2019 C9–E9 Owner's Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 422 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 7284Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #12631 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 10:52 AM
Senior Member
 
liberator72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Sunny (when it's not raining) Devon, U.K.
Posts: 390
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 280 Post(s)
Liked: 464
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duc Vu View Post
So the common consensus here is enabling HGiG will make the tv display contents from 0 nits to ~ 700nits as they are then hardclip everything above while enabling Dynamic Tone Mapping will make the tv display some dark scenes brighter than it is. However, today I was playing Shadow of the Tomb Raider on my c9 and during a supposedly bright daytime scene outside Croft Manor the picture looked dim in HGiG mode. When I enable Dynamic Tone Mapping it becomes a whole lot brighter. Now you may say HGiG is more accurate so that scene is supposed to look dim, but when I try the same scene on my Sony x900f nearby, the scene is bright like on the oled with Dynamic Tone Mapping enabled. So what is accurate here, because I assume that the Sony x900f at default tracks the pq curve till the panel's max brightness and hard clips everything else (much like the HGiG mode on the LG)?

Another thing: Far Cry 5 with its confusing paper white slider. The default is at 300. If I enable HGiG, the test picture looks right (increase past 300 will clip the details in white). If I enable Dynamic Tone Mapping, I need to lower it below 300 to reveal details in white in that test picture. However, in game, the opposite happens. With HGiG, white is clipped, while with Dynamic Tone Mapping, it is not. What a clusterf*ck.
I am sorry if you get notified that I have quoted you twice, but several times this week I have posted from my iPad and the posts seem to disappear

But anyway, I am at my laptop now so I will try again.

We keep going around in circles with the same questions being asked in various different ways but the answer will always be, at this point, the same. HGIG is a new standard that barely any games available right now are developed to. If and when there comes a point in time where all games are developed to the HGIG standard then it will be a set it and forget it option. As things stand now, games with in game HDR calibration options for you to set white and black points should in theory see some benefit from using HGIG. But that isn't guaranteed, it is going to be down to personal preference.

Shadow of the Tomb Raider definitely was not developed to the HGIG standard. But if we use your example comparison to the Sony X900F, hopefully you'll be able to understand a bit more.

Let's assume your C9 has a peak luminance of 700 nits on a 10% window, which is the approximate average for LG WRGB OLED's. According to RTings review of the Sony X900F HERE, the Sony has a peak luminance of 988 nits on a 10% window. That's nearly 300 nits brighter!

Now, if you have set HGIG on the C9 to follow PQ EOTF to peak luminance and hard clip, and if the Sony does actually track PQ EOTF to peak luminance and hard clip then the panels are indeed acting the same way with no tone mapping. But if you then adjust the in game HDR calibration sliders on each panel, the game engine is now actually performing the tone mapping, not the displays. And because the Sony is an overall brighter display, it will of course produce a brighter overall image. There is tone mapping being performed, but it is the tone mapping the developer wants to use, not the different display manufacturers, and thus it is retaining the artistic intent.

Again, SOTTR is not a HGIG game, so it isn't the best example. Call Of Duty 2019 is a HGIG game, so it will definitely apply there.

Not all current games will look better using HGIG, and for now you can either experiment between DTM and HGIG and just use what looks best to you, or if you still feel HGIG looks too dim to you, just set DTM On and don't overthink it.
mrtickleuk and 22Green like this.

LG OLED65C9MLB**Denon AVR-X3500H**Focal Sib Evo Atmos 5.1.2**Sky Q UHD**Xbox One X**Panasonic DP-UB820**ATV 4K**Harmony Elite
i1D3 OEM**i1D3 Retail**i1 Pro2 OEM**LightSpace HTP**CalMAN Home for LG**RPi Pgenerator**Ted's Disk & Media Files**S & M HD & UHD HDR Benchmark Disks**HD Fury Integral 2
liberator72 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12632 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 01:49 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
archiguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 25,948
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6550 Post(s)
Liked: 7285
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaverJ View Post
I'm doing PC gaming on a C9, and my preferred resolution is 1440p/120. It can be really great, but also at times tricky with different games because of framerate caps, lack of exclusive fullscreen mode, and other joys of PC gaming. So just know PC gaming at 4k/60 and 1440/120, especially with g-sync involved, can have it's share of oddities and frustrations.


