2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 913 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27361 of 36523 Old 04-30-2018, 10:16 PM
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Brand new owner (delivered today) of a 55" C7P. Still getting used to it.

It is fed from a Yamaha RX-A860 AVR that I bought last year along with some other equipment in anticipation of my 4K upgrade. The A860 is fed from a new Oppo UDP-203 on HDMI1 input, along with a Roku Ultra on HDMI2 input. both of these inputs supporting HDCP 2.2. Cables are all Premium Certified (with QR logo) in lengths of 3ft or 6ft.

I was trying to set the Roku "display" to support UHD [email protected] HDR, which I thought all of this equipment and cabling was supposed to support. The Roku was unhappy and complained that "this input cannot handle [email protected] HDR", but rather only [email protected] HDR. It can handle [email protected], but not [email protected] HDR.

Am I mistaken? Do I have something set incorrectly, in the A860 perhaps? In the C7 perhaps? This equipment is really all new to me, and I haven't yet spent any time trying to play with sophisticated settings or trying to copy some Internet-available YouTube calibration set of values. I'm just really getting started, and I thought confirming that I could stream "Better Call Saul" in Ultra 4K HDR would look good (I've got the C7 set to Expert (dark room) , with everything else still pretty much "out of the carton", and it looks very good).

Can someone please advise me of what I need to do to correct this? Surely this hardware is intended to support [email protected] HDR. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks.
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post #27362 of 36523 Old 04-30-2018, 10:47 PM
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I just purchased an open box 55" C7P from Best Buy. The stand was not included, so I'm trying to hunt down an OEM replacement. Are the stands for the 65" and 55" models the same and/or interchangeable?
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post #27363 of 36523 Old 04-30-2018, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post
Brand new owner (delivered today) of a 55" C7P. Still getting used to it.

It is fed from a Yamaha RX-A860 AVR that I bought last year along with some other equipment in anticipation of my 4K upgrade. The A860 is fed from a new Oppo UDP-203 on HDMI1 input, along with a Roku Ultra on HDMI2 input. both of these inputs supporting HDCP 2.2. Cables are all Premium Certified (with QR logo) in lengths of 3ft or 6ft.

I was trying to set the Roku "display" to support UHD [email protected] HDR, which I thought all of this equipment and cabling was supposed to support. The Roku was unhappy and complained that "this input cannot handle [email protected] HDR", but rather only [email protected] HDR. It can handle [email protected], but not [email protected] HDR.

Am I mistaken? Do I have something set incorrectly, in the A860 perhaps? In the C7 perhaps? This equipment is really all new to me, and I haven't yet spent any time trying to play with sophisticated settings or trying to copy some Internet-available YouTube calibration set of values. I'm just really getting started, and I thought confirming that I could stream "Better Call Saul" in Ultra 4K HDR would look good (I've got the C7 set to Expert (dark room) , with everything else still pretty much "out of the carton", and it looks very good).

Can someone please advise me of what I need to do to correct this? Surely this hardware is intended to support [email protected] HDR. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks.
For the RX-A860, what do you have the HDMI 4k signal format (mode) set to? (P. 129 in the downloadable manual.) I believe that it defaults to Mode 2. Try Mode 1.

I think that the C7 should be fine with most of its settings at "auto".
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post #27364 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 12:03 AM
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Could I have lived without the calibration? Of course. I said the picture was stunning then and I'll say it now... only this time I'll throw in the word "more" as in "more stunning."

I do see a difference and that's why I have no buyer's remorse about the calibration in addition to the TV itself.

Thanks again @Chad B !
If you like his Video calibration work, you should see his audio calibration work
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post #27365 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
For the RX-A860, what do you have the HDMI 4k signal format (mode) set to? (P. 129 in the downloadable manual.) I believe that it defaults to Mode 2. Try Mode 1.

I think that the C7 should be fine with most of its settings at "auto".
I had the default value of 2 as you mentioned. I changed it to 1, but to no avail. Still get the error from Roku "display".



On another matter, I'm still struggling to get multi-channel audio from the pre-outs of the A860. I've posted this question in the A860 owners' thread, but so far no help.

