2019 C9–E9 Owner's Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 214 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6391 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 05:45 AM
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2019 C9–E9 Owner's Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raven Crimson View Post
In the Picture Settings. Go down to Expert Contyrols. It's the second option in there. In HDR only.



They're not kidding when they say dynamic. You can get inky blacks in a corridor in Gears 5, turn around, and turn around again to the same view as before, and the blacks will be grey. With it turned off, the black levels will remain constant. It's a shame because the contrast is generally better with DTM turned on for me, but I can't get over dark scenes being elevated like that.


Where you setting it on high resolution?


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Last edited by DRC72; 09-14-2019 at 05:55 AM.
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post #6392 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by PittyH View Post
You mean a few weeks.

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NVIDIA G-SYNC Compatible support for LG’s 2019 OLED TVs will become available in select markets via a firmware upgrade in the weeks to follow.
Your faith in LG being that fast is admirable, but not really based on their past performance . Normally "the weeks to follow" would be quite soon, but don't get your hopes up. It's much better to just expect that it will be later in the year. Then you can be pleasantly surprised if it's earlier than that.

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post #6393 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRC72 View Post
Appreciate the help. I’m gonna experiment with that setting myself. Now my next question, what is BFI?


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BFI = black frame insertion
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post #6394 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjaurelio View Post
BFI = black frame insertion


Thank you appreciate the response! Still learning all these acronyms and how my TV works as well.


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post #6395 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 07:25 AM
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Just got 77C9 for two weeks now... Love the TV. when I program a macro for my universal remote (URC-mx880) to turn on the TV and switch input, it is very fast. I only need to add 2 second delay between power on and input change. It is much faster than my old panasonic 65ST60.

Tried ARC connecting to my Denon AVR-3312ci but there was no sound. Gave up and use optical out instead since I want to connect ATV 4K and Nvidia Shield directly to the TV for HDR.

I tried to program and learn LG netflix/amazon button for my universal remote but it won't work. it seems LG remote does not emitting traditional IR signal. what kind of wireless connection does LG remote use?
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post #6396 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
Tried ARC connecting to my Denon AVR-3312ci but there was no sound. Gave up and use optical out instead since I want to connect ATV 4K and Nvidia Shield directly to the TV for HDR.

I tried to program and learn LG netflix/amazon button for my universal remote but it won't work. it seems LG remote does not emitting traditional IR signal. what kind of wireless connection does LG remote use?
It's bluetooth. You may have to turn off "HDMI ultra HD deep colour" in Picture/additional settings for your Denon AVR's sound to work - various other ARC troubleshooting steps are available of course

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post #6397 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
Just got 77C9 for two weeks now... Love the TV. when I program a macro for my universal remote (URC-mx880) to turn on the TV and switch input, it is very fast. I only need to add 2 second delay between power on and input change. It is much faster than my old panasonic 65ST60.

Tried ARC connecting to my Denon AVR-3312ci but there was no sound. Gave up and use optical out instead since I want to connect ATV 4K and Nvidia Shield directly to the TV for HDR.

I tried to program and learn LG netflix/amazon button for my universal remote but it won't work. it seems LG remote does not emitting traditional IR signal. what kind of wireless connection does LG remote use?
As long as your Magic Remote is paired to your LG OLED the Remote will use
Bluetooth.

If you unlink your Magic Remote from your TV the remote will use IR.
Then you are able teach commands to your universal remote. If you are done you can link your Magic Remote
again.


To unpair your Magic Remote:
- Press "Home and back" (at the same time) for like 5 seconds while your television is turned on.
A message should pop up that tells you that your Magic Remote has been disconnected.

To pair your Magic Remote again:
- Press OK (wheel button) for 5 seconds. A message (once again) pops up that tells you
that your Magic Remote is connected.

Note:
Some Buttons/Features on your Magic Remote are locked behind "Bluetooth".
For example: Long-Pressing the settings button will get you right into your Picture settings, while
your Magic Remote is using bluetooth. If you are using "IR Mode" this long-press does not work. You will only get to the small
settings menu and have to go to the picure settings the long way.
Netflix and Amazon Prime Button on the other hand are working just fine in IR Mode.
So you should not have any problem to add these buttons to your universal remote.
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post #6398 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenster3000 View Post
As long as your Magic Remote is paired to your LG OLED the Remote will use
Bluetooth.

If you unlink your Magic Remote from your TV the remote will use IR.
Then you are able teach commands to your universal remote. If you are done you can link your Magic Remote
again.


To unpair your Magic Remote:
- Press "Home and back" (at the same time) for like 5 seconds while your television is turned on.
A message should pop up that tells you that your Magic Remote has been disconnected.

