Just received my 65" E9 last Friday and got it all set up last weekend. Around the same time I also received the Samsung HW-Q90R soundbar to setup with the TV. Long story short, even though there are some quirks and a learning curve, I'm loving the new setup. Aesthetically, it looks very sleek and pairs well together.
This setup replaces my older TV and AV receiver (Samsung PN51F8500 51" Plasma and an Onkyo HT-S770 6.1 HTIB). Setup, for the most part, was a breeze. I did have to do some adjustments to my entertainment center stand so that the soundbar didn't impede on the view of the screen. Using some ceramic floor tiles (2x 12x24, 1x 12x12) layered between some rubber matting give the TV just enough height so that the display clears the top of the Q90R. I hooked up the following devices to it:
HDMI 1: Apple TV 4K 64GB
HDMI 2 (eARC): Samsung HW-Q90R Soundbar
HDMI 3: Nintendo Switch
HDMI 4: Samsung Bluray Player
All four are hooked up using new 6-10ft certified Premium High Speed HDMI with Ethernet cables. 3 of the cables are Crutchfield and one is Philips (a last minute buy when one of my older directional Monoprice HDMI cables for the Switch wasn't playing nice, causing the screen to flicker badly and constantly lose connection). I have the TV's sound setup going through the sound bar and have ARC selected and eARC enabled. The soundbar was updated to 1008 (?) using the supplied USB drive that came with it. For the most part, the sound has been working fine. I only had one issue when trying to watch Cannon Busters on Netflix where the ambient audio could be heard but none of the dialog. Other shows had no issues. Flipping the audio settings from Bitstream to PCM for the Apple TV 4K input got the dialog audio back. Strangely, I switched it back to Bitstream and that particular episode was acting fine again and I haven't seen that problem since. The other minor audio issue is with the Switch. Setting its audio option to Surround doesn't seem to be working properly. When doing the sound test on the Switch, I only hear 2 out of 6 of the test tones. Changing it to Stereo I can hear all 6 tones. I'm not sure what is up with that.
The viewing experience has been great so far. Watching movies such as How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World in 4K really puts the Dolby Vision HDR to good use. Even 1080P content looks good! The other night I did notice a visual anomaly when watching a Youtube 4K video from First We Feasts channel, Hot Ones S9E11 with Kristen Bell. Whenever the show would do a closeup of Kristen Bell, the black background would flicker (macro blocking issue?). It's the only time I have noticed this. Turning off noise reduction or MPEG noise reduction didn't help. What did work for me was lowering the brightness from the default 50 to something a tad lower, 45. Dropping this down a few notches stopped the flickering completely. I'm using the Cinema Home (User) picture mode. Is this the solution or is there a better method?
The other quirk I ran into happened the other day. I was playing the Switch and when I was trying to load up a game the screen went blank briefly then to the LG artwork screensaver with a popup saying no input was detected, on any input . I tried changing inputs, but no luck. It briefly flashed back to the Switch then went out again. After turning on another device, the Apple TV 4K, the screen eventually went back to an HDMI source (the Apple TV 4K in this instance). I was then able to switch back over to the Switch and continued playing. Later that night, it did the same thing as I was playing the Switch. Again, I had to either power cycle the TV or turn on another device. I was wondering if it was the game mode option in the menu that was enabled causing the problem, but changing that to off did nothing. What may have worked is there is an option turned on for Auto Power On, allowing connected devices to automatically turn on and off the TV when they turn on or off. I really like this option, which I will explain later, so I was bummed that turning it off seems to have fixed my problem. I will say that during the instances that I experienced this lost source input issue, I would start off watching the Apple TV 4K then would change over to the Switch without putting the Apple TV 4K to sleep (since putting the Apple TV 4K to sleep would turn off the TV). If disabling the Auto Power On is the fix, I am wondering if the Apple TV 4K going to sleep in the background is screwing with the TV and causing it to "lose" connectivity to the input sources. I've never experienced this while just watching the Apple TV 4K. So far, it's only been when playing the Switch (which I don't do often). Is this the right solution or should I be looking elsewhere?
Which brings me back to the Auto Power On. I really like this feature and would hope there is a way I can turn it back on and not experience the issue mentioned above. Not only does this feature simplify my ability to use the TV (majority of our watching goes through the Apple TV 4K, I don't have cable TV services), it's also a nice work around to a problem created by having a sound bar in front of the TV: the sound bar makes it really difficult for the TV to receive an IR signal from the remote. What's crazy is that I can control the volume, access the menu, and use the remote's pointer all without issue when the TV is on and no need to have any line of site to the IR receiver. However, when any attempt is made to turn on or off the TV, that IR signal is used. I don't even have the soundbar against the TV, there is a few inches separating the two. But it's enough where I can't use the remote to power on/off the TV from a seated position. The Auto Power On alleviated this problem for me. I even have my TV connected to Alexa and I can turn the TV off via Alexa and perform other functions yet Alexa won't allow me to turn the TV on (it says that it isn't a supported feature). How ack basswards is that?
Just when I thought I no longer needed my Harmony Hub, I feel like the inability to easily power on/off the TV is forcing me to break it back out and wire up the IR blasters to help solve this problem. Just more wires and more complexity to perform such a simple task. I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has them.
Again, I'm really enjoying this TV. I just need to iron out some of the bugs.
On an different note: If the sound bar is connected to the HDMI ARC input and eARC is turned on, am I only allowed to connect input devices to the TV or can I use both the TV and the soundbar's HDMI inputs? I had one other device that I would like to connect to the TV (Steam Link) but I ran out of HDMI inputs. While it isn't a deal breaker to not have it connected, it would be nice to know if I have the option to do that if I wanted to eventually plug it in.