2019 C9–E9 Owner's Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 488 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14611 of 15558 Old 05-22-2020, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Keabrown79 View Post
I think you guys are the group to ask... I just ordered the Q90T... but internally I'm really wanting the C9... I mostly use it for gaming and streaming services like youtube, netflix, prime and hulu... I don't play the same game all year but I might sync 200 hours into a good rpg like the Witcher or Persona 5. Burn in is what scares me. Yes, I would get the 5 year best buy replacement warranty, and I've read that LG will even do a 1 time panel replacement, though I wonder if that would make my BB warranty void, but it all seems like it would be a massive hassle. I really would value the input for people here that mostly use these sets for gaming and your thoughts as I can still cancel my order for the q90t and go for the c9
Played both of those games before. Great game. Looks amazing on OLED especially for Persona 5. No burn ins after hours and hours of Persona 5.
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post #14612 of 15558 Old 05-22-2020, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LiLAsN View Post
Played both of those games before. Great game. Looks amazing on OLED especially for Persona 5. No burn ins after hours and hours of Persona 5.
i recommend to turn of power sync ,you dont want your console to turn on the tv accidentally and leave it on for hours ....
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post #14613 of 15558 Old 05-22-2020, 07:28 PM
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Im sorry if this has already been gone over, but I have a few questions about oled burn in.
First, will lowering the oled light below 50 prevent burn in or does it just slow it down?
Second, what colors are most likely to burn in the fastest?
Third, the c9 is my first oled and I intend on using it as a pc monitor. Is there anything I should do to prevent burn in?
Ive paid top dollar for this tv and I wont let burn in scare me from enjoying it, just want to be smart about it.
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post #14614 of 15558 Old 05-22-2020, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dastodavid View Post
Im sorry if this has already been gone over, but I have a few questions about oled burn in.
First, will lowering the oled light below 50 prevent burn in or does it just slow it down?
Second, what colors are most likely to burn in the fastest?
Third, the c9 is my first oled and I intend on using it as a pc monitor. Is there anything I should do to prevent burn in?
Ive paid top dollar for this tv and I wont let burn in scare me from enjoying it, just want to be smart about it.

1. Lowering the light will reduce the risk, not eliminate it. "Slowing down" implies inevitability though and so long as you're responsible about varying content then it shouldn't be a concern.
2. Any color CAN (or even the lack of color, since if you watch only 4:3 content you can end up with uneven wear between the center and sides of the screen), but I think Rtings used red for their burn-in testing for a reason. (It seems more vulnerable.)
3. SCREENSAVERS. Also maybe hide the system bar.
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post #14615 of 15558 Old 05-22-2020, 09:12 PM
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Does real cinema add extra processing if it's not 24fps video?
Real Cinema doesn't add processing as such. It's just trying to preserve what was originally there. If the video source is outputting 24p (actually 23.976p) then Real Cinema allows that to be passed through and displayed at 1 frame every 23.976th of a second, just like it should be. If the video source is 60Hz, then Real Cinema attempts to determine if it was sourced from 24fps. If it determines that it was it performs reverse telecine, which is dumping the extra, duplicated data and reconstructing what's left to 1 frame every 23.976th of a second.

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post #14616 of 15558 Old 05-22-2020, 10:14 PM
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Hey all, about to join the C9 family. Got a tracking number and anxiously awaiting delivery. Getting the 77 in case you're wondering.

This is the first time I've owned an OLED and also first time I've bought a TV online. I'm a little nervous about both as if I had an issue before I could just take back to the store.

I figured now would be a good time to do a little research about the tests I need to perform when they deliver the TV. Obviously inspect for physical damage and will plug in to make sure she powers up.

But I've noticed various slides, etc in other posts. Where do I find those? And is there a crash course that says adjust these settings, run these slides/tests and "this" is what a good or bad test looks like?

Thanks for any help and guidance you can offer.





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post #14617 of 15558 Old 05-22-2020, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian_Barros View Post
Also what about trumotion? I hate SOE..... Smooth def adds that. Clear I feel actually looks good. Anyone using these settings

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I use User 3/3. I tried clear for a while, but I noticed SOE and saw some artifacts every once in a while.

