2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 866 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #25951 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cmdrdredd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5x10 View Post
The rtings tests make me think it’s panel by panel

My 1080 oled has seen tons of hours of gaming with HUD and there’s no BI at all



I’m currently putting it through the ringer with fortnite, without worry


Thing with rtings though is they are not varying the content like we would. A few hours a day of gaming sure but would t you also watch a movie or show in between somewhere? Definitely not 20 hours of ansi how game and nothing else lol
i know, but they have two TVs showing the same content , CNN, with the only difference being the oled light

Surprisingly, the lower oled is the one with burn in! (One would think a higher oled light would burn in faster)
Makes me think each panel has a different affinity for burn in
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post #25952 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by beardontwalk123 View Post
Haha.....you will be so much happier by defaulting the settings. A factory reset is not necessary (you will have to login to everything again). If you just go to the Picture Mode Settings there is a Reset selection right below Apply to all inputs. I would hit the reset and then hit the Apply To All Inputs. I am in the group that thinks copying others settings can do more harm than good, but you can always reset them if you don't like them with the above method. I personally wouldn't change Contrast, Brightness or Color. OLED Light is completely subjective for SDR (although with it at stock 80 you may get some ABL). With HDR and Dolby Vision I also wouldn't touch OLED Light because the Metadata of the HDR is based upon those OLED Backlight settings. 2 pt and 20 pt start to get really display dependant and can vary from display to display.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Now that I know this OLED display is so fast and bright it can blind me, while watching a hockey game I'm ready to reset and put some new numbers in. Although the Geeksquad guy told me he had calibrated LG OLED's before, I think he was BSing me. After spending 2.5 hrs. tuning I thought it strange he said couldn't calibrate ATV4k Dolby, he didn't know why and would call me back(which he didn't). I recall thinking well that isn't surprising as Dolby is a reference that should not be allowed to changed. Maybe I'm wrong in my assumption about Dolby, but it makes sense to this untrained guy.

Anyway on his report the 10 point numbers he adjusted seem too significant for a display that is normally pretty accurate. If I do a reset on the display does it change the 10 point values back to factory values? And if so how can I access those setting? And if not what should those values normally be?
Attached is the cal report, don't know why it is shown upside down?

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post #25953 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 01:51 PM
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It is sad that OPPO is closing up (slowly but surely). I've always wanted a 203, and now it looks like I won't be able to get one.
Wow, did not see that <<< Click Here >>>> Hope they still release that firmware patch for DV and Sony.....
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post #25954 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by john_99 View Post
Now that I know this OLED display is so fast and bright it can blind me, while watching a hockey game I'm ready to reset and put some new numbers in. Although the Geeksquad guy told me he had calibrated LG OLED's before, I think he was BSing me. After spending 2.5 hrs. tuning I thought it strange he said couldn't calibrate ATV4k Dolby, he didn't know why and would call me back(which he didn't). I recall thinking well that isn't surprising as Dolby is a reference that should not be allowed to changed. Maybe I'm wrong in my assumption about Dolby, but it makes sense to this untrained guy.

Anyway on his report the 10 point numbers he adjusted seem too significant for a display that is normally pretty accurate. If I do a reset on the display does it change the 10 point values back to factory values? And if so how can I access those setting? And if not what should those values normally be?
Attached is the cal report, don't know why it is shown upside down?

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post #25955 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 01:53 PM
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Closing up?
Wonder why Oppo is shutting down!

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post #25956 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 01:57 PM
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Wonder why Oppo is shutting down!


If you were on the fence over the Oppo models, this would knock me right off. Nothing like buying into dead end gear that is already on the expensive side.
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post #25957 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by john_99 View Post
Now that I know this OLED display is so fast and bright it can blind me, while watching a hockey game I'm ready to reset and put some new numbers in. Although the Geeksquad guy told me he had calibrated LG OLED's before, I think he was BSing me. After spending 2.5 hrs. tuning I thought it strange he said couldn't calibrate ATV4k Dolby, he didn't know why and would call me back(which he didn't). I recall thinking well that isn't surprising as Dolby is a reference that should not be allowed to changed. Maybe I'm wrong in my assumption about Dolby, but it makes sense to this untrained guy.

