2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 573 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #17161 of 36392 Old 12-13-2017, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z06_Pilot View Post
hi folks,

i was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why when I plugged my Roku 4k/60p HDR streaming device into HDMI 2 or 3, I could not get HDR content from Netflix. Only when I plug it into HDMI 1 do I get HDR material.

I talked with LG and they said that only HDMI 1 can do 60fps. HDMI 2/3 are limited to 30fps.

I'm just wondering if anyone knows why that would be and is that typical with HDR-capable TV's?

thanks very much.

Jeff
It doesn't really make much difference because almost all of the content that you might stream/playback from a Roku P+, including 4K/HDR/WCG material has a native chroma of 4:2:2 @ 24Hz. That means that you could plug your Roku into HDMI 2 and do a reset and go through the display setup; and it will adjust itself to the 30fps port, and you will still have the full monty in terms of PQ. The same applies for UHD Blu-ray playback. The bandwidth utilization is all under 10.2Gb so it will also fit within HDMI 1.4's limitations.

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
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post #17162 of 36392 Old 12-13-2017, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by noobtv View Post
Are there 1080p OLEDs? I thought all the panels available were exactly the same, even across different brands.
Yes, LG has them. Take the 55EG9A7V, e.g.

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post #17163 of 36392 Old 12-13-2017, 11:00 PM
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How paranoid should I be about burn in? This is my first OLED.

For example, I've been listening to spotify through my xbox one, and there are a few elements on the screen that have remained static for the last 2-3 hours.

Should I, uh, not do that?
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post #17164 of 36392 Old 12-13-2017, 11:03 PM
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2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsten View Post
How paranoid should I be about burn in? This is my first OLED.



For example, I've been listening to spotify through my xbox one, and there are a few elements on the screen that have remained static for the last 2-3 hours.



Should I, uh, not do that?


Don’t worry about it. Just enjoy your TV. :-)
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post #17165 of 36392 Old 12-13-2017, 11:05 PM
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Returned my 65 B7A due to yellow tint on the left side and just got a 65 E7P as a replacement. It seems to have very little yellow tint so I'm pleased, there is some banding but I'm hoping that time and slides will alleviate it, I had already noticed it getting better during my short time with the B7A. One issue: the first thing I did was upgrade to the new firmware (4.70.36) and now the Dolby Access app that comes pre-installed on our TV's won't load it just swirls a blue circle, I've tried deleting and re-installing but to no avail. It worked fine on the B7A, has anyone else had this issue on the new firmware? I don't "need" the app to work, it was nice to verify and demo Atmos sound and DV but it's no biggie, I just found it curious.
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post #17166 of 36392 Old 12-13-2017, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CometManTriumph View Post
Hello there, after the update i can confirm that subtitles are still auto recognized by the tv when using external usb hdd for .mkv playback, all .srt are auto loaded if they have the same name of the .mkv video file. So at least lg didnt broke that.

after 2 days using the tv, tried loading the 5% grey slide and noticed banding and some image retention, cant notice anything in real life content, but seeing the slide in a dark room, you can really notice the banding and image retention. the iphone taken picture looks worse than reality.
I've had my C7P for only 4 days, I did check the 5% and it looks horrible, way worse than yours. However, even being that bad, I have not been able to see it in a variety of content. The tv looks amazing under any condition and I've watched dark, light, SDR, HDR, DV, even the "OLED death scene" in Marco Polo. Can't see it. Obsessing over a 5% gray field is like zooming into your camera shots 1600% and saying oh my god, the artifacts are horrible! Well, yes, but unless you are printing your photos 12 feet wide, you are never going to see that. So, I'm just not going to worry about it.

Now I DO see the "yellow on the left side" problem, however I generally only notice it on ads using full-field white, which I generally skip over anyway. I may try the UV flashlight trick to see if it improves it.

Last edited by Nigel_Tufnel; 12-13-2017 at 11:18 PM.
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post #17167 of 36392 Old 12-13-2017, 11:57 PM
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[QUOTE=CometManTriumph;55310168]Hello there, after the update i can confirm that subtitles are still auto recognized by the tv when using external usb hdd for .mkv playback, all .srt are auto loaded if they have the same name of the .mkv video file. So at least lg didnt broke that.

