2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 723 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21661 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Vesalius View Post
Had the same issue with either DV and HDR set as the default output in AppleTV and Match Dynamic Range and Frame Rate both on. Apparently the ATV4K expects each individual app to set a flag informing it if the video output is SDR, HDR or DV in order to correctly Match Dynamic Range. IF the App fails to do so then the ATV4K will keep outputting your default format, in your case upscaled DV to your TV.

Most Apps that have updated to include HDR or DV output, Netflix and Prime Video in my case, set these flags appropriately based on the selected video. The Apps that do not are mainly SDR only, Directvnow in my case among several others.

The best work around until all apps are updated to work with the ATV4K match criteria is to set your default output to 4K SDR and let the ATV4K switch to HDR or DV for those shows while still correctly outputting SDR for all other apps and shows.
Thanks. Got it. I will set the ATV4K to 4K SDR. I live in Australia so the only app with 4k content I have is Netflix. Everything else is basic HD so it would be great to view this content in ISF Dark Room mode.
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post #21662 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by slosvt View Post
Are you happy with the B7 compared to the VT60?

I'm still looking at OLEDs, but I cannot seem to find a reason to pull the trigger and upgrade my calibrated 65VT60 at this time. I'm leaning more towards upgrading my AVR for Audyssey SubEQ of my dual SVS subs.

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I moved from a 55 inch VT 30 to the 65C7. I was starting to have problems with random shut downs of the VT30. Once I moved it to the bedroom and it was no longer connected to my new Yamaha 2050 the problem disappeared. However, I love my OLED. The upgrade from 1080p to 4K is rarely visible from 12' where I sit. However, I love the added brightness and the blacks, IMHO, are better than the VT30. HDR blows me away. That is the real improvement on this set. In Canada there is a little HDR content on Netflix, Amazon Prime, Apple TV and YouTube. I am happy with my purchase but no doubt part of the improvement is picking up 10" in screen size. I paid almost full original list price last April. I would have loved to wait to the Fall but thought my VT30 was on its last legs. It turns out it wasn't. However, I did get to watch a lot of baseball and some golf on the set this past summer and really enjoyed it.

Either choice should improve your home theatre and I was really glad I moved up to the Yamaha receiver 2 years ago. Good luck making your decision.
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post #21663 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
Have you checked the screen after the completion of an automatic pixel refresher (takes 10-15 minutes to run) which is triggered after 4 hours of usage? Hopefully after a couple of those cycles it will undo what was done by the manual pixel refresher.

Your experience has reinforced my belief that you should avoid running the manual pixel refresher unless you're noticing lingering image retention issues.
So after a few automatic cycles, it's cleared up considerably. In fact it seems to have made the overall banding less severe than before.

I'm not so worried anymore. But yes, good point. Based on my experience I'd also recommend just letting the pixel refreshers do their thing automatically.
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post #21664 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bxbigpipi View Post
Just got my c7 65 inch and Wow!!!!!
I'm upgrading from an 65eg9600 to 65e7p. This is a dream come true. I got a great $ on it too!!!

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post #21665 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rsonnens View Post
I believe if you are watching Netflix it gives you more detailed info about the current stream
Yes, much like other info buttons on other Netflix apps.

I might type 2K for 1080p.
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post #21666 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 08:16 PM
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Is anybody a fan of bt.1886 (high1) as opposed to 2.2? I find that bt.1886 gives way more pop and adds depth to the picture when watching sdr content. 2.2 looks more washed out to my eyes.


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post #21667 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 08:20 PM
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^^^I use bt.1886 because I watch in a controlled light environment. I too find that 2.2 can look a little washed out...however if you have a lot of light in your viewing area then 2.2 would work.
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post #21668 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XBR11 View Post
The increase in pq at about my 200 hour mark was so noticeable, that I wonder if this is a designed feature by LG.