Anyone know if there's a thread specifically for gaming (console and PC) on a C9? If not, I'll start one up to if there's interest.
Really wish you would, please. Seems like 3/4 of the posts here are directly related to gaming. I'm kind of surprised anyone would get a television like this for playing video games, but then... I'm not a gamer.

Most of us come here for more general information on the C9 as it relates to watching TV. The thread moves so fast, mostly because of all the gaming questions, that if you don't keep up for a couple of days you're 5-10 pages behind. And because I don't want to miss anything important with regard to my new 65" C9, I burn up an hour or two trying to catch up.

A dedicated gaming thread for the C9's would siphon off a lot of those specific questions/issues and make this thread a lot more digestible for the rest of us. Seems like a win-win!
archiguy is offline  
post #12633 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 02:08 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
DaverJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 9,885
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1881 Post(s)
Liked: 4112
Quote:
Originally Posted by archiguy View Post
Really wish you would, please. Seems like 3/4 of the posts here are directly related to gaming. I'm kind of surprised anyone would get a television like this for playing video games, but then... I'm not a gamer.

Most of us come here for more general information on the C9 as it relates to watching TV. The thread moves so fast, mostly because of all the gaming questions, that if you don't keep up for a couple of days you're 5-10 pages behind. And because I don't want to miss anything important with regard to my new 65" C9, I burn up an hour or two trying to catch up.

A dedicated gaming thread for the C9's would siphon off a lot of those specific questions/issues and make this thread a lot more digestible for the rest of us. Seems like a win-win!
Gamers assemble!


Here's a thread dedicated to gaming on LG OLED, particularly the C9. Please subscribe and participate!
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post59241146
DaverJ is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12634 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 02:11 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
Industry Insider
 
Cleveland Plasma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 25,441
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7140 Post(s)
Liked: 7181
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Schiller View Post
As someone who is very close to pulling the trigger on the 65" C9, I had a question.
Has anyone had experience with the Best Buy extended warranty vs Amazon's?

I usually forgo extended warranties but for this TV I'm making an exception.
I know Best Buy warranties are very expensive, might be better off looking at a Mack Warranty.
Cleveland Plasma is online now  
post #12635 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 03:23 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hal250 View Post
To some extent you're taking what you've read a bit out of context. Some settings made prior to calibration can and do differ from the after calibration setting. Note the sentences prior to your call out:

For the most part, we recommend turning special picture “enhancement” modes off. They are usually optimized for low-quality video and bright environments,...


There are a number of variables. "For the most part" and "usually" does not mean **always**.

Also note the sentence afterwards "If you are curious to see what some of these modes do, our recommendation is to wait until the calibration and adjustment is done, then try them systematically, one at a time."

EDIT: By the way, I too have the S/M disk and have been in email contact with Stacey Spears. I'm happy to forward if you PM me. The only things the disk should be used for in the case of C9 SDR calibration is:
  • brightness
  • contrast
  • audio synchronization
  • motion
Quote:
Originally Posted by liberator72 View Post
I am far from being classified as an expert on this forum, but as @hal250 correctly says above, when calibrating it is usually advised to turn any and all processing enhancements off because you want to be making any adjustments without any artificial enhancements interfering with the displayed image, but they can be enabled afterwards as per personal preference.

But this can also vary by the source and/or content you use to actually perform the calibration/adjustments.

For example, when sending patch windows at 24Hz, you would ideally want Real Cinema left set to On.

The screen capture you've posted there is just a generalised recommendation and isn't even complete. Note that it makes no mention of disabling the Logo Dimming function, or even worse, the Pixel Shift function. Try viewing some of the test patterns on that disk with Pixel Shift enabled and you'll think your TV is busted!!

