2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 480 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14371 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
Hands down, the safest way to clean your panel is with warm distilled water and a high quality microfiber cloth. For weekly dusting I just use a Swifter Sweeper Non-Scented refill. Works great and doesn't leave any residue or streaks. If you have "peanut butter" prints on your panel or live in a smoky environment you might want to consider a good quality eye glass cleaner but use it very sparingly.


As to your Technicolor question, I still use Warm 1 with bt.1866.
Thanks so much for the quick response! I get so nervous thinking about putting water on it at all.. lol I don’t know what the heck could’ve made these dots. Oddly enough the last TV I had got the same exact thing but it was 2 dots instead of 3.. In order to get them off even with water I think I’d need to apply a fair amount of pressure.. which I hate to think of doing for delicate pixels. Am thinking of just leaving them.. what’s your opinion? Do you think it’s affecting the PQ/pixels enough to warrant me trying it?

Thanks so very much!
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post #14372 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post
One odd behavior I've noted is that when watching a news channel like Fox, the picture will gradually dim. The usual suspects, eco & the logo adjustments are turned off. Is this something that's not defeatable? It doesn't look like traditional ABL that responds very quickly to large expanses of high luminance, this is a slower decrease in brightness with a rather static scene.



On a more positive note, I'm extremely impressed with the uniformity at low luminance values. This is the best of the 3 panels I have, a B6, G7 and the C8. It certainly seems that LG is improving uniformity with each succeeding generation.


You can turn off asbl in the service menu , there is a thread that details how to do it .


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post #14373 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mark_42 View Post
Does anyone have the previous firmware file that the could PM a person or know where one could find it?

Thanks
Look at this post of mine.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post57811528
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post #14374 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 09:41 PM
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You can turn off asbl in the service menu , there is a thread that details how to do it .


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What’s interesting is I see no evidence of that on my 77G7. I don’t think my B6 did it either. If they did, it must have been more subtle. Normal ABL sure, but I can’t recall seeing this gradual dimming based on a static scene.
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post #14375 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 09:56 PM
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2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post
What’s interesting is I see no evidence of that on my 77G7. I don’t think my B6 did it either. If they did, it must have been more subtle. Normal ABL sure, but I can’t recall seeing this gradual dimming based on a static scene.


Yeah it might be a tad more aggressive Ion the 8 series. Fortunately it’s easy to turn off


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Last edited by chunon; 03-29-2019 at 10:02 PM.
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post #14376 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
Thanks so much for the quick response! I get so nervous thinking about putting water on it at all.. lol I don’t know what the heck could’ve made these dots. Oddly enough the last TV I had got the same exact thing but it was 2 dots instead of 3.. In order to get them off even with water I think I’d need to apply a fair amount of pressure.. which I hate to think of doing for delicate pixels. Am thinking of just leaving them.. what’s your opinion? Do you think it’s affecting the PQ/pixels enough to warrant me trying it?

Thanks so very much!
You would soak a high quality microfiber cloth in warm distilled water, squeegee it good, and then use that to gently wipe down your panel and then dry it with a dry, clean, high quality microfiber cloth. I rarely clean my panel with distilled water because there isn't a need to do so. I just dust weekly with the Swifter Sweeper Un-Scented refill.

As far as the two bumps, it almost sounds like a protective cover coming off but I didn't think the C8's had a reflective cover overlayed on the panel. Maybe something splashed on the panel? Try to gently scrape it off with your fingernails. Does it affect pq at all?

If you can't notice them when viewing your panel, and can't get them off easily, or are apprehensive about being slightly aggressive, I'd just leave them alone. Were they there when you first setup your tv?

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post #14377 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
You would soak a high quality microfiber cloth in warm distilled water, squeegee it good, and then use that to gently wipe down your panel and then dry it with a dry, clean, high quality microfiber cloth. I rarely clean my panel with distilled water because there isn't a need to do so. I just dust weekly with the Swifter Sweeper Un-Scented refill.

As far as the two bumps, it almost sounds like a protective cover coming off but I didn't think the C8's had a reflective cover overlayed on the panel. Maybe something splashed on the panel? Try to gently scrape it off with your fingernails. Does it affect pq at all?

