Official Elusive 1099 Speaker Thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 307 Old 03-16-2015, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Official Elusive 1099 Speaker Thread

General information and instructions for the Elusive 1099 assembly.


Build Tips (more will be added):

1: You should predrill the mdf for screw holes before installing the woofers, mids, and waveguide. Sit the woofer in the cutout and mark the holes with a pen, pencil, etc. Remove the part and drill your holes. I use a 7/64" bit, but a 1/8" bit does fine.

2: You get three pieces of gasket tape with your kit. The 2 small ones are for the midranges, the larger one is for the waveguide. I always put the gasket directly on the back of the waveguide and midrange flanges, some people like to put the gasket on the mdf instead. Just peel a small section of the white paper away from the gasket tape to expose the sticky part. Then slowly push it around the perimeter of the waveguide flange and just work your way around the part.

3. The easiest place to install your crossover is in the midrange compartment.


4. The ports just get lightly tapped into place until they are snug up against the front panel. Some people put caulking behind them but it's not necessary.

5. When putting the screws in your woofers use a piece of wood, or your hand to protect the woofer in case your screw driver slips. You'll feel much better with a scratch on your hand than a hole in your woofer.

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post #2 of 307 Old 03-16-2015, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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-Crossover Information-



A few notes:

There is an optional 10ohm resistor that can be added if you want to lower the high end a couple decibels.

Notice that you want to to reverse the polarity on the midrange.




The following link has uploaded crossover board layouts that were done by AVS forum member MrEscu if you wanted to run all your wires under the crossover board. It looks complex from the drawings, but once you start laying out parts, it's not too bad.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/68mpqjs1m...AGqR7EXxa?dl=0
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post #4 of 307 Old 03-16-2015, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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post #5 of 307 Old 04-15-2015, 09:50 AM
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Hey Erich, do you know when you might get the kits in stock?
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post #6 of 307 Old 04-15-2015, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm working on the previous preorders now and getting them all packaged up. I will have them done by midweek next week and then more will go back up. As long as all the inductors come in they should stay in stock much longer this time.

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post #7 of 307 Old 10-11-2015, 06:34 AM
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im wondering if a selector switch could be installed to switch between the two resistor options so you could easily go back and forth

maybe this switch [http://www.parts-express.com/spdt-mi...witch--060-335

and use this blank cup to install it onto the back of the speaker http://www.parts-express.com/penn-el...4-3-8--262-026

Would this work or would it mess up the crossover somehow? Is that even the right toggle to use?
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post #8 of 307 Old 10-11-2015, 07:05 AM
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That is certainly doable. I do prefer the look of this switch: http://www.parts-express.com/parts-e...black--060-776

But it's what ever look you prefer. Any open/close switch should work. Even a light switch. Just put it in line with the 10ohm switch. Open means no mod. Closed means mod engaged. I can draw a little diagram if you'd like.
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post #9 of 307 Old 10-11-2015, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
That is certainly doable. I do prefer the look of this switch: http://www.parts-express.com/parts-e...black--060-776

But it's what ever look you prefer. Any open/close switch should work. Even a light switch. Just put it in line with the 10ohm switch. Open means no mod. Closed means mod engaged. I can draw a little diagram if you'd like.
that would be cool. thanks!
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post #10 of 307 Old 10-14-2015, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
that would be cool. Thanks!
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I'll also come up with a schematic for the 893 eventually. It's not quite the same. But there's a 1.5ohm resistor that can be subbed out for a 1.8ohm resistor to give a little more snap in the treble if people want the classic 1099 sound (brighter).
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post #11 of 307 Old 10-14-2015, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Attachment 995089

I'll also come up with a schematic for the 893 eventually. It's not quite the same. But there's a 1.5ohm resistor that can be subbed out for a 1.8ohm resistor to give a little more snap in the treble if people want the classic 1099 sound (brighter).
I would be very interested in having that option
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post #12 of 307 Old 10-17-2015, 09:23 PM
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I got all the MDF cut and starting putting my boxes together already. These speakers are going to be the first thing done for my basement build lol. I have to have something to listen to in the mean time!
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post #13 of 307 Old 10-18-2015, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
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I got all the MDF cut and starting putting my boxes together already. These speakers are going to be the first thing done for my basement build lol. I have to have something to listen to in the mean time!
Same here. I couldn't stop listening to them along with 2 Marty cubes. Probably delayed my theater build a few months at least. Thankfully my build will be done next week and I can start enjoying my 1099's again.
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post #14 of 307 Old 10-18-2015, 09:48 PM
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I thought I would post a vid for all the people on the fence about the 1099's and how crazy efficient they are. Please don't hate me for recording with my 8 year old sony cam that does not do these justice but will give you an idea how powerful the 1099's really are. I have an iphone spl reader in the picture that does a reasonable job of measuring. But my cam mic starts to give out at over -15 as the video will prove, even though the iphone spl reader will still measure. The camera is mounted 15 feet away from the front speakers and iphone about the same. The music is just a uTube video, so nothing special. From -15 on up all the distortion is coming from my sony cam until I hit 100 dBs and then the cam gave out with a buffer overflow.


As a fair warning turn your volume down.


