2019 C9–E9 Owner's Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 91 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2701 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 12:06 PM
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Thanks for the info that e-ARC Atmos isn't a problem like previous posts made it seem. Guess I'm back to looking for a good dealer.
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post #2702 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EC1602 View Post
Samsung 2018 Q9FN (released a year ago) supports both Freesync and VRR. It's a nice feature to have but nothing game changing, IMO.
Yes of course, but no OLED 4k 120Hz no party 😁

Last edited by magic_carpet; 05-30-2019 at 01:46 PM.
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post #2703 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Maleni View Post
Hello, I am ready to buy the c9 as I coming from an old plasma tv.
My old tv still shows great and I was always careful with it, but recently I discovered it does have a burned in logo, from cartoon network (kids) CN, I was surprise and I still can't believe it


So my question is, does burn in also happen because of age?
First off sure OLED's can burn in and you will read about cases here on the forum, you have to realize it is still rare. The most active threads on this forum for the past few years have been OLED threads. You go over to the master burn in thread and that covers all the years of OLED. That is not a lot of cases when you consider how active these threads have been. From what I have seen most people get burn in after a few years but I have seen it sooner as well on here.
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post #2704 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojoe44 View Post
I have my Xbox One X connected directly to my 77, and I am getting Atmos passed down to my x4550h over eARC. No issues at all.

I think someone on this thread said they were getting some audio lag on the Xbox using Atmos. I did have that issue at first, but I had not turned on eARC on the C9. Once I turned that on, all lag is gone.
Yes the Atmos passthrough certainly works (PC/Xbox direct to 77C9 to Denon 6500H) but the audio delay was deplorable. I have found it to be acceptable (but still apparent) on PC since the last firmware update, but I thought maybe that was just the games I was playing - I forgot to mention that on the forum.

I have not tried Xbox Atmos on the new firmware though, so maybe it has improved, or maybe you have the golden goose of settings to make it not cause latency. I'll have to check it out.

But also to note, until the Xbox fully supports upsampling all games to Dolby Atmos (Which is currently available I believe only on their beta patch releases), it will not use the height or surrounds unless the game was mastered for it. IE a game mastered with 5.1 audio will only play in 5.1 audio if the xbox is set to Atmos - whereas if you PCM the audio at 5.1 or 7.1 then use Neural X to expand to your heights or additional channels, you will get sound from those speakers. Just another reason LG needs to come through with the ability to PCM 5.1 and 7.1 through eARC.

One other thought: Maybe the xbox is upsampling now (I think I'm in their beta program) and that is why there is a delay for the things I was testing. What games have you tried with no delay?

.
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Last edited by Tomcup; 05-30-2019 at 03:03 PM.
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post #2705 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post
Thanks for the info that e-ARC Atmos isn't a problem like previous posts made it seem.
Caveat: I don't read every gaming-related post in this thread, so I may have missed gaming-related eARC and/or Atmos issues.

The known non-gaming-related C9 eARC/ARC Dolby Atmos issues relate to the C9's Netflix and Amazon apps. The C9 Netflix and Amazon apps are currently not sending DD+ Atmos to ARC or eARC attached receivers. There are two known examples: one Denon and one Yamaha. This issue is unresolved.


Patch path:
Netflix/Amazon DD+ Atmos content ---> LG C9 Netflix/Amazon app ---> LG C9 HDMI 2 ARC/eARC ---> AVR ARC/eARC HDMI output



The known non-gaming-related C9 eARC issue is the inability to pass-through lossless audio from C9 connected BD players to eARC attached receivers. There are two known instances of this, one Denon and one Yamaha. The Yamaha was resolved via a Yamaha firmware update. The Denon is unresolved.

Patch path:
BD player ---> LG C9 HDMI 2 ARC/eARC ---> AVR ARC/eARC HDMI output
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post #2706 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by avernar View Post
BT.2020 is defined in ITU-R BT.2020 but is referenced by the HDMI 2.0+ spec. The colour depths are defined in CTA-861 but the pixel encodings are in HDMI 1.4+. Which document the various pieces are defined is irrelevant. The point is the HDMI spec says they can be used.
The point is those are not new in 2.1
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post #2707 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by EC1602 View Post
The point is those are not new in 2.1
True, but you forgot the 2.1 in your original statement: "But BT.2020 color space and 10, 12 and 16-bit color depth are not defined by HDMI."

