Very nice, I wish I could have found a 65" that looked half as good as that.

Looks like some cyan and yellow tinting in the middle right? Same area as mine. Either way, it doesn't look like you have magenta tint which is the biggest issue IMO.

I agree with Cleveland. If you do not notice any tinting in content, don't try to find it with slides. I only checked slides to confirm what I was already seeing in content.

Always the luck of the draw.........maybe the bigger ones are pron to more tinting/screen uniformity issues, but to be fair we would have to open 10------55", 65" and 77" units and run a test.......

Yes, the only neutral setting is "0". Sadly, this is not the default
values 1-10 perform edge smoothing.
values 11+ also perform sharpening.

Pictures by jk82 (iirc) attached to verify.

HTH.

NB: That Technicolour "Warm1" whitepoint: (x=0.3000, y=0.3270) was created for a perceptual match with the Xenon DCI Cinema Projector, not anything you can use as a consumer, so it is of no practical use for the home . Source for that is Wifi-Spy on the calibration threads here on AVS.

This is the absolute key, and all that anyone needs to take away, really!

• Technicolor with Color Temperature = Warm1, uses the special x=0.3000, y=0.3270 whitepoint for a perceptual match with the Xenon DCI Cinema Projector, use it for fun and experimentation.
• Everything else - ie Technicolor with Color Temperature = Warm2, Warm3, Medium, Cool - they all use the standard D65 White point. It's not the entire Technicolor mode. It's just one temperature preset in one mode.

Attached Thumbnails

   

This is an older post, but Rtings reviewed the 55" and I can tell you that a full white screen on the 55" looks more white than on the 65, which is more grey. I wonder if that is related to a more aggressive ABL on the 65?

Looking into buying a 65” E9 but need to know the width of the widest portion of the pedestal stand. Could anybody help me out?

I’m planning on setting it up atop a Sonos playbase, so if anybody has pics of that setup, that would be super helpful too.

Thanks!

I think if you look up a few posts (my last one) you can see where I was successfully able to get my receiver/c9/pc setup working properly after spending hours and hours trying to fix (this is my first day of ownership less than 24 hours old now).

My setup new offers everything my old setup (b6 onkyo atmos receiver and windows 10 pc with 2080 ti gpu) including 5.1 and 7.1 lpcm output from pc while also allowing full atmos / true hd to be decoded as well

I can also use all the built in apps via ARC and decode vision and atmos (lossy) when it being provided (tested with Jack Ryan on Amazon Prime)

No need to connect anything to my display except the receiver have both windows pc and nvidia shield running through receiver without any issues and can playback all audio/video formats they both support (Initially I had to go around the receiver for 1440p/120 and still only had stereo audio option in windows 10)

The one thing that didnt work perfect was the 1440p/120 but I added a custom resolution and it took it fine and can be switched to in game quite easily.

I had tried everything including a full factory reset of both receiver and tv and turning off and back on at multiple stages all the variable ARC / CEC features of each device.

Now everything is working correct just wanted to see if a solution was still being looked for or if I'm just late to the party.

I've read 30 pages of this forum so far but I still haven't found where someone solved this without resorting to multiple hdmi outputs or optical etc.

Can anyone confirm if this has been resolved previously??

John,

How do the 77C9's look to you?

They came out later so, so far not bad.

Mine looks great after about 400 hours. I did one compensation cycle after there was increased banding that went away.
I don't see major issues with content but I don't go looking for problems.

- Rich

Any help with this? I've asked a couple of times and even tried a separate thread with no response. I can throw in a banding question if it would help I assume some people are running the tv to a receiver. After some more research I don't think I can get the LG to load the tv guide unless I connect it with something other than a HDMI cable. I've thought about cutting the cord and going to YouTube TV which I could control through the TV. Just trying to get the most functionality out of the tv and still have the best picture/audio possible.

Perhaps, but at the store I threw up a 100% white slide on their display models and the 65" was similar to my 3, and their 55 was pretty clean, not as good as mine, but not nearly as bad as the 4 65" I tested. It only has 2 areas of different tinting. The 4 65s all had at least 4 distinct vertical bands of cyan, magenta, yellowish and a blue. Attached is the display model 55. It was also high up on the wall so the tinting may be exaggerated by the angle I was taking the photo at.

Maybe I just have terrible luck, but I had a similar experience 3 years ago. Tried 2 Vizio P series and 2 M series and all with terrible DSE and grey uniformity. Opted for the 55 KS8000 and it was perfect. Im just not destined to own a TV larger than 55” I guess.

I am also having this issue on the new TV as well so it must be something with the Xbox.

Things I have tried:
-Hard Resetting Xbox
-Multiple HDMI cables including a brand new one.
-Deleting and reinstalling the Blu-Ray app
-I tried turning off Deep Color on the TV and HDR in the Xbox menu and tried it at 1080p, still no luck. I also disabled VRR and ALLM.


