2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 300 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8971 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 10:07 AM
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I was thinking the same thing about gamma. There is quite a big difference between 2.4 and 2.2.
Why is there no 2.3 gamma?
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post #8972 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cam1977 View Post
Great info bro, thanks a bunch!
No problem! I did initially watch movies with the player you have (borrowed it from my dad) while the ub820 arrived and it looked great too, it's just the Panasonic has a couple of extra tricks up it's sleeve, and you can turn off Dolby Vision as well which might be helpful if something breaks with DV in the future. Feel free to ask away on the player if any of you have any questions on it, the UB820 thread is mostly filled with projector guys from what I've seen.

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Originally Posted by TallCoolOne View Post
APL behavior aside, I’m curious how tone mapping in the player would even work. My understanding of tone mapping is that the movie metadata contains the peak luminance and the TV, knowing its limitations, will map the data to fit within its range respectively. How would the player know how to tone map unless it was given the TV’s max luminance based on the color volume in a scene? And even if it did have a basic luminance number, I would think the TV could better calculate the tone map based on the rest of the color volume data in the scene and what works best for the tv in that situation.

Is my understanding of tone mapping wrong?
The player has different tone mapping presets depending on your display:

Basic Luminance LCD and Projector (500 nits)
Middle or High Luminance LCD (1000 nits)
Super High Luminance LCD (1500 nits)
OLED (1000 nits)

As to why there are 2 settings for 1000 nits, maybe they are doing something slightly different for OLEDs, but I suspect it was done this way to make it easier for users. Also not all tvs do well what you described, prior to 2018 models LG Oleds would based their tone mapping on the mastering level of the content, instead of what it was actually outputting. So a movie mastered at 4000 nits that only went up to 600 nits at it's highest point, would still be tone mapped off the 4000 nit number, leading to an unnecessarily dim picture (I believe this is part of what you see on Vincent's 2017 Oled tone mapping comparison video). Also, some movies only say their mastering level only. Someone with more technical expertise in these areas can probably explain/correct anything I stated, but this is my understanding of how it works.

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Originally Posted by BerserkDoomguy View Post
Do you shut off dynamic tone mapping when doing calibration in games?
No as I don't quite trust most games HDR calibration options, they seem overly simplistic. Now Halo... That one is fantastic and makes most other games options look poor and half baked. And on Halo I found that leaving it on and maxing out the peak HDR output produced about the same level of highlight detail as calibrating to it off, with the added bonus of a higher APL.

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Originally Posted by Cam1977 View Post
^it could be that's it's a bit cooler...but the pq seems a bit more natural. I need to watch more content to really see if I'll keep it at that, but so far my go to movies look good at warm 1.
I've been using it for over a week and prefer it too. It kind of exposes how warm 2 pushes yellow/orange too much. Now maybe warm 1 has little too much teal, but not to the same degree as the yellow push on warm 2. Now I just need them to fix technicolor in PC mode so it stops locking to a wide color gamut in SDR, as Pennywise stated; and to include the option to switch chroma sampling mode on PC, so I can switch it to 4:2:2 instead of locking to 4:4:4. This way I can use Technicolor Warm 1 for gaming without color banding and not have to rely on HDR game mode.
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post #8973 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jin-X View Post


I've been using it for over a week and prefer it too. It kind of exposes how warm 2 pushes yellow/orange too much. Now maybe warm 1 has little too much teal, but not to the same degree as the yellow push on warm 2. Now I just need them to fix technicolor in PC mode so it stops locking to a wide color gamut in SDR, as Pennywise stated; and to include the option to switch chroma sampling mode on PC, so I can switch it to 4:2:2 instead of locking to 4:4:4. This way I can use Technicolor Warm 1 for gaming without color banding and not have to rely on HDR game mode.

WHY do they lock it on wide color gamut in PC mode? I dont understand,it's so stupid. Was it ever NOT like this in other models?
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post #8974 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 11:31 AM
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why would you want to switch to 4:2:2 from 4:4:4...?? makes no sense to me

thats the main reason i use PC Mode
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post #8975 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post
why would you want to switch to 4:2:2 from 4:4:4...?? makes no sense to me

thats the main reason i use PC Mode

Because i use the AUTO blacklevel setting in PC mode, that works better for my devices connected to the AVR.
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post #8976 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 12:28 PM
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Question Input Switching on TV vs AVR

Greetings gang --

Santa has prepositioned my 55C8 at my house prior to Christmas to accelerate delivery time

I'm initially going to have to use ARC for sound because my Onkyo doesn't support 4k. But when reading thru the first 100 or so pages of this thread, I gather you can customize picture setting for each input on the TV. So am I right in thinking even if I upgrade the receiver at some point, I'll want to continue to use the TV to switch inputs? If I feed them thru an AVR if I go from a 4K source to a lower quality source, I'll have to fiddle with the picture settings.

