2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 844 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #25291 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 07:56 AM
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So does anyone else with a Yamaha receiver who also has HDMI CEC ON have some issues with the tv? When I press the power button and both devices come on - it always defaults to TV audio!

I never had this problem with my Samsung TV, but now it always starts up on TV audio. I can sit there and watch the receiver turn on to AV2 like I want it to, and then it switches to AUD1 for the TV right away as both devices come on.

Edit: Searched the thread and found no solutions. It is definitely an LG HDMI CEC issue. Reading back confirmed that these TVs don't play nice with other devices.

Exact same setup with my Samsung TV and I no issues at all. Not so with the LG.

Oh and my Philips 4K bluray player is a nightmare as well. It auto switches back to TV audio anytime I pause a movie, or skip to the next scene - I actually have to turn HDMI CEC off on the receiver to even make movies watchable.

I have a Yamaha RX-A3050 btw. Maybe I will go with Denon next time. Someone else in this thread found a setting in their Denon that always remembered the last HDMI input and didn't ALWAYS turn onto the TV audio input upon powering on.

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post #25292 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 07:59 AM
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is there any way to lock the digital HDMI signal type? for example on my kuro i could lock my signal to these 4 options: 1) Digital Component 4:2:2 Locked 2) Digital Component 4:4:4 Locked 3) Digital RGB 16-235 Locked 4) Digital RGB 0-255 Locked. Does the LG C7 have that option?
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post #25293 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by JameX View Post
Well, there you have it boys. I just asked Vincent Teoh about dynamic tone mapping on HDR game mode update for 2017 LG OLED models. As far as LG has told him, it's a no go due to hardware limitation (CPU limitation). I asked him about roumors of B8 having the same CPU as 2017 models, he clarified it's similar, but no the same CPU, thus the limitation. There you have it, we can put this to rest.

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Which isn’t a big deal for me in the end. I think games look great on my B7

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post #25294 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Rojas View Post
is there any way to lock the digital HDMI signal type? for example on my kuro i could lock my signal to these 4 options: 1) Digital Component 4:2:2 Locked 2) Digital Component 4:4:4 Locked 3) Digital RGB 16-235 Locked 4) Digital RGB 0-255 Locked. Does the LG C7 have that option?
Your source device determines this (at least for #1 and #2 ). You can specify RGB levels by input regardless of what RGB levels are sent to the TV. For instance you can set RGB to 0-255, but still send 16-235 with your source device as the TV has no control over what your source device sends to the TV.

If you don't receive 1-4 is your desired outcome that the display not show the content?
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post #25295 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cmdrdredd View Post
Which isn’t a big deal for me in the end. I think games look great on my B7
I think they look definitely better with cinema mode and dynamic tone mapping.
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post #25296 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 08:18 AM
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2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

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Originally Posted by Manuxs1806 View Post
I think they look definitely better with cinema mode and dynamic tone mapping.


With 60+ ms of lag no thanks. They look great in game mode to me. Actually cinema mode looks the same with my settings. Only standard is vastly different.
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post #25297 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 08:22 AM
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[QUOTE=forreal;55914520]Chad B responded a while ago to a question about KevinSartori's post and he apparently echoed what you said above:



That's because he had posted much earlier that Edge Enhancer seems to be a useless function:



That is obviously in direct contrast to what Kevin noticed. Weird how the two observations can be so different.

We don't need to take any of this on authority or faith, however. We can confirm one way or another for ourselves by doing Kevin's testing procedure. I still haven't done it, which should take just a minute or two, but I'm too lazy to do even that. Aren't we all a bit like the guys in WALL-E now?

Ha, that was pretty funny! And I agree... first we start saving music/movie discs to a hard drive so we don't have to get off our lazy assets to put a disc in the tray, now people are going to hook up Alexa to their systems because it's a bit much to reach for that remote
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post #25298 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
Well I haven't tested every single picture mode but I have tested a decent sample on my B7 and I found that where Edge Enhancer is available as an option then setting it to Off cancels any Sharpening that you have dialled in but setting it to On will exhibit the Sharpening that you had set. This is true for BOTH HDR Picture Modes AND SDR Picture Modes.
The way I tested was to select a picture mode, set Sharpening to max (50) and then freeze the video that is playing and toggle between Edge Enhancer On and Off. It is very easy to then see the difference that Edge Enhancer is making.
Also using this method I left Egde Enhancer On and toggled between Sharpness at 10 and at 0. I couldn't see any difference at all in the two.
Very confused by LG saying it is a Bypass function so set it to On. I suppose they mean that when it is Off it bypasses your Sharpness settings, which indeed it does.
the way that LG worded it is also interesting- "The Edge Enhancer setting in the Expert Picture Mode Settings does not increase sharpness; the default ‘On’ setting is a bypass function, and is therefore recommended"