It also makes mention on that same page that you linked that use of a Blue Filter is optional (see first screenshot), but Blue Filters do not work on Wide Colour Gamut displays. For conformation of this, read the official S&M UHD Benchmark disk thread where Stacey Spears himself says this. My guess is that most of that getting started guide has just been copy/pasted from older guides into the new disk guide.

What also needs to be taken into account is that the S&M UHD Benchmark Disk is an evaluation disk. There are some basic calibration patterns on the disk, and some truly terrific evaluation patterns and content, and the Demo Montage is truly astounding, but the disk was created with the full potential of HDR in mind (10,000 nit full Rec.2020 material) which no current consumer display comes anywhere near close to reaching.

Further to that, nowhere on that page does it say to disable Real Cinema and leave it disabled. In fact, at the bottom of the page it clearly says that you can enable all features one by one to see what they do to the image, and that most won't seem to do anything etc, etc, etc, but if there are any that you do not understand it is recommended to leave them off (see second screenshot).

All I, or anyone can tell you is this. Take any Blu Ray disk in a player that has been set up and configured correctly to send the true 24Hz signal the disk was encoded in. Play the disk and toggle between Real Cinema On and Off.

Real Cinema On basically forces the TV to repeat each frame of a 24fps (24Hz) signal 5 times to fit correctly into the native 120Hz panel meaning it retains the correct cadence of the source signal. Real Cinema Off accepts the 24Hz signal but converts it to 60Hz internally which uses 3:2 pulldown and introduces judder. Basically, Real Cinema only affects a 24Hz signal and has no effect on anything else. With that in mind, and now with the understanding of what Real Cinema does, I'd say it is perfectly safe to switch it back on post calibration.

Soap Opera Effect, Stuttering, Motion Blur etc. are all completely different things, and these are all affected by motion interpolation settings (TruMotion). These are set by user preference, but purists usually switch all of these off.
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation! I just turned Real Cinema on.


Ps: it is an absolute pleasure to be part of this community, you are always ready to help!
mrtickleuk, hal250 and liberator72 like this.
majori3333 is offline  
post #12636 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 03:57 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
If you are using the internal tuner or the HDMI inputs - click on Enter/OK on the Magic Remote to bring the info menu (this may not work if using CEC to control an HDMI source)
If you are using smart TV apps (or any other source) you can call that info menu by using the LG TV Plus remote app for Android/iOS.
You can also use an older Magic Remote that has an INFO button or a classic LG TV IR remote that has an INFO button on it.
Another method is to use the button on the Magic Remote that has 3 dots (besides 0) which is labeled AD/SAP. Press that button and then choose from that menu the option INFO.
OK, so, it always shows 2160.

I have multiple sources but in this case:
- Amazon Fire TV 4k
- running Amazon Prime App or YouTube TV app
- old show, either SD or 1080
- passing through my Yamaha RX-A3070, video set to DIRECT (pass through)
- to LG C9 77”

OK, it looks like this Fire TV with 4K Ultra HD may be upscaling.

The only reason I have it is to decode the occasional ATMOS program on Amazon Prime.

Last edited by Onetrack97; 02-13-2020 at 04:17 PM.
Onetrack97 is offline  
post #12637 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 04:18 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
fjames's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,357
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Onetrack97 View Post
OK, so, it always shows 2160.

I have multiple sources but in this case:
- Amazon Fire TV 4k
- running Amazon Prime App or YouTube TV app
- old show, either SD or 1080
- passing through my Yamaha RX-A3070, video set to DIRECT (pass through)
- to LG C9 77”

Unless the Fire TV is upscaling (which I don’t know if it can) then I’m not seeing the real source resolution.

Any ideas?
I can tell you that the 3 dot method with a blu-ray shows correctly on my C9.
Onetrack97 likes this.

Eve: I thought I was through getting involved with men who were trouble. Falling in love on a look. I can't look at you.