If you can't notice them when viewing your panel, and can't get them off easily, or are apprehensive about being slightly aggressive, I'd just leave them alone. Were they there when you first setup your tv?
Zero chance of it being liquid or anything close to that. I never have anything near the TV. When I dust it looked brand new up until I noticed those dots. I know the tv I had before this had protective coating and it looks EXACTLY like these little bubbles. I dust it weekly and only noticed it about a couple of weeks ago. So confused by it.

Well, the color behind the dots still appears just more faintly underneath the dots. From for away I see no PQ effect. They’re like a very thin layer. Also I noticed in the center of each of the three dots there’s like a teenie tiny little pinhole look. Like an insect bite. I feel like it’s super risky to try and use my fingernail on it and I’m thinking even a good amount of pressure wouldn’t do any good.. it’s scrapable I think. Which I can’t on the screen. I just wish I knew what caused it on this one as well as my KS8000. Makes absolutely no sense to me as I’ve said I make sure it looks brand new with dusting monthly.
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post #14378 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
Zero chance of it being liquid or anything close to that. I never have anything near the TV. When I dust it looked brand new up until I noticed those dots. I know the tv I had before this had protective coating and it looks EXACTLY like these little bubbles. I dust it weekly and only noticed it about a couple of weeks ago. So confused by it.

Well, the color behind the dots still appears just more faintly underneath the dots. From for away I see no PQ effect. They’re like a very thin layer. Also I noticed in the center of each of the three dots there’s like a teenie tiny little pinhole look. Like an insect bite. I feel like it’s super risky to try and use my fingernail on it and I’m thinking even a good amount of pressure wouldn’t do any good.. it’s scrapable I think. Which I can’t on the screen. I just wish I knew what caused it on this one as well as my KS8000. Makes absolutely no sense to me as I’ve said I make sure it looks brand new with dusting monthly.
Then leave it alone and ignore it if it doesn't affect pq. Did you take the static protective covering off that they put on for shipping purposes? I just looked carefully at my C8 and I don't see anything like that. I do remember the installers peeling off the protective coverings once they unpacked my panel and set it on the media console.

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post #14379 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
Then leave it alone and ignore it if it doesn't affect pq. Did you take the static protective covering off that they put on for shipping purposes? I just looked carefully at my C8 and I don't see anything like that. I do remember the installers peeling off the protective coverings once they unpacked my panel and set it on the media console.
It definitely has to be affecting the vibrancy of the pixels for sure though. I just wish I knew what was going on. Since it happened to my last TV too. Oh yeah I absolutely peeled that off. I so greatly appreciate you looking at yours for me.
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post #14380 of 22584 Old 03-29-2019, 11:44 PM
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I understand the Technicolor preset has a special white point to be used. For the best (IMO) for HDR content being Technicolor as well does it still stay at Warm 1 for most accuracy?
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post #14381 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
I understand the Technicolor preset has a special white point to be used. For the best (IMO) for HDR content being Technicolor as well does it still stay at Warm 1 for most accuracy?
Warm 2 is the most accurate preset
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post #14382 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by chronitis View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
I understand the Technicolor preset has a special white point to be used. For the best (IMO) for HDR content being Technicolor as well does it still stay at Warm 1 for most accuracy?
Warm 2 is the most accurate preset
Is this just for Technicolor for HDR content then or am I to use Warm 2 with the Technicolor preset for SDR material also? It was my understanding that after a FW update it was more accurate to use Warm 1 with Technicolor and still warm 2 for ISF modes. Which is also why after a FW update now they defaulted Warm 1 when it used to be Warm 2 for Technicolor mode. Is this not true? Warm 1 on Technicolor is warmer than Warm 1 on ISF modes.Trying to determine how this plays into HDR content with Technicolor if any of this information is accurate?

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post #14383 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
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Originally Posted by chronitis View Post
Are you calibrating with just the two point adjustments? You can get that grayscale flat with a little more work
No way. You can't do 2pt or 20pt adjustments in HDR. It's Autocal 1DLUT with Calman. I'm thrilled with the results with all but one of the dE's below 1 for balance (top-left graph). You can't take luminance into account because of tone-mapping, which is why the graph below it looks worse.

The greyscale with luminance isn't supposed to be "flat" because of tone-mapping, this is HDR. It is was perfectly flat it means the TV would do a "hard clip" at peak luminance, and most manufacturers do not do this.