Also, where does the power cord enter the TV. Don't see it in the pics. I have my current 50 inch Panny attached to a BDI Avion 9970, and the power cord is jammed in under the mount. It works, but I was not happy with that .

Thanks -- I'm working my way through the thread, but haven't seen these questions so far. I've got several hundred more pages to go.

D
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post #8977 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkat007 View Post
Quick question, does the entire screen or just the static logo dim when that option is selected in settings? Originally thought it was just the logo, but seems, when viewing, it's the entire screen?
Somewhere in between. Maybe about 20% of the screen, but its not just "logos" that trigger it. Any bright object in a darker area can trigger it. So its not impossible that more than one area of the screen might be triggered. Unless you routinely leave the TV on with a channel logo or banner displayed, turn this off.
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post #8978 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phusebox View Post
After having had a C7 for about 18 months I upgraded got the C8 and gave the 'old' set to my parents.

Today I put up my third C8 as the first had a horrible bright half of the screen when viewed in a dimly lit room.

The second needed a brightness of 65 to get the flashing bars right and had some banding.

The third I just installed had banding that is visible at 40% gray in daylight with OLED light on 15. Plus I had to turn the brightness up to 72 on this set...

What the hell is wrong with LG?

Oh and also, all three had a curve or multiple curves in the screen.

Really done with this crappy TV.
Yeah it's sad while OLED is gorgeous there are ton of QA issues. I personally own a C8 that developed a 3 inch opaque bar after 3 months. I'm still a week later trying to get LG to come out.
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post #8979 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
Somewhere in between. Maybe about 20% of the screen, but its not just "logos" that trigger it. Any bright object in a darker area can trigger it. So its not impossible that more than one area of the screen might be triggered. Unless you routinely leave the TV on with a channel logo or banner displayed, turn this off.
Okay, with all the concerns over inappropriate dimming or brightening of the screen(ABL, ABSL, whatever), leaving the logo dimmer setting off may be OK for those that don't watch cable news or the History channels. What do others think?
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post #8980 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgr131 View Post
Greetings gang --

Santa has prepositioned my 55C8 at my house prior to Christmas to accelerate delivery time

I'm initially going to have to use ARC for sound because my Onkyo doesn't support 4k. But when reading thru the first 100 or so pages of this thread, I gather you can customize picture setting for each input on the TV. So am I right in thinking even if I upgrade the receiver at some point, I'll want to continue to use the TV to switch inputs? If I feed them thru an AVR if I go from a 4K source to a lower quality source, I'll have to fiddle with the picture settings.

Also, where does the power cord enter the TV. Don't see it in the pics. I have my current 50 inch Panny attached to a BDI Avion 9970, and the power cord is jammed in under the mount. It works, but I was not happy with that .

Thanks -- I'm working my way through the thread, but haven't seen these questions so far. I've got several hundred more pages to go.

D
Depending on your connected devices you may not have a choice but to either use ARC/CEC or not. Some newer devices allow you separate control over ARC and CEC. A lot don't, so if you disable CEC because of the multitude of issues with that, you will disable ARC as well. As far as ARC/CEC on the C8 goes, I think it's all inputs for CEC and HDMI 2 for ARC. As far as I know you can't enable/disable ARC/CEC on individual inputs. Picture settings can be customized for each input but not ARC/CEC.

I prefer to use my AVR as the hub on my HTS and not the tv. I have ARC/CEC disabled on all of my devices and use a Harmony remote for single remote control of my HTS, and just use an optical cable for Comcrap HDTV (and the SmartApps) to send discrete 5.1 audio to the receiver.

The power cord to my 65 C8 is inside a recessed panel on the left side of the back.
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post #8981 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepiecesfit View Post
Yeah it's sad while OLED is gorgeous there are ton of QA issues. I personally own a C8 that developed a 3 inch opaque bar after 3 months. I'm still a week later trying to get LG to come out.
I'm coming up to 3 months on my 65 C8 and still looks as good as the day I set it up. Zero issues.
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post #8982 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 02:02 PM
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I have had my C8 for a few weeks now and have been loving it.

