2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 395 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11821 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Thank you.

I haven't messed with DV yet, so the OLED light setting for DV should stay at default. I will update the post so there's no confusion about that.

At this point I have been advised that ISF is still working on a new workflow specific to the 2017 LG OLED's ( it is a very different process vs. the 2016's. ) and to stay away from trying to calibrate DV at this point. Leave the DV CMS untouched.

Stay tuned. I'll have more info after Wednesday this week.
Yes just to confirm, if you are not going to calibrate DV your 2017 LG then leave everything at default. The only thing you can "play" with is the Dynamic Contrast if you want a little more brightness. As far as calibration, i'm not sure who you were speaking to but Calman has a new workflow that was released a couple of months ago to calibrate DV on a 2017 LG. It's quite a process where you measure the specific set's capabilities, generate and re-load the configuration file. Depending on how different your set is to what was set at the factory will determine how much improvement you will see. From my experience I've seen subtle to dramatic improvements after DV calibration especially in the near black details.

Hope this helps
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Last edited by jrref; 10-30-2017 at 09:34 AM.
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post #11822 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 09:32 AM
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I don't game, but you will be impressed with PE2!
Plus one on Planet Earth 2 4K Blu Ray. A must own if you have an OLED. By far the best 4K/HDR demo material on these TVs I have seen so far. I’ve never seen a TV image look this good.
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post #11823 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jrref View Post
Yes just to confirm, if you are not going to calibrate DV your 2017 LG then leave everything at default. The only thing you can "play" with is the Dynamic Contrast if you want a little more brightness. As far as calibration, i'm not sure who you were speaking to but Calman has a new workflow that was released a couple of months ago to calibrate DV on a 2017 LG. It's quite a process where you measure the specific set's capabilities, generate and re-load the configuration file. Depending on how different your set is to what was set at the factory will determine how much improvement you will see. From my experience I've see subtle to dramatic improvements after DV calibration especially in the near black details.

Hope this helps
Yes. Thanks. Any help is welcome. I saw the new workflow, and as you alluded, it's not for the faint of heart. I also understand that there's a Rev. B on the drawing board. Just another reason why I've been avoiding it. I plan on tackling it when my calibration partner / guru ( 3,000 calibrations ) who is closely connected with Joel and ISF gets some extra time. The folks at Murideo are waiting for me to do something about it as well. lol

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #11824 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Thank you.

I haven't messed with DV yet, so the OLED light setting for DV should stay at default. I will update the post so there's no confusion about that.

At this point I have been advised that ISF is still working on a new workflow specific to the 2017 LG OLED's ( it is a very different process vs. the 2016's. ) and to stay away from trying to calibrate DV at this point. Leave the DV CMS untouched.

Stay tuned. I'll have more info after Wednesday this week.
Sorry one more question here. Is there any reason that you have gamut set to "Wide" instead of "Auto" in SDR?

Last edited by tocirahl; 10-30-2017 at 10:23 AM.
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post #11825 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 09:54 AM
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Hello -
First post, I hope this is the right place for this question.
Just bought a 65B7P. It's connected to DirecTV via a wireless Genie mini box. When I first turn things on, it will usually say I'm not connected to the set top box. The TV then goes through about 2 minutes of flashing a picture then a blank screen. If I turn it off and then back on after this, everything works correctly.
Genie is attached via HDMI to port 1.
I didn't have this issue with my previous display, a Sony KDL-60R550A LED.
I've tried both full setup with pairing to the DTV receiver, as well as skipping setup and just selecting HDMI 1 as the source with the same results.

Is this just expected, or do I have a setting change that would help?

Thanks in advance,
Jon
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post #11826 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:03 AM
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Just moved to a C7 from a Viera Plasma, as far as gaming this is how I deal with it on the C7.

  • HDR games, nothing needs to be done since HDR is detected and the panel automatically toggles to separate HDR display settings. Done playing the game and automatically drop back to my normal viewing settings.
  • non-HDR games, before launching I change to "PC Mode", after gaming get out of "PC Mode".


