2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 666 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19951 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiannay View Post
Thanks for your comments, Mack. I will try turning De-Blur off completely and see how that works.

At the end of the day, technology is headed in this direction so my wife may just need to get used to this effect. There’s hope!




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I don’t think technology is heading in any particular direction. Heck, it’s heading in a million different directions lately! In any case, I’m a frame-rate nut and can spot soap-opera effect a mile away. I have TruMotion set to User 0/0 and it plays a very smooth 24p image without any visible processing/smoothing. That’s literally the first thing I disable when switching picture modes the first time. It has to be off or the TV goes in the trash!
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post #19952 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rsonnens View Post
As of now HDR10+ is an Amazon and Samsung only format. While it might be “open” no one else supports it and no studios have signed up for it.

HDR10+ should just die. It offers nothing not supported by other standards and content providers can’t master well in all possible formats so we should stick to as few as possible—unless of course something new has a tangible technological breakthrough.


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HDR10+ is a free open standard and not closed and proprietary like DV.

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post #19953 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 05:04 PM
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What are the disadvantages of using gamma 2.2 in a very dark room?

I say this because, with gamma 2.2 and the right brightness the TV continues to produce perfect blacks, so, infinite contrast, normly the 2.4 gamma was used to give a contrast push to the tvs, is this still necessary?

Also, if I remember correctly, the panasonic and kuros plasmas functioned exclusively with a very flat gamma 2.2, since they produced a high contrast natively.
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post #19954 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mark_42 View Post
By any chance did you have the B7A? As from my understanding the B7P and C7P are the same price everywhere and really there is no difference between the two.
Nope. All I have seen here is the B7A and the C7P.

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post #19955 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by aftontrix2 View Post
The TV does not turn on the USB converter. It is always on. The LED light strip remote turns the lights on and off. I just thought of something. I bet you have the all white Luminoodle with no remote. I have the one with a remote and various color options.
mine is the colored one with different brightness levels and a remote

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post #19956 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:13 PM
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Anyone know if there is a way to hookup the TV to powered monitors? It only seems to have HDMI ARC and optical out. My speakers take XLR or 1/4". :/ It would be nice rather than having to use the built-in speakers when watching content through the built-in apps.
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post #19957 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TridenT_Boy3555 View Post
Anyone know if there is a way to hookup the TV to powered monitors?
Not directly, but optical-to-RCA converters are inexpensive. And then you can run RCA-to-1/4" cables from there. But I don't think you'll get any volume control that way. I'm also not certain the TV will downmix 5.1 audio to stereo for you. Most converters I saw assume a stereo optical input.
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post #19958 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tppytel View Post
Not directly, but optical-to-RCA converters are inexpensive. And then you can run RCA-to-1/4" cables from there. But I don't think you'll get any volume control that way. I'm also not certain the TV will downmix 5.1 audio to stereo for you. Most converters I saw assume a stereo optical input.
Will RCA to 1/4" work though since 1/4" TRS is going to be grounded? :/

I keep wanting this to happen but I feel like I should give up on my damn speakers after all these years and just try to sell them. They might be more hassle than they've been worth. (Yamaha HS80M and HS10W sub)
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post #19959 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TridenT_Boy3555 View Post
Will RCA to 1/4" work though since 1/4" TRS is going to be grounded?
That probably depends on what kind of interference is present in your particular setup. I have a pair of JBL 305 monitors connected to my PC via a Schitt Sys through RCA-to-1/4" cables. I don't have any problems with that at all - no buzzing or anything. There's probably some way to get an XLR connection but I'd bet it would require a lot more expensive gear.
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post #19960 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
I will get the unlucky panel. It's my destiny.
Take the Dale Carnegie course How to Stop Worrying and Start Living.

I had two Kuro Plasmas for 8 years. Don't watch news for hours at a time, don't game. Neither ever had even the slightest hint of burning. Just got a C7P - I am in no fear....as, again, I don't watch Fox (barf), CNN or even MSNBC much nor game. Your life may be different - but as Dale says worrying can literally kill you and 90% of all things we worry about never happen.

