2020 LG OLED CX-GX Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-6) - No Price Talk - Page 153 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4561 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 06:04 PM
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In short terms
Currently the C9 is better choice than the CX, right? :v
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post #4562 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 06:30 PM
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I bought the Calman Home for LG software last year for my C8. I just bought the new CX and am wondering if this software will be compatible to calibrate? Anyone have any experience using this software?


Thank you.
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post #4563 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dymblos View Post
In short terms
Currently the C9 is better choice than the CX, right? :v
You've just permanently "endeared" yourself to all the CX owners on here.

(Just messin with you!) It's ALL good.
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post #4564 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Pwondrak32 View Post
I bought the Calman Home for LG software last year for my C8. I just bought the new CX and am wondering if this software will be compatible to calibrate? Anyone have any experience using this software?

I don't know. But are you aware of this thread, CalMAN Home for LG:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...n-home-lg.html
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post #4565 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Pwondrak32 View Post
I bought the Calman Home for LG software last year for my C8. I just bought the new CX and am wondering if this software will be compatible to calibrate? Anyone have any experience using this software?


Thank you.
Calman Home 2020, currently in beta, can calibrate the 2020 LG TVs with Alpha 9 Gen 3 processor using the internal pattern generator and AutoCal. If your current Calman home license is more than a year old, you will have to purchase a new license for $145. You have to then download the 2020 beta, which will accept the same license as 2019, unless it has expired. I calibrated my CX last night in SDR, HDR, and DV modes using the 2020 beta. It was quite easy to follow the workflow, because I had watched the all the steps involved via YouTube videos.

You can still use the old software if you like, but you are limited to manual calibration of white balance, gamma curve, and CMS using the patterns generated by the software outputting to the TV as a secondary display. I have done this for my TCL TV,which lacks AutoCal, and it can get a little tedious, but is very manageable.

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post #4566 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Sargon 1 View Post
You've just permanently "endeared" yourself to all the CX owners on here.

(Just messin with you!) It's ALL good.
I have a B7 and the money for a c9 or cx.. but i don't know which One choose.. every day i read everything i can find about CX and almost is everything problems -_-
Also i have plans to use the tv for PC gaming. Going to Buy a ampere gpu (currently rtx
2080)
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post #4567 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rajendra82 View Post
Calman Home 2020, currently in beta, can calibrate the 2020 LG TVs with Alpha 9 Gen 3 processor using the internal pattern generator and AutoCal. If your current Calman home license is more than a year old, you will have to purchase a new license for $145. You have to then download the 2020 beta, which will accept the same license as 2019, unless it has expired. I calibrated my CX last night in SDR, HDR, and DV modes using the 2020 beta. It was quite easy to follow the workflow, because I had watched the all the steps involved via YouTube videos.

You can still use the old software if you like, but you are limited to manual calibration of white balance, gamma curve, and CMS using the patterns generated by the software outputting to the TV as a secondary display. I have done this for my TCL TV,which lacks AutoCal, and it can get a little tedious, but is very manageable.

I was a little confused when I went to Calman Home. They make it sound like you need a spectrophotometer. Is this the case or am I missing something?
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post #4568 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
Just received my lg oled65cxpua from Best Buy, replacing my 6 year old Samsung UN65F9000 65-Inch. So far no issues with panel but at the moment feel buyers remorse as I sold the Samsung yesterday. Not feeling the "Wow" regards to picture quality. I am running through my Denon 8500 usung eArc HDMI 2.
I never calibrated the Samsung and IMO
The picture looked better. I usually watch Amazon Prime through the Amazon TV.
I'm not an expert in calibration but has anyone have advice what can be adjusted?
You bought one of the best LED's made. I bet if you bought a Samsung 900T, 800T, or 90T you would notice no difference at all, in fact watching 1080P the new models may be a step down in some ways. The black levels on the OLED should be way darker, like a good 200-300%, probably more. I would say watch some more content on your OLED, get a feel for her.

---There is a chance you could be a LED kinda guy though.
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post #4569 of 7316 Old 05-23-2020, 10:47 PM
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Good to know. Thanks man. I’ll either get an A9G or the A9H/J lol.
We'll see. That GX is tempting you...

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post #4570 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Rysa_105 View Post
I have not seen any evidence that 2020's are less prone to burn in. They do have a subpixel structure change but it does not impact PQ, if you have a c9 with a manufacturing date of jan 2020 or beyond, it might well be using the newer panel. The newer panel might be less prone to tinting issues but i dont see any other benefit so far.

I now have a Jan 2020 C9 65 (replacement for a April 2020 CX bad screen). I can try having a look, how to I tell? I have a SLR with various lenses & tripod or a iPhone 11Pro.


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post #4571 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 01:39 AM
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I get it I really do. But having worked in ICT for many years vendors do inherently try to make upgrades etc. as painless as possible. Get there a small minorty that dont care if there software works but in the main upgrades should be performed. For very high tech gear like routers and hardware running mission critical gear more care should be taken but for consumer products it should be a no brainer.

