2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 323 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9661 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
Mine doesn't have any issues either! I suspect that Otto and I have been deemed especially worthy.
The only issue I have is lack of sleep from watching too much tv! Excellent experience here too. Nothing to complain. That's probably why I don't post that much....
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post #9662 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by elphillips View Post
drewTT, did you try to turn the set on with the button on the back of the set?


Yes of course. She’s dunzo.

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post #9663 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam1977 View Post
hate to break this to you...my former e6 is in mint condition.
It seems to me (admittedly ignorant) that I can't really tell if an OLED has burn-in if it's actively hiding it. This is why I won't buy a used OLED. Am I wrong in this? Hope so I could really use the savings!

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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
There are at least two other threads for you to advance your agenda.
I'm exactly the sort of person who benefits from these issues being raised on an owner's thread. I'm grateful for the links to the other conversations.

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Originally Posted by Cam1977 View Post
I know right, because searching with a magnifying glass for problems constantly is normal.
Please, magnify on.

I don't know what the initials ABL and ASBL stand for, nor could I find definitions or descriptions online. The conversations I found didn't enlighten me much. Everyone else seems to already know far more about OLED than I do.

Apparently there are several fixed C8 issues? Any known issues with this TV that have not been fixed yet besides this apparently poorly understood 'macroblocking'? What is cinemotion? Is the C8 bright enough to do full HDR or Dolby Vision or whatever it's called? Does it have wide color gamut and should I care? What does it mean when a TV like this supports Atmos? Whatever happened to consumer 3D? (Yes I'm way behind.) Thanks again.
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post #9664 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenBF View Post
So, I had read that going from an 6 series to a 7 wasn't that much of an upgrade, sort of like going from a 7 to an 8 may not be that huge a leap, but it would be a nice upgrade from a 6 to an 8. I also went from a 55 to a 65, but as in quality of picture and clarity, I honestly see a difference. Even regular HD looks good. There are a few new settings that make things easier and a little better, and the fact that there is internal Atmos now was a huge thing for me. I have an Atmos capable home theater system and once I got ARC all set up, playing an Atmos capable show like Altered Carbon, and especially Amazon's Jack Ryan were amazing. There are more viewing types to choose from, and on my E6 everyone would recommend ISF dark, I didn't like it because it was to dark and dingy for me, but on this TV it's perfect. I could go on about the little things, but to answer your question...yes it was worth it. I will add, I didn't actively seek this TV out. I had 3 TVs and one of them died, was 9+ years old so no huge loss. Because of that I had to replace a TV, so I decided to change out my living room 55 E6 for the 65 C8 and it was a good decision, no regrets!!
Are you really able to get true Atmos sent through ARC to your receiver? I thought Atmos/DTS:X could only be sent through eARC and/or HDMI 2.1 which are not present on the C8. Trust me I would love to hear otherwise but I thought the formats that could pass through ARC were limited to the same formats that can be passed over an optical connection. Can anyone confirm?
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post #9665 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by zambine View Post
Are you really able to get true Atmos sent through ARC to your receiver? I thought Atmos/DTS:X could only be sent through eARC and/or HDMI 2.1 which are not present on the C8. Trust me I would love to hear otherwise but I thought the formats that could pass through ARC were only the same as what could be passed over the optical connection. Can anyone else confirm?
Atmos can pass through arc. I use it all the time on the built in apps that support it. One example is vudu.

Optical only supports up to 5.1 standard surround, hdmi supports all formats of audio.


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Last edited by Jrocker23; 12-08-2018 at 09:40 PM.
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post #9666 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncocap View Post
Just got my C8 I don't see the pop the picture looks soft even with 4K videos on YouTube what am I doing wrong thanks
Have you tried any built in apps that support 4K? Do you have any 4K UHD movie discs?

Possible that your settings aren't exactly right. Search the forums here for some basic settings for sdr & hdr or try these

Hdtv Test settings


Hdtv Test General info




TV Calibration With Darko





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post #9667 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrocker23 View Post
Atmos can pass through arc. I use it all the time on the built in apps that support it. One example is vudu.