they specifically mention that it only applies in the 'Expert' Picture Modes, which should mean it's only for ISF Dark and ISF Bright (at the time they released that pdf the Technicolor Mode had yet to be released)...something else must be going on beyond what is being shown on the display...D-Nice specifically stated that the bypass only applies to HDR modes...RTings recommends the same (Off for SDR and On for HDR)...in every Picture Mode Edge Enhancer defaults to On which is also strange...you would think that at the very least the 3 Expert Modes would default to Off since they were calibrated by people outside of LG I'm assuming...Edge Enhancer continues to be the big mystery setting of the 2017 LG OLED's
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post #25299 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by XBR11 View Post
@alexbarbel - after your sharpness testing, what do you like for its settings?
I have put edge enhancer to On and Sharpness to 10.
I can't say that I actually see a difference between Sharpness at 0 or 10 but I did read somewhere that below 10 softens the image and as I had to decide on a setting I thought 10 was as good as 0. If you start to climb higher you will see the artificial edge enhancement common to these sharpening settings.

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post #25300 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dwaleke View Post
Your source device determines this (at least for #1 and #2 ). You can specify RGB levels by input regardless of what RGB levels are sent to the TV. For instance you can set RGB to 0-255, but still send 16-235 with your source device as the TV has no control over what your source device sends to the TV.

If you don't receive 1-4 is your desired outcome that the display not show the content?
So what you are saying is that whatever the source is sending, whether it be RGB or component, the TV will automatically sync up with it? I use my TV solely for console gaming and I do receive content. Right now i have the TV "Black Levels" setting set to Low (RGB Limited 16-235), and my PS4 sending out RGB limited. However I just wondering if I could set my TV to accept only RGB Full (0-255).
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post #25301 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 09:26 AM
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So what you are saying is that whatever the source is sending, whether it be RGB or component, the TV will automatically sync up with it?
Yes it does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Rojas View Post
I use my TV solely for console gaming and I do receive content. Right now i have the TV "Black Levels" setting set to Low (RGB Limited 16-235), and my PS4 sending out RGB limited. However I just wondering if I could set my TV to accept only RGB Full (0-255).
You can set the RGB level (high or low) per input.

If you set the TV to RGB 0-255 you can still send RGB 16-235, but blacks will be gray, etc. You can also do the reverse where blacks and whites are clipped.
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post #25302 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 09:36 AM
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Am I imagining things or does the same .mkv video looked a lot better (less judder) when played from the usb than the pc connected do the tv?
I am a bit underwhelmed by the sound quality. That's why I was thinking about buying JBL 450 soundbar. Any reason why this would be a terrible idea?
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post #25303 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 09:37 AM
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Any chance we get bfi on the 2017 models? Id honestly rather have that than anything else at this point. I miss my plasma motion resolution.
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post #25304 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 10:01 AM
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Well guys, thanks to all of you (and some Sony x900e thread too), yesterday in the afternoon, I’m another father of an Oled baby .
It’s a shame they run out of sets to came back home with it, but on Wednesday I’ll have it. I’ll finger cross to the panel lottery, wish me luck! I’ll post what I see (btw, how you guys see the hours of a the panel, and that stuff?).

Thanks so so much for advice me in the right direction and always be so nice to me
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post #25305 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 10:10 AM
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Any chance we get bfi on the 2017 models? Id honestly rather have that than anything else at this point. I miss my plasma motion resolution.
From all accounts I have seen, BFI is crap. It just makes your screen flicker. I have seen it on the A1 and it was useless.

