2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 149 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4441 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
Gotta love Google and forum search, fixed ARC, I had the TV source hidden on my Denon. Un-hid it and ARC works great!
So even though you had the right source selected on the receiver it still wouldn't play because it was hidden, or were you not able to select it since it was hidden?
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post #4442 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
Gotta love Google and forum search, fixed ARC, I had the TV source hidden on my Denon. Un-hid it and ARC works great!
Have you looked at sources other than 4k? With another price drop this morning I'm having trouble resisting. Having spent time looking at one yesterday - again - in a bright store - I was really impressed with the pop and contrast compared to my old VT. No screen door effect either

There is no perfect display, quit looking for faults and enjoy

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post #4443 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post
Have you looked at sources other than 4k? With another price drop this morning I'm having trouble resisting. Having spent time looking at one yesterday - again - in a bright store - I was really impressed with the pop and contrast compared to my old VT. No screen door effect either
Another price drop? C7?

Never mind, just looked in the deals thread.
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post #4444 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by srpawski View Post
So even though you had the right source selected on the receiver it still wouldn't play because it was hidden, or were you not able to select it since it was hidden?
Correct, on the Denon if the source is hidden it seems it is basically inactive. Hitting the TV source on the remote would not help since the source is basically disabled. I un-hid the source switched to the TV live channels and AVR immediately was sending out audio from TV.


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Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post
Have you looked at sources other than 4k? With another price drop this morning I'm having trouble resisting. Having spent time looking at one yesterday - again - in a bright store - I was really impressed with the pop and contrast compared to my old VT. No screen door effect either
I have DirecTV and it looks same as it did on my 65VT60 Plasma, but has more pop since the blacks go deeper.
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post #4445 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 08:13 AM
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Like others I'm very close to pulling the trigger to upgrade from my VT60 (which contracted the pink blob issue rather pronounced, thus my searching for a new TV).

The one thing I'm confused about, no matter how much reading I've been doing is ARC and different audio modes and what will get me the best video and audio experience once I get the OLED C7.

My setup now is Netflix on the Sony Blu Ray to Onkyo TX-SR709 to VT60. I would like to take advantage of the HDR and 4k content once I get the C7, so that would rule out any switching through my Onkyo since it is not 4k switchable. So that means I would use the ARC from the C7 to watch the 4k content and get the audio, correct?

My question is, does the sound quality get downgraded through the ARC? I did a test on my VT60 this morning using the Netflix on my Blu Ray player watching a movie. My Onkyo displayed a "Dolby EX" on the monitor. When switching to using the VT60's Netflix app and utilizing ARC for the audio, the Onkyo said "Dolby D". This makes me think Dolby D < Dolby EX.

I hate to have to upgrade my Receiver at the same time as the TV just to get 4k switching if I don't have to. What am I missing?

Last edited by JeffG02; 07-02-2017 at 09:21 AM.
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post #4446 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 08:19 AM
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I really like that. Your set is mounted relatively high so you have to look up at the set anyway and the angle works. It looks like you have a front orchestra seat at a live theater.
Eye level is way to low in my book.
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post #4447 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JeffG02 View Post
Like others I'm very close to pulling the trigger to upgrade from my VT60 (which contracted the pink blob issue rather pronounced, thus my searching for a new TV).

The one thing I'm confused about, no matter how much reading I've been doing is ARC and different audio modes and what will get me the best video and audio experience once I get the OLED C7.

My setup now is Netflix on the Sony Blu Ray to Onkyo TX-SR709 to VT60. I would like to take advantage of the HDR and 4k content once I get the C7, so that would rule out any switching through my Onkyo since it is not 4k switchable. So that means I would use the ARC from the C7 to watch the 4k content and get the audio, correct?

My question is, does the sound quality get downgraded through the ARC? I did a test on my VT60 this morning using the Netflix on my Blu Ray player watching a movie. My Onkyo displayed a "Dolby EX" on the monitor. When switching to using the VT60's Netflix app and utilizing ARC for the audio, the Onkyo said "Dolby D". This makes me think Dolby D < Dolby EX.

