2020 LG OLED CX-GX Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-6) - No Price Talk - Page 168 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5011 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saiyanzzrage View Post
https://youtu.be/FT5VK5YPTkc

Vincent’s c9 and cx comparison


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My take from this CX better for everyday viewing of cable content once a few teething bugs are fixed. There, I said it.

The CX appears to be doing exactly what LG said. The TV drops support for HDMI bandwidth for modes the it can't display, and uses the extra processing power for picture quality improvements in the modes that it can.
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post #5012 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jrref View Post
Yes, just run it for about 25 hrs then do it. It will not damage the panel or reduce brightness. On the CX i've found it may increase your peak brightness which is different behavior from previous years LGs.
awesome, thanks! I am at about 16 hours, so ill run it soon.

FYI, reason I was asking was because on my second 65CX (returned first because of obvious banding in dark scenes)

The replacement has been fine, and I promised myself I wasnt going to run slides or purposely looking for it and I didnt, and didnt notice anything major.

Then, last night on the HBO Max profile page I see this...FML

Ill try and get a better pic which is focused better tonight.
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post #5013 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sargon 1 View Post
Just saw the C9/CX Vincent video. Very informative. Always look forward to his reviews.

Brightness is a priority for me, second to black levels. (No, not LED brightness at the expense of everything else). But if I have a choice between two OLED quality tvs, one with less aggressive ABL and a brighter tv, THAT would be the tipping factor for me. This was also a consideration when I was auditioning the Sony A9G.

Because of this, I'm very glad I got the C9.

Yes, we cannot go by the youtube video quality. But if the brightness difference that Vincent showed with regard to ABL and overall brightness is ANYTHING like what I see in the video, I definitely prefer the C9 over the CX.

(Vincent describes the differences as "slight". But as an OCD videophile, "slight" differences like this, whether on the bright end or the black level end of the spectrum, are always quite significant for me).

Based on early review/talk, I was expecting other differences between the two tvs to be more significant, but they weren't.

From the video, what stood out to me was:

The CX has the best motion and upscaling. (I wonder how much the SD overscan off feature comes into play here).

The C9 has the best brightness and least black level issues - (floating black levels).

It sounds like they are both great tvs. (Something I already knew).
Just pick your poison based on what is most important to you.
Wonder if the HDR brightness in the CX will be on par with the C9 in the coming June 3.10.xx update that jrref said made HDR look much better?

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post #5014 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saiyanzzrage View Post
Wonder if the HDR brightness in the CX will be on par with the C9 in the coming June 3.10.xx update that jrref said made HDR look much better?
Maybe, but you never know until the update is released....
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post #5015 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Maybe, but you never know until the update is released....
One can dream right

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post #5016 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skschatzman View Post
HDR content is not mastered in a pitch black environment. Keep that in mind.
And in what conditions is it mastered? Surely there must be standards for this.

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post #5017 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorman42 View Post
And in what conditions is it mastered? Surely there must be standards for this.
Why does it matter? HDR is an absolute standard telling what the absolute luminance of each pixel is supposed to be. The mastering environment is irrelevant. The viewing environment is relevant if the ambient lighting causes issues with being able to see what is supposed to be displayed. This is where the AI brightness is supposed to help out. Either you rely on that or drop the room light level down to where the low nit content can be displayed at the native luminance without being crushed, unless your ophthalmologist tells you otherwise, or you have one green and one blue eye like Max Scherzer.
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post #5018 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by y2jez View Post
So my 65GX has arrived. Finally replacing a 12 year old LCD. Other than the above post can anyone point me to any specific information within these threads on things to get me up and running quicker? I've been scrolling for what feels like hours trying to find some useful tips. I find you get a little forumblind scrolling through some of the discussions within this post!
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post59402476

https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/cx-oled/settings

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...rice-talk.html
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post #5019 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:54 AM
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Anything past 100 nits causes me fatigue if the room is too dark. I also cap my PC games to 24 fps because anything past that causes me headaches. I can't play console games because 30 fps is too much for me. Lastly, I have my CX connected through bluetooth to an echo device, so I can get Mono audio coming out of a single speaker. The TV speakers are too loud for me, and the different channels--left and right, and height--cause me hearing-fatigue too. And I keep the echo volume at 10%, sometimes 15% if I really wanna go crazy.