To pair your Magic Remote again:
- Press OK (wheel button) for 5 seconds. A message (once again) pops up that tells you
that your Magic Remote is connected.

Note:
Some Buttons/Features on your Magic Remote are locked behind "Bluetooth".
For example: Long-Pressing the settings button will get you right into your Picture settings, while
your Magic Remote is using bluetooth. If you are using "IR Mode" this long-press does not work. You will only get to the small
settings menu and have to go to the picure settings the long way.
Netflix and Amazon Prime Button on the other hand are working just fine in IR Mode.
So you should not have any problem to add these buttons to your universal remote.
I have discrete code for Picture which takes me directly to Picture mode. But I have no use for it yet since I always use the same Cinema Home. I have other discrete codes like HDMI 1, 2, 3, 4, sleep, Aspect Ratio, Power on, and Power off. I use all of these codes. For example, I use Aspect to change between Zoom and 16:9 to make sure I always have full screen without black bars for any TV programs to prevent burn-in. with a click of a button, my tv would go to sleep option and set to 20 seconds to sleep.

Last edited by normanfox; 09-14-2019 at 08:29 AM.
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post #6399 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabelrode View Post
I wasn't sure I would notice much of a difference with the input lag improvements coming from C7P to a C9P. After finally firing up some games, I was blown away by how much smoother it feels now.
That is great that you noticed a difference, always nice to see those improvements right before your eye's. What did you do with the C7P?
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post #6400 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
I have discrete code for Picture which takes me directly to Picture mode. But I have no use for it yet since I always use the same Cinema Home. I have other discrete codes like HDMI 1, 2, 3, 4, sleep, Aspect Ratio, Power on, and Power off. I use all of these codes. For example, I use Aspect to change between Zoom and 16:9 to make sure I always have full screen without black bars for any TV programs to prevent burn-in. with a click of a button, my tv would go to sleep option and set to 20 seconds to sleep.
Just to advise, black bar programs and movies don't cause burn in. There is a video by rtings and some others that tested black bars over time and there were no issues.

I can't find the video at the moment but hopefully someone may post a link.

Burn in is really not an issue if your content varies...


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post #6401 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
I have discrete code for Picture which takes me directly to Picture mode. But I have no use for it yet since I always use the same Cinema Home. I have other discrete codes like HDMI 1, 2, 3, 4, sleep, Aspect Ratio, Power on, and Power off. I use all of these codes. For example, I use Aspect to change between Zoom and 16:9 to make sure I always have full screen without black bars for any TV programs to prevent burn-in. with a click of a button, my tv would go to sleep option and set to 20 seconds to sleep.
I was more talking about the advanced picture settings. Not about the picture presets ^__^
As Jrocker23 already said: Black bars do not burn in. Black means = Pixels off.
Since these pixels are not used they won't show any signs of wear.

In other words: There is no need to mess around with the aspect ratio

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post #6402 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
Apparently the edge smoothing in Sharpness setting values 1-10 was a C8 feature that was not carried over to the C9 (or at least my C9).
Quote:
Originally Posted by b_rad4 View Post
Which means it should be set to 0 or 10?
I've done some more experimentation with this, and I've found that the anti-aliasing is actually present at Sharpness 1-10 when the C9 is upscaling from a lower resolution (I tested at 1080p and 720p). When I tested previously, my UDP-203 was doing the upscaling to 3840 x 2160. Based on the photo examples in the 8 series thread, the 8 series also applied anti-aliasing to full 4k 3840 x 2160 where my C9 is not. (I consider this an improvement. Great to have anti-aliasing available for lower than native resolution without affecting sources/inputs at the native resolution.)

I need to examine closer and see if the C9 appears to be accomplishing correct integer ratio upscaling at Sharpness 0, where each 1080 pixel becomes a 2x2 block, and each 720 pixel becomes a 3x3 block. What I have noticed is that allowing the C9 to perform upscaling from 1080p results in some loss of the highest resolution chroma, where allowing the UDP-203 to performing the upscaling does not (apparent on Chroma Multibursts from Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark 2nd Edition).

Ultimately if you want to eliminate the anti-aliasing when the C9 is upscaling video, then you will need to set the Sharpness to 0.

I've also been experimenting with the "Super Resolution" setting, and I'm seeing almost no change regardless of its setting. On alternating pixels at 1080p (C9 doing the upscaling) I can see a slight increase in contrast or luminance with Super Resolution set to "High" almost as if there is a slight gamma change. I'm not detecting any effect on anything else.
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post #6403 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raven Crimson View Post
In the Picture Settings. Go down to Expert Contyrols. It's the second option in there. In HDR only.