User 3/3 is like 'clear light' and eliminates most stutter (not judder) without any visible artifacts on real world content. To me, clear seems like 5/3 on the user setting, but everyone is different when it comes to motion.
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post #14618 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
Real Cinema doesn't add processing as such. It's just trying to preserve what was originally there. If the video source is outputting 24p (actually 23.976p) then Real Cinema allows that to be passed through and displayed at 1 frame every 23.976th of a second, just like it should be. If the video source is 60Hz, then Real Cinema attempts to determine if it was sourced from 24fps. If it determines that it was it performs reverse telecine, which is dumping the extra, duplicated data and reconstructing what's left to 1 frame every 23.976th of a second.
Very well stated.
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post #14619 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
I use User 3/3. I tried clear for a while, but I noticed SOE and saw some artifacts every once in a while.

User 3/3 is like 'clear light' and eliminates most stutter (not judder) without any visible artifacts on real world content. To me, clear seems like 5/3 on the user setting, but everyone is different when it comes to motion.
So very true.

I've noticed that artifacts is a main concern with regard to motion interpolation.

For me, it's simply, the SOE and non 24p cadence plain and simple. That alone sends me running.
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post #14620 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tygeezy View Post
We've has some users here say they have this issue, while i'm friends with two other people on discord with a c9 who claim they have never seen this issue...
I have never seen this on my C9 too, i'm 1000% sure.
Edit: Oops, this was an old post, do you still have this issue?

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post #14621 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
I use User 3/3. I tried clear for a while, but I noticed SOE and saw some artifacts every once in a while.

User 3/3 is like 'clear light' and eliminates most stutter (not judder)[/B] without any visible artifacts on real world content. To me, clear seems like 5/3 on the user setting, but everyone is different when it comes to motion.
MY STINT WITH NO STUTTER:

Regarding less stutter, I have a bit of a long story that I would like to get people to weigh in on here - especially KC-Technerd. He has, hands down, the best and most informative posts about Real Cinema (along with everything else)!

I had the Sony A9G and the LG C9 and the same time and compared the two tvs with my blu-rays.
The Sony is known for it's motion and I found this to be true. But this tv also suffered from the OLED stutter.

But on my LG, I had virtually zero stutter. I would address this issue on their Sony A9G forums and I had them scratching their heads with me for a while until one of them concluded that I must not have 24fps engaged.

Sure enough. When I turned on Real Cinema, the tv finally looked much more like film, but the characteristic stutter was also introduced.
Now why wouldn't I know from watching my movies with Real Cinema off, it not looking like film?
Well I was new to LG and their settings and to be honest, it didn't look all that bad! I just assumed this was how LG did motion. (Keep in mind as you read all of this that I don't use any motion smoothing whatsoever).

If you watch slow pans such as Snow White and the Huntsman toward the beginning where it pans up a pink blossom tree to the castle, at 2:16 time index, with Real Cinema off, there is virtually no stutter. With Real Cinema on, it returns. With it off, the lack of stutter is unmistakable. It's more than a 3:2 pulldown "look". With movie credits, the difference is minimal.

With all of this, I would say two things:

If you hate stutter, turning off Real Cinema will provide this, but you will lose the 24fps film cadence and look. (But I noticed that this tv has a non-24 look that is much less pronounced in a bad way than with other sets. (It is not because 24fps is going into 120Hz 5 times evenly, with Real Cinema turned off either. Read KC-Technerd's post #14422 where he states, "Strangely, our LG OLEDs will only pass through and display 23.976 if "Real Cinema" is turned "ON." If it is turned "OFF" it will alter the video to conform with 59.94."

Has anyone else noticed this change in stutter with Real Cinema off? It was so pronounced I actually had to "morn" having stutter reintroduced. But I would rather not have a "video" 60ps and or 3:2 pull down look. But for some, this might be a workaround. It's not 100% stutter free, but the difference is very pronounced.

But in the end, I guess I shouldn't be too surprised by this.
I would assume that this (mostly) stutter free but not judder free smoothness the simple result of more frames with RC off - 60 with 3:2 pulldown vs RC on - 24 fps.

KC-Technerd's has another post #14453 where he stated to someone else, "With Real Cinema turned OFF, the changing length of time that frames are displayed (alternating between 1/20th and 1/30th second) ADDS judder on top of stutter. Stutter is the result of low but consistent frame rate, and will be evident during fast motion or panning on 24fps material unless frame interpolation is used. Judder is the result of an inconsistent frame rate. Apparently you are accustomed to the judder and miss it when it's gone."

