2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 596 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #17851 of 19307 Old 06-02-2019, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by drewTT View Post
Don’t revert back. You will lose the improved dithering and near black. The calibrator can very easily correct the gamma.
Yes they can, but if he then updates to a different firmware that changes the gamma (as numerous recent firmware versions have) then that messes up what the calibrator has corrected.
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post #17852 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by janos666 View Post
Why do you use YCC 4:4:4 though? The TV can handle Full RGB just fine and HDMI 2.0 is the smallest tube between the display panel and the GPU. That RGB->YCC conversion would add visible banding without dithering (which is unnecessary if you use RGB).
I've compared RGB (Full and Limited) and YCC (YCbCr444) and for me YCC gives the least banding. I've tested this with the Spears and Munsil Quantization test and other gradients. This was also the case with the Samsung TV I had before. Somehow TV's like YCC better than RGB. At least that's my experience
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post #17853 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by eraniolo View Post
You are not alone. I have a 55E8 with the same issue. It seems to me that the vibration is coming from the casing at the back. If I hold the casing with my finger, then it is reduced considerably.
Thanks for your reply. I think you're right in that the vibration is occurring in the rear casing. I believe there's a small sub woofer inside and it must be from that. The casing is not rigid and it's easy to push in the plastic covering. I'll check the screws to make sure they're all tight.

Like you I've opted to minimise the bass and emphasise the treble in order to reduce the problem. That does help but means that the audio experience is compromised. As this issue doesn't seem to affect everyone it's presumably possible to fix it, so I might well get a technician out under the warranty.

I probably won't report the issue to LG and just go through the retailer. I think manufacturers' customer support is universally awful and your experience with LG doesn't surprise me. I only got an LG after fighting a six month battle with Samsung over another issue which they refused to accept was an issue!
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post #17854 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jk82 View Post
On my C8 the right speaker does also rattle at certain bass frequencies. It's caused by vibrations as the rattle stops when I hold the speaker in place with a Q-tip. I guess to fix this one would need to open the back cover and look how the speakers are attached and where exactly the rattle noise is coming from. I didn't bother though as I almost never use the internal speakers.
Thanks for this. As I posted above, I think I'll go through the process of getting the rattle traced as I don't yet have a sound bar or hifi. I'll report back if I have any useful information.
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post #17855 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinz80 View Post
I've compared RGB (Full and Limited) and YCC (YCbCr444) and for me YCC gives the least banding. I've tested this with the Spears and Munsil Quantization test and other gradients. This was also the case with the Samsung TV I had before. Somehow TV's like YCC better than RGB. At least that's my experience
It's not like I don't believe you and not like I couldn't find any logical explanations for this to be factually true (in some specific cases), yet I wonder if you might be slightly misled by the dither noise (nVidia cards turn off all dithering when it has no real use to conserve the original appearance but it's turned on for the lossy conversions like this RGB->YCC). The presence of the dither noise can theoretically make the test patterns appear subjectively smoother even if it's factually the same or even ever so slightly worse (if you analyzed it quantitatively with some objective tools). This can be subjective (if you see the noise or not and if you like it or hate it) and might affect different kinds of images in different ways (some test cases benefit, some suffer, some are the same). But I guess the difference is very very small either ways.
I tend to find more comfort in the hypothetically optimal option when the subjective difference is small.
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post #17856 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 04:11 AM
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LG C8 HLG settings question