A better example to explain this more clearly:


HTH [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
Dude, I'm sorry. I thought that was an SDR calibration. HDR is tough to calibrate, but you can do it manually with R. Masciolas calibration disc/patterns and hcfr. It takes a little work, but the results are pretty great. My EOTF curve is not as flat as yours, but it's close. I don't think tone mapping kicks in until about 65 ire, and I don't mess with that range.
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post #14384 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 12:39 AM
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Actually, my EOTF luminance is flat all the way to 50 ire. The code values allow you to use the rgb levels to lower or raise luminance. You have to turn off dynamic tone mapping to get accurate results, and it takes a ton of patience, but it's worth it.
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post #14385 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 12:42 AM
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Whats the general consensus regarding which mode to use. I have read up a little about technicolour mode. Do you guys use that for both SDR and HDR or stick to the other modes?
For HDR, since this tv doesnt get bright enough for HDR anyways i always leave HDR on a single input. Thats technicolor for HDR and DV cinema home for DV. For Non HD content i use Expert dark expert bright and technicolor. I found that if i set the adjustments the same on all 3 inputs, the picture looks identical. Because of this I left the settings the same on all 3 inputs except for oled light. I have oled light set at 70 for my dark mode since thats the darkest i ever watch my '65 c8. I have expert bright set at 80 and tecknicolor expert picture mode set at 90 oled light. That way i can quickly switch my picture mode to account for how bright i want my picture. These are the 3 oled light levals i switch between to account for ambiant room light as well as the content itself. For example with extra wide screen movies with black bars i always prefer oled light levals up a little higher for some reason. Anyways for someone like me who likes to regularily adjust my oled light levals its a lot quicker switching between picture modes using the quick menu in this fashion rather than digging into the picture menu and manually adjusting the light leval each time.
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post #14386 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Hurin View Post
The prior answer is "when black starts to look grey". . . that's true.

But the term "glow" is used because true black is the total absence of light. "Black glow" is when you start to see that the screen is producing light where it should be producing none (true black).

If you put up a 0% IRE (true black) full screen slide you shouldn't even be able to tell the screen is on.

In a pitch black room, no matter how long you let your eyes adjust, 0% IRE (black) should look just like the screen is off. While even just 1% should be perceptible as a slight glow to the screen (again, in a dark room, with eyes adjusted, you'd never see it in even a slightly lit room).

And that, btw, is the key feature/benefit of OLED. LCDs simply can't do that due to the nature of the technology. LCDs portray black as (albeit dark) grey. And even FALD (Full Array Local Dimming) can't produce true black as well as OLED (the little LEDs cause halos and blooming which results in parts of the screen being lit that shouldn't be).

--H
What about when you have a COMPLETELY black screen, lights turned off, and there is text in the center of the screen and there is slightly a glow coming from the brightness or contrast of the text? It leaves a very SMALL shade or glow nearby! Is this because of the contrast, being to high? I get this rarely of course because there are few things that show this. Also in HDR! Could it be that some of the individual pixels are not showing as bright as the rest, or brighter? We are talking so small in variance, that anyone 5 feet back probably can't detect it.
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post #14387 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jrocker23 View Post
I was about 3 different urls that went to LG sites. I don't have them unfortunately.

I can tell you from being an LG Oled owner from 2016 and on, LG does very well with updates and fixes. They updated my C6 & C7 for a while.

As for this update, basically what it did was adjust settings to professionally calibrated sets due to whatever lg decided needed to be done.

The fix was related to the original tv calibration settings out of the factory, so they readjusted their base factory settings, which unfortunately caused calibrated sets to be changed.

If your set wasn't pro calibrated, it's not an issue. You may have to adjust your brightness setting a notch or two and you will be back to the same great picture. Some may not even notice a difference.

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i dont think your observation is right. My display was not pro calibrated and there were big differences in hdr and SDR after update. and the HDR settings cant be adjusted to make picture look as good after . Thats my story and im sticking too it. Anyways im happy having rolled back to 4.15. now i just need to block the lg update nag from my router firewall setting
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post #14388 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 01:25 AM
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I was talking about basic level settings. I don't have any right or knowledge to talk about pro calibration.

The complaint I have seen from non calibrated sets has been that their picture seems darker and they just adjusted brightness slightly or such and they said it was better.

I'm sure pro calibration is much more detailed but their is only so much you can do with a non pro calibrated set.

