 was calibrated and thus that input is the one with isf Day and Nigh Modes and they are locked down. Is there a way to get those calibrated modes copied to the other inputs?
Yes, but you'll need the 4 digit lock code for the ISF picture modes. I don't recall it from the top of my head, but I did find it through Google at one point. I've since fully reset my C7 as I calibrate it myself now and don't bother locking the modes.

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post #36794 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 04:07 PM
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ALL LG 2017 OLEDs Calibrated Settings for Xbox One X / PS4 Pro updated to V8

After a long while since the latest full test of all profiles with latest TV and Console firmwares, I decided to re-check and re-calibrate all the recommended profiles (SDR/HDR/DV) and came back with additional considerations and improvements upon the v7 ones.

It's highly recommended that you use the "Reset" button for each profile to safely restore default settings (also erasing WB/CMS values), then re-dial the new V8 recommendations

Main Changes
:
  • (Non-Game modes) SDR preferred profile is back to ISF EXPERT (DARK ROOM) as noticeably closer to standard references;
  • (Non-Game modes) TruMotion (De-Blur; De-Judder: 0) is no more necessary to fix motion handling as LG seems to have fixed it with latest firmware by only enabling RealCinema
  • (ALL) SDR Contrast value was increased from 85 to 98: this is the highest value I measured without white starting clipping and without any noticeable black crush. This higher contrast will much improve SDR contents (both Movies and Games) and will provide results much closer to HDR presentations;
  • All White Balance and CMS values was removed as LG changed something with latest firmware + different people were reporting different results/tints. As stated initially: It's highly recommended that you use the "Reset" button for each profile to safely restore default settings (and erasing WB/CMS values), then re-dial the new V8 recommendations for each one to be sure to have the best PQ;
  • Dolby Vision GAME preset has become my primary recommendation for everything (it's bright as DV Cinema Home, but more accurate when setup correctly and without bugs as "white-flashing"), therefore USB patches for DV Cinema are no more needed (also for the reasons above);
  • Added PS4 Pro recommended Output Settings.

Enjoy, and let me know what you think!

-P

After finally having found some time to enjoy my 55B7V during these Christmas holydays, here an additional v8.1 update for you!
Many little tweaks in most profiles + a brand new Option for HDR gaming. You can find the full changelog below.

Enjoy and have an Happy New Year!

v8.1 Changelog:
  • New Option 2b added for HDR gaming! This is a new try to revitalize the "PC Mode/Input Icon" alternative for gaming, and it basically consist in using the pure and most accurate/calibrated "HDR Game" preset with no Dynamic Contrast enhancement at all. The main advantage is keeping 21ms low input lag in HDR (opposed to the 40-ish ms of PC HDR Standard) for those people who prefer "PC Mode" for its superior SDR + 4:4:4 + RGB Limited + ISF Preset compared to SDR Game. The "pure" HDR Game (with no DC) should also look perfectly bright for all the best and/or recent HDR games which allow setting peak HDR Brightness value to 4.000 and/or Paper White to 200 and/or White Point to 0.9; it will also look good with all 1.000 nits contents and also 4.000 nits HDR Movies and TV Shows with lower MaxCLL, which should be the majority (thanks to recent LG silent improvements to HDR Cinema/Technicolor/Game presets' MaxCLL tracking). Dimness issues should be limited with games/movies mastered at 4.000 or 10.000 nits with no sliders control at all, with no MaxCLL values or MaxCLL values extremely high (minority of cases, but still possible);
  • When using Option 2 and PC Mode in general (SDR/HDR/DV) it is crucial to disable/uncheck 4:2:2 chroma subsampling and stick to 4:2:0 in order to avoid severe color banding in all modes. This was reflected in the docs by unchecking 422 on X1X and selecting 2160P YUV420 resolution on PS4 Pro;
  • When using Option 2 and PC Mode in general, X1X Color Depth is back to 8-bit + Standard Color Space: this will make the console output an uncompressed 4:4:4 RGB Limited signal for SDR (the best you can get) while using calibrated ISF Expert (Dark Room) with Auto Gamut (goodbye forced Wide ) and keeping 21ms low input lag. With 422 box unchecked, both HDR and Dolby Vision will automatically switch to 4:2:0 chroma, with no color banding and almost unpercievable difference compared to 4:2:2 outside of PC Mode;
  • ISF Expert (Dark Room) OLED Light was slightly decreased from 70 to 60 as it was a bit an overkill in a dark room;
  • SDR Game Mode OLED Light was therefore lowered from 80 to 70 to match the new ISF luminance in SDR;
  • HDR Technicolor Expert Brightness was slightly decreased from 50 to 49 to offset very slightly elevated blacks caused by Active HDR
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post #36795 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 04:11 PM
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It matters also for HDR Game preset, as this way we can just leave HDR Game set (which is identical to HDR Cinema using same settings) also for movie watching from console (4K/HDR Blurays and Streaming), without changing presets every time.
You lose Real Cinema in game mode which is essential for removing judder in movies.
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post #36796 of 37448 Old 12-26-2019, 04:14 PM
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You lose Real Cinema in game mode which is essential for removing judder in movies.
Both SDR and HDR Game already have their own "Real Cinema-like" motion processing as demonstrated by Vincent Teoh on YT when playing sports video like football/soccer, and also 24p movies.
They already correctly de-judder both 24p, 30p and 60p contents.
Same thing for PC Mode.

