2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 54 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1591 of 21735 Old 05-15-2018, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
When a given display shows a big difference in picture quality for the same material coming from different providers, I tend to suspect the provider before the display.

I've also seen the same provider show different source material at very different picture quality levels. Today I watched a 2014 NFL game streamed through Roku that was very good quality. Yesterday I watched a 2017 game from the same source and the image had a lot of motion problems. Our TV is a Pioneer Kuro with a reputation for good quality motion, and it was up scaling to 1080p from what ever resolution the NFL stores it's games in.

I'm not suggesting anything about the new LG image processing, only that it's a complex issue.
That’s what I suspected maybe it’s the provider but then I tried YouTube tv and ps vue from Apple TV and the motion is the same as cable lots more judder and nothing works even trump toon off on a 60 FPS source such as sports Judders it’s a big step down from the a1e
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post #1592 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Coane View Post
That's exactly what I'm doing. ISF Dark with OLED at 100 and contrast at 90 with BFI on seems to be in ball park of default ISF Dark with BFI off. Dolby Vision Cinema Home with BFI is very close to Cinema with no BFI. To me, BFI with Tru motion set to 0,0 has the most natural motion. The only issue I just stumbled onto is that 25fps with BFI is a mess. Horrible flickering. (Collateral on Netflix). Maybe a firmware update down the road can fix it? For now I'm using technicolor with tru motion off for 25p content. Can stomach it, but miss BFI.
Agreed, its is the best motion I've seen in the TV, the 25p issue explains why Planet Earth looked whacky but most other Netflix content looked great. To bad my wife is obsessed with British TV shows.
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post #1593 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 04:25 AM
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then the wife lie is the calibration only cost $100

If you happen to live in downtown Brooklyn (dumbo - i'm lazy) i'd be happy to ghetto calibrate it for nothing. (or lend you a meter/pattern gen.)
I live in Crown Heights (since before many of its current in habitants would have felt safe walking the streets and night, bitter? yes!) So I might take you up on that.

Currently trying to work out other issues like why my cable box goes out of sync randomly (probably the post processing I have cranked)
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post #1594 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 04:46 AM
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Where is the documentation! HDMI inputs

Having only had Sony TVs prior the lack of documentation and unintuitive UI or at least the complicated UI is hard to grasp.

I can't seem to find an explanation on why my PS4 which is plugged into my AV reciver shows up as a seconday input but if I plug my cable box into the AV as well it does nothing. I've been unable to find any explanation as to the point the PS4 showing up as a seconday choice or why it doesn't do it for anything else.

Anyone else have any luck getting the TV to recognize different sources all run through the AV?
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post #1595 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CastleGreyscale View Post
Agreed, its is the best motion I've seen in the TV, the 25p issue explains why Planet Earth looked whacky but most other Netflix content looked great. To bad my wife is obsessed with British TV shows.
I wonder whether LG engineers could have been dumb enough to come out with BFI totally gimped in Europe as well, considering the abundance of 25p/1080i material shown around here.

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post #1596 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 05:00 AM
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25p content --> TV uses 100 HZ internally --> 50 Hz flicker with BFI
24p content --> TV uses 120 HZ internally --> 60 Hz flicker with BFI


That's the reason why the flicker is much more noticable with 25 fps content. You can't display 25 fps at 60Hz without introducing terrible judder.
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post #1597 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jk82 View Post
25p content --> TV uses 100 HZ internally --> 50 Hz flicker with BFI
24p content --> TV uses 120 HZ internally --> 60 Hz flicker with BFI


That's the reason why the flicker is much more noticable with 25 fps content. You can't display 25 fps at 60Hz without introducing terrible judder.
So you attribute going from "best natural motion" to "horrible flicker" to those 20Hz of difference? You might be right, not saying you are not.

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post #1598 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 05:41 AM
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I assume so yes. To really know for sure though, someone would have to film BFI with a highspeed camera and count the black frames when displaying 24p and 25p content. Also I wouldn't call 24p with BFI "best natural motion" either because of the 3:2 pulldown it introduces.


edit: For me the best feature of BFI isn't the motion but that it reduces vertical banding. Even without cranking up oled-light I can clearly see that the bands are less visible with BFI when toggling it on and off while displaying a slide.