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JRock, I notice you're a sick gamer like myself. Did you notice with the Xbox One X, to get the correct settings in HDR, in a game, 422 needs to be turned off? Otherwise it will be at 24-bit every time!
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post #14389 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by chronitis View Post
I recalibrated my c8 last night and I'm incredibly happy with the results. With the new firmware you can actually see all the black detail at 2.4 gamma with a brightness setting of 50. I like the picture much more than with the prior firmware. I now have a flat 2.4 gamma with Delta E under 0.3 for all reference points except color. Color has been calibrated to around 0.5-1.0 Delta E. For those of you that think the picture is too dark, raise the luninance values in the 20 point white balance by 13 for 5 and 10 ire and taper it down to about 5 by the time you hit 80 ire. You'll have close to reference gamma without adjusting rgb values.
So for 2.4 Gamma

IRE 5 +13
IRE 10 +13
IRE 15-85 -5

??

Or can u post all ire values here
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post #14390 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 01:53 AM
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JRock, I notice you're a sick gamer like myself. Did you notice with the Xbox One X, to get the correct settings in HDR, in a game, 422 needs to be turned off? Otherwise it will be at 24-bit every time!
I didn't notice. I don't have the 4.2.2 option checked. I don't think I ever have checked it.

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post #14391 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by leiff View Post
i dont think your observation is right. My display was not pro calibrated and there were big differences in hdr and SDR after update. and the HDR settings cant be adjusted to make picture look as good after . Thats my story and im sticking too it. Anyways im happy having rolled back to 4.15. now i just need to block the lg update nag from my router firewall setting
I never had an issue with the update. I actually haven't had to adjust anything. My comments were based off of what some of the posters said here for their issue.

A lot said they adjusted the brightness slightly or adjusted ire & luminance.

I know from the posts, that pro calibrators say it changed their pro calibration settings but I'm not too knowledgeable with pro calibration.

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post #14392 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 02:05 AM
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Great results! All of the benefits of the firmware update and getting a better calibration result on top of that. I think this answers the question that some had about updating their firmware before getting a professional calibration. By any chance do you have before and after charts of your gamma levels?
I would read also calibration thread, comments like this one:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post57823112
With autocal everything seems right what comes to graphs but black is crushed with default brightness setting.
So I really would re-think at the moment what is wise thing to do hiring pro-calibrator or wait until this is fixed.
Definitely there is something wrong with that newest firmware.
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post #14393 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Great stuff @chronitis ! I've got a good SDR result too, and I'm very happy too.



Before you judge the attached too harshly, please note I'm using dICtCp720 in this one which is supposed to be better on dark detail than dE2000, and 1 dICtCp720 is equivalent to 3 dE2000's (see https://calman.spectracal.com/delta-...ce-metric.html)
Can u post or pm me ure fully Ire calibration on 2.4?
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post #14394 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 04:23 AM
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For picture settings that don't have the Warm2 white balance available (but instead have the W50 to C50 slider or whatever), what setting is closest to Warm2? I want to adjust the presets so they're all as accurate as they can get (I know some force the wide color range) but with different brightness/de-judder/other settings so I can quickly swap depending on taste/content/etc. Thanks
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post #14395 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 04:59 AM
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From HDMI.org:


Q: Will the existing ARC-enabled products work with new products that use eARC?
A: Maybe. Manufacturers can produce products that are compatible with both eARC and ARC. However, eARC is not defined to be backwards compatible with ARC.

Sure, so it is possible for someone to make a TV or AVR/soundbar that has eARC but not ARC and it is allowed by the spec.


ARC and eARC have never had anything to do with any device other than the TV and the AVR/soundbar. No other device in the setup ever has anything travel in reverse and hence have no need for it and have no knowledge of it. Only a TV can be both a destination and source device. Everything else is either a source or a destination (or in the case of the AVR/soundbar a switch in the middle of the one way chain, not counting the ARC special case).

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post #14396 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 05:36 AM
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Ever since the latest firmware update a few days ago I have been getting audio dropouts on Netflix. Approx every 2-3 minutes the sound will drop out.

