Looks kind of damned if you do, damned if you don't with HDR gaming on an LG OLED, as RTING's review of the C8 shows its game mode isn't tracking EOTF correctly. LG overcompensated and made the C8's game mode far too bright.

I have purchased a ps4 and the last god of war that I play on my b7. I use game mode and hdr is activated but the game looks very dark.. Any idea to correct it ? Many thanks

It's really annoying to have to deal with such issues after spending a good chunk of $ on it, but at least i'm getting some decent warranty support. Will see to getting a 2019 OLED for 4k 120hz on HDMI 2.1 if they make some 40 inch models so i can use it comfortably as a PC monitor.

HI. Thinking of buying the OLED65B7A. Currently I have a OPPO BDP-203, a TiVo Bolt+, an Apple TV 4k all connected via HDMI to a Onkyo 805 receiver feeding a Sony 1080p LED. Been replacing peripherals as they die with 4k capable ones.

I was assuming I could connect each of the 4k peripherals to the OLED65B7A via HDMI for 4k video, and to the Onkyo 805 via HDMI for the audio (5.1 for the foreseeable future). Now I'v read that maybe sending all 4k video and sound to the OLED65B7A and route the audio back to the 805 via optical? Any owners have a suggestion on how to do what I'm attempting??


Thanks!

I would hook up all of your peripherals to the TV via HDMI (to get 4K, HDR including DV) and I would also use the second HDMI out from the OPPO to the Onkyo so that you can get lossless audio from your Blu Ray discs. Since you do not have ARC on your receiver you are stuck using Optical to get sound from any peripheral connected to the TV to the receiver (save for the OPPO). The TiVo Bolt+ and the Apple 4K don't have a second HDMI out so you need to connect them directly to the TV to get 4K, HDR10 and DV but your sound will go to your receiver through the optical link. You will only be able to pass DD rather than DD+ from the Apple 4K and TiVo but that shouldn't really create much of a problem for your audio setup.

Wow, that sucks with the P605. Will have to check out the new 6-series when it comes out next week and see if that is still an issue before I decide if I want to purchase.

I get that there is some inherent banding (pretty much with with greys) as it relates to OLED panels, so I'm not one of those people looking for band-free OLED. I'm totally ok with some banding -- the problem is that the banding on my original panel was so bad it became apparent on all different kinds of content, and was glaringly obvious when running color slides on pretty much all colors. That's for sure completely unacceptable. LG agreed and swapped out the panel. Next panel had another glaring banding issue on greys, and LG again agreed it wasn't normal and was going to swap it out for another panel, but then let me know of the panel supply issues.

I posted photos up of the first banding issue on another electronics forum, and other OLED owners agreed it wasn't normal and it should be replaced. I also compared other owners' photos of their grey banding issues with the second panel I had, and again, it was outside of the norm. Both times I wasn't looking for banding issues either -- I just happen to see them, which should indicate how bad they were.

It sounds like you have a good panel, which is great to hear. Unfortunately I wasn't so lucky. I get that there are some OLED owners out there that are super anal, but I'm really not one of them. There is a certain level of quality though that I am expecting for the price I paid, as well as expecting a product to perform as intended, and if when comparing it with others as to what that level should be (including the manufacturer themselves) it doesn't reach that level and perform as it should, then it's clearly a problem.

Sure, it could be that I'm just really unlucky. I get it -- it happens, even with the best products and manufacturers. But there have been enough discussions of hoping to "win the panel lottery" with these TV's (which isn't very inspiring), but more importantly, the fact that LG has a supply issue and can't properly support these high-end TV's is extremely troubling. At least they are willing to buy back the TV without much hassle, so I appreciate that and shows me that LG is accepting responsibility, which I can't say is the case with other electronics manufacturers out there.

So I may see what's up with the TCL, or possibly even pay up for a Sony LCD. There's still a very slim possibility I purchase another OLED and see what happens, but I'm just concerned I'll end up being back in the same position I am now.

If only microLED was available and affordable now!

Thanks very much!

One more thing: the OPPO has an HDMI in and I was thinking connecting the Apple TV or the TiVo (or both with an HDMI switch?) through it would work for the 4K, HDR10, and DV to the TV and sound to the Onkyo (which I'm hoping will die, but it just keeps on working)?

Thanks again.

The Oppo HDMI input does not support Dolby Vision. It only supports HDR10 input.

