2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 56 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1651 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by video_analysis View Post
This happened before to an owner with a 2016 model, but I don't remember what the final outcome was. Usually, if it's from letterbox content, it clears on the next auto comp. cycle, but it seems yours is limited exclusively to the top portion of the screen.
Yeah very strange. I can't think of anything I would have watched that could have created it. I'm really careful with what I watch with TVs until the get a good amount of hours too. I'll check again tonight when it's dark to see if it disappeared.

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post #1652 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 04:59 AM
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@Emanuele you can use the apps from the UHD Player to stream DV and ATMOS videos. You use the audio out HDMI to the sound bar and the video out for the TV.
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post #1653 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Emanuele Vagnino View Post
thanks..that was my fear

so there's no way to have a net feed like netflix with DV + ATMOS (supposing the content exists)

or, if you player supports both DV & ATMOS, I can use the app from the UHD player and have both ?
can DV be passed to LG TV via HDMI ?
You can't get Atmos or other lossless audio from the TV's clients until that functionality gets added to HDMI-ARC, which might never happen for 2017 sets. But if you use an external streamer that supports it (like blue ray player, Roku, etc) to a receiver that will pass through the video or with separate outputs like UHD players often do, then that works fine. Mind you, I know of no streaming service that offers audio above lossy DD+ 5.1. The streaming business is not focussed on audio quality at all unfortunately because the average customer doesn't care and it just adds bandwidth and more file formats they need to store.

I would love to see TrueHD, Atmos or DTS-HD streamed from Netflix but I think we are years away from that. Whoever does it first will get my moneys though.
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post #1654 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 06:04 AM
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So had a chance to check after the forced comp cycle and it looks like it took care of that top horizontal IR band. Still need to check when it gets dark out to be sure though.

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post #1655 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 06:09 AM
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Sorry but that is very bad worse then I think any e6 I had replaced you really need to do something with that it's unacceptable period.
Yeah I think it's time to move on this. Now that it's developed that horizontal bar I'm really not happy. Well I wasn't all that happy about it before. That bar is not going away and I was catching it in content last night. I'm not sure what's really going on since I can't figure what could have caused it. Running a comp cycle now to see if it goes away.

I know I've gone back and forth on this, but all I know at the moment is I have a very expensive TV in my house that I don't like and rather not use. I'm a movie nut too so this is bordering on the painful.

Oh ISF Dark for the most part.
If I remember right I think you purchased it from VE? If so send him a pic of that and work with him on it as I know he will find that not right.
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post #1656 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by donkrx View Post
At roughly 50 hours things are continuing to improve. I had one comp cycle that made a poor change, but that's already been resolved and it's now at a new best. I attached a 1/3rd size photo of the 5% slide in this post, but you can see the original full size photo in my imgur album HERE. I'm curious what you guys think.

I checked Arrival again now in the grass panning sequence which, for reference, occurs at roughly 00:17:30 to 00:19:30. I can just barely make out two very faint bands between 18:40-19:25. The rest of the grass panning sequence is fault free for me, and many other scenes which I expected to see problems are error free. Given this, it is now clear to me that unless your set is virtually perfect, you WILL at some point see banding in real content. If you don't own an OLED yet, don't buy one expecting to never see problems. You will. I'm still very happy with this one though... the bands are so faint that they are hard to see unless I'm looking for them, and they don't draw my attention away from the content.

I'm willing to bet the compensation algorithm could be improved. One idea that I had that might be interesting is if they allowed the user to tell the TV whether the last compensation cycle was better, or worse. It could potentially use that information for future comp cycles. Does Sony and Panasonic have their own proprietary algorithms or do they just use the one that LG does?
So what TV should one buy where you will never see problems? I think we both know the answer to that question.

I just hope my C7 doesn't have abnormal vignetting issues and at this point I feel you're a bit unlucky if you do. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.

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post #1657 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 08:07 AM
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Thanks so much! I'll give these tips a try.
So I'm still struggling to dial in my Directv picture on my new 65C7. The picture looks very grainy and nasty on HD channels. I have the C61K box with Native Off. Any tips or tricks others have done to clear up the picture?
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post #1658 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 08:10 AM
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Good luck. I hope you're right and you get a vignette free C7 or at least one with truly minimal vignetting. It'll give me some hope that if I in some can get a replacement it'll be a lot better than what I have now.