Anyway on his report the 10 point numbers he adjusted seem too significant for a display that is normally pretty accurate. If I do a reset on the display does it change the 10 point values back to factory values? And if so how can I access those setting? And if not what should those values normally be?
Attached is the cal report, don't know why it is shown upside down?

That's the other mistake he made....he only did a 10pt. If you only do a 10pt with 20pt controls it could introduce some posterization....a reset will completely change your settings to stock as well as everything else. They are easy enough to access and change back if need be.

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post #25958 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by charlesrshell View Post
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Closing up?
Wonder why Oppo is shutting down!
probably in response to physical media sales shrinking year after year
IMO

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post #25959 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by XBR11 View Post
It is sad that OPPO is closing up (slowly but surely). I've always wanted a 203, and now it looks like I won't be able to get one.

Only the division of the BD players/electronic or the Mobiles too?

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Truth be told, I tend to avoid games with stationary HUD elements that cannot be toggled off or that are dynamic. I'll admit that I've grown to prefer playing without the clutter on the screen, but it does certainly limit my gaming options overall.

If I can, I’ll hide the huds with every game, but mostly, you can’t

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I'll give me 2 cents. On my panny plasma I have some burn-in from gaming. I have part of the lower left HUD from destiny that will display on my panny when that part of the screen is white or near white. It's not that bad and doesn't bother me too much but it's there.



I don't think displaying different content for 15 minutes will help a ton to prevent burn in. Burn in will happen if you repeatedly display the same content so if you keep displaying the same box on the screen, eventually those pixels will get more worn out than the rest and it will be visible. In my case, I had a few months where I played a lot of destiny. I would say there were days where I played 3-5 hours. I would watch movies and TV when I wasn't playing but the accumulation of displaying that UI over the period of a few months created the burn-in. If you play the same game a lot I would be careful on a TV like this.

I understand, I read much of cases like yours...but most Oled users and reviewers says that this is a better technology in this regard too, like Cmdrdredd say down here.

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I play PUBG, Madden, Rainbow Six, and I watch movies, and TV shows. I feel like I vary it enough to not worry about it. I have about 400 hours on mine and haven't noticed any IR yet. I wouldn't worry too much if you vary your content.....or even games.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

This eases my mind and heart haha, thanks! You don’t hide the huds if you can, did you?
And what do you do after a long session of one game for example?


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I don’t think it’s fair to compare plasma to OLED. There are owners with hundreds of hours on certain games who haven’t had burn in. They say so in the burn in threads. In my view they key with these is to vary your content enough so that the pixels get refreshed.

I think this is the most accurate answer for this tech, but I think like RTINGS oleds, it can varying from Tv to Tv too sadly...I hope not.

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Originally Posted by Kenbar View Post
Oleds offer awesome PQ. But because of uneven wearing/aging they are not ideal for gaming. Perhaps the new 2018's will be, with their logo dimming high option. That said, on the 2016~2017's the lower you can run the olight level, and be happy, the better. Personally, I feel dropping the color way down offers additional protection. All the way down to Black and white would of course be best...but I'm sure no one would do that anymore than they would use the zoom feature when watching widescreen movies.



Maybe you can use an older tv you have for gaming with HUD's on the screen?

I sell a gaming monitor to replace it with this beast

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Thing with rtings though is they are not varying the content like we would. A few hours a day of gaming sure but would t you also watch a movie or show in between somewhere? Definitely not 20 hours of ansi how game and nothing else lol

This too is true

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And I wouldn't worry. Huge gaming house here. From heavy handed huds, for hours at a pop etc have had no issues. We do alter gaming content of course, yet still any given game could go for hours at a pop. No issues at all.

