2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 647 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19381 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Welcome to the club!

FYI, Rtings reviewed the C7 in April 2017, and their settings are based on much older firmware. There's been several updates and new added picture modes since then. May I suggest trying out the technicolor Expert picture mode with the below settings. The technicolor Expert picture mode is the most accurate in terms of white balance and color performance. For regular TV watching and Blu-ray ( 1080P ) movies, this is really the best way to go. In know this to be true because I fully calibrated my TV using a different picture mode, and I could barely tell the difference between that and technicolor Expert.

SDR - technicolor Expert

OLED LIGHT: 60 ( This setting is for a medium bright to dim room. If you have a darker environment, I would lower the OLED LIGHT to around 40-50; or whatever is comfortable for you. )
Contrast : 85
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10
Color: 48
Tint: 0

EXPERT CONTROLS
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Edge Enhancer: On
Color Filter: Off
Gamma 2.2
Thank you. I have about an hour on the TV so far. I will definitely try your settings.
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Originally Posted by tekaefixe View Post
Can you please tell m how to check when the panel was made (manufacture date)?

Thank you
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Originally Posted by Rafael_Pinto View Post
Check the serial number of the TV, first number is year and the 2next numbers is month. For instance 710 means October 2017. You have this number on the box, on the back of the tv or on the About TV inside the general menu.

Enviado do meu ONEPLUS A3003 através do Tapatalk
The production date was printed on the back label of the TV and the first 3 characters of the serial number is 712.
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post #19382 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barth2 View Post
You probably should use YCbCr, as that is widely understood to be 16-235 and unambiguous.
Is it unambiguous? I only checked quickly, but it seems like this set applied the "Black High" setting to both RGB and YCbCr encodings. Making it impossible to use the same SDR input settings for both PC-level RGB, and video-level YCbCr.

Last edited by Injector; 01-12-2018 at 07:11 AM. Reason: Added SDR clarification.
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post #19383 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Welcome to the club!

FYI, Rtings reviewed the C7 in April 2017, and their settings are based on much older firmware. There's been several updates and new added picture modes since then. May I suggest trying out the technicolor Expert picture mode with the below settings. The technicolor Expert picture mode is the most accurate in terms of white balance and color performance. For regular TV watching and Blu-ray ( 1080P ) movies, this is really the best way to go. In know this to be true because I fully calibrated my TV using a different picture mode, and I could barely tell the difference between that and technicolor Expert.

SDR - technicolor Expert

OLED LIGHT: 60 ( This setting is for a medium bright to dim room. If you have a darker environment, I would lower the OLED LIGHT to around 40-50; or whatever is comfortable for you. )
Contrast : 85
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10
Color: 48
Tint: 0

EXPERT CONTROLS
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Edge Enhancer: On
Color Filter: Off
Gamma 2.2
I switched from Expert Dark to Technicolor Expert and noticed a marked overall improvement. @sonoftumble care to share your TE settings for HDR? (I'm using Cinema for Dolby Vision)
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post #19384 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Walton View Post
I connected my Mac mini (2009) to my LG B7A and the image from the Mac mini does not fill the screen. It is either too large and extends outside of the screen or is too small and does not fill the screen fully.

Adjusting overscan on the Mac mini to ON results in the desktop getting cut off (too large) and turning overscan OFF results in the desktop not filling the screen fully (too small).

Are there any settings on the LG B7A or Mac mini that can resolve the overscan issue?

Thanks!
Sorry if this has been answered already (I'm a few pages behind in the thread), but I just had the same issue and found a resolution:

Go to Settings->Picture->Aspect Ratio->Just Scan and set to ON (or AUTO).
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post #19385 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robnalex View Post
I switched from Expert Dark to Technicolor Expert and noticed a marked overall improvement. @sonoftumble care to share your TE settings for HDR? (I'm using Cinema for Dolby Vision)
HDR- technicolor Expert
I have stopped trying to "fix" the luminance and saturation errors, and have settled on a simple picture mode: "technicolor Expert" with Dynamic Contrast set to "Low", Edge Enhancement set to "On" and Black Level set to "Low". ( these should be default settings, but check anyway ) I could not tell the difference between that setting and all the things I did with the Cinema (User) picture mode in the previous calibrations. I am really enjoying the PQ I'm getting without fussing with the CMS or White Balance.