I also had a plasma and I think that motion was better, but BFI (at least the way I have seen it implemented) is not the answer.
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post #25306 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by shinbojan View Post
Am I imagining things or does the same .mkv video looked a lot better (less judder) when played from the usb than the pc connected do the tv?
I am a bit underwhelmed by the sound quality. That's why I was thinking about buying JBL 450 soundbar. Any reason why this would be a terrible idea?
Playback quality depends heavily on the htpc configuration.

I never use the sound on any of my TVs as I find the sound quality to be less than ideal. A good soundbar will be better than the sound from most TV speakers.
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post #25307 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 10:43 AM
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Hi guys,

I am about to purchase a 55" C7P and figured this was a great place to help answer one of my questions:

It looks like the tv with stand, lifts the screen up by 1.5 inches. Curious, should I be concerned when purchasing a soundbar that would be placed in front of this tv? Thinking of getting yamaha 207 as a temporary solution until atmos soundbars come down in price or biting the bullet (doubtful) and getting something like the Bose soundtouch 300. Either way, these soundbars are 2.4 and 2.2 inches respectively. Is it a valid concern to think that these soundbars could block a portion of the screen?

Thanks for any feedback and any other advice you guys may have. Been battling what to do for sound in terms of going with stock temporarily, yamaha 207 for $299 for a while or long-term Bose 300 for $699 (ouch!). Using the soundbar for music as well (bluetooth/hooking up with Alexa).
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post #25308 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 10:47 AM
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Burn In

I've had my C7 since early May and have accumulated almost 2000 hours of usage.

I lowered my OLED Light to 60 last Summer when I heard that this might mitigate OLED burn in potential.

Apparently that wasn't soon enough or it didn't matter and I spend too much time in the YouTube menus as I have burn from using the app. The burn in is composed of the two small rectangular shortcut boxes in the lower right hand corner of the app. I don't have a high quality camera on my phone but you can make out one of the rectangles. And no I don't spend all day on YouTube, far from it.

This TV has to go and I'll need to find a LCD that I can live with. I plan on keeping the EG9100 as it's not used nearly as much as my main TV.
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post #25309 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
I've had my C8 since early May and have accumulated almost 2000 hours of usage.

I lowered my OLED Light to 60 last Summer when I heard that this might mitigate OLED burn in potential.

Apparently that wasn't soon enough or it didn't matter and I spend too much time in the YouTube menus as I have burn from using the app. The burn in is composed of the two small rectangular shortcut boxes in the lower right hand corner of the app. I don't have a high quality camera on my phone but you can make out one of the rectangles. And no I don't spend all day on YouTube, far from it
I see a rectangular box towards the upper left of that image...I don't see anything on the lower right
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post #25310 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:00 AM
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I see a rectangular box towards the upper left of that image...I don't see anything on the lower right
It's a close up picture of the lower right hand side of my panel. If I had a better camera I would post a picture from afar.

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post #25311 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post
So does anyone else with a Yamaha receiver who also has HDMI CEC ON have some issues with the tv? When I press the power button and both devices come on - it always defaults to TV audio!

I never had this problem with my Samsung TV, but now it always starts up on TV audio. I can sit there and watch the receiver turn on to AV2 like I want it to, and then it switches to AUD1 for the TV right away as both devices come on.

Edit: Searched the thread and found no solutions. It is definitely an LG HDMI CEC issue. Reading back confirmed that these TVs don't play nice with other devices.

Exact same setup with my Samsung TV and I no issues at all. Not so with the LG.

Oh and my Philips 4K bluray player is a nightmare as well. It auto switches back to TV audio anytime I pause a movie, or skip to the next scene - I actually have to turn HDMI CEC off on the receiver to even make movies watchable.

I have a Yamaha RX-A3050 btw. Maybe I will go with Denon next time. Someone else in this thread found a setting in their Denon that always remembered the last HDMI input and didn't ALWAYS turn onto the TV audio input upon powering on.

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I have run into the same problem with the Yamaha 2050 receiver. Before the 65C7 I had a Panny 55VT30 and did not have any problems. I am using a Harmony remote and just programmed Listen to TV on the screen which I press to change the audio input. I don't have this problem switching once the system is up and running only if I try and turn on the system from a full power off. I have also had problems with the ATV4K and the Oppo as well. I have all CEC turned off except that which is necessary to make ARC work.
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post #25312 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
I've had my C8 since early May and have accumulated almost 2000 hours of usage.