I am in the UK have a C8 running through a Sony ZF9 Atmos Soundbar (HMDI via ARC). I am using the built-in LG Netflix App (it's uptodate)

Anybody had any similar issues?
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post #14397 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chronitis View Post
Dude, I'm sorry. I thought that was an SDR calibration. HDR is tough to calibrate, but you can do it manually with R. Masciolas calibration disc/patterns and hcfr. It takes a little work, but the results are pretty great. My EOTF curve is not as flat as yours, but it's close. I don't think tone mapping kicks in until about 65 ire, and I don't mess with that range.
It's fine no worries, I guessed that's what you had assumed . There's a lot to take in on the Calman screens but the clue was the 700 nits peak luminance .
I splashed out for a HDFury so that I can calibrate the greyscale of HDR a bit, and yes you are right it can be done. But I find it very hard to tell any difference between factory vs calibrated in HDR to be honest, since it's so good out of the box

@MeganElisabeth in all modes including Technicolor, Warm2 is the "most accurate" as in "closest to D65 White Point".

If you use Warm1 in Technicolor mode, this has the "special modified White Point" (and all other colours based off that) which is designed to overcome the metamerism failure than can happen with OLEDs. They put up a professional monitor displaying the correct D65 white, and then came up with a white point value for the LG C8 such that its white "looks the same". That's techno jargon but for a very nicely explained summary, check this video out below.


In short, you can see if you like how the colours look in Technicolor Warm1, and if you prefer it use it, if not don't. It's very much down to your eyes and your panel. HTH
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Last edited by mrtickleuk; 03-30-2019 at 07:37 AM.
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post #14398 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 07:42 AM
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Is there any other way around the pop up to update aside from blocking sites through the router? I know exactly what router I have but it’s through my ISP... I’ve tried googling and cannot figure out how to add them to the firewall. What if I disconnected WiFi every time I turn the TV off? Will it not remember to automatically connect next time I turn it on?
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post #14399 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
Is this just for Technicolor for HDR content then or am I to use Warm 2 with the Technicolor preset for SDR material also? It was my understanding that after a FW update it was more accurate to use Warm 1 with Technicolor and still warm 2 for ISF modes. Which is also why after a FW update now they defaulted Warm 1 when it used to be Warm 2 for Technicolor mode. Is this not true? Warm 1 on Technicolor is warmer than Warm 1 on ISF modes.Trying to determine how this plays into HDR content with Technicolor if any of this information is accurate?

I have similar questions to you. I’ve had my 77C8 since last August, and spent a lot of time on here initially getting it set up and tweaked per the recommendations. Hadn’t been back for a while until earlier this week, to see what to do after the latest firmware update.

Here’s where I’m at, after reviewing this thread and the latest updates. I primarily use the Technicolor and ISF Bright/Dark settings, depending on source and time of day.

Technicolor Expert (notable or changed settings only)
OLED Light - 85
Brightness - 50
Gamma - 2.2
White Balance
Color Temp - Warm1 (like you, I saw this recommended)
Method - 20 Points IRE (changed to this after the FW update)
Pattern - Outer
IRE - 5
Adjusting Luminance - 10
MPEG Noise Reduction - Low
TruMotion - User (DJ - 2, DB - 5) - I have this set like this because all of my sports and typical cable TV viewing is in this setting, and this is to account for possible poor(er) content

ISF Expert Bright (notable or changed settings only)
OLED Light - 82
Brightness - 50
Gamma - 2.2
White Balance
Color Temp - Warm2
Method - 20 Points IRE (changed to this after the FW update)
Pattern - Outer
IRE - 5
Adjusting Luminance - 10
MPEG Noise Reduction - Off
TruMotion - Off

ISF Expert Dark (notable or changed settings only)
OLED Light - 62
Brightness - 50
Gamma - 2.2
White Balance
Color Temp - Warm2
Method - 20 Points IRE (changed to this after the FW update)
Pattern - Outer
IRE - 5
Adjusting Luminance - 10
MPEG Noise Reduction - Off
TruMotion - Off

I have not had the set calibrated; just have reviewed and collated all of the online recommendations I could find, along with info from the very knowledgeable contributors on here. Hopefully, this info might help the “average” user who is looking for settings help, but I’m also keenly interested in any feedback from the “smart people” on here, if I’ve got some glaring errors/misses/misunderstandings.

Thanks to all as usual!



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post #14400 of 22584 Old 03-30-2019, 07:49 AM
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what no CONTRAST......???!!..lol
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