DV - Cinema, ( NOT Cinema Home )
It may look a little dim. Simply increase the OLED LIGHT to 60-70. ( See the calibration link in my signature below for more detail on how DV gets calibrated. )

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #19386 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tppytel View Post
The slightly dodgy film motion is my only real issue with my C7, so I'd also love to see BFI as an option. But I'd guess it's going to be tied to the new processor. The 7-series processor probably has more than enough power for such a simple task, but I doubt the 8-series code can just be dropped into the 7-series firmware without modification, and I doubt LG is willing to invest engineering time to make those modifications happen. I'd love to be wrong, though.
BFI Is achieved by setting motion to custom and setting both sliders to 0.
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post #19387 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 09:39 AM
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post #19388 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 09:49 AM
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Is anyone experiencing audio dropout issues with the YouTube app? I have my Vizio 5.1 sound bar connected via SPDIF and ARC. Both exhibit the issue. No other apps or inputs exhibit the issue.

By the way, my sound bar will not turn on when the TV is powered on.
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post #19389 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ToonMasterTim View Post
Is anyone experiencing audio dropout issues with the YouTube app? I have my Vizio 5.1 sound bar connected via SPDIF and ARC. Both exhibit the issue. No other apps or inputs exhibit the issue.

By the way, my sound bar will not turn on when the TV is powered on.
I had dropout issues with SPDIF but ARC works fine so have not tried to troubleshoot the SPDIF issues. You should try a different HDMI cable are that could be the source of the dropout on soundbar not turning on.
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post #19390 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 10:08 AM
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Thanks. I will try a different cable.
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post #19391 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 10:40 AM
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Unhappy

My house has been having power issues and I think it may have damaged my LG B7.

So over the past year on random days, I'll have power issues from the morning until late afternoon. Video games will have strange glitches, AI will stop working, graphics will get WEIRD. It starts to look like a bad acid trip. And this happens in every room with every outlet, with every appliance. PS4, Xbox, PC. Everything. And it doesn't matter which outlet I use or if I have only one breaker active and one appliance plugged in.

I won't even have enough power to play music from my receiver. The Star Wars theme will play in a creepily slow, deflated slog. If I try to turn something on or off, I won't have the instant snappy reaction I usually would. For instance, the CLICK you hear when turning on or off a receiver will be delayed and strange sounding, sometimes power buttons will be entirely unresponsive. Even my Oppo 203 is now barely functional.

I've had multiple electricians come out over the past few months and inspect everything, none of them found anything wrong. I've spent thousands replaced circuit breakers and panels to no avail. One electrician suggested that since my house is at the "end of the line" it gets power last and as a result, only the electric company can fix it. But they would also never admit the issues because it'd be expensive for them to fix and I can't do anything about it.

Anyway... My question is, can you permanently damage your LG OLED with power issues like these? I've only had the TV on once or twice during these happenings, soon as I realized what was going on I shut it off of course.
But now I see banding and macroblocking with every game console or blu-ray player I use no matter what settings I apply. Without changing any TV settings in place since before the problems started happening, it got so bad it looked like really bad JPEG compression so I did a full factory reset and the banding/blocking improved a lot, but it's still present.

I feel like I've tried everything, I've almost given up hope on fixing the electricity issue. But I'd like to enjoy my TV when my electricity does work. Is there anything I can do?

LG OLED65B7P | AVR-X6300H | 7.1.4 - Klipsch RF 7II, RC-64II, RS-62II, RP 260f, 4x CDT-5800-CII, JTR Cap 1400 | OPPO 203 | XB1X | PS4 Pro | PC (i9-7900x, 1080ti)

Last edited by MassiveG; 01-12-2018 at 10:58 AM.
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post #19392 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMacFunkin View Post
BFI Is achieved by setting motion to custom and setting both sliders to 0.
wait, is this true? I thought this was a new feature being added to the 2018 sets? can anyone confirm this?
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post #19393 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 10:54 AM
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Quick question I just got my tv calibrated from someone at magnolia and it looks pretty good (sadly they don't do HDR calibration yet), however the ISF modes (Day and Night) they setup are completely locked when I try to view them, I can't even scroll down, so I can only see brightness, contrast and one other setting. I don't want to change them as it looks pretty good, but I wanted to take a note of what they had everything set at in case the tv does a factory reset or something down the line. Is there a way I can unlock the settings for the ISF mode, or at least some way where I can view what they had everything set at? Before the calibration I was able to view and tweak the settings here without a problem. Thanks!

Scratch this I reach out to the calibrator and you just have to go the picture setting mode and with it highlighted put in the code 8741 on the remote and that will let you view/change the settings.