Another user that eases my mind haha. And what do you do after a long session of one game for example?

THANKS SO MUCH AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU!!!!!
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post #25960 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 02:29 PM
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Now that I know this OLED display is so fast and bright it can blind me, while watching a hockey game I'm ready to reset and put some new numbers in. Although the Geeksquad guy told me he had calibrated LG OLED's before, I think he was BSing me. After spending 2.5 hrs. tuning I thought it strange he said couldn't calibrate ATV4k Dolby, he didn't know why and would call me back(which he didn't). I recall thinking well that isn't surprising as Dolby is a reference that should not be allowed to changed. Maybe I'm wrong in my assumption about Dolby, but it makes sense to this untrained guy.

Anyway on his report the 10 point numbers he adjusted seem too significant for a display that is normally pretty accurate. If I do a reset on the display does it change the 10 point values back to factory values? And if so how can I access those setting? And if not what should those values normally be?
Attached is the cal report, don't know why it is shown upside down?
That brightness setting of 63 alone would be enough to confirm the guy had no idea what he was doing. Your descriptions of your interactions with him just go to confirm this.

I'd call best buy and ask for a refund, and reset settings to default. Then spend some time with this amazing master info thread and this outstanding detailed settings post. Going through these in detail will help you get to know what each setting does and set your amazing new TV up close to perfectly.

Depending on where you live there is every possibility that one of the known quality calibrators on this very forum may be in your area sometime in the near future. That would be money well spent to really get the absolute best results. Money well spent on such a nice piece of equipment I think.
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post #25961 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 04:26 PM
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Has anyone ever done this? Is it even possible?

Let's assume that a film is considered reference for color gamut, sharpness, detail, resolution, sound, etc, etc.

(The numbers below are made up. I'm asking if numbers like this really exist.)

If you watch the same movie at home, thru cable then you get 70% of the video and 55% of the audio.

If you play a 4k disc of the movie thru a receiver, then you get 85% of the video and 85% of the audio.

If you stream you get 80%.

-----

Those are made up numbers.

But if I had something like this, then if moved over to streaming from physical discs, then I would understand what I'm giving up.

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post #25962 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 04:43 PM
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If you were on the fence over the Oppo models, this would knock me right off. Nothing like buying into dead end gear that is already on the expensive side.
Except that the Oppo 203/205 is probably the best UHD player you can get for discs. Just for example Cambridge Audio has a clone of the 203 available but theirs is $700.

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post #25963 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 04:44 PM
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This eases my mind and heart haha, thanks! You don’t hide the huds if you can, did you?
And what do you do after a long session of one game for example?
I don't hide the hud at all...I just play the game as is. After a long session of gaming I turn the TV off....haha, but seriously I either just watch something else or I turn it off because it's 2 a.m. If you wanted to you could run the Pixel Refresher that activates either right away or it will activate when you shut the TV off and that is supposed to clear any IR.

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post #25964 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 5x10 View Post
probably in response to physical media sales shrinking year after year
IMO
UHD disc sales are strong according to the studios. Oppo isn't a large manufacturer for electronics. They are quite small and niche for consumer electronics. They don't have volume. Costs are going up. Their parent company is a very large mobile phone manufacturer which is their primary business. The cost to manufacturer the players probably outstripped the profit. BBK Electronics owns brands like Oppo and OnePlus and sold nearly 200million phones last year. They are the 3rd largest phone manufacturer in the world. Oppo makes cell phones too. This will be their future, not home theater electronics and headphones.