Optical only supports up to 5.1 standard surround, hdmi supports all formats of audio.
Lossless Atmos or lossy Atmos? From my understanding, some ARC connections can pass lossy Atmos but not lossless Atmos. HDMI does support all audio formats if you have a receiver than can decode them (most do) but the HDMI connection by itself doesn't guarantee lossless Atmos.
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post #9668 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by zambine View Post
Are you really able to get true Atmos sent through ARC to your receiver? I thought Atmos/DTS:X could only be sent through eARC and/or HDMI 2.1 which are not present on the C8. Trust me I would love to hear otherwise but I thought the formats that could pass through ARC were limited to the same formats that can be passed over an optical connection. Can anyone confirm?
According to my receiver...the front display and the app, what my receiver is processing and sending out through my speakers is Atmos. From my understanding this is the Atmos data on a Dolby Digital+ stream (compressed lossy audio), whereas the Atmos coming out of my Blue Ray player is Dolby TrueHD lossless audio. So, it's not TRUE (lossless audio) Atmos but it is an upgrade over the regular 5.1 Dolby Digital I had before.
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post #9669 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 10:48 PM
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So just purchased my first oled. Waiting for delivery and was just curious what to look for when I get my set...oled55e8 model. Anything that other owners have had issues with. Just want to know I've got absrt that's working properly. Thanks in advance.
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post #9670 of 19336 Old 12-08-2018, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by abouels0827 View Post
So just purchased my first oled. Waiting for delivery and was just curious what to look for when I get my set...oled55e8 model. Anything that other owners have had issues with. Just want to know I've got absrt that's working properly. Thanks in advance.
Some have issues just enjoying something for what it is, I would watch your favorite show's and let us know if you see something you do not like
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post #9671 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 01:28 AM
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Question on this... Getting a 940e but plan on upgrading to a 75 oled ina few years when price is down....Can mounts be adjusted vertically...like sliding up and down? Or do you have to redrill holes?

NO!
Me thinks they will not be enough to do this. But if you can do this it will be the very last holes and I dont like this as the tv will be on the bottom more that the top of the mount and it will make hard to adjust if needed (Off Balanced).
I think if I take the wall mount off the wall and put the top of the mount on the bottom existing holes and drill new bottom holes that might be enough to get out of this and this is the reason why I want someone to give me the measurements from the bottom holes to the bottom edge of the C8 77 inch.
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post #9672 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Duc Vu View Post
Watched IT (2017) movies yesterday and it was the first time I notice the issue called ASBL. The final fight between the kids and the clown was extremely dark and hard to see; I thought it was how the scene was supposed to be until I came back later and the scene was a lot less dim. So tempted to get into the service menu and turn off tcp. Next week an LG engineer will come with a IR blaster so I may ask him to help me do so. But is there a negative side effect by turning this off (apart from burn in risk of course)? Did Vincent Teoh from HDTVtest say it screws up the color of the tv?

Turning off ASBL (TPC in the service menu) doesn't have any impact on the picture. It only stops the dimming from happening during static or low APL scenes.

What you've seen in Vincents video was about turning on "module HDR" in the service menu which was related to another issue that has already been fixed in the latest fw.
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post #9673 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
So here's a strange one.

The .15 firmware update messed up my professional calibration as I was afraid it might -- different picture with the same settings. But it did not mess it up permanently...

I applied the update last evening. When the TV restarted, I immediately noticed that the picture was not the same, on the same source with the same content. It was noticeably brighter, in a bad way -- picture lost its sense of depth and looked a bit washed out. There was also noticeable edge enhancement, as though the sharpness was turned up, even though it was set to 0.

My awesome (even on SDR content) Chad B picture looked more like an LCD

This was on ISF Bright and Dark.

I tried cold-booting it twice, by turning it off and then unplugging it for about 20 seconds. The second time, I held in the power switch on the back (to drain the capacitors) while it was unplugged. This did not help.

Very oddly, both times I plugged it back in, the TV turned itself on right away! I thought "What the heck, if we have a temporary power failure while I am not home, will I come home to the TV being on?"

