2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 347 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10381 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zissou View Post
No the juddering and stuttering ir ridiculous coming from a plasma. Played around with True Motion or whatever the hell it's called and when you finally get the motion right it's like watching Another World. Back it goes.
My C7 looks fantastic. I was watching tennis last night and it was amazing. No complaints here. Not only the best TV I've ever owned, but the best picture I've ever seen. I previously had a very old Samsung plasma, then for a short time a Hisense N7. The C7 blows away both of them.

I'm very sensitive to SOE as well, I disable processing completely in all modes.

Either your TV is faulty, or your settings are wrong.

Last edited by noobtv; 10-15-2017 at 03:39 PM.
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post #10382 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mabelrode View Post
I have been playing a lot of HDR games on my PS4 Pro the past few days and noticed that when running in HDR game, the details in dark areas are sometimes lost completely. One weird thing is that on this picture, the default black level of low is actually darker than on high. Anyone else notice this and have a recommendation to get a better image? I am on firmware 03.60.16 by the way.
You sure your color space matches between the console and TV?
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post #10383 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 03:33 PM
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Try hitting the Mute button on the remote 3 or 4 times quickly. Should bring up the AV Reset menu options.
What exactly does an AV reset do?
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post #10384 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mabelrode View Post
I have been playing a lot of HDR games on my PS4 Pro the past few days and noticed that when running in HDR game, the details in dark areas are sometimes lost completely. One weird thing is that on this picture, the default black level of low is actually darker than on high. Anyone else notice this and have a recommendation to get a better image? I am on firmware 03.60.16 by the way.
That sounds correct to me, low black should be darker than high black...

I think putting Dynamic Contrast to Low is supposed to help.
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post #10385 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 04:33 PM
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Hi all,

First time posting here, but I just moved into a new apartment and I'm looking to get a new 4K TV mainly for gaming on a PS4 Pro and the occasional 4K movie (which I'll get a dedicated player for). Initially, I was set on a getting a Sony X900E as it's in a relatively affordable price range and 3-4 years down the line, I could replace it when OLED's worked out any kinks. The X900E (55 inch) retails for about $1200, I'm assuming this will be $1000-$1100 come Holidays, which is my trigger price.

But I've seen that the LG B7 OLED is around $1800 right now + $150 gift card at Best Buy and presumably it could go a bit lower to around $1500? Not to get too much into prices, but I guess the question is whether the OLED LG would be worth that extra $500 difference or so or better to stick with my original plan of getting the X900E. Obviously with OLED, better blacks and better viewing angle here compared to the X900E and also the benefit of things like Dolby Vision but not sure if it'll really affect me that much. How is input lag and say watching 720p/1080i cable TV on this? Is burn in a serious issue or nothing to really worry about?

Anyways, any input is appreciated.
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post #10386 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 05:47 PM
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Thank you everyone for the advice and responses!

Are there any complaints about the TV? Something I should be afraid of?

Are there any advantages to getting the Samsung/Sony OLEDs? Since they have the same picture and all.

I basically want nothing extra. Just the picture quality it offers. All the audio and cosmetic parts mean nothing to me!

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post #10387 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich View Post
Thank you everyone for the advice and responses!

Are there any complaints about the TV? Something I should be afraid of?

Are there any advantages to getting the Samsung/Sony OLEDs? Since they have the same picture and all.

I basically want nothing extra. Just the picture quality it offers. All the audio and cosmetic parts mean nothing to me!
Sony and LG are the only ones offering oled stateside I believe...you can't go wrong with either...however the B7a can be had at good price and offers the same pq as all other 2017 oled.
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post #10388 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by smoore View Post
Has anyone in Canada received the new firmware update? I live in Toronto and I have not.
I'm still on .09.
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post #10389 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:13 PM
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Sounds like LG released this update only for a very short time before pulling it.. no idea why.
So it appears. Did it happen to other forum members, as well?

I was looking forward to finally having HDR fixed when selecting PC as the input label, and also hopefully having it be a little brighter in Game mode for all other inputs.

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Originally Posted by mikek View Post
I just bought a B7 and I was adjusting the color like I normally do. I noticed a difference on my last 2 2017 LG TVs.

I run the flashing color bars video and I put on the blue filter and adjust the color until the color bars are blue.

I then adjust the tint until the tint bars are blue. I haven been doing this for years and it usually works fine.