The main 2.1 feature that I'm waiting to see in action on the C9 is display of a resolution + colour depth + refresh rate that's greater than 18Gbps.
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post #2708 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ozymandis View Post

I couldn't disagree with this statement more. For PC gaming, VRR is a game-changer. It can be tough to hit 4K and steady 60 fps in modern games. Drop below 60 on a fixed-refresh display and you get tearing. Expanding the fps range even to, say, 48-60, means that you can have a brief drop in framerate and still have a tear-free experience. If the LG 2019 OLEDs had a 40-120Hz range, or ~20-120Hz with LFC, that would be better still. You'll still have some input latency if the framerate is too variable but at least you won't have tearing.


VRR also reduces input lag.
Tell me about it.
I've been using U2716 and AW3411 G-Sync monitors for several years on PC.
And currently also have Q9FN and C9. 4 displays supporting adaptive refresh rate tech.

On PC, I think it's quite useful. But I always get the impression that people are exaggerating the benefit of it too much. For me, VRR/Freesync/G-sync is something I can live without.
On Xbox One X, I think it's useless most of the time.
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post #2709 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avernar View Post
True, but you forgot the 2.1 in your original statement: "But BT.2020 color space and 10, 12 and 16-bit color depth are not defined by HDMI."

The main 2.1 feature that I'm waiting to see in action on the C9 is display of a resolution + colour depth + refresh rate that's greater than 18Gbps.
Well, if you read the context, jmpage2's post I quoted and replied was implying those were new in 2.1
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post #2710 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
First off sure OLED's can burn in and you will read about cases here on the forum, you have to realize it is still rare. The most active threads on this forum for the past few years have been OLED threads. You go over to the master burn in thread and that covers all the years of OLED. That is not a lot of cases when you consider how active these threads have been. From what I have seen most people get burn in after a few years but I have seen it sooner as well on here.
The more interesting part is that, if you post that you have burn in most threads will take off for 33 pages asking when, how, where, what circumstances and ask you to post screenshots of 2%, 3%, 5%, 85%, 95% and 100% windows so they can scrutinize a low def picture taken on a phone, down-rez'd for upload and then posted at two and a half inches wide. HOWEVER, if you're a dealer who has sold thousands of TVs and are speaking from first hand account and you make a statement that burn-in is rare...it will go completely unnoticed by the grassfire community at large (except me!). LCD camp has put nails in so many coffins with the "burn in" scare...but what do I know...I'm still rocking an 8 y.o. Panny plasma that is working great.
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post #2711 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
Good dynamic tone-mapping should restore the PQ EOTF, not brighten beyond that.
LG has basically implemented the HDR version of S-Curved gamma.
People may like it, but I think rational heads are prevailing and this is now understood to be inaccurate, and therefore, to be avoided.


LG uses separate tone-curves based on the unreliable static metadata.
For my C7, I use an HDFury Vertex to override the static metadata to get a consistent tone-mapping.


One reason that I bought a C9 over the C8 was to use Calman adjust tone-mapping to track the PQ EOTF to at least 600 nits regardless of the disk authoring.
Two identical scenes should be displayed at different average picture level based on the static metadata. There may be only 1 second of bright content or even no significant APL difference in the source material.
The titles could be simply produced using a higher nit master display.


Dynamic tone-mapping can display more detail in the bright-flashing scenes in Batman V Superman but they loose the visual impact of the flash.


Hopefully, the LG 10 series will include the ability adjust the tone-mapping in the user menu.


- Rich
To expand on this, I’m wondering...what do you think is the best way to go about using the C9 paired up with a player like the Panasonic UB820, which has it’s own tone-mapping algorithm (HDR optimizer)? In Vincent Teoh’s video where he showcases the Panasonic HDR optimizer in use on a C8, my takeaway from that setup was that the optimal settings would be having optimizer turned on and LG tone-mapping turned off. However, with the C9 possibly having better tone-mapping than it’s predecessor, I wonder which is best or if there is even a reason to have both turned on at once?