Unfortunately the other day I put on a white screen and noticed a single dead( not stuck) pixel in the upper left corner.

There is no way I would normally notice the pixel unless I was a foot from the tv and there was a static color.

I wanted to see if anyone has successfully fixed a dead pixel? It’s black so I assume it’s dead. Does this increase the chance of getting more dead pixels ?

Also is this even worth returning? It’s one pixel, plus I would have to remove it from the wall etc to return.

Thanks in advance.
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post #8983 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 02:04 PM
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Greetings,

New C8 owner here (and a B7 owner as well. Who needs money anyway?). I'm pretty pleased for the most part. The main use of the TV is for gaming, so I jumped on it upon reading of the employment of dynamic tone mapping for game mode, which does a great job of brightening things up generally. A few of the differences I've noticed from the B7 are: 1) a buzzing/hissing sound coming from the back of the TV, which seems to be the power unit noise that a lot of people seem to mention, 2) a bit of a lighter spot on dark grey screens in the bottom left of the display, akin to a "flashlighting" effect on an LED (seems manageable by keeping brightness below 50-51, but yeah, the left side of the TV just seems to brighten more quickly than the right), and finally, and most annoyingly, 3) the erratic dimming/brightening behaviour. I noticed this almost immediately coming from the B7, and am now seeing examples all over the place during games of the image lazily dimming and brightening in response to on-screen luminance changes.

Overall, seems decent though. I had some vertical banding on the B7, including one irritating strip just right-of-center that was fairly visible on darker images, whereas the C8 seems way better in that regard. The right side of the C8 showed some weird grey uniformity down the right side when I first got it (seemed too dark), but I've run a couple of pixel refreshes and they did a good job of cleaning it up for the most part.

Regarding the dimming/brightening issue though, have I read correctly that LG's impending firmware update is supposedly rectifying this problem? I find it pretty distracting, but have no issues trudging on if a fix is on the way.
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post #8984 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 02:41 PM
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My brand-new LG C8 will not play sound to my Denon AVR-X1400H via the HDMI ARC function.

How can I fix this?

I've made sure HDMI ARC is selected as Sound Out.

I've tried connecting another ARC capable TV to the Denon and then it works so I assume it's the LG TV that is the problem...

---

Sorry for the repost. I'm a bit frustrated... I tried to create a separate topic two days ago but it was moved by a moderator into this thread. Since then there has been nearly 200 (!) replies but neither deals with this issue.

It basically feels as if I ask my question quietly in a noisy bar...

Why can't I create my own topic that deals with the problem I'm facing? All the questions I ask is moved into a big "melting pot" where they disappear in the wilderness...

Thank you if you pay attention or even see or read this post and care to reply...
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post #8985 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 03:02 PM
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

I prefer to use my AVR as the hub on my HTS and not the tv. I have ARC/CEC disabled on all of my devices and use a Harmony remote for single remote control of my HTS, and just use an optical cable for Comcrap HDTV (and the SmartApps) to send discrete 5.1 audio to the receiver.

The power cord to my 65 C8 is inside a recessed panel on the left side of the back.
Thanks! Lots of great info! Do you find when you switch sources on your hub, you have to play with picture settings for each source? Say, you were watchin 4K, and now are are going to SAT or CBL, since you passing all your signals thru one input?

Thanks so much!

D
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post #8986 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoggorm View Post
My brand-new LG C8 will not play sound to my Denon AVR-X1400H via the HDMI ARC function.

How can I fix this?

I've made sure HDMI ARC is selected as Sound Out.

I've tried connecting another ARC capable TV to the Denon and then it works so I assume it's the LG TV that is the problem...
I'm going to take a stab and say you also have to enable in on the Denon per the manual: http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX1400H/E...SYwysioymk.php

Don't have the Denon, but on my AVR I have to turn it on.

D
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post #8987 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgr131 View Post
I'm going to take a stab and say you also have to enable in on the Denon per the manual: http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX1400H/E...SYwysioymk.php

Don't have the Denon, but on my AVR I have to turn it on.