Last edited by Sextooth; 01-12-2018 at 11:21 AM.
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post #19394 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by WayneDLP View Post
I would swap the HDMI cable you are using for the cable box with one of the others and see if the issue follows the cable. So for example if you swap that cable with the one you use for the Mac Mini and the Mac input starts exhibiting the same issue then it's the cable and if not then at least you know it's not the cable.
Did not think of that. I will give that a try this weekend!
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post #19395 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DaMacFunkin View Post
BFI Is achieved by setting motion to custom and setting both sliders to 0.

By "motion" do you mean what is labeled "TruMotion" in "Picture">"Picture Mode Settings">"TruMotion" - and by "custom" do you mean what is labeled "User" in "TruMotion">"User" (which brings up the "De-Judder" and "De-Blur" sliders) - or am I in the wrong menu area for the two sliders you suggest setting to "0"? Thanks.
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post #19396 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bodosom View Post
Usually HDMI handshake issues like this can be resolved with delays or reordering the power-up sequence. I'd unplug the other devices, diable SIMPLINK and power up the cable box and the TV in different orders with varying delays. If there's HDMI-CEC in the cable box turn that off too. If it works at all you should be able to find a order and delay that starts reliably. Then put the other gear back and make sure the issue doesn't return. My C7 does seem to spend more time in handshake than any other display I've had.
I have done experimentation with the Harmony remote with both order and delay, but I did not have SIMPLINK disabled at the time. I have since disabled it, but should go back to the Harmony setup and try again. With SIMPLINK enabled or disabled I have not seen a difference. This is the LG wording for HDMI-CEC, correct? In theory this should be enabled to make it work properly? Regardless, it would be nice to be able to use the Xfinity X1 remote and I do not think that I have the ability to customize anything there. I also do not see that there is a setting to adjust any HDMI functionality on the Xfinity Comcast box other than the resolution output. Bummer.
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post #19397 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Astiehm View Post
I have a 65" C7. I have the TV tied back to a Denon 4300X via HDMI which in turn has different sources attached to it (Comcast Xfinity box, Apple TV 4K and a Mac Mini all connected via HDMI ). For some reason, upon start up with just the Xfinity box, the C7 does not recognize the input (no signal). I have to click to another input and then back to Cable/Sat input and it immediately connects. All the other inputs fire up right away if I select those, it is just the TV signal (the one most used). It does not matter which remote I use (Harmony, Xfinity X1, etc.) the result is the same. I think I have gone through all the settings in the TV and receiver to make sure that it works properly. Any hints? The kicker is that every once in a while it works.
Can you leave your X1 box to always on? Does it still have the same issue if the X1 box is constantly on?
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post #19398 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Welcome to the club!

FYI, Rtings reviewed the C7 in April 2017, and their settings are based on much older firmware. There's been several updates and new added picture modes since then. May I suggest trying out the technicolor Expert picture mode with the below settings. The technicolor Expert picture mode is the most accurate in terms of white balance and color performance. For regular TV watching and Blu-ray ( 1080P ) movies, this is really the best way to go. In know this to be true because I fully calibrated my TV using a different picture mode, and I could barely tell the difference between that and technicolor Expert.

SDR - technicolor Expert

OLED LIGHT: 60 ( This setting is for a medium bright to dim room. If you have a darker environment, I would lower the OLED LIGHT to around 40-50; or whatever is comfortable for you. )
Contrast : 85
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10
Color: 48
Tint: 0

EXPERT CONTROLS
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Edge Enhancer: On
Color Filter: Off
Gamma 2.2
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
HDR- technicolor Expert
I have stopped trying to "fix" the luminance and saturation errors, and have settled on a simple picture mode: "technicolor Expert" with Dynamic Contrast set to "Low", Edge Enhancement set to "On" and Black Level set to "Low". ( these should be default settings, but check anyway ) I could not tell the difference between that setting and all the things I did with the Cinema (User) picture mode in the previous calibrations. I am really enjoying the PQ I'm getting without fussing with the CMS or White Balance.

DV - Cinema, ( NOT Cinema Home )
It may look a little dim. Simply increase the OLED LIGHT to 60-70. ( See the calibration link in my signature below for more detail on how DV gets calibrated. )
any reason LG could not have added both these Technicolor updates to 2016 models?
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post #19399 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 11:52 AM
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YouTube App having issue with built in screen saver.

My Youtube app on the B7 OLED is starting to act funny. The Youtube App was working fine until today. Now when I watch anything for about 1min the Fireworks Screensaver kicks in, like it doesn't know that there is something playing. It does not happen on the Netflix App.

Anyone had this problem? Also is there a easy way to cold reboot the TV? Trying to give instructions to the wife on how to do that, but dont want her to have to find and uplug the TV.

Thanks
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post #19400 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Welcome to the club!