Hi guys, someone uses the HLG format at his OLED? I use it regularly on my 77C8, as I am filming with my Panasonic GH5 in HLG. The results are fantastic, my vacation movies look quite like those reference HDR discs from Planet Earth etc.. Very impressive.
But the following oddity: In any HDR mode EXCEPT "standard", bright scenes, such as a beach in the sun, noticeably darkened within a few seconds. I can really watch, as soon as I switch from standerd to i.e. Cinema Home, it is initially bright as it should be... but about 10 seconds later, it only looks "dimm". This happens as I said in all HDR presets when I use HLG, except the standard setting. Set to “standard”, the picture remains bright as it should be, even in high-APL scenes. I have tested it with different firmwares, 4..and 5.. no difference.
The usual suspects, such as automatic brightness etc. are of course switched off.
Well, this is not that dramatic now, I can use "standard" and that's great. But I would just like to know why the other modes behave like that. Does anyone have experience with it? Or maybe can test with a high APL HLG (in a very bright scene)? Or does anyone else have an idea? Just out of interest, would be great to know, what´s going on there. Thank you in advance.
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post #17857 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by LCSeminole View Post
You and Chunon are correct, the last two calibrations that ChadB had performed for me, he explicitly asked me not to post the settings. He didn't say anything about it this time, but I'm sure nothing has changed, and now that I'm a three time repeat client, Chad knows I'm well aware.
Ditto, I know that I am explicitly not supposed to share or post my calibrated settings, and have declined to do so in the past.
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post #17858 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 08:49 AM
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These are my settings after calibration. I see there are many how whant to see some settings afther calibration.
Isf Dark
oled light 95
Contrast 60
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Exp Controls
Dynamic contrast off
Super res off
color gamut auto
color filter off
gamma 2.2
white balance
warm 2
2p white high r9, g-6, b-6
low all 0
20p- all luminance is 0
5) r0, g0, b0 for .15, for 31/55 use (r -6; g11, b15)
10) -1, 1, 0
15) -1, -1.3
20) 0, 0, 2
25) 2, 0, 3
30) 3.0.3
35) 1.0, 3
40) 3.0.4
45) 3.0.3
50) 4,0,2
55) 3.0.2
60) 2.0.1
65) 2.0.2
70) 2.0.1
75) 3.0.2
80) 4.0
85) 4,0,3
90) 3.0.4
95) 3.0.4
100) 3.0.4
Colors
Red tint 2
Cyan saturation 6, tint 4
picture options
noise reduction off
mpeg low
black level auto
real cinema off
motion eye off
trumotion user
de-judder 3
de-blur 5
if you have no stutter / strobe use de & judder 6
Or use de-judder 0
Deblur 0
Or all off for no processing
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post #17859 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by opus123 View Post
The cable that doesn't fully work is a 2 year-old Redmere slim cable.. the one that works is a thick dopey 8 year old cable. Go figure.

It's not surprising. The Redmere cable is an active cable, but being as it is 2-years old, the chipsets inside the source/sink end of the cable may not be current enough to handle the newer HDMI hardware protocols. That's one of the drawbacks of active cables. The 8-year old cable apparently has a much larger wire gauge ("thick ropey cable") which can aid in handling and maintaining the signal integrity better. The downside of a heavier wire gauge cable is that you lose flexibility (bend radius) which can increase the strain on the HDMI input resulting in issues down the road.


If your cable run is under 20', then a Premium High Speed HDMI cable should work just fine. Just keep in mind bend radius when installing the cable (give yourself some flexibility at the source/sink end). If your run is over 20', then your best bet, and most reliable cable would be a hybrid fiber cable from Ruipro. They are expensive but do work very well for 4k HDR over 20'.

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post #17860 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Holm Stadermann View Post
Hi guys, someone uses the HLG format at his OLED? I use it regularly on my 77C8, as I am filming with my Panasonic GH5 in HLG. The results are fantastic, my vacation movies look quite like those reference HDR discs from Planet Earth etc.. Very impressive.
But the following oddity: In any HDR mode EXCEPT "standard", bright scenes, such as a beach in the sun, noticeably darkened within a few seconds. I can really watch, as soon as I switch from standerd to i.e. Cinema Home, it is initially bright as it should be... but about 10 seconds later, it only looks "dimm". This happens as I said in all HDR presets when I use HLG, except the standard setting. Set to “standard”, the picture remains bright as it should be, even in high-APL scenes. I have tested it with different firmwares, 4..and 5.. no difference.
The usual suspects, such as automatic brightness etc. are of course switched off.
Well, this is not that dramatic now, I can use "standard" and that's great. But I would just like to know why the other modes behave like that. Does anyone have experience with it? Or maybe can test with a high APL HLG (in a very bright scene)? Or does anyone else have an idea? Just out of interest, would be great to know, what´s going on there. Thank you in advance.

I could be wrong but I thought HLG is the HDR format for HDR OTA (Over the Air, antenna transmission) and not cable/sat. HLG will be part of the ATSC 3.0 broadcast standard here in the U.S. sometime in the future but I don't think it is being used over here yet.