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post #2712 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelstring41 View Post
To expand on this, I’m wondering...what do you think is the best way to go about using the C9 paired up with a player like the Panasonic UB820, which has it’s own tone-mapping algorithm (HDR optimizer)? In Vincent’s Teoh’s video where he showcases the Panasonic HDR optimizer in use on a C8, my takeaway from that setup was that the optimal settings would be having the Panasonic HDR optimizer turned on and LG tone-mapping turned off. However, with the C9 possibly having better tone-mapping than it’s predecessor, I wonder which is best or if there is even a reason to have both turned on at once?
I don't have my C9 yet nor do I own the Panasonic. From what I have read, the Panasonic is static metadata override with static tone mapping.
If that's what your after, Calman should allow the panel to implement a tone-mapping curve to your liking for all sources.


-Rich

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post #2713 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post
The more interesting part is that, if you post that you have burn in most threads will take off for 33 pages asking when, how, where, what circumstances and ask you to post screenshots of 2%, 3%, 5%, 85%, 95% and 100% windows so they can scrutinize a low def picture taken on a phone, down-rez'd for upload and then posted at two and a half inches wide. HOWEVER, if you're a dealer who has sold thousands of TVs and are speaking from first hand account and you make a statement that burn-in is rare...it will go completely unnoticed by the grassfire community at large (except me!). LCD camp has put nails in so many coffins with the "burn in" scare...but what do I know...I'm still rocking an 8 y.o. Panny plasma that is working great.
Now there is no question burn in happens more on OLED then Plasma. Ya know what though, these are the best technologies. I will take my chances
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post #2714 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 06:01 PM
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2019 C9–E9 Owner's Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
Good dynamic tone-mapping should restore the PQ EOTF, not brighten beyond that.
LG has basically implemented the HDR version of S-Curved gamma.
People may like it, but I think rational heads are prevailing and this is now understood to be inaccurate, and therefore, to be avoided.


LG uses separate tone-curves based on the unreliable static metadata.
For my C7, I use an HDFury Vertex to override the static metadata to get a consistent tone-mapping.


One reason that I bought a C9 over the C8 was to use Calman adjust tone-mapping to track the PQ EOTF to at least 600 nits regardless of the disk authoring.
Two identical scenes should be displayed at different average picture level based on the static metadata. There may be only 1 second of bright content or even no significant APL difference in the source material.
The titles could be simply produced using a higher nit master display.


Dynamic tone-mapping can display more detail in the bright-flashing scenes in Batman V Superman but they loose the visual impact of the flash.


Hopefully, the LG 10 series will include the ability adjust the tone-mapping in the user menu.


- Rich
I think you're missing the point of LG's approach with DTM.
You can already adjust custom tone mapping curve on 9 series with calibration.
DTM is the fast food out of the box utility which can be very useful (and it does a great job, IMO) for people viewing HDR10 without access to manual/pro calibration.

That being said, it's not one size fits all approach.
For 1,000 nit mastered movies, DTM has little to offer and may even provide a negative result.
For 4,000 nits and 10,000 nits mastered movies and games, picture may look too dim without DTM as a lot of screen will have high nit values which can't be displayed by the OLED, so the TV internally will start mapping down all the picture. DTM then helps stop that process and map tones dynamically to 800 nits (or thereabout) max.

EDIT1: Games are usually mastered in 4,000 nits or 10,000 nits and I don't necessarily need maximum fidelity on games, I always leave DTM on in game mode on my C9. It works so well with PS4 Pro and Xbox one X, they look spectacular. For me, DTM is a lot more useful and important than VRR.

EDIT2: If anything, I wish LG implements the DTM feature so that even if it's turned on:
- For sub-1,000 nits and 1,000 nits HDR10 input = DTM disengages automatically.
- For 4,000 nits and 10,000 nits HDR10 input = DTM kicks in automatically.