FYI, Rtings reviewed the C7 in April 2017, and their settings are based on much older firmware. There's been several updates and new added picture modes since then. May I suggest trying out the technicolor Expert picture mode with the below settings. The technicolor Expert picture mode is the most accurate in terms of white balance and color performance. For regular TV watching and Blu-ray ( 1080P ) movies, this is really the best way to go. In know this to be true because I fully calibrated my TV using a different picture mode, and I could barely tell the difference between that and technicolor Expert.

SDR - technicolor Expert

OLED LIGHT: 60 ( This setting is for a medium bright to dim room. If you have a darker environment, I would lower the OLED LIGHT to around 40-50; or whatever is comfortable for you. )
Contrast : 85
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10
Color: 48
Tint: 0

EXPERT CONTROLS
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Edge Enhancer: On
Color Filter: Off
Gamma 2.2
when you say standard you mean 1080P content as well right?

LG OLED B7A 65"
Philips BDP7501 UHD Blu Ray player
Apple TV4
Onkyo TX-SR606
Harmony Elite
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post #19401 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinm0 View Post
Sorry if this has been answered already (I'm a few pages behind in the thread), but I just had the same issue and found a resolution:

Go to Settings->Picture->Aspect Ratio->Just Scan and set to ON (or AUTO).
Thanks! This worked perfectly.
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post #19402 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MassiveG View Post
My house has been having power issues and I think it may have damaged my LG B7.

So over the past year on random days, I'll have power issues from the morning until late afternoon. Video games will have strange glitches, AI will stop working, graphics will get WEIRD. It starts to look like a bad acid trip. And this happens in every room with every outlet, with every appliance. PS4, Xbox, PC. Everything. And it doesn't matter which outlet I use or if I have only one breaker active and one appliance plugged in.

I won't even have enough power to play music from my receiver. The Star Wars theme will play in a creepily slow, deflated slog. If I try to turn something on or off, I won't have the instant snappy reaction I usually would. For instance, the CLICK you hear when turning on or off a receiver will be delayed and strange sounding, sometimes power buttons will be entirely unresponsive. Even my Oppo 203 is now barely functional.

I've had multiple electricians come out over the past few months and inspect everything, none of them found anything wrong. I've spent thousands replaced circuit breakers and panels to no avail. One electrician suggested that since my house is at the "end of the line" it gets power last and as a result, only the electric company can fix it. But they would also never admit the issues because it'd be expensive for them to fix and I can't do anything about it.

Anyway... My question is, can you permanently damage your LG OLED with power issues like these? I've only had the TV on once or twice during these happenings, soon as I realized what was going on I shut it off of course.
But now I see banding and macroblocking with every game console or blu-ray player I use no matter what settings I apply. Without changing any TV settings in place since before the problems started happening, it got so bad it looked like really bad JPEG compression so I did a full factory reset and the banding/blocking improved a lot, but it's still present.

I feel like I've tried everything, I've almost given up hope on fixing the electricity issue. But I'd like to enjoy my TV when my electricity does work. Is there anything I can do?
I suggest getting a good UPS, something like the APC SmartUPS 1500 (I use one of those for all my stuff) which can handle brownouts and frequency issues and surges and such. They are bit pricey, but not compared to the equipment you would be connecting to it.
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post #19403 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarguy316 View Post
any reason LG could not have added both these Technicolor updates to 2016 models?
Well for one, I don't think Technicolor ever had any 2016 models to tweak and copy settings from, so the Technicolor picture mode does not have anything to exist from on the 2016 models.

And the 2016 has less processing power and might not be able to handle the Technicolor Advanced HDR.

Or maybe since they never said they would offer it on the 2016 (unlike the 2017), they might not see the point in spending time on it.

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post #19404 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveG View Post
My house has been having power issues and I think it may have damaged my LG B7.

So over the past year on random days, I'll have power issues from the morning until late afternoon. Video games will have strange glitches, AI will stop working, graphics will get WEIRD. It starts to look like a bad acid trip. And this happens in every room with every outlet, with every appliance. PS4, Xbox, PC. Everything. And it doesn't matter which outlet I use or if I have only one breaker active and one appliance plugged in.

I won't even have enough power to play music from my receiver. The Star Wars theme will play in a creepily slow, deflated slog. If I try to turn something on or off, I won't have the instant snappy reaction I usually would. For instance, the CLICK you hear when turning on or off a receiver will be delayed and strange sounding, sometimes power buttons will be entirely unresponsive. Even my Oppo 203 is now barely functional.