They're not kidding when they say dynamic. You can get inky blacks in a corridor in Gears 5, turn around, and turn around again to the same view as before, and the blacks will be grey. With it turned off, the black levels will remain constant. It's a shame because the contrast is generally better with DTM turned on for me, but I can't get over dark scenes being elevated like that.
You have to be more specific as to when Dynamic Tone Mapping will appear. I consider both HDR10 and Dolby Vision to fall within the term "HDR". So when I was looking for this setting I was looking for it while watching Dolby Vision content but it only shows up when watching HDR10 content.

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post #6404 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fenster3000 View Post
I was more talking about the advanced picture settings. Not about the picture presets ^__^
As Jrocker23 already said: Black bars do not burn in. Black means = Pixels off.
Since these pixels are not used they won't show any signs of wear.

In other words: There is no need to mess around with the aspect ratio
I did not know this. Is this confirmed and tested? Coming from plasma, I always thought black bars can cause burn in. would some pixels off and other on would cause some kind of nonuniform over time?
My previous Panasonic ST30 had burn-in caused by closed caption

Last edited by normanfox; 09-14-2019 at 09:25 AM.
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post #6405 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:34 AM
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2019 C9–E9 Owner's Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by fenster3000 View Post
I was more talking about the advanced picture settings. Not about the picture presets ^__^

As Jrocker23 already said: Black bars do not burn in. Black means = Pixels off.

Since these pixels are not used they won't show any signs of wear.



In other words: There is no need to mess around with the aspect ratio


I was wondering about this myself, It would make sense that with the pixels not being turned on no burn in would be present


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post #6406 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raven Crimson View Post
In the Picture Settings. Go down to Expert Contyrols. It's the second option in there. In HDR only.

They're not kidding when they say dynamic. You can get inky blacks in a corridor in Gears 5, turn around, and turn around again to the same view as before, and the blacks will be grey. With it turned off, the black levels will remain constant. It's a shame because the contrast is generally better with DTM turned on for me, but I can't get over dark scenes being elevated like that.
You have to be more specific as to when Dynamic Tone Mapping will appear. I consider both HDR10 and Dolby Vision to fall within the term "HDR". So when I was looking for this setting I was looking for it while watching Dolby Vision content but it only shows up when watching HDR10 content.
Considering Dolby Vision has its own dynamic tone mapping, I figured it was common knowledge, and that something like the LG C9's DTM wouldn't be an option as it is redundant.
HDR 10 doesn't have its own DTM...

As for Hybrid Log Gamma, I dunno. Haven't played anything with it yet.

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Last edited by Raven Crimson; 09-14-2019 at 10:18 AM.
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post #6407 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post
You have to be more specific as to when Dynamic Tone Mapping will appear. I consider both HDR10 and Dolby Vision to fall within the term "HDR". So when I was looking for this setting I was looking for it while watching Dolby Vision content but it only shows up when watching HDR10 content.
Indeed. I frown upon the use of the umbrella term "HDR" to describe only one particular format (ie HDR10) of the many HDR formats, and it's a great pity that LG is very guilty of doing this in the naming of their menus.

The concept of Dynamic Tone Mapping, (but specifically not LG's "Dynamic Tone Mapping" which should only operate on for HDR10 signals*) is baked into the Dolby Vision format. This means that you don't get a choice whether to turn it on or off: if you're watching Dolby Vision it's already dynamically tone mapped whether you like it or not!

IMHO it would be clearer for users if LG had included it in the menus for the Dolby Vision picture modes, but show it as both greyed out and turned on. But, that would be technically wrong since LG's DTM is a HDR10-only feature.

EDIT: for @Raven Crimson
*Testing just now on my C8, it also has an effect on HLG signals, which surprised me. HLG has no metadata. But if it's doing what they say it is - ignoring any and all metadata and instead analysing the peak brightness of the input signal and tone mapping accordingly, I suppose I can understand.
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post #6408 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
I did not know this. Is this confirmed and tested? Coming from plasma, I always thought black bars can cause burn in. would some pixels off and other on would cause some kind of nonuniform over time?
My previous Panasonic ST30 had burn-in caused by closed caption
Quote:
Black letterbox bars have been displayed for over 2,500 hours. This has not caused noticeable uniformity issues yet.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/perm...rn-in-lcd-oled


Just make sure that your TV is able to do its pixel refresh-cycle. So
do not plug the power plug when you turn of your TV. Leave it in standby.

With that being done everything should be ok.

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post #6409 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by fenster3000 View Post
https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/perm...rn-in-lcd-oled


Just make sure that your TV is able to do its pixel refresh-cycle. So
do not plug the power plug when you turn of your TV. Leave it in standby.