Mickey: You have perfection about you. Your eyes have music. Your heart's the best part of your body. And when you move, every man, woman and child is forced to watch.
fjames is offline  
post #12638 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 05:59 PM
Advanced Member
 
mfrey0118's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 702
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 23
OMG!! I forgot how much torture it is to actually read through these threads, LOL!

I bought a 60" Panny ST30 in 2011. Actually started the settings thread, too...haven't bought a TV since...

UNTIL NOW!

Pulled the trigger today on the 65" LG C9. Got a pretty good deal, too, panel, insured in-home delivery, with 2 year in-home service warranty for a really good price. I was all excited...

And then I made the mistake of reading this thread. Why did I do that?

Every post with a problem crushes my hopes and leaves me feeling fiscally irresponsible and certain of defects and picture issues that will drive me crazy.
Every positive post leaves me thinking "my God, maybe there's hope".

You guys remember the 1080p picture slide break in for the Panny plasmas? I did that for a week straight, 24/7, then got the ST30 pro calibrated.
Thing's been running like a champ for almost a decade...hard to believe...still out performs friends' LCD panels. Was definitely worth the torture of not using my new TV for a week for break-in.

But she's getting long in the tooth, lost some black level, and she's only 1080p, so she'll make a great bedroom TV (right now got some crappy no name 42" LCD from like '08 in there).

But man, can anyone help my buyer's remorse? Is coming from a ST30 to this going to be great or a damn nightmare? I'm all about PQ, had all post-processing crap off on the Panny.

I'm not rich, either, I worked my ass off and got tons of overtime just to even think about dropping 2k on a new set. So this isn't like some people who can just go buy another one...also getting this one calibrated by a pro most likely next month.

Some people talk about lack of brightness on the C9, but they said the same about the ST30, and it's in a living room that is open with the kitchen and dining room, but never had an issue with it being too dim. Besides, anytime we all sat down to watch a movie, lights went off and there's no competing light sources.

Being that this is my first foray into 4k goodness, I realized that my beloved Yamaha RX-A750 is 4k pass thru/upscale but does not have Dolby Vision or HDR10+...is it worth it to drop $700 on a new AVR, as well or is basic 4K gonna be enough for my demanding perfection for a while?

So my setup when the TV arrives will be: LG C9, Yamaha RX-A750 AVR, Nvidia Shield TV pro (2017), DirecTV DVR, everything running through the receiver, with ARC to TV.

Should I run the C9 on this YouTube 10 hour color slide video that my calibrator linked me to on a loop 24/7 or for a certain amount of time and then turn off for pixel refresh? Can the TV even run continuously or does it have an auto shutoff that cannot be disabled?

If I get a meter, does the CaLMAN software on the TV have a pattern generator so I can do future calibrations myself without having to buy one?

I'm so conflicted right now...

LG OLED65C9PUA
YAMAHA RX-A750
NVIDIA SHIELD TV PRO (2017)

Last edited by mfrey0118; 02-14-2020 at 06:06 AM.
mfrey0118 is offline  
post #12639 of 12758 Old 02-13-2020, 10:01 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 247
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by liberator72 View Post
But if you then adjust the in game HDR calibration sliders on each panel, the game engine is now actually performing the tone mapping, not the displays. And because the Sony is an overall brighter display, it will of course produce a brighter overall image. There is tone mapping being performed, but it is the tone mapping the developer wants to use, not the different display manufacturers, and thus it is retaining the artistic intent.
Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. And it also means that the tone mapping by the game engine in Shadow of The Tomb Raider is not good. The game probably has max brightness of 4000-10000 nits and instead of following the PQ curve up to near the panel's max brightness (600-700 nits) then roll off from there, it seems to tone map everything and stay below the pq curve the whole time, leading to some scenes appear dimmer than they are supposed to be. I'll enable LG's Dynamic Tone Mapping option then.
liberator72 likes this.
Duc Vu is online now  
post #12640 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 01:58 AM
Advanced Member
 
Masterbrew2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 510
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked: 195
Does anyone understand how the TV deals with stuck pixels? My C6 would get them occasionally, but they'd never last more than a day usually. Just had my first one on the C9, but the TV had fixed it this morning.