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post #17861 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
I could be wrong but I thought HLG is the HDR format for HDR OTA (Over the Air, antenna transmission) and not cable/sat. HLG will be part of the ATSC 3.0 broadcast standard here in the U.S. sometime in the future but I don't think it is being used over here yet.


Actually it is used by DirectvTv for their 4K live content.


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post #17862 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
Ditto, I know that I am explicitly not supposed to share or post my calibrated settings, and have declined to do so in the past.

I think the main reason for not sharing calibrated settings is that they are specific to a panel based on the various component tolerances so that what looks great on one panel may not look so good on another panel. That in turn may result in some folks, who don't understand the difference between calibration and adjustment, think that the "borrowed" settings were not done correctly by the calibrator. Even if the borrowed settings work (look good) on your panel, that doesn't mean you have a calibrated panel. All you've done is adjust your panel to another panel.
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post #17863 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 09:21 AM
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Actually it is used by DirectvTv for their 4K live content.


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Thanks. That sort of makes sense for live HDR.
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post #17864 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 09:23 AM
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Actually it is used by DirectvTv for their 4K live content.


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No prob it’s quite good depending on the content .


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post #17865 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 09:41 AM
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No prob it’s quite good depending on the content .
Yes, I think most of the HLG stuff I've seen on Directv has been really excellent in terms of PQ. BBC Dynasties was particularly good.
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post #17866 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
It's not surprising. The Redmere cable is an active cable, but being as it is 2-years old, the chipsets inside the source/sink end of the cable may not be current enough to handle the newer HDMI hardware protocols. That's one of the drawbacks of active cables. The 8-year old cable apparently has a much larger wire gauge ("thick ropey cable") which can aid in handling and maintaining the signal integrity better. The downside of a heavier wire gauge cable is that you lose flexibility (bend radius) which can increase the strain on the HDMI input resulting in issues down the road.


If your cable run is under 20', then a Premium High Speed HDMI cable should work just fine. Just keep in mind bend radius when installing the cable (give yourself some flexibility at the source/sink end). If your run is over 20', then your best bet, and most reliable cable would be a hybrid fiber cable from Ruipro. They are expensive but do work very well for 4k HDR over 20'.
Sounds about right... thanks for the info. It's a 15' cable. AVR & TV are closer, but the extra length is used to route along the articulating arm on the wall-mount. Obviously the thinner cable gave great flexibility, so we'll see how the thicker cable holds up. Ordered a certified premium from monoprice (before i realized amazon was selling the same cable with next day delivery =( ). Hopefully get it by this weekend.
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post #17867 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sorinelionut View Post
These are my settings after calibration. I see there are many how whant to see some settings afther calibration.
Isf Dark
oled light 95
. . .
Isn't that a really high OLED Light setting for ISF Dark? I mean, what would it be for ISf Light?

And doesn't an OLED Light setting of 95 significantly increase the possibility of burn-in?

Just wondering, as I've read quite a few other threads, including on the "burn-in" threads, where the recommendation is to be careful about your OLED Light setting. I know if I had mine at 95 at nighttime, I'd be burning my retinas.
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post #17868 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cobhc2010 View Post
Yes they can, but if he then updates to a different firmware that changes the gamma (as numerous recent firmware versions have) then that messes up what the calibrator has corrected.
That goes without saying.

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post #17869 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 11:13 AM
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Look at the contrast 65...i use revers calibration...oled 95 and contrast 65 is for my room and to my eyes is better this, then 45/50 oled and contrast 85.
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post #17870 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 11:14 AM
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Sorry contrast 60
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post #17871 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 11:26 AM
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I have two questions for you guys about my LG C8. People say to leave trumotion off, but sometimes in movies I noticed when they are panning or fast action it seems to run slightly choppy. I notice this mostly on 4k movies. I have Cinema enabled. So turning on trumotion would still be a worse option?

