2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 507 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15181 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Yes, unbox and use it
I did this, but the picture leave a lot to be desired compared to my nearly 10 year old Kuro.

Is there a guide to "dial-in" this TV? Much like D-Nice did way back when for the Elite Kuro plasmas?
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post #15182 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Festo View Post
The C7 is plastic. You have to move up to the E7 to get glass.
The c7 is plastic the e7 g7 are plastic on glass. I'd Mabey give the cat a new home. Lol might want to restrict the cat to another room they all can be scratched

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post #15183 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by william06 View Post
The c7 is plastic the e7 g7 are plastic on glass. I'd Mabey give the cat a new home. Lol might want to restrict the cat to another room they all can be scratched
or only show dog videos.

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post #15184 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JoE5005 View Post
Quick question. My buddy is picking one of these up, and he was asking about the HDR Game settings. I have an E6, so I wasn't sure if this carried over to the 2017 models.

Is it still necessary to use HDR Game with DC on Medium or High on the B7/C7? That's how I have it on my E6.
If you're referring to brightness then yes, DC should be set to high to even come close to HDR standard mode.
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post #15185 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:15 AM
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Anyone with 04.70.30 that could be so kind and check the brightness difference between HDR standard and HDR Game mode. Have they done anything to change this in the latest update. Thanks!
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post #15186 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1812dave View Post
I was hoping that the low input lag (or isn't it all that low?) of my 55 OLED would make me more often win "shootouts" in COD MW3, as compared to when I play on a cheap ASUS monitor. I still see a lot of replays that show me getting killed before my weapon is even close to pointing in the direction of my foe. How low must the lag be for me to be on an even playing field with competitive COD players? I feel that often I'm disadvantaged in online matches because it seems my enemies often draw a bead on me at the same (apparent) time I see them, but too often I get killed.


Most competitive players are playing on smaller screens that have almost no lag at all (think computer monitor). When you have a bigger monitor you need to compensate for not only the bigger lag time, but also the bigger screen where it takes longer for you to process the field. The low lag being discussed is in relation to TVs in general, TVs still are not as good as computer monitors. There is probably more to it than just the lag numbers and size of the screen.
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post #15187 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:23 AM
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Without too much derailing, this isn't input lag.

You are experiencing a P2P based game coupled with (potentially) lag compensation in effect. COD notoriously has poor to average at best net code. Never go by the kill cam, it is not an actual representation of what went down. Ultimately the packets are getting back to your Xbox a few milliseconds slower than your opponent, so while it looks like they got you as soon as you see that they saw you (dubbed "how the hell did they shoot me so fast, I just saw them") - they actually already saw you a split second earlier.

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Originally Posted by dave1812dave View Post
I was hoping that the low input lag (or isn't it all that low?) of my 55 OLED would make me more often win "shootouts" in COD MW3, as compared to when I play on a cheap ASUS monitor. I still see a lot of replays that show me getting killed before my weapon is even close to pointing in the direction of my foe. How low must the lag be for me to be on an even playing field with competitive COD players? I feel that often I'm disadvantaged in online matches because it seems my enemies often draw a bead on me at the same (apparent) time I see them, but too often I get killed.
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post #15188 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by eric.exe View Post
Any US C7 owners get 4.7.30 via the built-in updater yet? Nada for me. Interested in finally seeing YouTube HDR correctly...
I got it this morning.
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post #15189 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 09:28 AM
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Here's a thing I don't really understand;

I use these settings and are quite happy with them...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...l#post54906032

However, when I use my HTPC, the brigthness seem to differ alot on whites, even on the same page, it almost kind of blinks when the whites change.