Some experimentation revealed that if I turned the Contrast from the usual 85 down to 81 or so, the picture recovered a lot of its pleasing naturalness and saturation, but at the cost of the loss of some black details.

I gave up at that point and just watched TV for the evening, figuring that I'd use a calibration disc today to poke at it.

First thing today, after the TV had been turned off but plugged in all night, I unplugged it again. This time I left it unplugged for 15 - 20 minutes. When I plugged it back in, it did NOT turn itself back on like it was doing last night. Hmmmmmm....

And when I turned it on with the remote, it was back to normal again, looks great now with the Contrast at 85.

I don't really like the fact that these televisions are computers now.
I thought I was crazy, but I see the same overbright picture after the update too. I tried resetting the presets to no avail. I'll try unplugging the set.
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post #9674 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by chengka View Post
I thought I was crazy, but I see the same overbright picture after the update too. I tried resetting the presets to no avail. I'll try unplugging the set.
I plan on getting my set calibrated this summer. So future firmware updates from LG will override a calibrated setting? Not ideal.

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post #9675 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeBloggz View Post
I plan on getting my set calibrated this summer. So future firmware updates from LG will override a calibrated setting? Not ideal.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
In most cases, a regular update will not change calibrated settings and should normally not change user settings.

With this update for the C8, they adjusted the noticeable heavy change from dark to bright scenes, so this may be why your picture is looking different & brighter






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post #9676 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 05:10 AM
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Where can you find manufacture date(besides on TV)? From the serial number? I haven't unboxed mine yet, as my den is being renovated.
It's on one end of the box. White label has model # and serial #.
I hope this is what your asking. If your asking how to decode manufactures date to find the date the Display was made, I have never seen the code breakdown.

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post #9677 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackman View Post
Well put it this way I'm from Australia and the cheapest LG C8 77 inch will cost us $9,500 + Australian Dollars (about two months we will have the Money) and I have wasted the space on this forum 12 times by asking the same questing which is can anyone that has the C8 77 inch can you please measure one of the wall mount bottom holes to the bottom of the tv. By asking this question many time I have come to conclusion than many that live in the US Don't have the money to buy a 77 inch C8 OLED TV.
Thanks all that have been reading this

I live in Norway, the meassurment from the center of the bottom hole to the bottom of my c8 77 is 20,1 cm (7.913385827 inches).
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post #9678 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 05:50 AM
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Off-topic and bickering posts removed.

Discuss these displays and not each other.

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post #9679 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 05:52 AM
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Guys, can anyone tell me how the picture quality on Hulu live is on the C8 Hulu app? Or the Apple 4k TV? How do Hulu live streaming channels compare to normal 1080p HD content?
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post #9680 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeBloggz View Post
Where can you find manufacture date(besides on TV)? From the serial number? I haven't unboxed mine yet, as my den is being renovated.
Yes, you can use the serial number along to get the date. This is useful if you can't have access to the back of the TV (eg if it's properly mounted on the wall).

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/96...r.html?page=11
According to this the format of the LG serial number is:
@=Year
A,B=Month
C,D=Factory Code
E,F=2 digit Secret Code
G-K=Sequential number (Some MWO models such as "SMB6500B" and "SMB6500W" have 6-digit sequential number from G-L.)

So, I have
8=2018
04=April
Factory=MA
etc

Basically, the 2nd and 3rd digits after the initial "8" give the month number.
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post #9681 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by CherylJosie View Post
I don't know what the initials ABL and ASBL stand for, nor could I find definitions or descriptions online. The conversations I found didn't enlighten me much. Everyone else seems to already know far more about OLED than I do.
OLEDs have auto brightness limiting (ABL) and auto static brightness limiting (ASBL) which are designed to reduce sustained high brightness output and to dim down what it *thinks* is a static, non-moving image (bright or not) respectively

ABL (automatic brightness limiter):
  • dimming of the picture based on average picture level and power draw
  • happens during very bright scenes
  • dims instantly and un-dims instantly
  • can't be disabled, but lowering Oled-Light makes it less aggressive
  • the dimming time was faulty between firmwares 3.00.63 (or earlier), and 4.10.15; there was a delay before the change, making it visible.