I hate to have to upgrade my Receiver at the same time as the TV just to get 4k switching if I don't have to. What am I missing?
You should be able to send ARC to the Onkyo. I enclosed a section from the LG manual that show the Sound out options for optical and ARC.
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post #4448 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 10:05 AM
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Just came across a preorder at BH for an OLED65B7A... anyone know what this is?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1346607-REG
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post #4449 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
You should be able to send ARC to the Onkyo. I enclosed a section from the LG manual that show the Sound out options for optical and ARC.
Thank you! Yes after more investigating, I realized it was the VT60 that is limiting the audio options, not my Onkyo.
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post #4450 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Hresna View Post
If you aren't using HDMI-ARC for anything (though you probably are, for youtube or netflix on the LG) then just disable CEC altogether. Otherwise, you need to leave CEC enabled in your AVR and the LG, but in the LG, you can disable the "power on devices" feature of CEC and that should alleviate the problem.

HDMI-CEC is very glitchy. We're all happier when we can avoid using it at all. But we are slaved to it for ARC.

EDIT: CEC in the LG is called "SIMPLINK"
Yeah need to keep CEC enabled for ARC but I did try disabling the power on devices feature which unfortunately did not work.

A specific example of the issue is any time I click recent on the LG remote then click HDMI 2, (when switching from slides to DirecTV for example), the Sony X800 Blu Ray player fires up and the screen switches to the Blu Rays menu. Happens every time.

A couple other times the PS4 has turned on out of the blue but I can't recall the sequence of buttons I hit to get that to happen... Again not the end of the world but mildly annoying.
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post #4451 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
I have DirecTV and it looks same as it did on my 65VT60 Plasma, but has more pop since the blacks go deeper.
Thanks for the feedback, with the drop today I just returned from Costco with a May build OLED B7 65". My good old Panny will be going to Charles - just kidding. Some lucky family member will get it and it's low hours so it should serve them well.

Bought an Oppo 203 in December and have been accumulating the well reviewed 4k disks since then so I'm ready to go. Plan on price matching via my Chase card too, More than a few internet dealers have the B7.

If you've got a Costco nearby they are adding the Square Trade warranty for free, so 5 years of protection for free. Hopefully 5 years from now the 77" cracks $10k. That could be my retirement gift

Undecided on looking at gray slides, right now I'm inclined to watch it and if I see problems deal with them then. 90 day evaluation period is additional peace of mind. If the price drops again I'm covered until October.

Impressions later this week, seems like more plasma owners are making the jump. Based on what I've seen regarding blacks, colors that pop and contrast I suspect I'm not going to miss my VT60.

@dnice - ready to do your 3rd calibration for me? Please.
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post #4452 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 03:37 PM
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In rec. 709 SDR, these sets are so accurate you will be hard pressed to notice even the most thorough calibration. For the HDR standards, especially rec.2020, calibration may help but not dramatically, IMO. (Based on all the reviews I have read and experience over the years with pro and consumer OLEDs.) If you have an X-rite i1 Display Pro or Spyder 5 Elite, either should allow you to calibrate for 120 nits in SDR and basic 2-point white balance. Though those pucks are too slow to create and apply an ICC profile or LUT.
Hi, it's not available in consumer market any display that it's accurate with it's factory default settings using it's most accurate mode (like Movie or ISF), that kind of displays are available in pro market only, a good example are the FSI displays which are coming pre-calibrated with certification of performance, so they pre-calibrate them using 3D LUT display characterization generated from LightSpace and they are using CalMAN to verify the results.

In consumer world, usually magazine/reviews are taking only a few measurements to validate the performance of the display in color reproduction, even a calibrated C7, while at high luminance range the errors are low, if you measure different luminance levels you will see that errors are will be increased. That kind of errors obviously can't be corrected using internal calibration controls; this is why a lot of LG OLED users are using 3D LUT Boxes like eeColor to improve their color reproduction in SDR with low cost.

C7 - 10-Point Saturation @ 100% Luminance Level:



C7 - 10-Point Saturation @ 75% Luminance Level:



C7 - 10-Point Saturation @ 50% Luminance Level:



C7 - 10-Point Saturation @ 25% Luminance Level:



Credit for measurements to John (jrref).