D

He said he tried the Denon on another ARC capable TV and that it worked.
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post #8988 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pennywise666 View Post
He said he tried the Denon on another ARC capable TV and that it worked.
I suspect he’s missed a setting, needs to check his cable (premium certified), and make sure both ends are seated correctly. There are plenty of Denon owners - like myself - with no issues using ARC. ARC regardless of the receiver or display brand can be a little finicky. Fortunately I’ve never had a problem.

There is no perfect display, quit looking for faults and enjoy

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post #8989 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk82 View Post
I was thinking the same thing about gamma. There is quite a big difference between 2.4 and 2.2.
Why is there no 2.3 gamma?
As it happens I earlier measured Game mode defaults.
Gamma "Medium" was average 2.14
Gamma "High1" was average 2.34
Gamma "High2" was average 2.35.

Perhaps High 1 and 2 were more different in other modes but no time to check everything. I'm suspicious that changing the colour temp affected the gamma too.

Temperature C30 (the default) was ridiculously blue. Even 0 which I expected to be neutral was way blue. The warmest possible, W50, was the most accurate for the neutral D56 white point. But no way of going the other side of D65 to be warmer.

Unfortunately Game mode is locked to "Wide" Gamut, so difficult to get any accuracy out of just tweaking settings. For my panel the most accurate just tweaking settings in Game mode was
Colour Temp W50
Colour (saturation) 40
Tint R20
Oled light 40 gave a peak white of 155 nits, still too bright really for my room
Gamma High1 or 2

Screenshots attached for interest/fun. The settings are in the filenames.
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post #8990 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkat007 View Post
Okay, with all the concerns over inappropriate dimming or brightening of the screen(ABL, ABSL, whatever), leaving the logo dimmer setting off may be OK for those that don't watch cable news or the History channels. What do others think?
I have it on high all the time. Earlier firmwares didn't seem to do much. But I have noticed a change in behaviour with more recent firmwares and it does dim more noticeably in a "blob" shape around the offending static logo. The Low and High settings only affect how quickly the TV reacts, and sadly not by "how much it dims" that part of the screen.

I applaud LG for at least trying with this option, with all the mind-blowing picture processing these days in TVs it's very late to the party. I want an option which removes logos completely though, not just dims them. They are teasing us with this first attempt.
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post #8991 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 04:52 PM
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^man if they can completely remove logos...that could be game changing.
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post #8992 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bndmod36 View Post
I have had my C8 for a few weeks now and have been loving it.

Unfortunately the other day I put on a white screen and noticed a single dead( not stuck) pixel in the upper left corner.

There is no way I would normally notice the pixel unless I was a foot from the tv and there was a static color.

I wanted to see if anyone has successfully fixed a dead pixel? It’s black so I assume it’s dead. Does this increase the chance of getting more dead pixels ?

Also is this even worth returning? It’s one pixel, plus I would have to remove it from the wall etc to return.

Thanks in advance.

I’ve owed 2 e6 a b7 and I went through 3 77c8 and they have all had at least one dead sub pixel. If you have no other issues with the tv I would just forget about the dead pixel. I’ve stopped looking for dead pixels, if I can’t see it from seated distance then it’s a non issue in my book.
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post #8993 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamd View Post
I’ve owed 2 e6 a b7 and I went through 3 77c8 and they have all had at least one dead sub pixel. If you have no other issues with the tv I would just forget about the dead pixel. I’ve stopped looking for dead pixels, if I can’t see it from seated distance then it’s a non issue in my book.
i have a 55 930V OLED, B6 65 OLED and now a 77 C8 OLED and ive never gone looking for problems. thats the best way for me. if i see it during a movie or show then its a problem otherwise dont look for it lol
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LG OLED C8 77". Oppo 203, Panasonic UB9000, Marantz 8802A, Arcam A49, Arcam P429 x 2, Monitor Audio gold 300 fronts. C350 centre speaker. Apex 10 rears. 4 X SVS elevation primes for atmos, DUAL SVS SB16-Ultra Subwoofer. Xbox one X 3TB, PS4 PRO 1TB

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post #8994 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoggorm View Post
My brand-new LG C8 will not play sound to my Denon AVR-X1400H via the HDMI ARC function.

How can I fix this?

I've made sure HDMI ARC is selected as Sound Out.

I've tried connecting another ARC capable TV to the Denon and then it works so I assume it's the LG TV that is the problem...

