2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 659 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19741 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:08 PM
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^Turn it off. It's just to appease regulations.

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post #19742 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
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Originally Posted by carlson275 View Post
Thats what concerns me. Is oled better pic quality then my vizio p? I'm sure everyone will say yes, but ignorance is bliss and I haven't really seen oled yet aside from stores, so for 75" I'm very happy with pic quality of my current tv.

Literally only reason I want to consider switching is DSE/banding. It's a eye sore to us. We're sensitive to it. It's only thing we want to upgrade from. So if oled won't remove it, or doesn't reduce it significantly, then it's not worth both the downgrade in size and hassle of buying, transporting, and refunding two tvs
I own 65LGC7, Vizio P65-E1 and a 55X900E and I will tell you LG over P65 all day long unless you are in a bright room, then maybe the P65 or X900E. Once you get passed banding (run the slides) and avoid any possible yellow tint the panel uniformity is very good. I had my panel replaced due to yellow tint and both panels were excellent uniformity. My P65 was returned and replaced due to flashing white line issues and both panels had dark corners, nothing obvious in content unless you had full white screen. Either I am not sensitive to DSE or neither P65 had it bad enough for me to notice or care.
Are there really slides that help banding? I have two noticeable bands but I've only had the tv for a few days. I'd like to minimize them!
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post #19743 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:34 PM
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Are there really slides that help banding? I have two noticeable bands but I've only had the tv for a few days. I'd like to minimize them!
Search this forum, I posted updated slides and the process a while back, they may have moved it to the top or a sticky, there are slides that help and a process to follow.

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post #19744 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:37 PM
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...it has almost totally ruined going to the movies. The much bigger (theater) screen is certainly nice...
Free solution regarding screen size: move your chair closer. :-)
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post #19745 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:39 PM
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Am I crazy if I say that I like HDR more than DV? I’d like to compare Netflix for example, but to do that I need to turn off DV in the TV
I don't think you can "turn off" DV if it's present in the incoming signal. If you can, please advise how to do it.
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post #19746 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:43 PM
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Are there really slides that help banding? I have two noticeable bands but I've only had the tv for a few days. I'd like to minimize them!
Banding can be reduced via calibration. Prior to calibrating, when I put up the gradient test patterns, there were a few areas of gray that weren't uniform, disrupting the gradient. After a 20pt white balance, the same test pattern is almost perfect. You have to do this for SDR, HDR10, and Dolby Vision of course, to get it right in all three, and calibration isn't simple or cheap whether it's DIY or with an ISF pro.

The other factor is the source material, especially streaming or Cable/Sat programming. They use heavy compression that results in banding, posterization, and pixellation that are part of the encoding. That's not the TV. Even Blu-rays and UHD Blu-rays can have this problem, so it's not always the TV.

As far as slides go, personally I just watch normal stuff and break in the TV that way.

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post #19747 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:49 PM
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Hi,

This wireless on my LG C7 is exact the same, if I turn TV off and on the wireless speeds are like 1MBPS - only way to fix it was change the wlreless channel on router or reboot it but the problem would happen again, so I always have a cable now.
Hi Jordan,

Thanks for the information. Man, this problem is unacceptable for a TV of this price.

Another thing that I forgot to mention. Often, when I would delete and reinstall the Amazon app, the TV would take forever just to download it. This is when I would completely reset the TV to factory settings and reload everything. After that, the Amazon app would download in about 5 seconds.

I wonder if this is happening only on the Costco versions?

Anyway, I'll give it a few more weeks (it has been working flawlessly for the last few days) and if no improvement, I'm going to have Costco switch it out.

Again, thanks for the info.
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post #19748 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:51 PM
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"I wonder if this is happening only on the Costco versions?"

Disregard. I see that you mentioned it was happening on your C7.
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post #19749 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 12:57 PM
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After so many days of research and so many sleepless nights filled with doubt which TV is the perfect one, I have finally pulled the trigger and bought myself a B7 despite my terrible fear of the potential burn ins.