Other question is about color accuracy and calibration. Everyone says use Technicolor. And the fact that it looks dark and yellow is a good thing. I hear people say "just watch it for two weeks and your eyes will get use to it". But if it looks worse, why would you want your eyes to have to get use to it? just trying to figure out how yellow, dull is suppose to be "better"
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post #17872 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sorinelionut View Post
Look at the contrast 65...i use revers calibration...oled 95 and contrast 65 is for my room and to my eyes is better this, then 45/50 oled and contrast 85.
That's fine. You got to do what makes you happy. I just think you (and others who might see your settings) should be aware that quite a few "experts" (and I do not consider myself one at all) say that a very high OLED Light setting increases the probability of burn-in. In fact, every time somebody on one of the burn-in threads says that they got burn-in, the first question that is invariably asked is, "What is your OLED Light setting/." And when someone says it is above 80 or in the range, the response from folks is invariably, "Well, no wonder."

Perhaps the lower contrast setting counteracts a higher OLED Light setting somewhat, I don't know -- but then again, 65 contrast is not that low.

Just passing along what I've read.
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The settings are measured on a colorimeter, double-cast spectro. Initially i kept them on 45 night 55/65 for day. But I'm having a big problem with the TV, I can not stand it and the stutter / strobe effect is very uncomfortable. So instead of calibrating light-based modes, I've been working on setting a way that I like and changing the motion settings between mods of the tv.
Like this technicolor all off in motion.
Isf dark user 3/5, isf day user o/o, cinema user 6/5. In all cinema motion is off.
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post #17874 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Braggtrooper View Post
I have two questions for you guys about my LG C8. People say to leave trumotion off, but sometimes in movies I noticed when they are panning or fast action it seems to run slightly choppy. I notice this mostly on 4k movies. I have Cinema enabled. So turning on trumotion would still be a worse option?

Other question is about color accuracy and calibration. Everyone says use Technicolor. And the fact that it looks dark and yellow is a good thing. I hear people say "just watch it for two weeks and your eyes will get use to it". But if it looks worse, why would you want your eyes to have to get use to it? just trying to figure out how yellow, dull is suppose to be "better"
Oh man you are so right. I once had my plasma 55VT30 Panasonic calibrated. The point is that one should have the right expectations.

When your tv gets calibrated and the calibrator does a good job your tv will look close to official standards. This however can be far off from what you perceive as being correct. For instance the settings posted on this page are very characteristic but I will tell you IMO what the result is:

1:The picture will look very very dark. Try to use these settings and watch a daylight scene . You will get the immediate impression that the sun is about to set. So dark that in dark scenes you will be having a hard time to see any detail. Especially with scenes on a beach or at sea during a sunny day. Where is the light? Let there be light.
2: The picture will turn very yellow. So yellow that when you watch snowboarding you think it is set in the Maroccan desert.
3: most of the time dejudder and deblur are set to zero. this is because the picture most look ' as natural and close to the directors' intent as possible. Believe me the actors will look like walking puppets stuttering a lot of the time.
4: With the calibrations I saw sharpness is always turned to zero because again we follow the ' directors 'intent. Yes it is correct that sharpness causes faults but then again especially with tv broadcasts it gives the picture a bit more pop. Off course you should not exaggerate this. As soon as you see artefacts turn it down.

Normally I use the setting 'Standard' with my LG77c8. At the moment because of the horrible fw 04.10.31 I was forced to use ISF expert because in standard mode you cannot change the white balance. As soon though as 05-20-00 or higher is installed I will go back to standard immediately.
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post #17875 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 01:06 PM
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^^ That is why they say do not use other peoples calibration settings. These sets will differ panel to panel. You two see yellow most of us do not.
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post #17876 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Braggtrooper View Post
Other question is about color accuracy and calibration. Everyone says use Technicolor. And the fact that it looks dark and yellow is a good thing. I hear people say "just watch it for two weeks and your eyes will get use to it". But if it looks worse, why would you want your eyes to have to get use to it? just trying to figure out how yellow, dull is suppose to be "better"
Well, if it's yellow and dull because the picture is not accurate, that would not be a good thing and nobody is suggesting that one should get used to and accept an inaccurate picture. The problem is that sometimes what people initially thinks looks bad to them (yellow or dark or dull) looks that way only because they have become accustomed to an inaccurate picture. So the suggestion is to live with a picture that most people think might be accurate and to see if you eyes and brain adjust over time to the point that you can see that the picture is indeed accurate.

