2017 LG C7-B7 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 928 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27811 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TravisPNW View Post
But you can save all that money on calibration!!!
Haha so true!

New 2018 SDR Calibration:

Brightness: 63 (74 in bright room)
TV: ON (OFF for inky blacks)

Done!
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post #27812 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 10:51 AM
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Hey guys, been a while since I logged into AVS (still reading though!) I have a chance to get a new in box B7 or C7 for a really good price. I currently have a Samsung F5300 plasma (which replaced my VT50, which died via flying sippy cup). During the day I miss the anti glare filter, but under non bright lighting it really is a quality set. HD gaming looks just as good as most pics I see of 4K HDR gaming, although I don't really have a display that can show me the differences. If I go into a Best Buy and see their running demo screens of 4K HDR gaming, that never really wows me either.

So I would ask, (and I know this debate has probably been had in other threads), is it worth the upgrade? I have a PS4 PRO and about 7 4K movies. But I hesitate that I will see that much improvement. Is the difference when I play something like Horizon or God of War in HDR really that noticeable? Also, all this talk of banding spooks me too. Isn't black level performance supposed to be a selling point? I don't want to be disappointed if I throw on The Dark Knight or something to check out those blacks and see nothing but banding. Also how does regular 1080P content look on these? Is it something like how SD content always looks better on an SD set. Or will I even notice? I'd love to hear from plasma owners who upgraded who watch movies and play games.

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post #27813 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 11:18 AM
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Sonoftumble,

In your settings you have SDR and HDR using Picture Mode Technicolor Expert. On my B7A Technicolor Expert has (User) as part of the title. I have read in earlier parts of this thread that Cinema has two modes, Cinema and Cinema (User), and they are different. Is there a Technicolor Expert without (User) affixed or did you just not include it in your typing?

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post #27814 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 11:25 AM
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^^^^ The (user) notation that is added after a picture mode name such as Technicolor or Cinema occurs when you make some change to the settings for that picture mode.
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post #27815 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by patoberli View Post
Thanks for your input.
Let me try to explain that a little better. Let's take a scene with a face, which is halfway shadowed. It's a dark shadow. On the Sony I can make out facial features in that shadow, while on the LG it's just black and I don't see any features. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to be, but I don't really prefer it
I had a similar problem to yourself when I first got my B7. I play all my movies from a hard drive connected to a PC and passed through an AVR to the TV. With my previous TV, an LED Sony, shadow detail was good but when I hooked up the OLED the shadow detail disappeared into black. I tried changing Black Level (found in the Picture Options section of the settings) to High from Low but didn't like the result. I then went into the Intel Graphic Properties section of my PC and changed the Gamma setting there from the default 1 to 1.2.
Oddly, in the Intel settings increasing the Gamma value lightens the picture instead of the expected darkening.
Anyway that solved the problem and now I see all the shadow detail without the picture ever being washed out.

So I am just wondering if you have a Gamma problem. Have you tried a lower Gamma setting ?
Are you using any device that allows you to alter the Gamma being fed to the TV ?
Just a thought but worth looking at. You should see the shadow detail that you are missing and I don't think hiking up the OLED light or the brightness is the way to go. I feel you need to alter the Gamma.
Good luck and be reassured that the TV should not be like it is and I believe you will solve it with some experimentation.

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post #27816 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post
Haha so true!

New 2018 SDR Calibration:

Brightness: 63 (74 in bright room)
TV: ON (OFF for inky blacks)

Done!
Now you start to get a little mean. In any case I've tuned it back down to 50.
You happen to have an Xbox One? Just curious how your settings would be, if you run the calibration tool on the xbox.
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post #27817 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by patoberli View Post
Now you start to get a little mean. In any case I've tuned it back down to 50.
You happen to have an Xbox One? Just curious how your settings would be, if you run the calibration tool on the xbox.
Oh it’s all in good fun. You know we’ll help you here.

I’ll have to check my Xbox One X. I never calibrated for the system itself beyond a few no-brainer adjustments.
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post #27818 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by patoberli View Post
Now you start to get a little mean. In any case I've tuned it back down to 50.

You happen to have an Xbox One? Just curious how your settings would be, if you run the calibration tool on the xbox.


I have an Xbox one x and a B7A. If you want I can give you screenshots of my settings via PM and see if they work for you at all.

