2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 494 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14791 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Matsonia View Post
Could you please let me know how to do this as that's worried me. I want to get it blocked aswell so theres no chance at all of it updating as im very happy with how the set is right now.
You need to set this up on your network firewall. In my case, FIOS has parental settings where you can block specific URL's for a specific device. There were 3 URL's. I don't remember them off the top of my head, but I was able to find them via searching.
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post #14792 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
I still use BT.1866 and Warm 1 with Technicolor Expert. I don't really see any issues. That being said, I've started to play around with HDR Effect depending on what I'm watching. It's, interesting.
Is that the same meaning of "interesting" as in the phrase "May you live in interesting times"?

@curlyjive , the 3 sites (not full urls ) I found when I read about this were
snu.lge.com
su.lge.com
lgtvonline.lge.com

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post #14793 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 11:35 AM
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Has anyone else who experienced a big gamma swing noticed after a while the gamma smoothing back over like I have?


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post #14794 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 11:43 AM
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Is that the same meaning of "interesting" as in the phrase "May you live in interesting times"?

@curlyjive , the 3 sites (not full urls ) I found when I read about this were
snu.lge.com
su.lge.com
lgtvonline.lge.com

Interesting as in that sort of looks cool, until I watched it with various content, and then thought that this pseudo-HDR is not for me.
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post #14795 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 12:00 PM
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I never use anything else on xbox one x but game mode. I’ve tried Netflix but the picture is definitely not as good as thru the C8. Also I don’t have to turn on xbox every time I want to watch Netflix. As far as changing the settings constantly, not for me, I set Netflix to Cinema (SDR) and cable TV to ISF dark and the picture is excellent every time. I don’t see any reason on this TV to change anything.
Well unless something changed recently (and I can find no evidence that it did, although I sure didn't bother to try it again), the netflix app on the xbox (and PS4) is useless since it forces HDR mode on for all content. No one could possibly ever want that as it looks terrible.
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post #14796 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 12:02 PM
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@curlyjive , the 3 sites (not full urls ) I found when I read about this were

You need a hobby
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post #14797 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 12:04 PM
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Has anyone else who experienced a big gamma swing noticed after a while the gamma smoothing back over like I have?


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You might break the collective mind-hive with this one Is this measured or perceived?
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post #14798 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lsorensen View Post
Well unless something changed recently (and I can find no evidence that it did, although I sure didn't bother to try it again), the netflix app on the xbox (and PS4) is useless since it forces HDR mode on for all content. No one could possibly ever want that as it looks terrible.
No, nothing has changed. The xbox still forces Netflix to HDR or Dolby vision for all content, that is why I use Netflix thru my C8.
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post #14799 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
You might break the collective mind-hive with this one Is this measured or perceived?


I can throw up actual measurements maybe tonight. But initially just using the brightness pluge pattern I am able to get to 17 without adjusting brightness or adjusting 5% ire


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post #14800 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 12:55 PM
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I can throw up actual measurements maybe tonight. But initially just using the brightness pluge pattern I am able to get to 17 without adjusting brightness or adjusting 5% ire


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sneak attack ninja style firmware update ? lol
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post #14801 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ayrton911 View Post
Does everyone use game mode for gaming or is there any argument for another setting?

Finally, does it not get tiresome the way folks seem to have to change settings so much depending on what you're watching? Do folks ever get to a point of setting it and forgetting it?

I also guess on a console like XBOX One X, if you use any of the movie/TV apps, you would end up having to change picture settings depending on if you're gaming or not. Just seems like a lot of work to always be having to change settings. One of the reasons why I asked if anyone uses a setting other than Game for gaming, so that you could just leave the settings on the One X and not worry about it.