Last edited by P40L0; 12-26-2019 at 04:46 PM.
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post #36797 of 37448 Old 12-27-2019, 06:28 AM
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I'm extremely late to the party so sorry in advance, but the most recent update..... Is it a yes to download or should I stick to the previous version that gives me zero problems? Thanks!
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post #36798 of 37448 Old 12-27-2019, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
After finally having found some time to enjoy my 55B7V during these Christmas holydays, here an additional v8.1 update for you!

Many little tweaks in most profiles + a brand new Option for HDR gaming. You can find the full changelog below.



Enjoy and have an Happy New Year!



v8.1 Changelog:


  • New Option 2b added for HDR gaming! This is a new try to revitalize the "PC Mode/Input Icon" alternative for gaming, and it basically consist in using the pure and most accurate/calibrated "HDR Game" preset with no Dynamic Contrast enhancement at all. The main advantage is keeping 21ms low input lag in HDR (opposed to the 40-ish ms of PC HDR Standard) for those people who prefer "PC Mode" for its superior SDR + 4:4:4 + RGB Limited + ISF Preset compared to SDR Game. The "pure" HDR Game (with no DC) should also look perfectly bright for all the best and/or recent HDR games which allow setting peak HDR Brightness value to 4.000 and/or Paper White to 200 and/or White Point to 0.9; it will also look good with all 1.000 nits contents and also 4.000 nits HDR Movies and TV Shows with lower MaxCLL, which should be the majority (thanks to recent LG silent improvements to HDR Cinema/Technicolor/Game presets' MaxCLL tracking). Dimness issues should be limited with games/movies mastered at 4.000 or 10.000 nits with no sliders control at all, with no MaxCLL values or MaxCLL values extremely high (minority of cases, but still possible);


  • When using Option 2 and PC Mode in general (SDR/HDR/DV) it is crucial to disable/uncheck 4:2:2 chroma subsampling and stick to 4:2:0 in order to avoid severe color banding in all modes. This was reflected in the docs by unchecking 422 on X1X and selecting 2160P YUV420 resolution on PS4 Pro;


  • When using Option 2 and PC Mode in general, X1X Color Depth is back to 8-bit + Standard Color Space: this will make the console output an uncompressed 4:4:4 RGB Limited signal for SDR (the best you can get) while using calibrated ISF Expert (Dark Room) with Auto Gamut (goodbye forced Wide ) and keeping 21ms low input lag. With 422 box unchecked, both HDR and Dolby Vision will automatically switch to 4:2:0 chroma, with no color banding and almost unpercievable difference compared to 4:2:2 outside of PC Mode;


  • ISF Expert (Dark Room) OLED Light was slightly decreased from 70 to 60 as it was a bit an overkill in a dark room;


