2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 452 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13531 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post
Yes. Did it recognize it immediately or did it take a little while for it to recognize it? It immediately sees I plugged the USB drive in, but never does anything after closing the prompt for the photo/video app.

Also, did you use the USB port on the side or on the back of the TV? Can’t access the back port due to it being wall mounted.

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I used the back port it went through fine

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post #13532 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
You may have to consider replacing the soundbar with a receiver and using the receiver as your hub and not the C8. Atmos via ARC can be sketchy at times. Besides, the best you can do with Atmos via ARC is lossy Atmos.
Thanks. After this 77C8 I am not allowed to spend a penny on any HT related equipment this year so I am hoping to make the best use of my current setup. So even if it's lossy, is anyone able to use arc setup to get Atmos working on any soundbar?
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post #13533 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post
Yes. Did it recognize it immediately or did it take a little while for it to recognize it? It immediately sees I plugged the USB drive in, but never does anything after closing the prompt for the photo/video app.

Also, did you use the USB port on the side or on the back of the TV? Can’t access the back port due to it being wall mounted.
I used the top, back-facing port. It immediately saw the update and prompted me to install it.

Sorry that this isn't good news. =(
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post #13534 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post
Yes. Did it recognize it immediately or did it take a little while for it to recognize it? It immediately sees I plugged the USB drive in, but never does anything after closing the prompt for the photo/video app.

Also, did you use the USB port on the side or on the back of the TV? Can’t access the back port due to it being wall mounted.

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It seems you just didn't do something right. I updated from the side usb port.

If the tv sees your usb stick, then do the following.

download the zip file onto your pc. then make a new folder on your PC and name it

LG_DTV

unzip the file you downloaded into the new folder you made.

Insert the USB and follow the on screen prompts.

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post #13535 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Hurin View Post
Okay, updated via downloaded file from LG website.

Here's my findings on my OLED65C8 purchased from Costco in December. It has no professional calibration. Settings can be found in my post history a few posts back. . .

I was initially concerned because the "flashing squares" test still flashed. . . and when viewing the "NearBlack16-27" test, there was actually some flicker in the upper-left quadrant of the screen when peering very closely at the screen (but not at seating distance of about 10 feet). It was a "diffuse flicker" thought and not flashing of any particular block.

However, both the Handmaid's Tale scene and the scene in the 4K HDR Blu-ray of Solo were flicker-free. They looked great.

So, since I don't watch test slides and instead watch shows and movies, I'd call this a success.

I'm tempted to say that I lost a tiny bit of shadow detail. But I can't say that for sure and none of the test slides back this up. I know better than to trust my memory alone in the absence of a meter. It's all so subjective and if I expect it to be darker, I'll believe it's darker.

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post #13536 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Hurin View Post
I used the top, back-facing port. It immediately saw the update and prompted me to install it.

Sorry that this isn't good news. =(
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Originally Posted by Jrocker23 View Post
It seems you just didn't do something right. I updated from the side usb port.

If the tv sees your usb stick, then do the following.

download the zip file onto your pc. then make a new folder on your PC and name it

LG_DTV

unzip the file you downloaded into the new folder you made.

Insert the USB and follow the on screen prompts.

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I threw the file on an external HDD and the update is running now. No idea as to why the USB flash drive didn't work. Followed the steps exactly and it just would not work. Oh well.
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post #13537 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 10:04 AM
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Can someone point me to the test file that shows the flashing? I'd like to do a before and after check before installing the firmware. Thanks.

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post #13538 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post
I threw the file on an external HDD and the update is running now. No idea as to why the USB flash drive didn't work. Followed the steps exactly and it just would not work. Oh well.
Very possible the USB stick wasnt totally compatible or not formatted properly. No biggie, you got it..