If it's off in the menu, it's off all the time.
More of a QOL improvement.
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Last edited by EC1602; 05-30-2019 at 06:22 PM.
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post #2715 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EC1602 View Post
I think you're missing the point of LG's approach with DTM.
You can already adjust custom tone mapping curve on 9 series with calibration.
DTM is the fast food out of the box utility which can be very useful (and it does a great job, IMO) for people viewing HDR10 without access to manual/pro calibration.

That being said, it's not one size fits all approach.
For 1,000 nit mastered movies, DTM has little to offer and may even provide a negative result.
For 4,000 nits and 10,000 nits mastered movies and games, picture may look too dim without DTM as a lot of screen will have high nit values which can't be displayed by the OLED, so the TV internally will start mapping down all the picture. DTM then helps stop that process and map tones dynamically to 800 nits (or thereabout) max.

EDIT: Games are usually mastered in 4,000 nits or 10,000 nits and I don't necessarily need maximum fidelity on games, I always leave DTM on in game mode on my C9. It works so well with PS4 Pro and Xbox one X, they look spectacular. For me, DTM is a lot more useful and important than VRR.
The problem with the LG approach is that DTM should not rely at all on static metadata. In the C7, DTM brightened scenes that were darkened when there were no spectral highlights. In the presence of spectral highlights, it falls back to the metadata based curve. In any case, DTM that brightens the APL above the PQ EOTF is just another glitzy picture mode.

I will be adjusting all curves to be the same (1000, 4000, 10000) because static metadata is unreliable and I am interested in preserving the APL which is truer to the intent (IMO).

Dolby Vision is excellent on LG, largely because DV controls the content and the panel curve so there are no "enhancements" added by the display.

- Rich

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post #2716 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 06:29 PM
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Just unboxed my new c9 and need help with attaching the pedestal. Is ok to lay the tv flat on the screen? This is done in a YouTube video and wanted to double check to see if this is ok?


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post #2717 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Raiders4life12 View Post
Just unboxed my new c9 and need help with attaching the pedestal. Is ok to lay the tv flat on the screen? This is done in a YouTube video and wanted to double check to see if this is ok?


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In the top of the box is the instructions. It shows you to put panel face down on box after putting the styrofoam back into the box to give it support.
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post #2718 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raiders4life12 View Post
Just unboxed my new c9 and need help with attaching the pedestal. Is ok to lay the tv flat on the screen? This is done in a YouTube video and wanted to double check to see if this is ok?


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Alternatively, you can use the method Vincent used in his unboxing video.


I just got mine today too. Jrref did an awesome job on it!
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post #2719 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 07:00 PM
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Is it normal for it to be a little wobbly?


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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
The problem with the LG approach is that DTM should not rely at all on static metadata. In the C7, DTM brightened scenes that were darkened when there were no spectral highlights. In the presence of spectral highlights, it falls back to the metadata based curve. In any case, DTM that brightens the APL above the PQ EOTF is just another glitzy picture mode.

I will be adjusting all curves to be the same (1000, 4000, 10000) because static metadata is unreliable and I am interested in preserving the APL which is truer to the intent (IMO).

Dolby Vision is excellent on LG, largely because DV controls the content and the panel curve so there are no "enhancements" added by the display.

- Rich
7 series owners really got boned when it comes to HDR. Overly dim without DTM, no DTM in game mode, and Dolby Vision is still borked with most HDMI sources so you’re basically forced to use internal apps. Even without the custom curves, the brighter default 4000 nit curve is enough to tempt me to get a c9...
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post #2721 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 07:23 PM
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Gents, I'm trying to search and Google the answer. I'm having no luck.

My 55C9 came in yesterday, and I've had NO luck getting the TV Apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to send audio back to my Denon AVRX4300H.

I'll explain how I have everything hooked up and I ask that you guys tell me if this is common, or if I need to switch something.


I have my PS4 and cable box (Spectrum) connected to my Denon. From there I have a single HDMI cable going to the TV's INPUT 2 (Labeled ARC).

On the TV, should I assign the INPUT 2 as the Cable box or the AVR box? I think I've done both and I think it's set to the Cable Box right now. Regardless, neither way sent Netflix Audio back to the Denon. it just keeps sending the Cable box audio to the Denon, regardless if the Netflix App is open.