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post #27819 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cmdrdredd View Post
I have an Xbox one x and a B7A. If you want I can give you screenshots of my settings via PM and see if they work for you at all.
Just curious, if you set your Xbox to 1080p (that's the resolution I have to use atm) with limited color space (not RGB) and then open the calibration screen in the same menu, what do you have to set the Brightness to still see the closed eye on the third or so screen?
Just curious
I do send my signal through an AVR, but all processing is turned off.
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post #27820 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post
Hey guys, been a while since I logged into AVS (still reading though!) I have a chance to get a new in box B7 or C7 for a really good price. I currently have a Samsung F5300 plasma (which replaced my VT50, which died via flying sippy cup). During the day I miss the anti glare filter, but under non bright lighting it really is a quality set. HD gaming looks just as good as most pics I see of 4K HDR gaming, although I don't really have a display that can show me the differences. If I go into a Best Buy and see their running demo screens of 4K HDR gaming, that never really wows me either.

So I would ask, (and I know this debate has probably been had in other threads), is it worth the upgrade? I have a PS4 PRO and about 7 4K movies. But I hesitate that I will see that much improvement. Is the difference when I play something like Horizon or God of War in HDR really that noticeable? Also, all this talk of banding spooks me too. Isn't black level performance supposed to be a selling point? I don't want to be disappointed if I throw on The Dark Knight or something to check out those blacks and see nothing but banding. Also how does regular 1080P content look on these? Is it something like how SD content always looks better on an SD set. Or will I even notice? I'd love to hear from plasma owners who upgraded who watch movies and play games.
I can take this one.

I had a panny ST30 before this TV. The picture is very noticeably better especially while watching 4k content. I would say SD quality content looks better on my ST30. On the oled, Blu-ray content looks noticeably better and 4k content will sometimes make me say "Wow" outloud during an especially good scene. Since you mentioned the dark knight, this was one of my "Wow" moments... the escort chase scene with Dent was truly amazing in 4k on this set. HDR is very noticeable in 4k movies and gaming. It really makes outdoor scenes look a lot better with the natural sunlight looking so much better.

That said, there are possible drawbacks. Near black scenes do look worse if you have visible banding. Some TVs are worse than others and it also depends on the environment and the person watching it (my wife claims nothing is wrong with our TV but I'm in the process of getting LG to replace it due to banding). If you are okay with dealing with returning the TV if the banding bothers you then jump on it no question. If that sounds like too much of a hassle, wait a few years for them to get better about banding.

One thing I would do is age the panel about 100 hours with slides or what not and then try watching Bladerunner 2049. If you don't notice anything in regards to banding in this movie, then you have a keeper (or you aren't sensitive enough towards banding for it to really matter). If you see banding and it bothers you, return that sucker. In my mind, visible banding is a deal breaker and not something we should put up with.
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post #27821 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 01:04 PM
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post #27822 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ruppgu View Post
I can take this one.

I had a panny ST30 before this TV. The picture is very noticeably better especially while watching 4k content. I would say SD quality content looks better on my ST30. On the oled, Blu-ray content looks noticeably better and 4k content will sometimes make me say "Wow" outloud during an especially good scene. Since you mentioned the dark knight, this was one of my "Wow" moments... the escort chase scene with Dent was truly amazing in 4k on this set. HDR is very noticeable in 4k movies and gaming. It really makes outdoor scenes look a lot better with the natural sunlight looking so much better.

That said, there are possible drawbacks. Near black scenes do look worse if you have visible banding. Some TVs are worse than others and it also depends on the environment and the person watching it (my wife claims nothing is wrong with our TV but I'm in the process of getting LG to replace it due to banding). If you are okay with dealing with returning the TV if the banding bothers you then jump on it no question. If that sounds like too much of a hassle, wait a few years for them to get better about banding.

One thing I would do is age the panel about 100 hours with slides or what not and then try watching Bladerunner 2049. If you don't notice anything in regards to banding in this movie, then you have a keeper (or you aren't sensitive enough towards banding for it to really matter). If you see banding and it bothers you, return that sucker. In my mind, visible banding is a deal breaker and not something we should put up with.
Thanks for the response. I watch very little SD content anymore, but it sounds like 1080P will look just as good or better, so that's a plus. Good to hear that there should be a few WOW moments coming. When I look at those comparison displays at Best Buy, it seriously looks like they have standard and HD rather than HD and 4K going. I can look at their HD side and honestly say that my HD on my plasma looks much better. I assume they gimp the hell out of those demos.