I would like to ask you folks about the handling. Is there anything special I have to do after the very first powering of this baby? Should I change the picture settings or leave them as they are out of the box? I have heard about the break-in period and I am curious if that really is a thing.

Thanks for any tips!

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Congratulations! I just got mine yesterday and Ive never been so impressed with a TV until now. Ive owned plasma TV's and OLED devices. I would say keep the screen a little dimmer than normal, avoid HDR, maybe even use the dark setting or user settings with energy savings on for the first couple of hundred hours. I dont know if this will make a difference, but Ive never got burn in on any of my devices.
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post #19750 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 01:03 PM
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After so many days of research and so many sleepless nights filled with doubt which TV is the perfect one, I have finally pulled the trigger and bought myself a B7 despite my terrible fear of the potential burn ins.
You basically bought the best TV made....You do not leave still images up I bet you will be fine.....
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post #19751 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 01:09 PM
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Free solution regarding screen size: move your chair closer. :-)
Not so quick ! It screws up the audio .
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post #19752 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 01:19 PM
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Am I crazy if I say that I like HDR more than DV? I’d like to compare Netflix for example, but to do that I need to turn off DV in the TV
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I don't think you can "turn off" DV if it's present in the incoming signal. If you can, please advise how to do it.

I'm not a big fan of DV either. If you get an AppleTV 4K, you can turn DV off and have everything HDR or SDR or also DV ( if you so desire ).
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post #19753 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 01:19 PM
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I don't think you can "turn off" DV if it's present in the incoming signal. If you can, please advise how to do it.


Not in the LG, but in the Apple TV is easy
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post #19754 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 02:16 PM
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Congratulations! I just got mine yesterday and Ive never been so impressed with a TV until now. Ive owned plasma TV's and OLED devices. I would say keep the screen a little dimmer than normal, avoid HDR, maybe even use the dark setting or user settings with energy savings on for the first couple of hundred hours. I dont know if this will make a difference, but Ive never got burn in on any of my devices.
Thanks. This kinda blows however, since I am about to game on that thing - HDR will most likely be used

I have also owned 5 plasmas, all bought in 2012 I believe (4x Samsung PS43D450 and 1x Samsung PS50C7000). I had really no idea about the burn ins and IRs at that time and my whole family have used these just as a typical TVs. The only one that ended up with burn in is the PS50C7000. It has one channel logo burned in after so many years. The funny thing is, that particular channel was being played on this TV for 5-10 hours a day everyday for so many years. The reason I am so afraid of BIs in LG is that there are so many reports of that happening after so little time. Looks like their durability is nothing close to Samsung's plasmas...

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You basically bought the best TV made....You do not leave still images up I bet you will be fine.....
I will mostly game on my PS4 PRO (50%). The other 50% is netflix + comedy central + e! entertainment for my fiance. Hope this will be fine as CC and E! both have white logos.
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post #19755 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by macieqq View Post
Thanks. This kinda blows however, since I am about to game on that thing - HDR will most likely be used



I have also owned 5 plasmas, all bought in 2012 I believe (4x Samsung PS43D450 and 1x Samsung PS50C7000). I had really no idea about the burn ins and IRs at that time and my whole family have used these just as a typical TVs. The only one that ended up with burn in is the PS50C7000. It has one channel logo burned in after so many years. The funny thing is, that particular channel was being played on this TV for 5-10 hours a day everyday for so many years. The reason I am so afraid of BIs in LG is that there are so many reports of that happening after so little time. Looks like their durability is nothing close to Samsung's plasmas...







I will mostly game on my PS4 PRO (50%). The other 50% is netflix + comedy central + e! entertainment for my fiance. Hope this will be fine as CC and E! both have white logos.


“So many”? Remember the posts online are usually “bad”. Happy owners tend to be quiet owners. Of course if you specifically look for an issue you’ll find “lots” of people posting on it. You have to take everything with a grain of salt and understand that those who post online may NOT represent the overall ownership.
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post #19756 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 03:34 PM
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You basically bought the best TV made....You do not leave still images up I bet you will be fine.....
and if you don't have major banding going on.