Unless the A860 that I have is defective, I can't help but believe that the fact I am (or was) sending audio out over HDMI to the TV (along with video) was the source of the problem since TVs normally accept 2-channel 2.0 stereo. Although I thought the C7 can accept and pass through multi-channel audio via HDMI, I decided to turn off HDMI output of the A860 for both HDMI1 and HDMI2. That way presumably the TV doesn't participate in the HDMI handshake with the A860, and so with the A860 only concerned with its own local speaker system it would presumably retain the DD5.1 format and send it to the 7.1 pre-outs. Unfortunately, this still doesn't work.



If you have any ideas on this second issue, I'm open to any suggestions to adjust some mystical setting somewhere in the A860 setup.
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post #27366 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 01:39 AM
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Well... for heaven's sake!!! Is this how it's going to go???

I decided to look for the error message on the interweb to see what others did about it, and was led to a setup tutorial on the Roku site for what it takes to enable UHD [email protected] HDR. In particular, for LG sets you have to enable HDR color on the HDMI input. By default it is NOT on, so I discovered. I had to turn it on. I don't understand how I could get 4K HDR at 30hz then, but maybe that's not "HDMI ultra deep color" which 60hz is.

LG HDR TVs: Home > HDMI > Settings > Advanced > Picture > HDMI ULTRA DEEP COLOR > On > Restart



Case closed.

Now if I could only solve my 2.0 audio output problem
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post #27367 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 05:04 AM
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Hey all,

Im new here and just bought an LG C7V 55inch model this weekend

This is what the banding looks like (see attached)

Ive maybe only had the TV on for about 15 hours by this point. Is this a particularly bad panel and worth returning for another? Also, is it likely that this will get better? I was able to notice it slightly in Westworld on Sky last night but thats it.

Cheers
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post #27368 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex View Post
Couldn't submit repair request online. I get a pop-up that says "This model number is Swap unit." Called and set up appointment by phone. Rep had me unplug TV and hold power button 10 seconds. No change. Asked her about the "This model number is Swap unit." online and she couldn't really explain it.
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cross your fingers for a 2018 model
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Originally Posted by robnalex View Post
They're sending a technician, so I don't think that's likely.
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Originally Posted by grubavs View Post
In my limited experience (Sony rear projection XBR), they send out the tech, the tech confirms that the unit is unrepairable/dead, they offer replacement... charging you some $ for a more advanced unit if there is "no available" like unit.
The local shop has already ordered parts, so it appears they've narrowed the issues down. They said they'd have parts in 1-2 days.

We've been watching our shows on a 13" MacBook- a humbling experience. We do still have a 14-year-old 55" Panasonic plasma resting in front of the fireplace. We'll probably put her back in service if it looks like it's going to be a while before the 65C7P can be brought back to life.

They don't make 'em like they used to! Maybe it's just a fluke, but having a TV die after only 4 months and about 250 hours is discouraging. That 14-year-old plasma is still going strong! All it ever needed was a new power supply at 12 years.
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post #27369 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaijusurf View Post
I just purchased an open box 55" C7P from Best Buy. The stand was not included, so I'm trying to hunt down an OEM replacement. Are the stands for the 65" and 55" models the same and/or interchangeable?
Here's one.
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post #27370 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 07:48 AM
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Ok... I'm home. I'm not planning on broadcasting all my settings across all picture modes for the world to see because every set is different and it wouldn't do you much good to copy them. Not only that but there's a whole lot of RGB numbers across the color management system that were adjusted.

But... here's a couple with the basics:

ISF Expert Bright = OLED light 80 color 50 color gamut auto tint R4
ISF Expert Dark = OLED light 49 color 48 color gamut auto tint R2

I asked Chad about Technicolor vs ISF Expert mode and he said they come different from the factory but calibrate the same. That was all I needed to hear... wasn't going to question it.

I believe Mo also got ISF Expert Bright/Dark on her set.
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I know Chad B was recommending color auto 52(ish) and tint r2(ish) for the 2017’s specifically the C7. Was there something different about the B7A that had him lower the color auto to 48? Color auto 48 is more in line to what Sonoftumble had for his settings. I notice skin tones are more realistic with the lower color setting.