  • SDR Game Mode OLED Light was therefore lowered from 80 to 70 to match the new ISF luminance in SDR;


  • HDR Technicolor Expert Brightness was slightly decreased from 50 to 49 to offset very slightly elevated blacks caused by Active HDR[/INDENT]



Did you get actual calibration equipment and software for Christmas? If not, I assume you are still eye-balling it.
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post #36799 of 37448 Old 12-27-2019, 11:57 AM
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I'm extremely late to the party so sorry in advance, but the most recent update..... Is it a yes to download or should I stick to the previous version that gives me zero problems? Thanks!
Do it.
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post #36800 of 37448 Old 12-27-2019, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertczek View Post
I'm extremely late to the party so sorry in advance, but the most recent update..... Is it a yes to download or should I stick to the previous version that gives me zero problems? Thanks!
Do it.
Thank you!!!
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post #36801 of 37448 Old 12-27-2019, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
After finally having found some time to enjoy my 55B7V during these Christmas holydays, here an additional v8.1 update for you!
Many little tweaks in most profiles + a brand new Option for HDR gaming. You can find the full changelog below.

Enjoy and have an Happy New Year!

v8.1 Changelog:
  • New Option 2b added for HDR gaming! This is a new try to revitalize the "PC Mode/Input Icon" alternative for gaming, and it basically consist in using the pure and most accurate/calibrated "HDR Game" preset with no Dynamic Contrast enhancement at all. The main advantage is keeping 21ms low input lag in HDR (opposed to the 40-ish ms of PC HDR Standard) for those people who prefer "PC Mode" for its superior SDR + 4:4:4 + RGB Limited + ISF Preset compared to SDR Game. The "pure" HDR Game (with no DC) should also look perfectly bright for all the best and/or recent HDR games which allow setting peak HDR Brightness value to 4.000 and/or Paper White to 200 and/or White Point to 0.9; it will also look good with all 1.000 nits contents and also 4.000 nits HDR Movies and TV Shows with lower MaxCLL, which should be the majority (thanks to recent LG silent improvements to HDR Cinema/Technicolor/Game presets' MaxCLL tracking). Dimness issues should be limited with games/movies mastered at 4.000 or 10.000 nits with no sliders control at all, with no MaxCLL values or MaxCLL values extremely high (minority of cases, but still possible);
  • When using Option 2 and PC Mode in general (SDR/HDR/DV) it is crucial to disable/uncheck 4:2:2 chroma subsampling and stick to 4:2:0 in order to avoid severe color banding in all modes. This was reflected in the docs by unchecking 422 on X1X and selecting 2160P YUV420 resolution on PS4 Pro;
  • When using Option 2 and PC Mode in general, X1X Color Depth is back to 8-bit + Standard Color Space: this will make the console output an uncompressed 4:4:4 RGB Limited signal for SDR (the best you can get) while using calibrated ISF Expert (Dark Room) with Auto Gamut (goodbye forced Wide ) and keeping 21ms low input lag. With 422 box unchecked, both HDR and Dolby Vision will automatically switch to 4:2:0 chroma, with no color banding and almost unpercievable difference compared to 4:2:2 outside of PC Mode;
  • ISF Expert (Dark Room) OLED Light was slightly decreased from 70 to 60 as it was a bit an overkill in a dark room;
  • SDR Game Mode OLED Light was therefore lowered from 80 to 70 to match the new ISF luminance in SDR;
  • HDR Technicolor Expert Brightness was slightly decreased from 50 to 49 to offset very slightly elevated blacks caused by Active HDR[/INDENT]
HDR Game Mode is stuck in wide color gamut with PC input, not AUTO.
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post #36802 of 37448 Old 12-27-2019, 10:10 PM
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So I accidently reset all my video settings the other day.. I spent the past 3 days watching content in the standard SDR Technicolor mode before I went back to Sonoftumble's calibration settings. Night and day difference. The color and white balance is significantly improved and at times I thought I was watching HDR content. Didn't realize how massive the impact is on SDR.