With that being done everything should be ok.
out of the box, the pixel refresh is off, why did LG set this on from the factory?

Rtings purple screen shows visible line where Top and bottom Letterbox bars are.

Last edited by normanfox; 09-14-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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post #6410 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
out of the box, the pixel refresh is off, why did LG set this on from the factory?
I do not think that you are able to enable/disable the pixel refresher.
There are two types of pixel refreshers:

- A small one (which takes around 5 minutes). This one will start as after 4 hours of content (cumulated) has been displayed (This can not be controlled manually).
- A large one which takes up to one hour. This one can be either started from the OLED-Panel-Settings-menu. Or it will be started by the TV after your TV has around 1000 - 3000 on the clock. Note: Do not start the long refresh cycle on your own unless you have Image Retention that does not get fixed by the small cycle.

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post #6411 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 10:11 AM
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I meant common knowledge (not common SENSE, I apologize) that DV has its own dynamic tone mapping, hence why the LG C9's option wouldn't be enabled on it.

I'm mainly a gamer, and pretty much the only HDR in games is HDR10, with very few exceptions that have DV.

I'm still on the fence between turning DTM on and off. I can't decide, lol. It'd be easier if I DIDN'T use TruMotion User (bfi), since the brightness would be much higher when its off, and I probably wouldn't feel the need to use DTM.
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post #6412 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenster3000 View Post
As Jrocker23 already said: Black bars do not burn in. Black means = Pixels off.
Since these pixels are not used they won't show any signs of wear.

In other words: There is no need to mess around with the aspect ratio
Quote:
Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
I did not know this. Is this confirmed and tested? Coming from plasma, I always thought black bars can cause burn in. would some pixels off and other on would cause some kind of nonuniform over time?
My previous Panasonic ST30 had burn-in caused by closed caption
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRC72 View Post
I was wondering about this myself, It would make sense that with the pixels not being turned on no burn in would be present
This is the same for both plasma and OLED. It is true that black bars = pixels off and no burn in. It is the rest of the image that can burn in, leaving the black bar area looking different than the rest of the screen. The pixels that are lit are being aged and worn, while those that constantly remain black are not. I believe I remember plasmas offering gray side bars for 4x3 images to mitigate this. I'm not certain that OLED is as susceptible to this as plasma was, as I haven't heard of any issues with this on OLED. (Warning: LG still lists "Black bars shown on the left, right, top, or bottom of the screen, such as with a 4:3 or 21:9 ratio" under "Examples of Images that may Cause Image Retention" in the Owner's Manual.) I won't allow it to keep me from enjoying TV and movies in their correct aspect ratio, but I will avoid continuously operating my C9 OLED for an excessive amount of time (6 hours or more) with the same aspect ratio other than full screen. Screen Shift should also help mitigate this to a degree by slightly moving the transition between the image and the black area from time to time.
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post #6413 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
That is great that you noticed a difference, always nice to see those improvements right before your eye's. What did you do with the C7P?

Sold it to a friend who is now an OLED convert.
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post #6414 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 11:52 AM
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I tried using dynamic tone mapping in a few games and just found it too inconsistent in the lighting changes to leave it enabled. It's a nice feature to have though.
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post #6415 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
This is the same for both plasma and OLED. It is true that black bars = pixels off and no burn in. It is the rest of the image that can burn in, leaving the black bar area looking different than the rest of the screen. The pixels that are lit are being aged and worn, while those that constantly remain black are not. I believe I remember plasmas offering gray side bars for 4x3 images to mitigate this. I'm not certain that OLED is as susceptible to this as plasma was, as I haven't heard of any issues with this on OLED. (Warning: LG still lists "Black bars shown on the left, right, top, or bottom of the screen, such as with a 4:3 or 21:9 ratio" under "Examples of Images that may Cause Image Retention" in the Owner's Manual.) I won't allow it to keep me from enjoying TV and movies in their correct aspect ratio, but I will avoid continuously operating my C9 OLED for an excessive amount of time (6 hours or more) with the same aspect ratio other than full screen. Screen Shift should also help mitigate this to a degree by slightly moving the transition between the image and the black area from time to time.


I’ve actually ran into uneven wear on my old Hitachi plasma TV when I was watching content with black bars on the bottom and top. But after a while of watching HD content in full screen, it pretty much went away.