I inputted color extended 44( to lower what D-Nice recommended) and tint 0 and flipped back and forth between 48 auto tint r2 and 44 extended tint 0 and they looked exactly the same. For those who don’t have access to a quality calibration(I tried D-Nice but not enough interest in Portland to schedule a visit) maybe 44 extended tint 0 would be similar setting based on Chad B’s results. I know Chad B adjusted only the tint settings in the CMS which impacted the results.
He didn't mention anything to me about any differences... AFAIK they are the same panel. I didn't question his reasons for going with settings and haven't compared them to any other settings either. I would definitely agree the skin tones are very realistic... see attached post-cal crappy phone pics.

The T2 pics are 4k UHD... the last pic is from "A Dog's Purpose" 1080p... probably the best 1080p disc I've seen. If I didn't know I'd have thought it was 4k. It looked that good.
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post #27371 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 08:01 AM
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Since this thread is slowing down some as of recent, I thought I would ask the following question.

I recently pre-ordered Saving Private Ryan, Gladiator, Die Hard, Fury and Braveheart. All coming out approximately at the same time in May.

Looking forward to seeing these on the 65C7. The Paramount releases will also have DV as well. Some with Atmos as well.

It should be a spectacular show.

Who else is on board.
One I forgot to mention in addition to those movies and Forrest Gump...

... the Jurassic Park box set... all 4 movies also releases in May and has been pre-ordered.

Can't wait. Watching movies like this is why I bought the OLED.

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post #27372 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 08:49 AM
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I have seen and played GOW on both consoles. In all honesty If I had a PS4 Slim I wouldn't hesitate to play it on that exclusively and be happy. The difference between the 2 isn't that huge of a jump to justify the premium price for a PS4 pro IMO. If you have the funds go PS4 pro, yet again its not night and day difference on GOW. Also you only want to play a few exclusives you said, so factor that in your need for the pro. Either way, great game.. Best game this generation on either camp.
I have the PS4 PRO and I checked playing with max resolotion mode or performance mode. In my opinion, there is a noticeable difference between both modes in the C7. In Max resolution, GOW is the most striking, incredible game and graphics that I have ever seen. It is just breathtaking.
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post #27373 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 09:13 AM
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Trumotion off will give proper motion with 24fps cadence. DJ 0 will incorporate 3:2 pulldown. DJ 1-10 will start adding interpolated frames. (Frames in between the real frames).

OLED response time is so fast that 24 fps motion will look "juddery" especially on pans. DJ will smooth it out, but will add artifacts.
is 3:2 a bad thing? just wondering if there was any way to smooth it just a bit without getting SOE.
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post #27374 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by robnalex View Post
They don't make 'em like they used to! Maybe it's just a fluke, but having a TV die after only 4 months and about 250 hours is discouraging. That 14-year-old plasma is still going strong! All it ever needed was a new power supply at 12 years.
I bought the TCL 55P605 ($599) around Black Friday from BB. It's one of the top rated bargain models and had great reviews not only for video but for gaming as well. I bought it for the bedroom... and it worked great the first couple months. Then late January I would power it on to sound with a black screen. Unplugging it fixed this the first few times it happened... then about 2 weeks later unplugging it no longer worked. Screen was dead... which I think is similar to what you said happened to your OLED. I'd say this TCL had less than 100 hours on it when it died.

You get what you pay for... in both build quality and PQ. My brother has one... and the light bleed in all 4 corners is atrocious.

Anyway, I took it back... swapped it for the OLED... and moved the 7 year old living room plasma to the bedroom. No regrets. I got really lucky being an elite plus member at BB... They had a holiday return period from mid November till mid January... but elite plus got me an extra 3 weeks on top of that... thru Feb 13th. The TV died Feb 7th. Another week and I'd have been dealing with a repairman and been stuck with it.

Good luck getting yours back.

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post #27375 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 09:49 AM
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Cnet.com C8 vs C7 Highlight

While Cnet makes the following statement about the C8:

"The LG C8 is the best performing TV we've tested to date."

They also make the following statement about the C7:

"Anybody who bought a 2017 OLED TV can rest assured that the newest version isn't significantly better (and has an uglier stand). For anybody who wants to save money by getting a 2017 OLED TV on closeout now, rather than waiting until this fall for the C8 to drop in price, consider this review a green light."

https://www.cnet.com/products/lg-oled65c8pua/review/

SCG
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post #27376 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SoCalGuy-99 View Post
While Cnet makes the following statement about the C8:

"The LG C8 is the best performing TV we've tested to date."

