2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 233 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6961 of 20463 Old 10-23-2018, 07:02 PM
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Interesting 24p judder test on the C8:

Try this clip played on the TV Youtube App with Real Cinema ON (default) and True Motion > Custom Dejudder 0 and Smooth 0. Then Change True Motion to off. With True Motion set to off its a lot more jumpy. This is enough to show it's actually doing something. RTINGS mentioned it and thought it was nonsense. But hey it makes it better!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtoxUohG5E

Fun little exercise. When I play it at Custom: DJ 0, DB 0, it’s pretty choppy. Better if I change it to DJ 3, DB 10. Best is simply setting it to Smooth, and it completely smooths it out.

Thanks for sharing this.


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post #6962 of 20463 Old 10-23-2018, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by thepiecesfit View Post
Interesting 24p judder test on the C8:

Try this clip played on the TV Youtube App with Real Cinema ON (default) and True Motion > Custom Dejudder 0 and Smooth 0. Then Change True Motion to off. With True Motion set to off its a lot more jumpy. This is enough to show it's actually doing something. RTINGS mentioned it and thought it was nonsense. But hey it makes it better!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtoxUohG5E

Fun little exercise. When I play it at Custom: DJ 0, DB 0, it’s pretty choppy. Better if I change it to DJ 3, DB 10. Best is simply setting it to Smooth, and it completely smooths it out.

Thanks for sharing this.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes it won’t be smooth without True Motion. But the interesting thing is it’s choppy but consistent. When you Turn it off it stutters. Who would have thought setting both to 0 had an effect.
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post #6963 of 20463 Old 10-23-2018, 08:17 PM
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Interesting 24p judder test on the C8:

Try this clip played on the TV Youtube App with Real Cinema ON (default) and True Motion > Custom Dejudder 0 and Smooth 0. Then Change True Motion to off. With True Motion set to off its a lot more jumpy. This is enough to show it's actually doing something. RTINGS mentioned it and thought it was nonsense. But hey it makes it better!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtoxUohG5E

Fun little exercise. When I play it at Custom: DJ 0, DB 0, it’s pretty choppy. Better if I change it to DJ 3, DB 10. Best is simply setting it to Smooth, and it completely smooths it out.

Thanks for sharing this.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes it won’t be smooth without True Motion. But the interesting thing is it’s choppy but consistent. When you Turn it off it stutters. Who would have thought setting both to 0 had an effect.
Real cinema kicks in with both sliders at 0. These are the settings I've always used for 24p. Shouldnt need to use sliders. Real cinema on, sliders both at 0. No judder.
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post #6964 of 20463 Old 10-23-2018, 08:20 PM
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Ive seen numerous posts where people mention real cinema being greyed out. This is because they either have trumotion on, or off depending on the source. If you go to turn it off, and you cant, its because trumotion is turned on. If that makes sense. The opposite can also be true I believe.
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post #6965 of 20463 Old 10-23-2018, 08:25 PM
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I thought I read somewhere on this forum that turning off Quick Start defeats the pixel refresh procedure (but I can't seem to find it now). Does anybody know if that is correct? And if it does, wouldn't that be a really good reason to keep the Quick Start Option set to on?
I don't believe this is true. I did read here that it can cause some bugs during startup, but I forget what was mentioned.
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post #6966 of 20463 Old 10-23-2018, 10:13 PM
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Interesting 24p judder test on the C8:

Try this clip played on the TV Youtube App with Real Cinema ON (default) and True Motion > Custom Dejudder 0 and Smooth 0. Then Change True Motion to off. With True Motion set to off its a lot more jumpy. This is enough to show it's actually doing something. RTINGS mentioned it and thought it was nonsense. But hey it makes it better!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtoxUohG5E

Fun little exercise. When I play it at Custom: DJ 0, DB 0, it’s pretty choppy. Better if I change it to DJ 3, DB 10. Best is simply setting it to Smooth, and it completely smooths it out.

Thanks for sharing this.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes it won’t be smooth without True Motion. But the interesting thing is it’s choppy but consistent. When you Turn it off it stutters. Who would have thought setting both to 0 had an effect.
Real cinema kicks in with both sliders at 0. These are the settings I've always used for 24p. Shouldnt need to use sliders. Real cinema on, sliders both at 0. No judder.
Interesting. Is this documented anywhere in the LG materials?
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post #6967 of 20463 Old 10-23-2018, 11:19 PM
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I guess so. Like I said the two panels I had with my C8 looked very different when it comes to black levels. One crushed and the other almost too bright at the low end.
Sure you will get unit variation but the is a big swing.
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post #6968 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 05:35 AM
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You'll have to ask him, but he says it in post #2638 .