Been brushing up on the banding discussions. It sounds like I should let it do an "auto compensation cycle" and then put some hours on it before I throw on those 5% slides that I'm seeing everywhere. This is for dark room viewing as well, so I don't want something that will be noticeable. But I won't go hunting for issues either.

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post #27823 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by patoberli View Post
Just curious, if you set your Xbox to 1080p (that's the resolution I have to use atm) with limited color space (not RGB) and then open the calibration screen in the same menu, what do you have to set the Brightness to still see the closed eye on the third or so screen?

Just curious

I do send my signal through an AVR, but all processing is turned off.


Remember there is an black level setting on the tv. If it’s mismatched then you will have either a washed out picture or crushed blacks.

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post #27824 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post
Been brushing up on the banding discussions. It sounds like I should let it do an "auto compensation cycle" and then put some hours on it before I throw on those 5% slides that I'm seeing everywhere. This is for dark room viewing as well, so I don't want something that will be noticeable. But I won't go hunting for issues either.
The banding on my TV seems to have gotten to the point of being noticeable after several hundred hours, but only for test slides and static screens with dark grays (like menus). In real-world content, I don't see any issues. People fret over this stuff, but OLED still blows the doors off my old plasma and every TV I've seen. It's not like there are any "perfect" consumer TVs, and life's too short to sit around being upset over test patterns. Get your settings dialed in, put on some 4K content, sit back, and be amazed
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post #27825 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cmdrdredd View Post
Remember there is an black level setting on the tv. If it’s mismatched then you will have either a washed out picture or crushed blacks.
Oh look at that, this is the setting which makes the big difference
Time to read about what this setting does... on High it looks correct now, but first I have to figure out what it is for exactly

[edit]
Thanks a lot!
I figured out what it is about and yes, that was the issue. I had to change it to high, because I'm using full RGB/Deep Colour sources
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post #27826 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 01:57 PM
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I have seen in this thread and the other LG firmware thread that we cant install US or KR firmware on a European TVs. Is this true in all cases? A little off topic but I am trying to find a way to get access to the US content store from a European TV. I only want to access one app, VUDU, because I have a movie collection on it, but its not available on the European store and the European B7 does not allow the TV to be reset to the US (you can only select European countries). Just thought I'd ask here if it was possible at all? Maybe some secret code to unlock all regions/store would be handy
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post #27827 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post
Thanks for the response. I watch very little SD content anymore, but it sounds like 1080P will look just as good or better, so that's a plus. Good to hear that there should be a few WOW moments coming. When I look at those comparison displays at Best Buy, it seriously looks like they have standard and HD rather than HD and 4K going. I can look at their HD side and honestly say that my HD on my plasma looks much better. I assume they gimp the hell out of those demos.

Been brushing up on the banding discussions. It sounds like I should let it do an "auto compensation cycle" and then put some hours on it before I throw on those 5% slides that I'm seeing everywhere. This is for dark room viewing as well, so I don't want something that will be noticeable. But I won't go hunting for issues either.
It depends on the type of person you are. If you are the type that may "look for" bands while watching content, then I would advise against viewing a 5% slide on your TV if possible. Instead, watch content that is prone to having banding and see if YOU see it. If you know where your bands are, it's much easier to see the bands and then you may get into a situation where you are waiting for the bands to appear. I know when I get my replacement panel, I think I'm going to refuse looking at a 5% slide (which is what I did with my first one... I just have a somewhat bad set and it's very noticeable in content) when I get my new panel.

All the 2017 TVs have banding. The question is how easy is it to see in real world content and how easily you can see it in your viewing environment.

What you said is about right though. When you first get it... it will be the worst it will be. After the first comp cycle at 3 hours it will improve a lot. Then it will slowly improve up to 100-200 hours. Once you make it that far it won't really get any better. I would advise against a manual comp cycle if you do see banding. It will often make the bands stick out more.
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post #27828 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 02:59 PM
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Got the B7A delivered the other night. Wow! What a picture!

I still need to run it for 100 hours, but I settled on custom Technicolor Expert settings for the time being.