Sort of annoying having to jump in and out of PC Mode, especially coming from the Panny, but I don't see any other way to avoid input lag and HDR appearing as anti-HDR when in PC Mode. So do I have it right?
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post #11827 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:12 AM
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Question

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Originally Posted by magnafides View Post
Would anyone with a 55B7A be willing to measure from the bottom VESA mounting screw to the bottom of the TV, and then approximate bottom bezel height and post here? Also where is the IR sensor on this set? (If you can't tell I'm trying to figure out if my Center Channel speaker will fit underneath)
Also would like to know for the 65B7P too, it has a smaller VESA pattern so might even work for me...
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post #11828 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by joncanfield View Post
Hello -
First post, I hope this is the right place for this question.
Just bought a 65B7P. It's connected to DirecTV via a wireless Genie mini box. When I first turn things on, it will usually say I'm not connected to the set top box. The TV then goes through about 2 minutes of flashing a picture then a blank screen. If I turn it off and then back on after this, everything works correctly.
Genie is attached via HDMI to port 1.
I didn't have this issue with my previous display, a Sony KDL-60R550A LED.
I've tried both full setup with pairing to the DTV receiver, as well as skipping setup and just selecting HDMI 1 as the source with the same results.

Is this just expected, or do I have a setting change that would help?

Thanks in advance,
Jon
What's your start-up order? I have used a Genie client with my B7 for over 3 months, no issues. Different port, but that shouldn't matter given they all have the same specs less 3 which is for ARC.
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post #11829 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:37 AM
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Anyone getting low framerate on your window's desktop with the new update? 4.70.07 or whatever it is. My system is getting some seriously low frame rates just at desktop but then goes buttery smooth then goes slow and choppy again. Really stuttery. I'll see if I can replicate it again tonight. But, Stranger Things 2 looks great...
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post #11830 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayton View Post
Just moved to a C7 from a Viera Plasma, as far as gaming this is how I deal with it on the C7.

  • HDR games, nothing needs to be done since HDR is detected and the panel automatically toggles to separate HDR display settings. Done playing the game and automatically drop back to my normal viewing settings.
  • non-HDR games, before launching I change to "PC Mode", after gaming get out of "PC Mode".


Sort of annoying having to jump in and out of PC Mode, especially coming from the Panny, but I don't see any other way to avoid input lag and HDR appearing as anti-HDR when in PC Mode. So do I have it right?
Yeah this is pretty much what I do as well. This seems to be the best way to get the most out of HDR and SDR gaming at the moment.
I really hope LG makes this less of a hassle at some point.
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post #11831 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tocirahl View Post
Sorry one more question here. Is there any reason that you have gamut set to "Wide" in SDR?
Good question. I didn't want to leave it at "Auto", and SDR has nothing to do with WCG, so I decided to set it to Wide. Doesn't seem to hurt. When I consult with my guru later this week, I will find out if it should be set back to Auto not. If I get a 10bit signal that's not HDR ( unlikely ) then it would be ready. From what I understand the TV will only display colors based on the data and will not enhance with false color. I'll keep you posted.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #11832 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Thank you.

I haven't messed with DV yet, so the OLED light setting for DV should stay at default. I will update the post so there's no confusion about that.

At this point I have been advised that ISF is still working on a new workflow specific to the 2017 LG OLED's ( it is a very different process vs. the 2016's. ) and to stay away from trying to calibrate DV at this point. Leave the DV CMS untouched.

Stay tuned. I'll have more info after Wednesday this week.
This I'm curious to see as well...i haven't really messed with the settings except turning off all enhancements.
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post #11833 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Good question. I didn't want to leave it at "Auto", and SDR has nothing to do with WCG, so I decided to set it to Wide. Doesn't seem to hurt. When I consult with my guru later this week, I will find out if it should be set back to Auto not. If I get a 10bit signal that's not HDR ( unlikely ) then it would be ready. From what I understand the TV will only display colors based on the data and will not enhance with false color. I'll keep you posted.
From what I recall, if I set mode to Wide in SDR, colors looked over-saturated. Auto is the correct option for SDR I believe, and it does look the most natural when I watch SDR content.
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post #11834 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:49 AM
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Janice805, I think I'm seeing the same thing since the latest firmware update. Switching from my cable box input to my Roku input and back to my Cable box input always results in no sound. My Roku input doesn't seem to be afflicted at all. The only way I've been able to get sound back for my cable tv input is to play the sound test. Have you found a fix yet? I'm going to contact LG later today, but I don't have hight hopes. I'd really like to downgrade the firmware, but that seems like a major undertaking.
I'm still waiting for LG to call me back. The only way I can regain the sound is after switching HDMI inputs is to turn the TV OFF then ON again. But who wants to do that forever
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post #11835 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:49 AM
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Plus one on Planet Earth 2 4K Blu Ray. A must own if you have an OLED. By far the best 4K/HDR demo material on these TVs I have seen so far. I’ve never seen a TV image look this good.
Is the disc version noticeably different than what is on netflix? Just wondering if it would be worth buying the actual physical copy or not.