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post #25965 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 05:43 PM
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UHD disc sales are strong according to the studios. Oppo isn't a large manufacturer for electronics. They are quite small and niche for consumer electronics. They don't have volume. Costs are going up. Their parent company is a very large mobile phone manufacturer which is their primary business. The cost to manufacturer the players probably outstripped the profit. BBK Electronics owns brands like Oppo and OnePlus and sold nearly 200million phones last year. They are the 3rd largest phone manufacturer in the world. Oppo makes cell phones too. This will be their future, not home theater electronics and headphones.
I'm still using my old OPPO BDP-83 as my sole disc player. It's still among the best of disc players for upscaling SD DVDs, but of course only to 1080p. I still don't have a 4K disc player and was was hoping to eventually buy either a 203 (or its next generation successor) at some point in the future. However, given OPPO's unfortunate decision to exit the market... Are there any other UHD disc players that have upscaling to 4K (both from SD DVD and from Blu-Ray) comparable in quality to the OPPO 203 (i.e. somewhat better than the upscaling found in our 2017 LG OLEDs) AND that have an HDMI input, like the OPPO 203 has, for external signal sources, so that its higher quality upscaling circuitry to 4K can also be used to upscale signals from external sources such as from a Comcast cable box?
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post #25966 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 07:19 PM
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I don't hide the hud at all...I just play the game as is. After a long session of gaming I turn the TV off....haha, but seriously I either just watch something else or I turn it off because it's 2 a.m. If you wanted to you could run the Pixel Refresher that activates either right away or it will activate when you shut the TV off and that is supposed to clear any IR.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


It’s something that crossed my mind, but then I read here that It shortens the life of our TVs
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post #25967 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 07:29 PM
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I'm still using my old OPPO BDP-83 as my sole disc player. It's still among the best of disc players for upscaling SD DVDs, but of course only to 1080p. I still don't have a 4K disc player and was was hoping to eventually buy either a 203 (or its next generation successor) at some point in the future. However, given OPPO's unfortunate decision to exit the market... Are there any other UHD disc players that have upscaling to 4K (both from SD DVD and from Blu-Ray) comparable in quality to the OPPO 203 (i.e. somewhat better than the upscaling found in our 2017 LG OLEDs) AND that have an HDMI input, like the OPPO 203 has, for external signal sources, so that its higher quality upscaling circuitry to 4K can also be used to upscale signals from external sources such as from a Comcast cable box?
Why not just get a 203 before they're gone? It's very solid.
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post #25968 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 07:36 PM
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Another user that eases my mind haha. And what do you do after a long session of one game for example?

THANKS SO MUCH AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU!!!!!
Fraternize with the wife, then move to another game hopefully before the kids steal it.
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LG OLED 65” C7 Calibration ( OLED65C7P ) FW: 04.70.36 (FW Links Below) - REV. 3.2 - JAN. 22 18

Both B7 and C7 models should benefit from these settings. This is assuming that your panel’s performance / specs are fairly close to mine. Variances in panels may yield different results. For most of us, it should be very close. If the variance is less than 3%, you will enjoy an awesome SDR and HDR picture.

These are actual meter based calibration settings ( vs. disc based ) using a recently certified ( June 2017 ) Spectracal C6 meter, Murideo 6G pattern generator, and CalMan for Biz 2017.

SDR NOTES: With Rev. 3.2, I switched picture modes to technicolor Expert and have continued my focus on white balance, and as you will see, I have spent quite a bit more time adjusting the 20 point. This led to better color behavior so that the adjustments to the CMS are purely optional. On my particular panel, it helped with flesh tones. As you will see with the pre-calibration attachment, the technicolor Expert picture mode is extremely accurate.

HDR: Now using "technicolor Expert" with Dynamic Contrast set to "Low", Edge Enhancement set to "On" and Black Level set to "Low". I could not tell the difference between that setting and all the things I did with the Cinema (User) picture mode in the previous calibrations. I am really enjoying the PQ I'm getting without fussing with the CMS or 20 point White Balance.