I know I was probably not picky, but on my plasma, i just set all the inputs the same and enjoyed it thoroughly.
I'm way behind on this thread (my god, take a couple days off and look what you come back to) so if you have moved on from this I apologize. I don't use game mode for gaming because of the picture setting limitations. I game a lot, but not the competitive, online variety. I play mostly FPS campaigns so it's just me against the game. Game mode gives you lower input lag, but I've never noticed any input lag problems playing FPS campaigns. So unless you absolutely need the lower input lag, you can ignore the game mode, IMO.
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post #14802 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 02:05 PM
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People who watch movies via Apple TV (4K), are you using 4:2:0 or 4:4:4 chroma mode? I assume that I need the former, since that's how movies are mastered, but the Apple TV menu makes it sound like the latter is better (how, I'm not sure).
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post #14803 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by chronomac View Post
People who watch movies via Apple TV (4K), are you using 4:2:0 or 4:4:4 chroma mode? I assume that I need the former, since that's how movies are mastered, but the Apple TV menu makes it sound like the latter is better (how, I'm not sure).
Might as well choose 4:2:0 since our TVs won't properly handle 4:4:4 unless the HDMI input is put into "PC mode" via its HDMI label setting. And if you enable "PC mode", you then lose other settings. So it's not worth it on that basis alone.

You won't notice the difference between 4:2:0 and 4:4:4 while watching content. Maybe you might in some test slides designed to expose such a difference.

I should mention that after I test Dolby Vision, when I go back to SDR, the Apple TV enables 4:4:4 automatically. I have to set it manually back to 4:2:0.
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post #14804 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by chronomac View Post
People who watch movies via Apple TV (4K), are you using 4:2:0 or 4:4:4 chroma mode? I assume that I need the former, since that's how movies are mastered, but the Apple TV menu makes it sound like the latter is better (how, I'm not sure).

I'm using 4:2:0. I played around a bit with 4:4:4 but 4:2:0 is where it's supposed to be. Just ignore what the Apple description says about the picture being clearer. I think 4:4:4 would make text clearer but I have no problems with text or anything else using 4:2:0 when I stream via Airplay from my laptop to the C8 on the rare occasion I do so.

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post #14805 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 05:00 PM
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Is Fast Boot in the service menu? Not finding that setting, is Fast Boot different than Quick Start + that in the General Settings menu?

Thanks
Quick Start + is what I meant... Wasn't in front of my TV, so called it the wrong thing... Anyway, it's in the General Menu.
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post #14806 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 05:06 PM
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May I ask you to try with Fast boot enabled? I think this bug is on every tv with the new firmware so it's just to have another proof. Anyway LG has been informed about this bug (the engineer who went to another Italian C8 owner's house has reported that they didn't know about the bug and that they will report to LG Korea but he said it's 100% software related).
If I turn Quick Start+ on and then turn auto power sync off in the Simplink settings, my AVR stays off until audio begins to play. When I turn the AVR off, it goes back to playing through the TV speakers. Can't get the AVR to not power on at all unless I unplug the power, which is going to be a giant pain.
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post #14807 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 06:34 PM
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which is better for the sound output to an AVR, the optical or the hdmi arc?
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post #14808 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 06:53 PM
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which is better for the sound output to an AVR, the optical or the hdmi arc?


Hdmi has greater bandwidth and can allow atmos dd+ if your receiver allows atmos


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post #14809 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 06:55 PM
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which is better for the sound output to an AVR, the optical or the hdmi arc?
Neither are ideal in that neither allow for uncompressed audio. I use ARC to good effect though. You can get "lossy" Atmos and compressed dts/dd to the receiver via ARC.

If you can work around any sound-sync issues and/or can configure your receiver to pass the full HDMI signal untainted to the TV, you're best is connecting your devices to the receiver via HDMI directly.

However, in my case, because I always fear the receiver will be tweaking the video signal, and because I know my Apple TV 4K won't ever need to send uncompressed audio to the receiver, I connect the Apple TV 4K to my TV directly (HDMI 1), and then use HDMI 2 (ARC-enabled input) to send the sound back down to the receiver.

My 4K Blu-Ray player has two HDMI outputs, one for video and one for audio. So there too I'm able to send video directly to the TV.

Sorry, I guess I'm just journaling at this point.
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post #14810 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 07:45 PM
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But are you using warm 1 when using technicolor?
For most of the movies YES... for others WARM 1 is too "green"

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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
I still use BT.1866 and Warm 1 with Technicolor Expert. I don't really see any issues.
faces and ambient are not sometimes too "green"?
I’ve went back and forth with this. With Warm 1 seeming to green for me and ending up back at Warm 2 for Technicolor Expert with BT.1866. I definitely see how they can both be technically “accurate” to each set of eyes. What’s frustrating to me is my eyes see both ways as being correct. Lol Warm 1 looks accurate for how I view things in life during the day/cold and Warm 2 are how my eyes perceive things more towards evening/sunny/sunset. Lighting is truly everything. The lighting environment outside as well as I places rules all whether it be TV or actual life!
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post #14811 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 07:46 PM
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^that's why most professionals have settings for day and night! On mine I just leave it at warm 2 with technicolor, I think my eyes are used to it.
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post #14812 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 07:51 PM
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For those of you with advanced capabilities who have performed your own calibrations @chronitis , @jk82 , @iSeries , etc.) can you comment on how your calibration settings fare when checking them against rudimentary test patterns like those from AVS or commercially available discs like Digital Video Essentials? Before you take that as a dig against your results, please read on.