I'm kinda intrigued by the process.

LG 55EA970 OLED
LG OLED65C6P
LG OLED77C9
Masterbrew2 is offline  
post #12641 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 05:20 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dfa973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: EU
Posts: 1,467
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 994 Post(s)
Liked: 996
Quote:
Originally Posted by Masterbrew2 View Post
Does anyone understand how the TV deals with stuck pixels? My C6 would get them occasionally, but they'd never last more than a day usually. Just had my first one on the C9, but the TV had fixed it this morning.

I'm kinda intrigued by the process.
If the stuck sub-pixel recovers after a time it means that the transistor that drives that pixel is still not dead but in a transitory dead/alive state (usually it means that that the driving transistor gets no power).
- Stuck sub-pixels are recoverable most of the time - using a few methods:
----- you can try to recover them by quickly flashing a series of solid colors;
----- you also can un-stuck them by quickly switching the TV OFF and then ON;
----- if the quick OFF/ON method does not work (stuck pixel returns) you can try to turn OFF the TV, wait for a possible Compensation Cycle to run (if the Compensation Cycle runs the stuck pixel is still visible, despite the TV being OFF), after you hear the faint relay click (the TV is now completely OFF and the stuck pixel disappears) pull the TVs power cord from the wall, reinsert after a few seconds - the stuck pixel should not return;
----- and of course, running the Pixel Refresh manually can un-stuck sub-pixels;
- If all the sub-pixels are black / turned off (aka dark pixel) - in this state pixels recover very rarely;
- If all the sub-pixels are ON all the time (aka hot pixel) - the transistors probably are dead and recover very rarely;
teiresias, D Bone and 22Green like this.
dfa973 is offline  
post #12642 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 06:45 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New York
Posts: 5,886
Mentioned: 206 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4832 Post(s)
Liked: 5799
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
If the stuck sub-pixel recovers after a time it means that the transistor that drives that pixel is still not dead but in a transitory dead/alive state (usually it means that that the driving transistor gets no power).
- Stuck sub-pixels are recoverable most of the time - using a few methods:
----- you can try to recover them by quickly flashing a series of solid colors;
----- you also can un-stuck them by quickly switching the TV OFF and then ON;
----- if the quick OFF/ON method does not work (stuck pixel returns) you can try to turn OFF the TV, wait for a possible Compensation Cycle to run (if the Compensation Cycle runs the stuck pixel is still visible, despite the TV being OFF), after you hear the faint relay click (the TV is now completely OFF and the stuck pixel disappears) pull the TVs power cord from the wall, reinsert after a few seconds - the stuck pixel should not return;
----- and of course, running the Pixel Refresh manually can un-stuck sub-pixels;
- If all the sub-pixels are black / turned off (aka dark pixel) - in this state pixels recover very rarely;
- If all the sub-pixels are ON all the time (aka hot pixel) - the transistors probably are dead and recover very rarely;
The other method you can try is to massage the pixel with the set on. One of my customers told me about this working for him.
dfa973 likes this.

John
Sony 55A1E, A9F
Marantz 7012, Ohm Walsh Speakers
Klein K10-A, Jeti 1501, Murideo Six-G Gen2
Calman Ultimate, LightSpace Pro, ISF Level III Certified
jrref is online now  
post #12643 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 06:50 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
smurraybhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Down South
Posts: 4,711
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2347 Post(s)
Liked: 3235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Schiller View Post
As someone who is very close to pulling the trigger on the 65" C9, I had a question.
Has anyone had experience with the Best Buy extended warranty vs Amazon's?

I usually forgo extended warranties but for this TV I'm making an exception.