I lowered my OLED Light to 60 last Summer when I heard that this might mitigate OLED burn in potential.

Apparently that wasn't soon enough or it didn't matter and I spend too much time in the YouTube menus as I have burn from using the app. The burn in is composed of the two small rectangular shortcut boxes in the lower right hand corner of the app. I don't have a high quality camera on my phone but you can make out one of the rectangles. And no I don't spend all day on YouTube, far from it.

This TV has to go and I'll need to find a LCD that I can live with. I plan on keeping the EG9100 as it's not used nearly as much as my main TV.
It should run the "clear panel noise" program at 2000 hours. Might want to run it now, ahead of time...see if that helps. Olight level 60 is still a bit high for preventing BI from what I read. Most who are concerned with it run it much lower. Think I hear 30~35 used most commonly. Personally I use 20 or lower for Youtube...unless it's something I really care about and have company over. Don't need bright N pretty when it's just me alone. As long as I can see it well enough I'm good.

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post #25313 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenbar View Post
It should run the "clear panel noise" program at 2000 hours. Might want to run it now, ahead of time...see if that helps. Olight level 60 is still a bit high for preventing BI from what I read. Most who are concerned with it run it much lower. Think I hear 30~35 used most commonly. Personally I use 20 or lower for Youtube...unless it's something I really care about and have company over. Don't need bright N pretty when it's just me alone. As long as I can see it well enough I'm good.
Oh, I've done that. That's more for lingering image retention issues. Once you have permanent image retention it's my understanding nothing will make it go away.

As for YouTube that sounds like good advise. You can always raise the OLED light once the video starts.
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post #25314 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:22 AM
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I had this problem but it has gotten better in the last week. Rebooting and then resetting the router seems to have helped. Its still not great but its good enough at about 30Mb. Someone else had suggested to disconnect from the 5GHZ DFS channel

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Yeah, what's really annoying is that the TV does not store Wi-Fi passwords...not sure how this functionality was missed (so you have to re-enter a password every time you jump networks) and I can hope this may be coming in a future firmware update.

I played around my (crappy) ATT Uverse Pace 5268AC (2.4/5GHz) router yesterday and did a full reset to restore default values because I was having issues (specifically with the TV and the 5GHz network). I then used Wi-Fi Analyzer on my Shield TV to figure out the best channels to set for both radios and configured the router to always use the same channels (not set to auto). The TV literally sits 2 feet directly above the router so it can't get much closer. I'm routinely having issues where the 5GHz network is extremely latent on the TV (to the point where I can't even run a speedtest on the LG Browser or the Netflix internal app reports 1Mbit connection speed). I jump to the 2.4Ghz network and then back to the 5Ghz network and everything works fine again. No idea what's going on and I might just give up and run an ethernet cable to the TV (would rather not do this considering I actually don't have any open ethernet ports on the router and because it means running another cable up the wall). Probably TV's fault with the Wifi.

Unrelated - ran the pixel refresh for the first time last night (I think have around 100 hours on the TV now). Curious to see if I see any changes - probably won't

What's the suggest frequency to run the pixel-refresh?

Josh
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post #25315 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:31 AM
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...Either way, these soundbars are 2.4 and 2.2 inches respectively. Is it a valid concern to think that these soundbars could block a portion of the screen?
It's easy to raise the TV up as needed using shelving or ceramic tiles under the stand.
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post #25316 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:31 AM
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Hi guys,

I am about to purchase a 55" C7P and figured this was a great place to help answer one of my questions:

It looks like the tv with stand, lifts the screen up by 1.5 inches. Curious, should I be concerned when purchasing a soundbar that would be placed in front of this tv? Thinking of getting yamaha 207 as a temporary solution until atmos soundbars come down in price or biting the bullet (doubtful) and getting something like the Bose soundtouch 300. Either way, these soundbars are 2.4 and 2.2 inches respectively. Is it a valid concern to think that these soundbars could block a portion of the screen?

Thanks for any feedback and any other advice you guys may have. Been battling what to do for sound in terms of going with stock temporarily, yamaha 207 for $299 for a while or long-term Bose 300 for $699 (ouch!). Using the soundbar for music as well (bluetooth/hooking up with Alexa).
I have a 55B7A. Its spec'd height without base is 27.9"; the C7P, 28.0".