I'm talking about the break-in slides obviously.
Yes I knew you were. When using the slides there are two ways to use them. One is Fast where they change real quickly for stuck pixels. When using the slides as screen conditioners you want them set to change color slower. This is not all there is too it( i know about Burn-in and Image retention), but one of the advantages to using slides in the plasma and some LCD/LED a few years back was to age the screen evenly. When you used the slides in the beginning of a new panel you were able to age all the panel the same from edge to edge and corner to corner. If you took a new panel and just started watching it, there were instances were after a few months the center of the screen would have a different brightness than the edges and corners. It was kinda like a Large circle in the center of the screen( where all the action was) that was different shades, brightness, and even colors were different than the corners and edges.

This came from 90% of the aging process happening then in the First 300 Hours. So what we did was age the screen evenly(with slides) for the first 300 hours. That way our displays looked even well into their years.
I know not all people prescribe to this theory, but I do and still have used slides with random content on every Display I have owned for the first couple hundred hours or so depending on the way the display is responding to the aging process.
So as you can see it is not all about Burn-In and Image retention. There are more of reasons I use slides randomly during the first hours but this is the small of it.
I Hope this gives everyone something more to consider and increase you Knowledge about Displays.
I am using them on my FIRST OLED ( This means I am not expert about them ) no one has given me any reason not too.



These are just my opinion and are not to start a flame war.


I am not a PRO.

Nothing's Impossible if you don't have to do it yourself ! Glenee

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post #6969 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 07:14 AM
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Yes I knew you were. When using the slides there are two ways to use them. One is Fast where they change real quickly for stuck pixels. When using the slides as screen conditioners you want them set to change color slower. This is not all there is too it( i know about Burn-in and Image retention), but one of the advantages to using slides in the plasma and some LCD/LED a few years back was to age the screen evenly. When you used the slides in the beginning of a new panel you were able to age all the panel the same from edge to edge and corner to corner. If you took a new panel and just started watching it, there were instances were after a few months the center of the screen would have a different brightness than the edges and corners. It was kinda like a Large circle in the center of the screen( where all the action was) that was different shades, brightness, and even colors were different than the corners and edges.

This came from 90% of the aging process happening then in the First 300 Hours. So what we did was age the screen evenly(with slides) for the first 300 hours. That way our displays looked even well into their years.
I know not all people prescribe to this theory, but I do and still have used slides with random content on every Display I have owned for the first couple hundred hours or so depending on the way the display is responding to the aging process.
So as you can see it is not all about Burn-In and Image retention. There are more of reasons I use slides randomly during the first hours but this is the small of it.
I Hope this gives everyone something more to consider and increase you Knowledge about Displays.
I am using them on my FIRST OLED ( This means I am not expert about them ) no one has given me any reason not too.



These are just my opinion and are not to start a flame war.


I am not a PRO.
There's no argument here. I'm aware of what the slides are for, which is why I'm running them, lol. Running the slides for the first 100 hrs isn't required, but it is still recommended.

My post was just pointing out that I had found older posts stating to run them with the slideshow set to "fast" speed so that's what I did. And then I discovered with more searching D-Nice saying to use the slow speed. So what did running almost 100hrs at fast do? Did it age the sub-pixels differently? Should I run them at slow for another 100hrs or so? How will that affect calibration and the next few hundred hours, etc, etc.

That's all I meant, "oops I did a thing sort of incorrectly for a long time (but it probably doesn't matter that much... I hope)."
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post #6970 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 07:38 AM
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Interesting 24p judder test on the C8:

Try this clip played on the TV Youtube App with Real Cinema ON (default) and True Motion > Custom Dejudder 0 and Smooth 0. Then Change True Motion to off. With True Motion set to off its a lot more jumpy. This is enough to show it's actually doing something. RTINGS mentioned it and thought it was nonsense. But hey it makes it better!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtoxUohG5E

Fun little exercise. When I play it at Custom: DJ 0, DB 0, it’s pretty choppy. Better if I change it to DJ 3, DB 10. Best is simply setting it to Smooth, and it completely smooths it out.

Thanks for sharing this.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes it won’t be smooth without True Motion. But the interesting thing is it’s choppy but consistent. When you Turn it off it stutters. Who would have thought setting both to 0 had an effect.
Real cinema kicks in with both sliders at 0. These are the settings I've always used for 24p. Shouldnt need to use sliders. Real cinema on, sliders both at 0. No judder.
Interesting. Is this documented anywhere in the LG materials?
After more digging Im not 100% sure of the relationship between the 2. Perhaps having trumotion turned on overrides the real cinema option. Which greys it out. Thats my current theory. Either way I have real cinema on all the time. It ONLY changes 24p material. it wont affect anything else.
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post #6971 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 09:06 AM
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Guide button function

Over 200 hours in, loving my 65C8 more and more.