DOLBY VISION: The most recent version of CalMan includes two DV workflows. The second “DV custom" workflow allows the calibrator to create a special file just for 2017 LG OLED’s, which is saved to a thumb drive and then loaded into the TV. Spectracal, Dolby, and LG worked very closely together to create this awesome workflow. It’s actually faster and easier to go through than an SDR calibration.
To install, you start out by playing DV content on the TV, and set the picture mode to "Cinema ( User )”. Next, plug in the thumb drive with the special file into the USB port on the side. The TV will prompt you and ask if you would like to install the file. Answer "Yes" and less than a second later ( it's a very small < 1K ) the file is loaded. If you answer "No", the original factory file is reloaded. And you are done. Eject the thumb drive and enjoy.

The DV “custom” workflow focuses on greyscale and once the 2 point and 20 point have been adjusted, Calman then creates the file ( plain text ) and the calibration session is complete. There are no other adjustments, and the CMS is left untouched. If you are interested in taking a closer look at this file, you should send me a private message with an email address so I can send to you.

Rev. 3.2 - Updated screenshots attached.

Rev. 3.2

SDR Settings
SDR Picture Mode: “technicolor Expert”
Energy Saving: Off

BASIC SETTINGS:
OLED LIGHT: 49
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10
Color: 48
Tint: 0

EXPERT CONTROLS
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Edge Enhancer: On
Color Filter: Off
Gamma: 2.2 ( If you have 100% lighting control in the room and can get it really dark, then try BT.1886 or 2.4 )

WHITE BALANCE
Color Temperature: Warm2

Method: 2 Points
High - R: -5, G: 0, B: -1
Low - R: 0 G: -1, B: 0

Method: 20 Points
100 IRE, R: -6, G: -5, B: -7
90 IRE R: -9, G: -8, B: -11
80 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
70 IRE R: -5, G: -7, B: -8
60 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
50 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
40 IRE R: 1, G: -1, B: 3
30 IRE R: -3, G: -4, B: -2
20 IRE R: 3, G: 2, B: 1
10 IRE R: 5, G: 6, B: 4


COLOR MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
RED - Sat: 0, Tint: 0, Lum: -1
GREEN - Sat: 0, Tint: 0, Lum: 2
BLUE - Sat: 2, Tint: 1, Lum: 5
CYAN - Sat: 2, Tint: 2, Lum: 2
MAGENTA - Sat: 2, Tint: 5, Lum: 0
YELLOW - Sat: 3, Tint: 0, Lum: -1

PICTURE OPTIONS
Noise Reduction : Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On ( Default - greyed out )
Motion Eye Care: Off
TrueMotion: Off

HDR-10 Picture Mode: technicolor Expert

BASIC SETTINGS:
OLED LIGHT: 70
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: 10
Color: 48
Tint: 0

EXPERT CONTROLS
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Edge Enhancer: On
Color Filter: Off
Gamma: 2.2 ( default and greyed out )

WHITE BALANCE
Color Temperature: Warm2
Method: 2 Points
High - R: -5, G: -3, B: 3
Low - R: 1 G: -1, B: -3

PICTURE OPTIONS
Noise Reduction : Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On ( Default - greyed out )
Motion Eye Care: Off
TrueMotion: Off

DV Picture Mode: Cinema (User)

OLED Light: 70 (I have a medium bright room)
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10
Color 48
Tint: 0

NOTE: The below settings must be accompanied with the installation of the DV calibration file as explained above.