ASBL (automatic static brightness limiter):
  • dimming of the picture after being static for a certain amount of time. (90 seconds I think but not sure)
  • happens gradually
  • can also trigger during non static scenes with a very low average picture level
  • un-dims when something bright enters the scene or there is a scene change
  • can be disabled in the service menu

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Last edited by DrDon; 12-09-2018 at 09:23 AM.
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post #9682 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 06:08 AM
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Thread clean up of bickering posts and responses to the bickering posts. Also, please do not post street prices or where to buy....this forum (with the exception of deals stickies or the deals forum) are for tech talk.


Members that were asked to move on will receive infractions and possible thread bans if we have to come back again.
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post #9683 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 06:15 AM
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Additionally, owners' threads are places where actual owners discuss the sets they've purchased. It is NOT the place for "educating newbies" about the technology itself. There are PLENTY of other threads where that information is available.

Having to sift through pages of off-topic discussion just to get an answer to a question about a device is frustrating.
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post #9684 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenBF View Post
According to my receiver...the front display and the app, what my receiver is processing and sending out through my speakers is Atmos. From my understanding this is the Atmos data on a Dolby Digital+ stream (compressed lossy audio), whereas the Atmos coming out of my Blue Ray player is Dolby TrueHD lossless audio.
Sort of, but I would write that as "whereas the Atmos coming out of my Blu Ray player is lossless Atmos carried in a Dolby TrueHD stream".

Quote:
So, it's not TRUE (lossless audio) Atmos but it is an upgrade over the regular 5.1 Dolby Digital I had before.
Ah, I see. I think you are labouring under the misapprehension that Atmos is only a lossless format because you called the lossless version "TRUE" Atmos. This is not correct.

Both the lossy and lossless streams are TRUE Atmos carrying object-based audio. The only difference is in the compression of the audio!

Atmos metadata can EITHER be carried in:
  • a DD+ stream
  • or a TrueHD stream,
  • or in PCM as an uncompressed Dolby MAT 2.0 audio stream.

All of these are TRUE Atmos.

If you want to talk about what is lossless and what is not lossless, that is a different topic completely but not really relevant to Atmos, it's a perennial discussion. Sadly, I don't think streaming services will ever care enough to offer lossless audio, so there was always going to be a requirement for a lossy 3D audio format.

Equally, DTS:X is not only a lossless object-based format.
"DTS:X Master Audio" is the lossless one, based around a DTS-HD Master Audio stream.
"DTS:X" is the lossy one, based around the little-used DTS-HD High Resolution Audio stream. This was mentioned in the DTS:X launch press release, but took everyone by surprise when it got used on a Blu-Ray disc (a movie about people driving too quickly). But it's been there all along, just like Atmos-with-DD+ has. HTH

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HDMI 2.0 4K modes | Dolby & DTS core+outer audio tracks on (UHD) Blu-Rays | Hello to Jason Isaacs

Last edited by mrtickleuk; 12-09-2018 at 06:28 AM.
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post #9685 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 06:28 AM
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Just got the update Windows 10 October update (1809) and it messed up my config (well reset the Nvidia panel to use windows default). I have been struggling A LOT since I got my LG C8 with HDR related issues. It seems this latest update finally got HDR right according to a few people.

So far the best solution had been to keep the Windows HDR toggle off and use MPC+LAV+MADVR to get HDR content in excl full screen. I am running the TV in 'PC' mode with the PC icone selected because otherwise, the black levels were way off in HDR (major black crush) even though Nvidia was supposedly outputing in 4:2:2 12 bit Limited (vs Full). This also worked ok for some games (AC Odyssey) and not for others (Shadow of the Tomb raider). With the toggle off, any non-fullscreen content wouldn't work with HDR either.

If I now turn the toggle on, Windows looks ok (previously there would be some HDR induced issues in SDR content, icons with weird colors etc) and I do see the output being set to RGB 8 bit (with dithering) HDR Color space by default when browsing online. However, because the TV detects a permanent HDR color space signal, it sets itself in HDR Mode (Technicolor Expert) regardless of the content being played - no more HDR logo popping up to confirm all is working ok. I'm concerned that HDR isn't kicking in as it should (ie, switching to 4:2:2 and 12 bit vs staying limited to 8 bit which would work but be sub optimal).Anyway I can test this to get confirmation some how ? I'd like to find some sample Dolby Vision content as I don't have any readily available.

