Yes it would & I hate doing that. I don't like editing any film's aspect ratio simply to fill the 16x9 screen but it might be wise as it would prevent letterbox burn-in.

I don't quite have 100 hours on my C8, yet. So, it's not precisely adjusted at the moment.

However, I notice a shift in color temperature when I view the set off-axis. It's not a shift in contrast like with an LCD, but just color. Some seats in the living room won't see natural skin tones, but seats in the center, will!

I thought that wasn't supposed to happen with OLED?

Thanks in advance for your input.

What is letterbox burn-in and has this become a real issue in the black bands above and below?

There is some slight shift off-axis. If you have difference in uniformity across the screen, that could also make this more pronounced. If your uniformity looks reasonably good, then I would say this is normal.

I haven't noticed uniformity issues. I just wasn't expecting this. Thanks.

Interesting. I don't see that at all with our 65 C8.

There can be a blue to green shift off axis. But compare that colors and blacks are still saturated and deep unlike that far off axis on led tvs.

I don't see it either, but maybe everyone's eye is different, so maybe @mediaseth needs to put a meter to it to see if that his color is an issue off axis.

I'd probably push for an exchange. I have seen the slight blue tint off angle on OLED in whites but never noticed that in skin tones.

R-Ting's multi-year burn-in test has comprehensively debunked the myth of "letterbox burn-in" anyway.

https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real...d-burn-in-test

My advice if it's really bothering you, but otherwise you have a good sample is to see if you can reproduce it at a store. If you are sensitive enough to see it ( I know I can detect it) than at least you can decide to keep your good sample and live with it, or possibly choose a different display. It would really suck to do an exchange, get a worse panel, and still see the shift.

That's what I don't want to risk. When it's just the three of us watching, no one is off-axis. Having people over, we'll have to give the guests the good seats. Or perhaps, they won't see what I see...

I'm having some issues with the CEC (Simplink) with my AVR and Nvidia ShieldTV. I like being able to use ARC for audio but the CEC has some annoying behaviors, mainly if I exit an LG webOS app like Netflix it changes the input of my AVR (Pioneer LX503) to the input of the Shield and turns on the Shield. I don't want CEC to do anything (I have a Harmony remote so it just messes things up when CEC turns things on and changes inputs) but it seems I can't disable CEC without losing the ability to do ARC. The LX503 doesn't seem to have a way to disable CEC without losing ARC and I disabled the CEC power on/off functions of the Shield but the TV still switches the input on the AVR to the Shield input. Has anyone else experienced this and does anyone have a solution? If I unplug the Shield then it doesn't change the inputs. Is my only option to get an adapter that disables the CEC pins? I guess I could go optical from the TV but then I lose Atmos. I wish the TV or AVR had an ARC only option but I can't seem to find any such option on either.

I would say about 90% of our viewing on my E8 is through the built-in apps, Netflix, Amazon, Hulu, Vudu, Google Play, YouTube. I don't recall any HDR10 content but I've watched lots of Dolby Vision on everything but Hulu. Haven't found an issue with the TV playing anything back. I was thinking about going with a streaming device but have put that on the backburner as long as WebOS does the job.

That worked for my Sony player thank you so much. Do you know any tricks with Apple TV and cec? It keeps turning on and I’ve gone into that apple setting and turned it off but still comes on

Some more modern devices allow you to have CEC without ARC (my Denon 4200W doesn't). I think CEC is required for the discovery/handshaking part of ARC (but with the mistakes I've been making this week, don't take that as a fact please!).

I've just done a quick test, I can turn CEC off, and then ARC on without CEC and I get sound from the YouTube app. The TV thinks that "Simplink" is still on.

So I would agree - in the absence of any other information - that a "CEC disabler" adaptor could be the answer for you, it would simulate the "CEC off, ARC on" configuration. But I'd wait to see what others say first

Back in the old days, before Harmony, we solved that the old fashioned way. Sometimes, we had to write a note listing steps when changing inputs.
I guess if you change inputs often, that could be a hassle.

This can be fixed on the Shield. This is from memory, so forgive me, but go to Settings > Display & Sound, then head to the CEC section. There are 2 toggles there, one of which will solve this issue. It says something like "Prevent Shield from changing input" or something. Give that a shot.

CEC is still a major pain in the a$$ as others have pointed out, due to lack of protocol standardization. If you don't have individual control over ARC and CEC on ALL of your HDMI connected devices then you can either disable ARC/CEC altogether and use a Harmony remote (which means you will lose ARC) or you can use a Lindy CEC-less adapter, which disables CEC on the device it is connected to, and continue to use ARC. It's not a guarantee but it does seem to work for a lot of folks.

Thanks mrtickleuk! There's been so many posts about burn-in causing me to be very cautious how much letterbox movies we have watched & now relieved I don't need to be.

My burn-in concerns turns out to be a NON issue. Mrtickleuk's post indicates that RTINGS.com testing has proved burn-in isn't an issue anymore.The video explains why. Sorry if I may have mislead anyone.