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post #6416 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 01:07 PM
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I've done some more testing with "Super Resolution" and I think I have it figured out now. It appears that Super Resolution is an enhancement of the Sharpness control's edge enhancement. Once Sharpness is set above 10, each increment of Super Resolution increases the already present ringing artifacts. Apparently it just boosts the edge enhancement effect of the Sharpness control.
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post #6417 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 02:43 PM
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Hey guys,

Struggling to decide between C9, A9G and Q950R. C9 probably has my favourite picture quality.

One important requirement I have is 'flush' wall mounting. Having looked at this TV in detail, the thickest part of the TV appears to be larger than either of the other two, which makes me wonder if building some sort of 'niche' into the wall would help, but I fear it may block audio.

Anyone have any experience/success wall mounting this TV?

Cheers

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post #6418 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
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Originally Posted by fenster3000 View Post
As Jrocker23 already said: Black bars do not burn in. Black means = Pixels off.
Since these pixels are not used they won't show any signs of wear.

In other words: There is no need to mess around with the aspect ratio [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]
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Originally Posted by normanfox View Post
I did not know this. Is this confirmed and tested? Coming from plasma, I always thought black bars can cause burn in. would some pixels off and other on would cause some kind of nonuniform over time?
My previous Panasonic ST30 had burn-in caused by closed caption
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRC72 View Post
I was wondering about this myself, It would make sense that with the pixels not being turned on no burn in would be present
This is the same for both plasma and OLED. It is true that black bars = pixels off and no burn in. It is the rest of the image that can burn in, leaving the black bar area looking different than the rest of the screen. The pixels that are lit are being aged and worn, while those that constantly remain black are not. I believe I remember plasmas offering gray side bars for 4x3 images to mitigate this. I'm not certain that OLED is as susceptible to this as plasma was, as I haven't heard of any issues with this on OLED. (Warning: LG still lists "Black bars shown on the left, right, top, or bottom of the screen, such as with a 4:3 or 21:9 ratio" under "Examples of Images that may Cause Image Retention" in the Owner's Manual.) I won't allow it to keep me from enjoying TV and movies in their correct aspect ratio, but I will avoid continuously operating my C9 OLED for an excessive amount of time (6 hours or more) with the same aspect ratio other than full screen. Screen Shift should also help mitigate this to a degree by slightly moving the transition between the image and the black area from time to time.
Maybe it’s old documentation or they’re referring to near-black bars. Some movies seem to have elevated black levels so the black bar pixels aren’t turned off.
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post #6419 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 04:46 PM
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A few things are happening this might be NVIDIA, trying to ruin LG Imagine no gamers save for a hand full of PC Gamers would Buy a LG OLED they key democratic for HDMI 2.1 FreeSync are next gen PlayStation 5 consoles and Xbox Scarlet. And to a lesser extent Nintendo Switch Pro could benefit from GSYNC at 1080p 30fps to 60FPS smoothness.

We can wait and see and test an Xbox One X which supports FreeSync via HDMI now, with an LG C9 after its G-SYNC update and see if that breaks any compatibility.

I just don’t trust NVIDIA. They are predatory and toxic, their G-SYNC scheme ruined the PC monitor market. I feel like they are trying to do the same thing to the TV market now, when HDMI 2.1 and its benefits should be treated as an open standard. They are inserting themselves overtop so if you want a GYSNC TV, you buy a LG, or if you want a FreeSync TV you get a Samsung.
There is no way that LG would make a change that would break VRR compatibility with the Xbox One, and other future consoles just to obtain G-Sync support from Nvidia. The amount of people using an OLED TV with their PC is orders of magnitude less than those using consoles.

How exactly did Nvidia ruin the PC monitor market? If you want to pay the Nvidia tax, you buy a G-Sync monitor. If you don't, then you buy a FreeSync monitor, and an AMD video card, or an nvidia one and use G-Sync "Compatible" now that it is available.
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post #6420 of 11790 Old 09-14-2019, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWilkinson View Post
One important requirement I have is 'flush' wall mounting. Having looked at this TV in detail, the thickest part of the TV appears to be larger than either of the other two, which makes me wonder if building some sort of 'niche' into the wall would help, but I fear it may block audio.
I think that's the wrong fear. It would risk severe overheating if you shove the air vents inside the wall! They are there for a reason :0. Is "flush" wall mounting really a more important requirement than "picture quality"? It's only been possible for a few years.
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_______________
Denon AVR-X4200W, Arcam Alpha 8P; 5.1.4 setup: Mission 702e, M7C1i, 77DS, 731. Rel T5 Sub. Monitor Audio CT165 4 Tops | LG OLED55C8PLA TV | Samsung UBD-K8500 UHD Blu-Ray

HDMI 2.0 4K modes | Dolby & DTS core+outer audio tracks on (UHD) Blu-Rays | Hello to Jason Isaacs
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