I've had multiple electricians come out over the past few months and inspect everything, none of them found anything wrong. I've spent thousands replaced circuit breakers and panels to no avail. One electrician suggested that since my house is at the "end of the line" it gets power last and as a result, only the electric company can fix it. But they would also never admit the issues because it'd be expensive for them to fix and I can't do anything about it.

Anyway... My question is, can you permanently damage your LG OLED with power issues like these? I've only had the TV on once or twice during these happenings, soon as I realized what was going on I shut it off of course.
But now I see banding and macroblocking with every game console or blu-ray player I use no matter what settings I apply. Without changing any TV settings in place since before the problems started happening, it got so bad it looked like really bad JPEG compression so I did a full factory reset and the banding/blocking improved a lot, but it's still present.

I feel like I've tried everything, I've almost given up hope on fixing the electricity issue. But I'd like to enjoy my TV when my electricity does work. Is there anything I can do?
Definitely get your utility to check the feed to the house. Years ago I had a problem with the power supply to my home, nothing was getting full 120v power. Typical power feed to a home consists of three wires (2 hot phases and a bare neutral wire). In my case the neutral wire had been rubbing on a tree branch and was severely degraded. The local utility replaced the feeder (no cost since it was on their side of my meter). All good since then.
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post #19405 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 01:29 PM
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Would it make more sense to purchase a B7A with the SJ9 sound bar vs getting the C7?
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post #19406 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 02:32 PM
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I'm running into a weird issue...likely user error I'm guessing I have some settings wrong. I'm running my Xbox One X through a Denon 930H to my 65" B7 via HDMI 2. If I launch Amazon Video from the LG's "home" app menu and play Bosch Season 2, it plays Dolby Vision. My TV then pushes the sound to my receiver via HDMI.

If launch Amazon Prime from within Xbox One X, Amazon Prime and play Bosch Season 2, it plays HDR.

I notice this because of the Dolby Vision symbol that shows initially upon playing the video or the HDR symbol.

I have HDMI Ultra Deep Color enabled for HDMI2. My video settings under 4K TV Details on xbox display settings EVERYTHING is compatible and should work. On my Denon I have 4K Signal Format set to Enhanced. The only HDMI cord's I'm using are Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, HDR. I might try to the Denon forum if nobody has any ideas

Current TV's: LG OLED B7 65" (theater room), Samsung F8000 60" (main room), Samsung A850 52" (play room)
Theater Room Details: Denon 930H, Polk Audio Monitor II 70's, Polk Audio Monitor II CS2, Polk Audio II Monitor 30's, Polk Audio II 40's, Bic F12
Home Audio: 3 Denon Heos 5's (and accumulating)
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post #19407 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post
I'm running into a weird issue...likely user error I'm guessing I have some settings wrong. I'm running my Xbox One X through a Denon 930H to my 65" B7 via HDMI 2. If I launch Amazon Video from the LG's "home" app menu and play Bosch Season 2, it plays Dolby Vision. My TV then pushes the sound to my receiver via HDMI.

If launch Amazon Prime from within Xbox One X, Amazon Prime and play Bosch Season 2, it plays HDR.

I notice this because of the Dolby Vision symbol that shows initially upon playing the video or the HDR symbol.

I have HDMI Ultra Deep Color enabled for HDMI2. My video settings under 4K TV Details on xbox display settings EVERYTHING is compatible and should work. On my Denon I have 4K Signal Format set to Enhanced. The only HDMI cord's I'm using are Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, HDR. I might try to the Denon forum if nobody has any ideas
Xbox One X supports HDR10 (hence, the HDR badge), but not Dolby Vision. Your setup is acting as intended.
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post #19408 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ThierryXN View Post
Xbox One X supports HDR10 (hence, the HDR badge), but not Dolby Vision. Your setup is acting as intended.
Haha see user error! I made an assumption on Xbox’s part!
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post #19409 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post

SDR - technicolor Expert

OLED LIGHT: 60 ( This setting is for a medium bright to dim room. If you have a darker environment, I would lower the OLED LIGHT to around 40-50; or whatever is comfortable for you. )
Contrast : 85
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10
Color: 48
Tint: 0

EXPERT CONTROLS
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Edge Enhancer: On
Color Filter: Off
Gamma 2.2
@sonoftumble - How did you decide on 48 for color? I thought 50 was supposed to be right on the money.
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post #19410 of 36889 Old 01-12-2018, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DaMacFunkin View Post
BFI Is achieved by setting motion to custom and setting both sliders to 0.

Quote:
Originally Posted by superchink View Post
wait, is this true? I thought this was a new feature being added to the 2018 sets? can anyone confirm this?
This ain't true
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