Otherwise I'm gonna keep an eye on the Sony owner's thread and hope they keep comimg in with minimal banding only. If I see that happening I'll have to unload my C7 in some way.

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post #1659 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 08:44 AM
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Has anyone noticed that Comcast looks like crap on the C7? It must be the upscaler in LG. My Samsung js9500 does a excellent job with Comcast so I was a little disappointed when I saw how it looks on the C7. Anyone else a Comcast customer and has figured out a way to make the picture look sharper and not so blurry?
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post #1660 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by VidPro View Post
Good luck. I hope you're right and you get a vignette free C7 or at least one with truly minimal vignetting. It'll give me some hope that if I in some can get a replacement it'll be a lot better than what I have now.

Otherwise I'm gonna keep an eye on the Sony owner's thread and hope they keep comimg in with minimal banding only. If I see that happening I'll have to unload my C7 in some way.
At first I didn't think you had a snowflake's chance in hell of getting a panel replacement but based upon your last slide I now think I was dead wrong and strongly recommend going through the process of trying to get a replacement panel from LG as soon as you have the time.

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post #1661 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by letterist View Post
Has anyone noticed that Comcast looks like crap on the C7? It must be the upscaler in LG. My Samsung js9500 does a excellent job with Comcast so I was a little disappointed when I saw how it looks on the C7. Anyone else a Comcast customer and has figured out a way to make the picture look sharper and not so blurry?
It's not the C7 upscaler Everyone makes this same ridiculous comment.

Something is not set up properly. Make sure that the Comcast box is set to out native or 1080i or p, which ever it has. Then use a picture mode like ISF dark or bright and you should be good. You can also try raising the sharpness, only for cable, to 15-20 without hurting anything. Also make sure that the noise reduction controls on the C7 are both set to OFF.

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post #1662 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 09:29 AM
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Yep did everything you said. Still doesn't look very good.
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post #1663 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 09:40 AM
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The remote & other questions?

Sorry if these are kind of newbie questions, but since there isn't anything in the OP with a summary of these sets eg: links etc,

1. I read nothing about this anywhere that I found. What type of remotes are these? IR or something else? Can these be used with programmable, especially 'learning' IR remotes? If not, then how does one use a typical programmable IR remote??

2. This black uniformity problem that so many have posted screen shots of, what is the cause of this especially those vertical bars on the right side that seem to be in every screen shot to one extent or the other.

3. This elaborate 'break in' procedure which is really ridiculous AFAIC, is this just to 'age' the individual cells (diodes) to balance (break-in) them out, or is there more to it?

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Recording free OTA TV for 'time shifting' has been here since 1975. Will there be DVR's to do the same when ATSC3 obsoletes existing DVR's??
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post #1664 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
At first I didn't think you had a snowflake's chance in hell of getting a panel replacement but based upon your last slide I now think I was dead wrong and strongly recommend going through the process of trying to get a replacement panel from LG as soon as you have the time.
Thank you. Sending pics later.

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post #1665 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 09:49 AM
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So what TV should one buy where you will never see problems? I think we both know the answer to that question.
A TV where you never see problems? Best bet is a TV that never turns on

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post #1666 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 10:04 AM
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A TV where you never see problems? Best bet is a TV that never turns on
My 60VT60 come close.

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post #1667 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 10:45 AM
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Sorry if these are kind of newbie questions, but since there isn't anything in the OP with a summary of these sets eg: links etc,

1. I read nothing about this anywhere that I found. What type of remotes are these? IR or something else? Can these be used with programmable, especially 'learning' IR remotes? If not, then how does one use a typical programmable IR remote??

2. This black uniformity problem that so many have posted screen shots of, what is the cause of this especially those vertical bars on the right side that seem to be in every screen shot to one extent or the other.

3. This elaborate 'break in' procedure which is really ridiculous AFAIC, is this just to 'age' the individual cells (diodes) to balance (break-in) them out, or is there more to it?
I'll tackle the easy one, yes these televisions have an IR sensor and a third party IR remote such as a Harmony will work with no problem.
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post #1668 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 10:56 AM
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The reason for the concern was, isn't there another line of sets that don't have IR remotes? That silly 'wand'??

