2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 232 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6931 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 07:18 AM
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See if this helps you. It is a little different from display manufacture to the other, but at least you can see what it is.
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post #6932 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airborn007 View Post
I'm getting all confused now since LG changed HDR Technicolor default settings from warm 2 to warm 1 now. Is warm 1 more accurate and that's why.

They messed up. Change it to Warm2
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post #6933 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk82 View Post
It's also a panel lottery. My old panel had no black crush at all then I got it replaced and the new one has a much darker low end and some black crush which I can only rectify by increasing brightness which induces black glow though.
Oh I will be playing the Lottery this week
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post #6934 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
They messed up. Change it to Warm2
Will do

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post #6935 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post
I usually don't say anything until I have had time to get some meters and a reference pattern generator on a display. This is my first OLED, it is a 55C8.
I will say that this display is moving around more than any type display I have worked with before in the early aging process. I am going to wait until it has 200 hours( and maybe more if it is still moving around ) on it before I dig hard in to it.
Some of the things you are chasing your tails about on the the black levels, just give it some time if your under 200 hours. I think it will take that long for stabilization and early aging.

(i.e. I started out at Brightness 56 when I started and it is already down to 52 in the first 100 hours.) These are not eyeball but on disks and meter.
I am not a PRO.
Agree that 56 seems about the sweet spot for average rooms. But gotta keep in mind even if it's at OLED Light 100 the brightness will never exceed more than about 152 cd in a full window. ABL will kick in. I often find myself raising it despite having settled on less previously. After about 300 hours the set seems to be a bit more broken in and the extreme perceived contrast seems to be taken down a bit. Or perhaps I just got used to it.
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post #6936 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
I also watch everything on my PC mostly.
But how do i increase brightness on my PC without raising black then?
Use MadVR, and within MadVR display settings tab, select custom output levels and use eg 1-255 instead of 0-255.
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post #6937 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by iSeries View Post
Use MadVR, and within MadVR display settings tab, select custom output levels and use eg 1-255 instead of 0-255.

thanks,yes i know, thats why i put videocard at full rgb and tv at blacklevel high.
MadVR etc is also set correct already.
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post #6938 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
thanks,yes i know, thats why i put videocard at full rgb and tv at blacklevel high.
MadVR etc is also set correct already.
Are you using custom output levels in MadVR (and not 0-255)? Using that to tweak the low end can often mean you don't need to mess with the brightness control on the TV at all.
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post #6939 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by iSeries View Post
Are you using custom output levels in MadVR (and not 0-255)? Using that to tweak the low end can often mean you don't need to mess with the brightness control on the TV at all.

yeah i also played with those and tv looks good without adjusting tv, but i also use Kodi ,appletv,firetv etc. and i can not adjust the levels like that in them like i can in MadVR.
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post #6940 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
yeah i also played with those and tv looks good without adjusting tv, but i also use Kodi ,appletv,firetv etc. and i can not adjust the levels like that in them like i can in MadVR.
For Kodi on Windows you can set it up to use an external player. But I strongly recommend Kodi DSplayer so you can use MadVR with the built-in Kodi player. But getting OT now lol.
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post #6941 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by iSeries View Post
For Kodi on Windows you can set it up to use an external player. But I strongly recommend Kodi DSplayer so you can use MadVR with the built-in Kodi player.

yes,i also experimented with that,but its not stable here. Madvr not working well with my live tv in combination with DVBlink.
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post #6942 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
I also watch everything on my PC mostly.
But how do i increase brightness on my PC without raising black then?
I have AMD Radeon settings. I have to play with that brightness slider there then?
Or whatelse are my options with my videocard? R9 290
I'm using the 'Levels' shader from this pack:
https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=170357

I modified it to basically adjust the levels only slightly. Like if everything below 19 is crushed I put 'define Levels_black_point' to -2 so that 19 becomes 17. This works pretty well and doesn't mess up the gradation.
Also I added this line so that it doesn't raise pure black: 'if (c0.r+c0.g+c0.b < 0.0001) return (-16,-16,-16,-16);'
I'm using a full RGB chain when using my PC, if you output limited range you will need different values.

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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
EDIT: o my god man!you fixed my tv! Thanks!
When i increase 2-point RGB with 12,then i can get 17 to slightly flash!
No more crushed blacks!
Also: The whole image seems to look better?
So the factory settings from my tv where just way off? Or how should i see this?
Are you sure you're not getting black glow with 2-point low +12? I can only raise mine a few clicks without ruining black.



Quote:
Originally Posted by iSeries View Post
Use MadVR, and within MadVR display settings tab, select custom output levels and use eg 1-255 instead of 0-255.

I wish it was that easy but doing this raises pure black on limited range content, that's why I have to use a shader. Unless you know a workaround?
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post #6943 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk82 View Post
I'm using the 'Levels' shader from this pack:
https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=170357

I modified it to basically adjust the levels only slightly. Like if everything below 19 is crushed I put 'define Levels_black_point' to -2 so that 19 becomes 17. This works pretty well and doesn't mess up the gradation.
Also I added this line so that it doesn't raise pure black: 'if (c0.r+c0.g+c0.b < 0.0001) return (-16,-16,-16,-16);'
I'm using a full RGB chain when using my PC, if you output limited range you will need different values.



Are you sure you're not getting black glow with 2-point low +12? I can only raise mine a few clicks without ruining black.






I wish it was that easy but doing this raises pure black on limited range content, that's why I have to use a shader. Unless you know a workaround?