I'd recommend you guys doing the same lest risking some permanent eye, ear, and brain damage.
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post #5020 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rajendra82 View Post
Why does it matter? HDR is an absolute standard telling what the absolute luminance of each pixel is supposed to be. The mastering environment is irrelevant. The viewing environment is relevant if the ambient lighting causes issues with being able to see what is supposed to be displayed. This is where the AI brightness is supposed to help out. Either you rely on that or drop the room light level down to where the low nit content can be displayed at the native luminance without being crushed, unless your ophthalmologist tells you otherwise, or you have one green and one blue eye like Max Scherzer.
It matters to me if I intend to recreate a viewing environment similar to that used for mastering. Is this annoying to you somehow? Why?
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post #5021 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
SDR Settings with whitepoint target of x0.3095 y0.3290:

Picture Mode Settings
FILMMAKER MODE
OLED LIGHT: 27
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint: 0

Advance Controls
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Gamut: Auto
Gamma: 2.2
Peak Brightness: Off

White Balance]
Color Temperature: Warm2

2 Point
Red High: 0
Green High: 0
Blue High: -12
Red Low: 0
Green Low: 0
Blue Low: 0

22 Point:
IRE 2.5
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 1
Green: 3
Blue: 7

IRE 5
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 3
Green: -2
Blue: 4

IRE 7.5
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 9
Green: 3
Blue: 9

IRE 10
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 10
Green: 7
Blue: 9

IRE 15
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 10
Green: 8
Blue: 12

IRE 20
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 7
Green: 4
Blue: 8

IRE 25
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 7
Green: 4
Blue: 7

IRE 30
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 6
Green: 4
Blue: 7
IRE 35
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 4
Green: 3
Blue: 5

IRE 40
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 4
Green: 2
Blue: 6

IRE 45
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 2
Green: -1
Blue: 2

IRE 50
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 4
Green: 2
Blue: 4

IRE 55
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 4
Green: 4
Blue: 3

IRE 60
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: -1
Green: -2
Blue: -4

IRE 65
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 1
Green: 0
Blue: -2

IRE 70
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 4
Green: 4
Blue: 2

IRE 75
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 3
Green: 4
Blue: -1

IRE 80
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: -1
Green: 1
Blue: -4

IRE 85
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: -7
Green: -4
Blue: -11

IRE 90
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: -1
Green: 1
Blue: -2

IRE 95
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: -1
Green: 2
Blue: 0

IRE 100
Adjusting Luminance: 0
Red: 0
Green: 1
Blue: 1


Color Management
Red
Saturation: 0
Tint: 0
Luminance: 0

Green
Saturation: 0
Tint: 0
Luminance: 1

Blue
Saturation: 0
Tint: 0
Luminance: -1

Cyan
Saturation: 0
Tint: 0
Luminance: 0

Magenta
Saturation: 0
Tint: 0
Luminance: 0

Yellow
Saturation: 0
Tint: 1
Luminance: 0


Picture Options
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Smooth Gradation: Off
Black Level: Auto
Real Cinema: Off
Motion Eye Care: Off
TruMotion: Off
Question on the D-Nice calibration settings. I know its bad practice to copy and paste stuff from another TV, but are any of these safe to do generally to any TV? I assume if i use only the 2 point high and color management settings, this would make my tv more "accurate"?

And we shouldnt touch the IRE stuff without a calibrator being at our TV? Or just leave well enough alone unless getting a calibration?

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post #5022 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Dark-007 View Post
Reading material about why 10,000 nits was chosen.

https://www.lightspace.lightillusion.com/uhdtv.html
Thanks for this link. Much appreciated.

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post #5023 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by saiyanzzrage View Post
Question on the D-Nice calibration settings. I know its bad practice to copy and paste stuff from another TV, but are any of these safe to do generally to any TV? I assume if i use only the 2 point high and color management settings, this would make my tv more "accurate"?

And we shouldnt touch the IRE stuff without a calibrator being at our TV? Or just leave well enough alone unless getting a calibration?
Every single setting in my post can be used. That is why I posted them
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post #5024 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Every single setting in my post can be used. That is why I posted them
ah, awesome, thanks so much for clearing that up!

And for HDR, you said to just do the 2 point high (blue -12) and thats it, right?

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post #5025 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by saiyanzzrage View Post
ah, awesome, thanks so much for clearing that up!

And for HDR, you said to just do the 2 point high (blue -12) and thats it, right?
Correct.
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post #5026 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Correct.
Is game mode calibration done any differently? Or these can be used there as well? Sorry, last question, I promise

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post #5027 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by gorman42 View Post
It matters to me if I intend to recreate a viewing environment similar to that used for mastering. Is this annoying to you somehow? Why?
I am sorry if I came across as annoyed. I am really not at all with this awesome TV in my house. I am just voicing my opinion about what I like my room to be when I watch it, and why I think it is the correct choice. I am also trying to hear from those that think otherwise, and why they do.

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post #5028 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 08:05 AM
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Is game mode calibration done any differently? Or these can be used there as well? Sorry, last question, I promise
Did not test it but should be the same.
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post #5029 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 08:22 AM
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D-nice one more question, are you using the awp purely for SDR or also for HDR / DV on C9/CX ?
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post #5030 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 08:53 AM
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That is a pretty sweet setup I think
For giraffes =)
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post #5031 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Correct.
And what is your black high/low/auto set to? We had to set it to low because on high it was jacked up on external devices including ATV and Xbox but something tells me we should be able to set it to auto and change something on those devices to get it to match. Always looked fine in auto with on device apps.

