I have this same UPS. Everything goes through it except TV and receiver are in surge only (no backup). Do you have everything into backup? I would never have considered plugging our old plasma (energy hog) into a backup outlet, but these TVs no doubt use much less juice. Under our current setup, modem, switch, TiVo, Apple TV, and Roku are on backup. If we have a short power outage, all TiVo recordings and data stream keeps going.

I've no idea why people want BFI. The flickering is insane.

I didn't say "standard" but I think you are referring to SDR ( Standard Dynamic Range ) which would include any content; i.e. 480P/720P/1080i/1080P/4K that does not contain an HDR, HLG, or DV signal. The dynamic ranges that the TV supports are resolution independent.

I notice that in The Grand Tour 4K HDR on Amazon Prime Video. Especially in the studio shots. There's absolutely a subtle brightness difference between shots. You can see it brighten and dim.

When I was flipping back and forth between my super calibrated ISF Dark settings, and technicolor Expert, IMO the colors looked a bit too saturated @ 50 and looked more accurate ( especially the flesh tones ) with color set at 48.

Absolutely, if it saves you money and you are happy with the minor cosmetic differences in the trim annd base.

oops, yeah...thanks my bad

My SmartUPS 1500 has 8 powered outlets and 0 surge only. I have never seen one that did anything else unless you go down toe a BackUPS 1500 which is a much much lesser model (not sine wave output, no brownout protection, etc). Mine is the APC SUA1500 from a few years ago. Big heavy brick.

I personally like Cyberpower CP1500AVRLCD. I have these and the predecessor model all over my home. 2 drive my home theater, 1 for my AVR the other for the TV, BD, Shield, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP...cyberpower+ups


Then for my subs I put a line conditioner on each

https://www.amazon.com/APC-LE1200-Au...ne+conditioner

Additionally my electrical panel has a whole house surge suppressor.

Mine is the "much lesser" BackUPS Pro 1500.

The ability to have the UPS handle a low (or worse yet high) voltage by going through the inverter and putting out the correct voltage is rather handy (and likely a solution to this power problem).

Surprised more people do not make this choice.....

Both units have automatic voltage regulation. Besides capacity and rated surge protection, the big difference I see is pure sine wave output, which is cleaner than simulated sine wave. That having been said, a bad surge or lightning strike could easily fry both units and possibly more.

Sure if you don't mind the cosmetic difference. Seems it would make sense if planning almost any sort of external sound system.

I used to have several of the APC units but have since switched over to all Cyperpower units. My electronic equipment seems to like their output better than the APC’s.

I didn't think the backups had that, but apparently these days they do. I guess the other difference is all ports being powered on the smartups then other than the pure sine wave output (I have some computer equipment that requires proper sine wave input so I only have the smartups around, although I bought my last one reconditioned which was pretty cheap).

If you're using a soundbar or AV system, save the money and just get the B7. The more expensive models only make sense if you will rely on the TV speakers or you want a 77" panel.

Options are good. Maybe it's not a solution that always works, but perhaps it could improve particular types of content.

I've never played around with BFI - the C7 is the first decent AV setup I've ever owned. But my naive, totally unresearched thinking would be that a 120Hz display would play film-rate content with BFI as AAAAXBBBBXCCCCX... where X indicates a black frame. Still basically doing 24x5=120, but using one of those 5 frames as a black frame. That doesn't seem like it should create dramatic flickering or brightness drops. But I don't know anything. Is that the way current implementations work?

My memory stinks, but I remember using the Samsung KS8000 BFI, and it flickered noticeably during 24p playback.

Exactly what I did, just 1 week ago. No regrets. Super happy.

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Thanks for the insight everyone. Hopefully I’ll get the store credit in the mail this week. Is there anything I should look for in the TV before the exchange period ends?
Did you get the SJ9 or something else?

Have the .38 update for Europe surfaced anywhere yet?

Really surprised this announcement from Dolby regarding the gray bars in playback of UHD titles and streaming through external devices hasn’t gotten much chatter. Basically Dolby admitted they found an issue, and has passed on the info to LG, but now we wait for LG to incorporate the fix and push out a new firmware update.

Wonder how long it will take for LG to get it out?

https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnarc.../#df72e602906b

B to C is $100. SJ9 is $900 and C sound is nowhere near that of a SJ9. Not sure how that is an either/or choice, you should definitely go B & SJ9. Hell if you prefer the black bezel, a C & SJ9 would be the right choice.

Soundbars are nice but after having what some call “the best” Sony HT-ST5000 for a month, I just can’t get over how hollow they and my previous soundbar sound compared to an amp and just a pair of towers which I just set up today. Quality stereo sounds infinitely better than 7.1.2 “surround sound”. If you can fit real speakers and an AVR go that route instead.

The B or C is definitely the right choice though.


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It did get some chatter, 2 days ago when that article was posted

For me this was the most interesting info panel in LG's booth at CES. Good news! The 2017's will get a FW update that will support these new HDR formats.

Attached photo

^^^at least we won't be forgotten Lol! Anxious to see what advanced Technicolor hdr brings.

Anyone using Apple tv and Denon X7200WA here? Don't remember seeing X7200WA supports DV. How do you hook up Apple tv, X7200WA and B7/C7?


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I do the same, with different equipment. All networking and computers, including DVRs, are on full backup; all displays are on surge protection. But in the case of the OP with his continuous power dips and surges, perhaps he should have his display on the full UPS.

So I have the B7, and the built in Amazon app seems to be finicky. It will start playing stuff on Amazon in Hd, then after a few minutes the picture will get a bit blurry, especially on faces. Then it will go back to Hd and then back and forth for the duration of the show. I don't think it's an internet bandwidth connection as I pay for 60 MBs per second. Anyone have an idea on why the HD looks a little fuzzy on the Amazon app?

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