I went through the set-top-box setup with the tv and LG is not compatible with my Canadian Bell Satellite reciever for the built-in guide.
Does anyone know if there's anyway to change the Guide button function on the remote for use with my set-top-box menu?
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post #6972 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 09:22 AM
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Over 200 hours in, loving my 65C8 more and more.

I went through the set-top-box setup with the tv and LG is not compatible with my Canadian Bell Satellite reciever for the built-in guide.
Does anyone know if there's anyway to change the Guide button function on the remote for use with my set-top-box menu?
I just use a Harmony remote for single remote control of my cable box (Comcrap), 65C8, UBK90, ATV4k, and Yamaha receiver. That gives me complete control over all of the functions on any of my devices.
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post #6973 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 10:01 AM
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There's no argument here. I'm aware of what the slides are for, which is why I'm running them, lol. Running the slides for the first 100 hrs isn't required, but it is still recommended.

My post was just pointing out that I had found older posts stating to run them with the slideshow set to "fast" speed so that's what I did. And then I discovered with more searching D-Nice saying to use the slow speed. So what did running almost 100hrs at fast do? Did it age the sub-pixels differently? Should I run them at slow for another 100hrs or so? How will that affect calibration and the next few hundred hours, etc, etc.

That's all I meant, "oops I did a thing sort of incorrectly for a long time (but it probably doesn't matter that much... I hope)."
I don't think u did anything to cause a concern. The only thing you did was insure a good panel and Power supply. Just run it on slow from now on. Just let them run about 6 hours a day the rest should just be random viewing.

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post #6974 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 10:06 AM
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Has there been any official response from LG concerning the hissing/buzzing the 77 inch C8 has? Mine is mostly quiet, but in darker scenes when watching a movie, I can hear it hissing based on how dark the image is. It's odd to me that the TV buzzes/hisses at lower brightnesses than higher brightnesses.
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post #6975 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 10:12 AM
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I just use a Harmony remote for single remote control of my cable box (Comcrap), 65C8, UBK90, ATV4k, and Yamaha receiver. That gives me complete control over all of the functions on any of my devices.

Which Harmony do you have? And is it also possible to have a button for all the apps that are open on the Appletv?So that you can switch to them or close them. Because that button is missing on the LG Magic Remote.
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post #6976 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 10:17 AM
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Which Harmony do you have? And is it also possible to have a button for all the apps that are open on the Appletv?So that you can switch to them or close them. Because that button is missing on the LG Magic Remote.
With a hsrmony remote, you can program (clone) a Harmony button to do that as long as there is a button like that on the original remote

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post #6977 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 10:55 AM
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Has there been any official response from LG concerning the hissing/buzzing the 77 inch C8 has? Mine is mostly quiet, but in darker scenes when watching a movie, I can hear it hissing based on how dark the image is. It's odd to me that the TV buzzes/hisses at lower brightnesses than higher brightnesses.


Unfortunately no. But they definitely are aware of the issue. There is no way in hell they’re going to fix it though IMO. They won’t sell enough of this size to warrant re-engineering the power supply.


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post #6978 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 11:01 AM
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Which Harmony do you have? And is it also possible to have a button for all the apps that are open on the Appletv?So that you can switch to them or close them. Because that button is missing on the LG Magic Remote.
I purchased a couple of new, Harmony 700's from Amazon. The 700 has been discontinued but I just needed them to do just operate my HTS's. The 700 also works just fine with my ATV4 and ATV4k, just like the Apple remote. Configuration was very easy, unlike the old 880 I had. The downside is that it has a rechargeable battery, which lasts about a month depending on usage before recharging. I think it's also limited to 6 (?) devices. I only have four so that's not an issue for me. The 880 sat on a rechargeable cradle, which was nice. You can use multiple Harmony's with one MyHarmony app on your computer. The app just lists them as Harmony 1, Harmony 2, etc so you can have different devices and know which one is which if you need to make changes.
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post #6979 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 11:49 AM
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On my PC with my AMD R9 290 videocard (not fully 4k HDR compatible), when i play a UHD HDR movie, it looks exactly the same when MADVR downscales it to 1080P, compared to when i play the movie in the PLEX media server in the tv.
Or am i missing something? I really dont see the 4k-1080p difference.
Its because MADVR downscales,but then the tv just upscales it again??
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post #6980 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 01:23 PM
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Unfortunately no. But they definitely are aware of the issue. There is no way in hell they’re going to fix it though IMO. They won’t sell enough of this size to warrant re-engineering the power supply.