I used the AVS and DVE test patterns and was already thrilled with my 65C8's SDR picture in Technicolor Expert mode. After @jk82 and @chronitis posted their detailed SDR settings (in IFS Dark) I gave them a try and the results were excellent. Without a side-by-side comparison it's hard for me to tell my Technicolor Expert settings from their detailed IFS Dark settings, but their detailed settings definitely produced a great picture.

Here's where it gets murky. These detailed IFS Dark settings that give me a truly outstanding picture with almost no black crush are not very close to the settings the AVS test patterns or the DVE test patterns tell me I should be using. The AVS and DVE test patterns tell me that I need to increase my black level by 6 clicks. Maybe I'm wrong, but 6 clicks of black level seems like a lot. Perhaps panel variance is the culprit. I'm just not sure.

Considering how happy I am with the picture from the detailed settings posted by @jk82 and @chronitis , particularly the deep blacks and minimal black crush, my inclination is to keep them and ignore the AVS and DVE test pattern results. But once you get that itch you have to scratch it so I am curious what those with advanced calibration capabilities think about the value of test patterns like those provided by AVS and DVE and how the settings those patterns suggest compare with your settings after you've performed a more thorough calibration.

And before someone goes there, I do genuinely agree with those who espouse the viewpoint that if you like the picture then just enjoy it. I'm not looking for reasons to be unhappy with my great picture or agonizing over details my eyes may never perceive. I'm just trying to gain some knowledge from those who know more than me.
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post #14813 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
Ah wow yeah that would be. I know exactly what you mean! I actually found pretty expensive black velvet stretch fabric I’ve nailed into the wall behind the TV on the wall as well as the side wall it’s in the corner of and since I have a pitch black room it looks even better than a theater and has that float affect. Truly mindblowing with OLED+UB820 with a horror movie or something dark. It wasn’t cheap and took quite a bit of time/effort but my God it’s been one of the most worthwhile things I’ve ever done. Am beyond the happiness I could’ve ever hoped for with it. Beyond my wildest expectations for sure. If anyone ever has the time or funds for it I highly recommend doing it.
I have made foam tiles covered in the same fabric that I have attached to my ceiling extended the width of the screen and about 4 feet into the room. Also added a dark brown shag rug on the carpet right below the screen. Those changes made a HUGE difference for my projector setup. For tv's, anything other than an OLED might not benefit as much due to the lack of perfect black level....some users use bias lighting actually. But for OLED, the blacker the room the better. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]

Worst part is how much of a pain velvet is too work with.
I was thinking of doing the ceiling as well but deicided I feared more of having something crashing down into my TV. 😂 So I thought I’d better not. Lol Hopefully I was thinking this might have more of an effect for projectors versus a TV? I could not agree with you more! I had bias lighting with my last TV and of course can now never see myself going back.. bias lighting helped a ton but simply nothing compares to OLED’s, IMO. If I would’ve had the black velvet surrounding my old TV even with the bias lighting it wouldn’t even come anywhere near what it does for the OLED and it’s floating magical beauty. lol

Oh absolutely! Velvet certainly does not like to be messed with. Was so grateful once I got it in the right spot and now never want to even breathe near it for it to move. Lol
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post #14814 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 07:55 PM
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I’ve went back and forth with this. With Warm 1 seeming to green for me and ending up back at Warm 2 for Technicolor Expert with BT.1866. I definitely see how they can both be technically “accurate” to each set of eyes. What’s frustrating to me is my eyes see both ways as being correct. Lol Warm 1 looks accurate for how I view things in life during the day/cold and Warm 2 are how my eyes perceive things more towards evening/sunny/sunset. Lighting is truly everything. The lighting environment outside as well as I places rules all whether it be TV or actual life!