I also went to the Denon settings and turned on ARC.

What else am I'm missing?

I truly apologize if this is common and already answered. I couldn't find anything.

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post #2722 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by C.W.Cain View Post
Gents, I'm trying to search and Google the answer. I'm having no luck.

My 55C9 came in yesterday, and I've had NO luck getting the TV Apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to send audio back to my Denon AVRX4300H.

I'll explain how I have everything hooked up and I ask that you guys tell me if this is common, if I need to switch something, or what I need to do.

I have my PS4 and cable box (Spectrum) connected to my Denon. From there I have a single HDMI cable going to the TV's INPUT 2 (Labeled ARC).

On the TV, should I assign the INPUT 2 as the Cable box or the AVR box? I think I've done both and I think it's set to the Cable Box right now. Regardless, neither way sent Netflix Audio back to the Denon. it just keeps sending the Cable box audio to the Denon, regardless if the Netflix App is open.

I also went to the Denon settings and turned on ARC.

What else am I'm missing?

I truly apologize if this is common and already answered. I couldn't find anything.
Settings for connecting the Denon X3400H and LG C9 TV

First, you will need to use High Speed HDMI cables; one cable for each device. If you use "active" cables, be sure to have the "TV" or "Display" end connected to the TV. Connect the cable from your TV to the X3400H, to the C9's HDMI2 port. That is for eARC. Connect the other end to the Denon's HDMI port: AUX2. You will select TV Audio on your remote, but use AUX2 as your port.
Second, connect one of the other cables into the C9's HDMI1 port, and the third cable into the HDMI3 port. All three ports are in a line.
Third, connect the other end of the HDMI3 cable to the PS4,
Fourth, connect the other end of the HDMI1 cable to your Spectrum box.

On your X3400H, go to Settings and set the following:
Video
Picture Adjust
Picture Mode Off
HDMI Setup Auto(Dual)
Pass Through Source AUX2
RC Source Select Source Select Only
HDMI Control On
(eARC is automatically "On" when HDMI Control is "ON")
TV Audio Switching On
Power Off Control Off
Power Savings Off
Smart Menu On
Output Settings
HDMIVideo Output Auto(Dual)
Video Mode Movie
Video Conversion On
i/p Scaler Off
4K Signal Format Enhanced
Inputs
Input Assign AUX2 2
Source Level 0db
***********************************************
On your C9, go to:
1. All Settings -> Connection -> HDMI Device Settings -> Auto Device Detection "ON"
2. All Settings -> Connection -> HDMI Device Settings -> Simplelink (HDMI-CEC) "ON"
3. All Settings -> Connection -> HDMI Device Settings -> Auto Power Sync "ON"
4. All Settings -> Connection -> Device Connector -- follow the prompts. Run the Home Theater (Denon) first.
4a. If the C9 returns that your Denon is a sound bar, go back to step 1. (Auto Device Detection) and turn it "OFF". When you reach Step 4, Click the "Reset Device" button under the LG's Device Connector to clear its memory. Re-run step 4. Re-set Auto Device Detection to "ON".
4b. If the C9 returns that your Denon is an AVR, using eARC from port HDMI2, go to step 5.
4c. If you clicked on “Reset Device”, go again to All Settings -> Connection -> HDMI Device Settings -> and set Auto Device Detection to "ON", then go to step 5.
5. Continue to Connect your Set-Top Box and Game Console by following the prompts.

Give it all a try. Best wishes.

Last edited by mhmercer; 06-03-2019 at 02:00 PM. Reason: Remove incorrect assumption about eARC and Atmos audio
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post #2723 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
The problem with the LG approach is that DTM should not rely at all on static metadata. In the C7, DTM brightened scenes that were darkened when there were no spectral highlights. In the presence of spectral highlights, it falls back to the metadata based curve. In any case, DTM that brightens the APL above the PQ EOTF is just another glitzy picture mode.

I will be adjusting all curves to be the same (1000, 4000, 10000) because static metadata is unreliable and I am interested in preserving the APL which is truer to the intent (IMO).