Has anyone else noticed the same increase in the pq around the 200 hour mark?
Yes, and it's kinda freaking me out. I was just noticing the last couple of days that the picture on my 65B7A was looking significantly better with the same sources even though I hadn't changed any settings (using Technicolor Expert at near-default). After seeing this, I checked my TV time and it was 206 hours. Especially noticing the improvement with the crappy, compressed Dish DVR signal.

Maybe this is just some psychological thing? It takes that long for our eyes and brains to adapt to a new set? I'm coming from a 60" plasma Panny ST60 and my viewing distance is around 11 feet. In the beginning, I wasn't that impressed, but now I'm really glad I made the switch.
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post #21669 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd13 View Post
Is anybody a fan of bt.1886 (high1) as opposed to 2.2? I find that bt.1886 gives way more pop and adds depth to the picture when watching sdr content. 2.2 looks more washed out to my eyes.


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It's the same as with any display. Higher gamma gives you more depth and pop at the cost of shadow details. It's just that with OLED's perfect black, it looks more dramatic.

I don't know why they don't let you adjust gamma at like .2 increments.

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Originally Posted by rwinston View Post
Yes, and it's kinda freaking me out. I was just noticing the last couple of days that the picture on my 65B7A was looking significantly better with the same sources even though I hadn't changed any settings (using Technicolor Expert at near-default). After seeing this, I checked my TV time and it was 206 hours. Especially noticing the improvement with the crappy, compressed Dish DVR signal.

Maybe this is just some psychological thing? It takes that long for our eyes and brains to adapt to a new set? I'm coming from a 60" plasma Panny ST60 and my viewing distance is around 11 feet. In the beginning, I wasn't that impressed, but now I'm really glad I made the switch.
I experienced the same thing. I figured I'd moved into the acceptance stage of OLED ownership
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post #21670 of 36412 Old 02-12-2018, 11:10 PM
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I'm interested in using headphones with our LG OLED 55B7P at times when the audio from our LG SJ8 soundbar might disturb my wife. I'm looking for a simple solution - don't want or need (or have room for) an A/V Receiver. I'd like to use a "Neoteck DAC Converter 192kHz Aluminum Digital Optical Coaxial Toslink to Analog Audio Adapter" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ83G4...rum-convert-20) and a "VIMVIP Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter 1 in 2 Out Audio Adapter Cable -Black" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A3NV6XAKT0NANY).

Two questions:

1. As I already use the 55B7P's single optical out to connect with the SJ8 soundbar's single optical in, would I be able to use the "VIMVIP Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter" to split the optical signal from the 55B7P and supply it to my choice of either the soundbar or the Neoteck DAC/headphone, whichever one I want to use at any one time? (Note I would plan to turn off either the soundbar or the DAC - whichever one would not be in use at the time.)

2. Would I be able to use the 55B7P's USB port to supply the 5V DC power requirement of the "Neoteck DAC Converter"?

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by r-gordon-7; 02-12-2018 at 11:14 PM.
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post #21671 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwinston View Post
Yes, and it's kinda freaking me out. I was just noticing the last couple of days that the picture on my 65B7A was looking significantly better with the same sources even though I hadn't changed any settings (using Technicolor Expert at near-default). After seeing this, I checked my TV time and it was 206 hours. Especially noticing the improvement with the crappy, compressed Dish DVR signal.

Maybe this is just some psychological thing? It takes that long for our eyes and brains to adapt to a new set? I'm coming from a 60" plasma Panny ST60 and my viewing distance is around 11 feet. In the beginning, I wasn't that impressed, but now I'm really glad I made the switch.
Reminds me of when I got my first pair of Varifocal specs. The first day I could not judge distances and kept trying to put my foot down on a step that was another six inches away. I could hardly get up the stairs ! Things didn't improve that day.
The very next day, within minutes of putting the specs on, all was well and I never looked back. That taught me that , after a certain break in time, our brain can suddenly adapt to new conditions and it isn't always a gradual, smooth process. It can be yes or no.