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post #15 of 307 Old 10-18-2015, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I tried to record the 1899's but my mic gave out too early and the video sounded rough like yours did towards the end. But hey, I was still able to get that single 1899 up to about 120db with my vintage receiver. I had my ear plugs in by that point.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
I tried to record the 1899's but my mic gave out too early and the video sounded rough like yours did towards the end. But hey, I was still able to get that single 1899 up to about 120db with my vintage receiver. I had my ear plugs in by that point.
Almost makes me wonder what those 1899s could do off a vintage Pioneer SX-1980. 270 watts per channel into 8 ohms.
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post #17 of 307 Old 10-20-2015, 01:58 PM
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what method is everyone using to get the wires from the sealed compartment into the ported? Im thinking of just using these binding posts so i dont have to worry about sealing up the holes.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...gold--091-1245
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post #18 of 307 Old 10-20-2015, 02:38 PM
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Erich, are you still shipping out 1099 kits? It's been a few weeks and I have not heard anything as of yet about my order. I sent you a pm and one at the DIY site last week and no response yet. I know your busy but I was just wondering. Thanks

Mario
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post #19 of 307 Old 10-20-2015, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
what method is everyone using to get the wires from the sealed compartment into the ported? Im thinking of just using these binding posts so i dont have to worry about sealing up the holes.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...gold--091-1245
If I understand your question right - just drill a hole larger than than your wires - then stuff in silicone to seal the compartment.
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post #20 of 307 Old 10-20-2015, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Erich, are you still shipping out 1099 kits? It's been a few weeks and I have not heard anything as of yet about my order. I sent you a pm and one at the DIY site last week and no response yet. I know your busy but I was just wondering. Thanks

Mario
Yes, I'm working my way through the preorders. There are lots of them, so it does take a little time. I should be done in about 1.5 weeks.

You asked about the bamboo boxes and I will send you a reply tonight. The guy that builds those got back from vacation on Monday and I talked to him today about getting some made up. It hasn't been as long as you think though. It's only been 2 weeks since I got the bamboo prototype enclosure and posted the picture.

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post #21 of 307 Old 10-20-2015, 03:41 PM
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If I understand your question right - just drill a hole larger than than your wires - then stuff in silicone to seal the compartment.
yeah thats what I thought. Thank You!

I was just wondering if maybe there was a different method
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post #22 of 307 Old 10-20-2015, 04:16 PM
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Yes, I'm working my way through the preorders. There are lots of them, so it does take a little time. I should be done in about 1.5 weeks.

You asked about the bamboo boxes and I will send you a reply tonight. The guy that builds those got back from vacation on Monday and I talked to him today about getting some made up. It hasn't been as long as you think though. It's only been 2 weeks since I got the bamboo prototype enclosure and posted the picture.
Thanks Erich, your right. It has only been a couple weeks I'm just being dramatic. Lol. Definitely let me know about the bamboo cabs, I'm still very interested.
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post #23 of 307 Old 10-23-2015, 12:44 PM
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does a double baffle add any benefit to these? I was going to do it just to have more material for the screws to grab but if it doesnt matter I may skip it.

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post #24 of 307 Old 10-23-2015, 02:27 PM
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I haven't found it to be necessary for this speaker. I did a double baffle on my 12" design, which uses a 14.5" wide baffle and I think that was worth it but I don't actually know. I've built a few 1099s without double baffles and haven't found them to resonate at all. You can always add a plywood ring or blocks to the screw hole locations. I've done that and many others have and it works well.
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post #25 of 307 Old 10-23-2015, 02:40 PM
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I just come on here to oogle and google at Tux's and Erich's knowledge. Keep up the great work.


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What is that piece called where the grounds terminate at? terminal strip? I don't think I got them with my kits. I'd like to pound out the crossovers this weekend, so I might just order some from parts express/amazon and see if I can have them shipped overnight of see if they are sold locally.

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post #27 of 307 Old 10-30-2015, 08:27 AM
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I don't think that's included in the kits, nor is a terminal strip necessary to build the XO. Some people like to use a PCB with terminal strips to simplify/tidy the wiring, otherwise they don't actually serve a fudamental design purpose. The kit should have everything you absolutely need. Secondary items like terminal cups, PCB, paint, etc. are left for the builder to choose. Hope that helps.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I don't think that's included in the kits, nor is a terminal strip necessary to build the XO. Some people like to use a PCB with terminal strips to simplify/tidy the wiring, otherwise they don't actually serve a fudamental design purpose. The kit should have everything you absolutely need. Secondary items like terminal cups, PCB, paint, etc. are left for the builder to choose. Hope that helps.
Ah yes, that helps. Good to know they are not required. I think I can get some at Lowes if I end up needing them.

Thanks!
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post #29 of 307 Old 11-01-2015, 03:05 PM
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So using the 10ohm just makes it a 1097 not a 1099? I guess I don't know why you would put in a switch for it?? Just a bit confused about this. Any other insight before I build my board?
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post #30 of 307 Old 11-01-2015, 03:08 PM
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It's still 99db. The 1096 is a single woofer 1099. The switch and resistor is an eq item that just shaved out some of the highs.
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