Dolby Vision is excellent on LG, largely because DV controls the content and the panel curve so there are no "enhancements" added by the display.

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Sounds like you are talking about DTM on C7.
Trying DTM on 9 series may surprise you.
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post #2724 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by EC1602 View Post
Sounds like you are talking about DTM on C7.
Trying DTM on 9 series may surprise you.


Actually I was surprised by gaming with Technicolor Expert and DTM off. Some punchy HDR without DTM over brightening entire scenes. I highly recommend giving it a try.


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Actually I was surprised by gaming with Technicolor Expert and DTM off. Some punchy HDR without DTM over brightening entire scenes. I highly recommend giving it a try.


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What's the difference in input lag like between Game mode and technicolor expert mode?
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post #2726 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 10:27 PM - Thread Starter
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What's the difference in input lag like between Game mode and technicolor expert mode?

It should be the same according to Vincent from HDTV Test. I believe ALLM works with all PQ settings.


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post #2727 of 7383 Old 05-30-2019, 10:41 PM
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Xbox Atmos audio latency fix, breaks Netflix atmos

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhackney View Post
Caveat: I don't read every gaming-related post in this thread, so I may have missed gaming-related eARC and/or Atmos issues.

The known non-gaming-related C9 eARC/ARC Dolby Atmos issues relate to the C9's Netflix and Amazon apps. The C9 Netflix and Amazon apps are currently not sending DD+ Atmos to ARC or eARC attached receivers. There are two known examples: one Denon and one Yamaha. This issue is unresolved.


Patch path:
Netflix/Amazon DD+ Atmos content ---> LG C9 Netflix/Amazon app ---> LG C9 HDMI 2 ARC/eARC ---> AVR ARC/eARC HDMI
TLDR: TV sound out eARC set to Passthrough mode (vs auto) possibly breaks Atmos on certain sources (internal), but also might improve audio latency on others (xbox, pc). Buggy*


Ugh okay, so my 77C9 on firmware 3.60.02 to Denon 6500H had no problems playing/passing through and displaying as an option Atmos in the internal Netflix App, but after going into Sound, then, sound out, and setting Digital sound out to pass through instead of Auto, the Atmos display option on Netflix is gone and it only shows 5.1. F*ck. I can't get it to come back. I'm going to have to try some things to get it back. But the TV still passes through Atmos just fine from my USB demo files and PC and XBox.

Edit: uninstalling Netflix did not fix. Setting audio out to TV speakers brought the Atmos icon back in Netflix, but then when I switched back to eARC (auto mode) it's gone again.
Edit 2: turning off eARC on TV and using regular ARC brings the option back in Netflix and actually passes Atmos through. Makes no sense. have to test if this breaks it for other HDMI sources. Edit 3: it does (ie xbox and PC won't pass atmos over regular arc as expected) but I guess if you only care about internal apps I'd dry that.
Edit 4: (sorry) I spammed things off and on and earc back and forth that Dolby atmos remains up again on the netflix app even in passthrough mode for eARC, but now the audio delay is back on the xbox through atmos. Banging my head on the wall here.



HOWEVER setting eARC (digital sound out) to pass through got rid of the audio latency I experienced in atmos over eARC via Xbox and PC and still allowed atmos to pass through. humm maybe not permanently see prior edit 4. However, I can no longer have my reciever upmix to neural x when doing this; it plays based on the source. I tested back and forth and the audio latency was gone/not a problem in pass through, but the latency in auto is horrible. If I lose the ability to use Netflix built in with Atmos though, that's annoying and I might have to move my newer Amazon 4k stick that supports atmos down here.

Seems like it's a bug with the way the internal apps view your hardware. I've had a similar issue before on my 4k fire TV stick.

Hopefully that all made sense.
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Last edited by Tomcup; 05-31-2019 at 12:37 AM.
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Originally Posted by helvetica bold View Post
It should be the same according to Vincent from HDTV Test. I believe ALLM works with all PQ settings.