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post #11836 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:50 AM
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Yeah this is pretty much what I do as well. This seems to be the best way to get the most out of HDR and SDR gaming at the moment.
I really hope LG makes this less of a hassle at some point.
Thanks, thought maybe I was missing something since I'm "new". Anyway so LG either has to fix Game Mode, so that one wouldn't need to go to PC Mode, or make HDR work properly in PC Mode.
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post #11837 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:53 AM
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Thanks, thought maybe I was missing something since I'm "new". Anyway so LG either has to fix Game Mode, so that one wouldn't need to go to PC Mode, or make HDR work properly in PC Mode.


Thoughts on the present “banding issue” in PC Mode?

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post #11838 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:53 AM
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Is "Pixel Refresher" the same as what I've read on this forum earlier this year as "Clear Panel Noise"? I asked earlier in a thread, but my thread now appears in this thread and someone marked it "answered". Only some of my questions were answered. Anyone?

LG OLED55B7 -LG OLED65C8 - Marantz NR1608
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post #11839 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:56 AM
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It's not going to let you downgrade without a fight.
Hey noob, what are we gonna to downgrade?
We have to urgently downgrade to get things working again, what do you think we should do?
Let's put our brains together and think of something... how about contacting the russion dude that came up with the method, if you figure out how to get in contact with him then i will contact him and maybe pay him to help me downgrade while telling me what to do over the phone or something, what do you think?
Also the local method as opposed to the online method you asked about in a previous post, it is the same thing as the online method but you would have the entire firmware on your computer and tv downgrades from your computer instead of the LG website.
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post #11840 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CoffeeHawk View Post
It is meant to be flat, as in f-l-a-t.
If it's more tilted than curved, check the mounting bracket. It is too easy to slightly mis-insert it and still be able to attach the mounting screws.
FedEx beat the crap out of mine, bad enough to break some of the formed styrofoam packing; thankfully it was double boxed. Picture is good, though there is some of the usual banding in darker scenes, generally not noticeable. I think everything works okay, but should I be concerned at all about the curve from side to side? It is very slight and can only be seen when eyeballing from the side ( like in your picture).

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

Disregard; I'd gotten behind on my reading of this thread.

Last edited by Superdog; 10-30-2017 at 11:19 AM.
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post #11841 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by tylerk86 View Post
Thoughts on the present “banding issue” in PC Mode?
Didn't notice it as once I discovered, very early on, that HDR would look anything but HDR in PC Mode I've only gone to it when playing SDR games which have looked and played well so far.
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post #11842 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by janice805 View Post
I'm still waiting for LG to call me back. The only way I can regain the sound is after switching HDMI inputs is to turn the TV OFF then ON again. But who wants to do that forever
Thanks. If I learn anything independently, I'll check back here.
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post #11843 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:14 AM
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Hey guys, I just recently pick up a 55" C7 and the SJ9 soundbar. Here is my current setup:
  • xbox one (and DVR using passthrough)-> SJ9 (via HDMI in) -> HDMI2 (ARC)
  • FireTV -> HDMI3
  • WiiU -> HDMI4
  • The SJ9 will automatically switch to HDMI ARC when I switch to HDMI3 or HDMI4, and I am able to control the volume using the TV remote. I have 2 issues:
  • When I go to HDMI2, the soundbar does not switch to HDMI IN automatically. I have to use the SJ9 remote and manually set it to HDMI IN. Is there a way to set it up to do this automatically?
  • Once i switch to HDMI IN and am able to use the xbox and dvr, I cannot use the tv remote to control the soundbar. Instead it controls the internal tv speaks, so I have to turn those all the way down to 0, and I then use the SJ9 remote to control the soundbar volumn. To be clear, the soundbar does output sound appropriately, I just would have expect the TV to bypass the internal speakers altogether, output to the soundbar, and allow me to use the TV remote to control the soundbar volume as it does when using HDMI ARC. Is there a way to set this up? If I change the sound output on the tv to HDMI ARC, then it switches the soundbar input to HDMI ARC and I lose the signal from the xbox on the HDMI IN port

I am kind of a noob to this stuff, so maybe what I want isnt possible, or maybe Im just an idiot and its super simple to setup and I am just missing it

Any help would be appreciated.
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post #11844 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post
What's your start-up order? I have used a Genie client with my B7 for over 3 months, no issues. Different port, but that shouldn't matter given they all have the same specs less 3 which is for ARC.
Thanks for the reply. I have the DTV remote set to handle everything, but it looks like the tv turns on first, then the box - sometimes I need to hit On a second time to get the DTV box to turn on.