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post #13539 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 10:33 AM
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I think this update may have had other underlying improvements. Just did a quick autocal with a lightning lut and results are pretty solid compared to past readings. Didn't have time to look at content really, but i did have to redo calibration to get black levels correct again. Otherwise, I had to raise brightness almost 6 clicks on my set




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post #13540 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Wjboshart View Post
I think this update may have had other underlying improvements. Just did a quick autocal with a lightning lut and results are pretty solid compared to past readings. Didn't have time to look at content really, but i did have to redo calibration to get black levels correct again. Otherwise, I had to raise brightness almost 6 clicks on my set




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That’s excellent for a lightning lut .


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post #13541 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by pwiss View Post
Did the update late night and was able to do limited testing but here is what I noticed:

-My brightness settings of 50 and gamma of BT1886 on the AVS 709 and Near Black test patterns stayed exactly the same as before the update. No black crush. I guess I was kinda hoping for some as I would have known my panel had room for improvement the update would provide.

-On JK82's 9 square test pattern the top row and the middle right square are not flashing now. Before all 9 squares flashed. So some improvement there.

-My campfire test scene of the 4K Revenant still was a blocky mess with no improvement at all. Like before I have to lower brightness to 49 to get rid of the mess in the upper right corner above the fire.

-My Bluray test scene in Skyfall similar to before the update but not nearly as bad as my first C8.

So far not the magic fix-all I was hoping for. I think the black crush issue must be panel based. I still need to watch low bitrate Comcast content to see how much it might have helped in that area.

Glad to see you updated your C8 and posted your results/impressions. Still haven't done mine yet but given your post I just may go ahead and update. A good show to watch on Comcrap might be The Orville. Lots of contrasting dark scenes, explosions, the usual space stuff. Looks really good on mine so I don't think I'll notice any difference but if there are even subtle positive changes on mine, it might be worth it.
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post #13542 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Wjboshart View Post
I think this update may have had other underlying improvements. Just did a quick autocal with a lightning lut and results are pretty solid compared to past readings.
This dovetails with my own experience, loving this update! I'm reticent to make use of the lightening LUT though, past experience has shown that only the matrix option sidesteps any banding issues. Has this changed since the update? In my opinion linearity trumps absolute color fidelity.

Another interesting side effect I've noted, at the lower levels, the image has taken on a plasma like presentation. I would guess due to dithering being introduced to improve gradation? I did move from a plasma to OLED so I may be biased, but I really like the look.
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post #13543 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by isingh View Post
Thanks. After this 77C8 I am not allowed to spend a penny on any HT related equipment this year so I am hoping to make the best use of my current setup. So even if it's lossy, is anyone able to use arc setup to get Atmos working on any soundbar?

When I was building out the theater room upstairs I was given a generous budget to work with (WAF) so in addition to the C8, I upgraded the audio system as well with all new components, including a UHD blu-ray player and ATV4k. I even had an electrician hardwire the system to the downstairs router.

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post #13544 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
That’s excellent for a lightning lut .


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And just as ken said, did a 42 pt grayscale with no issue


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post #13545 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackvette94 View Post
*edit*

* I am not 100% sure if this removes abl or tricks the tv into allowing hdr type brightness for sdr content, either way the brightness for sdr goes up by 50% or more regardless what is on the screen.

I do not recommend going into the service menu, if you do it is on you as it may void your warranty*

On the 2018 Oled C8, you can possibly now turn off ABL or increase the brightness by over 50% with below change in the service menu.

I have an LG service remote, you have to put in the 4 digit code ( 0413 ). Go to oled in the service menu and select hdr , it is set to normal. Set it to on. After this ABL on SDR content is turned off, I have confirmed this on PC mode. No increase in input lag ( still 21ms ).

To give you an idea on what the screen looks like with ABL off, using bfi with an oled light of 70, is brighter then bfi off with oled light at 100!!! Its a massive difference! Beforehand at 70 oled it would look like about 30 oled with bfi off.
I was digging around and found this old post. Besides digging through the service menu (which I really don't want to do) is there anyway to increase the max brightness of SDR material, like past the 250-300 nits range? I'm not unhappy with the TV at all but would like just a bit more backlight* boost for 720p/1080p material (in ISF Bright Room mode).

If there isn't a way, past increasing OLED Light, is there a preset that unlocks higher peak brightness, even if it's not quite as calibrated?