My other concern is that if I leave the toggle on, the TV remains permenantly in HDR mode which by default has OLED light level set to 100 (which I understand should be this way for HDR to work optimally). Am I at risk on prematurely damaging the panel vs running in SDR mode with OLED light set to 60 like I usually am or is the windows brightness setting newly implement for SDR content while in HDR mode effectively balancing things out ?

THanks!
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post #9686 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Sort of, but I would write that as "whereas the Atmos coming out of my Blu Ray player is lossless Atmos carried in a Dolby TrueHD stream".



Ah, I see. I think you are labouring under the misapprehension that Atmos is only a lossless format because you called the lossless version "TRUE" Atmos. This is not correct.

Both the lossy and lossless streams are TRUE Atmos carrying object-based audio. The only difference is in the compression of the audio!

Atmos metadata can EITHER be carried in:
  • a DD+ stream
  • or a TrueHD stream,
  • or in PCM as an uncompressed Dolby MAT 2.0 audio stream.

All of these are TRUE Atmos.

If you want to talk about what is lossless and what is not lossless, that is a different topic completely but not really relevant to Atmos, it's a perennial discussion. Sadly, I don't think streaming services will ever care enough to offer lossless audio, so there was always going to be a requirement for a lossy 3D audio format.

Equally, DTS:X is not only a lossless object-based format.
"DTS:X Master Audio" is the lossless one, based around a DTS-HD Master Audio stream.
"DTS:X" is the lossy one, based around the little-used DTS-HD High Resolution Audio stream. This was mentioned in the DTS:X launch press release, but took everyone by surprise when it got used on a Blu-Ray disc (a movie about people driving too quickly). But it's been there all along, just like Atmos-with-DD+ has. HTH

Haha yeah I understand this....I was responding to someone else at maybe 1am...so probably not written how I intended. I understand that Atmos is there whether it is lossy or lossless, but I think the answer the person I was responding to was looking to see if it was Dolby TrueHD. I may be wrong....like I said, 1am post lol. And I think you are right with streaming, I think it would take to much bandwidth to get lossless audio on streaming, but I am not that calibrated to hear the difference between Dolby Digital+ Atmos and Doly TrueHD lossless Atmos lol.
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Last edited by RavenBF; 12-09-2018 at 06:42 AM.
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post #9687 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 06:52 AM
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All good
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HDMI 2.0 4K modes | Dolby & DTS core+outer audio tracks on (UHD) Blu-Rays | Hello to Jason Isaacs
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post #9688 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 07:51 AM
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So I have a Denon x3300 and c8. What’s the easiest way to set up arc? I only want to use it for tv apps. Everything else runs through the AVR first.

I have arc output from my x3300 to hdmi2.
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post #9689 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chengka View Post
I thought I was crazy, but I see the same overbright picture after the update too. I tried resetting the presets to no avail. I'll try unplugging the set.

Early on in the rollout of the updated firmware, a few people on these forums reported a brighter picture. They described it as an "improved" picture; one person said "Good job LG!"


After other people updated with no changes to the picture, these earlier comments were written of as the panacea effect.


Makes me wonder if what you and I saw is a possible side effect of this update, and the people whose "improvements" were written off as the "panacea effect" were actually seeing something thing, but had different preferences for their picture on an uncalibrated set.
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post #9690 of 19336 Old 12-09-2018, 08:44 AM
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Just in case anyone doesn't know, the newest C8 update(also W8 & E8) is on LG's website

https://www.lg.com/us/support-produc...5C8PUA#manuals

[04.10.15]
1. To improve that the subtitle is not displayed when HbbTV app in on. (except US Model)
2. Change HDR luminance curve. (webOS4.0 O18 Model)
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Living Room: LG 65C8, AVR Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro, Nintendo Switch
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Link to LG C8PUA Firmware https://www.lg.com/us/support-produc...5C8PUA#manuals
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