Best anology I can think of is people with back pain they will try something conventional like a chiropractor it doesnt solve the problem or it makes it worse. The worse thing is give up and say Ill live with it. Rather the small pain than big pain if something goes wrong. Lots of ways to make it better just need the will to explore. The fear of moving should not stop you.

Same for consumer software upgrades. Top tier vendors do try their best and LG is a good brand.

Quite - I’m into home automation lot and worked in IT for years. On occasion I’ve bricked devices, in particular when they don’t have direct internet access themselves to obtain correct firmware and you’re having to manually source and load a new image via contorted routes (e.g. onto HDDs, embedded devices etc). Generally these processes as fine, critically following the precise instructions of the manufacturer most notably not killing power in the process or cancelling a process that takes a long time. The only other downside of course is occasionally the latest firmware introduces a bug.


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post #4572 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Laura Gómez López View Post
I've been asking myself the same question since last year when I learned about ABL. Doesn't make sense at all. ALB is in fact meant to protect the panel from burn in, but your scenario serves as a counterargument for its purpose.




I have not watched Unforgiven, so I apologize if the scene is noticeably different that what I am picturing. In dark, mostly-static scenes, the problem is that the TV thinks that the video is paused, and it therefore lowers the brightness substantially to protect itself from burn-in. This dimness is exacerbated/ameliorated by the use of the Logo Luminance Adjustment (since the TV can recognize the static brighter zones in an otherwise very dark image, as logos), or the use of the Vivid setting, which barely features ABL in this year's model (but I know people hate using any of these).

I agree with you about the aggressiveness of ABL, and I realize the following suggestion is far from ideal, but like you also mentioned, these types of scenes are uncommon. Grabbing the controller to show the pointer, or pausing for a second to bring up some kind of time stamp, or changing the volume (anything that will change the image, even for an instant) will bring back the "default" brightness to the image (until it kicks in again). Like I said, less than ideal, but better than not being able to see anything on screen.

LG should give us some control over ABL. But ABL is LG protecting themselves from burn-in, so we'll probably never get that kind of control. :/
Yep what you say is exactly what I believe is happening in that scene and pressing a button on remote will bring the light back but it’s a pain non the less and LG should have fixed this asbl issue long ago.
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post #4573 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
Setup new 65"CX last night. Connected through Denon 8500 using eArc. Was working fine but today only get sound from cable no picture and screen says change input which did not work. I switched to HDMI 1 and now it works.
Why would there be an issue with eArc HDMI 2?
That is currently a bug. When the tv is switching to hdr sometimes the tv is giving this “no input” signal. Especially with game mode. I resolve it by switching to the home menu of my xbox and back to the game.
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post #4574 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 02:29 AM
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That is currently a bug. When the tv is switching to hdr sometimes the tv is giving this “no input” signal. Especially with game mode. I resolve it by switching to the home menu of my xbox and back to the game.
Btw. Do you experience any lag in oudoom using earc? Dd and Atmos? (Especially with a xbox...)
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post #4575 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 04:54 AM
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Decided to compare my 55" GX with my Acer X27 (384 zones, 1000+ nits). Purpose was mainly to compare brightness and "pop" so I put both into the most vibrant mode (again, not to compare best PQ). Source was YouTube videos running at [email protected] with HDR. To my great surprise, the GX was actually able to make the perceived brightness and pop even in a bright sunlit room.And this was not cherry picked clips either to favor OLED (at least not intentionaly), included for instance the Sniper trailer which is almost entirely daytime.

While the merits of OLED regarding black levels etc. are probably well known by now, I did not expect this. There were differences of course, but overall I would say it was a draw, and if you factor in stuff like perfect blacks etc. it was a clear victory for the GX.

Now, I don't claim to be an expert so this is my personal opinions on the matter, nothing more, nothing less. But perhaps interesting to others as well.


(The Acer was running Display Port but both fed from the same GPU, a 1080ti, of course confrimed that both were in fact running HDR).

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post #4576 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
Just received my lg oled65cxpua from Best Buy, replacing my 6 year old Samsung UN65F9000 65-Inch. So far no issues with panel but at the moment feel buyers remorse as I sold the Samsung yesterday. Not feeling the "Wow" regards to picture quality. I am running through my Denon 8500 usung eArc HDMI 2.
I never calibrated the Samsung and IMO
The picture looked better. I usually watch Amazon Prime through the Amazon TV.
I'm not an expert in calibration but has anyone have advice what can be adjusted?
You bought one of the best LED's made. I bet if you bought a Samsung 900T, 800T, or 90T you would notice no difference at all, in fact watching 1080P the new models may be a step down in some ways. The black levels on the OLED should be way darker, like a good 200-300%, probably more. I would say watch some more content on your OLED, get a feel for her.

---There is a chance you could be a LED kinda guy though.
I changed picture mode from FilmMaker ro standard and was very satisfied with results. You are correct, I have to find more 4k content to really appreciate

Thanks
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post #4577 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
I changed picture mode from FilmMaker ro standard and was very satisfied with results. You are correct, I have to find more 4k content to really appreciate

Thanks
Filmmaker mode is pretty dim, and only suitable for a totally blacked out room. That being said standard is not a good choice either, as it does not use an accurate color temperature for the white point. I recommend you stay with iSF expert bright or dark mode and let your eyes adjust to the picture.