How can this be?
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post #15190 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:07 AM
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My 65B7A will be delivered tomorrow morning (thank you Cleveland AV ). Waiting to view content is going to be torture since I will be immediately running slides non-stop until Sunday night. I'm finally replacing a 65VT30 (calibrated by D-Nice). I'll be using an Apple 4K TV and an XBOX One X for 4K Blu-rays until I can pick up a UDP-203. Can't wait to jump back into the forum!
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post #15191 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by NotLawReview View Post
I got it this morning.
Via the built in updater?
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post #15192 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Got it. Not shooting for perfection here, just getting it in the ball park.

But like I said, all other content on devices looks fantastic and very accurate to my eye (good enough, don't need further refinement) - but HDTV cable channels look oversaturated and blacks look washed out, whites clipping.

I guess I'll just play with the gamma by eye and some white balance 2 point correction by eye for the user mode I use for the TV channels.
ISF Dark for SDR and Cinema for HDR/DV should be more precise that you can do by manually adjusting color balance settings. Gamma/white balance controls is a mixture controls and without appropriate hardware it's not even guessing. It's believing I mean if you're happy with the results you're getting tuning TV set by eye - then that should be more than enough )

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post #15193 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Tango22 View Post
My 65B7A will be delivered tomorrow morning (thank you Cleveland AV ). Waiting to view content is going to be torture since I will be immediately running slides non-stop until Sunday night. I'm finally replacing a 65VT30 (calibrated by D-Nice). I'll be using an Apple 4K TV and an XBOX One X for 4K Blu-rays until I can pick up a UDP-203. Can't wait to jump back into the forum!
Are the slides a built-in feature to the tv for break-in
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post #15194 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:36 AM
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Hello all,

Is LG supporting HDR10+ for the B7/C7/E7..etc..?
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post #15195 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:37 AM
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Hi, I just got a 65" LG C7 OLED to replace my old Panasonic plasma.

Part of the reason I'm replacing the Panasonic is that one of my cats decided that the best way to get our attention while we're watching TV is to jump up in front of the TV and start scratching it until we start scolding her.

I initially thought the plasma surface was glass and wasn't too worried about it, but quickly realized that the screen was covered in scratches in the places where she liked to do this.

The new TV sits closer to the edge of our entertainment console, but still has enough room that she can just barely fit in front of it and she's already been trying to jump up and walk across in front of the screen.

Does anyone know if the LG OLED C7 has a glass or plastic screen? I can't find this info anywhere and I'm trying to gauge how much I have to worry about this behavior.

Thanks.
All LG OLEDs have plastic screens. The glass is just what the plastic screen is mounted on. The screen itself is still plastic.

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Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
The cleaning instructions for the screen suggest that it's fragile.

The panel is obviously glass, but the antireflection coating on it may be very susceptible to scratching. I hope that it's not as bad as last year's Samsung KS series coating; I wouldn't have recommended one of those for a house with small children, unless they could be prevented from leaving greasy fingerprints all over the screen.

I hope that you can keep the cat away from it without too much trauma (for the cat).
The panel is not obviously glass, as it's plastic.

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Originally Posted by Festo View Post
The C7 is plastic. You have to move up to the E7 to get glass.
You can seriously blame LG for people believing the screen is glass on the E7. It's not. It's just a stupid glass frame the plastic screen is mounted on. The screens on the B7 all the way through the W7 are all plastic. LG's marketing is ridiculous, - as is the glass frame. Honestly, the frame could just as well be plastic and nobody would notice or care.

Again, for the last time - all screens are plastic.
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post #15196 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by smakovits View Post
Are the slides a built-in feature to the tv for break-in
No, it's just people running slides when they could be watching TV. Honestly, just turn the TV on and watch it.
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post #15197 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 10:55 AM
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Are the slides a built-in feature to the tv for break-in
No, they are not. I downloaded D-Nice's slides from the calibration thread.
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post #15198 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post
No, it's just people running slides when they could be watching TV. Honestly, just turn the TV on and watch it.
Reading AVSForum, I realized that people are buying very expensive TV's in order to watch slides.
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post #15199 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Muyfa666 View Post
Here's a thing I don't really understand;

I use these settings and are quite happy with them...