The BB warranty (Geek Squad) covers burn-in, Amazon does not, its pricey but you get good service. I had an warranty issue years ago with a XBR4, Best Buy was easy to work with and replaced the display with one that I would consider a bump up since it was a year newer and "top of the line" at the time. In fairness to other warranty options, LG has been very good over the past year or so with replacing screens due to burn-in in or out of warranty. Hopefully that continues.
Doug Schiller likes this.

There is no perfect display, quit looking for faults and enjoy

LG OLED 77" C9, 65” B7a and 55” C8
Ascend's with RAAL, Outlaw monoblocks, PSA v1800 and a 7.2.4 speaker config, Oppo 203 and other stuff
smurraybhm is offline  
post #12644 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 07:10 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
KC-Technerd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Liberty, MO
Posts: 1,852
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 318 Post(s)
Liked: 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
I'm not saying I have all the answers. However I know that if it's a 60p signal it won't be the same since 3:2 pulldown is constructed in a 60i signal only. That's what 3:2 pulldown is, by definition!

See the diagram on Wiki's page here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-two_pull_down
I have to disagree. Conversion of 24p to 60 REQUIRES 3:2 (or 2:3) regardless of whether the 60 is interlaced or progressive. This is because 60 is not divisible by 24. If each 24p frame is shown for an equal number of 60i fields or 60p frames, it will either speed up the playback (each 24p frame being shown twice in which case 1 second of 24p would equal 8/10 or 4/5 of one second of 60i or p), or slow down the playback (each 24p frame being shown three times in which case 1 second of 24p would equal 12/10 or 1 & 1/5 second of 60i or p). The math remains exactly the same regardless of whether there are 60 full frames, or 60 interlaced fields. When it comes to reconstructing the original 24p, the difference is whether de-interlacing is necessary. That is, when the video is 60p there is no de-interlacing necessary because each single 60p frame contains all of the information from one of the 24p frames. When the video is 60i, each single 60p field only contains every other line (half) of one of the 24p frames, so it is necessary to combine two of the 60i fields to reconstruct the entire original 24p frame.
jwort93 and mrtickleuk like this.

Last edited by KC-Technerd; 02-14-2020 at 07:13 AM.
KC-Technerd is online now  
post #12645 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 12:54 PM
Member
 
ZeggyZon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livermore, Ca.
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 13
This is probably a stupid question but I bought a 77C9 with Disney+ plus advertised as free. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to activate it. There appears to be nothing in the box giving me a key or any information regarding this. I googled this and even searched this thread but the results for this thread is too many. I bought the TV locally through video only, I guess I can talk to the guy that sold me the TV.
ZeggyZon is offline  
post #12646 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 12:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Reflex-Arc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Mountlake Terrace, WA
Posts: 412
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
Liked: 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeggyZon View Post
This is probably a stupid question but I bought a 77C9 with Disney+ plus advertised as free. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to activate it. There appears to be nothing in the box giving me a key or any information regarding this. I googled this and even searched this thread but the results for this thread is too many. I bought the TV locally through video only, I guess I can talk to the guy that sold me the TV.
https://lg-promos.com/us/en/pages/disney/home
Reflex-Arc is offline  
post #12647 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 01:14 PM
Member
 
ZeggyZon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livermore, Ca.
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflex-Arc View Post

Thanks, I just thought it was a simple key you enter somewhere, I guess I'm getting old.
ZeggyZon is offline  
post #12648 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 01:26 PM
Senior Member
 
hal250's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 448
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 332 Post(s)
Liked: 181
Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
I have to disagree. ....... This is because 60 is not divisible by 24. .....
Just meaning to inject a little humor in the thread

60 *is* divisible by 24, albeit not evenly.
smurraybhm and mrtickleuk like this.