Enjoy.
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post #19961 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Culpepper View Post
I just hooked up a new Denon AVR-X4400 to my B7 with HDMI/ARC and so far, no lip sync issues at all.
That is a good thing
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post #19962 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CSonntag View Post
mine is the colored one with different brightness levels and a remote
Okay, so I started this Luminoodle conversation so I might be able to finish it. I got my C7P up and running. I added my multicolor Lumi...to USB 3. I called Power Practical, the manufacturer. (Near instant answer to the call). The person said it draws 1 amp on the multi - as said before. But as to the USB ability to deliver that her impression was at worst if the USB overloaded the Lumi would go unstable - it would not implode the entire TV (or burn the USB port).

So far it works with the set - on instantly, off after about 30 seconds. I want just white so I leave the remote alone but I have to say I like the white choices. I'll try and research how a USB powers and protects itself and update if I find anything.
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post #19963 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post
I don’t think technology is heading in any particular direction. Heck, it’s heading in a million different directions lately! In any case, I’m a frame-rate nut and can spot soap-opera effect a mile away. I have TruMotion set to User 0/0 and it plays a very smooth 24p image without any visible processing/smoothing. That’s literally the first thing I disable when switching picture modes the first time. It has to be off or the TV goes in the trash!
Trumotion User 0/0 isn't the same as turning it off.

User 0/0 is similar to turning Real Cinema off
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post #19964 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mikek View Post
Trumotion User 0/0 isn't the same as turning it off.

User 0/0 is similar to turning Real Cinema off
As far as I’ve ever been aware, User 0/0 is needed (or at least was as of several firmwares back) for proper 24p playback.

Honestly, the whole thing is a mystery. Where did you get your info?
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post #19965 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by stevekaden View Post
Take the Dale Carnegie course How to Stop Worrying and Start Living.

I had two Kuro Plasmas for 8 years. Don't watch news for hours at a time, don't game. Neither ever had even the slightest hint of burning. Just got a C7P - I am in no fear....as, again, I don't watch Fox (barf), CNN or even MSNBC much nor game. Your life may be different - but as Dale says worrying can literally kill you and 90% of all things we worry about never happen.

Enjoy.
Thanks. I don't like letting my tv dictate what I can or cannot watch.
Besides, I game a lot and when I'm not gaming I'm watching Fox News.
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post #19966 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by stevekaden View Post
Okay, so I started this Luminoodle conversation so I might be able to finish it. I got my C7P up and running. I added my multicolor Lumi...to USB 3. I called Power Practical, the manufacturer. (Near instant answer to the call). The person said it draws 1 amp on the multi - as said before. But as to the USB ability to deliver that her impression was at worst if the USB overloaded the Lumi would go unstable - it would not implode the entire TV (or burn the USB port).

So far it works with the set - on instantly, off after about 30 seconds. I want just white so I leave the remote alone but I have to say I like the white choices. I'll try and research how a USB powers and protects itself and update if I find anything.
You may find as i did, when using the TV's USB, its wonky way of powering down sometimes made the strip next start up blink, or change colors and not the last setting it was powered down at. Had to use the remote to reset. This is when I grabbed another, thinking first was defective. Unfortunately the second strip behaved the same way. It ended up being according to Practical, that the processor inside when it gets odd power flow at the end of the cycle it can cause this. This is why i mentioned previous in thread, that the TV's USB holds power even when shut down. This is why it stayed on even when TV was off, or at times actually came back on for a few seconds before complete discharge. It was no big deal, unless the remote control battery dies (and its a battery hog by the way) then you have to pull the string from the USB itself to reset.

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post #19967 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by onaga View Post
What are the disadvantages of using gamma 2.2 in a very dark room?

I say this because, with gamma 2.2 and the right brightness the TV continues to produce perfect blacks, so, infinite contrast, normly the 2.4 gamma was used to give a contrast push to the tvs, is this still necessary?