WHITE BALANCE
Color Temperature: Warm2
Method: 2 Points
High - R: -3, G: 0, B: 1
Low - R: 5 G: 0, B: 0

Method: 20 Points
100 IRE R: 10, G: -18, B: -1
95 IRE R: 8, G: -13, B: 0
90 IRE R: 6, G: -11, B: 0
85 IRE R: 0, G: -10, B: 2
80 IRE R: 5, G: -9, B: 0
75 IRE R: 7, G: -6, B: -1
70 IRE R: 4, G: -9, B: -2
65 IRE R: 0, G: -8, B: -2
60 IRE R: 0, G: -6, B: -2
55 IRE R: 0, G: -6, B: -3
50 IRE R: 3, G: -3, B: -2
45 IRE R: 0, G: -5, B: -4
40 IRE R: 0, G: -4, B: -2
35 IRE R: 0, G: -4, B: -4
30 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
25 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
20 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
15 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
10 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0
5 IRE R: 0, G: 0, B: 0

Here's the links ( U.S. ) to download 4.70.36. These are big files ( 800+ megs ) and will take a while to download and also copy to a USB stick.

( The above referenced files may be identical, but just in case. )

Enjoy. Feedback is welcome.
Great post, sonoftumble. I've been using your SDR settings with great results. I'm a noob with calibrations (no equipment, just my eyes, and what I borrow from others) I have follow up question to your DV settings: Can you elaborate on the "Custom workflow" file needed? You mention it's a small file, but I'm not sure what you are referring to. I've updated my 2017 C7's firmware to 4.70.36 via the native update, but I think you are referring to something else. Can I simply use the DV settings you show in your 11773 post without a file? Thanks!
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post #25970 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PlanetAVS View Post
I'm using the same router and was having problems as well. It seemed to clear up after a reset of the router (pushing the red reset button on the back, as opposed to a complete power off of the router). But it deteriorated again until I reset again. No need to re-login to the LG wireless network
yeah, did the full reset...everything was working fine. I even checked with WiFi Analyzer on Android and updated the 2.4 / 5GHz channels as the app suggested - moved away from "auto" channel because that clearly doesn't work.

And it's not just the TV that has trouble with the (piece of garbage) Pace AP. Even my iPhone X continually drops off the 5GHz network and jumps to the shared apartment building's 2.4GHz network. I don't get it. I checked in the Pace Admin and I see the devices are only getting 25-40 (no idea on what this value actually represents and the Admin doesn't specify either) "signal strength" in Statistics. I'm not even sure how that's possible since the TV is literally sitting on top of the AP.

Our building is incredibly congested...but our apartment is a 1BR and not very big. I would expect the AP to be able to blast through most of that interference - especially when I am attempting to pick the least congested channels. Maybe not - based on the un-updated SSIDs, almost everyone is using the same AP/router - which sucks. The 2.4GHz network is more powerful but it just can't handle UHD streaming. I can barely get it to function at 10Mbit speeds.

I want to call ATT and request an updated modem/router - this one is now over a year old - but I fear how long that conversation is going to be and what replacement they actually end up sending. Guess I could get ANOTHER better wi-fi router but I really, really don't want to do that...

Anyway, end of rant...

Your last statement - you don't need to continually re-enter the Wi-Fi network password when you jump or disconnect from networks? How?

Josh
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post #25971 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usurpers26 View Post
It really sounds worse than it is.

So by your list, you are not routing through an AVR.

In that case, your HDMI 1 is going to be all SDR - and unfortunately Comcast does not output 1080p. 720p is the best you are gonna get. They do have new 4k set top boxes but I don't think there is a real use for them yet.

HDMI 2/3/4 - SDR or HDR10
Internal Apps - SDR or HDR10 or DV

You can only configure the pic mode based on the source you are feeding it.

So you cannot configure HDR10 or DV pic modes when you are watching cable (since that is SDR). You could fire up some Netflix, play some DV shows and then tweak away at the DV pic mode of your choice. Rinse and repeat for HDR10.

If it were me I would most likely use:
HDMI1 - Technicolor
HDMI2/3 - SDR Game / HDR Game / Technicolor (if watching bluray/HDR10)

For DV sources, I use the Cinema (user) pic mode.