But now after I completed the process the colors looks more greenish. In the settings I had to go all the way to Color 67 and Tint G28. That seems very far off and not what I am used to.

Does anyone know what is going wrong and how to fix it?

Thanks.
I had the same problem when I first bought my B7, a few months ago. I used the Disney WOW BD to "calibrate" (not really calibration, but you get it) my previous two sets, including an LG OLED 55EA9800, and it worked wonders - no pun intended.

As for the B7, I also noticed the green tint and even commented about it on this very thread (starting here, continuing here). Another user, @Hresna , even replied saying that he, too, had the same issue.

Now, unfortunately, due to time constraints, I haven't been able to keep up with this thread or even follow up to the people who may have replied to my previous comments, so I'll take this opportunity to resume the discussion.

I should preface this by saying that I'm a complete amateur when it comes to video calibration, and my methods will certainly be frowned upon by the experts on this forum. However, I do have perfect eyesight and can definitely tell when colors look "off".

As anecdotal evidence, I know exactly what my favorite club's jersey is supposed to look like, as well as the grass on the field, having watched many games live. And there's no amount of "expert" advice on these threads that will convince me that I should be using Warm2 for Color Temperature (as suggested here many times before) when all that does is turn everything yellow-ish. I lovingly nicknamed that the "piss filter".

So, what I did was adjust the settings using the ISF Expert (Dark Room) picture mode as a starting point, which gives you more options ("Expert Controls") and the possibility of applying a blue color filter by the TV itself, instead of using a physical filter like the one that comes with the Disney WOW BD.

I also selected the PC icon as the input label for reduced input lag in all picture modes, and not just the Game ones (I'm a gamer and also use the TV as my PC's main monitor).

Then, I turned off all available post-processing video settings, such as Super Resolution, Edge Enhancer and Motion Eye Care (most of those settings are already disabled by default when you select PC as the input). Under Picture Options, I set Black level to "Low". Under Expert Controls, I set Color Gamut to "Wide" and Gamma to "2.2".

Also under Expert Controls, there's White Balance, where you can change the aforementioned Color Temperature setting. I set it to "Medium", with no other changes. I didn't make any changes to Color Management System, either.

Now comes the part where your mileage may vary and most will just say that what I'll suggest is completely wrong and you should never listen to me. Bear in mind that those are the same people that recommend the "piss filter", so it's up to you whose advice you should follow.

I first set Dynamic Contrast to "High", under Expert Controls. Then, under the same menu, I selected "Blue" as a Color Filter. Next, I displayed
on my TV (using a properly configured PC, PS4/PS4 Pro, Nvidia Shield TV or any device other than the Xbox One/Xbox One S, which has inaccurate black levels) and adjusted the color setting so that the blue would match on the first and last bars (1 and 7), and did the same thing for the tint setting, only for the middle bars (3 and 5). Finally, I turned off Dynamic Contrast.

What I noticed is that adjusting color/tint with Dynamic Contrast set to "High" on the B7 is the only way to have the blue color match on all bars when viewing the picture through the TV's blue color filter.

After that, you should have a picture with proper colors. Let me know how it goes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabelrode View Post
I have been playing a lot of HDR games on my PS4 Pro the past few days and noticed that when running in HDR game, the details in dark areas are sometimes lost completely. One weird thing is that on this picture, the default black level of low is actually darker than on high. Anyone else notice this and have a recommendation to get a better image? I am on firmware 03.60.16 by the way.
I'm on 03.60.09, which broke HDR when using PC as the input label, not sure if it's the same for your firmware.

Regardless, what I noticed is that HDR is really dark for all game picture modes on the B7. Some people say that newer firmwares have made it even darker, while other say that it's been fixed. For now, I simply don't use HDR, as even setting Dynamic Contrast to "Low", or even "High" as has been suggested, doesn't seem to help.
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post #10390 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam1977 View Post
Sony and LG are the only ones offering oled stateside I believe...you can't go wrong with either...however the B7a can be had at good price and offers the same pq as all other 2017 oled.
It's the same thing, picture wise? The B7A and C7P?

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post #10391 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich View Post
It's the same thing, picture wise? The B7A and C7P?
Yes sir.
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post #10392 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam1977 View Post
Yes sir.
What about the upscaling and other factors involved with overall picture quality?