REDACTED

However, when I use my HTPC, the brigthness seem to differ alot on whites, even on the same page, it almost kind of blinks when the whites change.

How can this be?
I registered just to reply to you.. this has probably been talked about in this thread somewhere already however. Havent finished reading it all yet.

Its likely ABL or automatic brightness limiter, limiting the power output of the screen when all of the nodes are max performing, i.e. displaying white light over a large amount of the screen. Apparently the 7 types (B7, C7,..) are capable of being brighter than the 6 types (B6, C6,..) so this is less pronounced but still a "feature" of these types of displays.

I think that's what you're experiencing, at least.

FWIW, I got a 65 B7A on its way tomorrow or the next day.
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post #15200 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by satchmo0016 View Post
I registered just to reply to you.. this has probably been talked about in this thread somewhere already however. Havent finished reading it all yet.



Its likely ABL or automatic brightness limiter, limiting the power output of the screen when all of the nodes are max performing, i.e. displaying white light over a large amount of the screen. Apparently the 7 types (B7, C7,..) are capable of being brighter than the 6 types (B6, C6,..) so this is less pronounced but still a "feature" of these types of displays.



I think that's what you're experiencing, at least.



FWIW, I got a 65 B7A on its way tomorrow or the next day.


Sounds about right. Any way around it, or just deal with it?
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post #15201 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Muyfa666 View Post
Sounds about right. Any way around it, or just deal with it?
Sorry for bumping,

Are there any updates regarding LG and HDR10+? I'll stop bumping at this point. Thanks!
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post #15202 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Muyfa666 View Post
Sounds about right. Any way around it, or just deal with it?
As far as I know, its a feature that is designed for safety reasons. You could perhaps lower the backlight level so that the overall brightness never reaches the threshold that ABL would kick in, but then you wouldnt be getting the brightest picture.

I just discovered this guy on youtube, seems extremely knowledgeable about TVs and he talks about ABL at about 4:35

youtu.be/F9OvPfPd8s0?t=4m35s
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post #15203 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:17 AM
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Anyone know how one can run slides while away from the TV? The screensaver keeps kicking in after 2 minutes when I tried running slides via USB plugged into the TV.

And no, I didn't buy the TV to watch slides. I just would like to run them for the hours between leaving home and coming back from work. After I get home there's no way I can resist not watching actual content.
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post #15204 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:18 AM
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I’ll try some settings. Maybe create s PC profile or so. It’s not a very big deal.
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post #15205 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post
All LG OLEDs have plastic screens. The glass is just what the plastic screen is mounted on. The screen itself is still plastic.



The panel is not obviously glass, as it's plastic.



You can seriously blame LG for people believing the screen is glass on the E7. It's not. It's just a stupid glass frame the plastic screen is mounted on. The screens on the B7 all the way through the W7 are all plastic. LG's marketing is ridiculous, - as is the glass frame. Honestly, the frame could just as well be plastic and nobody would notice or care.

Again, for the last time - all screens are plastic.
I'm not sure that I used language correctly.

I have an OLED55B7A. From what you say, I'd guess that the screen is a thin plastic sheet bonded to a more rigid glass plate. (The substrate seems too heavy, and too rigid, for it to be plastic.) Is that correct? If so, it's even more fragile than I imagined.

I mentioned an AR coating because I assume that it has one. rtings.com claims a reflectance of 0.4%, which wouldn't be expected for bare plastic.
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post #15206 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post
All LG OLEDs have plastic screens. The glass is just what the plastic screen is mounted on. The screen itself is still plastic.



The panel is not obviously glass, as it's plastic.



You can seriously blame LG for people believing the screen is glass on the E7. It's not. It's just a stupid glass frame the plastic screen is mounted on. The screens on the B7 all the way through the W7 are all plastic. LG's marketing is ridiculous, - as is the glass frame. Honestly, the frame could just as well be plastic and nobody would notice or care.