Just pick a setting and watch it for a week or so. Let your eyes and brain adjust. I use live, local news broadcasts to check coloring if I don't want to pull out my AVS HD 709 disk to check the basics. That's worked well for me.


For my eyes and viewing environment I use Cinema User with 2.2 and Warm 2 for Comcast local HDTV only, and Technicolor Expert, bt.1866 and Warm 1 for movies and streaming. Controlling light in the room is easy during the day and at night, the lights are off and I use a bias light set to 80%.

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post #14815 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 07:57 PM
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^that's why most professionals have settings for day and night! On mine I just leave it at warm 2 with technicolor, I think my eyes are used to it.
Most definitely makes more sense than ever now that I’ve been flipping between the two. If only the TV would have an HDR like capability to switch between warm 1 and warm 2 on a per scene by scene basis with SDR! Lol Yes that’s where I’m at with it too. Just bugged me that warm 1 was somehow the newer closest more accurate they provided but I think I’ll stick with the classic standard of warm 2 as if it weren’t then HDR content wouldn’t be warm 2 but warm 1 if it were truly THAT more newly accurate than the traditional standard of warm 2.
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post #14816 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
I’ve went back and forth with this. With Warm 1 seeming to green for me and ending up back at Warm 2 for Technicolor Expert with BT.1866. I definitely see how they can both be technically “accurate” to each set of eyes. What’s frustrating to me is my eyes see both ways as being correct. Lol Warm 1 looks accurate for how I view things in life during the day/cold and Warm 2 are how my eyes perceive things more towards evening/sunny/sunset. Lighting is truly everything. The lighting environment outside as well as I places rules all whether it be TV or actual life!

Just pick a setting and watch it for a week or so. Let your eyes and brain adjust. I use live, local news broadcasts to check coloring if I don't want to pull out my AVS HD 709 disk to check the basics. That's worked well for me.


For my eyes and viewing environment I use Cinema User with 2.2 and Warm 2 for Comcast local HDTV only, and Technicolor Expert, bt.1866 and Warm 1 for movies and streaming. Controlling light in the room is easy during the day and at night, the lights are off and I use a bias light set to 80%.
Thanks very much. 🙂 Yeah I think I’m pretty set on Technicolor expert bt1866 warm 2 as I’ve gotten so used to it. Unless of course they decide to implement scene by scene auto detection of lighting for my eyes. 😄 lol
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post #14817 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 08:01 PM
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When disconnected from a WiFi network that’s always been used by the TV when powered off and then powered back on will it remember the network and automatically connect or will I manually connect? Is there an option to remember/not remember?
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post #14818 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 08:03 PM
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Most definitely makes more sense than ever now that I’ve been flipping between the two. If only the TV would have an HDR like capability to switch between warm 1 and warm 2 on a per scene by scene basis with SDR! Lol Yes that’s where I’m at with it too. Just bugged me that warm 1 was somehow the newer closest more accurate they provided but I think I’ll stick with the classic standard of warm 2 as if it weren’t then HDR content wouldn’t be warm 2 but warm 1 if it were truly THAT more newly accurate than the traditional standard of warm 2.
Short of getting it calibrated you should be good with what you like, it's almost like the Dynamic tone mapping setting for HDR10, some enable some dont, you'll get mixed answers!
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Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
Most definitely makes more sense than ever now that I’ve been flipping between the two. If only the TV would have an HDR like capability to switch between warm 1 and warm 2 on a per scene by scene basis with SDR! Lol Yes that’s where I’m at with it too. Just bugged me that warm 1 was somehow the newer closest more accurate they provided but I think I’ll stick with the classic standard of warm 2 as if it weren’t then HDR content wouldn’t be warm 2 but warm 1 if it were truly THAT more newly accurate than the traditional standard of warm 2.
Short of getting it calibrated you should be good with what you like, it's almost like the Dynamic tone mapping setting for HDR10, some enable some dont, you'll get mixed answers!
Absolutely! I’m pretty sure I’m going to have it calibrated once I’m somewhere where someone actually comes.... lol until then I’m very very happy with it. 🙂 The only thing that concerns me with calibrating is with needing to have it redone with updates and over time... it’s a charge each time right? Would get pretty costly over time.
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post #14820 of 21667 Old 04-03-2019, 08:08 PM
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