---

Sorry for the repost. I'm a bit frustrated... I tried to create a separate topic two days ago but it was moved by a moderator into this thread. Since then there has been nearly 200 (!) replies but neither deals with this issue.

It basically feels as if I ask my question quietly in a noisy bar...

Why can't I create my own topic that deals with the problem I'm facing? All the questions I ask is moved into a big "melting pot" where they disappear in the wilderness...

Thank you if you pay attention or even see or read this post and care to reply...
Hoggorm,

I posted something a couple of days ago and then today but not directly to you.

I had a similar issue with the new Yamaha TSR-7850. At one point it was working fine and then blammo....no sound over ARC. I powered down everything and started the setup over again and could then get sound over ARC. I have a slightly different need/use as my wife just wants to use the DirecTV remote and the internal speakers of the TV. I have have been experimenting with different setups and continue to get sound over ARC.

As some have suggested, the HDMI world can be whacky at times. Just because one cable works with the other tv does not necessarily mean that it will work with the LG. I was fortunate enough to find a set of cables at Costco, they had hundreds of them, that worked fine in my case.

Best of luck. Handshake issues are a royal pain.
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post #8995 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tgr131 View Post
Thanks! Lots of great info! Do you find when you switch sources on your hub, you have to play with picture settings for each source? Say, you were watchin 4K, and now are are going to SAT or CBL, since you passing all your signals thru one input?

Thanks so much!

D
I have Comcrap HDTV and internet. The cable box is connected directly to the C8 via HDMI because the Xfininty legacy box can't handle Deep Color. So, on the C8 HDMI input that I use for cable tv, I disabled that feature and use the Cinema User settings for cable tv. PQ is about as good as one can expect from cable. The C8 is set to use optical for the audio so I have an optical cable from the C8 to the AVR (Yamaha A780). The ATV4k and the UHD blu-ray player (UBK90) are connected directly to the A780 on separate HDMI inputs with a single HDMI cable connecting the A780 to the C8. Currently I am using the Technicolor default settings for streaming and UHD blu-ray which is working extremely well. If I want to use Separate Day or Night settings for the ATV4k/blu-ray then yes, I do have to manually switch picture modes but so far I haven't had to. All of that is easy to do with a Harmony remote being as I have disabled ARC/CEC on all of my devices.

I have an older HTS downstairs setup the same way and that has worked very well for the last few years.
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post #8996 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamd View Post
I’ve owed 2 e6 a b7 and I went through 3 77c8 and they have all had at least one dead sub pixel. If you have no other issues with the tv I would just forget about the dead pixel. I’ve stopped looking for dead pixels, if I can’t see it from seated distance then it’s a non issue in my book.

Wow, now that's not losing the panel lottery, that's just bad karma. What did you do, insult Philo Farnsworth's mother's combat boots as a kid or something?

Russ (another one)
LG65 & 77C8PUA / Bose Soundbar 700 / OPPO UDP205 / Verizon FIOS TV One

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C8/E8 Questions? Try JCC's_FAQ Or LiQiCE's_Wiki

Last edited by RBO; 12-01-2018 at 06:55 PM.
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post #8997 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 07:42 PM
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A bunch of posts back people were talking about changing settings in the service menu to defeat the Asbl (hdr module was one). Can someone remind me what settings people were changing and what the defaults should be? Also can someone remind me what the code to get into the service menu was? Thanks!


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post #8998 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 07:59 PM
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Why is this not playing properly on my Appletv? There's no HDR logo appearing.


https://4kmedia.org/life-untouched-hdr-uhd-4k-demo/
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post #8999 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 09:17 PM
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I am trying to decide between the C8 and E8.
Question, Optically, is the C8 with the plastic "lens" optically the same as the E8 with the glass "lens"?

I am currently using a Panasonic ZT60 65 inch plasma, with a glass "lens", so that makes me lean towards the E8, but the C8 is less expensive.

Thanks.
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post #9000 of 21605 Old 12-01-2018, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
A bias light from someone like MediaLight works very well. I have one on my LCD downstairs and one on my C8 upstairs. When we watch tv, it is usually the only light on in the room and we have zero eye fatigue, and there is just enough light to walk around without bumping into furniture.
Thanks for the tip I picked it up and mounted it. Love the dimmable functionality and high CRI. However, wish the remote actually worked beyond 5 feet. Not the end of the world. The picture is fantastic and looks like its floating off the wall.
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