*And I know OLED's don't have a backlight but it's that type of measurement I want to increase.

Last edited by chronomac; 03-21-2019 at 11:33 AM.
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post #13546 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:25 AM
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And just as ken said, did a 42 pt grayscale with no issue


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Guess I’ll be breaking out the meter later


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post #13547 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
When I was building out the theater room upstairs I was given a generous budget to work with (WAF) so in addition to the C8, I upgraded the audio system as well with all new components, including a UHD blu-ray player and ATV4k. I even had an electrician hardwire the system to the downstairs router.
lol So I do have my man cave in basement with Klipsch RP series speakers with atmos setup and SONY projector. And I did spend decent money 2 years ago on that. This TV is in our living room, and soundbar was j to give a cleaner look. Wifey is not open to spend more for everyday TV experience :P

I am still digging in earlier posts to get a good answer on how folks could get atmos to work through Arc. I am not sure if it's Samsung Soundbar issue.
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post #13548 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Masters View Post
This dovetails with my own experience, loving this update! I'm reticent to make use of the lightening LUT though, past experience has shown that only the matrix option sidesteps any banding issues. Has this changed since the update? In my opinion linearity trumps absolute color fidelity.



Another interesting side effect I've noted, at the lower levels, the image has taken on a plasma like presentation. I would guess due to dithering being introduced to improve gradation? I did move from a plasma to OLED so I may be biased, but I really like the look.


Have you done a lut with 3500 points or more ? Still see banding ?


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post #13549 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 11:54 AM
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I've been loving my 65c8 for about a week now, and I've been reading here and around the internet about an issue I'm having. I'm hoping I've missed an easy solution for it. Whenever I turn on my system, or have my newly programmed Harmony turn on my system, my DTV DVR comes up as the input (as I want it to)... but a few seconds later it switches to my ATV4k (as I don't want it to). I've noticed the c8 lists the Apple TV as a sub device of HDMI 2, and thats confusing me. All my devices are HDMI into my Yamaha AVR, which has an HDMI out going into the c8's HDMI #2 with ARC.

I've read about devices that might fix this and breaking certain HDMI pins, and I'm hoping theres an easier fix or work-around.
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post #13550 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 12:06 PM
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I've been loving my 65c8 for about a week now, and I've been reading here and around the internet about an issue I'm having. I'm hoping I've missed an easy solution for it. Whenever I turn on my system, or have my newly programmed Harmony turn on my system, my DTV DVR comes up as the input (as I want it to)... but a few seconds later it switches to my ATV4k (as I don't want it to). I've noticed the c8 lists the Apple TV as a sub device of HDMI 2, and thats confusing me. All my devices are HDMI into my Yamaha AVR, which has an HDMI out going into the c8's HDMI #2 with ARC.

I've read about devices that might fix this and breaking certain HDMI pins, and I'm hoping theres an easier fix or work-around.
Had this exact same thing happen to me with my C8 and yamaha processor (CX-A5000). Using the Arc from the C8 back into the yamaha was the culprit I believe. I shut this feature off and the problem went away although the switching is still slow and HDMI 2 flashes on the screen for a moment before the picture appears. My upcoming solution, I have a Yamaha CX-A5200 on order. I wanted all of my sources (4k Kodi, 4k firestick, etc) to pass through the yamaha rather than using ARC.
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post #13551 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 12:18 PM
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I've been loving my 65c8 for about a week now, and I've been reading here and around the internet about an issue I'm having. I'm hoping I've missed an easy solution for it. Whenever I turn on my system, or have my newly programmed Harmony turn on my system, my DTV DVR comes up as the input (as I want it to)... but a few seconds later it switches to my ATV4k (as I don't want it to). I've noticed the c8 lists the Apple TV as a sub device of HDMI 2, and thats confusing me. All my devices are HDMI into my Yamaha AVR, which has an HDMI out going into the c8's HDMI #2 with ARC.

