Matt...Thanks for the quick shipment of the three 1099 boards! They will add a professional touch to my 1099s-soon-to-be. You've done a terrific job on them. Anyone would be proud to incorporate these into their 1099 build.
I appreciate the photo included in your order confirmation PM. This isn't my first crossover build, but for anyone who is approaching crossover assembly for the first time, rest assured, you can't screw your project up if you go this route. (OK, anything's possible, but you'd have to try REALLY hard. And, BTW, soldering is way easy if that's holding you up.)
The packaging was Erich-Class as well.
No one really needs more pix of these, but they say if you don't show it you ain't done it...so here:
Now, that last picture of the Cherry RRA22H3FBRNN switch doesn't exactly belong in this post, but I came to a decision to order it while assembling the crossover. Why? Because of that optional 10-ohm resistor that Erich kindly included in the 1099 crossover parts kit. You stuff the board, and there it sits, a "leftover," suggesting, nagging, really, that you should do something with it. It's the CD shunt resistor that Matt offered as a way to gently drop the CD level a touch for anyone who found the overall tonal balance to be a bit bright. Some have said it is.
Since I haven't heard a 1099 (What? I spent WHAT? and haven't heard them? Thanks, Fatshaft et al), I can't have an opinion, but I do want the option. Perhaps the center will need all the electrons it can eat for extra clarity while the L/R could use the attenuation. Perhaps with the speakers in this location yes, over there on that wall, no. Perhaps I'm just in the mood for a change? Well, for $8.68 including shipping for three of these, I don't have to wonder. It's a simple SPST switch which will move the shunt resistor in and out of the CD circuit thereby siphoning off a bit of the current which would otherwise flow through the CD and out through the SEOS. I picked it for its easy to install round shape...~3/4" dia. bit should do it. It will go right beside the Speakon socket.
If you want to go this route, just run an extra wire from the unused second HI screw terminal to the resistor, then to the switch, and then back to the multipoint grounding block on the pcb.
I considered Dremeling an "island" in the HF pad and squeezing the resistor onto the board between the 0.5 mh inductor and the 25 uf cap, and then using one of the two HF green terminal block connection points to route to the switch. But, that seemed unnecessary. Just a dab of hot glue on the inside of the back panel of the enclosure right near the switch will be all that's necessary to hold the resistor in place.