The screen does look small compared to my projector, but PQ is a nice upgrade.

No massive blooming/clouding like the Sony X900E either. This is a keeper, especially since I just got my price match approved. Nothing even comes close to the price/quality paid.

In no way will I ever spend $3,500 on a 65" tv, so I'm glad I'm able to experience OLED now. It's not worth $3,500, that's for sure, but nothing beats it so far.
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post #27829 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 03:54 PM
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Sorry if this has been addressed already but after 5 months of owning a B7A, the wifi streaming has slowed down considerably. i can't stream in 4k anymore and get constant buffering. wifi on all my other devices is fine (over 100MPS). Any idea what is causing this?
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post #27830 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 04:06 PM
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Just got my PS4 pro yesterday been playing around a bit. The games looks like a blurry mess I can't stand it but once I enabled TruMotion it truly makes it look like a PC gaming running at 60-120fps.

Amazing TV I don't think it would look as good on a LED with a slow responce time. Moving the camera at half speed it looks butter smooth if I move it too fast it'll get blurry.
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post #27831 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 04:10 PM
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Sorry if this has been addressed already but after 5 months of owning a B7A, the wifi streaming has slowed down considerably. i can't stream in 4k anymore and get constant buffering. wifi on all my other devices is fine (over 100MPS). Any idea what is causing this?
I would would take photos of the settings and reset the TV. Either that or the reset router. Somethings definitely not right.

I would also Google your ISP for throttling. I've read about certain ISP's throttling heavy data users. I use upwards of 2 terabytes a month just from streaming.

I know my last ISP Frontier (formerly Verizon Fios) not long ago installed a 300gb limit soft cap before sending notices to the customers. My current Spectrum cable ISP doesn't care as far as I know.

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post #27832 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 04:16 PM
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DirectTV connected to C7

Does anyone have their LG OLED connected directly to a DirecTV C-41? If so, how long does it take for a picture to appear when you turn on the OLED and the C-41?

Until recently it took 4-5 seconds for picture to appear after turning on my C7 and C-41 (connected to HR44). About a week ago things changed and it's now taking 20-25 seconds (sometimes longer) for a picture to appear after turning on. I get a black screen for that 20-25 seconds. I think the issue started up about a week ago, which coincided with a software update for the HR44 and C-41 (which included the horrific new GUI but don't think that has anything do with it). I have ruled out the HDMI cable and house wiring and have ruled out the particular C-41 (by trying a different one from another TV in its place). I think there is some issue going on with the HDCP handshake between the C-41 and HR44 and LG OLED. Just don't know if the issue is being introduced by the DTV software or a hardware issue with the LG C7 (hoping for it being a DTV software issue). Curious if others are experiencing this.

Just a follow up on this question I posted yesterday. I have narrowed it down to the problem lying with the C-41 and suspect it's a DirecTV software issue or how the C-41 is communicating with the HR44, which would be a software related issue as well. I concluded this by pulling my HR44 from another location and dropped it in place where the C-41 is located, connected it to the LG OLED C7 and upon turning on the HR44 and LG, the picture appears instantaneously...like 1-2 seconds. Tested it multiple times from off position of both TV and HR44. So, looks like a DirecTV issue to me that is isolated to the client mini. Now to work on a solution. It may be time to pull the trigger on a HR54 and C-61K, and hope that combo works better. Or, maybe leave the HR44 connected to the LG OLED but the problem is no ethernet connection where that is located and how to get the whole home system connected to internet.
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post #27833 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 04:33 PM
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That said, there are possible drawbacks. Near black scenes do look worse if you have visible banding. Some TVs are worse than others and it also depends on the environment and the person watching it (my wife claims nothing is wrong with our TV but I'm in the process of getting LG to replace it due to banding). If you are okay with dealing with returning the TV if the banding bothers you then jump on it no question. If that sounds like too much of a hassle, wait a few years for them to get better about banding.

One thing I would do is age the panel about 100 hours with slides or what not and then try watching Bladerunner 2049. If you don't notice anything in regards to banding in this movie, then you have a keeper (or you aren't sensitive enough towards banding for it to really matter). If you see banding and it bothers you, return that sucker. In my mind, visible banding is a deal breaker and not something we should put up with.
How long have you had your set, and how is the process of getting a replacement from LG going?