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post #10393 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich View Post
What about the upscaling and other factors involved with overall picture quality?
The upscaling is just fine...of course it will be content...cable provider dependent...blu rays look outstanding.
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post #10394 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:21 PM
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The upscaling is just fine...of course it will be content...cable provider dependent...blu rays look outstanding.
I don't have cable. It's all streaming. Apple TV 4K HDR streaming. Netflix, Hulu, HBO Now, Amazon Prime, and STARZ. I also play a lot of video games. X Box One S, PS4.

So that's why i'm a little nervous. I don't want want my streaming material to be total junk.

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post #10395 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich View Post
I don't have cable. It's all streaming. Apple TV 4K HDR streaming. Netflix, Hulu, HBO Now, Amazon Prime, and STARZ. I also play a lot of video games. X Box One S, PS4.

So that's why i'm a little nervous. I don't want want my streaming material to be total junk.
You'll be fine...ive seen my son gaming on my other oled and it looks fantastic.
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post #10396 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:30 PM
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You'll be fine...ive seen my son gaming on my other oled and it looks fantastic.
I've read that the C7P does gaming extremely well. But no one mentioned the B7A having the same panel. So that's why i'm a little curious about it.

There has to be some visual/processing differences, no?

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post #10397 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich View Post
I've read that the C7P does gaming extremely well. But no one mentioned the B7A having the same panel. So that's why i'm a little curious about it.

There has to be some visual/processing differences, no?
All 2017 oleds are the same panel wise...they all differ aesthetically and sound quality.
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post #10398 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:39 PM
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Have about 55 hrs on my 65c7p. Not sure if I just didn't notice before or it's a new phenomenon but I'm getting temporary image retention from things like the apple tv home screen icons. I know this is expected to some degree on oled but the weird thing is that it occurs even if the tv has been on for just a couple minutes. When I transition to other screens or display something like the 5% banding youtube video I see retention of some of the ATV icons. Not noticeable while playing a video. Is this expected behavior?

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post #10399 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam1977 View Post
All 2017 oleds are the same panel wise...they all differ aesthetically and sound quality.
Thank you for the advice!

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post #10400 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mabelrode View Post
I have been playing a lot of HDR games on my PS4 Pro the past few days and noticed that when running in HDR game, the details in dark areas are sometimes lost completely. One weird thing is that on this picture, the default black level of low is actually darker than on high. Anyone else notice this and have a recommendation to get a better image? I am on firmware 03.60.16 by the way.
What do you have your PS4 Pro out settings for color space? The default is Automatic, but when I plugged my new PRO into the LG OLED, I noticed that in Automatic there is a brightness/gamma issue. For example, many games have in-game brightness adjustments and one of them, The Witcher 3 has a Witcher Symbol and they tell you to adjust the brightness until the logo is barely visible. With the PRO set to Automatic, the logo no matter what I adjust the brightness would show, but when I changed it to "Limited" it behaved properly.

That could be one of the reasons. I noticed that a lot of dark scenes were resolving more stuff when I had it set to limited, where as in Automatic it was missing a lot of detail in dark scenes. Looks fantastic now. Granted this is not a HDR game, but I also tested Horizon Zero Down and same thing, with Automatic it would not properly adjust.
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post #10401 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 06:44 PM
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Thank you for the advice!
No problem...these are outstanding sets and well worth their price.
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post #10402 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by EeK9X View Post
So it appears. Did it happen to other forum members, as well?

I was looking forward to finally having HDR fixed when selecting PC as the input label, and also hopefully having it be a little brighter in Game mode for all other inputs.



I had the same problem when I first bought my B7, a few months ago. I used the Disney WOW BD to "calibrate" (not really calibration, but you get it) my previous two sets, including an LG OLED 55EA9800, and it worked wonders - no pun intended.

As for the B7, I also noticed the green tint and even commented about it on this very thread (starting here, continuing here). Another user, @Hresna , even replied saying that he, too, had the same issue.

Now, unfortunately, due to time constraints, I haven't been able to keep up with this thread or even follow up to the people who may have replied to my previous comments, so I'll take this opportunity to resume the discussion.

I should preface this by saying that I'm a complete amateur when it comes to video calibration, and my methods will certainly be frowned upon by the experts on this forum. However, I do have perfect eyesight and can definitely tell when colors look "off".