They also make the following statement about the C7:

"Anybody who bought a 2017 OLED TV can rest assured that the newest version isn't significantly better (and has an uglier stand). For anybody who wants to save money by getting a 2017 OLED TV on closeout now, rather than waiting until this fall for the C8 to drop in price, consider this review a green light."

https://www.cnet.com/products/lg-oled65c8pua/review/
David K said the same thing last year when the B7/C7 came out about buying a B6/C6. The good news is that the C8 pricing is at a level that the C7/B7 didn't reach until June.
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post #27377 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by kaijusurf View Post
I just purchased an open box 55" C7P from Best Buy. The stand was not included, so I'm trying to hunt down an OEM replacement. Are the stands for the 65" and 55" models the same and/or interchangeable?
Purchase this from Best Buy for MUCH less..

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-soun...?skuId=5846401

It's designed to replace the existing stand so you can mount the SJ8 soundbar to it. It should work on it's own as a stand.

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post #27378 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 11:19 AM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalGuy-99 View Post
While Cnet makes the following statement about the C8:

"The LG C8 is the best performing TV we've tested to date."

They also make the following statement about the C7:

"Anybody who bought a 2017 OLED TV can rest assured that the newest version isn't significantly better (and has an uglier stand). For anybody who wants to save money by getting a 2017 OLED TV on closeout now, rather than waiting until this fall for the C8 to drop in price, consider this review a green light."

https://www.cnet.com/products/lg-oled65c8pua/review/
Perhaps video Nirvana has been achieved.
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post #27379 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 11:20 AM
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Hey all,

Im new here and just bought an LG C7V 55inch model this weekend

This is what the banding looks like (see attached)

Ive maybe only had the TV on for about 15 hours by this point. Is this a particularly bad panel and worth returning for another? Also, is it likely that this will get better? I was able to notice it slightly in Westworld on Sky last night but thats it.

Cheers
Don't worry so much about how banding looks on slides no matter how fun it is. If anything, banding gets worse in motion but what looks like a good screen on slides might actually be horrible with content and vice versa.

I returned my first B7 for terrible visible banding in content and my replacement was night and day better. I can see some bands on slides but nothing in content.

If you want to see what content can bring it out, here is the torture test. Proceed at your own risk, these represent the worst of the worst:
  • Marco Polo S1E3 14-16 minutes
  • Blade Runner 2049 - The whole movie
  • Arrival 4:00 18:48 26:40 1:45:25
  • The Martian 1:26
  • Prometheus 34:11
  • Passengers 41:35
  • Interstellar 1:48
  • Zero Dark Thirty 5 minute raid scene starting at 2:00:00
  • Star Trek Beyond 0:11:30 - 0:12:30
  • Oblivion 50:00
  • The OA S01E01 10:30
  • Mindhunters S01E08 47:15
  • Hold input button on remote, lines on the loading screen
  • Xbox Settings Menu
  • Amazon Loading screen
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post #27380 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by whforde View Post
Don't worry so much about how banding looks on slides no matter how fun it is. If anything, banding gets worse in motion but what looks like a good screen on slides might actually be horrible with content and vice versa.

I returned my first B7 for terrible visible banding in content and my replacement was night and day better. I can see some bands on slides but nothing in content.

If you want to see what content can bring it out, here is the torture test. Proceed at your own risk, these represent the worst of the worst:
  • Arrival 4:00 18:48 26:40 1:45:25
  • The Martian 1:26
  • Interstellar 1:48
  • The OA S01E01 10:30
  • Mindhunters S01E08 47:15
  • Xbox Settings Menu
  • Amazon Loading screen
Yeah I feel like I hit the panel lotto with my 65" B7. I've had it about 3 months and it has 500 hours on it. From the beginning I've seen very faint banding on various YouTube slide videos. All uniform left to right with no bands sticking out more than any others. Nothing seen/noticed in content.