Someone will say that sites telling that dE below 3.0 are not visible, this is not true.

dE of 1.0 is the smallest colour difference the human eye can see.

So, theoretically any dE less than 1.0 is imperceptible, while any dE greater than 1.0 is noticeable. However, some colour differences greater than 1 can be imperceptible, while some colour differences below 1.0 can be very visible, depending on the colour being measured.


If you calibrate your display and use the most popular DIY meters like iD3 + i1PRO, and then take your Grayscale+Saturations readings that got you average dE 0.5 for example, this means only that you are good versus your current meters.

So you have to add sometimes +1 / +2 dE or more because this is the average difference or your i1PRO compared to a better spectro like JETI/PhotoResearch.

Also same dE color difference between two colors, for example comparing 2 yellows and two greens may not look like the same difference to our eye.

Can you easily spot these errors using the color comparator feature of CalMAN.



For examle this is a CAlMAN Color Comparitor Screen Capture that one users has posted, CalMAN Reported these errors:

White: 0.3 dE2000 / Red: 1.3 dE2000 / Green: 2.1 dE2000 / Blue: 3.1 dE2000 / Cyan: 0.9 dE2000 / Magenta: 1.1 dE2000 / Yellow: 0.7 dE2000

and the above Color Comparitor Screen shows these errors...

But PC Monitors are not the ideal screens to make color comparisons of the different spot of two color because of they angle color shifting problems, but i'm moving this Color Comparison to the Next Level that will make all see the difference clearer to all

I made some AnimaTED Gifs with Color RGB Triplets taken from these Data's that CalMAN has at these small Color Comparator Boxes. Actual & Target Boxes.

I made 2 different 300px x 300px Full Color Images for each Color, One Frame with RGB Value from Your Actual Measured Color and another Frame with RGB Triplet Information from the Target Color,
All these Data's are coming from CalMAN Image Comparator Boxes.

You can verify them if you like, I did that already with screen capturing the AnimaTED GIF Frame Files to see if the values are matching with these at your picture.

So we have:

























White Color Difference between 2 Frames of 0.3 dE2000










































Red Color Difference between 2 Frames of 1.3 dE2000










































Green Color Difference between 2 Frames of 2.1 dE2000










































Blue Color Difference between 2 Frames of 3.1 dE2000










































Cyan Color Difference between 2 Frames of 0.9 dE2000










































Magenta Color Difference between 2 Frames of 1.1 dE2000










































Yellow Color Difference between 2 Frames of 0.7 dE2000

























You can spot the Red 1.1dE or the Cyan 0.9dE..... Green 2.1 dE or Red 1.4dE also, so 3.0 dE is not the limit of Human Perception.

1.0 - 3.0 dE Difference is visible but it has to do with color you are comparing, some low dE differencies can be more or less noticed.

BTW Spyder 5 is the worst example of meter as a choice for any kind of serious color application.

When you buy a new Spyder 5 meter, it's color accuracy is like playing a lottery, so even new meters have large unit-to-unit differences to the measurements, this is why they are not recommended from calibration software companies. (You can fix the color accuracy issue if you create a 4-color matrix meter correction table using a software that supports that (not Spyder software).

Here you can see Tom's Huffman (ChromaPure) test: New Spyder 5 vs. i1Display Pro / ColorMunki Display

LightSpace and CalMAN also are not recommending to use Spyder meters for accurate calibration work.

As you can see from the following picture (the crosses away from the REC.709 triangle of the CIE Chart are bad/failed readings) from a test Steve Shaw performed (CEO of LightIllusion) show the poor performance of Spyder 4/5 meters where they fail to read properly dark colors.



About your comment about slow speed of i1Display PRO for 3D LUT with OLED, using LightSpace HTL and taking 17-Point Cube measurements (about 5000 measurements) it takes about ~3 hours with 1 sec of delay before each meter read and 0.75sec meter exposure time. It will require less time if you set the delay to 0.5 sec; you will save about 30-40 minutes.
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post #4453 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Pac1012 View Post
Yeah need to keep CEC enabled for ARC but I did try disabling the power on devices feature which unfortunately did not work.