Ok ,that sounds interesting with those Level shaders,i will check it out.
I'm absolutely sure that there is no glow or anything.
It just looks totally black on a 0% slide + now i can see 17 slightly.
And even if i put the 2-point low at 20, then the 16 bar is still black, but 17 too bright.

So this means the factory setting where just way off??
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post #6944 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepiecesfit View Post
Agree that 56 seems about the sweet spot for average rooms. But gotta keep in mind even if it's at OLED Light 100 the brightness will never exceed more than about 152 cd in a full window. ABL will kick in. I often find myself raising it despite having settled on less previously. After about 300 hours the set seems to be a bit more broken in and the extreme perceived contrast seems to be taken down a bit. Or perhaps I just got used to it.
Thanks for the info

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post #6945 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
So this means the factory setting where just way off??

I guess so. Like I said the two panels I had with my C8 looked very different when it comes to black levels. One crushed and the other almost too bright at the low end.


One thing to also take into account when looking at black clipping pattern is uniformity. It's not that uncommon that one side of the panel is darker than the other, so 17 and 18 might be visible on one side but crushed on the other.
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post #6946 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jk82 View Post
I guess so. Like I said the two panels I had with my C8 looked very different when it comes to black levels. One crushed and the other almost too bright at the low end.


One thing to also take into account when looking at black clipping pattern is uniformity. It's not that uncommon that one side of the panel is darker than the other, so 17 and 18 might be visible on one side but crushed on the other.

Good tip. And indeed the left side of the screen crushes 17, while on the right side its easy visible.
But now,when i want to go past +10, i start to see light bleed from the upper right corner and it spreads if i increase 2-point. So i cant up it further.
So what now? Also up the 20-point? combination of those 2?
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post #6947 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 11:22 AM
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I really wouldn't care too much about 17, as long as 18 is visible. Content is mastered so differently and often times I feel like near-black scenes look better with 17 crushed.
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post #6948 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 12:35 PM
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I really wouldn't care too much about 17, as long as 18 is visible. Content is mastered so differently and often times I feel like near-black scenes look better with 17 crushed.
Bingo! As it is lots of stuff on prime and Netflix look like grey blacks. I think I'm crushing just a bit and I'm ok with that.
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post #6949 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 12:41 PM
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I really wouldn't care too much about 17, as long as 18 is visible. Content is mastered so differently and often times I feel like near-black scenes look better with 17 crushed.

Ok,good to know.
Too bad the screens brightness is not uniform,but oh well,i'm already very happy that i've improved the picture and its thanks to you. So thanks again!
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post #6950 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 01:49 PM
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Quick question unrelated to current flow: Just how close should a tv be close to the opening of a fireplace? the edge of my tv sits 2.5 feet away from the edge of the pit, and about 3.5 to where the logs would be burning.

Is this really of any concern to me?

this question is completely unrelated to wall mounting above a fireplace
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post #6951 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 01:54 PM
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Has anyone here tried hooking up a Hard drive to this display and using the Internal Guide to set up a quasi DVR ? I just ran onto some European men who are doing just that in another forum. I think they are downloading app and doing most of it thru the app. It's like Free TIVO for over the air.

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post #6952 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 02:24 PM
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With madVR you guys may want to try madTweak depending on your PC video card and drag the popup box over to your C8 screen, tick the force 0-255 and reboot.

It's never a good idea to raise low BW anymore than 1, 2 or 3 points. There should be no big brightness jumps in the flashing bars or any tint other than gray. Use you brightness setting only to find the black sweet spot. Remember when you are using the flashing bars your room must have no light and your eyes must have time to adjust to the darkness.

ss
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post #6953 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 03:11 PM
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Well Big Ben.
I don't think that was all there was too it. It had something to do with a reset of some kind, I had never heard of this in my 50 some years in the buisness. If it was something for LG sets only I wanted to know.
Not sure about the 2018 series but for the 2017 series, some people were experiencing slow wireless speeds with quick start enabled. Disabling quick start seemed to help.
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post #6954 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 03:27 PM
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Not sure about the 2018 series but for the 2017 series, some people were experiencing slow wireless speeds with quick start enabled. Disabling quick start seemed to help.
Thanks

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post #6955 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 04:11 PM
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Nearly 100hrs on my break-in and I just found a post from D-Nice saying to use "slow" and not "fast"....
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Nearly 100hrs on my break-in and I just found a post from D-Nice saying to use "slow" and not "fast"....
Please explain and why ?

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post #6957 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 05:04 PM
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I thought I read somewhere on this forum that turning off Quick Start defeats the pixel refresh procedure (but I can't seem to find it now). Does anybody know if that is correct? And if it does, wouldn't that be a really good reason to keep the Quick Start Option set to on?
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post #6958 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 05:17 PM
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Please explain and why ?
You'll have to ask him, but he says it in post #2638 .

I'm talking about the break-in slides obviously.
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post #6959 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 05:57 PM
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I thought I read somewhere on this forum that turning off Quick Start defeats the pixel refresh procedure (but I can't seem to find it now). Does anybody know if that is correct? And if it does, wouldn't that be a really good reason to keep the Quick Start Option set to on?
Not true, unplugging the TV or cutting the power will defeat the pixel refresh function.
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post #6960 of 21054 Old 10-23-2018, 06:11 PM
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Interesting 24p judder test on the C8:

Try this clip played on the TV Youtube App with Real Cinema ON (default) and True Motion > Custom Dejudder 0 and Smooth 0. Then Change True Motion to off. With True Motion set to off its a lot more jumpy. This is enough to show it's actually doing something. RTINGS mentioned it and thought it was nonsense. But hey it makes it better!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtoxUohG5E
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