I watched a couple of video reviews and see that Goldstar uses a 'pointer' indicator. That is done thru the IR remote??

.
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Recording free OTA TV for 'time shifting' has been here since 1975. Will there be DVR's to do the same when ATSC3 obsoletes existing DVR's??
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post #1669 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 10:57 AM
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Yep did everything you said. Still doesn't look very good.
Do you have an OTA antenna laying around. That way you can determine if the problem lies with the TV or the DTV signal going to the TV. Just a suggestion for troubleshooting.
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post #1670 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 11:14 AM
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The reason for the concern was, isn't there another line of sets that don't have IR remotes? That silly 'wand'??

I watched a couple of video reviews and see that Goldstar uses a 'pointer' indicator. That is done thru the IR remote??
I'm not entirely sure how the magic (wand) remote works on the LG televisions but before getting the EG9100 I had your same concern since I would be using a Harmony remote. The "stub" at the bottom center of the panel is the IR sensor.

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post #1671 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 11:21 AM
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A TV where you never see problems? Best bet is a TV that never turns on
That's a fact right there......It is what it is out there, OLED seems to be the best technology for TV's to date in my eye's.....
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post #1672 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 11:37 AM
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That's a fact right there......It is what it is out there, OLED seems to be the best technology for TV's to date in my eye's.....
I agree but there's a difference between having to stare at a screen for awhile to pick up the flaws and just seeing them in content pulling you out of whatever you are watching.

My 500M which was "perfect" by most standards had blotchy blacks. A choice few pixels lit and my eyes would adjust and no blotchiness. I'd have to stare at a black screen in complete darkness to see it. Not an ounce of being bothered by it. It was always pure joy watching a movie on it.

Now take my C7. PLEASE! A little Henny Youngman there...anyway take my C7. With the right content like horror movies which are typically set in the dark for a lot of scenes, seeing vignetting or banding (which for me is not a deal breaker within reason) it pulls me right out of it and I think about vignetting instead. LOL!
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post #1673 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 01:24 PM
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That's a fact right there......It is what it is out there, OLED seems to be the best technology for TV's to date in my eye's.....
It sure beats LED . But not worth the diff in my 60VT60 at such a high price.

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post #1674 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 02:13 PM
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I agree but there's a difference between having to stare at a screen for awhile to pick up the flaws and just seeing them in content pulling you out of whatever you are watching.

My 500M which was "perfect" by most standards had blotchy blacks. A choice few pixels lit and my eyes would adjust and no blotchiness. I'd have to stare at a black screen in complete darkness to see it. Not an ounce of being bothered by it. It was always pure joy watching a movie on it.

Now take my C7. PLEASE! A little Henny Youngman there...anyway take my C7. With the right content like horror movies which are typically set in the dark for a lot of scenes, seeing vignetting or banding (which for me is not a deal breaker within reason) it pulls me right out of it and I think about vignetting instead. LOL!
This is my experience exactly, after 2 weeks with my B7. Except I've never noticed blotchy blacks. I just uploaded an ad to sell my KRP-500M Pioneer Kuro to ebay, and I already have seller's remorse. Is that a thing? I would love to get a hold of a 60" Kuro, but they are rarely available in my area. Side-by-side my Kuro is remarkably close to the OLED. Amazing, considering the age of the plasma tech.

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post #1675 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 02:30 PM
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Width of stand?

My searches have borne no fruit: what is the width of the OLED65C7P stand, i.e., the minimum width of the supporting surface?

Edit: my Fry's salesman says the base is 24" W x 10" D. (LG customer service said it was 60" W, which I knew was wrong; they called back to say it is "between 40 and 45 inches." But the agent was extremely polite and solicitous.)

Edit: the stand is now in my home; the part of it that contacts the supporting surface, i.e., the very front and back, is 22.5" W, 8.5" D.