Highly recommend it.
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post #36803 of 37448 Old 12-28-2019, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon_67 View Post
HDR Game Mode is stuck in wide color gamut with PC input, not AUTO.
You can have PC Input + HDR Game + Auto Gamut on my 55B7V (Firmware 5.80.35).
Wide is only forced on SDR Game mode and other PC HDR presets.

You can also see this live here (min. 10:21):


Try doing a power cycle or reset the presets/TV.

Last edited by P40L0; 12-28-2019 at 01:32 AM.
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post #36804 of 37448 Old 12-28-2019, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
You can have PC Input + HDR Game + Auto Gamut on my 55B7V (Firmware 5.80.35).
Wide is only forced on SDR Game mode and other PC HDR presets.

You can also see this live here (min. 10:21):

https://youtu.be/F9OvPfPd8s0

Try doing a power cycle or reset the presets/TV.
I’ll have to check to see if a power cycle does anything.

Btw, that video shows nothing about judder from 24p sources and game mode. He’s talking about motion artifacts from 1080i sources. You might want to redo your settings for the 800th time.


EDIT: still stuck on wide on my c7 with latest firmware.

Last edited by Bacon_67; 12-28-2019 at 05:08 AM.
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post #36805 of 37448 Old 12-28-2019, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon_67 View Post
I’ll have to check to see if a power cycle does anything.

Btw, that video shows nothing about judder from 24p sources and game mode. He’s talking about motion artifacts from 1080i sources. You might want to redo your settings for the 800th time.


EDIT: still stuck on wide on my c7 with latest firmware.
He also mentions that there are no judder problem at all with progressive sources...
Plus I had no judder issues with both SDR and HDR Game Modes and 24p, 30p, 60p contents.

And as I said I also have Auto gamut on my PC Mode + HDR Game, exactly as the video above shows from minute 10:21.

Cheers,
P
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post #36806 of 37448 Old 12-28-2019, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
He also mentions that there are no judder problem at all with progressive sources...
Plus I had no judder issues with both SDR and HDR Game Modes and 24p, 30p, 60p contents.

And as I said I also have Auto gamut on my PC Mode + HDR Game, exactly as the video above shows from minute 10:21.

Cheers,
P
What firmware are you on?
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post #36807 of 37448 Old 12-28-2019, 06:04 AM
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What firmware are you on?
Firmware v5.80.35

Just click on it and change it from Wide to Auto (you need to load an HDR content first)...
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post #36808 of 37448 Old 12-28-2019, 06:38 AM
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Firmware v5.80.35

Just click on it and change it from Wide to Auto (you need to load an HDR content first)...
I’m on 5.80.50

I can’t click them. They’re locked out.
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post #36809 of 37448 Old 12-29-2019, 05:33 AM
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Some things this TV does is pretty weird.. things i've noticed:

1. It can start reading(?) from my HDD in the middle of the night when the TV is turned off. My HDD has a pretty bright LED so its really visible when it starts using it. I'm kinda curious what business it has with my HDD..
2. When i turn off the TV there's the typical click sound. This click sound can come again after like 5 minutes, what is that? Just seems odd.
3. I've noticed at least once that the mic input screen is popping up, and quickly disappearing. I've not been close to the remote.

Anyone else noticed these things?

LG OLEDB7V 55" / BenQ W700 75" DIY / BenQ MH741 120"
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post #36810 of 37448 Old 12-29-2019, 11:19 AM
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I noticed an issue with my LG B7 and my Denon 6500 recently. When I play Atmos audio from the TVs internal apps like Netflix and Disney+ the audio cuts out a lot.

It usually only cuts out for a second or two at most, but it's weird and happens every couple minutes. The picture is fine it's just an audio problem.

I have one gig streaming so I know the problem is not the stream changing quality or buffering that's causing it.

I'm pretty sure it's the latest tv update 5.80.5

I tested the same streams/same apps through my 4k Fire TV Stick and no issues at all so I know it's a problem with the TVs apps and perhaps more specifically a new LG to Denon ARC issue introduced with the latest TV update.

Anyone else having this happen recently?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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