Golden Ear Triton Reference (pair), Musical Fidelity M6si, Schiit Yggdrasil-B, Oppo UDP-205, Emotiva ERC-3, LG OLED65C9PUA, Salamander Synergy Triple Unit SL20, Audeze LCD-X
hal250 is online now  
post #12649 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 01:57 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mrtickleuk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Birmingham, UK - you know, the original one!
Posts: 7,908
Mentioned: 195 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5490 Post(s)
Liked: 7950
Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
I have to disagree. Conversion of 24p to 60 REQUIRES 3:2 (or 2:3) regardless of whether the 60 is interlaced or progressive. This is because 60 is not divisible by 24. If each 24p frame is shown for an equal number of 60i fields or 60p frames, it will either speed up the playback (each 24p frame being shown twice in which case 1 second of 24p would equal 8/10 or 4/5 of one second of 60i or p), or slow down the playback (each 24p frame being shown three times in which case 1 second of 24p would equal 12/10 or 1 & 1/5 second of 60i or p). The math remains exactly the same regardless of whether there are 60 full frames, or 60 interlaced fields. When it comes to reconstructing the original 24p, the difference is whether de-interlacing is necessary. That is, when the video is 60p there is no de-interlacing necessary because each single 60p frame contains all of the information from one of the 24p frames. When the video is 60i, each single 60p field only contains every other line (half) of one of the 24p frames, so it is necessary to combine two of the 60i fields to reconstruct the entire original 24p frame.
Yes, I agree with you and disagree with my previous self. You've convinced me
In the past with CRT TVs, there was no option to display the result as 60p, so it wasn't.
Now it could be either the same 60i the CRTs used to do (sent from the STB to the TV like that) or fully constructed into 60p as you describe (sent from the STB to the TV like that). Either way they are both 3:2 pulldown, and AIUI the Real Cinema function is able to detect them as such, and reconstruct the original 24p from either the 60i or 60p signal.

I'm not sure why I was quite so emphatic before, sorry about that! I think in my head, I envisaged someone watching the 60p version (without any Real Cinema fixing) as seeing it more stuttery. Got confused.

_______________
Denon AVR-X4200W, Arcam Alpha 8P; 5.1.4 setup: Mission 702e, M7C1i, 77DS, 731. Rel T5 Sub. Monitor Audio CT165 4 Tops | LG OLED55C8PLA TV | Samsung UBD-K8500 UHD Blu-Ray

HDMI 2.0 4K modes | Dolby & DTS core+outer audio tracks on (UHD) Blu-Rays | Hello to Jason Isaacs
mrtickleuk is offline  
post #12650 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 01:58 PM
Member
 
ZeggyZon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livermore, Ca.
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflex-Arc View Post

I just filled out their forms and I must say this is quite convoluted. I don't know why they just dont give you a simple key. I can't wait for a week to go by and then get denied because of a simple typo or something. I guess they want as much personal information they can get.
ZeggyZon is offline  
post #12651 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 02:03 PM
Member
 
ZeggyZon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livermore, Ca.
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I haven't read much of this thread but I know it contains much information. I was curious if anyone has seen any ads showing up in the WebOS GUI of the c9 series. This is my biggest fear besides dead/stuck pixels or ghosting/burn in. Thanks
ZeggyZon is offline  
post #12652 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 03:12 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked: 4
Guys, i think i maybe found the cause of banding when PC mode is used, it seems that when the PC mode is selected that the panel works in 6-bit precision mode as when i use a app i found to force 6/8/10 bit temporal dithering on nvidia together with Ycbcr, 10 bit temporal mode increases banding, 8-bit is exactly the same, but miraculously 6-bit temporal dithering seems to almost completely get rid of it.

The temporal dithering itself is a bit buggy with sometimes a logout/login needed to get it to stick, also turning the tv off/standby also resets the dithering trick.
mrtickleuk likes this.
Nanekiu is offline  
post #12653 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 06:06 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked: 3
I know the C9s have a better processor than the B9s but I’m wondering if I’d actually notice a difference when home viewing?

Near ready to move forward with the 77” but struggling whether to spend the extra coin for the C9?

Thoughts?
4K Guy is offline  
post #12654 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 06:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Nuzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 325
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeggyZon View Post
I just filled out their forms and I must say this is quite convoluted. I don't know why they just dont give you a simple key. I can't wait for a week to go by and then get denied because of a simple typo or something. I guess they want as much personal information they can get.