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post #1676 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 03:09 PM
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This is my experience exactly, after 2 weeks with my B7. Except I've never noticed blotchy blacks. I just uploaded an ad to sell my KRP-500M Pioneer Kuro to ebay, and I already have seller's remorse. Is that a thing? I would love to get a hold of a 60" Kuro, but they are rarely available in my area. Side-by-side my Kuro is remarkably close to the OLED. Amazing, considering the age of the plasma tech.
It's very close but when it comes to UHD material it can't hang obviously. Add HDR and perfect blacks, and it is whole new ballgame with an OLED. Now that being said, I tweaked my 500M's voltages when the red tint reared its ugly head and I had those blacks (with a bit of black rain) pretty close to an OLED. So yeah, I kind of miss my 500M now but the extra screen size is pretty awesome so in that regard I can't go back. Too bad Pioneer left the biz when so close to getting the blacks we all wanted.
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post #1677 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 04:29 PM
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So what TV should one buy where you will never see problems? I think we both know the answer to that question.
I don't disagree with you (that no TV is perfect), but to me this point doesn't seem help with the decision of whether or not to buy any given TV.

The thing is, yes, the C7 is a great TV and I do recommend it. But based on my experience I would recommend a buyer to make sure they understand the common issues, and have an option to exchange it, or get a refund. I knew about the banding issue and purchased it anyway - but until I got to work with it in person, I didn't know what I was dealing with. I could see how some more critical eyes out there might be surprised and disappointed. Right now in 2017 most of the people looking to seriously buy these TVs are going to have a fairly critical eye. There is no "average person" in this realm right now. These sets are very expensive.

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Yeah I think it's time to move on this. Now that it's developed that horizontal bar I'm really not happy. Well I wasn't all that happy about it before. That bar is not going away and I was catching it in content last night. I'm not sure what's really going on since I can't figure what could have caused it. Running a comp cycle now to see if it goes away.

I know I've gone back and forth on this, but all I know at the moment is I have a very expensive TV in my house that I don't like and rather not use. I'm a movie nut too so this is bordering on the painful.
That horizontal bar might be worse than my first C7's vertical bar. I'd get rid of it, it looks bad. I think the chance is high that rolling the dice on an exchange will at least get you something better. Just trying to give you the supportive kick in the right direction.

That showed up at 400 hours in? That's shocking and a bit concerning for me. I'll keep an eye out for that.

I'm guessing due to your lack of follow up that the horizontal bar did not go away after the comp cycle? This is one time where I might expect that to work.

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post #1678 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 05:03 PM
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^His horizontal anomaly did clear.
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Originally Posted by videobruce View Post
The reason for the concern was, isn't there another line of sets that don't have IR remotes? That silly 'wand'??

I watched a couple of video reviews and see that Goldstar uses a 'pointer' indicator. That is done thru the IR remote??
I suspect the pointer is powered by Bluetooth.
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post #1679 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hresna View Post
You can't get Atmos or other lossless audio from the TV's clients until that functionality gets added to HDMI-ARC, which might never happen for 2017 sets. But if you use an external streamer that supports it (like blue ray player, Roku, etc) to a receiver that will pass through the video or with separate outputs like UHD players often do, then that works fine. Mind you, I know of no streaming service that offers audio above lossy DD+ 5.1. The streaming business is not focussed on audio quality at all unfortunately because the average customer doesn't care and it just adds bandwidth and more file formats they need to store.

I would love to see TrueHD, Atmos or DTS-HD streamed from Netflix but I think we are years away from that. Whoever does it first will get my moneys though.
My use case is slightly different, in that I have locally stored videos which have TrueHD or Atmos 7.1 audio tracks, and I'm trying to play them with the TV's DLNA client. They can't even play the audio track, and report an error that the video contains no audio. I was hoping this would work, to passthrough the audio to my receiver. I don't have an ARC capable receiver yet, but it doesn't look like it would matter, so I'll stick with what I have now and continue to use Optical out of the TV.

Sounds like HMDI-ARC doesn't currently support outputting this audio either, so I'm limited unless I want to go to a 4K receiver and run everything through that. I was hoping to go direct to the TV so that I could dial in my adjustments for each input, and send audio out with 1 cable, but it just doesn't look like that's going to be an option.
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post #1680 of 36579 Old 05-06-2017, 05:24 PM
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Does this C7 get brighter than the A1?
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