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post #19757 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 03:45 PM
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I own 65LGC7, Vizio P65-E1 and a 55X900E and I will tell you LG over P65 all day long unless you are in a bright room, then maybe the P65 or X900E. Once you get passed banding (run the slides) and avoid any possible yellow tint the panel uniformity is very good. I had my panel replaced due to yellow tint and both panels were excellent uniformity. My P65 was returned and replaced due to flashing white line issues and both panels had dark corners, nothing obvious in content unless you had full white screen. Either I am not sensitive to DSE or neither P65 had it bad enough for me to notice or care.

I an sensitive to elevated blacks or non-existent blacks and the LB solves that. The Vizio has excellent overall black performance compared to the Sony. In bright rooms the Sony is king as this baby gets bright, almost too bright for me after years of plasmas and now the LG.

No TV is perfect, they all have trade-offs. You have to determine which ones you are sensitive too or see and which ones you can't.
What do you mean running slides? Is that a oled thing/fix?

While my wife and I appreciate excellent picture quality due to black levels, contrast, brightness, color, etc etc etc (she's a photographer so she really appreciates UHD) ..... Or one issue is banding/dse. On another forum, sounds like oled is just as bad in that regard. I understand the oled looks better side by side on a non-banding scene compared to the p75.... But we already own the 75 and enjoy the size. Only reason for switching is banding.

And sounds like we wouldn't be escaping the issue?
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post #19758 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 03:56 PM
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^^^Some folks on here run color slides to break in the set, it goes back to the plasma days. Regardless the set will need to break in, as out if the box their will be black crush and uniformity might not be that great...simply put the panel needs to settle. I didn't run any slides on mine, but did watch a ton of HBO, or Netflix series the first 100 hours.
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post #19759 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
The Display does not know where the "jailbars" are located.


In theory, and app could take a picture and an analysis and correction could take place, but there is not much chance of that happening for existing displays.


- Rich
I think I remember reading that the Panasonic OLED could fix the jailbars. I might be misremembering, but I thought you could mark where they are and it would run a compensation cycle based on where you marked them.
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post #19760 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 04:32 PM
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^^^Some folks on here run color slides to break in the set, it goes back to the plasma days. Regardless the set will need to break in, as out if the box their will be black crush and uniformity might not be that great...simply put the panel needs to settle. I didn't run any slides on mine, but did watch a ton of HBO, or Netflix series the first 100 hours.
Didn't plasma owners break-in primarily to make an upcoming calibration more effective? I don't think OLEDs really benefit the same way. Honestly, I'm not sure anyone ever proved that break-in slides did anything for plasma, either.

It's the TV equivalent of blowing on your NES cartridge (it probably doesn't do anything).

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post #19761 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 04:44 PM
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^^^as proven by many professional calibrotors on here, breaking in the set does help especially when brand new, and yes the oleds need to be broken in at first for the reasons stated in my previous post...sorry but don't agree with your view. Dusting off a Nintendo cartridge is a poor analogy btw...
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post #19762 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 04:50 PM
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I have a Roku Ultra 2017 model (4660). The newer 4K models have an option for "Auto-adjust display refresh rate" which is supposed to display content in its native resolution. I tried this with the Roku Hulu app and my OLED65B7A last night and it was completely unwatchable, like the signal was undecipherable. I was watching SNL, which is 30 fps. The TV couldn't display it sometimes, or only an intermittent frame. I tried both 4:2:0 and 4:2:2 chroma options for HDR subsampling in the Roku. Locking the Roku to 60 Hz is stable and works fine.

With Real Cinema enabled, is there any need to bother with this option, or can the TV perform reverse pulldown as needed for different framerates? I have TruMotion disabled per settings recommendations by sonoftumble and jbebel (not enabled and set to 0/0).

Does anyone know how the internal TV apps handle different display rates? My guess is they're locked to 60 Hz.