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StumpyBloke
I'm really feel bad of your hissing problem! I right on the verge of waiting for the price to drop and get a 77". Although my E6P still rocks, i still want a 77", but if i have to be bummed by the hissing, i won't go for the C8 77. I really feel bad for you, that set cost you some major $.
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post #6981 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 01:40 PM
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Has anyone here tried hooking up a Hard drive to this display and using the Internal Guide to set up a quasi DVR ? I just ran onto some European men who are doing just that in another forum. I think they are downloading app and doing most of it thru the app. It's like Free TIVO for over the air.
That doesn't work in the USA. I wish it were an option here but it is only in select countries. The ability is there is just a question of a software update.
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post #6982 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 01:46 PM
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Ive seen numerous posts where people mention real cinema being greyed out. This is because they either have trumotion on, or off depending on the source. If you go to turn it off, and you cant, its because trumotion is turned on. If that makes sense. The opposite can also be true I believe.
If Real Cinema is grayed out then it is off. It gets turned off when using Trumotion. So Real Cinema ON and Trumotion at 0/0 and Real Cinema OFF and Trumotion at 0/0 should be the same thing.
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post #6983 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 01:52 PM
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That doesn't work in the USA. I wish it were an option here but it is only in select countries. The ability is there is just a question of a software update.
Damn I was getting really excited.Thanks.

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post #6984 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 02:09 PM
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StumpyBloke

I'm really feel bad of your hissing problem! I right on the verge of waiting for the price to drop and get a 77". Although my E6P still rocks, i still want a 77", but if i have to be bummed by the hissing, i won't go for the C8 77. I really feel bad for you, that set cost you some major $.


Thanks. It is a real shame LG have designed them so badly ththat there are massive variances in the noise they create. I guess I’m lucky though because I’ve got until January to decide whether to send it back or not for a replacement or a full refund. So, at least I’m not stuck with it if I can’t live with the hissing.


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post #6985 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 03:45 PM
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I usually don't say anything until I have had time to get some meters and a reference pattern generator on a display. This is my first OLED, it is a 55C8.
I will say that this display is moving around more than any type display I have worked with before in the early aging process. I am going to wait until it has 200 hours( and maybe more if it is still moving around ) on it before I dig hard in to it.
Some of the things you are chasing your tails about on the the black levels, just give it some time if your under 200 hours. I think it will take that long for stabilization and early aging.

(i.e. I started out at Brightness 56 when I started and it is already down to 52 in the first 100 hours.) These are not eyeball but on disks and meter.
I am not a PRO.

Correct, what I'm seeing is my 77C8 is finally getting much more stable after the 300 hour mark. Why I say that is when I profile my reference meter for my read meter. I use LiVal and ChromaSurf two very exacting meter profile software programs that tells me what is going on with panel drift among other things.
As far as brightness goes there is no one setting that fits all, unless you start running 3DLUT's then you must use a brightness setting of 50.



btw, you probably are as good as many "Pro" calibrators, you may want to if you don't already start reading the calibration thread for are C8's.


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post #6986 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by StumpyBloke View Post
Thanks. It is a real shame LG have designed them so badly ththat there are massive variances in the noise they create. I guess I’m lucky though because I’ve got until January to decide whether to send it back or not for a replacement or a full refund. So, at least I’m not stuck with it if I can’t live with the hissing.
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Actually that was also a issue with the Kuro and/or Panasonic plasma. If I remember correctly they did come up with a fix and it didn't involve replacing the power supply. I never did have them fix my plasma because it never bothered me, just as the slight hum that only last for a second or two even if the dark screen stays the same, that I can only hear if I have the volume turned down on my 77C8.

Anyway I think its time to stop kicking this dead horse and move on.



ss
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post #6987 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 04:04 PM
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Anyone got anything on my question as to the impact of a fire place 3 2 feels from the edge of the tv? don't want to get burn in
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post #6988 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 04:06 PM
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Damn I was getting really excited.Thanks.
On the bright side, you guys can see how many hours the TV has been powered on instead . We can't!
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post #6989 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 04:45 PM
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Is setting the Xbox X to Full RGB with this tv ideal?...
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post #6990 of 20463 Old 10-24-2018, 05:02 PM
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On the bright side, you guys can see how many hours the TV has been powered on instead . We can't!
Trade you .
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Nothing's Impossible if you don't have to do it yourself ! Glenee
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