Also, if I remember correctly, the panasonic and kuros plasmas functioned exclusively with a very flat gamma 2.2, since they produced a high contrast natively.
Gamma 1.8 works well in bright rooms. Gamma 2.4 or BT.1886 are for pitch black rooms - especially the BT.1886 setting. These would be rooms in which you have 100% control over the lighting. Gamma 2.2 is a nice middle ground setting which leans more towards looking great in a dim to dark room. I don't think there are any disadvantages. The lighting in my viewing room fluctuates between medium to dim, so 2.2 works well through all those ranges of lighting. And yes, I'm still seeing perfect blacks even at night when I can get the room pitch dark.

LG OLED65C7P 4-20-19 Calibration SDR/HDR/DV FW 05.80.15: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57928994
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post #19968 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Datagg View Post
You may find as i did, when using the TV's USB, its wonky way of powering down sometimes made the strip next start up blink, or change colors and not the last setting it was powered down at. Had to use the remote to reset. This is when I grabbed another, thinking first was defective. Unfortunately the second strip behaved the same way. It ended up being according to Practical, that the processor inside when it gets odd power flow at the end of the cycle it can cause this. This is why i mentioned previous in thread, that the TV's USB holds power even when shut down. This is why it stayed on even when TV was off, or at times actually came back on for a few seconds before complete discharge. It was no big deal, unless the remote control battery dies (and its a battery hog by the way) then you have to pull the string from the USB itself to reset.
FWIW the Luminoodle that is white only with no remote performs flawlessly plugged into the TV’s USB port.

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post #19969 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiannay View Post
Not sure it is turned off for all picture modes. But it was off for the mode I had selected when watching Netflix. I have since changed to De-Judder at 4 and De-Blur at 10 and it is still a problem for my wife, but less so. For her, TruMotion off was worse. I know this sounds backwards, but she sees what she sees.


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If you or your wife is sensitive to SOE, it might sound weird but try game mode for DV and HDR (this disables Real Cinema and you can leave Truemotion off) and also make sure Real Cinema and Truemotion are off for whatever SDR mode you use. Game Mode is the only way to turn Real Cinema off for HDR/DV content, and I feel it’s the culprit when I feel things are too smooth onscreen. I know there are many on the forum who think motion and Real Cinema are great, but I think my eyes are just used to judder and Real Cinema off ironically looks more to me like how a real cinema looks and how movies look on my iPad and older TV’s. Worth a shot anyway!

I’ve contacted LG and asked for them to allow disabling Real Cinema for DV and HDR, but I think it’s just something I’ll have to live with (or workaround with Game mode).
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post #19970 of 36406 Old 01-19-2018, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by XBR11 View Post
...I know that no reviewer has measured any difference in the PQ between the B7, so it is just my opinion, but the C7 does look a lot better than on the B7...
Don't mistake panel variance for model variance. Both models feature the same panel and processing chips.


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post #19971 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 12:42 AM
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Connected my older Tivo Premiere to my new LG OLED65B7. How can I edit the "Other Devices" name it's using for my Tivo?

Last edited by Resist; 01-21-2018 at 12:56 AM.
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post #19972 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by agentreza View Post
So it doesn't look too dim to you compared to hdr 10? I've yet to try a Dolby vision uhd disk but Netflix and vudu seem too dark
I think this is more a Film Director problem. I suspect it is easier to create atmosphere if the picture is A) Dark, B) Misty, C) Soft focus, D) Sepia tint, or E) Blue tint, F) Grey tint. The constant twilight in many movies will also disguise otherwise clunky transitions from CG effects to straight film, green screen item insertion, superhero 'fake' gymnastics etc. etc.
It is refreshing, but seemingly rare these days, when a film is shot in the daylight! Planet Earth 2 in HLG HDR shows what our fabulous panels are capable of. I am sure the Technicolour improvements hinted at by sonoftumble (taking into account the peak nits the disc is mastered in) will improve things on the C7 but we also need the film directors to be more brave and let us see more of the picture.
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post #19973 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 02:02 AM
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How many LED stripes do you guys use for the bias lighting in you B7s and C7s? Are 2 stripes (bottom and top) enough or it would look better with 2 additional stripes on the sides?