If you really are seeing too much yellow in Technicolor Expert, perhaps try switching to Warm 1 from Warm 2 , or vice-versa (I forget what the default is.) And you could also try one of the calibration disks to adjust your set. But again, the idea is that (1) if you start from a base line that experienced owners of the set tend to think is generally accurate out of the box, and (2) you give your eyes and brain a few days or a week or two to adjust to a picture that might be closer to accurate than what you are used to, and (3) you let the set break in for 100 or so hours before really tweaking settings to your liking -- then you might have a better chance of ending up with a picture that is accurate and with which you will be pleased.

That's my take on it.
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Last edited by smitty; 06-03-2019 at 03:21 PM.
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post #17877 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 03:11 PM
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Oh man you are so right. I once had my plasma 55VT30 Panasonic calibrated. The point is that one should have the right expectations.



When your tv gets calibrated and the calibrator does a good job your tv will look close to official standards. This however can be far off from what you perceive as being correct. For instance the settings posted on this page are very characteristic but I will tell you IMO what the result is:



1:The picture will look very very dark. Try to use these settings and watch a daylight scene . You will get the immediate impression that the sun is about to set. So dark that in dark scenes you will be having a hard time to see any detail. Especially with scenes on a beach or at sea during a sunny day. Where is the light? Let there be light.

2: The picture will turn very yellow. So yellow that when you watch snowboarding you think it is set in the Maroccan desert.

3: most of the time dejudder and deblur are set to zero. this is because the picture most look ' as natural and close to the directors' intent as possible. Believe me the actors will look like walking puppets stuttering a lot of the time.

4: With the calibrations I saw sharpness is always turned to zero because again we follow the ' directors 'intent. Yes it is correct that sharpness causes faults but then again especially with tv broadcasts it gives the picture a bit more pop. Off course you should not exaggerate this. As soon as you see artefacts turn it down.



Normally I use the setting 'Standard' with my LG77c8. At the moment because of the horrible fw 04.10.31 I was forced to use ISF expert because in standard mode you cannot change the white balance. As soon though as 05-20-00 or higher is installed I will go back to standard immediately.


I have had several pro calibrations and have not found anything you are saying here to be remotely true. Sounds like you had a bad calibration experience it fortunately is not the experience of most .


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post #17878 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
I have had several pro calibrations and have not found anything you are saying here to be remotely true. Sounds like you had a bad calibration experience it fortunately is not the experience of most .


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I have to second your opinion. I have never had those kind of issues with my past calibrated sets. Very possible he had a bad calibration done.

Also in my own opinion, especially with the lg oled sets, standard should not be the preferred setting if he is looking for out of the box accuracy. Isf bright & dark as well as Technicolor are much better presets if you don't have your set calibrated.

Then again everyone likes there picture a certain way or perceives what they think looks good can be different then what it should be.

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post #17879 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 03:51 PM
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2018 LG C8-E8 Owners' Thread (No Price Talk)

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Originally Posted by Jrocker23 View Post
I have to second your opinion. I have never had those kind of issues with my past calibrated sets. Very possible he had a bad calibration done.

Also in my own opinion, especially with the lg oled sets, standard should not be the preferred setting if he is looking for out of the box accuracy. Isf bright & dark as well as Technicolor are much better presets if you don't have your set calibrated.

Then again everyone likes there picture a certain way or perceives what they think looks good can be different then what it should be.

TV - LG C8 & LG C6, AVR - Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Switch


Yeah definitely agree there it’s the old reference vs preference argument , standard mode appears garish to me . I definitely don’t push calibration it is not for everyone that’s for sure .


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Last edited by chunon; 06-03-2019 at 04:31 PM.
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post #17880 of 19307 Old 06-03-2019, 05:04 PM
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There are people who prefer the calibrated picture because it gives them a standard, and if they like it they get some sort of a look alike picture as they go from display to display. Some people say they can see more into the picture, and the picture is more revealing. There are others that can't stand for there's to have a film look on all types of viewing. I am one of those. I have spent the money for calibration equipment and hours on end learning tricks to squeeze all there is to get out of a display. In My Humble Opinion, I like a little more natural look to my day to day TV viewing and sports viewing.

It's all in what you like and that's all there is.
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