I've read about devices that might fix this and breaking certain HDMI pins, and I'm hoping theres an easier fix or work-around.
If you are using ARC, then you also have HDMI-CEC enabled. This is what caused the input to switch on the AVR.
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post #13552 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 12:22 PM
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I've been loving my 65c8 for about a week now, and I've been reading here and around the internet about an issue I'm having. I'm hoping I've missed an easy solution for it. Whenever I turn on my system, or have my newly programmed Harmony turn on my system, my DTV DVR comes up as the input (as I want it to)... but a few seconds later it switches to my ATV4k (as I don't want it to). I've noticed the c8 lists the Apple TV as a sub device of HDMI 2, and thats confusing me. All my devices are HDMI into my Yamaha AVR, which has an HDMI out going into the c8's HDMI with ARC.

I've read about devices that might fix this and breaking certain HDMI pins, and I'm hoping theres an easier fix or work-around.
This exact same thing was happening to me on my Denon X3400 the last two days, was driving me nuts! I ended up turning off the ARC (CEC?) controls on the Denon and it finally fixed it.. My C8 77 was also showing the ATV4K as a subset of the input. This was all happening with my Harmony Elite..
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post #13553 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 12:23 PM
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What did you click, Cam?

Thanks
Apologies...brightness setting.
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post #13554 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 01:01 PM
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Have you done a lut with 3500 points or more ? Still see banding ?


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That I haven't done, based on the feedback from other users - only Matrix and Lightening.
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post #13555 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 01:05 PM
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That I haven't done, based on the feedback from other users - only Matrix and Lightening.


Okay thanks for replying was just curious , I am still on the fence on the effectiveness of the larger luts have gotten mixed results .


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post #13556 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 01:46 PM
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so if i update to new C8 firmware (not calibrated), but i use technicolor/isf expert, i'll need to up my brightness by a few clicks?
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post #13557 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 01:48 PM
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so if i update to new C8 firmware (not calibrated), but i use technicolor/isf expert, i'll need to up my brightness by a few clicks?
It's up to you. You don't have too if you like the picture. People are just adjusting to personal preference

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post #13558 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarguy316 View Post
so if i update to new C8 firmware (not calibrated), but i use technicolor/isf expert, i'll need to up my brightness by a few clicks?
It depends on the variances of your individual panel whether you'll need to adjust it or not, and by how much if so.

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post #13559 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarguy316 View Post
so if i update to new C8 firmware (not calibrated), but i use technicolor/isf expert, i'll need to up my brightness by a few clicks?
It's up to you. You don't have too if you like the picture. People are just adjusting to personal preference

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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarguy316 View Post
so if i update to new C8 firmware (not calibrated), but i use technicolor/isf expert, i'll need to up my brightness by a few clicks?
It depends on the variances of your individual panel whether you'll need to adjust it or not, and by how much if so.
Gotcha but this update is safe to use? My tv isn’t calibrated so...I thought I saw some panic about updating since they messed with lower end of gamma?
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post #13560 of 21625 Old 03-21-2019, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ItzMe View Post
I've been loving my 65c8 for about a week now, and I've been reading here and around the internet about an issue I'm having. I'm hoping I've missed an easy solution for it. Whenever I turn on my system, or have my newly programmed Harmony turn on my system, my DTV DVR comes up as the input (as I want it to)... but a few seconds later it switches to my ATV4k (as I don't want it to). I've noticed the c8 lists the Apple TV as a sub device of HDMI 2, and thats confusing me. All my devices are HDMI into my Yamaha AVR, which has an HDMI out going into the c8's HDMI #2 with ARC.

I've read about devices that might fix this and breaking certain HDMI pins, and I'm hoping theres an easier fix or work-around.

If you're using a Harmony remote to control your system (as I do) then you should be disabling CEC so you don't have input-switching issues. If you need ARC (I don't), then you can leave ARC enabled on your systems and use the Lindy CECless Adapter to disable CEC for that input. Keep in mind that some devices do not allow for individual control of ARC/CEC so you either disable or enable both. The Lindy adapter does seem to work well for some, for others not so much.
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