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post #1599 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by guitarguy316 View Post
i mean i use DirecTV, so arguably it's the best "cable" quality provider.
Directv does a great job, its the content they are providing which is the issue. It is what it is, If it is not at least 480i it will look real bad and some 480i looks bad.....

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Has anyone been able to compare the C8 vs E8 for sound quality? Seems like most of the reviews say the E8 isn't as good as the E7, but they don't say how much better it is than the C8. I'd prefer not to get a soundbar since I live in a small apartment (not a lot of room and I won't be able to blast it anyway) so if the E8 sounds significantly better for normal-volume watching I'd probably spend the extra $500 for it.
E8 will sound way better...worth $500 more is up to the potential buyer......
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post #1600 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 09:10 AM
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Audio Sync issues?

I wanted to know if anyone else has seen this. I'm using ARC to send internal apps and my cable box audio to my Onyko. I know ARC is buggy but I have no sync issues in internal apps (that I've noticed) the cable box sync is way off. If I use the TV speakers all is fine.

The issue is that the video is ahead of the audio.

I'm just not ready to place the blame on ARC because Netflix plays fine. Anyone else experance this?
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post #1601 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 09:17 AM
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^^
ARC is a fools game!
personally i never use the TV apps because of that. The xbox one X (or S) controls well with a remote (i'm assuming you are already usint a harmony remote) and is a nice streaming device.


does your AVR have auto-sync? maybe audio delay option for ARC?

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post #1602 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 09:49 AM
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does anyone who bought c8 oled has noticed annoying yellow/pink tinting?
i just returned 2 65b7 and im looking for 65c8 hopying lg has resolve this issue.

Inviato dal mio LG-H870 utilizzando Tapatalk
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post #1603 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by zielin View Post
^^
ARC is a fools game!
personally i never use the TV apps because of that. The xbox one X (or S) controls well with a remote (i'm assuming you are already usint a harmony remote) and is a nice streaming device.


does your AVR have auto-sync? maybe audio delay option for ARC?
A PS4 Pro is my nearish future fore sure, Audio sync on or off on my AV unit has no effect for better or worse. The only really issue has been the cable box which grows more and more out sync as you continue to play it (if you pause it kind of corrects itself before starting all over again).

At its worse its maybe 2 whole seconds out of sync as if it were being done for comedic effect.


Internal netflix, amazon are all flawless.

The only reason the cable box is not plugged into the AV is I wanted seperate picture profiles for the cable box then the PS4.

But whatever I can just compromise until my contract is up and I launch my DVR into the sun and start using cable alternatives.
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post #1604 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 10:46 AM
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How I Wall Mounted My OLED65C8PUA

OLED65C8PUA VESA mounting holes are low on the back thick area of the TV, this is how I modified a Monoprice 5916 Wall Mount.
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post #1605 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by CastleGreyscale View Post
A PS4 Pro is my nearish future fore sure, Audio sync on or off on my AV unit has no effect for better or worse. The only really issue has been the cable box which grows more and more out sync as you continue to play it (if you pause it kind of corrects itself before starting all over again).

At its worse its maybe 2 whole seconds out of sync as if it were being done for comedic effect.


Internal netflix, amazon are all flawless.

The only reason the cable box is not plugged into the AV is I wanted seperate picture profiles for the cable box then the PS4.

But whatever I can just compromise until my contract is up and I launch my DVR into the sun and start using cable alternatives.
the ps4 isn't friendly with remotes (ie, i can't turn it on) (all consoles look like pooo IMO.. but exclusives force me to buy them. )


Here is what I do to get around picture mode (PM) preset and gaming. (It SUCKS that PM can't picked via remote commands directly.)


I set HDMI 1 to media (TV, streaming, 4k blueray, etc) - and use ISF dark for that

I set HDMI 2 for gaming (using either "PC" or gaming PM)

Send content to both inputs at the same time. That way you only need to change HDMI inputs to match the content you want to video. (and inputs are something you can macro in a remote.)

Some AVRs will have dual outputs, but if not you can get a HDMI spliter. Like this one i just randomly searched for on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SIIG-HDMI-Spl...dp/B07BX8JWV8/


again, i hope you are using a Logitech harmony remote with that you just setup actions for all the things you want to do. It is super ez to setup.
FIOS == turn on TV, TV hdmi 1, turn on AVR, ARV input matching fios
Xbox == turn on TV, TV hdmi 2. turn on AVR, AVR input for xbox, Turn on Xbox
PC == turn on TV, TV hdmi 2. turn on AVR, AVR input for PC, Turn on PC
Oppo == turn on TV, TV hmdi 1, turn on AVR, AVR input for DVD, turn on Oppo
etc
click a button on a "activity" and the remote will do the rest for you. 1 remote and no moving off the sofa (with the dog next to you) == win!