This looks like it takes care of the video blinking on/off. I get some audio stutters at the beginning, but thats not a big issue.

Jon
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post #11845 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:16 AM
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In parts of this review the b7 shows a framed art screensaver. Is this a standard option? Is there a way to make it cycle slower?
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Question C7P Help Requested

Ok, let me try this again. My last message format got mangled and I cant edit it. So here is a cleaned up version for clarity sake

Hey guys, I just recently pick up a 55" C7 and the SJ9 soundbar. Here is my current setup:
  • xbox one (and DVR using passthrough)-> SJ9 (via HDMI in) -> HDMI2 (ARC)
  • FireTV -> HDMI3
  • WiiU -> HDMI4

The SJ9 will automatically switch to HDMI ARC when I switch to HDMI3 or HDMI4, and I am able to control the volume using the TV remote. I have 2 issues:
  1. When I go to HDMI2, the soundbar does not switch to HDMI IN automatically. I have to use the SJ9 remote and manually set it to HDMI IN. Is there a way to set it up to do this automatically?
  2. Once i switch to HDMI IN and am able to use the xbox and dvr, I cannot use the tv remote to control the soundbar. Instead it controls the internal tv speaks, so I have to turn those all the way down to 0, and I then use the SJ9 remote to control the soundbar volumn. To be clear, the soundbar does output sound appropriately, I just would have expect the TV to bypass the internal speakers altogether, output to the soundbar, and allow me to use the TV remote to control the soundbar volume as it does when using HDMI ARC. Is there a way to set this up? If I change the sound output on the tv to HDMI ARC, then it switches the soundbar input to HDMI ARC and I lose the signal from the xbox on the HDMI IN port

I am kind of a noob to this stuff, so maybe what I want isnt possible, or maybe Im just an idiot and its super simple to setup and I am just missing it

Any help would be appreciated.
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post #11847 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TohaLA View Post
From what I recall, if I set mode to Wide in SDR, colors looked over-saturated. Auto is the correct option for SDR I believe, and it does look the most natural when I watch SDR content.
Thanks for the info. Makes sense. When I get back home, I will switch it back to "Auto" and do some watching. I feel that the colors are also a little too saturated right now - especially flesh tones. This is probably why.

Thanks again.
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LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #11848 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Superdog View Post
FedEx beat the crap out of mine, bad enough to break some of the formed styrofoam packing; thankfully it was double boxed. Picture is good, though there is some of the usual banding in darker scenes, generally not noticeable. I think everything works okay, but should I be concerned at all about the curve from side to side? It is very slight and can only be seen when eyeballing from the side ( like in your picture).

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Disregard; I'd gotten behind on my reading of this thread.


Have you got a photo?
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post #11849 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by tylerk86 View Post
Thoughts on the present “banding issue” in PC Mode?
I notice banding in both PC mode and Game Console mode in SDR, but it's minor and probably down to the game using compressed sky boxes.
I'm using RGB Full range and ISF Dark in PC mode.

PC and HDR is broken, the color is totally off. Red appears more orange and there's tons of banding with YCbCr 4:2:2, less so with 4:2:0 but the colors are still wrong, hence why we use other modes for HDR gaming.

Anyone have thoughts on if Dynamic Contrast is recommended for HDR gaming? It's off by default
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post #11850 of 35940 Old 10-30-2017, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenBuja View Post
I notice banding in both PC mode and Game Console mode in SDR, but it's minor and probably down to the game using compressed sky boxes.

I'm using RGB Full range and ISF Dark in PC mode.



PC and HDR is broken, the color is totally off. Red appears more orange and there's tons of banding with YCbCr 4:2:2, less so with 4:2:0 but the colors are still wrong, hence why we use other modes for HDR gaming.



Anyone have thoughts on if Dynamic Contrast is necessary for HDR gaming? It's off by default


From my understanding, DC applies the same algorithm to HDR Game as it does to the HDR film modes.

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