As anecdotal evidence, I know exactly what my favorite club's jersey is supposed to look like, as well as the grass on the field, having watched many games live. And there's no amount of "expert" advice on these threads that will convince me that I should be using Warm2 for Color Temperature (as suggested here many times before) when all that does is turn everything yellow-ish. I lovingly nicknamed that the "piss filter".

So, what I did was adjust the settings using the ISF Expert (Dark Room) picture mode as a starting point, which gives you more options ("Expert Controls") and the possibility of applying a blue color filter by the TV itself, instead of using a physical filter like the one that comes with the Disney WOW BD.

I also selected the PC icon as the input label for reduced input lag in all picture modes, and not just the Game ones (I'm a gamer and also use the TV as my PC's main monitor).

Then, I turned off all available post-processing video settings, such as Super Resolution, Edge Enhancer and Motion Eye Care (most of those settings are already disabled by default when you select PC as the input). Under Picture Options, I set Black level to "Low". Under Expert Controls, I set Color Gamut to "Wide" and Gamma to "2.2".

Also under Expert Controls, there's White Balance, where you can change the aforementioned Color Temperature setting. I set it to "Medium", with no other changes. I didn't make any changes to Color Management System, either.

Now comes the part where your mileage may vary and most will just say that what I'll suggest is completely wrong and you should never listen to me. Bear in mind that those are the same people that recommend the "piss filter", so it's up to you whose advice you should follow.

I first set Dynamic Contrast to "High", under Expert Controls. Then, under the same menu, I selected "Blue" as a Color Filter. Next, I displayed this video on my TV (using a properly configured PC, PS4/PS4 Pro, Nvidia Shield TV or any device other than the Xbox One/Xbox One S, which has inaccurate black levels) and adjusted the color setting so that the blue would match on the first and last bars (1 and 7), and did the same thing for the tint setting, only for the middle bars (3 and 5). Finally, I turned off Dynamic Contrast.

What I noticed is that adjusting color/tint with Dynamic Contrast set to "High" on the B7 is the only way to have the blue color match on all bars when viewing the picture through the TV's blue color filter.

After that, you should have a picture with proper colors. Let me know how it goes!



I'm on 03.60.09, which broke HDR when using PC as the input label, not sure if it's the same for your firmware.

Regardless, what I noticed is that HDR is really dark for all game picture modes on the B7. Some people say that newer firmwares have made it even darker, while other say that it's been fixed. For now, I simply don't use HDR, as even setting Dynamic Contrast to "Low", or even "High" as has been suggested, doesn't seem to help.
Thank you for replying with such detail. I will test out the Dynamic Contrast like you describe.
Basically I set Dynamic Contrast to High. Then adjust with the blue filter. Then shut off Dynamic Contrast.

Thanks. I will post results.

By the way, I had a B6 and I used the normal method and the B7 is much more green. As was my other 2017 LG TV
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Originally Posted by liquidrawhide View Post
the only thing recognized through the receiver by the TV itself is the AppleTV:
I have an ATV 4K connected via a Denon. My ATV doesn't show up in the basic menu. I see my disc player and my Chromecast. I'm not sure where the problem is but I doubt it's the ATV.

I might type 2K for 1080p.
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post #10404 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 07:45 PM
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Thank you for replying with such detail. I will test out the Dynamic Contrast like you describe.
Basically I set Dynamic Contrast to High. Then adjust with the blue filter. Then shut off Dynamic Contrast.

Thanks. I will post results.

By the way, I had a B6 and I used the normal method and the B7 is much more green. As was my other 2017 LG TV
No problem! And hey, I wouldn't be a good lawyer if I didn't like to write.

But, basically, yeah, that's it. Just make sure that all other color settings match my description, as they can cause significant changes in PQ, especially when adjusting color/tint using a blue filter.

I only have a B7 as far as 2017 models go, but like I said, my 9800 (2014) didn't have any particular tint. I'm assuming that the 2017 panels all have different factory settings, as you still can achieve proper color tone after some adjusting.
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post #10405 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 07:49 PM
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Thank you for replying with such detail. I will test out the Dynamic Contrast like you describe.
Basically I set Dynamic Contrast to High. Then adjust with the blue filter. Then shut off Dynamic Contrast.
A process like this probably guarantees an error. Also display generated blue filters often have issues and you might be better off using a plastic filter or at checking with one. I know that my C7 fails to completely suppress yellow and green so it's suspect. That said it was trivial to adjust color/tint using the S&M pattern starting from ISF Dark with all "enhancement" features disabled.