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post #21672 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by r-gordon-7 View Post
I'm interested in using headphones with our LG OLED 55B7P at times when the audio from our LG SJ8 soundbar might disturb my wife. I'm looking for a simple solution - don't want or need (or have room for) an A/V Receiver. I'd like to use a "Neoteck DAC Converter 192kHz Aluminum Digital Optical Coaxial Toslink to Analog Audio Adapter" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ83G4...rum-convert-20) and a "VIMVIP Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter 1 in 2 Out Audio Adapter Cable -Black" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A3NV6XAKT0NANY).

Two questions:

1. As I already use the 55B7P's single optical out to connect with the SJ8 soundbar's single optical in, would I be able to use the "VIMVIP Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter" to split the optical signal from the 55B7P and supply it to my choice of either the soundbar or the Neoteck DAC/headphone, whichever one I want to use at any one time? (Note I would plan to turn off either the soundbar or the DAC - whichever one would not be in use at the time.)

2. Would I be able to use the 55B7P's USB port to supply the 5V DC power requirement of the "Neoteck DAC Converter"?

Thanks in advance.
I remember trying one of those splitters. I also remember it only "switches" when the other device is off. Unless you already have headphones you rather not give up, I would go bluetooth.
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post #21673 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r-gordon-7 View Post
I'm interested in using headphones with our LG OLED 55B7P at times when the audio from our LG SJ8 soundbar might disturb my wife. I'm looking for a simple solution - don't want or need (or have room for) an A/V Receiver. I'd like to use a "Neoteck DAC Converter 192kHz Aluminum Digital Optical Coaxial Toslink to Analog Audio Adapter" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ83G4...rum-convert-20) and a "VIMVIP Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter 1 in 2 Out Audio Adapter Cable -Black" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A3NV6XAKT0NANY).

Two questions:

1. As I already use the 55B7P's single optical out to connect with the SJ8 soundbar's single optical in, would I be able to use the "VIMVIP Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter" to split the optical signal from the 55B7P and supply it to my choice of either the soundbar or the Neoteck DAC/headphone, whichever one I want to use at any one time? (Note I would plan to turn off either the soundbar or the DAC - whichever one would not be in use at the time.)

2. Would I be able to use the 55B7P's USB port to supply the 5V DC power requirement of the "Neoteck DAC Converter"?

Thanks in advance.
Just use a set of blue tooth headphones. A much cleaner and easier solution, IHMO.
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post #21674 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 05:32 AM
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Just use a set of blue tooth headphones. A much cleaner and easier solution, IHMO.
I use a wireless headset so I can walk around my house, work out in the yard, or maybe in the garage. I can still hear the TV with the 400 foot range of the wireless headset.

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post #21675 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 05:55 AM
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I moved from a 55 inch VT 30 to the 65C7. I was starting to have problems with random shut downs of the VT30. Once I moved it to the bedroom and it was no longer connected to my new Yamaha 2050 the problem disappeared.
That is odd, but great news !!
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post #21676 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 07:45 AM
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Thank you, works on my E6P
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I remember trying one of those splitters. I also remember it only "switches" when the other device is off. Unless you already have headphones you rather not give up, I would go bluetooth.
Thanks, vince48, gossamer88, mjwagner & charlesrshell. Actually, I do already have a very good pair of non-bluetooth headphones I plan to use (AKG K7XX) - and switching when the other device is off (either the soundbar off when I'm using the the DAC/headphones - or the DAC off when using the soundbar) is exactly how I'd like it to work anyhow.

Last edited by r-gordon-7; 02-13-2018 at 07:49 AM.
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post #21677 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by r-gordon-7 View Post
Thanks, vince48, gossamer88, mjwagner & charlesrshell. Actually, I do already have a very good pair of non-bluetooth headphones I plan to use (AKG K7XX) - and switching when the other device is off (either the soundbar off when I'm using the the DAC/headphones - or the DAC off when using the soundbar) is exactly how I'd like it to work anyhow.
np.

Be curious to know if the behavior of the splitter has changed. Mine was from monoprice and have not used it in years.