I have some updates to my issue (still on FW 04.70.30), which is so weird! For some .mkv's the .srt-file in the folder shows up perfectly and it all works like a charm, but then for others, with EXACT same setup (.srt-file in the same folder with the same filename as the .mkv), it doesn't work at all. The "sub" icon is greyed out and it doesn't matter if I rename both the .mkv and .srt to shorter file names.. I believe that another AVS-forum brother explained it well "it's hit or miss" - and I totally agree, for some subs all is great but for others - not so much...
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post #17168 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 02:07 AM
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[quote=dunderde;55316366]
Quote:
Originally Posted by CometManTriumph View Post
Hello there, after the update i can confirm that subtitles are still auto recognized by the tv when using external usb hdd for .mkv playback, all .srt are auto loaded if they have the same name of the .mkv video file. So at least lg didnt broke that.

I have some updates to my issue (still on FW 04.70.30), which is so weird! For some .mkv's the .srt-file in the folder shows up perfectly and it all works like a charm, but then for others, with EXACT same setup (.srt-file in the same folder with the same filename as the .mkv), it doesn't work at all. The "sub" icon is greyed out and it doesn't matter if I rename both the .mkv and .srt to shorter file names.. I believe that another AVS-forum brother explained it well "it's hit or miss" - and I totally agree, for some subs all is great but for others - not so much...
Could it be line endings? ie windows or linux line endings?

Also the mkv's could already have embedded subtitles, so the TV ignores the external ones?
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post #17169 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 02:33 AM
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[quote=noobtv;55316508]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunderde View Post

Could it be line endings? ie windows or linux line endings?

Also the mkv's could already have embedded subtitles, so the TV ignores the external ones?
on my set even on mkv whit various embedded subtitles it always opted for the external ones, mine doesnt show anything if internal subs are selected.

maybe the problem is the type of sub selected on options, latim, arabic and other types, if the wrong type is selected the subtitle wont show up.
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post #17170 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 04:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsten View Post
How paranoid should I be about burn in? This is my first OLED.

For example, I've been listening to spotify through my xbox one, and there are a few elements on the screen that have remained static for the last 2-3 hours.

Should I, uh, not do that?
The Xbox has options to dim the picture after a minute or two when no controller inputs are detected. Also, you can manually run a pixel refresh (happens once the TV is turned off) which is just above the 'screen shift' option (most people leave screen shift off). You could also manually make and choose a picture mode with very low settings for when you listen to music. I'm not saying anything is necessary, but it can't hurt to use them.
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post #17171 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by hailjack View Post
I have to do the same but with the LG UP970 uhd player when I switch to it. Have to slightly remove and insert the HDMI again for the picture to show up. Kind of annoying.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
I have never had that problem with my UP970 and AFAIK it has not been reported over in the UP970 thread as a pervasive problem. Sounds like an HDMI cable issue to me.

Mark
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post #17172 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 05:30 AM
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Hi,
Does anyone know if it is possible to add YouTube videos to your Watch Later list from the LG internal app and if so how to do it ?

LG 77C8 (UK) - Arcam AVR 850 - Arcam FMJ P7 - 7.2.4 Atmos setup.
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post #17173 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 05:49 AM
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Hey Guys, im having a strange issue, I updated to 4.70.30 on my 65B7A and have audio issues. I have my tv hooked to my denon 3400h over arc. TV audio works fine but when I select the built in netflix or amazon video apps the sound stays with the tv and no app audio.
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post #17174 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by noobtv View Post
Just to clarify, do you have the satellite and the game into different HDMI ports?

Not both through an AVR that then goes into only a single HDMI port on the LG?

I personally hate HDR Effect so haven't tested it but I would presume that it should work just like the other settings, and remember what you set it as. It's not normal if it doesn't remember.