I might type 2K for 1080p.
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post #10406 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 08:26 PM
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No problem! And hey, I wouldn't be a good lawyer if I didn't like to write.

But, basically, yeah, that's it. Just make sure that all other color settings match my description, as they can cause significant changes in PQ, especially when adjusting color/tint using a blue filter.

I only have a B7 as far as 2017 models go, but like I said, my 9800 (2014) didn't have any particular tint. I'm assuming that the 2017 panels all have different factory settings, as you still can achieve proper color tone after some adjusting.
Well, it didn't work. While dynamic contrast was set to high I had to boost color to around 86 and I knew it was gonna get jacked up. After I adjusted the tint and shut off dynamic contrast it was back to the greenish. I got it looking fine by adjusting the tint down, but I don't know what the heck is going on with the blue filter thing. Maybe it is "off" like bodosom posted above.

ps. Against my better judgement I looked at the 5% gray scale slide. I didn't really want to, but I was interested in a base line since the TV is brand new. I am happy to report that I was shocked to see that it has nearly perfect uniformity.
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post #10407 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 08:41 PM
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No problem...these are outstanding sets and well worth their price.
Cost aside, more about practicality and being smart.

Would it be better to find a B6 or E6 in a 65" and wait for the 2018 OLED's? Someone mentioned the 2017 models not supporting HDMI 2.1 (Which btw, no idea what that even means).

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post #10408 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 08:49 PM
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Cost aside, more about practicality and being smart.

Would it be better to find a B6 or E6 in a 65" and wait for the 2018 OLED's? Someone mentioned the 2017 models not supporting HDMI 2.1 (Which btw, no idea what that even means).
HDMI 2.1 will be a new standard but not sure when that will be implemented other folks on here might have more knowledge in regards to that ...I own both an 65E6 and 65C7, both are outstanding...although their are improvements in both hdr and near black with my c7, but we would be splitting hairs with that. If you want 3d by all means go for a e6, if 3d is not important to you then a 2017 oled will do just fine. I will say that the 3d on my e6 is the Best I've ever seen...
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post #10409 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 09:02 PM
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Thank you everyone for the advice and responses!

Are there any complaints about the TV? Something I should be afraid of?

Are there any advantages to getting the Samsung/Sony OLEDs? Since they have the same picture and all.

I basically want nothing extra. Just the picture quality it offers. All the audio and cosmetic parts mean nothing to me!
Samsung has no OLED. Samsung makes a lot of OLED screens, but they are for phones and tablets, not TV size. Only LG makes TV size OLED panels, and no way would Samsung buy anything from LG. Samsung has QLED which is a misuse of the name for a new technology they don't actually have yet applied to a crappy edgelit LCD screen with a very high price (which is apparently not selling very well at all).

In the US all you can choose from is the LG lineup and the Sony A1E. Canada also now has Panasonic. Europe has lots of choices.
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post #10410 of 36409 Old 10-15-2017, 09:25 PM
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I have been playing a lot of HDR games on my PS4 Pro the past few days and noticed that when running in HDR game, the details in dark areas are sometimes lost completely. One weird thing is that on this picture, the default black level of low is actually darker than on high. Anyone else notice this and have a recommendation to get a better image? I am on firmware 03.60.16 by the way.
What do you have your PS4 Pro out settings for color space? The default is Automatic, but when I plugged my new PRO into the LG OLED, I noticed that in Automatic there is a brightness/gamma issue. For example, many games have in-game brightness adjustments and one of them, The Witcher 3 has a Witcher Symbol and they tell you to adjust the brightness until the logo is barely visible. With the PRO set to Automatic, the logo no matter what I adjust the brightness would show, but when I changed it to "Limited" it behaved properly.

That could be one of the reasons. I noticed that a lot of dark scenes were resolving more stuff when I had it set to limited, where as in Automatic it was missing a lot of detail in dark scenes. Looks fantastic now. Granted this is not a HDR game, but I also tested Horizon Zero Down and same thing, with Automatic it would not properly adjust.
Yes, I have it on limited and resolution set to 2160p - YUV420.
I also have tv at 50 brightness ..are you setting the input to PC or using game console with HDR game mode on?
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