I guess my next step is to completely reset my Xbox, but that is a real pain.

Can I add subwoofer to E9?

What's a good warranty provider for these tv's outside the one year that LG offers?

Your going to get varying answers and your home theater setup has nothing to do with the performance of the TV that’s why no ones responding.

But my answer is using the TV remote as a universal remote and ARC is a bad idea for any TV. Have you read the last 50 pages of ARC problems? I’ve told people use optical at least 3 times now. Use optical, turn off CEC, use a universal remote. Easy. If you are worried about higher quality audio through streaming use a fire tv, Apple TV, ect.

No, it’s not like the Sony.

Can someone share their optimal settings for me? I like a little bit of pop.


I tried Rtings.com but I'm running everything through my PS4, so I have SDR gaming, HDR gaming, SDR Netflix/Plex and HDR Netflix/Plex. Its all on one input.

Well if you want pop, I suggest using what looks best to you.

Off the top of my head, I am not in front of my TV, if you want most accurate:
SDR you want isf Dark, set back light to taste, turn off all the extra processing junk turn sharpness to 0.
HDR you want cinema, and turn off all the processing junk, even dynamic tone mapping turn sharpness to 0.
Gaming and HDR gaming, adjust color to 50 from 55, turn sharpness to 0, turn off any processing, set color temp to warm 2

Thanks Brad.


I have ALLM enabled but it does not seem to recognize game input (it should auto switch to game mode right?), but it does not. So I manually select it, if I open Netflix it switches to HDR even if I'm not watching HDR content, and the HDR video mode was cinema. When my game launches HDR it too switches to Cinema HDR.


So I manually select game HDR but Netflix now runs game HDR. I have to manually select the video setting every time depending on the application. Is this normal?

The only thing I would disagree with you on is turning off dynamic tone mapping for games in HDR. By default it's on and RTINGs left HDR at it's default when they tested input lag. Dynamic Tone Mapping helps quite a bit for HDR games.

PS4 does not support ALLM.

Ah lame, thanks. PS5 can't come soon enough. Hopefully the Plex app is better and supports HDR.



I don't see where it recommends Dynamic Tone Mapping though.

https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c9-oled/settings

Dynamic tone mapping is enabled by default for HDR content in game mode. I wouldn't suggest it for non gaming HDR, but I think it helps a lot for games.

I'll give it a go. Tried GT Sport without it and it looked really nice.

For those who owned plasmas before switching to OLED, how does BFI on the C9 compare to plasma? Is the amount of flickering comparable?

I switched from a plasma to a B7 a few years ago, but made the mistake of hooking up my old Samsung 8500 to watch a movie. Wow, clarity of the motion is just night and day vs the OLED. That experience had me thinking that maybe I should upgrade to an OLED with BFI.

I got a 65 inch c9. Mine looks pretty clean I think.
I was wondering what setup stuff I need to do to get the best picture?

New house purchase and the living mantle was a lot bigger than old, so my aging 65" B7 looked small, picked up a C9 77" and it was a perfect fit, in living room I use a Sonos setup, the newer C9 had Sonos as an option, so setup was simple. The screens great, tested with an xbox one x and a ps4 pro, apple tv, bell fibe 4k receiver etc. It pretty much new what was connected other than the Bell 4k PVR


Bought an 85" 950G for basement but then the C9 went on sale for labor day, went back, got the $1k back on my original purchase, plus the current 1K off and traded my purchase (85" didn't ship yet), so now this week coming Ill have a second c9 77" show up on wednesday for my man cave.


Great tv, looks amazing and the HDMI 2.1 was one of my main reasons for the purchase

It's similar. Flickering might be a bit more noticeable on the OLED, but just as with all things, if you let your eyes adapt, it's like the flicker isn't there. You gotta remember, our eyes are like our ears. The longer we let them acclimate to a change, the easier it gets. You can't see in the dark when you first go into a dark room, then as you spend some time there, you can start seeing. The same can be said with flickering. You notice it at first, then as you start playing and focusing on other things, it fades into the background, and stops being noticeable. But you will always get a the huge benefit of motion clarity. It's not as good as an LCD with BFI, but it's on the level of a plasma, which tend to have like 700 lines of motion resolution. OLED is close to that. I believe 600 lines or so. By comparison, LCD and OLED without BFI is 300 lines of motion res. I can't accept that when gaming. It's too blurry.

Several weeks after replacing my Kuro with a C9, I'm starting to accept OLED. It's not plasma. BFI does nothing for me. I don't care what other folks say, OLED motion is horrible compared with plasma. And, yes I looked the Sony, too. That sucks with motion, too.

Like me, you will just have to learn to deal with it. I sure do miss my Kuro, but I am starting to miss it less and less, as time goes by. And, I am really enjoying the benefits of OLED and 4K. I think I'll get past it.


(but, the Kuro is still in the box in the basement, just in case )

Just use ISF Dark or Bright, adjust the OLED light for your room lighting and enjoy the set.