I have purchased a ps4 and the last god of war that I play on my b7. I use game mode and hdr is activated but the game looks very dark.. Any idea to correct it ? Many thanks

So has anyone had any issues wall mounting this? Is there any risk of the brackets sticking out beneath the TV due to the lower placement of the holes?

I color calibrated my C7 doing the following: On PC input, using a Color Munki Smile with DisplayCal in Game mode with Energy Saving set to auto (in a dark room), adjusting the Color Temperature setting until it aligned the RGB bars at the center (the setting was 33, by the way) and then letting it calibrate with White Level Drift Compensation activated and RGB Range set to Auto (which appeared to be Full as a I had calibrated it using Limited first, but the resulting ICC profile made the image look washed out like an incorrect setting, even though in the Nvidia Control Panel it shows to be set to Limited, with YCbCr 4:4:4).
I noticed when I came back after a while (it had taken ~30 minutes to calibrate) that after I moved the mouse the TV's brightness increased.

Did I do everything right and could the automatic brightness decrease have impacted the calibration results (And if yes, how could I keep the TV from doing that?)?

I've never calibrated an OLED, but I do periodically calibrate my computer displays with x-rite Pantone i1Display Pro. Once calibrated, if you change the brightness level it requires re-calibration because that changes color rendition.

I really doubt that Color Munki is up to the task of a proper calibration of a C7, but it's your TV.

That has been mentioned as a problem once, but most wall mounts I have seen let you mount the set very near the bottom of the vertical brackets. I think mine is a several year old Sanus wall mount and I am close to the bottom holes on the mount - but not all the way down - and have no problem. Obviously, the LG dedicated bracket is not a problem at all except for trying to follow the mounting instructions and lack of much horizontal flexibility, which is why I stayed with my old mount.

I currently have an KDL52XBR5 on a wall mount. I was just looking at it and I'm not sure it would work... a real problem for me as the condition upon which I can replace the Sony (which still works) with the B7A is that I do not have to get anything else...

My "substantial" mount (the Sony is heavy!) has two horizontal cross bars about 15 inches apart to which the vertical brackets attach, so there would be a lot of the mounting system (I'm guessing the top horizontal cross bar and about 2/3 of the vertical brackets) above the screw holes. Anybody think my mount will work?

Thanks.

If you find the existing mount is not a good fit, here's an inexpensive ($25) mount from Monoprice that is quite good and low profile.

The Korean to English translation did not come out well on a few things:
DC low = on, this enables HDR (this setting is recommended for games and movies that are HDR)
DC medium = low
DC high = high
Then black level = low, and for game mode gamma choices are low, medium, high, I use medium.

The other quirk is edge enhancement. EE on = sharpness function available, EE off = not available (even though you can still set a sharpness value). This is not available in game mode, but it sure drive me crazy when sharpness settings made no difference on calibration slides.

No production TV produces more than about 1500 nits, and OLEDs are 700-800 (maybe?) but using the HDR Premium specification as a reference you get two orders of magnitude more black levels with the OLED over a LCD, hence the contrast ratio and black level superiority of OLED.

Should DC be set to low on Dolby Vision as well?

I got the LG mount. Tilts, swivels, and has leveling screws. Also allows set to pull straight out making inputs/outputs very accessible.

Thanks. But my wife seriously would not buy into that. It's not the $ outlay, it's the principle of not replacing operational equipment, and not tearing up the walls... I was amazed she said yes to the B7A!

ADDED: Believe it or not, Sanus website says my mount is discontinued but it still has a "Is this compatible with your TV?" function, and it says not w/OLED65B7A. So I guess I'm out of luck for now.

^^^lol the C8 is stealing our thunder!

EDIT:

Mount is Sanus VMDD26: https://www.sanus.com/en_US/products/mounts/vmdd26/

I currently have an KDL52XBR5 on a wall mount. I was just looking at it and I'm not sure it would work... a real problem for me as the condition upon which I can replace the Sony (which still works) with the B7A is that I do not have to get anything else...

My "substantial" mount (the Sony is heavy!) has two horizontal cross bars about 15 inches apart to which the vertical brackets attach, so there would be a lot of the mounting system (I'm guessing the top horizontal cross bar and about 2/3 of the vertical brackets) above the screw holes. Anybody think my mount will work?

Thanks.

The Korean to English translation did not come out well on a few things:
DC low = on, this enables HDR (this setting is recommended for games and movies that are HDR)