If it makes any difference, I use ISF Expert (Dark Room) mode at gamma 2.2 for SDR, I find the darks too crushed at BT1886. I mostly use sonoftumble's settings.

edit: actually, you don't have auto power saving or eye strain settings enabled, do you? Auto power saving would probably do something like this if the room changed light levels.
Yes, both the satellite and game are on different HDMI inputs. I believe that I have power saving and eye strain settings off. I know for sure eye strain is off and once I got the tv I turned off the mode that dims the tv based on light (I believe that is power saving). Not sure why it is different from going to source to source or turning the tv off.
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post #17175 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_42 View Post
Yes, both the satellite and game are on different HDMI inputs. I believe that I have power saving and eye strain settings off. I know for sure eye strain is off and once I got the tv I turned off the mode that dims the tv based on light (I believe that is power saving). Not sure why it is different from going to source to source or turning the tv off.
I think it's call Eco mode. Make sure that is disabled. The Game picture mode is dimmer because they are using black frame insertion for better motion handling. Really dims things down.

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #17176 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bklynblaze View Post
I agree with you. However, in comparison videos the Sony X930E will always look better because of the brightness but you can’t capture the better color and contrast of the Oled. You really have to see them side by side in person. Videos online are deceiving and don’t do OLED justice.
That might be correct, but there is a deeper question. With both TV properly ISF calibrated, same viewing condition, and watching for say a couple of hours, how would each be rated on:
- overall brightness
- quality of picture & colors
- eye strain
This test is impossible for most buyers.
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post #17177 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 06:40 AM
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I think it's call Eco mode. Make sure that is disabled. The Game picture mode is dimmer because they are using black frame insertion for better motion handling. Really dims things down.
So is Eco Mode and Power Saving mode two different options?

I understand Game mode to be darker. I actually use ISF Bright and custom settings for my PS4 anyways. I game with a darker screen and have for years in a way to avoid IR.

The question is, why when I use HDR Mode for my settings (which has giving me my most acceptable settings) change when I switch inputs for a period of time and then go back to my satellite. Again, there is the initial setting of it, which I get looking good, go to bed at night, get up in the morning and it looks different. I change it so it looks good again. All fine. Then when I play one game for 30 min and go back to the satellite, it has changed how it looks again and reverted back to the original look. Now I know I can change it again, but once it is left off for a few hours it will change back to before I played the game and I will have to adjust it again.
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post #17178 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mjwagner View Post
I have never had that problem with my UP970 and AFAIK it has not been reported over in the UP970 thread as a pervasive problem. Sounds like an HDMI cable issue to me.
Yeah, I wasn't insinuating that it's a UP970 problem. I was just quoting his post saying I have to do the same thing with different hardware. So either a port issue or HDMI issue, yes.
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post #17179 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPlayer View Post
That might be correct, but there is a deeper question. With both TV properly ISF calibrated, same viewing condition, and watching for say a couple of hours, how would each be rated on:
- overall brightness
- quality of picture & colors
- eye strain
This test is impossible for most buyers.
Well I’d say the Oled takes 2 outta 3. Only losing in the overall brightness. But like I said the Oled seemed bright enough. At least from what I saw from comparing in the store.
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post #17180 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 07:33 AM
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Two questions

Hi!

I have two questions about my new C7 (I had it for a couple of months now).

First, I can't make the Dolby Access app to work. When I click on a video, I get a never ending rotating icon in the middle of the screen. There are controls underneath but they are unresponsive. I deleted and re-installed the app without success. I have a JS9 attached to the TV so I would love to see some sample videos of Dolby Atmos, but for some reason this doesn't work. I live in NYC and I am subscribed to RCN (330Mb) internet. Any solutions to this?

Second, while doing the research to get this TV, I read somewhere that it is possible to record some TV shows if I add an external hard drive to the set. I haven't seen the option in the menu. Is this possible or was a bad review?

Thank you very much for your answers.

Gus
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post #17181 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsten View Post
How paranoid should I be about burn in? This is my first OLED.

For example, I've been listening to spotify through my xbox one, and there are a few elements on the screen that have remained static for the last 2-3 hours.

Should I, uh, not do that?
It can happen but odds are it will not....
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post #17182 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 07:57 AM
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I just got an LG 65B7 and am super happy with it. It is better than my Panny plasma. I use Bluetooth to connect to my hearing aids. Is there any way to use the tv remote to control the volume? As far as I can tell the volume control on the remote does not control Bluetooth volume. On my Panny, the volume control on the remote did control the Bluetooth volume.
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post #17183 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Gusnyc View Post
Hi!