(xbox x is more powerful than the ps4 pro and has the 4k blueray playwe that is pretty good. (but better would be to drop a few $k into a PC and play games in real 4k. The xbox x also makes for a very good media player in general because of the remote control options. I bought xboxs for my parents because of the media stuff.)
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Last edited by zielin; 05-16-2018 at 01:27 PM.
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post #1606 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hdfatboy2003 View Post
Only had mine for a few hours. You have more control over the settings than an e6. The OS is faster and I think the PQ is better. I’m using the ratings setting for the C8.
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Originally Posted by Adamd View Post
I went from a 65e6 to 77c8 and the picture looks very similar to me. A couple things ive noticed is 4k looks a bit sharper on the c8 and the c8 is brighter with the abl not as near as noticeable.
bummer, i was really hoping upscaling would be obvious difference. same for black blocky/noise would be eliminated or lower.
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post #1607 of 21735 Old 05-16-2018, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarguy316 View Post
bummer, i was really hoping upscaling would be obvious difference. same for black blocky/noise would be eliminated or lower.
I dont watch much low quality stuff but the c8 is supposed to be better in this area. It does have a setting that stops color banding like the sonys have.
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post #1608 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by zielin View Post
the ps4 isn't friendly with remotes (ie, i can't turn it on) (all consoles look like pooo IMO.. but exclusives force me to buy them. )


Here is what I do to get around picture mode (PM) preset and gaming. (It SUCKS that PM can't picked via remote commands directly.)


I set HDMI 1 to media (TV, streaming, 4k blueray, etc) - and use ISF dark for that

I set HDMI 2 for gaming (using either "PC" or gaming PM)

Send content to both inputs at the same time. That way you only need to change HDMI inputs to match the content you want to video. (and inputs are something you can macro in a remote.)

Some AVRs will have dual outputs, but if not you can get a HDMI spliter. Like this one i just randomly searched for on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SIIG-HDMI-Spl...dp/B07BX8JWV8/


again, i hope you are using a Logitech harmony remote with that you just setup actions for all the things you want to do. It is super ez to setup.
FIOS == turn on TV, TV hdmi 1, turn on AVR, ARV input matching fios
Xbox == turn on TV, TV hdmi 2. turn on AVR, AVR input for xbox, Turn on Xbox
PC == turn on TV, TV hdmi 2. turn on AVR, AVR input for PC, Turn on PC
Oppo == turn on TV, TV hmdi 1, turn on AVR, AVR input for DVD, turn on Oppo
etc
click a button on a "activity" and the remote will do the rest for you. 1 remote and no moving off the sofa (with the dog next to you) == win!

(xbox x is more powerful than the ps4 pro and has the 4k blueray playwe that is pretty good. (but better would be to drop a few $k into a PC and play games in real 4k. The xbox x also makes for a very good media player in general because of the remote control options. I bought xboxs for my parents because of the media stuff.)
Thanks for that detailed explanation, I don't think I'd have thought of that.

I did spec a balanced HTPC/Gaming rig but after the TV I can't justify the cost. I suspect you may be more critical of gaming then I. Exclusives is why I go PS4, plus my wifes Xbox One had hardware issues out of the gate and Microsoft was pretty bad at owning it. My work computer is most PC gamers wet dream but running cables to the TV is not impossible it would still be pushing it. I thought about getting a shield, but then again a console just makes more sense value wise, plus Sony gaming exclusives are a huge selling point (Horizon Zero Dawn) also Xbox players always seam to get the shaft when a game is on both consoles. But the boost is assthetics is a bonus to me and not something I can't live without.

Movies above all else is what I'm into

I do have a Harmony Companion/Home controler (I liked it's simplicity). I did program a button to cycle picture settings into each remote setup, but you can't really work that into a start up sequence for switching profiles because you'll never know what setting it was on last. Having the button in the remote at least stops me from reaching for the magic remote as offten.

I wish I could rub my Oppo/Harmony/Magic remotes together and make the ultimate remote. When you pick up the Oppo the buttons dimmly light up! Its as if they knew their customers would be using their products in pitch black rooms.