I've been aware for a long time that 3:2 pulldown adds judder due to the uneven cadence associated with the uneven math. I've seen this for years. But this time, it wasn't a "trade-off" between getting more judder for less stutter. Stutter is really annoying and having most of it disappear was very enjoyable albeit with the caveat of a non 24p film look.

KC-Technerd didn't really comment on the aspect of stutter in that post. But I would assume that if he saw this, he would have mentioned it AND he really knows his stuff.
So I'm left scratching my head. (No one else has posted noticing this either- that I'm aware of).

It would be good to hear from him and others about this. Perhaps others can experiment with slow panning content with Real Cinema on and off. (Just make sure your blu-ray player is set to 24p). You may still see stutter, but there should be a very noticeable reduction - especially with a direct/immediate comparison. (Blu-ray panning scenes with stutter abound).
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post #14622 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 06:52 AM
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Stutter.

(Sorry, but everything else in your very long post is spelled correctly except for the subject of the post, which really makes it stand out.)
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post #14623 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Freddie Alejandro View Post
i recommend to turn of power sync ,you dont want your console to turn on the tv accidentally and leave it on for hours ....
Where is this setting? Drives me nuts that my PS4 turns on when I power up the tv


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post #14624 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 08:25 AM
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For some reason when I used my bluray the video option on the c9 are grey out and tru motion just display on or off, Is that normal?


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post #14625 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 09:55 AM
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I have the official one (LG OLW480B) and it works just fine. It is true the tv looks really fragile, specially in 77", but if you treat it gently there should be no problem. Two people is enough to wall mount it.
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Does anyone have experience with/recommendations for a full motion mount for the 77"? I'm kind of nervous considering how fragile it seems.
The LG mount probably would be best unless you want to pull the TV way out, but then the mount will hold you way off the wall when pushed back.

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Nope. That's an LE650AQD EL A3 which is a C8 panel.

His was/is a LE650AQD EM A1/A3 which is a C9 panel.
Well the C9 is a better panel

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Originally Posted by dastodavid View Post
Im sorry if this has already been gone over, but I have a few questions about oled burn in.
First, will lowering the oled light below 50 prevent burn in or does it just slow it down?
Second, what colors are most likely to burn in the fastest?
Third, the c9 is my first oled and I intend on using it as a pc monitor. Is there anything I should do to prevent burn in?
Ive paid top dollar for this tv and I wont let burn in scare me from enjoying it, just want to be smart about it.
Use your set, burn in is still rare, if it is going to happen its going to happen. Seems like so far it just the 6 series, maybe the 7 series getting burn in after years of use.
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post #14626 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian_Barros View Post
Where is this setting?
(Auto power sync)
on my C8 it's in General / Simplink (HDMI-CEC). Should be similar for you. HTH

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Drives me nuts that my PS4 turns on when I power up the tv
Just prepare yourself that it's a different setting that's causing that, possibly something on the PS4. .

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post #14627 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Evan E View Post
Stutter.

(Sorry, but everything else in your very long post is spelled correctly except for the subject of the post, which really makes it stand out.)
He liked it, but not enough to go and edit his earlier post

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post #14628 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 10:59 AM
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He liked it, but not enough to go and edit his earlier post
Actually I DID edit it. (at least the one he was referring to). So just where did you leave your glasses THIS time?

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post #14629 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 01:12 PM
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I’ve been experiencing more and more days where my panel seems very very dark. Changing the OLED Light settings has very little effect. Why could this be happening? It appears to affect every one of my inputs and turning the TV on and off doesn’t seem to make any difference.

I have 4,327 hours on my TV in case that matters.
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post #14630 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 01:24 PM
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I’ve been experiencing more and more days where my panel seems very very dark. Changing the OLED Light settings has very little effect. Why could this be happening? It appears to affect every one of my inputs and turning the TV on and off doesn’t seem to make any difference.

I have 4,327 hours on my TV in case that matters.
I've heard of panels getting dark when DLPs were out but I haven't heard of OLED TVs getting dark just that they may be dimmer than LCDs with lower nit value?

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post #14631 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TechNerd666 View Post
I’ve been experiencing more and more days where my panel seems very very dark. Changing the OLED Light settings has very little effect. Why could this be happening? It appears to affect every one of my inputs and turning the TV on and off doesn’t seem to make any difference.

I have 4,327 hours on my TV in case that matters.
My panel got noticeably darker after running my first and only manual panel cleaner.