A specific example of the issue is any time I click recent on the LG remote then click HDMI 2, (when switching from slides to DirecTV for example), the Sony X800 Blu Ray player fires up and the screen switches to the Blu Rays menu. Happens every time.

A couple other times the PS4 has turned on out of the blue but I can't recall the sequence of buttons I hit to get that to happen... Again not the end of the world but mildly annoying.


You can try disabling CEC on the Sony devices (or everything else attached, except for the AVR and the LG). I had similar issues before tweaking this, but now my PS4 doesn't come on by itself anymore.


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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, it's not available in consumer market any display that it's accurate with it's factory default settings using it's most accurate mode (like Movie or ISF), that kind of displays are available in pro market only, a good example are the FSI displays which are coming pre-calibrated with certification of performance, so they pre-calibrate them using 3D LUT display characterization generated from LightSpace and they are using CalMAN to verify the results.
Don't want to quote your whole post. I read it all and have to admit that 95% of the time I was like:

That said, it seems to me that the message you are trying to get across is it is absolutely worth calibrating the C7... Right?
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post #4455 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Pac1012 View Post
Don't want to quote your whole post. I read it all and have to admit that 95% of the time I was like:

That said, it seems to me that the message you are trying to get across is it is absolutely worth calibrating the C7... Right?
Correct, it will reach reference performance if it's been calibrated with 3D LUT external device ideally

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post #4456 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 04:38 PM
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2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hresna View Post
You can try disabling CEC on the Sony devices (or everything else attached, except for the AVR and the LG). I had similar issues before tweaking this, but now my PS4 doesn't come on by itself anymore.


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For me, as long as CEC is enabled on my AVR, ARC works even if SIMPLINK (or whatever LG calls it) is off on the TV! I can't have SIMPLINK on because it randomly powers on and switches my AVR to random HDMI CEC devices.


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post #4457 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 04:58 PM
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OLED 65C7P for cheap at Fry's right now

Might try to head over there and see if I can get it.

Last edited by mateo222; 07-02-2017 at 05:20 PM. Reason: Edited to remove some of the price talk.
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Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post
Thanks for the feedback, with the drop today I just returned from Costco with a May build OLED B7 65". My good old Panny will be going to Charles - just kidding. Ssome lucky family member will get it and it's low hours so it should serve them well...
I just discovered I have a Costco not far from me, I have a Kuro and it's getting harder and harder to hold out with these sales. Good luck with your new B7!
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post #4459 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 05:37 PM
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Has anyone been able to pair a Bluetooth keyboard? I'd like to use one with the built in browsers but I've tried unsuccessfully to pair two different keyboards which I verified that I can pair with other devices.


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post #4460 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 06:27 PM
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dont know if its just me or my panel only, but 2.2 gamma in ISF Dark is slightly different than ISF Bright with 2.2 too.

in ISF Dark even 2.2 the picture its still a little bit dark, like not true bright 2.2, more like 2.3 or something, then in ISF Bright the 2.2 it's more accurate with the bright room feel that 2.2 produce.


weird....
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post #4461 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 06:51 PM
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Just replaced an E6 with a C7 due to sound muting issues on the E6 and no more 65" E6 were available. Did something change with WebOS 3.5 as I no longer see apps like Pandora.
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post #4462 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 07:07 PM
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I spent some time comparing C7 and Sony 930E. Was sure I was going to buy Sony 930E but the cost difference is shrinking and might be worth the extra money for the C7. I can hold out until labor day but not Turkey Day.
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post #4463 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 07:44 PM
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Can you please move all this price talk to the deals thread.


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With all due respect as noted earlier there is nothing wrong with discussing prices when it is MSRP. The early movement this year is important - lower MSRP should attract new buyers (like me) and more importantly the spread between the C7/B7 and Sony's AE1 is even more substantial. With Vincent estimating a 30% improvement with the 17s v the 16s - even more incentive.