I did it. I didn’t think it was too bad. Biggest pain was taking a screen capture of the receipt to upload and making sure it had all the required information on it. Got a confirmation email right away they received my submitted and then another one validating I qualified and confirming and a few days later they sent me an email with a link to activate the free 12 months. All of the emails went to my junk folder though so make sure you check that if you don’t seem to be getting them.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Nuzy is offline  
post #12655 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 08:22 PM
Member
 
ZeggyZon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livermore, Ca.
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I bought a USB3 to gigabit adapter that I read on another forum that works with LG TVs. It was only $15 so I figured why the hell not? I got some interesting results.


This is the adapter I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


LGs WebOS says the network is not connected but plex, youtube and the web browser work fine so far. If you try to use the TVs built in picture/video viewer it will not find any network devices at first but it will after you do a refresh.


EDIT: This is with the adapter connected to the USB1 connector on the back not the side.
EDIT2: I know that typical 4K media will not usually reach 100mbit and streaming will definitely not. I just wanted to see if I could improve plex's loading, fast forwarding, and jumping to different points in movies.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	77c9_fast.com.png
Views:	88
Size:	1.24 MB
ID:	2685038   Click image for larger version

Name:	77c9_speedtest.com.png
Views:	93
Size:	1.22 MB
ID:	2685040  
onesolo, dfa973 and Siran77 like this.

Last edited by ZeggyZon; 02-14-2020 at 08:28 PM.
ZeggyZon is offline  
post #12656 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 08:23 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,776
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1216 Post(s)
Liked: 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Schiller View Post
As someone who is very close to pulling the trigger on the 65" C9, I had a question.
Has anyone had experience with the Best Buy extended warranty vs Amazon's?

I usually forgo extended warranties but for this TV I'm making an exception.
I have had good luck with BB Geek Squad warranties, but BB overall customer service has been in decline for me lately adn once I decided to send the Sony back for a 77C9 I got it form Costco with Squaretrade whcih to me is essentially free. If I decide I want safety net I can spend $400 for an LG 3 year post factory warranty extended warranty for a total of 4 years.

LG 77 C9 (Also LG 65 C7 and Sony XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s
kluken is offline  
post #12657 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 08:25 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,776
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1216 Post(s)
Liked: 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4K Guy View Post
I know the C9s have a better processor than the B9s but I’m wondering if I’d actually notice a difference when home viewing?

Near ready to move forward with the 77” but struggling whether to spend the extra coin for the C9?

Thoughts?
I think the B9s also have a lower peak brightness that the C9s as I was going to upgrade my wife's 55 X900E to a 55B9 until I found the brightness differences. I will wait and see if they put some good deals on C9 as they discontinue them soon.

LG 77 C9 (Also LG 65 C7 and Sony XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s
kluken is offline  
post #12658 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 09:54 PM
Member
 
KENVAL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 52
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Live Zoom Feature

Has this feature gone in the e9?
KENVAL is offline  
post #12659 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 10:54 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeggyZon View Post
I haven't read much of this thread but I know it contains much information. I was curious if anyone has seen any ads showing up in the WebOS GUI of the c9 series. This is my biggest fear besides dead/stuck pixels or ghosting/burn in. Thanks


Well, like with the 2018-models, you can use pi-hole to block ads, if they appear. I have pi-holed my network because of ads on my E8, so I don’t know if my c9 would show ads if it could
Oomphion is online now  
post #12660 of 12758 Old 02-14-2020, 11:53 PM
Senior Member
 
Evan E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 460
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
Liked: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflex-Arc View Post
Oh, hey, thanks! I didn't even know about this promo, but since I bought my LG in December I qualify!
Evan E is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply OLED Technology and Flat Panels General

Tags
allm , dead , directional hdmi , hdmi , lg c9 oled , lg oled c9 , lgoled , oled , oled 55 , pixel dead , pixels , soundbar advice

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off