Once I did a reset, the brightness was immediately restored.

HOWEVER:
1. I'm only 1 of 3 people who have ever noticed this.
2. It should not have happened in the first place.
3. No one wants to do a factory reset and lose their settings.
4. If yours is a 'progressive' problem, it can't be what I'm talking about.

But, just in case you are desperate enough.

Good luck on getting your situation resolved ASAP.
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post #14632 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Sargon 1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechNerd666 View Post
I’️ve been experiencing more and more days where my panel seems very very dark. Changing the OLED Light settings has very little effect. Why could this be happening? It appears to affect every one of my inputs and turning the TV on and off doesn’️t seem to make any difference.

I have 4,327 hours on my TV in case that matters.
My panel got noticeably darker after running my first and only manual panel cleaner.

Once I did a reset, the brightness was immediately restored.

HOWEVER:
1. I'm only 1 of 3 people who have ever noticed this.
2. It should not have happened in the first place.
3. No one wants to do a factory reset and lose their settings.
4. If yours is a 'progressive' problem, it can't be what I'm talking about.

But, just in case you are desperate enough.

Good luck on getting your situation resolved ASAP.
My set is not professionally calibrated so I have no problem doing a reset. I’ll try it next time I notice it.
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post #14633 of 15558 Old 05-23-2020, 08:04 PM
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Ugh, so suddenly tonight on my previously flawless C9 (I've had since December) I have this bright stuck pixel (or maybe group of pixels) appear to the right of center of the screen.

I've tried power cycling the set a few times with no success. I'm going to run one of those "stuck pixel patterns" for a while, and then make sure I run the tv long enough for a small intermediate refresh (the one that triggers after four hours of usage) and see what happens.

If that doesn't clear it up, any other suggestions before I force a pixel refresh cycle to see what happens?

If it doesn't clear up after a forced refresh, I guess I'm stuck calling LG support. Which sucks since my TV is calibrated. :-(

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post #14634 of 15558 Old 05-24-2020, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Sargon 1 View Post
KC-Technerd didn't really comment on the aspect of stutter in that post.

Perhaps others can experiment with slow panning content with Real Cinema on and off. (Just make sure your blu-ray player is set to 24p). You may still see stutter, but there should be a very noticeable reduction - especially with a direct/immediate comparison. (Blu-ray panning scenes with stutter abound).
It may be differences in how we perceive things. I've always had a difficult time detecting the difference between real 24fps cadence and the 3:2:3 cadence of 24fps conformed to 60Hz. I really have to study the Spears & Munsil stock ticker pattern to positively identify the difference. I can do it a little easier now since I know what to look for, but I still almost can never positively tell the difference in real video.

I don't have and am not familiar with Snow White and the Huntsman. I picked another program shot on 24fps film, with a pan along a white picket fence against a darker background, and some people moving in the background. The picket fence always has very obvious stutter during the pan, unless excessive motion smoothing is used which results in super SOE. I tried switching back and forth with Real Cinema on and off. The stutter looked like it might be a tiny bit less obvious with Real Cinema off (like 95% vs. 100%), but with the cost of the movement of the people in the background being slightly less smooth. Very minimal difference to my perception.

I think for you and others who perceive considerably less stutter with Real Cinema Off, the irregular cadence of 3:2:3:2 vs. 1:1:1:1 may be breaking up the regularity of the stutter enough that you perceive it differently. That's just a guess on my part, but the only thing I can think of that would explain it.
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post #14635 of 15558 Old 05-24-2020, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
It may be differences in how we perceive things. I've always had a difficult time detecting the difference between real 24fps cadence and the 3:2:3 cadence of 24fps conformed to 60Hz. I really have to study the Spears & Munsil stock ticker pattern to positively identify the difference. I can do it a little easier now since I know what to look for, but I still almost can never positively tell the difference in real video.

I don't have and am not familiar with Snow White and the Huntsman. I picked another program shot on 24fps film, with a pan along a white picket fence against a darker background, and some people moving in the background. The picket fence always has very obvious stutter during the pan, unless excessive motion smoothing is used which results in super SOE. I tried switching back and forth with Real Cinema on and off. The stutter looked like it might be a tiny bit less obvious with Real Cinema off (like 95% vs. 100%), but with the cost of the movement of the people in the background being slightly less smooth. Very minimal difference to my perception.