I have two questions about my new C7 (I had it for a couple of months now).





Second, while doing the research to get this TV, I read somewhere that it is possible to record some TV shows if I add an external hard drive to the set. I haven't seen the option in the menu. Is this possible or was a bad review?



Thank you very much for your answers.



Gus

That record feature is in Europe/Overseas only. In the NA Market we are unable to use this feature.
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post #17184 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by mark_42 View Post
So is Eco Mode and Power Saving mode two different options?

I understand Game mode to be darker. I actually use ISF Bright and custom settings for my PS4 anyways. I game with a darker screen and have for years in a way to avoid IR.

The question is, why when I use HDR Mode for my settings (which has giving me my most acceptable settings) change when I switch inputs for a period of time and then go back to my satellite. Again, there is the initial setting of it, which I get looking good, go to bed at night, get up in the morning and it looks different. I change it so it looks good again. All fine. Then when I play one game for 30 min and go back to the satellite, it has changed how it looks again and reverted back to the original look. Now I know I can change it again, but once it is left off for a few hours it will change back to before I played the game and I will have to adjust it again.
Anybody have any ideas?
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post #17185 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mark_42 View Post
Anybody have any ideas?
Seriously? You reposted the same thing in about 2 hours? Have SOME patience, man!
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post #17186 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jus711 View Post
Returned my 65 B7A due to yellow tint on the left side and just got a 65 E7P as a replacement. It seems to have very little yellow tint so I'm pleased, there is some banding but I'm hoping that time and slides will alleviate it, I had already noticed it getting better during my short time with the B7A. One issue: the first thing I did was upgrade to the new firmware (4.70.36) and now the Dolby Access app that comes pre-installed on our TV's won't load it just swirls a blue circle, I've tried deleting and re-installing but to no avail. It worked fine on the B7A, has anyone else had this issue on the new firmware? I don't "need" the app to work, it was nice to verify and demo Atmos sound and DV but it's no biggie, I just found it curious.
What is your serial number on the E7?

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post #17187 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 09:17 AM
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I LOVE MY C7 65 inch! It's the best TV I've ever owned. I got rid of my HTPC (NUC) behind the panel and got an nVidia Shield and HDR etc. works flawlessly now. I can't explain how satisfied I am right now.

One thing though, and this is the last thing that's bothering me now that I've figured out where I need to have every video setting for best viewing:

Every few nights, when I'm watching something, a popup comes up on the top right that says something to the effect of "network connected..." and it then goes away a few seconds later. It's distracting and I can't figure out where to turn off notifications like that. There's no network problem, because the connection is never lost, the video never stops, and the other 30+ devices and home server never go offline either. Any ideas?

Thanks!
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post #17188 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glader60 View Post
Follow the guide that was at the same place as the files you downloaded TV_Software_Update_Guide_v3.pdf
I'm having trouble updating the LG OLED65C7P firmware via USB thumb drive (as I tried to follow the steps in the pdf file) -- it's probably something simple that I am overlooking. These are the steps I followed:

1. Formatted a 16GB USB drive to FAT32

2. Created a LG_DTV Folder in root directory of Thumb Drive

3. Copied unzipped file: starfish-atsc-secured-m16p-571.drto.m16p-5711401-04.70.36-prodkey_usb_V3_SECURED.epk to the LG_DTV Folder

4. Plugged USB into the side USB 1 Port on OLED65C7P TV

5. When I turned on the LG TV nothing happens -- I even reformatted the Thumb Drive to NTFS and the same results occurred

Any suggestions would be greatly helpful --- thanks.

Dave

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post #17189 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Go for it! I found that it looked about the same as my calibrated HDR settings. I'm also running technicolor in SDR but with gamma set to 2.2 and Edge Enhance off. ( purely optional - Edge Enhancement turns off sharpness )
What do you guys set OLED light to when changing the gamma on SDR Technicolor to 2.2 or do you leave as is?
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post #17190 of 36392 Old 12-14-2017, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
That record feature is in Europe/Overseas only. In the NA Market we are unable to use this feature.
Thank you very much for the clarification.
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