So really you have five unique pic modes used regardless of HDMI input or internal apps: Technicolor for SDR. Game for SDR games. Game for HDR games. Technicolor for HDR10. Cinema (user) for DV. Once you configure each pic mode to your liking, choose "apply to all inputs" and now you have the same settings across the board when choosing said pic mode.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ABeezy13 View Post
That is super intimidating. Setting up all those inputs. But essentially I could just copy them like you said. This shouldnt be that confusing but I am kind of all over the place. So if you don't mind me asking whats the best way to go about this? The way I have each thing connected:

HDMI 1- Comcast/Xfinity Box
HDMI 2 - Xbox One X
HDMI 3 - Sony Playstation 4 Pro
HDMI 4 - PC/Other

So if I want to set everything up correctly and copy to all inputs, how does that work? For example Cable is brodcast in 1080P, is that considered SDR? Is there like a guide on how to set up each type of content on one input? I guess I am failing to realize how to set up each type (SDR, HDR, ETC) on one input. I don't think I am even properly explaining what I am thinking in my head and trying to ask lol. I probably sound like an idiot right now.
So it’s taken me forever to get back to this but I followed the settings for setting up SDR using the settings you suggested. What about regular HD context? For example Blu Rays or HD on Netflix, that isn’t 4K/HDR. Is there settings for that?
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post #25972 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
yeah, did the full reset...everything was working fine. I even checked with WiFi Analyzer on Android and updated the 2.4 / 5GHz channels as the app suggested - moved away from "auto" channel because that clearly doesn't work.

And it's not just the TV that has trouble with the (piece of garbage) Pace AP. Even my iPhone X continually drops off the 5GHz network and jumps to the shared apartment building's 2.4GHz network. I don't get it. I checked in the Pace Admin and I see the devices are only getting 25-40 (no idea on what this value actually represents and the Admin doesn't specify either) "signal strength" in Statistics. I'm not even sure how that's possible since the TV is literally sitting on top of the AP.

Our building is incredibly congested...but our apartment is a 1BR and not very big. I would expect the AP to be able to blast through most of that interference - especially when I am attempting to pick the least congested channels. Maybe not - based on the un-updated SSIDs, almost everyone is using the same AP/router - which sucks. The 2.4GHz network is more powerful but it just can't handle UHD streaming. I can barely get it to function at 10Mbit speeds.

I want to call ATT and request an updated modem/router - this one is now over a year old - but I fear how long that conversation is going to be and what replacement they actually end up sending. Guess I could get ANOTHER better wi-fi router but I really, really don't want to do that...

Anyway, end of rant...

Your last statement - you don't need to continually re-enter the Wi-Fi network password when you jump or disconnect from networks? How?
Consider putting the ATT Pace router/gateway in bypass mode and set up a entirely new network with new equipment. You can use a wireless router of your choice if you want to go the quick route. I have the Motorola ATT router (sister to the Pace AC router) and put it in bypass mode and built a home network that utilized Ubiquity wireless network equipment, which is very robust and cost effective. Utilized a Unifi Security Gateway with Unifi Cloud Key in conjunction with Unifi AC (dual radio) Pro Access Points throughout our home. It's basically a corporate/enterprise level network in the house. Again, you don't have to go to this extent...the key is bypass that Pace router so it's purely a gateway and utilize another piece of equipment to handle routing and wireless management.

Last edited by Chris Hansen; 04-03-2018 at 10:15 PM.
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post #25973 of 36418 Old 04-03-2018, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABeezy13 View Post
So it’s taken me forever to get back to this but I followed the settings for setting up SDR using the settings you suggested. What about regular HD context? For example Blu Rays or HD on Netflix, that isn’t 4K/HDR. Is there settings for that?
SDR = normal HD content (or Standard Dynamic Range)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hansen View Post
Consider putting the ATT Pace router/gateway in bypass mode and set up a entirely new network with new equipment. You can use a wireless router of your choice if you want to go the quick route. I have the Motorola ATT router (sister to the Pace AC router) and put it in bypass mode and built a home network that utilized Ubiquity wireless network equipment, which is very robust and cost effective. Utilized a Unifi Security Gateway with Unifi Cloud Key in conjunction with Unifi AC (dual radio) Pro Access Points throughout our home. It's basically a corporate/enterprise level network in the house. Again, you don't have to go to this extent...the key is bypass that Pace router so it's purely a gateway and utilize another piece of equipment to handle routing and wireless management.
yeah, I guess I just didn't want ANOTHER piece of equipment that really shouldn't be necessary. My apartment is like 750sqft...its not a massive space and the POS Pace router/gateway should handle the job.