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post #5032 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Kadath View Post
And what is your black high/low/auto set to? We had to set it to low because on high it was jacked up on external devices including ATV and Xbox but something tells me we should be able to set it to auto and change something on those devices to get it to match. Always looked fine in auto with on device apps.
Auto works good. Check your other devices

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post #5033 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rajendra82 View Post
I am sorry if I came across as annoyed. I am really not at all with this awesome TV in my house. I am just voicing my opinion about what I like my room to be when I watch it, and why I think it is the correct choice. I am also trying to hear from those that think otherwise, and why they do.
Ok. In the same spirit I will say this. First off, it's not the "correct choice". It's your personal preference. It might be the best thing for you, but I would try to avoid using the word "correct" when it comes to personal preferences vs scientific standards

HDR content is mastered to be viewed in an environment which has a surround luminance level of 5 nits. That's a fact, not an opinion. Please note, that 5 nits means it's definitely not completely pitch black, no matter what other people around here think. You will probably ask for a reference, and I will provide ONE, leaving it as an exercise for others if you want more. http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/4k-vs-201604104279.htm . You are free to reject this if you wish, it won't affect me at all.

But I myself prefer to watch the content as intended which is why I strive for an ambient lighting which is NOT pitch black. Only yesterday, less than 12 hours ago, this was discussed on AVS (2019 owner's thread I think) so it's getting a bit boring now.

You are always free to view your content it in a different environment if you prefer. Pitch black, direct sunlight, do what you like. Having a discussion about what you prefer is fine, but it is an endless discussion which I refuse to take part in. I have zero interest in what other people's personal viewing preferences are, or how they came to those preferences. They are personal to all of us.

I'm only interested in what the standards are. And for HDR viewing, it's 5 nits. You were wrong to say that the mastering environment is irrelevant, and this post explains why with a reference. HTH
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post #5034 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:09 AM
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Auto works good. Check your other devices

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We did. Extensively. Looking for specific instructions for XBox and Apple TV cause nothing we monkeyed with on them worked
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post #5035 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:15 AM
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I have always read that the HDR surround luminance level of 5 nits is a maximum, not absolute level needed. I therefore have chosen to turn off all lights down, and not get any bias lighting for my OLED, as my environment will then be within the standard. I don't suffer from any eyestrain looking at the 700 nit peak luminance image that my CX is displaying against a dark background.

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post #5036 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rajendra82 View Post
I have always read that the HDR surround luminance level of 5 nits is a maximum, not absolute level needed.
Your turn to provide a reference for that.

Quote:
I therefore have chosen to turn off all lights down, and not get any bias lighting for my OLED, as my environment will then be within the standard.
Nope. Without the 5 nits luminance your environment is not standard. Like I said before, you are free to ignore the standard if you wish.

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post #5037 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:29 AM
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I read the reference (linked in post 5022) wrong. It should be average 5 nits, not maximum. I will have to see how dim that is, and if it is feasible with bias lighting.

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post #5038 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avernar View Post

It's mostly noticeable in small text with certain foreground and background colours. Also certain dithered colours are off.

It won't give any extra modes or options but some options will be disabled.
Thanks for the info, that's helpful.
I will do more tests, also I just found another post that indicates PC Mode only applies to RGB output.

I always use YCC when outputting from a PC to a TV so maybe that's why i am seeing no difference when changing the icon?

I will test that thesis over the weekend.

A projector, some seats, a screen, oh a receiver and some speakers i guess, and a few consoles, an AT-AT, and a Millenium Falcon i need to unbox and have a display table made...
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post #5039 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by scyto View Post
Thanks for the info, that's helpful.
I will do more tests, also I just found another post that indicates PC Mode only applies to RGB output.

I always use YCC when outputting from a PC to a TV so maybe that's why i am seeing no difference when changing the icon?

I will test that thesis over the weekend.
It's for displaying RGB and 4:4:4 output correctly. Grab the 4K test pattern here: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic...ts-chroma-444/ It needs to be displayed 1:1 so make sure Just Scan option in the CX is set to On.
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post #5040 of 6899 Old 05-29-2020, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by avernar View Post
I really wish people would stop saying "rename the input to PC". The name does absolutely nothing.

Change the icon for the input to PC. That turns on PC mode. It will automatically rename it to PC as well but you can change that without turning off PC mode. Only the icon matters.
If I'm not mistaken, you have a C9 correct? Is it necessary to enable PC Mode to get 4:4:4 still, and if so, what's the downside (ie increase to input lag, etc)?

And for any that have a CX, or one of the pro calibrators, can you clear up what Vincent is talking about when he says at the beginning of the vid that you no longer need to enable PC Mode for 4:4:4, but then at the end of the video seems to contradict this and imply that you do?

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