Of the list I quoted... nothing on the XB1X settings screen or Amazon screen. I had my panel calibrated by Chad B last week... and he ran a bunch of gray slides when he started and neither of us saw anything. He even told me that the banding I saw may have just been the YouTube video.

Post calibration I ran the OA and Mindhunters scenes from Netflix... and I saw very faint banding. Only because I knew it was there and had to pause the TV and stare at it to see it in what I considered to be very craptastic dark gray grainy backgrounds. In short had I not actually been looking for banding I'd have chalked it up to being part of a horrible looking background scene. Fact is 99.9% of what I watch on my OLED looks nothing like those 2 scenes... so if that's what it takes for me to see banding (while staring at a paused screen) I'm fine with it.

I own Arrival, Martian and Interstellar in 4K UHD but haven't gotten around to watching them yet. Not worried about it either way.

The TV is just gorgeous.

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post #27381 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 11:52 AM
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For Xbox One X and PS4 Pro HDR titles on the C7 are you guys running Dynamic Contrast on Low or OFF??
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Low is the best overall settings that I've seen, Bumps the brightness without impacting detail. Medium and above absolutely crushes details.
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There is a loss in fine detail in highlights when using DC at all during games because the highlights blow out slightly. This is unavoidable and the detail loss is stronger with higher levels applied but how much it bothers you or how much you notice or are willing to put up with is very much a personal preference.
So I couldn't remember how Chad B had set this up during calibration (or if I had changed it in the interim), so I played around with it last night with Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 Pro. Unsurprisingly, DC Low made the image substantially brighter.

Surprisingly, though, turning DC off not only darkened the image, but it also blew out the highlights. DC Low was brighter *and* retained much more detail. I tested this several times by looking at the sun on a cloudy day. The sun totally swamped the wispy clouds next to it with DC off, while they were much better defined on DC Low.

This seems pretty counter-intuitive. Is it a firmware thing, perhaps? I'm still on US 04.70.06 as I wait for an update that fixes things without breaking others (my set keeps prompting me to upgrade to 04.70.36, but I thought we were past that by now?).
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post #27382 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Justin Fletcher View Post
So I couldn't remember how Chad B had set this up during calibration (or if I had changed it in the interim), so I went and played around with it last night with Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 Pro. Unsurprisingly, DC Low made the image substantially brighter.

Surprisingly, though, turning DC off not only darkened the image, but it also blew out the highlights. DC Low was brighter *and* retained much more detail. I tested this several times but looking at the sun on a cloudy day. The sun totally swamped the wispy clouds next to it on DC off, while they were much better defined on DC Low.

This seems pretty counter-intuitive. Is it a firmware thing, perhaps? I'm still on US 04.70.06 as I wait for an update that fixes things without breaking others (my set keeps prompting me to upgrade to 04.70.36, but I thought we were past that by now?).
I'm sure some of it is that LG makes its menu system incomprehensible. I'll state again that DC on LOW for HDR gaming is the only way I can play, as you seem to have noticed!
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So Im trying to go from a 55B6 to 65B/C7 inch Oled. Is 10 inches that much of a difference? Also i've seen the b7 price for the 65 and Im wondering if it might still go a little more down in price or is this it? Since its on its close out? I don't want to miss my chance on purchasing it.
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Originally Posted by Geo JAB View Post
So Im trying to go from a 55B6 to 65B/C7 inch Oled. Is 10 inches that much of a difference? Also i've seen the b7 price for the 65 and Im wondering if it might still go a little more down in price or is this it? Since its on its close out? I don't want to miss my chance on purchasing it.
Nobody here knows how things will end up with the 17 models until the last one is sold. That would call for a crystal ball, or what is far more likely, a WAG! Don't forget, when the last one is sold, you're out of luck!

As for 65 being better than 55, it certainly is, IMO.
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post #27385 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Fletcher View Post
So I couldn't remember how Chad B had set this up during calibration (or if I had changed it in the interim), so I played around with it last night with Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 Pro. Unsurprisingly, DC Low made the image substantially brighter.

Surprisingly, though, turning DC off not only darkened the image, but it also blew out the highlights. DC Low was brighter *and* retained much more detail. I tested this several times by looking at the sun on a cloudy day. The sun totally swamped the wispy clouds next to it with DC off, while they were much better defined on DC Low.