Not an issue for letterbox movies. You still need to avoid leaving bright static content on-screen etc! Take the whole rtings experiment together 🙂

If you have a Harmony, it only takes a second to hit a button and change the input again to what you want it to be. Even with the cec-less adapters, which I have on ALL devices, my LG sometimes switches to the wrong audio input or av port...I just press the button on the Harmony for the input I want and it changes again.


HDfury is coming out with three new devices that will extract and forward the ARC to any av port. You might want to look into that.

I am posting this seperately, since so many above seem to be having trouble with ARC and CEC. I received the following email from HDfury that some may want to look into:


We managed to complete ARC key feature, it will be available as standalone device shortly.
It can extract ARC and eARC (HDMI2.1 up to ATMOS high bit rate over True HD) and forward to any AVR input.


Currently this feature is available from upcoming HDfury Maestro, upcoming HDfury Diva (to be announced shortly) and upcoming HDfury Vertex2.

Although I haven't set up my 2018 55C8, I'm in the process of trying to get things ready. At this moment I'm planning on simply using the LG remote to directly control the Hotwire box. The box will be located within a wood draw and I'd like to know (make sure) that the remote (https://www.lg.com/us/tv-audio-video...emote-control#) will work through the wood draw. I spoke with Hotwire and they said it would if I got RF adapter from them for $25, but I'd like to make sure that the remote's signal can go through the wood draw and accepted by the Hotwire box (with adapter.) Thanks.

For those of you on the fence about upgrading from Plasma to the C8, I just returned my C8 and hooked up my 11 year old Kuro 141FD. Although the C8 is brighter with higher resolution, the image on the Pioneer is more pleasing in many other ways. Much smoother and more realistic colors IMO. Appears to have considerably more depth. For me, definitely not a $3000 upgrade. Hopefully the C9 will change things as I don't know how much longer I will have with my Kuro.

What picture mode did you use on the C8?

Thats so old. No 4k. No HDR Dolby vision and atmos, no technicolor hdr that no one uses but the c8 can do it... and the apps, so many APPS, and the IQ tech because i need to control my washer not just with the 16 too many cycles by lg with my fingers, and not jusg through an app, i need to tell my lg tv to wash delicates and extra rinse!!! How do you survive???


In all seriousness your TV cant handle 4k, HDR, smart connectivity, apps... that said i dont know what your sound scenario is. Drop the $$... now i havent looked at c9 rumors so i cant tell you to wait but the c8 is not getting much cheaper and it does everything... like looks great, is not 7k for an oled and seems pretty futureproof.

If you can grab a 2018 Nakamichi 9.2.4 Shockwafe or 7.2 Shockwafe Elite: these models are exactly the same as the 2019 models that are coming... the same hardware with newer firmware that is being given for free to the 2018 owners. You can pay 550-900 now or 1600+ when all stock is gone and Nakamichi sends the new series: same hardware as 2018 with their new firmware built in... wanna pay 700 more for not having to get a 2018 version if you can and upgrade a firmware yourself? it even says these are the same and will have the exaxt same performance.

The nakamichi shockwafe has dts x, dts the rest, dolby atmos and all the dolby rest, has 3 hdmi inputs to plug into and arc that passes all video 4k hdr and dolby vision while processing all of the sound types you could need, bluetooth, neural x and dolby surround which can a 2 channel pcm and blow it up rediculously never mind dolby and dts tech.

2018 and 2019 CES Best in show

11 years, the lg c8 IS THE TV that processes things i did not know existed, you gotta have the sound go with it.

Like a bed or a phone, bug money drop, its time to cycle to the 21st century. And right now you can probably save 1500 for only a couple weeks if you can find stock.

As for c9, will it make me breakfast? Of course it will be better somehow. But the c8 is good for years. I dont see anyone buying anything else for a reason.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Thats the question... lots of BS to turn off to make it look like it should... and modes... then again it was the first tv i looked at out of the box and actually was very surprised how good it looked... then i changed modes and disabled everything but dynamic tone mapping and hdmi deep color... even better.

Btw did i say 4k and hdr? Its 2019. Not a dis, its serious encouragement to use the opportunities right now for this person to upgrade.

0h yeah... 65INCH dont 55 it.

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I have the C8 and a Pioneer 151. In a dim room watching cable the 151 is still a great TV. I can relate to the smoother part as you are not upscaling HD content to a 4K resolution plus I love the Plasma dithering process for low light scenes. The C8 still does a commendable job at upscaling. The Kuro’s have great colors but the C8 also excels in this area especially in Technicolor mode. I don’t think the C9 will drastically change anything. The C8 does what the Kuro does plus adds so much more to the table like perfect blacks, HDR and Dolby Vision 4K content, Smart TV apps and the list goes on. In my house I watch the C8 100% of the time and the 151 is in another room that other family members watch periodically. Maybe OLED pricing will come down enough for you to eventually make the switch. Buy if you are used to a Kuro only OLED will make you happy going forward.