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post #21678 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 08:16 AM
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Not at all. You can spend a lot or a little. How much power do you need? Denon has a very inexpensive 4K receiver that has 110 watts per channel and 5 hdmi 2.0 ports (hdcp 2.2) for under $250. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/denon-a...?skuId=5756606
Well actually it isn't 110W per channel. It is listed as 140W at 8 ohm for 1 channel, 70W at 8 ohm for 2 channel, and you can probably imagine where it goes for 5.1 at that point.

I don't know why Denon likes to list 1 channel power (other than people like seeing big numbers that don't mean anything).
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post #21679 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 08:19 AM
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Have any American or Canadian B7/C7 owners been able confirm the HDMI ports are version 2.0b? That version is supposed to support the HLG HDR signaling format.

Interestingly, the LG Canada and LG USA websites do not list what version the HDMI ports are. Other International LG websites do.
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post #21680 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 08:49 AM
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Have any American or Canadian B7/C7 owners been able confirm the HDMI ports are version 2.0b? That version is supposed to support the HLG HDR signaling format.

Interestingly, the LG Canada and LG USA websites do not list what version the HDMI ports are. Other International LG websites do.
I watched some HLG content on YouTube yesterday. This has been available for quite awhile now.

Not sure if this is what you were asking.

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post #21681 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 08:50 AM
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I watched some HLG content on YouTube yesterday. This has been available for quite awhile now.

Not sure if this is what you were asking.
Was that YouTube from a device over an HDMI connection?

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post #21682 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 09:00 AM
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Was that YouTube from a device over an HDMI connection?

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It was the TV YouTube app. Yet i did last year when the update came out I downloaded an HLG clip to a USB stick and it played in HLG format. Hard to recall for sure, yet I believe it was the Nvidia Shield I plugged it into.

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post #21683 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 09:08 AM
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Nvidia Shield does support HLG. https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.ph...ction=showfull

So when the update dropped there wasn't anything on Youtube to test, so I downloaded i think at the time was an LG tech clip to a stick and plugged it into Shield which was connected to a UH8500 at the time to test HLG and it played without fail. Now with content on Youtube becoming a thing somewhat you can find clips there which work beautifully. HLG really looks great, jaw dropping on my C7.

Hope it becomes available in wide broadcast soon.

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post #21684 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 10:24 AM
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Hey people, just registered here to share my issue with you. Maybe someone has gone through this already and managed to fix it without having to replace the TV.

It seems my TV is having issues handling HDR data through any HDMI inputs. I can watch HDR and DV through Netflix's app perfectly, but when I try to play my PS4 Pro the TV simly does not work. I experience a lot of artifacts, TV turns black and takes a little bit to show the image again and then it just turns black and does not go back on until I shut it down first. I don't think the PS4 is the issue here nor is the HDMI cable being used. I plugged another HDMI cable to my computer and experience the same kind of issue when trying to play Battlefront 2 on it (it has HDR as well). Content with no HDR seem to run just fine. BTW I tried with both Ultra HD Deep Colour option ON and OFF for these inputs and experience the same issues. Will try to record a video to better illustrate the issue. Hope you people can help me!
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post #21685 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Felipe Magalhães View Post
Hey people, just registered here to share my issue with you. Maybe someone has gone through this already and managed to fix it without having to replace the TV.

It seems my TV is having issues handling HDR data through any HDMI inputs. I can watch HDR and DV through Netflix's app perfectly, but when I try to play my PS4 Pro the TV simly does not work. I experience a lot of artifacts, TV turns black and takes a little bit to show the image again and then it just turns black and does not go back on until I shut it down first. I don't think the PS4 is the issue here nor is the HDMI cable being used. I plugged another HDMI cable to my computer and experience the same kind of issue when trying to play Battlefront 2 on it (it has HDR as well). Content with no HDR seem to run just fine. BTW I tried with both Ultra HD Deep Colour option ON and OFF for these inputs and experience the same issues. Will try to record a video to better illustrate the issue. Hope you people can help me!
Forgot to mention, my TV is a 65" C7.
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post #21686 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Civuck View Post
Was that YouTube from a device over an HDMI connection?