Over the last month I've been reading everything I can about the Sony and LG OLEDs. I have yet to find a single pro review that said the AE1 was noticeably better - some rate the LG higher - with LG's MSRP $1k less than Sony's, now that the gap is $1,700 the only reason to go Sony is if you've got money to burn. I could have bought either, LG's drops over the past few weeks made my choice easy. Ask me 3 years ago if I would have owned an LG display and it would have made me laugh. Reviews and input from those like DNice - I'm proud to own an LG. The savings will go towards a new receiver eventually.

I can list at least 6 reviews that label the difference a toss up. So unless one is really a die hard Sony guy (I own a Sony but I'm not blind to facts - sorry Al) it's hard to see what the $ difference is getting someone ex the unique speakers and kick-stand.

I'm enjoying this discussion more than a few members - some former owners or non-owners - posting about banding over and over. With newer builds and more owners (see lower MSRP) it will be interesting to see if this improves. The last few owners who have posted their slides - uniformity is much better.

Nothing about HDMI 2.1 has me second guessing my decision. Hard to imagine the fun with those cables given what we've learned this year as 4k and HDR have pushed the data limits of a lot of cables ex premium certified. I'm good for the next 5 years unless I have a warranty issue sometime between now and then.

Look forward to this being an owners thread - see the AE1 thread - and reading more posts from owners and fewer from those with no experience with these displays

Enjoy the holiday all - I will definitely be having fun with my new display.
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post #4464 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 11:05 PM
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I've been playing around with my settings a bit. Call me crazy, but I think I dig the look of Dynamic Contrast low on HDR content. I marathoned a few episodes of The Grand Tour on Amazon, bouncing between DC off and low, and found that "off" looked a bit dull in comparison to low. I suspect that's active HDR in action, eh?

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post #4465 of 36711 Old 07-02-2017, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Reflex-Arc View Post
I've been playing around with my settings a bit. Call me crazy, but I think I dig the look of Dynamic Contrast low on HDR content. I marathoned a few episodes of The Grand Tour on Amazon, bouncing between DC off and low, and found that "off" looked a bit dull in comparison to low. I suspect that's active HDR in action, eh?


Yep! To me HDR is too dark most of the time with DC off, I haven't found any negatives to leaving it on.


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post #4466 of 36711 Old 07-03-2017, 01:02 AM
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Yep! To me HDR is too dark most of the time with DC off, I haven't found any negatives to leaving it on.
I have found the same, but on some titles e.g Sully the active HDR can be seen working in some scenes such as the inquiry you can clearly see the picture going from light to dark and back again as the camera angle changes. It looks like the effect works too fast
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post #4467 of 36711 Old 07-03-2017, 02:25 AM
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Is there multiple versions of power rangers 4k blu-ray? I just bought it but don't see the dolby vision logo on the back of the box like I see on despicable me 1 and 2?
Hi, there some errors to 4K covers, for example to Despicable Me (UK Release) the DV logo is not available to the outer hard-paper case but it's available to the normal case. Also it has a Dolby Atmos logo but the movie has DTS-X soundtrack only. Something similar I'm expecting is happening to Power Rangers cover.

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post #4468 of 36711 Old 07-03-2017, 02:41 AM
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I can do everything you are talking about with my Lumagen Pro 444x and have using my 2015 LG OLED. Also using Lightspace when calibrating you can set the roll off to be hard or soft and whatever peak white nit value your display is outputting.
Most of what you read about roll off has to do with home projectors because most of them can't go higher than 200 nits, if even that.
Hi SS,

LightSpace is doing wonderful job of generating soft roll off but you will not have the same roll of when you will upload to your Lumagen PRO.

From the start of Lumagen Pro processor announcement I have noticed them that 21-Point 1D LUT and 17-Point CMS is very small size to handle a so big range 0-10000 nits, it's good size to only to handle SDR 120nits.

So when you have only 21-Points to follow PQ transfer function; the adjustment points have very large distance between them, so even a very smooth generated roll-off from LightSpace for example, it will not possible to be reproduced when it will uploaded to Lumagen PRO memory. Even an exact level clip to specific nits it will not be possible.