Thanks again for that break down.
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post #1609 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 07:21 AM
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Can a few of you post pictures of your wall-mounted C8 or E8 and which mount you went with? Want to see visually how close it is to the wall. I'm also considering buying a W8 for aesthetic reasons.

Thanks,
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post #1610 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 09:45 AM
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Can a few of you post pictures of your wall-mounted C8 or E8 and which mount you went with? Want to see visually how close it is to the wall. I'm also considering buying a W8 for aesthetic reasons.

Thanks,
Here is the c8 77"
I'm using the LG mount. I like it a lot. It is also a must for me to pull the TV out from the wall when needed. But no matter the mount it will never be flush with the wall because of the electronics/power/inputs/etc on the back/bottom.
(i'm not a fan of the W because of its stunningly large "sound" bar.)
** for people that PM me, the speakers are PSB Imagine T2. They are great! and "affordable" high end speakers. (i always find it odd that few people on AVSforum use them.)



(attached (below) is a pix of the g6.. or maybe the e7... i loss track of these tvs but 65" vs the 77")
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post #1611 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 11:40 AM
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That beautiful beast is symmetrically posing for you.
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post #1612 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 02:23 PM
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Cool

Looks like a 65´ Model in a huge living room

Congrats.

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post #1613 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 04:06 PM
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To hell with the TV, where do I get a dog like that!

There's a saying about "everything in moderation". If only it was applied to well, you know...
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post #1614 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 04:36 PM
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Hey everyone, C8 manual says when connecting a device to the display via ethernet you should use a cat7 cable. I'm using a cat6a and it connects just fine. Does it make a difference? I have Spectrum 100 Mbps service. Thanks.

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post #1615 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 04:40 PM
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Move that couch about seven feet from that screen and you will have an Imax theater experience.

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post #1616 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 05:16 PM
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Move that couch about seven feet from that screen and you will have an Imax theater experience.
Cat 6a can handle up to a gigabit, Cat 7 up to 10 gigabits. LG OLED’s have 100 megabit Ethernet adapter so you could usually use anything from Cat 5 up unless a really long cable, then Cat 6 up

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post #1617 of 21735 Old 05-17-2018, 08:30 PM
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To hell with the TV, where do I get a dog like that!
$1K and up.
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post #1618 of 21735 Old 05-18-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbhur212 View Post
Hey everyone, C8 manual says when connecting a device to the display via ethernet you should use a cat7 cable. I'm using a cat6a and it connects just fine. Does it make a difference? I have Spectrum 100 Mbps service. Thanks.

Until LG (and pretty much everyone else too) starts putting something faster than 100Mbit ports in their TVs, CAT5 will do the job. Given you probably can't even buy less than 5E or 6 these days, don't worry about it. CAT7 would be pointless (but work fine).

Len Sorensen

Sony XBR55A1E, Marantz SR6012, Benq W7000, Oppo BDP-93, PSB Image T5/C5/B4/Subseries 200
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post #1619 of 21735 Old 05-18-2018, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbhur212 View Post
Hey everyone, C8 manual says when connecting a device to the display via ethernet you should use a cat7 cable. I'm using a cat6a and it connects just fine. Does it make a difference? I have Spectrum 100 Mbps service. Thanks.
As others pointed out Cat 5 or better is rated for 100M bit/s.

The only thing I will say as I have a 5 year old LG LCD is the Fast Ethernet (100M) technology does not auto negotiate well. Meaning it would constantly choose 100M half duplex. At the time I took home a Cisco Catalyst 3800 switch from work to troubleshoot the problem in the end I decided the mac phy used in the LG was sub par. Had to do wireless for good throughput. My cable router has no option to hard code 100 full duplex. If you have that feature than hard code the speed and duplex on both switch and TV. Contrary to popular belief you can't hard code one side and hope the other will negotiate. Both need to negotiate for the tech to work.

We are 5 years down the track one would hope they solved that by using better vendor but I thought I'd menntion the possibility to save any trouble shooting time.
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post #1620 of 21735 Old 05-18-2018, 02:23 PM
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My 2016 LG OLEDs have no qualms achieving max streaming throughput via their NICs. Granted, I'm not streaming anything directly to the TV that is reaching 100 or even 50 Mbps for that matter.
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