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ALLM only puts the TV into Game mode picture mode automatically when sensing a game if it is supported, it does not improve the latency of the other picture modes. I did not watch the video, but if he did not empirically test it, I would not expect it to work that way.

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Originally Posted by helvetica bold View Post
It should be the same according to Vincent from HDTV Test. I believe ALLM works with all PQ settings.


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We've covered this in this very thread.
ALLM =! Game mode.
You need to select and view in Game (picture profile) mode to experience low latency mode the TV offers.
ALLM is nothing but tigger signal to let TV know you are playing games. This is for convenience.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.W.Cain View Post
Gents, I'm trying to search and Google the answer. I'm having no luck.

My 55C9 came in yesterday, and I've had NO luck getting the TV Apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to send audio back to my Denon AVRX4300H.

I'll explain how I have everything hooked up and I ask that you guys tell me if this is common, if I need to switch something, or what I need to do.


I have my PS4 and cable box (Spectrum) connected to my Denon. From there I have a single HDMI cable going to the TV's INPUT 2 (Labeled ARC).

On the TV, should I assign the INPUT 2 as the Cable box or the AVR box? I think I've done both and I think it's set to the Cable Box right now. Regardless, neither way sent Netflix Audio back to the Denon. it just keeps sending the Cable box audio to the Denon, regardless if the Netflix App is open.

I also went to the Denon settings and turned on ARC.

What else am I'm missing?

I truly apologize if this is common and already answered. I couldn't find anything.
Please be aware that there seems to be a bug in the way that eARC (not ARC) works. It may be on the LG side, it maybe on the Denon side, it maybe on both. That is to be resolved. The short answer is that 5.1 audio will pass but 7.1 will not (without using an EDID pullout box).
I wish that this was easy to explain.... it is not.

First, you will need to use High Speed HDMI cables; one cable for each device. If you use "active" cables, be sure to have the "TV" or "Display" end connected to the TV. Connect the cable from your TV to the X3400H, to the C9's HDMI2 port. That is for eARC. Connect the other end to the Denon's HDMI port: AUX2. You will select TV Audio on your remote, but use AUX2 as your port.
Second, connect one of the other cables into the C9's HDMI1 port, and the third cable into the HDMI3 port. All three ports are in a line.
Third, connect the other end of the HDMI3 cable to the PS4,
Fourth, connect the other end of the HDMI1 cable to your Spectrum box.

On your X3400H, go to Settings and set the following:
Video
Picture Adjust
Picture Mode Off
HDMI Setup Auto(Dual)
Pass Through Source AUX2
RC Source Select Source Select Only
HDMI Control On
(eARC is automatic with HDMI Control ON)
TV Audio Switching On
Power Off Control Off
Power Savings Off
Smart Menu On
Output Settings
HDMIVideo Output Auto(Dual)
Video Mode Movie
Video Conversion On
i/p Scaler Off
4K Signal Format Enhanced
Inputs
Input Assign AUX2 2
Source Level 0db
***********************************************
On your C9, go to:
1. All Settings -> Connection -> HDMI Device Settings -> Auto Device Detection "ON"
2. All Settings -> Connection -> HDMI Device Settings -> Simplelink (HDMI-CEC) "ON"
3. All Settings -> Connection -> HDMI Device Settings -> Auto Power Sync "ON"
4. All Settings -> Connection -> Device Connector -- follow the prompts. Run the Home Theater (Denon) first.
4a. If the C9 returns that your Denon is a sound bar, go back to step 1. (Auto Device Detection) and turn it "OFF". Re-reun step 4. Re-set Auto Device Detection to "ON".
4b. If the C9 returns that your Denon is an AVR, using eARC from port HDMI2, go to step 5.
5. Continue to Connect your Set-Top Box and Game Console by following the prompts.

Give it all a try. Best wishes.

Unfortunately, I did everything you mentioned except I just have what I think are regular HDMI cables. Again, I'm not getting any audio from the TV to the Denon. Now that I have the cable box connected to the TV, I'm not getting ANY audio to the Denon.

Is it my cables? I mean, I'd think my regular hdmi cables could at least push regular (not atmos) over ARC.

Am I wrong?

Thanks again for your very detailed write up!

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