My preference is to use the Roku to have a one-stop shop for streaming and because I like the Roku remote more than the TV remote.
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post #19763 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 05:03 PM
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Didn't plasma owners break-in primarily to make an upcoming calibration more effective? I don't think OLEDs really benefit the same way. Honestly, I'm not sure anyone ever proved that break-in slides did anything for plasma, either.

It's the TV equivalent of blowing on your NES cartridge (it probably doesn't do anything).
Definitely helps with the OLED as well as the plasma. There's a reason most calibration can't be done until there are 200 hours on the set.

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post #19764 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 05:03 PM
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^^^exactly.
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post #19765 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 05:12 PM
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Didn't plasma owners break-in primarily to make an upcoming calibration more effective? ...Honestly, I'm not sure anyone ever proved that break-in slides did anything for plasma, either.
Plasma (meaning recent vintage) displays have non-uniform early aging. Running slides is intended to accelerate movement into a more linear region. Slides of primary colors effectively increase drive by decreasing ABL which speeds the process. You can attempt a uniform early aging or you can recalibrate periodically for the first few hundred hours.

I don't know enough about OLED tech to comment.

I might type 2K for 1080p.
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post #19766 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 05:28 PM
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guys: do any of you use wls headphones for late night movie watching
(so as to not disturb those sleeping)?
i'm seeking a good pair for my B7...bang and olufsen or hear beats makes a nice $$ model, too.

i guess the wls model would have to be a different type to take over the tv sound,
not the regular wls cans that are out there? or am i wrong?

any direction/choices offered is appreciated.
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post #19767 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 05:38 PM
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Plasma (meaning recent vintage) displays have non-uniform early aging. Running slides is intended to accelerate movement into a more linear region. Slides of primary colors effective increase drive by decreasing ABL which speeds the process. You can attempt a uniform early aging or you can recalibrate periodically for the first few hundred hours.

I don't know enough about OLED tech to comment.
Agreed. I've yet to see any indication that this is true with OLED, other than others applying their personal intuition.

I know that OLED *drifts* like crazy, but I don't think this ever subsides.

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post #19768 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 05:43 PM
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My OLED65C7P arrived Monday morning (surprising that it came so quickly from a great vendor and AVS Industry Insider - who spent a lot of time with me before my purchase was completed). Compared to my 2016 OLED55B6P this new set is a marvel. The PQ is pretty much unbelievable OOTB. I could tell there was more brightness to the OLED panel in the 2017 C7P than my previous set.

Special thanks to jbebel for his spreadsheet, and information he provided me via PM (during work he accomplished with D-Nice as he accomplished jbebel's calibration). Very helpful!

jbebel's spreadsheet is located here for those who haven't seen it or read his information. This explanation was very well done.
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post #19769 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 05:59 PM
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I have a Roku Ultra 2017 model (4660). The newer 4K models have an option for "Auto-adjust display refresh rate" which is supposed to display content in its native resolution. I tried this with the Roku Hulu app and my OLED65B7A last night and it was completely unwatchable, like the signal was undecipherable. I was watching SNL, which is 30 fps. The TV couldn't display it sometimes, or only an intermittent frame. I tried both 4:2:0 and 4:2:2 chroma options for HDR subsampling in the Roku. Locking the Roku to 60 Hz is stable and works fine.

With Real Cinema enabled, is there any need to bother with this option, or can the TV perform reverse pulldown as needed for different framerates? I have TruMotion disabled per settings recommendations by sonoftumble and jbebel (not enabled and set to 0/0).

Does anyone know how the internal TV apps handle different display rates? My guess is they're locked to 60 Hz.

My preference is to use the Roku to have a one-stop shop for streaming and because I like the Roku remote more than the TV remote.
May I also recommend that you get an AppleTV 4K and return the Roku, or give it to a family member. That way, you will be too busy watching to have time for posting!

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
VIZIO M70-D3 Calibration SDR/HDR FW 3.4.8.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post55595700
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post #19770 of 37288 Old 01-17-2018, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
May I also recommend that you get an AppleTV 4K and return the Roku, or give it to a family member. That way, you will be too busy watching to have time for posting!
I second the ATV 4k. I hate apple but this device is awesome as all hell

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