This seems pretty counter-intuitive. Is it a firmware thing, perhaps? I'm still on US 04.70.06 as I wait for an update that fixes things without breaking others (my set keeps prompting me to upgrade to 04.70.36, but I thought we were past that by now?).
DC Low means that LG uses active metadata generation for HDR content. It should be left to low for everything and not just games.
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post #27386 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 12:33 PM
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I'm sure some of it is that LG makes its menu system incomprehensible. I'll state again that DC on LOW for HDR gaming is the only way I can play, as you seem to have noticed!
Mine is also on Low on my Chad B calibrated panel.

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DC Low means that LG uses active metadata generation for HDR content. It should be left to low for everything and not just games.
It is.



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Originally Posted by Geo JAB View Post
So Im trying to go from a 55B6 to 65B/C7 inch Oled. Is 10 inches that much of a difference? Also i've seen the b7 price for the 65 and Im wondering if it might still go a little more down in price or is this it? Since its on its close out? I don't want to miss my chance on purchasing it.
Attached was the only visual comparison I needed... you know BB does this on purpose.

It literally took about 4 seconds for the girlfriend to say "get the 65" and you know what they say... happy wife happy life.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

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ID:	2397880  
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LG B7A OLED 65” / LG SJ9 Atmos Sound Bar / LG UP970 BR Player / Apple TV 4K
i7 7700k 11GB 1080 Ti 32GB Ram 2x 1TB 960 Evo / XBox One X / Nintendo Switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo JAB View Post
So Im trying to go from a 55B6 to 65B/C7 inch Oled. Is 10 inches that much of a difference? Also i've seen the b7 price for the 65 and Im wondering if it might still go a little more down in price or is this it? Since its on its close out? I don't want to miss my chance on purchasing it.
It's a bit like playing the lottery - prices will go down and down, but so will supply, so your risk of missing out on the 2017s at low prices increases as you wait.

As for the 55 vs. 65, I went from a 60" plasma to the 65" OLED and find it noticeably bigger.

Here's a visual comparison - with more details at the link underneath:

55 to 65 Comparison at DisplayWars

Preamp/Amps: Anthem AVM60, Emotiva XPA-2, XPA-5, A-300
Speakers: (7.1.2): Klipsch Reference Premiere / Power Sound Audio S3000i sub
Video: LG OLED65B7A, Oppo UDP-203, Roku Premiere+, Nvidia Shield TV
Room: GIK Acoustics treatments
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Post calibration I ran the OA and Mindhunters scenes from Netflix... and I saw very faint banding.
And, to be fair, those are absolutely the worst of the worst.

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Only because I knew it was there and had to pause the TV and stare at it to see it....
Isn't that part of your normal watching habits

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Fact is 99.9% of what I watch on my OLED looks nothing like those 2 scenes...
I think this is the most important point[/QUOTE]

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The TV is just gorgeous.
Agreed.
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post #27389 of 36523 Old 05-01-2018, 12:43 PM
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Attached was the only visual comparison I needed... you know BB does this on purpose.

It literally took about 4 seconds for the girlfriend to say "get the 65" and you know what they say... happy wife happy life.
LOL and you won't regret it. It's the best electronics purchase I've made in the last 15 years!
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Speakers: (7.1.2): Klipsch Reference Premiere / Power Sound Audio S3000i sub
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And, to be fair, those are absolutely the worst of the worst.



Isn't that part of your normal watching habits



I think this is the most important point



Agreed.

Yeah it's nothing I'm worried about. I've got a good panel. Better than most I would say without question.

As for staring at the screen to see the banding... all I was saying is I really had to go out of my way... a fishing expedition if you will... to notice the banding.


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LOL and you won't regret it. It's the best electronics purchase I've made in the last 15 years!
Agreed!


LG B7A OLED 65” / LG SJ9 Atmos Sound Bar / LG UP970 BR Player / Apple TV 4K
i7 7700k 11GB 1080 Ti 32GB Ram 2x 1TB 960 Evo / XBox One X / Nintendo Switch
Movie collection: https://www.blu-ray.com/community/co...3&categoryid=7

Last edited by TravisPNW; 05-01-2018 at 01:03 PM. Reason: ... added quote
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