I've only had my B7A a week, and the banding is the only thing that has me concerned. Out of the box it was really bad - really noticable during the scenes in The OA, Marco Polo, and even a dark scene in Lost in Space. I know two of those are worst case examples, but I'm concerned about how it may fail to improve, and about how difficult it may be to get a replacement.
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post #27834 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 05:56 PM
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Can someone tell me how to see what signal of Hz my C7 is receiving from an input?

I see the 16:9 1080p PCM. It's my HTPC going thru my Denon 4300 I would like to see if the TV is receiving 30hz or 60hz.

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post #27835 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post
Thanks for the response. I watch very little SD content anymore, but it sounds like 1080P will look just as good or better, so that's a plus. Good to hear that there should be a few WOW moments coming. When I look at those comparison displays at Best Buy, it seriously looks like they have standard and HD rather than HD and 4K going. I can look at their HD side and honestly say that my HD on my plasma looks much better. I assume they gimp the hell out of those demos.

Been brushing up on the banding discussions. It sounds like I should let it do an "auto compensation cycle" and then put some hours on it before I throw on those 5% slides that I'm seeing everywhere. This is for dark room viewing as well, so I don't want something that will be noticeable. But I won't go hunting for issues either.
Store demos are going to almost always be junk since the sets in their store/torch modes and have sharpness jacked up and all that other crap that kills an image.

I got my first oled, a 65" c8, a few weeks ago and the oled image is pretty great. Unfortunately, I had to send it back since there was a big blob in the upper left corner in dark scenes and it was a clear defect. Got my replacement on Tuesday and no blob so that's good.

As for as banding, it is indeed annoying and on my first c8 it seemed to get worse each auto comp cycle and I returned it with around 190 hours. On my current c8, I am thinking I am seeing the same thing with it getting worse yet I am at around 40 hours so we shall see if anything changes as I get into the triple digit hours total. What really sucks is yesterday the banding was pretty mild to the point I'd have been fine if it never got better yet an auto comp cycle overnight and today it's more visible. Pretty ridiculous that something built into the tv like that can make an issue worse.

The one bright side with banding is that at least from my experience, it's not super common and isn't a guarantee just because a scene is a night/dim scene. The content has to be encoded at a specific video level for it to show up and the level is usually an elevated black/hazy/low contrast look level.

My recommendation with oled right now is mixed. On one hand the image is amazing sans the times banding shows up yet on the other, the fact banding exists and one has to rely on such a panel lottery is pretty annoying and I think it may just be better to wait to see if this issue is ever actually corrected. It probably won't be unless another company starts to make panels as LG has no real incentive to improve it if people have no other option.
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post #27836 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by gordojones88 View Post
Can someone tell me how to see what signal of Hz my C7 is receiving from an input?

I see the 16:9 1080p PCM. It's my HTPC going thru my Denon 4300 I would like to see if the TV is receiving 30hz or 60hz.


FYI, you can use the Denon app on your smart phone to view what video/audio signals it is receiving and what it is sending to the TV.
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post #27837 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 07:12 PM
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Now that Bias lighting its doing wonders with my oled(goodbye eye strain!!!) should l calibrate to a more proper gamma of PLG2.2 to compensate the more "bright" room or should l stick with my bt1886 calibration???

as a side note, a proper calibrated gamma of 2.2 do wonders on this oleds, and they look more similar to what HDR shows.
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post #27838 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gordojones88 View Post
Can someone tell me how to see what signal of Hz my C7 is receiving from an input?
There is no way to do this via the C7 itself. You may be able to run the signal through another device like a receiver or an Oppo player and get more information from there.
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post #27839 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 07:42 PM
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I have a strange observation slightly off topic. I am following the new TCL LED TV thread. There are posts from people basically saying shipping and customer service or TV arrived broke so they ended up getting an LG OLED. Now as good a value TCL may be if you can afford an OLED why would you be going for a budget LED from TCL? These two displays aren't in the same realm. Does that make any sense?

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post #27840 of 36889 Old 05-11-2018, 07:58 PM
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There is no way to do this via the C7 itself.
Well you tell LG that I said that is just so dumb.

B&W 683S2 / B&W HTM61S2 / B&W 686S2x4
LG OLED65C7 / Denon 4300 / Monolith 3x200
SVS PB16 / Xbox One X / Oppo 203

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