See how the 21-Points are correcting these digital levels for HDR:

64 -> 0 nits
108 -> 0.61 nits
152 -> 0.33 nits
196 -> 1.01 nits
240 -> 2.47 nits
284 -> 5.24 nits
328 -> 10.21 nits
372 -> 18.78 nits
416 -> 33.1 nits
460 -> 56.55 nits
504 -> 94.38 nits
544 -> 148.03 nits
588 -> 239.81 nits
632 -> 384.71 nits
676 -> 613.08 nits
720 -> 973.13 nits
764 -> 1542.21 nits
808 -> 2445.67 nits
852 -> 3848.17 nits
896 -> 6214.61 nits
940 -> 10000 nits

I have suggested to Lumagen threads before a lot of time that product released that at least 33-Point Cube will be needed for HDR.

33-Point Cube will be needed but 65-Point it will be ideal (like eeColor 3D LUT Box has for SDR).

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post #4469 of 36711 Old 07-03-2017, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by EeK9X View Post
What's even more baffling is that when I observe the color bar pattern using the blue filter packaged with the disc, the B7's default color and tint settings are properly adjusted (at 50 and 0, respectively). Still, colors are definitely dull and have a very noticeable green tint to them - even after changing the color temperature preset from Warm2 (way too yellow) to Medium (much more natural).
Hi, using any blue filter is a waste of time, CMS Calibration is not possible by only looking build in filters or by any type of $1 filter that is coming with disks or by photographic use quality and more expensive ones (Rosco E-Colour Tokyo Blue #071 or Lee Sheet Colour Filter #071 Tokyo or Kodak Deep Blue Tricolor #47B).

Blue Filter Glasses are useless for displays other than CRT.

Blue filters used before 10-15 years mainly for CRT Displays where only Color/Tint controls were available for CMS; the calibration software/meter access were so limited and so expensive.....now in 2017 you can get an amazing for the performance colorimeter like X-Rite's i1Display PRO and by using an open source software for free (like HCFR or LightSpace DPS), there is no reason to use any blue filter anymore.

Now most of the displays are coming with 6-Axis CMS controls.

Blue filters (on CRT) can work where for example the Red Primary is fully saturated and have no blue or green...blue primary has no green or red etc....But a fully saturated Primary needs to have the other 2 primaries added to be able to de-saturated it to it's target....so viewing thru the blue filter you will have light coming from all three primaries and this will make it's blue filter purpose of matching the luminance method no longer work.

When you have meter/software and have performed a color gamut calibration will full CMS internal controls or via external way using a 3D LUT Box like eeColor, look throu the blue filter....you will see that it will look so bad; so a very wide native gamut coverage display it will look very off when you target for REC.709 and look throu bars because the more de-saturation will be needed to the colors to match REC.709. Blue filters designed to work for display that their primaries are tracking REC.709, now all modern displays have wider gamut coverage from REC.709, this is another one reason that Blue Filter is not worth it to use nowadays.

For CMS calibration you need software/meter, can't do it by looking any reference pattern or any special mode or any filter.

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post #4470 of 36711 Old 07-03-2017, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by w8andc View Post
Yes, I know.
I am on the same boat and own the Marantz SR7010.
Very hard to believe that such "high end" and expensive equipment, which is just 1,5 year old, is already obsolete and company support stops. Customer care is a whole different world these days.

So, what's the solution?
Probably you can go for a HDFury device such as a 4k UHD splitter such as the HDFury Linker or the HDFury Integral: go to https://www.hdfury.com
HDR10 and Dolby Vision pass through should be possible with those devices and each has 2 HDMI outputs so you can use 1 for connecting to your AVR and 1 to your TV.

I own the HDFury Integral, but haven't connect it to my Marantz SR7010 yet and didn't test it.
Hi, The best choice for this is the HD Fury Integral which has 2 outputs, the top can be configured to be HDCP 2.2 or 1.4, the bottom is always 1.4.

HD Linker has 1x output and 2x inputs so it can't be used to do the job for that setups.

For DV for both outputs using Integral, before buying ask a question to the HD Integral thread to get a confirmation that all will be fine.

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