Again, for the last time - all screens are plastic.

From the Specs on best buy website.... E7 Picture-on-Glass Design, OLED, Pixel level dimming, Perfect black, Infinite contrast, Billion Rich Colors

C7 Blade slim design, OLED, Pixel level dimming, Perfect black, Infinite contrast, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy

So if they are the same then why the difference in specs? Why does it say Picture-on-Glass for the E7 but not the C7? What are they refering to in that case.
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post #15207 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
I'm not sure that I used language correctly.

I have an OLED55B7A. From what you say, I'd guess that the screen is a thin plastic sheet bonded to a more rigid glass plate. (The substrate seems too heavy, and too rigid, for it to be plastic.) Is that correct? If so, it's even more fragile than I imagined.

I mentioned an AR coating because I assume that it has one. rtings.com claims a reflectance of 0.4%, which wouldn't be expected for bare plastic.
The AR coating is irrelevant in terms of the panel cover material. AR is just a coating. It's a plastic screen with a metal bezel/back. It's plastic, for the last time.
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post #15208 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festo View Post
From the Specs on best buy website.... E7 Picture-on-Glass Design, OLED, Pixel level dimming, Perfect black, Infinite contrast, Billion Rich Colors

C7 Blade slim design, OLED, Pixel level dimming, Perfect black, Infinite contrast, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy

So if they are the same then why the difference in specs? Why does it say Picture-on-Glass for the E7 but not the C7? What are they refering to in that case.
Because LG is a master at misleading people when it comes to this.

For the last, last time (because the last time wasn't the last last last time), the screen itself is PLASTIC.

The picture-on-glass means the PLASTIC screen is mounted on a GLASS backing.

Here's a better example/analogy for you:

Say I have a piece of paper (the paper in this example is the screen), and I place that piece of paper on a sheet of glass. Now, what is the screen made of? Right. Paper. Just because the screen is stuck to a piece of glass doesn't make the screen glass.

I swear, the number of people buying E series OLEDs thinking the screen is glass must be... innumerable.
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post #15209 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Muyfa666 View Post
Sorry if this have been asked already...

I bought a LG OLED55C7V on a black friday deal and have been playing around with the settings. I'm fairly happy with it now, but I guess they are far from "correct".

Are there any good in-depth guide on the optimal settings? Priority are gaming and 4K movies via Xbox One X, so I may have to compromise gaming/movie settings?

It's a great TV btw. :-)
Update your set to the latest 4.70.30 firmware. You may have to download it from LG's site and install it with a flash drive. It will add a new Technicolor Expert mode (it also fixed the notorious YouTube HDR issue that previous updates had screwed up). My C7 was professionally calibrated using the ISF Bright and Dark modes and the new Technicolor mode is very close to my ISF Bright mode for 4k and HDR movies right out of the chute. It's OLED Light is set to 80 but if you take down to anywhere between 60-70 depending on your room lighting, you may be very pleased with the results. Technicolor is also good for up-scaled 1080P Blu-rays and even for cable but again you can play with the OLED light settings for each HDMI input. Congrats on your new toy.
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post #15210 of 36418 Old 11-28-2017, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ameanz View Post
HDMI 2 on my LG C7 tv is marked as ARC.... So My TV is using HDMI 2 to run the TV/Audio to the reciever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup I miss understood or read to fast.
No, I'm running one HDMI for sound and video to my Denon AVR-S930H (bluray player input). My TV is wall mounted and I have everything running to Reciever. I have one HDMI cable that I setup through the wall to run to my TV for a clean install. My reciever supports the Dolby Atmos and Vision so I have it all running through it. When I watch movies it seems to be doing a great job.

I think the adapter is the way to go for me. Atleast I'm going to try that first. Running a 2nd HDMI through the wall is last resort. That was a pain to get one going.

Mike


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