I think for you and others who perceive considerably less stutter with Real Cinema Off, the irregular cadence of 3:2:3:2 vs. 1:1:1:1 may be breaking up the regularity of the stutter enough that you perceive it differently. That's just a guess on my part, but the only thing I can think of that would explain it.
I really APPRECIATE you taking the time to both read my long post (#14662) as well as look into what I am perceiving with actual content. Your observations and insights about this is most appreciated.

I'm noticing this difference more than you, but it is nice to have someone such as yourself also notice this difference, albeit very small.

I have read so many varying opinions about the merits and function of Real Cinema that have served only to create more confusion than solve anything.

Your various posts to people about this have literally been a WATERSHED and treasure trove of information that I have absolutely relished reading. They have served to both confirm as well as challenge my understanding in the best way possible.

You have a very unique way of setting forth technical information in a friendly, clear and understandable manner that allows people of most all levels to comprehend important issues in a meaningful way.

Thanks again! I look forward to reading more of your posts on this and other topics.

Last edited by Sargon 1; 05-24-2020 at 04:39 AM.
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post #14636 of 15558 Old 05-24-2020, 04:54 AM
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Is anyone having luck using an NTFS formatted USB drive on their sets? I'm having no trouble with FAT32 USB drives, but my C9 doesn't seem to recognize a new one I formatted with NTFS. My understanding is that NTFS formatted drives are supposed to be compatible.

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post #14637 of 15558 Old 05-24-2020, 06:48 AM
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NTFS is working fine on my C9.
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post #14638 of 15558 Old 05-24-2020, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolimits76 View Post
Hey all, about to join the C9 family. Got a tracking number and anxiously awaiting delivery. Getting the 77 in case you're wondering.

This is the first time I've owned an OLED and also first time I've bought a TV online. I'm a little nervous about both as if I had an issue before I could just take back to the store.

I figured now would be a good time to do a little research about the tests I need to perform when they deliver the TV. Obviously inspect for physical damage and will plug in to make sure she powers up.

But I've noticed various slides, etc in other posts. Where do I find those? And is there a crash course that says adjust these settings, run these slides/tests and "this" is what a good or bad test looks like?

Thanks for any help and guidance you can offer



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I'm also a new 77C9 owner. I received my set yesterday and the delivery process went smoothly. They brought the set inside, unboxed it and plugged it in to make sure it was working.

Other than that, I didn't go out of my way to look for any other imperfections. I would suggest just connect your normal viewing devices and see if you notice any issues as part of your normal viewing habits.

I did watch a few settings videos on Youtube though for initial configuration and then tweaked the settings to my liking but that was about it.

Good luck and I hope you'll be happy with your purchase. I know I am
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post #14639 of 15558 Old 05-24-2020, 10:53 AM
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Dumb question about my C9--I have a Denon 2600, and can bring up its setup menu when I'm using cable, Xbox, or Apple TV inputs. However, if I'm in one of the LG apps (Disney+, for example), the menu does not display on TV (although I can tell I'm in the menu via the text on the Denon's front display). Is this because of how eARC/HDMI works? Is there a workaround so I can see the AVR setup menu while in one of the LG apps? If not, no biggie, just curious more than anything else.

Thanks!
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post #14640 of 15558 Old 05-24-2020, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by teiresias View Post
Ugh, so suddenly tonight on my previously flawless C9 (I've had since December) I have this bright stuck pixel (or maybe group of pixels) appear to the right of center of the screen.

I've tried power cycling the set a few times with no success. I'm going to run one of those "stuck pixel patterns" for a while, and then make sure I run the tv long enough for a small intermediate refresh (the one that triggers after four hours of usage) and see what happens.

If that doesn't clear it up, any other suggestions before I force a pixel refresh cycle to see what happens?

If it doesn't clear up after a forced refresh, I guess I'm stuck calling LG support. Which sucks since my TV is calibrated. :-(
Just an update on my bright stuck pixel issue. I figured it likely popped up after the TV ran a compensation cycle (the one after four hours), so between last night and this morning I purposefully put another four hours on the TV so I'd trigger another refresh cycle. I shut the TV off, let it run the cycle, did some yard work, came back and turned everything on and the stuck pixel is gone!

That is good news I suppose, but now I think I'm going to be paranoid it will re-appear every time it does an automatic refresh cycle. At least I didn't have to a full manual pixel refresh to clear it up though. Just have to see if it ever pops up again.
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