I find that the distance from the bottom of the image to the outside of the bezel is about 1/2" (13mm). So, anything taller than 2.0" (51mm) will block the image a little.

If that's unacceptable to you, you could put some sort of riser under the base. With sound bars that short, you wouldn't need much. (Piece of 3/4" plywood?)

Next level: a tabletop stand that uses the VESA (wall mount) points. An example that I own: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Sta...ght+adjustment

Because of the low placement of the mounting points on the C7, mounts tend to take it high. I needed that to clear a center that's 10.5" tall.

Higher level: an actual wall mount.

Other alternative: live with the TV sound until you can afford an AVR, and discrete speakers. The C7P does some sort of limited Atmos reproduction.
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post #25317 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:34 AM
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...What's the suggest frequency to run the pixel-refresh?
Never. The pixel refresher is automatic, and the industrial strength version (approx 1 hour) is recommended only if you have a problem with image retention you need to address.
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post #25318 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:34 AM
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Olight level 60 is still a bit high for preventing BI from what I read. Most who are concerned with it run it much lower. Think I hear 30~35 used most commonly. Personally I use 20 or lower for Youtube...unless it's something I really care about and have company over. Don't need bright N pretty when it's just me alone. As long as I can see it well enough I'm good.
I've been running rtings.com settings for the 350+ hours so far and my OLED light has been at 16 the entire time. I'm happy with the picture in my dark room. I even set up blackout curtains the other day to keep it dark... LOL

I'm about to check out sonoftumble's settings but will still probably run a low OLED light regardless. I just don't care for bright displays having went from plasma to OLED and skipping LCD altogether. The fact the lower light setting is supposedly a BI protection is an added bonus... but that's not why I set it up like that.

I can see myself taking it up to the 30's but not much beyond that. I was looking at it yesterday and even a setting in the 50's I didn't really care for.
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post #25319 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:38 AM
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...Unrelated - ran the pixel refresh for the first time last night (I think have around 100 hours on the TV now). Curious to see if I see any changes - probably won't

What's the suggest frequency to run the pixel-refresh?
I wouldn't run it at all unless you're noticing lingering image retention. As alluded to earlier the TV will run it every 2000 hours on its own. The TV runs a smaller compensation cycle (takes about 10-15 minutes to complete) after 4 hours of usage.

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post #25320 of 37432 Old 03-25-2018, 11:39 AM
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Yeah, what's really annoying is that the TV does not store Wi-Fi passwords...not sure how this functionality was missed (so you have to re-enter a password every time you jump networks) and I can hope this may be coming in a future firmware update.

I played around my (crappy) ATT Uverse Pace 5268AC (2.4/5GHz) router yesterday and did a full reset to restore default values because I was having issues (specifically with the TV and the 5GHz network). I then used Wi-Fi Analyzer on my Shield TV to figure out the best channels to set for both radios and configured the router to always use the same channels (not set to auto). The TV literally sits 2 feet directly above the router so it can't get much closer. I'm routinely having issues where the 5GHz network is extremely latent on the TV (to the point where I can't even run a speedtest on the LG Browser or the Netflix internal app reports 1Mbit connection speed). I jump to the 2.4Ghz network and then back to the 5Ghz network and everything works fine again. No idea what's going on and I might just give up and run an ethernet cable to the TV (would rather not do this considering I actually don't have any open ethernet ports on the router and because it means running another cable up the wall). Probably TV's fault with the Wifi.

Unrelated - ran the pixel refresh for the first time last night (I think have around 100 hours on the TV now). Curious to see if I see any changes - probably won't

What's the suggest frequency to run the pixel-refresh?
I have the same Uverse router, not sure if that means anything. Just remembered that someone else installed an Access Point behind their TV, and then ran an ethernet cable from the Access Point to the OLED. You might want to search the thread and try that.

Btw, there is an app by LG R&D Russia on the Content Store called Internet Speed 2, which is a simple easier to use speed test

Regarding the manual pixel refresh, the consensus is to not use it unless necessary as long term use can shorten panel life. The OLED has an automatic refresh after the TV is powered off and there is 4 hours of cumulative usage.
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