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post #4578 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
You bought one of the best LED's made. I bet if you bought a Samsung 900T, 800T, or 90T you would notice no difference at all, in fact watching 1080P the new models may be a step down in some ways. The black levels on the OLED should be way darker, like a good 200-300%, probably more. I would say watch some more content on your OLED, get a feel for her.

---There is a chance you could be a LED kinda guy though.
I'm not sure i agree 100%. I had a Samsung 9000F with the SEK3500. The SDR PQ on that set was one of the best for many years but i really don't think it compares to a properly calibrated OLED unless you are in a very bright room. The Sony and LGs do a really good job upscaling 1080 content. And HDR, looking back HDR was just coming out in 2014 so that set was never designed for it and the PQ really wasn't HDR even though the SEK3500 was processing the format, It was HDR "like". But as you say, technology moves on.

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post #4579 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
I changed picture mode from FilmMaker ro standard and was very satisfied with results. You are correct, I have to find more 4k content to really appreciate

Thanks
HDR material as well
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post #4580 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 07:39 AM
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Hi all - I currently own a Samsung Q90R and thinking of making the jump to the CX. I have a soundbar on my tv unit though and the CX looks fairly low - what is the height from the surface of the unit to the frame of the TV? May need to raise the TV slightly!
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Alright I assumed sharpness 0 was the pure no softness or sharpening setting for these TVs but now I’ve seen some people saying sharpness 10 is actually the correct setting. Does anyone have any insights?
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Hi all - I currently own a Samsung Q90R and thinking of making the jump to the CX. I have a soundbar on my tv unit though and the CX looks fairly low - what is the height from the surface of the unit to the frame of the TV? May need to raise the TV slightly!
Almost exactly 3cm from surface (TV stand) to bottom part of the TV screen. I also have a soundbar, which blocks a small portion of the screen.

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Alright I assumed sharpness 0 was the pure no softness or sharpening setting for these TVs but now I’ve seen some people saying sharpness 10 is actually the correct setting. Does anyone have any insights?
0 would be very soft and blurry for me. Doubt zero is the no softness/sharpening setting.
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post #4583 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 10:13 AM
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Alright I assumed sharpness 0 was the pure no softness or sharpening setting for these TVs but now I’ve seen some people saying sharpness 10 is actually the correct setting. Does anyone have any insights?
0 from what I've read is the correct setting for LG

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post #4584 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 10:17 AM
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0 from what I've read is the correct setting for LG

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Then why do they come with 10 as default in pretty much all picture modes?
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post #4585 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 10:27 AM
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Then why do they come with 10 as default in pretty much all picture modes?
Most TVs come default with all kinds of video processing. Just because it is default, doesn't mean it is accurate. In this case the value of 0 is accurate. 10 is default, but also adds some sharpening to the image.
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post #4586 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 10:44 AM
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Then why do they come with 10 as default in pretty much all picture modes?
That I don't knw but I mean they have certain picture processing on by default as well and we all know those are incorrect lol

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post #4587 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 11:20 AM
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I was a little confused when I went to Calman Home. They make it sound like you need a spectrophotometer. Is this the case or am I missing something?
You only need a spectro, if you want to profile your meter. I didn't, as I don't have one. I just used the FSI EDR file for WOLED mentioned in the Calman Home 2019 threads instead for my i1D3.
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post #4588 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 11:29 AM
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At this point I’ve read in various places some think 0 sharpness is accurate while others think 10 is accurate. At this point I don’t know what to believe
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post #4589 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 11:44 AM
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At this point I’ve read in various places some think 0 sharpness is accurate while others think 10 is accurate. At this point I don’t know what to believe
You don't have to take anyone's word for it. Use a sharpness test pattern and see for yourself. 0 has no sharpening at all. 10 shows visible sharpening. It's that simple. I'm not sure why this is even under discussion.
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post #4590 of 7316 Old 05-24-2020, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Laura Gómez López View Post
0 would be very soft and blurry for me. Doubt zero is the no softness/sharpening setting.
Doubt away, but it is. Easily checked with test patterns. When it comes to "which value does not process the image", the answer is 0. Been covered many times before.

I agree with post just before mine. These are not matters of opinion, these are matters of fact.

You prefer a higher value, so you should use a higher value. That's your choice.

As to the question "then why is 10 the default", that's a totally different matter and nothing to do with this question. Why are horrible modes like Standard and Vivid the defaults? Why is eco turned on by Default? Why is Cool colour the default? These all make the picture far less accurate, but they are there because a load of people like them.

Every few months someone comes along and says "I've read <the wrong thing> but I've also read <the right thing>, I don't know which one is right", and the whole bloody thing starts all over again. All because there were a bunch of people who thought, wrongly without testing, that "10=no sharpening" back in 2017.
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