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Originally Posted by Datagg View Post
It was the TV YouTube app. Yet i did last year when the update came out I downloaded an HLG clip to a USB stick and it played in HLG format. Hard to recall for sure, yet I believe it was the Nvidia Shield I plugged it into.
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Nvidia Shield does support HLG. https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.ph...ction=showfull

So when the update dropped there wasn't anything on Youtube to test, so I downloaded i think at the time was an LG tech clip to a stick and plugged it into Shield which was connected to a UH8500 at the time to test HLG and it played without fail. Now with content on Youtube becoming a thing somewhat you can find clips there which work beautifully. HLG really looks great, jaw dropping on my C7.

Hope it becomes available in wide broadcast soon.
DirecTV is now doing 4K HLG and Atmos sound! See attachments.
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post #21687 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
DirecTV is now doing 4K HLG and Atmos sound! See attachments.
Well that seems to confirm the DirectTV boxes and the LG B7/C7 televisions both have HDMI 2.0b connections if HLG is being flagged and identified.
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post #21688 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Felipe Magalhães View Post
Hey people, just registered here to share my issue with you. Maybe someone has gone through this already and managed to fix it without having to replace the TV.

It seems my TV is having issues handling HDR data through any HDMI inputs. I can watch HDR and DV through Netflix's app perfectly, but when I try to play my PS4 Pro the TV simly does not work. I experience a lot of artifacts, TV turns black and takes a little bit to show the image again and then it just turns black and does not go back on until I shut it down first. I don't think the PS4 is the issue here nor is the HDMI cable being used. I plugged another HDMI cable to my computer and experience the same kind of issue when trying to play Battlefront 2 on it (it has HDR as well). Content with no HDR seem to run just fine. BTW I tried with both Ultra HD Deep Colour option ON and OFF for these inputs and experience the same issues. Will try to record a video to better illustrate the issue. Hope you people can help me!
Unless both HDMI cables are new Certified Premium High-Speed HDMI Cables, I would still suspect they are culprits.

Monoprice sells some cheap enough to try via their website or Amazon if you can get the shipping cheaply. I would try that first.
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post #21689 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 10:33 AM
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This is a two part question. Can HDMI 2.1 with eARC be implemented via a software update or is that a hardware feature? If it’s a software feature, hopefully LG will add it in the near future.

I am asking for one particular reason. I plan on upgrading to a 5.1 soundbar system. My original plan was to run my ATV 4K, cable box, and Oppo directly to the TV via HDMI and use the ARC port from the TV directly to the soundbar. BUT, after doing some research, reading, and talking to more knowledgeable people then myself on the forum, it seems that to get the best sound, I should connect all my devices to the soundbar first, then run the HDMI out from the soundbar to the TV.

IF eARC can be added, I can just go with my original plan and just deal with the “watered down” sound until it’s available because eARC will allow uncompressed sound (ATMOS, DTS:X) via ARC. If not, I would have no choice but to go through the soundbar first. That brings me to my second question. Is the uncompressed sound I would get buy going through the soundbar dramatically better?

I only want to do this setup once, if possible. Thanks in advance!
No one other than LG could say if eARC could be added as a firmware update.

However even if it could, there are no soundbars on the market as far as I know that support eARC. There are a few AVRs that do. I have only ever seen Marantz and Denon offer it though, although there may be a few others.

I am not sure if the difference between TrueHD and DD+ would be dramatic. Is the difference between a good MP3 and a CD dramatic? Certainly there is a difference.
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post #21690 of 36412 Old 02-13-2018, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Vesalius View Post
Unless both HDMI cables are new Certified Premium High-Speed HDMI Cables, I would still suspect they are culprits.

Monoprice sells some cheap enough to try via their website or Amazon if you can get the shipping cheaply. I would try that first.
I live in Sweden, no Amazon here. But the cable that comes with the PS4 Pro should be able to handle PS4's Pro own output bandwidth, it is unacceptable to be the other way around. And I got good cable for the computer to the TV, will try to find a picture of the brand and put it here.
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