I did find a few posts on Reddit /r/OLED which suggested disabling Quick Start to help with Wi-Fi consistency. Going to try that and see if that resolves my problem.

Josh
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post #25974 of 36418 Old 04-04-2018, 06:25 AM
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Blu Rays/HD/4K are SDR and would follow whatever pic mode you calibrated for SDR. Obviously you can always tweak OLED light / gamma to your room/lighting conditions.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ABeezy13 View Post
So it’s taken me forever to get back to this but I followed the settings for setting up SDR using the settings you suggested. What about regular HD context? For example Blu Rays or HD on Netflix, that isn’t 4K/HDR. Is there settings for that?
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post #25975 of 36418 Old 04-04-2018, 06:34 AM
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I don't hide the hud at all...I just play the game as is. After a long session of gaming I turn the TV off....haha, but seriously I either just watch something else or I turn it off because it's 2 a.m. If you wanted to you could run the Pixel Refresher that activates either right away or it will activate when you shut the TV off and that is supposed to clear any IR.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I would not do this unless you are seeing IR. This is only meant to do 1-2 times a year at most. It will wear out your panel if you're using it all the time.
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post #25976 of 36418 Old 04-04-2018, 06:35 AM
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A question about Calibration if anyone knowledgeable can help, please.

My TV has been Calibrated, but soon after LG Service Replaced my Main Board & Network Card due to internet connection issues.

I had to spend 3 hours adding the Calibration Settings in after this.

Can I assume the Calibration Settings are still valid even though the Main Board was replaced?
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post #25977 of 36418 Old 04-04-2018, 07:05 AM
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Wonder why Oppo is shutting down!
I'd imagine the market for $500+ blue ray players is pretty small.

There's a nice big thread about it. I still didn't see any advantages in the Oppo over the $179 LG. Most of the extra features of the Oppo only the hardcore enthusiasts care about.
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post #25978 of 36418 Old 04-04-2018, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post

And it's not just the TV that has trouble with the (piece of garbage) Pace AP.


Your last statement - you don't need to continually re-enter the Wi-Fi network password when you jump or disconnect from networks? How?
I haven't had any wifi problems with any other devices other than the LG OLED. It auto reconnects to the network after the reset, not sure why you are having a different experience.
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post #25979 of 36418 Old 04-04-2018, 08:03 AM
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2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisPNW View Post
I'd imagine the market for $500+ blue ray players is pretty small.



There's a nice big thread about it. I still didn't see any advantages in the Oppo over the $179 LG. Most of the extra features of the Oppo only the hardcore enthusiasts care about.


Some people want a device that is all metal and is much quieter because of the dampening. It’s not just the features.

I guess you can compare it to the B7 Vs C7 where the c7 is a little more premium but has the same picture quality.

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post #25980 of 36418 Old 04-04-2018, 08:29 AM
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I haven't had any wifi problems with any other devices other than the LG OLED. It auto reconnects to the network after the reset, not sure why you are having a different experience.
Sorry, two different use-cases...my TV also reconnects automatically upon boot and restart.

I was talking about when I manually disconnect from the Wi-Fi network and then reconnect from the Settings menu. There is no option to save the Wifi Network password which forces you to re-enter it. You also can't quickly switch between two networks for this reason (doesn't save password once you disconnect). Pretty annoying...

Josh
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