Sent from my S7 Edge using Tapatalk

Last edited by macieqq; 01-20-2018 at 02:09 AM.
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post #19974 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by tppytel View Post
I'm convinced that a lot of opinions about motion processing are based on individual physiology. At a fundamental level, we're just not all seeing the same thing. And then there's some personal preference and familiarity on top that. If you can find some motion settings that are at least "not bad", your wife will probably eventually come around to them looking "pretty good".
At the end of the day, THIS is the most likely explanation for the disparity here in our home. I do believe certain individuals are just more sensitive to SOE.

We have finally found a good middle-of-the-road solution that works for the both of us: De-Judder = 4, De-Blur = 5. We are really enjoying this new technology, and I am very pleased to have AVS Forum here to help us along in these early days.

Thanks everyone!
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post #19975 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cannedcocktail View Post
If you or your wife is sensitive to SOE, it might sound weird but try game mode for DV and HDR (this disables Real Cinema and you can leave Truemotion off) and also make sure Real Cinema and Truemotion are off for whatever SDR mode you use. Game Mode is the only way to turn Real Cinema off for HDR/DV content, and I feel it’s the culprit when I feel things are too smooth onscreen. I know there are many on the forum who think motion and Real Cinema are great, but I think my eyes are just used to judder and Real Cinema off ironically looks more to me like how a real cinema looks and how movies look on my iPad and older TV’s. Worth a shot anyway!

I’ve contacted LG and asked for them to allow disabling Real Cinema for DV and HDR, but I think it’s just something I’ll have to live with (or workaround with Game mode).
Thanks for that suggestion. Although we did finally settle on an acceptable setting (see above post), having additional options to try out is a good thing. I'll give this a shot later today.

Doug
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post #19976 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by macieqq View Post
How many LED stripes do you guys use for the bias lighting in you B7s and C7s? Are 2 stripes (bottom and top) enough or it would look better with 2 additional stripes on the sides?

Sent from my S7 Edge using Tapatalk
One 53" Medialight strip for 65B7P...more than enough lumens.
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post #19977 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macieqq View Post
How many LED stripes do you guys use for the bias lighting in you B7s and C7s? Are 2 stripes (bottom and top) enough or it would look better with 2 additional stripes on the sides?

Sent from my S7 Edge using Tapatalk
It will depend on the size of the TV, how reflective the surface is behind the TV, and the distance between the TV and the wall. I have a 55" in a wall unit with one 3 meter Luminoodle placed in a box shape with an inside tail for the excess strip. The TV is about 8" from a black drape and the LED's provide a dim glow at the top and 3/4 of the sides. I tried to take a photo of it with the TV on but the light is not bright enough to be picked up. This arrangement is sufficient for me.
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post #19978 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 05:57 AM
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New 55" C7 buyer here, replacing a Samsung JS8500. I did some searches on this thread but found surprisingly few "recommended settings" posts. Can anyone direct me to a settings list or otherwise recommend settings? The TV will be used solely for cable TV (FiOS), Apple TV streaming (newest model), and BluRay movies - no gaming. The room the TV will be in is quite bright during the day but dark in the evening. Are the Rtngs settings suggestions a good starting point?

Many thanks in advance for any help.
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post #19979 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post
As far as I’ve ever been aware, User 0/0 is needed (or at least was as of several firmwares back) for proper 24p playback.

Honestly, the whole thing is a mystery. Where did you get your info?
It is talked about extensively in this thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post55411022

and this thread:

https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-...103347/page-45

@3DVideoBuff did some major studying on the LG motion. User 0/0 brings in 3:2 pulldown. Most of this pertains to 2016 models, but I think it still stands for 2017.
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post #19980 of 36406 Old 01-20-2018, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Oil of OLED View Post
Okay, I'm tired of only having one optical out — I need one for my cheap Vizio 2.1 soundbar and another for Sennheiser RF headphones. Can anyone recommend an optical splitter? Do big box stores sell them? I'd love to pick it up today rather than buy online.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got this from Amazon for exactly the same purpose, headphones and sound bar... works just fine
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